This showed exactly where to put the seam, slowly and clearly. Other videos assume you know how to do this, and gloss over this important step. Well done.
Thanks for posting this video. This approach definitely gives more professional looking results than when using pre-insulated connectors. I'll be using this method from now on. Also, someone had asked what wire strippers you were using at 1:44. These look very similar to my Ideal brand Stripmaster strippers. I've had them for over 30 years and they still work great. Currently available from Lowes for $24.94.
Thank you so much for this brilliantly useful video. I have struggled for ages with the insulated crimps, finding they often pull out even though I have a ratchet crimp tool. There is nothing to hold the wires, whereas the uninsulated ones with the crimped in recess hold & don't pull out. Extraordinarily helpful to me.
This has been super helpful. I'm about to release a video on hardwiring dash cameras and this information has been super valuable. I'm going to link here. Great stuff.
You surprise me!!!! Thanks, a very detailed way to do it. You take care in a very important point! the position of the crimp slot when you crimp the connector, also the kind pliers, for me those are the ones to do the best job, avoiding a false contact.
I have a huge project ahead of me. American Autowire update kit for a 67 GTO. You can guess my level of experience if I'm needing basic info like this...Again thanks.
+Mark Clark - everybody has to start somewhere - I try to provide basic info in a watchable format - dig around my videos and you're bound to find more that's of interest to you - PS: Sweet! 67GTO is one of my all time faves
Great video, thanks. I have always used the crimp tool the opposite way with the male die against the seam. Now I am going to have to try your way. I like the use of dielectric grease, it should fill up any nooks and crannies in the joint reducing the opportunity for corrosion.
My strippers are antique and have no brand name showing. A quick google images search shows tons of options. Irwin/visegrip makes a set. Dielectric grease is silicone based and therefore non-conductive. The idea is to give corrosion protection to the exposed metals. When crimped there will be hard contact where the grease is squeezed out but still clings to the exposed areas preventing corrosion that can creep into the hard contact areas and interrupt continuity.
I'm not a big fan of crimping. I was hoping you had some fix for it.... But you gave me the idea of removing the insulation, then soldering, then putting the heat shrink over it... And this works great.... :-)
Good tips! I usually use a q-tip (okay, okay, i just my finger) to apply the Dielectric Grease after I've made the crimp, not before. Dielectric Grease is used to insulate and prevent corrosion. It's the insulation properties that wig me out but hey, if it works it works.
The terminals you need do exist, so if you're a perfectionist, keep looking, someone's going to have them. Otherwise try piggy-backing: crimp a wire connector (tube) on the wire end, then insert the connector into the terminal and crimp that. In a pinch, you have to get creative. Sometimes I'll just strip an extra long piece of insulation off the wire and fold it back on itself - doubling the wire mass - and use the larger size terminal on the doubled over wire. Crude but effective. Good luck!
I think that a proper crimp is better than a proper solder joint. A proper crimp deforms the copper strands to the point that the spaces between the strands closes eliminating air and moisture from the connection. A solder joint also eliminates air and moisture but it is a weaker joint mechanically and solder has more resistance than the direct metal to metal connection of a crimp. Also if you are good at soldering you should solder and if you are good at crimping you should crimp because both are good joints when done properly.
Agreed, except that soldering _alone_ should be avoided except where crimping is not an option. Also any wet, insulating grease should only be applied _after_ crimping and soldering! It's an interesting technique but an unnecessary addition of dielectric. However, _conductive_ grease like silver-bearing types would be okay, but also unnecessary. As a last concern, I would not use a torch where a heat gun could do the job. Other than these few criticisms, there are many good points in the video. The best method I have seen (used by Val den Hul Cables) and used is a very strong crimp (= cold weld) with solder applied to the _exposed_ end, i.e. the very end of the wire, to seal it. Finally, good shrink wrapping over the _rest_ of the assembly, as shown in the video, will seal the assembly beautifully. Semi-rigid, adhesive-lined heatshrink, (what appears to have been used) is ideal for marine environments. I often double the layers, with a shorter one on the inside for the best strain relief. This termination will conduct well for 100+ years in dry environments if the wire has good insulation and mechanical construction, and if the connector and terminal have rhodium and/or gold plating.
Thanks for sharing this video buddy, I watched alot of your videos and find them helpful for sure. Keep them coming, would like to see alot more. thanks alot from Ohio
I use the male side of crimpers into the split, then turn the connector 180 and use the non insulated crimp to give it a cold weld. I call it the tuck and fold
Very good instructional video, especially the close-up when you're placing the terminal seam-side up into the terminal pliers. What is the specific name or brand of the kind of wire strippers you're holding @ 1:44? I haven't been able to find them. I don't understand why your're dipping the copper into the dielectric grease -- wouldn't that interfere with the conductivity between the terminal and the stranded wire? Thanks
Good video but have a question. Dielectric grease is an insulator,not a conductor. It’s good to cover a finished terminal from corrosion but not use inside a connector,no?
You prolly dont give a shit but does any of you know of a method to log back into an instagram account? I was stupid forgot the account password. I appreciate any tips you can offer me
@Rowan Santiago I really appreciate your reply. I got to the site on google and im waiting for the hacking stuff atm. Takes a while so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
I thought that for stranded cable the seam on the lug is supposed to fold in forming the top of a "heart" shape. Using male end of the crimper on the back of the terminal prevents this from happening.
I have seen many crimped ends done by the manufacturers and I can attest that the male part of the crimp tool goes into the crack forming a heart shaped end over the connector and not from the bottom of the connector. Please correct me if I am wrong and thanks for the great video !!
Silicone tape (X-treme tape) works as shrink tubing after crimping is done. By the way, since dielectric grease is an insulator, i would think it would reduce the conductivity between the cable & terminal (not good). Seems like it should go on the outside of the connection..
Agreed DO NOT dip your wire in dielectric grease prior to crimping. if you are worried about corrosion crimp the connector tighten it down wherever you are applying it THEN cover in grease.
Justin Steer You guys are certainly entitled to your opinions, that's why I don't just delete contradictory comments. However (for the benefit of those viewers who aren't sure they know everything yet) I have made thousands of connections this way that still work today in spite of the severely corrosive environment found in steel vessels in salt water. I look forward to seeing your video on the subject.
While dialectic grease is an insulator, a properly crimped connection will squeeze the excess grease out of the terminal. For improperly crimped connection like shown in this video, excess grease can make things worse.
just got hired as an avionics electrician, fabricating wire bundles and holy shit does this weird as shit. I've never used a lug that crimps from behind the barrel, never seen dialectic grease used. Hell I've never seen a crimp tool that doesn't have a wire stop.
I would strip the ends at least twice as long as You did, feeding it through the terminal, and a bit more. This way there is less chance of end pulling out. BR
I know this vid is a little old and I apologize for the late question. I'm guessing your limited to 10 gauge on those strippers? Is there a way to shimmy and twist a larger gauge wire (4 gauge) to get the job done? Never seen a pair like that. Would be perfect if the weren't limited to 10....
+dustingaldeano the strippers shown are Speedex Mfg. USA and strip wire from 8ga to 18ga. Irwin Vise Grip makes one as do Klien tools ( astore.amazon.com/repairs101c0a-20/detail/B00BC39YFQ ) and other manufacturers.
the strippers shown are Speedex Mfg. USA and strip wire from 8ga to 18ga. Irwin Vise Grip makes one as do Klien tools ( astore.amazon.com/repairs101c0a-20/detail/B00BC39YFQ ) and other manufacturers.
Never knew about the 'male' crimping tool. I have moved to a ratchet style crimping tool a few years ago, only used the 'complete kit' tool before that. This ratchet style one haven't got any 'male' parts, just one side with flat bottomed semicircles and the other side with two ridges. Any tips on this tool - do the terminals go in both ways?
7eis I can't recall ever having seen anyone use a crimp tool like you describe. I Googled it and see what you mean but can't offer any tips any different from what's in the video. Perhaps another viewer will comment.
The bottom of the terminal goes on the smooth side, the seam (top side) goes on the side with the ridges. The ridges guide the two sides back down toward the bottom, so that they don't just slide over each other or fold in some weird way.
I've never done that (though sometimes I add solder to a crimped connection) but I imagine it would help corrosion protection. Maybe ask an electrician (I'm a mechanic). Good luck!
Mar Gudmundsson Exactly. I work as a marine engine mechanic which means one of the harshest, wettest, saltiest environments wiring can be asked to perform in. The grease prevents corrosion of exposed wire - corrosion that will ultimately creep under the terminal and disrupt the connection.
Here's a skill builder for anyone needing to do repairs or upgrades to their 6, 12, 24 or 32 volt electrical systems. th-cam.com/video/3LBZR_XiEnk/w-d-xo.html
I feel that the whole point of crimping is to reduce the amount of time spent. Having to heat-shrink adds another step. I might was well solder the connection. I'm not sure how I feel about making the indent on the back of the connector. Did you find that doing it that way makes it more reliable?
+ThingsDemystified - that's really a question for the mechanics who trained me and probably those who trained them. I was trained to do it this way. I'm assuming that the mechanics before me figured it out through trial and error. I don't know about you but I can't solder anywhere near as fast as I can crimp and wrap. Not to mention challenges of working outdoors in the weather.
Repairs101 It'd be interesting to do some tests on how much force it would take to pull the wire out of crimps done by certain crimpers. I'm also coming across several posts about not using dielectric grease inside the terminals. I think it's perfectly ok to do, but some people are adamant that is the wrong way to use it. I guess the only way to convince them is to show them that there is no increase in resistance when the grease is applied.
+ThingsDemystified - Excellent ideas I may have to include in a follow up video one day - thanks for commenting. BTW I can hang my 200lb self off any 10ga crimp I make and not break it .
Two negative comments: (i) the use of dielectric grease by definition will make a poor connection. (the clue is in the name!) (ii) the use of heat shrink over the bare conductors reduces the insulation integrity of the joint massively. Its much thinner than the insulation on the wire and can easily lead to short circuits. This is why the pre-insulated crimp terminals are better - especially with but joints. The insulation integrity is largely maintained.
Miguel Angel Mastercraft 120V-60hz 6/12.5a - 250 & 450 degrees celsius / 482 & 842 degrees fahrenheit. From Canadian Tire. I don't see a model number. Good luck!
Okay, for all you negative nancy's that insist on stating dielectric is not to be used in the demonstration here, how bout you do the same with one greased and one ungreased, then just do a resistance check. Really, for the distance it's going, gauge used and quality of crimp he's performing, it won't matter. I'd much rather have peace of mind that there's no way this terminal will corrode in my lifetime.
The resistance check using the ohm setting on the multimeter will give you an incorrect reading. use voltage drop. If you have a wire with 10 strands, 9 corroded/broken and 1 good strand, the wire will show 0 Ohms. Same with his crimp. Putting dielectric grease on the wire and inside the connector barrel is adding an insulating layer in between, the compression of the crimp dissipates most grease out but there is still a thin layer. The crimp is that 1 good strand. Will show 0 Ohm. Long story short. The crimp is great. dielectric grease is used improperly.
Auzryel Because he doesn't get that electrical current travels along the surface of metals and that with an accurate crimp the outer surface of the crimp connector becomes the largest conductor from point a to point b without any issues.
Whenever you place the wire strands in the barrel and crimp the connection the dielectric grease shifts out of the way as more pressure is placed on the two metals being pressed together.
I used to have a crimper that didn't just flatten the terminals. It poked into it to make a pretty secure crimp. Ideally they should give the world an alternative of having a winged connector for a true crimp and the ability to strain relief into the insulation. Nope, can't have that. Even those of us who want to do things properly are stuck with cheap Chinese improper crap. To me, these cheap terminals just scream amateur work.
+Chris M - OK I'll bite (U B trollin?) What exactly do you have running on 18V? I have been a mechanic many years and never encountered an 18V system - AND I'll add that these connections are superior regardless of voltage.
Dielectric grease it's a bad idea. Also you crimped it from wrong side. That's a heat shrink, not a burning torch flame shrink. You can heat it by torch but not burn it and melt it.
This showed exactly where to put the seam, slowly and clearly. Other videos assume you know how to do this, and gloss over this important step. Well done.
+Joseph Dunphy - Credit goes to the guy(s) who trained me and showed me what's important. Thanks for commenting!
Thanks for posting this video. This approach definitely gives more professional looking results than when using pre-insulated connectors. I'll be using this method from now on. Also, someone had asked what wire strippers you were using at 1:44. These look very similar to my Ideal brand Stripmaster strippers. I've had them for over 30 years and they still work great. Currently available from Lowes for $24.94.
Those crimping pliers you have rock. Better than those multi wire stripper/crimping/cutting tools. Thanks for posting!
Thank you so much for this brilliantly useful video. I have struggled for ages with the insulated crimps, finding they often pull out even though I have a ratchet crimp tool. There is nothing to hold the wires, whereas the uninsulated ones with the crimped in recess hold & don't pull out. Extraordinarily helpful to me.
+Springwood Cottage - Glad to be able to help. Thanks for commenting!
Putting the seam in the right place makes all the difference. Very clear and useful explanation. Many thanks.
+HealthInfo :)
This has been super helpful. I'm about to release a video on hardwiring dash cameras and this information has been super valuable. I'm going to link here. Great stuff.
You surprise me!!!! Thanks, a very detailed way to do it. You take care in a very important point! the position of the crimp slot when you crimp the connector, also the kind pliers, for me those are the ones to do the best job, avoiding a false contact.
Thank you too!
Very well done! The video was informative, straight and to the point. Great job and thanks.
I lovvveeee when videos are so straightforward 😩😩
#sarcasm?
I look forward to seeing your video on the subject.
Thanks. The impression in the back of the fitting. That's a nugget of info in your presentation not in several others I've seen.
+Mark Clark - Glad I could help. Mark. Thanks for commenting!
I have a huge project ahead of me. American Autowire update kit for a 67 GTO. You can guess my level of experience if I'm needing basic info like this...Again thanks.
+Mark Clark - everybody has to start somewhere - I try to provide basic info in a watchable format - dig around my videos and you're bound to find more that's of interest to you - PS: Sweet! 67GTO is one of my all time faves
Repairs101
Great video, thanks. I have always used the crimp tool the opposite way with the male die against the seam. Now I am going to have to try your way.
I like the use of dielectric grease, it should fill up any nooks and crannies in the joint reducing the opportunity for corrosion.
Thanks and yes it works great in marine environment
My strippers are antique and have no brand name showing. A quick google images search shows tons of options. Irwin/visegrip makes a set.
Dielectric grease is silicone based and therefore non-conductive. The idea is to give corrosion protection to the exposed metals. When crimped there will be hard contact where the grease is squeezed out but still clings to the exposed areas preventing corrosion that can creep into the hard contact areas and interrupt continuity.
I'm not a big fan of crimping. I was hoping you had some fix for it.... But you gave me the idea of removing the insulation, then soldering, then putting the heat shrink over it... And this works great.... :-)
This guy gotta come back lol I want a video every week :) this guy is cool as heck
Good tips! I usually use a q-tip (okay, okay, i just my finger) to apply the Dielectric Grease after I've made the crimp, not before. Dielectric Grease is used to insulate and prevent corrosion. It's the insulation properties that wig me out but hey, if it works it works.
:)
Thanks so much for taking the time to create this! It's so helpful!
@Dicofole - Dielectric grease is silicone based and therefore non-conductive. The idea is to give corrosion protection to the exposed metals.
Thanks for adding that info.
I have recently learned that mine are Speedex Wire Strippers from Speedex Mfg Co, Rockford Ill.USA
The terminals you need do exist, so if you're a perfectionist, keep looking, someone's going to have them. Otherwise try piggy-backing: crimp a wire connector (tube) on the wire end, then insert the connector into the terminal and crimp that. In a pinch, you have to get creative. Sometimes I'll just strip an extra long piece of insulation off the wire and fold it back on itself - doubling the wire mass - and use the larger size terminal on the doubled over wire. Crude but effective. Good luck!
Straight and to the point tutorial. Thank you.
Thank you for sharing I enjoyed watching your videos I am from South Africa
I think that a proper crimp is better than a proper solder joint. A proper crimp deforms the copper strands to the point that the spaces between the strands closes eliminating air and moisture from the connection. A solder joint also eliminates air and moisture but it is a weaker joint mechanically and solder has more resistance than the direct metal to metal connection of a crimp.
Also if you are good at soldering you should solder and if you are good at crimping you should crimp because both are good joints when done properly.
Thanks for commenting and for your insight!
Agreed, except that soldering _alone_ should be avoided except where crimping is not an option. Also any wet, insulating grease should only be applied _after_ crimping and soldering! It's an interesting technique but an unnecessary addition of dielectric. However, _conductive_ grease like silver-bearing types would be okay, but also unnecessary. As a last concern, I would not use a torch where a heat gun could do the job. Other than these few criticisms, there are many good points in the video.
The best method I have seen (used by Val den Hul Cables) and used is a very strong crimp (= cold weld) with solder applied to the _exposed_ end, i.e. the very end of the wire, to seal it. Finally, good shrink wrapping over the _rest_ of the assembly, as shown in the video, will seal the assembly beautifully. Semi-rigid, adhesive-lined heatshrink, (what appears to have been used) is ideal for marine environments. I often double the layers, with a shorter one on the inside for the best strain relief. This termination will conduct well for 100+ years in dry environments if the wire has good insulation and mechanical construction, and if the connector and terminal have rhodium and/or gold plating.
Terry Pullen good insight, both crimping or soldering has very applicable application advantages and disadvantages.
Thanks, this covered some tips on what I was looking for.
Ok
Another awesome tutorial. Thank You!
Thanks for sharing this video buddy, I watched alot of your videos and find them helpful for sure. Keep them coming, would like to see alot more. thanks alot from Ohio
I use the male side of crimpers into the split, then turn the connector 180 and use the non insulated crimp to give it a cold weld. I call it the tuck and fold
Very good instructional video, especially the close-up when you're placing the terminal seam-side up into the terminal pliers. What is the specific name or brand of the kind of wire strippers you're holding @ 1:44? I haven't been able to find them. I don't understand why your're dipping the copper into the dielectric grease -- wouldn't that interfere with the conductivity between the terminal and the stranded wire? Thanks
First time in your channel , first time watch one of your videos .
I like it and i subscribed in your channel .
thanks for the good tip .
toolman talal Thanks for watching and thanks for the sub!
Extremely informative. Great work
:)
this video rocks, exactly what i was looking for. thank youuuu ( :
Rock on, Hunter!
Thank you very much! I enjoyed watching you in mythbusters btw ;).
Good video but have a question.
Dielectric grease is an insulator,not a conductor.
It’s good to cover a finished terminal from corrosion
but not use inside a connector,no?
Thanks for posting this...just what I needed although I have them inferior tools I think I can make it work. Thanks again!
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I thought that for stranded cable the seam on the lug is supposed to fold in forming the top of a "heart" shape. Using male end of the crimper on the back of the terminal prevents this from happening.
One Two That what I have seen In many instructional videos
Yup.
I have seen many crimped ends done by the manufacturers and I can attest that the male part of the crimp tool goes into the crack forming a heart shaped end over the connector and not from the bottom of the connector. Please correct me if I am wrong and thanks for the great video !!
Ma Serry More than one road leads to Rome. There's even an airport.
Touche my friend !
Yes +1 to that.
Nice. You can transform everything into art
Excellent instructions and shooting!
You can also shrink using a cheap cigarette lighter if you need to, I try and keep the flame off of the material though.
True but I always burn myself on the wheel the second time I try to light it.
Silicone tape (X-treme tape) works as shrink tubing after crimping is done.
By the way, since dielectric grease is an insulator, i would think it would reduce the conductivity between the cable & terminal (not good). Seems like it should go on the outside of the connection..
Agreed DO NOT dip your wire in dielectric grease prior to crimping. if you are worried about corrosion crimp the connector tighten it down wherever you are applying it THEN cover in grease.
Justin Steer You guys are certainly entitled to your opinions, that's why I don't just delete contradictory comments. However (for the benefit of those viewers who aren't sure they know everything yet) I have made thousands of connections this way that still work today in spite of the severely corrosive environment found in steel vessels in salt water. I look forward to seeing your video on the subject.
While dialectic grease is an insulator, a properly crimped connection will squeeze the excess grease out of the terminal. For improperly crimped connection like shown in this video, excess grease can make things worse.
No-Ox-id A special is the actual product to use...
+Repairs101 I agree it eliminates space for corrosive materials to be introduced to the connection.
Skill builder from Repairs101 - th-cam.com/video/3LBZR_XiEnk/w-d-xo.html
proper job need more men like this
:)
just got hired as an avionics electrician, fabricating wire bundles and holy shit does this weird as shit. I've never used a lug that crimps from behind the barrel, never seen dialectic grease used. Hell I've never seen a crimp tool that doesn't have a wire stop.
+eXpLiiiSiT - welcome to heavy duty marine mechanics.
well done, very clear and succinct
:)
I would strip the ends at least twice as long as You did, feeding it through the terminal, and a bit more. This way there is less chance of end pulling out.
BR
awesome vid mate
Yeah, I would have at least a little bit coming out the other side also just to verify there is enough wire stripped inside the barrel.
Excellent mentoring. Thank You.
HELLO my friend!
I have very long time to see you.
Your new video is very nice.Keep up the good work.
Have a nice weekend!
:-)
I know this vid is a little old and I apologize for the late question. I'm guessing your limited to 10 gauge on those strippers? Is there a way to shimmy and twist a larger gauge wire (4 gauge) to get the job done? Never seen a pair like that. Would be perfect if the weren't limited to 10....
+dustingaldeano the strippers shown are Speedex Mfg. USA and strip wire from 8ga to 18ga. Irwin Vise Grip makes one as do Klien tools ( astore.amazon.com/repairs101c0a-20/detail/B00BC39YFQ ) and other manufacturers.
I got a question,where can you get those good connectors like KAR products used to have? Walmart type connectors are pretty junky.
dan meme I get them (here in Vancouver) at automotive supply stores like Lordco, NAPA and North Shore Auto Parts. Good luck!
Repairs101
Thanks,I'll check napa.
those strippers look like a pair of little dinosaurs XD good video
+Fernando Beltran - Stripsaurus Rex?
Repairs101 XD
No blather? Thank you!
what is the name brand of those wire strippers that you are using? I can't find any that look exactly like those. Thanks
the strippers shown are Speedex Mfg. USA and strip wire from 8ga to 18ga. Irwin Vise Grip makes one as do Klien tools ( astore.amazon.com/repairs101c0a-20/detail/B00BC39YFQ ) and other manufacturers.
Nice demo.
Never knew about the 'male' crimping tool. I have moved to a ratchet style crimping tool a few years ago, only used the 'complete kit' tool before that. This ratchet style one haven't got any 'male' parts, just one side with flat bottomed semicircles and the other side with two ridges. Any tips on this tool - do the terminals go in both ways?
7eis I can't recall ever having seen anyone use a crimp tool like you describe. I Googled it and see what you mean but can't offer any tips any different from what's in the video. Perhaps another viewer will comment.
Repairs101 7eis is referring to the open barrel connector (F-Crimp) crimpers like this one: www.bandc.biz/ProductImages/RCT4_detail.jpg
Thanks CoreyLee!
The bottom of the terminal goes on the smooth side, the seam (top side) goes on the side with the ridges. The ridges guide the two sides back down toward the bottom, so that they don't just slide over each other or fold in some weird way.
Great detail. Just what I was looking for.
Would it make a difference if I tint the end of the strip wire with solder first then crimp the tint wire?
I've never done that (though sometimes I add solder to a crimped connection) but I imagine it would help corrosion protection. Maybe ask an electrician (I'm a mechanic). Good luck!
is the Dielectric Grease there only to keep moister out ?
Mar Gudmundsson Exactly. I work as a marine engine mechanic which means one of the harshest, wettest, saltiest environments wiring can be asked to perform in. The grease prevents corrosion of exposed wire - corrosion that will ultimately creep under the terminal and disrupt the connection.
Here's a skill builder for anyone needing to do repairs or upgrades to their 6, 12, 24 or 32 volt electrical systems. th-cam.com/video/3LBZR_XiEnk/w-d-xo.html
Great video!!
Thx!
I see now. The video is denouncing the same cheap connectors I hate, and using a nice crimp tool that pokes into the connector.
Good job man!
what maximum voltage and current this connector can used???
Is there anything wrong with using a cigarette lighter and letting the flame come in contact with the shrink tube?
The lighter gets hot. Makes it hard to hold. Might catch fire. Might blacken it a bit. You gotta do what you gotta do.
I feel that the whole point of crimping is to reduce the amount of time spent. Having to heat-shrink adds another step. I might was well solder the connection. I'm not sure how I feel about making the indent on the back of the connector. Did you find that doing it that way makes it more reliable?
+ThingsDemystified - that's really a question for the mechanics who trained me and probably those who trained them. I was trained to do it this way. I'm assuming that the mechanics before me figured it out through trial and error. I don't know about you but I can't solder anywhere near as fast as I can crimp and wrap. Not to mention challenges of working outdoors in the weather.
Repairs101
It'd be interesting to do some tests on how much force it would take to pull the wire out of crimps done by certain crimpers. I'm also coming across several posts about not using dielectric grease inside the terminals. I think it's perfectly ok to do, but some people are adamant that is the wrong way to use it. I guess the only way to convince them is to show them that there is no increase in resistance when the grease is applied.
+ThingsDemystified - Excellent ideas I may have to include in a follow up video one day - thanks for commenting. BTW I can hang my 200lb self off any 10ga crimp I make and not break it .
What is the purpose of the grease?
Two negative comments: (i) the use of dielectric grease by definition will make a poor connection. (the clue is in the name!) (ii) the use of heat shrink over the bare conductors reduces the insulation integrity of the joint massively. Its much thinner than the insulation on the wire and can easily lead to short circuits. This is why the pre-insulated crimp terminals are better - especially with but joints. The insulation integrity is largely maintained.
Great tips thanks again!
what is the heat gun youre using? please share model...
Miguel Angel Mastercraft 120V-60hz 6/12.5a - 250 & 450 degrees celsius / 482 & 842 degrees fahrenheit. From Canadian Tire. I don't see a model number. Good luck!
I prefer to use the uninsulated terminals
Great video!
Thanks! :)
Good instructions, horrible job on the shrink tubing though...
Have you ever played on mythbusters???
Him : Adam Savage
Me : Steve, civilized.
I got them cheap at Princess Auto.
So the male part *doesn't* go into the crack?
A wiseguy,eh? (ALA Moe Howard)
Just remember this is a family show.
Okay, for all you negative nancy's that insist on stating dielectric is not to be used in the demonstration here, how bout you do the same with one greased and one ungreased, then just do a resistance check. Really, for the distance it's going, gauge used and quality of crimp he's performing, it won't matter. I'd much rather have peace of mind that there's no way this terminal will corrode in my lifetime.
This guy gets it.
(Thanks for sticking up for me, brother!)
The resistance check using the ohm setting on the multimeter will give you an incorrect reading. use voltage drop.
If you have a wire with 10 strands, 9 corroded/broken and 1 good strand, the wire will show 0 Ohms.
Same with his crimp. Putting dielectric grease on the wire and inside the connector barrel is adding an insulating layer in between, the compression of the crimp dissipates most grease out but there is still a thin layer. The crimp is that 1 good strand. Will show 0 Ohm.
Long story short.
The crimp is great. dielectric grease is used improperly.
Then how come I get good readings and lovely arc at the plug when doing just so?
Auzryel
Because he doesn't get that electrical current travels along the surface of metals and that with an accurate crimp the outer surface of the crimp connector becomes the largest conductor from point a to point b without any issues.
Whenever you place the wire strands in the barrel and crimp the connection the dielectric grease shifts out of the way as more pressure is placed on the two metals being pressed together.
great video ...... cheers .
:)
I prefer insulated terminals but I use the non-insulated die on my crimpers.
Why use grease ?
Weather-proof - njaaa, u burned the end of the connection while using the flames on the heat shrinking and making it not weather-proof doing so
your're the man!
great, great video.
thanks for the info
+Andel K - Rock on!
The only thing,a heat gun works much better but might not be as convenient in certain circumstances.
dan meme Exactly. My work takes me out on construction sites, roadways, marinas and wharves where electric power is not always readily available.
dielectric grease... nice tip :)
terrible tip; it's an insulator in your conductor sandwich, and reduces ampacity
I used to have a crimper that didn't just flatten the terminals. It poked into it to make a pretty secure crimp. Ideally they should give the world an alternative of having a winged connector for a true crimp and the ability to strain relief into the insulation. Nope, can't have that. Even those of us who want to do things properly are stuck with cheap Chinese improper crap. To me, these cheap terminals just scream amateur work.
Thank you.
Rock on!
Thanks
:)
Man Adam Savage is much easier to tolerate in this video.
Found that this doesn't work for 18 volts systems :(
+Chris M - OK I'll bite (U B trollin?) What exactly do you have running on 18V? I have been a mechanic many years and never encountered an 18V system - AND I'll add that these connections are superior regardless of voltage.
+Repairs101 Just goofing around. :) Thanks for the great video!
Dielectric grease it's a bad idea. Also you crimped it from wrong side. That's a heat shrink, not a burning torch flame shrink. You can heat it by torch but not burn it and melt it.
If smokes, it's burn.