If you're ever at a MAG rally in the near future I shall shake your hand " obviously wearing nitrile gloves lol " and buy you a well deserved beer , thanks you have helped and saved me money on numerous occasions with your informative and technically specific videos, top bloke ...Genius when it comes to bikes ...and Pen for the great camera work , cheers guys . Legends of the tube . 👏👏👏
Most welcome indeed sir, im glad the videos have been able to help. Ill take you up on that too, we get out and about over the summer and MAG events are always a good day out..!
Alright. Del. Got yourself some nice kit there now, fella, a lovely place to work and play. The Black Bomb is looking mean, and with age, am considering a cruiser myself, maybe an old Indian, but enough of my daydreams for now..... It's great how you show every stage clearly, some people will really appreciate that, it'll give them confidence to tackle things for the first time, I like watching people's techniques, even a small tip is well received by me, even after 40 years of playing with bikes, watching the stages some define as 'boring' or 'unnecessary' can still yield something. Example: Not everyone knows/thinks to place spacers/washers back on the bolt in their correct order, little things like that will save a novice hassle. I've seen experienced people mess up by not doing little things like that which may appear to be obvious to some, isn't obvious to others. I noticed your 'someone' criticising you not too long back for showing what they deemed 'unnecessary' , but hey, the human condition is a very strange thing, and that one runs deep, man. Displacement and projection.... haha. Where thought goes, energy flows, so enough of that! I'm off for round 2 now. Nice one, bud.
Thanks buddy, i agree, if you're following a video to coy and do it for your own bike then you need the stages one by one so you don;t miss anything critical.. Have a great weekend ad keep safe. D&Px
You could do as i did. Get one of those big plastics (the biggest you can find) to cover the furniture when painting the ceilings, and make a kind of tent around the bike or the part you are working on. You´ll have to wear a good mask (like you did) to prevent from breathing toxics but it prevents the dust from going everywhere. I just used fishing poles, ties and bricks to seal the contraption and it worked fairly well . Your end result was perfect! Ps: i was doing it on my own garage, with my car parked on the side.....
Cheers buddy, plastic sheets work well as they have a static quality that actually attracts the paint dust, so effectively sucks it out of the air... good call!
Sure thing mate, it's like a tough plastic pan scourer, takes paint off but doesn't hurt the metal any more than leaving a few lines in the surface, fast and easy!
Iv used that paint a few time on my engine parts and forks with good results after seeing delboy using it. Your videos are great and very helpful as iv got some great tips from you . Keep it up 👍
lavoro fantastico , dove posso comprare questa vernice in italia, hai un link di Ebay , il colore è giusto per la dyna fat bob (stessa tonalita)? Grazie tanti.
My 2008 H-D Dyna Low Rider clear coat on the front of the forks is gone replaced with chips and crud. I have been waiting for this one! If it comes out as half as good as your work, I will be happy. Beautiful job as always! Thanks so much.
I did this same process on a triple tree this winter. It had similar corrosion. Took some time, but looks much better now. Sometimes these small jobs are very satisfying.
Inspiring as always. The finish is remarkable and takes skilled hands to achieve. Great to see that it can be done without fork removal. Thanks for sharing team D&P. 🇸🇪🇬🇧👌🏻😊
Thank you very much Paul, I would just maybe argue not exactly skilled hands, just practiced! Anybody can do this, you just need a few attempts at it, and you'll get it right!... take care and have a good week, D&Px
Excellent work, thank you. I'm in the middle of re-doing my 2007's Dyna forks. I went the full strip route because I wanted to replace the factory suspension. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and expertise, as always!
I think the hardest thing for the DIY painter to resist is going for that shiny complete look on the first coat. It’s so tempting! Hope that oxidation doesn’t return. Once it starts it can be a bear to fight off. My 2 year old vehicle with new hinges and doors will attest to this.
Yeah, it's a constant battle for sure, but if brand new metal as it came from the factory can go like this, then it's pointless thinking you can ever cure it permanently, this was caused by the badly designed dress covers, and ill be removing them to stop that cause again, but corrosion will always happen when i bike gets ridden in the weather right?... have a great weekend sir, and keep safe.. D&Pxx
Great information. I always like seeing how you treat everything so gently. Much better than my 'use a hammer and if it doesn't work find a bigger one' approach 😂
Awesome results on the forks brother ! I've used that paint stripper wheel in the past and it has worked great ! 👍 way better than regular pain stripper brother , unless you get one with heavy duty chemicals on it . Great job brother keep up the great work !!!!! stay safe guys cheers from new york 🍺🍺🍷🍷
I've used 'strypit' which seems to work pretty well. It's cheap-ish, thin enough to be volatile, and thick enough to stay in position. Nitromors 'crafstman' seems to be the most powerful, but it's too thin, so can cause dribble issues. Strypit isn't that good on multiple coatings of paint, as I discovered on my gsxr wheels,, needs working in, and reapplication. Used it because it was here. Definitely recommend the nitromors. Paint on forks is very thin, and comes off a treat. Use 00 (fine) wire wool. As del touched upon, it has to be washed off properly, or will bubble the new paint. Might look into one of those grinder discs, seems pretty cool, i'm interested to see how they perform.
Yeah, absolutly, i have trashed so many paint jobs due to chemical paint stripper residue i will never use it again, not when these paint removal fleece discs do the job so easily, and apart maybe from the dust, they are kinder to the environment that harsh corrosive chemicals that stay in the removed paint mess and end up in land fill... plus, seriously, its way cheaper, these fleece discs are about £4 each, and last ages.. way less than the chemicals ! Take crae guys and have a great weekend.
Thanks Peter, still in touch with Ron Bass (the singer), he's an awesome guy who's been through some tragically difficult times with his health, so these songs are gold and to be preserved, check out their page in the link below the video, and give them some love, awesome band.
That paint stripping wheel worked a treat! I've lead a sheltered life; don't think I've ever seen such heavy fork lowers corrosion like that, wow. I am the world's worst painter, so I continue to look on with awe at how your application of the evil stuff is always so darned good, lol. Smashing episode as usual.
Really glad I found this video. I've stripped my RF900 right down and the fork lowers are in rag order so will be following your method 👍 *Typical that the Simoniz paint is not available in silver !
I noticed that myself, but you could try their Silver Engine Enamel, it'd have pretty much the same properties of being resilient and durable, perhaps spray up a test piece first and see if you like the colour?!
simonz paint should have sponsored you by now hahaha. I love that stuff. For peace of mind I would of wanted the seals changed after seeing that much corrosion built up in there.
Amazing results Del ! That's a paint job you could fall into. Many thanks Del and Penny for the hard work you put into these videos. Stay safe and well. 🙂👍👍
So far so good. Looks like new. One day you will enjoy salt-free winters ;-) Good to hear Feast of Friends again. Cheerio from Günter, Nürnberg/Germany
I think the only chance of salt free winters now is if global warming doubles it's pace, or we move to Portugal..! what a treat it would be ot ride in the warm sunshine !
@@Moonfleet41 Sorry to say the pace is accelerating. Not many people change their habits. Portugal is a fabulous country, indeed. Want to ride the TET there some winter day. And like a turn or two at Portimao.
Every time Pete, Aerosol cans are given a bad press purely by the name "Rattle can", it's a perfectly good delivery system if you know how to do it right.. blaming them for a bad paint finish is like a chef blaming cheap saucepans for turning out crap food !!!!
Yup, that looks great....and I wouldn't have thought it appropriate to leave them on the bike. I like this!! Must be about time for a Spring ride-out in the beautiful countryside! Cheers D & P!
Thanks Allen, yeah, easy enough and why not make life simple ! You're right too, it's way past time for a ride, weather here is settling down to spring normal now, mild and damp but some sunny days so best think about getting out for a blast.! Take care and keep safe over there.. D&Pxx
Thanks Mike, combination of the cold wet British climate, salt on the roads and those badly designed fork dress covers that hold the crap and don;t let it out.. ill be removing them when i rebuild it all in the next video..
Not sure if you have already, or if this video covers it, but could you do a video on corrosion removal from frames? I've got my wire wool and my tin of rustoleum ready to tackle the odd bits of rust popping up, but watching your videos on something before i do it fills me full of confidence.
You can consider this video the same as a frame, clean the metal till it's shiny bright, keyed to at least 400 grit, and either use a primer-free stone chip paint like this, or if you're using a regular paint then use an acid etch primer first! Good luck with it!
@@Moonfleet41 i'm sure i'll learn everything when i get time to watch this. Love your channel though, recently replaced my rear wheel bearings thanks to your videos.
Why didn't you use etch primer first Del ? Aluminium does not like just being overcoated it NEEDS an etch to make the top coats stick and be harder wearing. 🤔🤔🤔 I learned this the hard way years ago back when first got into doing bikes up because the aluminium WILL eventually try and shed the paint. Etch primers acid base 'keys' the surface better to allow subsequent coats to bond better. 👍
Check at 9:57 , held that can up and pointed at the "No Primer Required" because i always get this same objection... ive been using this product for ten years since i first stumbled across is for painting a side stand... and that side stand is still good, no chips or flaking a decade on.. so it works mate 🤔🤔🤔!
@@Moonfleet41 mmm. . . Must have some sort of etch in it already because any metal non ferrous doesn't like a covering. Ally or galv plated. But if you've found it works then I ain't arguing I'm just old school and still don't trust these new fandangled paint systems. 😅😅👍
@@granite676 Sure thing mate, it doesn't make sense in excepted logic to me either, but two things stand out, one is that it works like 'Hammerite' which has been around WW2, and the factory paint had primer under it and it still failed, so tbh mate, I don't think this will last forever on aluminium as, quite rightly like you said, nothing does, not even chrome or powder coat... but for £6 a can and a few hours of my time, I can do it every couple of years if I need to, thanks for your input buddy.
Going by personal experience I reckon this is the way forward - Powder coating isn't infallible, it can still be chipped by road grit just like paint (though admittedly not quite so easily) then you get moisture ingress again and the corrosion process continues, only this time it's harder to fix the problem because powder coating is a real b*stard to get off, the only practical way is to have it professionally redone at further cost and lost riding time..
Brilliant job Del!,I wish I knew about the paint removal disc before I spent a couple of days doing my softail forks,polished them up nice but could’ve saved a lot of time,thanks for theses videos I’m learning daily!🏍🏍
A cracking job. I was a bit sceptical at first, as I've done something similar and struggled to get all the old paint off and it ends up looking decidedly average. But those wheels work well and the end result looks top notch. I did think I spotted a deliberate mistake though during the cleaning stage, which isn't like you.
Great video as always! Do you use the same angle grinder for everything? Like cutting fenders, grinding paint, etc. Or a better question might be, what would you suggest to do all of that?
Nice video Del & Penny. Excellent result mate, they looks sweet. On this side of the pond it's lots and lots of bloody stone chips. Penny and you have a good week, stay safe. Cheers
Riding any bike in the weather only ends one way mate, and we all know what this is! Just as case of staying on top of it aye?! Enjoy your week and hope you're looking forward to the holiday weekend, D&Px
A brass drift and a brass hammer are a mechanics friend. For that particular job, a wooden dowel would likely have worked but you need those tools in you box anyway. Paint job came out very nice. Is that a typical place for corrosion though? Never saw that before.
Hey buddy, a wood dowel wouldn't have worked in this case as you do need to tap quite hard and the cut end you're tapping is quite sharp, so imagine it would split a wood dowel immediately, but the brass works fine, I guess you could even use aluminium... this corrosion was caused by the covers themselves, they harbour the salt crud and promote the corrosion, all covered in the next video online tomorrow!
@@Moonfleet41 I couldn't really tell on the video they looked like they popped right off but I'll take your word for it. It is amazing how fast salt can turn aluminum into powdered sugar and crystals. Your paint job turned out good as new.
Outstanding job.. and very well explained, i was just about to take my forks off, strip them and send them for powder coating. Will give this go first. Don't suppose you can share what paint you used? I have rust spots on the mud guards too. Do you think the same paint would be ok or get a proper black paint with a clear coat? Class videos mate.
You can use it pon the mudguards too, it will give a gloss finish that's ok, but maybe not as perfect as a base coat and clear... up to you mate, both options open to you.
but if you have corrosion eat the surface like that then it normally goes much deeper making it weaker? painting over it does not address the integrity issues.
Well done. I just love the comprehensive masking job you did on everything. No overspray. No paint dust. Just nice neat work. That’s a lesson for budding D.I.Y people right there.
That disc got the forks looking great! Brushed and shiny. If I wanted to keep that brushed look for my forks, could I paint a 2k clear coat over the forks?
Awesome job as always Del remembering to use the wifes toothbrush otherwise its a bit gritty afterwards aye. Seriously all the very best to you both x PS good news I sold my little car yesterday and picking up a rather nice FJ 1200 tomorrow morning looking forward to lots of new adventures!
Looking good Del, I will watch the second part later as I need to do this on one of my bikes. Between the coats you mention the drying time and 'flash off' what does flash off mean?
I just means to allow the paint a small amount of time to start curing and thicken up a bit before the next coat, but no long enough for it to dry...each coat needs to be wet so they bond together, but not so wet it get's heavy and runs.!
@@Moonfleet41 great, thanks. I haven't heard it called that before and thought I was missing something out. It's what I have done in the past but didn't know there was a term for the process. Great channel and uploads as always Del, thanks to you and Penny for all you do on here 👍
Not with a gloss finish mate, this stuff dries soft and remains flexible, lacquer dries hard and chips so the two wouldn't be compatible... this is all you need, just lay it up thick as you can without runs!
Check the video at 9:57, it's a self etching stone chip paint that works without primer! And of course, I think pretty much most people can work out once I had them clean and prepped, you could indeed have run a buffer over them and polish them up, but hardly on an all black bike!
No buddy, i'd imagine that would scuff up the plastic pretty badly...plastic panels aren't much tougher than the paint over them..! i only use them on metal..!
Great work. Click a thumbs up if you have bought a can of Simoniz Tough Paint because of Del? It's great stuff and I'm sure they owe you a sponsorship!
Wouldn't that be nice, ive lost count of how many dozens of cans of this ive bought over ten years.. but you can deny it, it's just the best for cycle parts..!
@@Moonfleet41 You are too modest my friend. As a life long engineer and a perfectionist, I have seen all sorts of `engineers`, so my judgement stands 👍
This is my favorite channel. No ego or attitude, just really great processes, good information and clear communication. Well Done!
Thank you so much for your kind words, it's much appreciated, have a great weekend!
The careful ways you work really shows you take care of your customers bikes, I subscribed.
Thanks mate, you're very kind. and welcome aboard !
If you're ever at a MAG rally in the near future I shall shake your hand " obviously wearing nitrile gloves lol " and buy you a well deserved beer , thanks you have helped and saved me money on numerous occasions with your informative and technically specific videos, top bloke ...Genius when it comes to bikes ...and Pen for the great camera work , cheers guys . Legends of the tube . 👏👏👏
Most welcome indeed sir, im glad the videos have been able to help. Ill take you up on that too, we get out and about over the summer and MAG events are always a good day out..!
Alright. Del. Got yourself some nice kit there now, fella, a lovely place to work and play. The Black Bomb is looking mean, and with age, am considering a cruiser myself, maybe an old Indian, but enough of my daydreams for now..... It's great how you show every stage clearly, some people will really appreciate that, it'll give them confidence to tackle things for the first time, I like watching people's techniques, even a small tip is well received by me, even after 40 years of playing with bikes, watching the stages some define as 'boring' or 'unnecessary' can still yield something. Example: Not everyone knows/thinks to place spacers/washers back on the bolt in their correct order, little things like that will save a novice hassle. I've seen experienced people mess up by not doing little things like that which may appear to be obvious to some, isn't obvious to others. I noticed your 'someone' criticising you not too long back for showing what they deemed 'unnecessary' , but hey, the human condition is a very strange thing, and that one runs deep, man. Displacement and projection.... haha. Where thought goes, energy flows, so enough of that! I'm off for round 2 now. Nice one, bud.
Thanks buddy, i agree, if you're following a video to coy and do it for your own bike then you need the stages one by one so you don;t miss anything critical.. Have a great weekend ad keep safe. D&Px
You could do as i did. Get one of those big plastics (the biggest you can find) to cover the furniture when painting the ceilings, and make a kind of tent around the bike or the part you are working on. You´ll have to wear a good mask (like you did) to prevent from breathing toxics but it prevents the dust from going everywhere. I just used fishing poles, ties and bricks to seal the contraption and it worked fairly well . Your end result was perfect! Ps: i was doing it on my own garage, with my car parked on the side.....
Cheers buddy, plastic sheets work well as they have a static quality that actually attracts the paint dust, so effectively sucks it out of the air... good call!
That is a beautiful job. I never had painted forks. That whizzy wheel did a great job cleaning it off.
Sure thing mate, it's like a tough plastic pan scourer, takes paint off but doesn't hurt the metal any more than leaving a few lines in the surface, fast and easy!
nice to see someone cared about the next person to work on the bike by putting copperslip on the bolts ; 95% preparation nice job
Full history of all maintenance was by Harley master techs at the dealer, so not surprising i guess !
Iv used that paint a few time on my engine parts and forks with good results after seeing delboy using it. Your videos are great and very helpful as iv got some great tips from you . Keep it up 👍
What brand is It?
@@franciscogomezleo9535 simoniz tough paint.
lavoro fantastico , dove posso comprare questa vernice in italia, hai un link di Ebay , il colore è giusto per la dyna fat bob (stessa tonalita)?
Grazie tanti.
My 2008 H-D Dyna Low Rider clear coat on the front of the forks is gone replaced with chips and crud. I have been waiting for this one! If it comes out as half as good as your work, I will be happy. Beautiful job as always! Thanks so much.
Good luck with it Bill, simple process and a great result is assured as long as you take yer time. Thanks for watching sir..!
I did this same process on a triple tree this winter. It had similar corrosion. Took some time, but looks much better now. Sometimes these small jobs are very satisfying.
They are indeed, simple and effective, and make an instant improvement. !
Inspiring as always. The finish is remarkable and takes skilled hands to achieve. Great to see that it can be done without fork removal. Thanks for sharing team D&P. 🇸🇪🇬🇧👌🏻😊
Thank you very much Paul, I would just maybe argue not exactly skilled hands, just practiced! Anybody can do this, you just need a few attempts at it, and you'll get it right!... take care and have a good week, D&Px
Excellent work, thank you. I'm in the middle of re-doing my 2007's Dyna forks. I went the full strip route because I wanted to replace the factory suspension. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and expertise, as always!
Thank for watching mate, good luck with yours.
Nr
Going to tackle me street bob legs soon …. This is a real help …👍
Awesome tips del those forks look brand new 👍
Thanks mate, that's very kind.
Every time i pick up one of Del's videos, i hit like straight the way without thinking, because i know there going to be 'fecking ' marvellous.
Beautiful Del! Stunning revamp.
Many thanks Shaun, we always appreciate your kind words mate.
I think the hardest thing for the DIY painter to resist is going for that shiny complete look on the first coat. It’s so tempting! Hope that oxidation doesn’t return. Once it starts it can be a bear to fight off. My 2 year old vehicle with new hinges and doors will attest to this.
Yeah, it's a constant battle for sure, but if brand new metal as it came from the factory can go like this, then it's pointless thinking you can ever cure it permanently, this was caused by the badly designed dress covers, and ill be removing them to stop that cause again, but corrosion will always happen when i bike gets ridden in the weather right?... have a great weekend sir, and keep safe.. D&Pxx
That's a clean tidy job bruv. Thorough as usual. Stay safe and well peeps.
Thanks ray, will do!
Said it before, you do some of the best editing on youtube and you are the BEST rattle can cat around. !!!
Thanks buddy👍 you're very kind.
Will get a brass rod, thanks for the tip and video.
Good idea buddy, you will use it some day!
Great information. I always like seeing how you treat everything so gently. Much better than my 'use a hammer and if it doesn't work find a bigger one' approach 😂
Thanks buddy, I do have hammers, I just use them quietly lol
Awesome results on the forks brother ! I've used that paint stripper wheel in the past and it has worked great ! 👍 way better than regular pain stripper brother , unless you get one with heavy duty chemicals on it . Great job brother keep up the great work !!!!! stay safe guys cheers from new york 🍺🍺🍷🍷
I've used 'strypit' which seems to work pretty well. It's cheap-ish, thin enough to be volatile, and thick enough to stay in position. Nitromors 'crafstman' seems to be the most powerful, but it's too thin, so can cause dribble issues. Strypit isn't that good on multiple coatings of paint, as I discovered on my gsxr wheels,, needs working in, and reapplication. Used it because it was here. Definitely recommend the nitromors. Paint on forks is very thin, and comes off a treat. Use 00 (fine) wire wool. As del touched upon, it has to be washed off properly, or will bubble the new paint. Might look into one of those grinder discs, seems pretty cool, i'm interested to see how they perform.
Yeah, absolutly, i have trashed so many paint jobs due to chemical paint stripper residue i will never use it again, not when these paint removal fleece discs do the job so easily, and apart maybe from the dust, they are kinder to the environment that harsh corrosive chemicals that stay in the removed paint mess and end up in land fill... plus, seriously, its way cheaper, these fleece discs are about £4 each, and last ages.. way less than the chemicals ! Take crae guys and have a great weekend.
Fantastic stage 1. And amazing new workshop. I rememeber your small garage. Awesome to see.
Thank you. Glad you enjoyed it!
good job Del good to hear Feast of friends not played them for long time BANGING TUNE
Thanks Peter, still in touch with Ron Bass (the singer), he's an awesome guy who's been through some tragically difficult times with his health, so these songs are gold and to be preserved, check out their page in the link below the video, and give them some love, awesome band.
That paint stripping wheel worked a treat! I've lead a sheltered life; don't think I've ever seen such heavy fork lowers corrosion like that, wow. I am the world's worst painter, so I continue to look on with awe at how your application of the evil stuff is always so darned good, lol. Smashing episode as usual.
Ha ha, it's only practice mate, have a few attempts at it and you immediately start to improve and make a better job of it.
If it goes badly... strip it and do it again.
Really glad I found this video. I've stripped my RF900 right down and the fork lowers are in rag order so will be following your method 👍
*Typical that the Simoniz paint is not available in silver !
I noticed that myself, but you could try their Silver Engine Enamel, it'd have pretty much the same properties of being resilient and durable, perhaps spray up a test piece first and see if you like the colour?!
simonz paint should have sponsored you by now hahaha. I love that stuff. For peace of mind I would of wanted the seals changed after seeing that much corrosion built up in there.
Amazing results Del ! That's a paint job you could fall into. Many thanks Del and Penny for the hard work you put into these videos. Stay safe and well. 🙂👍👍
Thanks Rick, that's very kind, next video it'll be dry and glossy and ready to rebuild.. Have a great weekend buddy, and keep safe too !
Great job Del
So far so good. Looks like new. One day you will enjoy salt-free winters ;-)
Good to hear Feast of Friends again.
Cheerio from Günter, Nürnberg/Germany
I think the only chance of salt free winters now is if global warming doubles it's pace, or we move to Portugal..! what a treat it would be ot ride in the warm sunshine !
@@Moonfleet41 Sorry to say the pace is accelerating. Not many people change their habits. Portugal is a fabulous country, indeed. Want to ride the TET there some winter day. And like a turn or two at Portimao.
Wow that was a beautiful job. Just goes to show if you get the prep right, rattle cans can give a pro finish..
Every time Pete, Aerosol cans are given a bad press purely by the name "Rattle can", it's a perfectly good delivery system if you know how to do it right.. blaming them for a bad paint finish is like a chef blaming cheap saucepans for turning out crap food !!!!
I love this channel, Greeting from Spain!!
Thank you sir. Glad you enjoy it!
Yup, that looks great....and I wouldn't have thought it appropriate to leave them on the bike. I like this!! Must be about time for a Spring ride-out in the beautiful countryside! Cheers D & P!
Thanks Allen, yeah, easy enough and why not make life simple ! You're right too, it's way past time for a ride, weather here is settling down to spring normal now, mild and damp but some sunny days so best think about getting out for a blast.! Take care and keep safe over there.. D&Pxx
Great work as usual and credit to the camera operator, always does a good job 👍
Thanks mate, glad you enjoyed it.!
Nice cheap fix with pro results 👍. Can’t say I ever seen forks with that much corrosion. Any how take care.
Thanks Mike, combination of the cold wet British climate, salt on the roads and those badly designed fork dress covers that hold the crap and don;t let it out.. ill be removing them when i rebuild it all in the next video..
Not sure if you have already, or if this video covers it, but could you do a video on corrosion removal from frames? I've got my wire wool and my tin of rustoleum ready to tackle the odd bits of rust popping up, but watching your videos on something before i do it fills me full of confidence.
You can consider this video the same as a frame, clean the metal till it's shiny bright, keyed to at least 400 grit, and either use a primer-free stone chip paint like this, or if you're using a regular paint then use an acid etch primer first! Good luck with it!
@@Moonfleet41 i'm sure i'll learn everything when i get time to watch this. Love your channel though, recently replaced my rear wheel bearings thanks to your videos.
Why didn't you use etch primer first Del ? Aluminium does not like just being overcoated it NEEDS an etch to make the top coats stick and be harder wearing. 🤔🤔🤔 I learned this the hard way years ago back when first got into doing bikes up because the aluminium WILL eventually try and shed the paint. Etch primers acid base 'keys' the surface better to allow subsequent coats to bond better. 👍
Check at 9:57 , held that can up and pointed at the "No Primer Required" because i always get this same objection... ive been using this product for ten years since i first stumbled across is for painting a side stand... and that side stand is still good, no chips or flaking a decade on.. so it works mate 🤔🤔🤔!
@@Moonfleet41 mmm. . . Must have some sort of etch in it already because any metal non ferrous doesn't like a covering. Ally or galv plated. But if you've found it works then I ain't arguing I'm just old school and still don't trust these new fandangled paint systems. 😅😅👍
@@granite676 Sure thing mate, it doesn't make sense in excepted logic to me either, but two things stand out, one is that it works like 'Hammerite' which has been around WW2, and the factory paint had primer under it and it still failed, so tbh mate, I don't think this will last forever on aluminium as, quite rightly like you said, nothing does, not even chrome or powder coat... but for £6 a can and a few hours of my time, I can do it every couple of years if I need to, thanks for your input buddy.
Simple repair!! Kwel ! Difficult find paint in my area.. kept looking!! Thanks Del!!
You are a perfectionist. I meant this in respectful way. I have learn so much
Thank you Mark, i like to take a pride in things. I appreciate that!
That's why he does a good job.
Who would've thought that watching paint dry could be so satisfying. 😎🤙🏽
Watching this and thinking back to the first video of your's I watched - how to plug a puncture.
A long way from that garage way back then 👍
Thanks Shane, really appreciate the long term support. Have a good weekend mate.
Tidy work Del.
Going by personal experience I reckon this is the way forward - Powder coating isn't infallible, it can still be chipped by road grit just like paint (though admittedly not quite so easily) then you get moisture ingress again and the corrosion process continues, only this time it's harder to fix the problem because powder coating is a real b*stard to get off, the only practical way is to have it professionally redone at further cost and lost riding time..
Brilliant job Del!,I wish I knew about the paint removal disc before I spent a couple of days doing my softail forks,polished them up nice but could’ve saved a lot of time,thanks for theses videos I’m learning daily!🏍🏍
Glad to help buddy, you can use the paint fleece trick next time aye..
Good old tough paint. Might have used it myself a few times. Great video Del as always mate. Hope you are well 😁
Thanks Dan👍, does the job and no dramas aye.. good to hear from you, hope you're looking forward to the weekend mate.
Nice job, well done.
Hermoso trabajo, felicitaciones, desde CHILE
Well, that’ll do matey. Great finish.👍🏻
Thank you brother, have a great weekend and keep safe both of you, D&Px
A cracking job. I was a bit sceptical at first, as I've done something similar and struggled to get all the old paint off and it ends up looking decidedly average. But those wheels work well and the end result looks top notch. I did think I spotted a deliberate mistake though during the cleaning stage, which isn't like you.
You must get all the old coating off first or it will always look average... totally bare metal and start over, works best mate. !
Nice job, I did my fatbob forks the same way only I mirror polished the forks..
Nice job Del.
Hava gr8 Easter.
All the best.👍🙂
Thanks, you too mate, hope you find time to relax and chill!
Nice to see you still coming out with content, Del! Quality as always.
Thanks mate. Much appreciated!
Great video as always! Do you use the same angle grinder for everything? Like cutting fenders, grinding paint, etc. Or a better question might be, what would you suggest to do all of that?
I would be well pleased with that Del, great job
Thanks mate, next video, it dries like brand new, best £6 you could spend aye.!
Keep doing what you do man, you’re awesome!
I appreciate that!
Love the work and love the soundtrack to this video especially. 👍
Thanks you David. Glad you enjoy it!
Nice video Del & Penny. Excellent result mate, they looks sweet. On this side of the pond it's lots and lots of bloody stone chips. Penny and you have a good week, stay safe. Cheers
Riding any bike in the weather only ends one way mate, and we all know what this is! Just as case of staying on top of it aye?! Enjoy your week and hope you're looking forward to the holiday weekend, D&Px
A brass drift and a brass hammer are a mechanics friend. For that particular job, a wooden dowel would likely have worked but you need those tools in you box anyway. Paint job came out very nice. Is that a typical place for corrosion though? Never saw that before.
Hey buddy, a wood dowel wouldn't have worked in this case as you do need to tap quite hard and the cut end you're tapping is quite sharp, so imagine it would split a wood dowel immediately, but the brass works fine, I guess you could even use aluminium... this corrosion was caused by the covers themselves, they harbour the salt crud and promote the corrosion, all covered in the next video online tomorrow!
@@Moonfleet41 I couldn't really tell on the video they looked like they popped right off but I'll take your word for it. It is amazing how fast salt can turn aluminum into powdered sugar and crystals. Your paint job turned out good as new.
Nice job - thanks as always for sharing guys x
Our pleasure Mike, always good to hear from you!
Outstanding job.. and very well explained, i was just about to take my forks off, strip them and send them for powder coating. Will give this go first. Don't suppose you can share what paint you used? I have rust spots on the mud guards too. Do you think the same paint would be ok or get a proper black paint with a clear coat? Class videos mate.
I found the paint thanks, Simons Black Gloss Tough Paint :)
You can use it pon the mudguards too, it will give a gloss finish that's ok, but maybe not as perfect as a base coat and clear... up to you mate, both options open to you.
Great job Del and Penny, and great result. Very nice to hear Feast of Friends again. I look forward to the next video.
Thank you buddy. Glad you enjoyed it !
I took mine off, stripped them and got them powder coated. Well happy. Powder coating was 65 quid. Not for everyone though.
but if you have corrosion eat the surface like that then it normally goes much deeper making it weaker? painting over it does not address the integrity issues.
Great work
U made it easy and comfy : i loved it, thank you very much for sharing 🙏🌹🌹🌹🌹🌹🌹🌹
Thank You!
Such a simple and effective way to do it Del! Poetry in motion!
Thanks so much mate, Glad you enjoyed it!
Great video Del. It appeared the left fork leg had more corrosion. Great inexpensive fix.
Inexpensive indeed, £6 for the paint !
Gloves off for this one 😁 Great tip ! Thank you !!
hi Del, I have a triumph truxton 900 and your advice, parts links, and videos are priceless to me. Thank you and greetings from Norway
Thank you so much for your kind feedback Branko, we're really glad the videos can help you.
As you said Del relatively cheap fix, just time and a perfect result 👍
Absolutely mate.. cheap and easy to fix.
Whoop whoop another great vid to watch
Nice work, again! Cheers!
Thank you! Cheers!
Well done.
I just love the comprehensive masking job you did on everything.
No overspray. No paint dust. Just nice neat work.
That’s a lesson for budding D.I.Y people right there.
Thank you very much, glad you enjoyed it!
That disc got the forks looking great! Brushed and shiny. If I wanted to keep that brushed look for my forks, could I paint a 2k clear coat over the forks?
Yes, i guess you could, the brushed finish will act as a key for the clear coat which would then hold up better then clear over polished forks..
@@Moonfleet41 awesome. Thanks for the reply and the great videos!
Hi Del & Penny, nice work very nice work Del.
Glad you enjoyed it Graham!
Nice job mate! Might have to get you round to do my centre stand(s)!!!
Easy peasy buddy, why not drop them off and bring them down to the shop... bring cake and I reckon we've got a deal!
Awesome job as always Del remembering to use the wifes toothbrush otherwise its a bit gritty afterwards aye.
Seriously all the very best to you both x
PS good news I sold my little car yesterday and picking up a rather nice FJ 1200 tomorrow morning looking forward to lots of new adventures!
Wow, congratulations mate, that's fantastic news, back on two wheels! Have fun with it and ride safe of course, D&Px
Looking good Del, I will watch the second part later as I need to do this on one of my bikes. Between the coats you mention the drying time and 'flash off' what does flash off mean?
I just means to allow the paint a small amount of time to start curing and thicken up a bit before the next coat, but no long enough for it to dry...each coat needs to be wet so they bond together, but not so wet it get's heavy and runs.!
@@Moonfleet41 great, thanks. I haven't heard it called that before and thought I was missing something out. It's what I have done in the past but didn't know there was a term for the process. Great channel and uploads as always Del, thanks to you and Penny for all you do on here 👍
Do you still share the space with Penny? How does she cope with the dust, fumes etc when she has to work?
Apparently the truck bed paint from Halfords is really good but I don't think it's gloss finish.
Is it worth putting lacquer on top?
Not with a gloss finish mate, this stuff dries soft and remains flexible, lacquer dries hard and chips so the two wouldn't be compatible... this is all you need, just lay it up thick as you can without runs!
It's a rewarding process .
Peace and love brother 👍🏻☮❤
nice fix and not one drip!
Good job 👍
Thanks mate👍
Why no self etching primer? And maybe you could have mentioned the clean up is the same for clear coated ones, then polish and seal to look brand new.
Check the video at 9:57, it's a self etching stone chip paint that works without primer! And of course, I think pretty much most people can work out once I had them clean and prepped, you could indeed have run a buffer over them and polish them up, but hardly on an all black bike!
Fair play looks good
Delboy really nice videos lately! You are still a master at rattle can paint I see. 👍
Thanks Jeremy, really appreciate your support .
Hi Del, would you advise using that paint removal fleece on plastic parts to remove the paint?
No buddy, i'd imagine that would scuff up the plastic pretty badly...plastic panels aren't much tougher than the paint over them..! i only use them on metal..!
@@Moonfleet41 Cool thanks mate 👍
Great solution and superb outcome, Del! Hope you both are doing well and staying safe there. 🏍👍🏍
Thanks Gary, we're getting on well here, really appreciate you asking... have a great weekend there and enjoy the Easter Eggs! Keep safe, D&Px
@@Moonfleet41 thank you and you both as well! 😎
Interested to know as to why they corrode? Is it the UK weather or the salt they put on the roads?
Great video. Etching primer not needed?
Nope mate.. check at 9:59
Did i just see a Western Australian license plate in the background?! hahaha
Can I ask what year model is that bike please?
Nice job, what was the paint again?
Thanks mate, 9:57 !
Great info from your wealth of knowledge, what was that tune at the end of the vid?
Great work. Click a thumbs up if you have bought a can of Simoniz Tough Paint because of Del? It's great stuff and I'm sure they owe you a sponsorship!
Wouldn't that be nice, ive lost count of how many dozens of cans of this ive bought over ten years.. but you can deny it, it's just the best for cycle parts..!
Surprised with the bare metal you didn’t etch prime before paint.
09:57 !
Ive seen 1 coat paint before too
Nice!
Quality, thorough job Del, as always. You`re a metal magician as well as a first rate engineer.
You're too kind mate, just a humble mechanic passing it forward!
@@Moonfleet41 You are too modest my friend. As a life long engineer and a perfectionist, I have seen all sorts of `engineers`, so my judgement stands 👍
@@davericketts9101 I do appreciate your kind words Dave, that's very kind.
No self-etching primer?
9:57