I am sure that you have already heard this, but I love how perfectly organized your method is, your shop is precise. and you handle tools like a surgeon.
End result of the forks, to me, might as well be powder coat- they turned out awesome. So glad you picked the "dress cap delete" option, lol. Maybe they work in say, Florida or Arizona or somewhere where owners only ever ride on sunny days, but for the rest of the poor sods who actually go out in poor weather, all they do is collect nasty stuff! Great call.
Sure thing buddy, I'm sure if I took a look inside the dress caps it would have had printed 'not applicable for UK use'! Have a great weekend fella and thanks for your support.
After you mentioned the cover to me I began thinking and came up with the same conclusion as you. The forks look great without those covers. I would most likely have done the same thing (cutting them off) and saved a ton of work. Great job Del and Penny.
Thanks Mike, simple solution, i guess you get the same salt problems on the roads in winter where you live ! and that makes these covers a liability right?.. those who live in the sunshine states don't know the half if it brother..lol!
Very interesting . . . and very good point. When looking at the new Street Bobs at a HD dealership a few years back, I didn't like the gators on the forks and asked about removing them. I had peeked under them and seen that the lower and upper fork joints were sealed the exact same way as on yours - a dark grey plastic-looking insert around the tube at the joint. I was told that removing the gators would be at my own risk and could affect the warranty against any premature damage incurred by the forks due to moisture, dirt, etc., getting inside the forks and causing corrosion. Looks like the gators (dress caps in your case) may actually themselves cause such damage. And, ironically, a couple of year later HD came out with the Softail Standard (essentially a stripped down Street Bob) and it had no gators - only those plastic-looking seals at the joints. Purely in terms of aesthetics I much prefer the dress caps to those plastic seals (and the gators, certainly) and in fact inquired if I could get some put on in lieu of the gators. I never did end up getting a Street Bob . . . got my beautiful 1200 Low instead . . . with all that brilliant chrome ! : )
Yes indeed mate, that sounds like classic dealer's covering their back, warn you of the risks of removing them, then remove them themselves in the next model! Congratulations on your bike, hope you're enjoying it and have fun in the new season!
No need to justify cutting them off . Dismantling the front end would only achieve the same result . When you said you were going to get rid , I immediately thought Tin Snips or Side cutters ! Labour for the sake of labour is futile . Peace and love brother and PP. Have a lovely Easter . 👍🏻☮❤😉
Sure thing brother, but you know how it is, two pinch bolts whilst the forks are already stripped like they are, slip the fork out, slip it back in, pinch it up and drop those silly covers in the bin, probably wouldn't have taken any longer than snipping them off, just feels like the wrong way to do it! But it would have trashed the vinyl wrap... Have a great weekend both of you, and keep safe! D&Px
Sometimes the obvious isn't so obvious if you're not looking for it Designers are in a protected environment and some have possibly never ridden a bike
That’s funny you’ve come to this conclusion because when I was watching the first video I was thinking ‘why have the leg tops corroded so badly’ and I concluded that water/muck must be getting in through the gap at the top of the trim cap and then sits inside doing its darstardly work. I then thought ‘if that was mine, I’d cut those caps off with my tin snips’. Low and behold, that’s what it was and that’s what you did’. High five!
Hey Del, mate, your level of attention to detail is off the dial. You're methodical, precise and a pleasure to watch and learn from. Keep it up 👍 cheers, all the way from New Zealand
Yes I'll get myself some tough black for my rat survival bike better than rattle cans any day. Nice one Del. I was going to get the FJ 12 but at the last minute decided not to as fuel is still far to expensive so got myself a rather nice Suzy GS 500 but no ordinary GS oh no one that has had a professional make over done on it, single seat conversion with fiberglass seat pan/side panels/tail piece all integrated as one unit and a professionally fabricated and a smashing 2 pac paint job with a American army bike theme, a scrambler come road bike. Seeing is believing Del it wont replace the bandit that was stolen but it sure comes close!
Hi Marc, wow that sounds awesome buddy, it sounds by your description like a bike I've seen on the internet... but don't keep us in 'suspenders', let's have photos! Drop us an image or two to our email buddy, we'd love to see it! Email: delboysgarage@yahoo.com Have a great Easter weekend and enjoy Risen Day, ride safe, god bless, D&Px
Had to do pretty much the same thing on my KZ1000, got into it be4 it got too nasty. Mine was clearcoated aluminum so some quick polishing and a few coats of clear too care of it. The KZ did not have the metal caps like the HD, just rubber dust shields and the corrosion had crept under there too but cleaned up with little drama. 42 yrs. old and 30K miles still with the original seals,,,,,
Nice, you did the right thing removing those shrouds/covers, they're unnecessary, and as you say, a problem really. The Black Bomb looks great, this summer's going to be like 1976 hopefully, and what does that mean? .... Bike time! Sounds nice, have you changed the carb/re-jetted it since doing the barrels, or are you happy how it is?
You COULD have drained the forks; then removed the top fork caps and springs. Then removed the fork lowers and pulled those black sleeves off- leaving the stanchions in place. But you’re quite correct: that was the easiest and best and quickest way to get rid of them. Another job done well.
I even prefer the look without the fancy dressing over the seal. I may or may not ever own a Harley but that girl sounded pretty nice pulling out of your shop.
Hey brother, thank you for those kind words, I guess the reason it looks familiar without them is that all other bikes, other than Harleys, don't have them! This is the normal set up now... and I think you hit a point there, that even for people who actually don't like Harleys, they still love the sound, it's definitely their forte! Have a great Easter weekend, D&Px
Exactly, the rubber dust seals work by themselves on all other bikes, conventional or USD forks, all these did was harbour the crud.. and scratch the paint when fitting to allow the salt to do it's work..! daft idea aye.!
Stripped and repainted a 2015, 883 a few years back for a mate. I fully agree that caps/covers just result in paint issues as he's an all weather rider the issue returned after about a year & half. Great tips as always Noted for the future. 👌👌
Made whole lotta sense!! Never seen caps on them… I would be used without them. Never seen corrosion on forks. Hope I never have to face that. Thank you for sharing.
Obvs too late now, but I wonder if in future you could find some sort of gasket that would fit the dress cap dimensions? The better solution would be if from a design pov they used a grub screw. Both so you could easily lift them, but also so you could have a looser fit which would help them get naturally rinsed a bit when you wash the bike.
Another great vid, thoroughly enjoyed it. Couldn’t understand why you didn’t feel cutting off the seal covers was the best way to go! If you had fully removed the forks you would still just be discarding them, time and labour saving! Looking forward to the next vid now.
Hi Geoff, I just re-read your message a few times, and I think I get what you're trying to say, is not to feel guilty about cutting them off cos I'd have thrown them away anyway... but in real terms what I meant in the video was, that I hate 'butchering' something to get it off, when two pinch bolts and slip the fork out would have meant I didn't have to, I just don't like butchering anything! I was just forced to do it to preserve the vinyl wrap...
@@TheJameswort Hi James, I re-read Geoff's message again and I think I get what he's trying to say... so I've completely re-written my reply, thanks for your input buddy, this proves that the written word is always harder to get a point across than saying it verbally aye, cheers again, Del
Great job on those forks Del. Those fork legs look bang on right.100% agree bout the useless dress caps..more trouble than they're worth. That crap builds up over time if you ride in usual British weather. I'd be well chuffed with the job you've done if it were my bike. Love n best wishes to you n your good lady.
Well done for figuring out the erosion problem, just cos they're engineers doesn't mean they're perfect, a rubber gasket on the top of that flange would possibly fix that problem
Good explanation how the salt and grime collected under the dress caps and lead to corrosion. Wishing both of you a Happy Easter Günter from Nürnberg/Germany
Great video bloke, those forks turned out sweet, amazing isn`t it that Harley build expensive motorcycles with high degrees of engineering yet seem to get the most basic engineering designs wrong, why they didn`t include some kind of internal dust seal or large O ring into the top of that dust shroud i don`t know, something like that would have waterproofed it and the actual fork seals would be there as a secondary back up, daft really when you think about it, have a great weekend fella, love to Lady P, take care.
You're dead right buddy, imagine if they'd deleted the traditional dust seal (which is what I've left in place), and made that dress cap in to the dust seal with an inner top rubber lip and make the whole thing a nice screw on affair so it's easy to lift up, rather than hammering it, like you say... good engineering badly executed... but all fixed now! Have a great Easter weekend there, ride safe, D&Px
Great video brother ! it will definitely help out with corrosion, Im glad you are able to troubleshoot and correct the problem 👍 and brother , that bike at the end sounds Awesome 👏 😎🏍 what a nice sound it has !!! stay safe guys cheers from new york 🍺🍺🍺🍺
Hey brother, thank you so much for watching till the end! You're right, it has one awesome voice! It's wonderful to hear from you as always, enjoy your Easter weekend and keep safe both of you! D&Px
Great video Del & Penny. Excellent job mate and nice bit of info to help others not get the same problem with corrosion. Penny and you have a Great Easter and hope the weather is good so you can get out on the bikes. Just got back from a nice 200km ride, weather was a nice 28c , take care. Cheers
Hi mate, thanks so much fir your kind words, im pretty happy now that the corrosion won't come back, just a bad design i guess. Weather is finally settled and warm now, 18c and sunny, getting out for a ride this weekend for sure, time for a little R&R.. Take care and keep safe, and have a happy Easter ..D&Pxx
Those covers were such a design flaw from day one - not even any weep holes to allow water out and occasional flushing with GT85 etc. FWIW, l would use silicone grease rather than RRG as it causes zero stiction. Subbed 👍🏻
I've been carefully buying me bits and bobs to do my Honda NC750X now, you say Scotchbrite mop in part 1... wtf is that? You sand paper at 400 grit but the scotchbrite mop im seeing when i google it is is brown and like just wire wool lol, is it the blue flap discs with the sandpaper? They say there 1000 grit so im just rather confused and I really dont want to get this wrong and ive been pausing and staring for nearly 2 days lol HELP ME DEL!!! 😂 Thanks again though buddy! Ive got sooo into fixing cars/bikes that ive just finished a level 2 motor vehicle technician course! Inspired a love i never knew i had at 33 years old 🙂
Hi mate, sorry for the confusion... they are indeed a flap disc made from little squares of Scotch Pad, they come in 3 grades, coarse, medium and fine, and here's a link to them mate.... www.weldequip.com/polishing-flap-discs-115mm.htm
Couldn't make this up, But I just swapped my 2016 gsxs1000 abs for a 2003 softail deluxe and its got those chrome caps on and its exactly the same as this bike was. Im glad I have a step by step guide now tho
Congratulations Marcus, sounds like a real change of style for you, slowing the pace down a bit and a little more comfort I guess! Good luck sorting out your forks, and if yours have done the same as this bike was, then I'm sure you'll be leaving the dress caps off!! Ride safe.
@@Moonfleet41 I had a 02 anniversary dyna lowrider before the suzuki but I missed the harley to much. Those dress caps I will take off an ebay them or find a rubber seal for them maybe, so how,
Lovely result and a very common sense approach to preventing the issue for the future. Always enjoyable Del Happy Easter to the both of you Ride safe and keep well. Nick Australia
Hey mate, great to hear from you, as you can see from this series, what our wonderful weather does to our bikes here in Blighty, oh how we long for some red sand and dust and no salt! Have a fantastic Easter weekend... don't let your Easter Eggs melt ;-) All the very best, D&Px
I see you torquing up copper slipped bolts. What is your view of the consideration that with copper slip on the bolts that one could possibly ‘over torque’ the bolts because the copper slip allows extra movement within the thread and that the bolt is not ‘stopping’ at the same point that it would had it not got any ‘lube’ on it?
Hi Steve.. Rather cleverly, the Harley manuals give a "dual torque value", not a single torque setting. so for instance, a 5/16th bolt could be listed as 25 to 35 ft lbs... So if you're fitting the bolt bone dry, into a dry thread, you could max it out.. but if it's a 'wet thread' then go with the lower end of the range..!
Not really sure when it started but your last year of videos are really professional. The presentation, recording and editing are first class . Im really enjoying them Del and Penny please keep em coming
Thank you so much Aaron, we really appreciate those kind and generous words. We strive constantly to keep improving the filming and post production, but at the same time stay with our core intention to pass on a few tips, tricks and techniques that anyone can do at home and same some money. Thank you again and have a peaceful Eater Sunday.. D&Pxx
Since watching your channel years ago I've noticed that you are very skilled at what you do and what penny does too keep up the good insightful work del, PS you should open up your own shop
Awesome job as always, Del! Thank you! By the way, how do I get the ABS indicator to switch off. I needed to remove my back tyre a while back, it was before I discovered your channel, so maybe it's coz I didn't torque the brake module back into place?
Hi there.. as long as you have now torqued it back correctly, then drop the bike in to your local Harley dealer and they can deal with the light for you. shouldn't take them a few minutes.
What stoopid idea from Harley ! Lets put something on that will hold all the moisture and road crud around the top of the leg 😲🥴🤔 looks MILES better without em. Just keep them chromed stanchions well waxed polished too it really helps keep micro scratches smooth for no damage to oil seals too. NICE looking Harley that too 👌 none of that shiny shit bling ! 👍
Great, if you have your own garage/workshop, bike lift or other means to keep it nice and steady when front wheel goes out and obviously you need tools. Yes, £10 but if I asked you to do it for me would that be cheaper then powder coating? Still, for every job like that some undercover and safe space is required. So, as I have skills and most of the tools, for this kind of jobs on my bike I have to ask someone to do it :( By the way, fantastic paint and repair job, as always.
My gf had a storage locker for a few years near our condo 10x25, I asked if i can have 5 feet right to left 10 feet front to back, So now I have my mini garage with big red floor lift given to me by a bigger, home made wooden floor lift that cost $10.00 to build ( three top n bottom mechanics tool box filled neatly) I saw made on TH-cam / I do most of my work and some things like engine or transmission tire change I'll leave for my biker mechanic garage / u do as you can Rich
do you know any reason why my electrical will just drop out. I have a tested Antigravity ATX-12-HD ReStart 480CA Lithium Ion Battery, way more then necc for my 1200 nightster. The past two days, the bike take a while to turn over and it will just turn off if I immediately ride off. I have to let it sit for a while otherwise it'll just turn of like a loose ground. I've checked the ground to the battery, its fine. the rectifier is good. I don't know what's happening.
Hi Dave, I have a genuine H-D lithium battery on this Dyna, and it needs a dedicated lithium charger, I presume you're suing one of those? ... otherwise, take a multi meter and carry out some checks to make sure you have no loose grounds on either end of the earth strap and check the earth strap between engine and frame.
Not a bad piece of advice there John, lithium batteries are good when they're healthy and fresh, but the minute they're a tiny bit less than 100%, they need replacing... and they're expensive! Lead acid or glass mat, such as Motobatt Black (for Harleys), are ever reliable!
I think my local gas station watered it down,.. Only started when I filled up two days ago. I check grounds, voltage drop on positive and ground side, strator and rectifier, batteries good. Might check the circuit breaker next.
my curious is, would those plastic caps not help keep the rubber seals in place? No chance for those rubbers to slide up the fork as they go in/out over bumps? My lack of understanding is the reason im asking. Not questioning. If it works as you say without my worry, i think youve clearly solved the corosion issue.
Hi Jamie, good to hear from you again... and perhaps you noticed in the video that those fork dust caps don't just push down in to the fork, they have to be tapped down with a mallet, they're very tight and definitely stay put... it's exactly the same arrangement on every other motorcycle, and all these dress caps do is harbour the road dirt!
@@Moonfleet41 On a side note, do HD still use Imperial fasteners ? Here is an amusing story. Here in deepest rural SW France, my neighbour, a retired engineer wanted to service his ride on mower. The motor was Briggs & (scrap em) Stratton. his metric sockets did no fit. He talked to me as I was a maintenance engineer in a local factory. So I lent him my AF Draper socket set I still have from the 70's when I had Greeves bikes. He was so pleased I had to go next door to sink a litre of Pernod with him.
@@russcattell955i Hi again Russ, yes pretty much most of a Harley is still imperial, or as Americans call them 'standard', there are the odd metric fasteners here and there, strange things like the brake caliper mounting bolts are a 12-sided 10mm, like a spline bolt... but generally still imperial standard to this day....
Odd bit of short-sighted engineering, those caps. On an otherwise brilliant bike. Rubber gaiters might have been better, but they look so tacky on some forks. Hope you both have a relaxing and enjoyable Easter weekend. Cheers!
You're right Guy, the touring bike forks have the best solution with the steel shroud, but they'd look a bit heavy on a Dyna i guess.. Ejoy our weekend too mate. D&Px
The forks look great. That is some nice paint! I saw that it was Simonize branded paint, but I am curious to know if it is an acrylic, alkyd enamel or some kind of polyurethane?
Hi there, we've had this question many times from people in the U.S. as I don't think it's available there... from my understanding, it's an acrylic durable stone chip paint and I believe there's some equivalents in the Rustoleum, not sure which, but you'll find something close to this from that company!
Thanks Gary. Glad you enjoyed it sir, simple and effective fix and it shouldn't come back in a hurry now the dress covers are gone.. have a great week and tale care. D&Px
Very nice! I see what you mean now about the tin caps being the problem. If you have any similar advice for dealing with corrosion on a Sportster Triple Tree I’d love to hear it. Had mine replaced twice by HD and the paint is still peeling off.
Sure thing buddy, I feel your pain, as the paint on the trees on this bike is already blistering up, it's a job I'll save for another day as there's no short cut for that one, it's a full on front end strip, so that'll be a video to come... and to answer your question, the remedy is to get rid of the factory paint! Sadly, and not wishing to be derogatory, the paint used on the triple trees and fork sliders on Harleys isn't very good, and it's inevitable you'll lose it in the end, so if you can do it yourself, drop them out and re-paint as I've done here like I've done with the forks... if that's not within your skill set, then perhaps have someone take them out and get a paint shop to re-paint them, or have them powder coated, and as an aftermarket finish, that'll last far longer than the factory stuff... plus of course mate, stay on top of our cleaning so they don't get dirty and chipped in use.
Great job in making such a huge improvement to a nice bike for little more than pocket change. Such a wide range of skills you have Del. Thanks to you and Penny for another fine video. Happy Easter to you both.
Sure thing Kenneth, certainly with painted forks that's for sure, possibly with chrome as well... the worst part is as the crud collects up, it'll start wearing the fork seals too!
Awesome video as usual. Hope all is well..I just picked up a 22 Street Bob and wanted your opinion on something since I do value your opinion and work. Been reading alot about the Catch Can/Filter mod for the Oil that comes into the air filter. What are your thoughts on that.
Hey Byron, great to hear form you again... OK, the whole 'catch can' debate depends on whether you develop a lot of internal moisture from condensation, riding in a colder climate, maybe short trips, then you will get more water vapour in your rocker cases and that will carry oil residue, which in the factory setup gets re-breathed through the engine and vaporized in the exhaust cat converter... but if you don't want it in your motor, and prefer to vent it out of the breather in the rocker assembly, then a catch can is a great way to do that... Also if you're running an open type filter with no facility to re-breath the oil mist, then you'll need some way to safely get rid of it.. It's a whole bad idea to run just a small filter on the end of the external hoses, that will eventually fill up and start spitting out oily mist over your bike, so a catch can is a great idea, not only because it keeps the mess off your bike, but it's also way better for the environment.. Finally Byron.. if you live in a warm climate, and get your bike really hot every time you ride, then you will hardly ever fill the can itself, maybe twice a year just check it and wipe it out with a shop towel...but if you live in a colder place and do short trips.. then just clean the can out every month or so..(which only takes a few minutes).. Hope that helps you buddy... ride safe and enjoy your new bike.. Del.
I've always put copper on my caliper bolts when replacing as you also do. Last time I got tyres fitted the guy said if anything I should be using locktite. What are your thoughts on this
Actually mate, he's not wrong... and nor is using anti-seize! Simple fact is, use something rather than nothing, a mild blue threadlock will form a barrier between the dis-similar metals of the bolt and the caliper and stop them corroding in place, and the same's done by the anti-seize, it's just one of those unusual situations where both solutions work... just don't ever install them dry.
That's a really poor design. My XBR500 had to have new stauntions fitted last year. Sod of a job. That was from road blast. I have had gaiters on a bike with splits at the top of the fork that let in water and no way out. Should be part of the annual maintenance.
Totally agree mate.. in my view rubber gators need to be lifted and cleaned out regularly and keep them 'wetted' inside with something like GT85 to inhibit moisture..!
Hi Matthew, yes indeed Sir, here you go, it's a little pricey, but it's a precision instrument, comes in a beautiful steel box, will last you a lifetime... they can be returned to Wiha for re-calibration for a small fee and in my view on small fasteners (5-14Nm), precision is critical... a cheap torque wrnech can cost you way more than one of these if you were to strip a thread on the bottom of your forks! www.spanner-monkey.co.uk/Wiha-Torque-T-Handle-ST-Plus-TorqueVario-Set-29234?search=wiha%20vario&description=true
Being a new person to your blog I have to say after watching a bunch of your videos you are quite the Craftsman, I enjoy your work especially with Sportsters since I'm a Sportster guy carry on mate Happy Days
I hope you know what you’re doing! Your videos are and will be for years to come, the right technique, the right method, and the CORRECT way to pursue and perform maintenance the way it should be done!!! I’m older now and retired (read “lazy” beyond words), but if I had a choice of ALL the TH-cam Content Providers out there, You are at the absolute Top of the List! Folks young & old, can watch your videos and get so much instruction and knowledge without a constant running commentary. Fantastic, superb, awesome 👍😎👍😎👍😎👍😎🤗🤗🤗👨🦳🙏
My word, thank you so much for such kind and inspiring words... we started making You Tube content nearly 12yrs ago to simply pass forward a few tips and tricks to help our fellow riders take care of their bikes at home. I worked in the motorcycle trade for 10yrs and it became apparent that many riders had neither the money to book their bikes in for routine maintenance work (as dealer rates are expensive now), and nor did they have the skills, or confidence, to do it at home... and this combination meant the work simply got overlooked and their bikes were being neglected... and even from a dealer standpoint, a neglected and tired bike is no good as a part-exchange and you can't do business with people with they can't trade their bikes in..... so we were happy to guide anybody to step up and do their own maintenance..... and once I left the trade, decided to bring that mantra to the internet and use the platform for something constructive. Thank you so much again for your kind words, we hope you enjoy the videos and that they can be useful for you too, kind regards, Del
Another great video Dell. Such detail you go in to. Still not got round to doing my Yzf750 fork seals but will be using your video how to, for guidence. Thanks for all your effort making these vids. Vinny.
@@Moonfleet41 never had that happen, they will drop to the floor, with the guard on they will catch and go around and launch across the room, test it out for yourself.
Thank you Richard, it made sense in the end I guess, I did wonder what caused it so severely myself till I tapped the covers upwards and took a look underneath, bit of a daft design, and a true example of form over function... enjoy your weekend mate!
Gators are fine Robert, the dirt shouldn't get inside them if they're fitted properly, but it doesn't hurt to squirt some water dispersant, like GT85 or some other silicone spray inside them to present moisture build up!
I am sure that you have already heard this, but I love how perfectly organized your method is, your shop is precise. and you handle tools like a surgeon.
Thank you kindly!
End result of the forks, to me, might as well be powder coat- they turned out awesome. So glad you picked the "dress cap delete" option, lol. Maybe they work in say, Florida or Arizona or somewhere where owners only ever ride on sunny days, but for the rest of the poor sods who actually go out in poor weather, all they do is collect nasty stuff! Great call.
Sure thing buddy, I'm sure if I took a look inside the dress caps it would have had printed 'not applicable for UK use'! Have a great weekend fella and thanks for your support.
After you mentioned the cover to me I began thinking and came up with the same conclusion as you. The forks look great without those covers. I would most likely have done the same thing (cutting them off) and saved a ton of work. Great job Del and Penny.
Thanks Mike, simple solution, i guess you get the same salt problems on the roads in winter where you live ! and that makes these covers a liability right?.. those who live in the sunshine states don't know the half if it brother..lol!
Very interesting . . . and very good point. When looking at the new Street Bobs at a HD dealership a few years back, I didn't like the gators on the forks and asked about removing them. I had peeked under them and seen that the lower and upper fork joints were sealed the exact same way as on yours - a dark grey plastic-looking insert around the tube at the joint. I was told that removing the gators would be at my own risk and could affect the warranty against any premature damage incurred by the forks due to moisture, dirt, etc., getting inside the forks and causing corrosion. Looks like the gators (dress caps in your case) may actually themselves cause such damage. And, ironically, a couple of year later HD came out with the Softail Standard (essentially a stripped down Street Bob) and it had no gators - only those plastic-looking seals at the joints. Purely in terms of aesthetics I much prefer the dress caps to those plastic seals (and the gators, certainly) and in fact inquired if I could get some put on in lieu of the gators. I never did end up getting a Street Bob . . . got my beautiful 1200 Low instead . . . with all that brilliant chrome ! : )
Yes indeed mate, that sounds like classic dealer's covering their back, warn you of the risks of removing them, then remove them themselves in the next model! Congratulations on your bike, hope you're enjoying it and have fun in the new season!
Love to see a bike lover fix bikes ...no corners cut and done properly
No need to justify cutting them off . Dismantling the front end would only achieve the same result . When you said you were going to get rid , I immediately thought Tin Snips or Side cutters ! Labour for the sake of labour is futile .
Peace and love brother and PP. Have a lovely Easter . 👍🏻☮❤😉
Sure thing brother, but you know how it is, two pinch bolts whilst the forks are already stripped like they are, slip the fork out, slip it back in, pinch it up and drop those silly covers in the bin, probably wouldn't have taken any longer than snipping them off, just feels like the wrong way to do it! But it would have trashed the vinyl wrap... Have a great weekend both of you, and keep safe! D&Px
Another cracking job, would just be nice if bike manufacturers thought of things like this in the first place.
Thanks mate, and Yeah. That would be cool, but i won't be holding my breath.. :-))
Sometimes the obvious isn't so obvious if you're not looking for it Designers are in a protected environment and some have possibly never ridden a bike
i can't think of anything more satisfying than putting those last couple of pieces on when the project is done
That’s funny you’ve come to this conclusion because when I was watching the first video I was thinking ‘why have the leg tops corroded so badly’ and I concluded that water/muck must be getting in through the gap at the top of the trim cap and then sits inside doing its darstardly work. I then thought ‘if that was mine, I’d cut those caps off with my tin snips’. Low and behold, that’s what it was and that’s what you did’. High five!
Great minds think alike aye mate..!
Hey Del, mate, your level of attention to detail is off the dial. You're methodical, precise and a pleasure to watch and learn from. Keep it up 👍 cheers, all the way from New Zealand
Thanks so much mate, we really appreciate your kind feedback and we're glad you enjoy the videos!
Diagnosing the problem and removing the cause as well as the result is the difference between being a mechanic and a great mechanic.
Why thank you kindly.
Yes I'll get myself some tough black for my rat survival bike better than rattle cans any day. Nice one Del.
I was going to get the FJ 12 but at the last minute decided not to as fuel is still far to expensive so got myself a rather nice Suzy GS 500 but no ordinary GS oh no one that has had a professional make over done on it, single seat conversion with fiberglass seat pan/side panels/tail piece all integrated as one unit and a professionally fabricated and a smashing 2 pac paint job with a American army bike theme, a scrambler come road bike.
Seeing is believing Del it wont replace the bandit that was stolen but it sure comes close!
Hi Marc, wow that sounds awesome buddy, it sounds by your description like a bike I've seen on the internet... but don't keep us in 'suspenders', let's have photos! Drop us an image or two to our email buddy, we'd love to see it! Email: delboysgarage@yahoo.com Have a great Easter weekend and enjoy Risen Day, ride safe, god bless, D&Px
Had to do pretty much the same thing on my KZ1000, got into it be4 it got too nasty. Mine was clearcoated aluminum so some quick polishing and a few coats of clear too care of it. The KZ did not have the metal caps like the HD, just rubber dust shields and the corrosion had crept under there too but cleaned up with little drama. 42 yrs. old and 30K miles still with the original seals,,,,,
Nice, you did the right thing removing those shrouds/covers, they're unnecessary, and as you say, a problem really. The Black Bomb looks great, this summer's going to be like 1976 hopefully, and what does that mean? .... Bike time! Sounds nice, have you changed the carb/re-jetted it since doing the barrels, or are you happy how it is?
You COULD have drained the forks; then removed the top fork caps and springs. Then removed the fork lowers and pulled those black sleeves off- leaving the stanchions in place.
But you’re quite correct: that was the easiest and best and quickest way to get rid of them.
Another job done well.
I even prefer the look without the fancy dressing over the seal. I may or may not ever own a Harley but that girl sounded pretty nice pulling out of your shop.
Hey brother, thank you for those kind words, I guess the reason it looks familiar without them is that all other bikes, other than Harleys, don't have them! This is the normal set up now... and I think you hit a point there, that even for people who actually don't like Harleys, they still love the sound, it's definitely their forte! Have a great Easter weekend, D&Px
Some might say that the caps were there to protect the rubber seals, but they really weren’t doing their job so better to be rid buddy. Nice finish!👍🏻
Exactly, the rubber dust seals work by themselves on all other bikes, conventional or USD forks, all these did was harbour the crud.. and scratch the paint when fitting to allow the salt to do it's work..! daft idea aye.!
Stripped and repainted a 2015, 883 a few years back for a mate. I fully agree that caps/covers just result in paint issues as he's an all weather rider the issue returned after about a year & half. Great tips as always
Noted for the future. 👌👌
Made whole lotta sense!! Never seen caps on them… I would be used without them. Never seen corrosion on forks. Hope I never have to face that. Thank you for sharing.
Thanks for watching buddy, glad you enjoyed it.
I would've wasted 30 minutes using a Dremel... You made that look too easy 😂
Great video Del. The forks look fantastic and definitely a cost savings compared to powder coating. Have a great weekend. Cheers.
Great videos Del. Really enjoyed your tips. Yes I would have removed those covers too.
Thanks buddy👍, simple solution i guess !
Spot on with your decision to cut off. Great job on repairing and painting.
Thanks Dave👍
Nice finish on the forks Del, well worth doing and excellently demonstrated, as usual.
Thanks buddy👍, glad you enjoyed it.
Obvs too late now, but I wonder if in future you could find some sort of gasket that would fit the dress cap dimensions?
The better solution would be if from a design pov they used a grub screw. Both so you could easily lift them, but also so you could have a looser fit which would help them get naturally rinsed a bit when you wash the bike.
Just another top video Del. I love these visits to your workshop. Hope you and Penny have a great Easter👍
Thanks so much, you too mate.. take it easy and enjoy the holiday weekend.
Well diagnosed, Del. Pulled off, of course, with your usual consideration, care and style. Excellent camera work, Penny! Nice job, both of you!
Thank you kindly sir, we're glad you enjoyed it. A simple fix that anyone can do at home with minimal fuss.. Have a great weekend and keep safe. D&Px
Nice, not the only one that thinks dress covers are not worth it.
Agree with your decision Del to remove the fork covers definitely looked like they were the culprits to your corrosion 👍
They sure were mate, the forks can now be cleaned, there's nothing worse than dirt you can't get to aye?!
Another great vid, thoroughly enjoyed it. Couldn’t understand why you didn’t feel cutting off the seal covers was the best way to go! If you had fully removed the forks you would still just be discarding them, time and labour saving! Looking forward to the next vid now.
Hi Geoff, I just re-read your message a few times, and I think I get what you're trying to say, is not to feel guilty about cutting them off cos I'd have thrown them away anyway... but in real terms what I meant in the video was, that I hate 'butchering' something to get it off, when two pinch bolts and slip the fork out would have meant I didn't have to, I just don't like butchering anything! I was just forced to do it to preserve the vinyl wrap...
@@Moonfleet41 Del, OP was helping with the guilt of trashing the covers...as you would chuck them, however they were removed.
@@TheJameswort Hi James, I re-read Geoff's message again and I think I get what he's trying to say... so I've completely re-written my reply, thanks for your input buddy, this proves that the written word is always harder to get a point across than saying it verbally aye, cheers again, Del
Great job on those forks Del. Those fork legs look bang on right.100% agree bout the useless dress caps..more trouble than they're worth. That crap builds up over time if you ride in usual British weather. I'd be well chuffed with the job you've done if it were my bike. Love n best wishes to you n your good lady.
Thanks buddy, should be ok to last a few years now, a case or form over function aye.!
Well done for figuring out the erosion problem, just cos they're engineers doesn't mean they're perfect, a rubber gasket on the top of that flange would possibly fix that problem
Good explanation how the salt and grime collected under the dress caps and lead to corrosion. Wishing both of you a Happy Easter
Günter from Nürnberg/Germany
Happy Easter to you too Günter, take care and keep safe!
Great video bloke, those forks turned out sweet, amazing isn`t it that Harley build expensive motorcycles with high degrees of engineering yet seem to get the most basic engineering designs wrong, why they didn`t include some kind of internal dust seal or large O ring into the top of that dust shroud i don`t know, something like that would have waterproofed it and the actual fork seals would be there as a secondary back up, daft really when you think about it, have a great weekend fella, love to Lady P, take care.
You're dead right buddy, imagine if they'd deleted the traditional dust seal (which is what I've left in place), and made that dress cap in to the dust seal with an inner top rubber lip and make the whole thing a nice screw on affair so it's easy to lift up, rather than hammering it, like you say... good engineering badly executed... but all fixed now! Have a great Easter weekend there, ride safe, D&Px
Great video brother ! it will definitely help out with corrosion, Im glad you are able to troubleshoot and correct the problem 👍 and brother , that bike at the end sounds Awesome 👏 😎🏍 what a nice sound it has !!! stay safe guys cheers from new york 🍺🍺🍺🍺
Hey brother, thank you so much for watching till the end! You're right, it has one awesome voice! It's wonderful to hear from you as always, enjoy your Easter weekend and keep safe both of you! D&Px
Vance & Hines Short Shots; complete system. cat delete.
@@bill_4359 Mid Shots!
Great video Del & Penny. Excellent job mate and nice bit of info to help others not get the same problem with corrosion. Penny and you have a Great Easter and hope the weather is good so you can get out on the bikes. Just got back from a nice 200km ride, weather was a nice 28c , take care. Cheers
Hi mate, thanks so much fir your kind words, im pretty happy now that the corrosion won't come back, just a bad design i guess. Weather is finally settled and warm now, 18c and sunny, getting out for a ride this weekend for sure, time for a little R&R.. Take care and keep safe, and have a happy Easter ..D&Pxx
Those covers were such a design flaw from day one - not even any weep holes to allow water out and occasional flushing with GT85 etc. FWIW, l would use silicone grease rather than RRG as it causes zero stiction. Subbed 👍🏻
Welcome aboard mate, and thanks for sharing that tip... have a great weekend.
@@Moonfleet41 thank you! Likewise to you and yours 👍🏻
I've been carefully buying me bits and bobs to do my Honda NC750X now, you say Scotchbrite mop in part 1... wtf is that? You sand paper at 400 grit but the scotchbrite mop im seeing when i google it is is brown and like just wire wool lol, is it the blue flap discs with the sandpaper? They say there 1000 grit so im just rather confused and I really dont want to get this wrong and ive been pausing and staring for nearly 2 days lol HELP ME DEL!!! 😂
Thanks again though buddy! Ive got sooo into fixing cars/bikes that ive just finished a level 2 motor vehicle technician course! Inspired a love i never knew i had at 33 years old 🙂
Hi mate, sorry for the confusion... they are indeed a flap disc made from little squares of Scotch Pad, they come in 3 grades, coarse, medium and fine, and here's a link to them mate.... www.weldequip.com/polishing-flap-discs-115mm.htm
Couldn't make this up, But I just swapped my 2016 gsxs1000 abs for a 2003 softail deluxe and its got those chrome caps on and its exactly the same as this bike was. Im glad I have a step by step guide now tho
Congratulations Marcus, sounds like a real change of style for you, slowing the pace down a bit and a little more comfort I guess! Good luck sorting out your forks, and if yours have done the same as this bike was, then I'm sure you'll be leaving the dress caps off!! Ride safe.
@@Moonfleet41 I had a 02 anniversary dyna lowrider before the suzuki but I missed the harley to much. Those dress caps I will take off an ebay them or find a rubber seal for them maybe, so how,
Lovely result and a very common sense approach to preventing the issue for the future.
Always enjoyable Del
Happy Easter to the both of you
Ride safe and keep well.
Nick Australia
Hey mate, great to hear from you, as you can see from this series, what our wonderful weather does to our bikes here in Blighty, oh how we long for some red sand and dust and no salt! Have a fantastic Easter weekend... don't let your Easter Eggs melt ;-) All the very best, D&Px
I see you torquing up copper slipped bolts. What is your view of the consideration that with copper slip on the bolts that one could possibly ‘over torque’ the bolts because the copper slip allows extra movement within the thread and that the bolt is not ‘stopping’ at the same point that it would had it not got any ‘lube’ on it?
Hi Steve.. Rather cleverly, the Harley manuals give a "dual torque value", not a single torque setting. so for instance, a 5/16th bolt could be listed as 25 to 35 ft lbs... So if you're fitting the bolt bone dry, into a dry thread, you could max it out.. but if it's a 'wet thread' then go with the lower end of the range..!
@@Moonfleet41 Ah, now that’s clever thinking. Not a lot of people are aware of the potential damage to the bolt when torquing wet bolts.
@@hollowaysteve Very much so, specially with Thread Lock, even though it's a glue to hold the bolt in.. it's still slippery when it's wet.!
Great job Del as always. Those cap cause a lot damage. Is that a true brass wire wheel or is it brass coated steel?
Brass coated steel i think mate.. have a great weekend and thanks for your support.
Not really sure when it started but your last year of videos are really professional. The presentation, recording and editing are first class . Im really enjoying them Del and Penny please keep em coming
Thank you so much Aaron, we really appreciate those kind and generous words. We strive constantly to keep improving the filming and post production, but at the same time stay with our core intention to pass on a few tips, tricks and techniques that anyone can do at home and same some money. Thank you again and have a peaceful Eater Sunday.. D&Pxx
Who knew that pair of 'My Little Rabbi Tin-snips' would come in so handy one day; cruel, but the kindest thing really : )xx
Too right buddy, no salty residue now... ooer. !
Thankfully, Penny hit him with the soft end of the Stilsons . . .
Since watching your channel years ago I've noticed that you are very skilled at what you do and what penny does too keep up the good insightful work del,
PS you should open up your own shop
Thanks buddy 👍, you're very kind.
@@Moonfleet41 no problems mate just saying how I see it
Awesome job as always, Del! Thank you! By the way, how do I get the ABS indicator to switch off. I needed to remove my back tyre a while back, it was before I discovered your channel, so maybe it's coz I didn't torque the brake module back into place?
Hi there.. as long as you have now torqued it back correctly, then drop the bike in to your local Harley dealer and they can deal with the light for you. shouldn't take them a few minutes.
smashed it again Del you leg end!! lol
Use pcv pipe to make new upper fork sleeves between the trees, paints black of course
What stoopid idea from Harley ! Lets put something on that will hold all the moisture and road crud around the top of the leg 😲🥴🤔 looks MILES better without em. Just keep them chromed stanchions well waxed polished too it really helps keep micro scratches smooth for no damage to oil seals too. NICE looking Harley that too 👌 none of that shiny shit bling ! 👍
Sure thing mate, seems a bit of a 'form-over-function' mistake, but all sorted now. and yeah, i prefer them a bit more 'dark custom' meself.. !
one so wise for one so young .Great vid as is the norm ,
Hermoso trabajo, BEAUTIFULLY, desde CHILE
Thank you so much.
Love your videos. You should have sorted out the noisy exhaust while you were at it.
Great, if you have your own garage/workshop, bike lift or other means to keep it nice and steady when front wheel goes out and obviously you need tools. Yes, £10 but if I asked you to do it for me would that be cheaper then powder coating? Still, for every job like that some undercover and safe space is required. So, as I have skills and most of the tools, for this kind of jobs on my bike I have to ask someone to do it :( By the way, fantastic paint and repair job, as always.
My gf had a storage locker for a few years near our condo 10x25, I asked if i can have 5 feet right to left 10 feet front to back, So now I have my mini garage with big red floor lift given to me by a bigger, home made wooden floor lift that cost $10.00 to build ( three top n bottom mechanics tool box filled neatly) I saw made on TH-cam / I do most of my work and some things like engine or transmission tire change I'll leave for my biker mechanic garage / u do as you can
Rich
do you know any reason why my electrical will just drop out. I have a tested Antigravity ATX-12-HD ReStart 480CA Lithium Ion Battery, way more then necc for my 1200 nightster. The past two days, the bike take a while to turn over and it will just turn off if I immediately ride off. I have to let it sit for a while otherwise it'll just turn of like a loose ground. I've checked the ground to the battery, its fine. the rectifier is good. I don't know what's happening.
Hi Dave, I have a genuine H-D lithium battery on this Dyna, and it needs a dedicated lithium charger, I presume you're suing one of those? ... otherwise, take a multi meter and carry out some checks to make sure you have no loose grounds on either end of the earth strap and check the earth strap between engine and frame.
Not a bad piece of advice there John, lithium batteries are good when they're healthy and fresh, but the minute they're a tiny bit less than 100%, they need replacing... and they're expensive! Lead acid or glass mat, such as Motobatt Black (for Harleys), are ever reliable!
I think my local gas station watered it down,.. Only started when I filled up two days ago. I check grounds, voltage drop on positive and ground side, strator and rectifier, batteries good. Might check the circuit breaker next.
Best off without them! Good job they were made of crisp packet 👍🏻 enjoy the long weekend.
Cheers buddy, hope you're enjoying yourself on your away break!
Another great job Del.
I like your ability , your precision and passion !!!!
Great attention to detail! You got another subscriber.
Thank you Sir, welcome aboard!
my curious is, would those plastic caps not help keep the rubber seals in place? No chance for those rubbers to slide up the fork as they go in/out over bumps? My lack of understanding is the reason im asking. Not questioning. If it works as you say without my worry, i think youve clearly solved the corosion issue.
Hi Jamie, good to hear from you again... and perhaps you noticed in the video that those fork dust caps don't just push down in to the fork, they have to be tapped down with a mallet, they're very tight and definitely stay put... it's exactly the same arrangement on every other motorcycle, and all these dress caps do is harbour the road dirt!
Best way to do it and saved yourself a lot of time.
Appreciated Del! Have a great weekend.
Thanks, you too buddy!
Way to go Del, chop the tin rings of doom !
Sure thing mate, seemed like a sensible idea and should make the new paint last for years! Have a great weekend buddy, and thanks for your support.
@@Moonfleet41 On a side note, do HD still use Imperial fasteners ?
Here is an amusing story. Here in deepest rural SW France, my neighbour, a retired engineer wanted to service his ride on mower. The motor was Briggs & (scrap em) Stratton. his metric sockets did no fit. He talked to me as I was a maintenance engineer in a local factory. So I lent him my AF Draper socket set I still have from the 70's when I had Greeves bikes. He was so pleased I had to go next door to sink a litre of Pernod with him.
@@russcattell955i Hi again Russ, yes pretty much most of a Harley is still imperial, or as Americans call them 'standard', there are the odd metric fasteners here and there, strange things like the brake caliper mounting bolts are a 12-sided 10mm, like a spline bolt... but generally still imperial standard to this day....
Beautiful work, you are quite the artist.
Thank you so much 😀
Top notch job mate and we'll spotted with them caps...
I want to pay for a motorcycle maintenance course with you Del!
The only currency I recognise is cake or chips!
I need to do mine so this was just the job nice one
Good luck Andy, hope yours goes well mate.
Odd bit of short-sighted engineering, those caps. On an otherwise brilliant bike. Rubber gaiters might have been better, but they look so tacky on some forks. Hope you both have a relaxing and enjoyable Easter weekend. Cheers!
You're right Guy, the touring bike forks have the best solution with the steel shroud, but they'd look a bit heavy on a Dyna i guess.. Ejoy our weekend too mate. D&Px
The forks look great. That is some nice paint! I saw that it was Simonize branded paint, but I am curious to know if it is an acrylic, alkyd enamel or some kind of polyurethane?
I’m looking for an equivalent available in the USA
Hi there, we've had this question many times from people in the U.S. as I don't think it's available there... from my understanding, it's an acrylic durable stone chip paint and I believe there's some equivalents in the Rustoleum, not sure which, but you'll find something close to this from that company!
Thank you so much!
Neat, helpful and to the point primer, Del! Who knew those beauty rings were the cause of the corrosion! Hope you and Penny are doing well there..
🏍👍🏍
Thanks Gary. Glad you enjoyed it sir, simple and effective fix and it shouldn't come back in a hurry now the dress covers are gone.. have a great week and tale care. D&Px
@@Moonfleet41 Yessir- and you both as well! 😎
You are a surgeon my man. Excellent video!
Why thank you kindly sir. I appreciate that!
Very nice! I see what you mean now about the tin caps being the problem.
If you have any similar advice for dealing with corrosion on a Sportster Triple Tree I’d love to hear it. Had mine replaced twice by HD and the paint is still peeling off.
Sure thing buddy, I feel your pain, as the paint on the trees on this bike is already blistering up, it's a job I'll save for another day as there's no short cut for that one, it's a full on front end strip, so that'll be a video to come... and to answer your question, the remedy is to get rid of the factory paint! Sadly, and not wishing to be derogatory, the paint used on the triple trees and fork sliders on Harleys isn't very good, and it's inevitable you'll lose it in the end, so if you can do it yourself, drop them out and re-paint as I've done here like I've done with the forks... if that's not within your skill set, then perhaps have someone take them out and get a paint shop to re-paint them, or have them powder coated, and as an aftermarket finish, that'll last far longer than the factory stuff... plus of course mate, stay on top of our cleaning so they don't get dirty and chipped in use.
@@Moonfleet41 thanks for the excellent reply buddy. I’ll look forward to seeing your videos on this, as-and-when you get round to doing it 👍🏻
Great job in making such a huge improvement to a nice bike for little more than pocket change. Such a wide range of skills you have Del. Thanks to you and Penny for another fine video. Happy Easter to you both.
Thank you kindly Sir, glad you enjoyed the video! Have a good Easter weekend too mate.
Absolutely the thing to do and the best way to do it! Never apologize great job 👏 👌 👍
Thanks Mark 👍, really appreciate your kind support.
Excellent camera work again, I'd do exactly the same with those covers and would suggest others do the same, ridiculous, idea.👍
Sure thing Kenneth, certainly with painted forks that's for sure, possibly with chrome as well... the worst part is as the crud collects up, it'll start wearing the fork seals too!
Spot on, Del! 💪🏻
nice job Del, and nice FXDLS!
Many thanks Richard, glad you enjoyed the video!
Always top notch!
Always better off with gator boots
Awesome video as usual. Hope all is well..I just picked up a 22 Street Bob and wanted your opinion on something since I do value your opinion and work. Been reading alot about the Catch Can/Filter mod for the Oil that comes into the air filter. What are your thoughts on that.
Hey Byron, great to hear form you again... OK, the whole 'catch can' debate depends on whether you develop a lot of internal moisture from condensation, riding in a colder climate, maybe short trips, then you will get more water vapour in your rocker cases and that will carry oil residue, which in the factory setup gets re-breathed through the engine and vaporized in the exhaust cat converter... but if you don't want it in your motor, and prefer to vent it out of the breather in the rocker assembly, then a catch can is a great way to do that... Also if you're running an open type filter with no facility to re-breath the oil mist, then you'll need some way to safely get rid of it..
It's a whole bad idea to run just a small filter on the end of the external hoses, that will eventually fill up and start spitting out oily mist over your bike, so a catch can is a great idea, not only because it keeps the mess off your bike, but it's also way better for the environment..
Finally Byron.. if you live in a warm climate, and get your bike really hot every time you ride, then you will hardly ever fill the can itself, maybe twice a year just check it and wipe it out with a shop towel...but if you live in a colder place and do short trips.. then just clean the can out every month or so..(which only takes a few minutes).. Hope that helps you buddy... ride safe and enjoy your new bike.. Del.
I've always put copper on my caliper bolts when replacing as you also do. Last time I got tyres fitted the guy said if anything I should be using locktite. What are your thoughts on this
Actually mate, he's not wrong... and nor is using anti-seize! Simple fact is, use something rather than nothing, a mild blue threadlock will form a barrier between the dis-similar metals of the bolt and the caliper and stop them corroding in place, and the same's done by the anti-seize, it's just one of those unusual situations where both solutions work... just don't ever install them dry.
Great Video
Great results Del look forward to the next video 👏👌👍
Thanks Chris. Glad you enjoyed it mate!
Think you are on the money. Bad design fault. Great work as all ways enjoy many thanks
Thanks 👍
Outstanding Man 👏👏👏👏👏
Thank you so much 😀
That's a really poor design. My XBR500 had to have new stauntions fitted last year. Sod of a job. That was from road blast. I have had gaiters on a bike with splits at the top of the fork that let in water and no way out. Should be part of the annual maintenance.
Totally agree mate.. in my view rubber gators need to be lifted and cleaned out regularly and keep them 'wetted' inside with something like GT85 to inhibit moisture..!
can you send a link for the t bar torque tool you use please ?
Hi Matthew, yes indeed Sir, here you go, it's a little pricey, but it's a precision instrument, comes in a beautiful steel box, will last you a lifetime... they can be returned to Wiha for re-calibration for a small fee and in my view on small fasteners (5-14Nm), precision is critical... a cheap torque wrnech can cost you way more than one of these if you were to strip a thread on the bottom of your forks! www.spanner-monkey.co.uk/Wiha-Torque-T-Handle-ST-Plus-TorqueVario-Set-29234?search=wiha%20vario&description=true
Being a new person to your blog I have to say after watching a bunch of your videos you are quite the Craftsman, I enjoy your work especially with Sportsters since I'm a Sportster guy carry on mate Happy Days
Thank you for your kind words and welcome aboard!
I hope you know what you’re doing! Your videos are and will be for years to come, the right technique, the right method, and the CORRECT way to pursue and perform maintenance the way it should be done!!! I’m older now and retired (read “lazy” beyond words), but if I had a choice of ALL the TH-cam Content Providers out there, You are at the absolute Top of the List! Folks young & old, can watch your videos and get so much instruction and knowledge without a constant running commentary. Fantastic, superb, awesome 👍😎👍😎👍😎👍😎🤗🤗🤗👨🦳🙏
My word, thank you so much for such kind and inspiring words... we started making You Tube content nearly 12yrs ago to simply pass forward a few tips and tricks to help our fellow riders take care of their bikes at home. I worked in the motorcycle trade for 10yrs and it became apparent that many riders had neither the money to book their bikes in for routine maintenance work (as dealer rates are expensive now), and nor did they have the skills, or confidence, to do it at home... and this combination meant the work simply got overlooked and their bikes were being neglected... and even from a dealer standpoint, a neglected and tired bike is no good as a part-exchange and you can't do business with people with they can't trade their bikes in..... so we were happy to guide anybody to step up and do their own maintenance..... and once I left the trade, decided to bring that mantra to the internet and use the platform for something constructive. Thank you so much again for your kind words, we hope you enjoy the videos and that they can be useful for you too, kind regards, Del
Corner 👍👍
Need to go for a ride Del!! Fieldtrip?
Darn right I do! ...
Another great video Dell. Such detail you go in to. Still not got round to doing my Yzf750 fork seals but will be using your video how to, for guidence. Thanks for all your effort making these vids. Vinny.
Thanks buddy.Glad to help! good luck with it and hope it goes smoothly.
Good observation on the forks Del👌👌
Everytime I see that wire brush with the cover on it I get scared, remove the cover, ever had a bolt go in there?
Wait, remove the safety cover on a wire wheel?? So it can catch a bolt and throw it at yer forehead, yeah, I'll leave you to do that one mate!
@@Moonfleet41 never had that happen, they will drop to the floor, with the guard on they will catch and go around and launch across the room, test it out for yourself.
Oh man, is that a torque T bar?
Yes Steve, torques up to 14Nm !
@@Moonfleet41 I had no idea. I’m putting one on my list. Thanks.
Mate treat the bike so fragile. 🤯🤯🤯
Yep - that looks like a bullshit "upgrade" - Good riddance to those caps. A real shame that they caused permanent damage to the forks.
Yeah i agree, but all fixed now Ole, so not totally permanent aye. !
@@Moonfleet41 I mean that you can still see the discoloration around the tops - but great work shining all that up, Del!
Viewing the first video I wonder how that road grim got in NOW i know, another fine job !
Happy Good Friday, Happy Risen Day !
To All.
R & C
Thank you Richard, it made sense in the end I guess, I did wonder what caused it so severely myself till I tapped the covers upwards and took a look underneath, bit of a daft design, and a true example of form over function... enjoy your weekend mate!
Like new.
my 883 has gators. just wonder if i would be better off to just cut them off. they are in good shape though. hmmmmm
Gators are fine Robert, the dirt shouldn't get inside them if they're fitted properly, but it doesn't hurt to squirt some water dispersant, like GT85 or some other silicone spray inside them to present moisture build up!
@@Moonfleet41 thanks for the info. sure appreciate it.