Great video. Lots of things to say. Most important is that misdiagnosis is a HUGE problem with the promaster trans. 1.8 million miles on them, and I have never needed a trans. I have needed two solenoid packs, which is a $200 part that can be installed in a couple hours without taking the trans out. Tell me your symptoms/codes. Next, you dont have to pull the computer or surge tank. There’s room. Next, you dont have to pull the control arm. You can just remove the axles. It takes two guys and a big ass bar. Search my name and axle to see a video of how it’s done. You will have a bitch of a time getting the trans back in. The trick is to build a wooden cradle that mates your flat floor jack or trans jack to the bottom of the trans as it sits. Then it lines up JUST going up or down. Next, there are two locating dowels in the trans. If you are missing one on reassembly, you will be back there for a cracked flexplate in no time. Next, mopar had a bulletin, and requires you use new torque to yield bolts on the upper trans mount. I dont do that, but you probably should. Last, if for some reason you do have a truly bad trans, you can substitute any 14-up 62te in a promaster. Like from a minivan or journey. That takes a $2500 trans down to under $1000. It will fit and work, but the promaster has a deeper final drive, so your gearing will be off. Once on the bench, you could swap the pm diff over to the new tranny pretty easily. I havent done it, but it seems easy.
This was a friends and a guy changed the engine for him a few weeks prior but forgot to tell him that he took it out with the converter still attached and maybe axles out so the tranny drained nearly all of the fluid and it lost reverse at only 116k so it spit the tranny apart the day after they changed the engine, what an unfortuneate story for him. But man i will totaly pass this super informative message on to him. And now i do realise you dont have to take anything out unless you want to work more comfy or have really long arms. The dowel pins are a must also for reassemble i learned to put them in the engine and put the shim plate on the engine and not the tranny or it will get cought on the flywheel on the way in "what a stupid design" but yes i do have both dowels
Yep keep the arm in the driver side and just bend it down to release the baljoint to pop it out, thats how we did it. I probably should of had the camera zoomed out more but its hard to play camera man and stay focused 😂 Overall its a super super super easy tranny to swap im pretty sure i could get in and out down to 1.5 hours with no break
Nice to know, I will service(filter/fluid) my transmission every 50K, use the best synthetic fluid I can get, and not expect problems for the 100-150K miles I have it. Also has drive train and suspension information. That's a lot of bolts, nice to know it's in there securely.
Think my flexplate is cracked at 60,000 just started ticking. Doubt its the rocker arms as the sound comes through drivers side wheel well but you never no. I do wind it out way to much on the rpms gonna stop that. Need to properly diagnose it. Any suggestions? You got lucky there are a lot of broken trannies out there.
Great video . Mine cracked due to driver side colisión . A guy welded it using aluminum but now leaks only when driving … weird… I think I’m gonna have to bring it down and epoxy the hole or crack .. I bought like that. The end cover edge cracked . I porous in the aluminum, likely coming front the but it’s hard to access. I see a sensor on the right of the end cover, engine side facing to the rear.
Thanks for the video. My son bought a 2018 Promaster 1500 with 80,000 miles and a bad transmission. Pulling it this weekend to drop off at the transmission shop for a rebuild. other than a new flex plate any suggestions on items to change when it goes back in?
@kip amore I'm not sure if you will see this message, but here it goes. I have a 2014 Promaster 1500 with a 3.0 diesel. It seems like the clutch is slipping. If taking off from a slight incline the engine will rev up before it starts to move. Also when its hot outside, the shifts between gears seems delayed then when it goes into gear, it goes into gear harsh. I took it to our local dealer and they are not certain its the clutch, but they gave me a quote for the clutch and flywheel and the parts alone are close to $3000 cdn. Does that sound like it could be the clutch to you?
We are presently stuck in Lincoln City Oregon. Driving thru the mountains yesterday, 2015 Promaster 3500,going up a steep upgrade, the engine rpm started to increase but we rapidly slowed down. Engine running fine but now we are stopped. I opened drivers door, saw oil on the ground, fairly large sheen of oil but not enough to make it slippery. Cant see where oil came from, ( when i say oil im saying ATF) Had to get it towed, we have about 90,000 miles on it. Any suggestions, or where the oil may be coming from. Engine oil is judt fine. Thx
@@realslavmedia5792 i think there is zero quality control. I hear of too many people breaking down with identical problems!! We are sitting out another weekend waiting,....patiently!!
Great video.
Lots of things to say. Most important is that misdiagnosis is a HUGE problem with the promaster trans. 1.8 million miles on them, and I have never needed a trans. I have needed two solenoid packs, which is a $200 part that can be installed in a couple hours without taking the trans out. Tell me your symptoms/codes.
Next, you dont have to pull the computer or surge tank. There’s room.
Next, you dont have to pull the control arm. You can just remove the axles. It takes two guys and a big ass bar. Search my name and axle to see a video of how it’s done.
You will have a bitch of a time getting the trans back in. The trick is to build a wooden cradle that mates your flat floor jack or trans jack to the bottom of the trans as it sits. Then it lines up JUST going up or down.
Next, there are two locating dowels in the trans. If you are missing one on reassembly, you will be back there for a cracked flexplate in no time.
Next, mopar had a bulletin, and requires you use new torque to yield bolts on the upper trans mount. I dont do that, but you probably should.
Last, if for some reason you do have a truly bad trans, you can substitute any 14-up 62te in a promaster. Like from a minivan or journey. That takes a $2500 trans down to under $1000. It will fit and work, but the promaster has a deeper final drive, so your gearing will be off. Once on the bench, you could swap the pm diff over to the new tranny pretty easily. I havent done it, but it seems easy.
This was a friends and a guy changed the engine for him a few weeks prior but forgot to tell him that he took it out with the converter still attached and maybe axles out so the tranny drained nearly all of the fluid and it lost reverse at only 116k so it spit the tranny apart the day after they changed the engine, what an unfortuneate story for him.
But man i will totaly pass this super informative message on to him.
And now i do realise you dont have to take anything out unless you want to work more comfy or have really long arms.
The dowel pins are a must also for reassemble i learned to put them in the engine and put the shim plate on the engine and not the tranny or it will get cought on the flywheel on the way in "what a stupid design" but yes i do have both dowels
Yep keep the arm in the driver side and just bend it down to release the baljoint to pop it out, thats how we did it. I probably should of had the camera zoomed out more but its hard to play camera man and stay focused 😂
Overall its a super super super easy tranny to swap im pretty sure i could get in and out down to 1.5 hours with no break
@@realslavmedia5792 That sucks about his trans. Unfortunate.
Nice to know, I will service(filter/fluid) my transmission every 50K, use the best synthetic fluid I can get, and not expect problems for the 100-150K miles I have it. Also has drive train and suspension information. That's a lot of bolts, nice to know it's in there securely.
Think my flexplate is cracked at 60,000 just started ticking. Doubt its the rocker arms as the sound comes through drivers side wheel well but you never no. I do wind it out way to much on the rpms gonna stop that. Need to properly diagnose it. Any suggestions? You got lucky there are a lot of broken trannies out there.
Great video, I gotta do this tomorrow. I won’t forgot the dowels!
Great video . Mine cracked due to driver side colisión . A guy welded it using aluminum but now leaks only when driving … weird… I think I’m gonna have to bring it down and epoxy the hole or crack .. I bought like that. The end cover edge cracked . I porous in the aluminum, likely coming front the but it’s hard to access. I see a sensor on the right of the end cover, engine side facing to the rear.
How did you keep the engine lifted up? Engine hoist?
Thanks for the video.
My son bought a 2018 Promaster 1500 with 80,000 miles and a bad transmission.
Pulling it this weekend to drop off at the transmission shop for a rebuild.
other than a new flex plate any suggestions on items to change when it goes back in?
At 0:38 seconds what sensor is the harness connected too on the left in the video
How high did you lift the van off the ground?
Maybe 3ft, my lift goes to 11ft 11in
Well done!
@kip amore I'm not sure if you will see this message, but here it goes. I have a 2014 Promaster 1500 with a 3.0 diesel. It seems like the clutch is slipping. If taking off from a slight incline the engine will rev up before it starts to move. Also when its hot outside, the shifts between gears seems delayed then when it goes into gear, it goes into gear harsh. I took it to our local dealer and they are not certain its the clutch, but they gave me a quote for the clutch and flywheel and the parts alone are close to $3000 cdn. Does that sound like it could be the clutch to you?
Could be a pressure issue where it’s not letting full clamping force on the plates
@@realslavmedia5792 thanks for the response. Any idea on how to check the pressure? Test port somewhere?
A shop gave me an estimated of $3500 to rebuilding the transmission. Don't know if that is reasonable?
Go to autozone and get a quote, they have 3-4 year unlimited mileage warranty
I will do that thanks
Wow, all that to remove a transmission, would have drove it into the woods and set the fucking thing on 🔥
How much is the average cost for a transmission rebuilt for a ram promaster 2015?
Waste of time!
This trans pays 3.2 hours haha it takes me about 4 1/2
We are presently stuck in Lincoln City Oregon. Driving thru the mountains yesterday, 2015 Promaster 3500,going up a steep upgrade, the engine rpm started to increase but we rapidly slowed down. Engine running fine but now we are stopped. I opened drivers door, saw oil on the ground, fairly large sheen of oil but not enough to make it slippery. Cant see where oil came from, ( when i say oil im saying ATF) Had to get it towed, we have about 90,000 miles on it. Any suggestions, or where the oil may be coming from. Engine oil is judt fine. Thx
check inbetween the engine and the transmission, it can be the pump seal. maybe a tranny cooler line, not many places for it to leak out of there
@@realslavmedia5792 thanks, update they are replacing the transmission!!!
@@nakedvader it seems like the seals or whatever is only lasting a few years in these things
@@realslavmedia5792 i think there is zero quality control. I hear of too many people breaking down with identical problems!! We are sitting out another weekend waiting,....patiently!!