Great work friend. I did this same job a few years back and could never find someone doing the level tests on a promaster itself. Im gonna double check regularly now as well for peace of mind. Thank you for creating!
The transmission in 2021 Promaster 2500 went bad at 27000 miles. We were half way across the country. The Dodge dealer said no problem, it’s covered under the warranty- leave it here for 4 months and we’ll get to it… The dealer back home said the same thing: about 4 months…. My excellent mechanic back home had different story, parts were not an issue, he only needed 4 days to complete the “better than new” rebuild. The whole problem stems from the piece of junk torque converter that goes bad, burns the fluid and destroys the transmission… The fix included a bittern torque converter, he called it a tow-truck torque converter, new Kevlar clutches, molded pistons etc. It’s is truly better than new. He just changed the fluid and filter at 43,000 miles, ($250.) it was not burnt at all, barely discolored. It’s smooth as butter as we head out for our next cross country trip with confidence! FYI Toyota is now putting their drive train in the exact same chassis in Europe, I just hope they bring it to the US
Awesome - Wonderful the hear that. Makes creating these video worth doing! Thank You for commenting and letting me know. 😃 Once you do this once you realize how easy it is, and it just gets easier. For future reference all my videos are at thefrugalfactor.com/ divided into categories.
Great comprehensive video! I just did essentially the same job on my neighbor's 1998 Plymouth Grand Voyager (41TE transmission). It's hilariously sad that they're still doing the same thing - not giving you a drain plug on the transmission pan. Hers at least has a dipstick for checking the level correctly, but I like your trick with the zip tie. I think you need to warm up the engine and shift between the gears a few times to get the fluid in all the right places before checking the level. I have a larger Gearwrench 1/2 in drive torque wrench, but I have ended up using a Pittsburgh 1/4 in drive torque wrench from Hazard Fraught for jobs like these. It was less than 20 bucks and they test well for being reliable and accurate in their torque settings. That's a lot cheaper than the one you have linked, and probably available at a local store for most people. You just have to convert from ft-lbs to in-lbs, but using 1/4th drive gives you a better "feel" for the very light torque these bolts get. 2 months in and her pan is still not leaking, and I used the cork gasket that came with the aftermarket ACDelco transmission filter, and Mopar ATF+4. There are at least 2 products - ATP AT-203 and Lubegard 61910 - which you can add to inexpensive basic Dexron II/III or Mercon ATF to "convert" it to ATF+4 spec, but the Mopar ATF+4 isn't overly expensive per quart so I think it's worth just buying OEM. I'm not sure if the ProMasters have a built in transmission temp sensor, but you can access that data with an inexpensive ODB II scanner from Wally World (HyperTough HT500 - $50) or Hazard Fraught (Zurich ZR-BT1), both of which use the same Innova app on your phone. If you don't already have a scanner that can read both engine codes and other DTCs from SRS, ABS, etc, then one of those is absolutely worth it. I'm able to get the trans temp for my 2005 Toyota Camry, 2011 Honda Element and Odyssey, plus having access to all those extra DTCs is handy for maintenance and diagnostics. Not all cars have that trans temp feature, of course.
Low Cost OBD dont read the transmission temperature on the promaster. The scanGauge 2 may work amzn.to/3RY3MKa to read the Promaster transmission temperature. I modified a digital meat thermometer, but as I show in the video a laser thermometer will work.
Thank You. You may also be interested in the EASY way to change oil. thefrugalfactor.com/16-maintenance/ That and all the videos are by category at thefrugalfactor.com/
I purchased two Penzoil Full ultra synthetic 5-20. but when they arrived one was 5-30. So I don’t want wait for the exchange so I would add the 5qt of 5-20 anti the rest 5-30 to make up the balance. Sounds like an odd question but I am hearing these vans are oil sensitive. Great videos Kip and the jamboree sessions are a great ending to great content. Thanks
This video is about Transmission service - Don't put motor oil in your transmission! I think you just commented on the wrong video. I believe you watch my Easy On the Road Oil Change video! If that's true, In my opinion (I am not an authorized Promaster Mechanic) I do not believe one quart (actually 29 ounces) of 5-30 would cause any problems. Its what I would do in your situation. Then I would used the remaining 5-30 on my other vehicles 🙂 All the videos by category can be seen at thefrugalfactor.com/
Thank You for the comment - I also have a video showing how to complete on the road oil changes! All the videos divided by category are at thefrugalfactor.com/
Great video Thank you for sharing, at how many miles did you first change the fluid/filter. Then after you have the drain plug you won't change the filter or clean the magnet, again at how many miles will you just change the fluid?
The service shown in this video was done at 37,000 miles. I expect to change the fluid every 30K miles. I may wait until every 60K for the filter. If I am not traveling or at a relatives house, I may do the filter every 30K - its not that difficult. Transmission Fluid and Oil changes should keep the vehicle trouble free🤞
Yes, your correct the top mark. If I said it upside down, sorry - guess its how you look t at it :-) At thefrugalfactor.com/ you can see all the videos divided by category.
Your video is excellent and very helpful. Thank you; I have a question though. For proper fluid level of 4 - 12 mm. Is it measured from bottom of the pan? If so how do you know if the zip tie is reached proper spot, not curved to dipped in deeper? or Is dip stick in certain length from plug tube orifice to hover in fluid?
You can not reach the bottom of the pan there is a metal stop at the bottom that the zip tie will hit. In the video at exactly 6 min zero seconds you can see it. You see the black filter is not removed yet, and the silver metal piece closest to you is the metal dipstick stop. Its right above my left index finger at 6 min 20 seconds. Also, all the videos, with more information can be seen by category at thefrugalfactor.com/ Thank You for watching!
Sorry, for the delayed response. 7-9 fl lbs is what I did. Not much at all. You don't want to strip a bolt, it only into aluminum - to don't overtighten. Wait a day and re-torque and check for leaks. More information and the videos in categories can be see at this site thefrugalfactor.com
Yes, I did the transmission first and I did not have the pump yet. But, also you can't pump all the transmission fluid out. There is a metal stop that keeps you from getting to the bottom of the pan. That's the reason to replace the transmission pan with one that has a drain. That metal stop provides the proper measurement for the correct amount of transmission fluid.
@@FrugalFactor To add - most electric extraction pumps can NOT be used with transmission fluid. Transmission fluid is far more flammable than motor oil. Electric extraction pumps can get quite hot. The electric pump @FrugalFactor recommended for motor oil changes says clearly "Not for gearbox oil or other flammable liquids" and includes a picture of ATF fluid as an unacceptable fluid. That specific pump has several reviews showing it overheating and smoking - which if that heat came into contact with ATF could be, very bad.
Thanks for sharing. I am a new subscriber. I bought the same items after watching your video. How come you used a battery operated pump instead of this hand pump for your oil change? Thanks in advance for your reply.
No, I would not do that. Lots of transmission fluid would be lost. Mark the zip tie/dispstick and store it someplace in the van, it does not get lost or used for something else!
I changed the transmission pan to make it easier in the future to drain and refill the fluid. The new pan has a drain bolt. Even if you do not change the pan you should use a new gasket.
Did you pump the tranny fluid out when it was hot or cold? And the torque specs on the bolts/screws? Also when checking the tranny fluid level you state when it's running & at operating temperature on level ground. Did you have to shift the lever into it's various gear positions; neutral reverse etc...
Started hand pumping when it was hot, but warm by the time I finished - making a video at the same time slows things down. I torqued down the pan bolts 7-9ft pounds, careful bolts are into aluminum, you don't want to strip it out. Waited a day and re-torqued. No leaks. I did shift through the gears, and drove the van so it was at operating temperature. You can see all the van videos, divided into categories at www.TheFrugalFactor.com Thanks for the question. This is easy to do once you have the tools. Do it once and you will find it so easy you will never need to go to a dealer or mechanic. Be sure to not misplace the dipstick your create 🙂
I put 5.75 quarts in, and I'm still only coming up to about 18-20mm when at operating temperature. I just recently put the rest of the 6th quart in. Just a question, is it of concern that it's looking like it'll take more than 6 quarts to get to where it should be on fluid?
If the operating temp was 80-130 degrees (F) 18-20mmm might make sense, but I expect the operating temp to be 165-180(F). I would check your measurement, to be sure its in "mm". The safe range at any temp would be between 12mm and 42mm - that's the middle. When the engine has been cold for 12 hours, do you still have a small amount on the zip tie (4mm). Also, the measurement it taken with the engine running and in park.
@@FrugalFactor Appreciate the response! It definitely should've been between 165-180. I drove it for a good hour or so before I checked it. I'm 100% sure I'm measuring in mm. I've also looked up the table you reference in inches just to confirm. At this point, I'm wondering if it was just very low originally. I know that it's supposed to be 5.5 qts total for a pan drop + filter replacement, but that doesn't include the fluid in the torque converter, right? Edit: I just double checked it after being cold for 12 hours. Engine running, in park, measured immediately and I got about 16-17mm. Sounds like I'm just a tad about the middle fill, so I think I should be good to go! Thanks again for the help!
Check out this site thefrugalfactor.com/ that has all my videos. As you can see from the site, we don't move cargo. But we have not had any problems with the van so far. Still under 50K miles.
If you like this video, check out the Oil Change video. Makes changing oil really easy! th-cam.com/video/xqxEdizru_c/w-d-xo.html All the videos by category can be seen at thefrugalfactor.com/ Thank You for watching, and the comment!
I added the same pan with the drain plug, used a 36” zip tie to measure and was able to insert it well beyond where the stop was previously. So how do I measure now?
You could do that. I always like to be able to return back the the original state. If I put a hole in and drained the fluid, then removed the bolts to find one was stripped or for some reason I could not remove it I might have a problem. I just like to be able to back things up.
It is good to think ahead as to what might possible go wrong during a repair/maintenance and have a backup/backout plan. I would have addressed your concern about being able to removing the pan bolts without issue by loosening and retightening each bolt one at a time before committing to dropping the pan. My suggestion to punch a hole in the pan to drain most of the fluid eliminates the need for a transfer pump and having to clean it afterward. Regarding using external temperature and home made probe, why couldn't read the internal temperature of the transmission using a scan tool? The level of detail and video quality in your video is superior to what typically is posted on TH-cam. Great job. I have subscribed to your channel. @@FrugalFactor
@@StephenGertsch Many people will not have a scan tool, or the correct scan tool that will read transmission temperature. The laser thermometer works good enough - I wanted to test/compare its accuracy, that's why I made the home made tool. For me it was in easy and interesting thing to do 🙂
Why did you replace the oil pan? It looked like it was in perfect condition. My mechanic just changed my transmission fluid and he cleaned and reused the old pan… Is that bad?
Replaced so that I have a drain bolt. The original pan did not have a drain bolt. The drain will make it easy to drain and refill in the future. See all the videos by category at thefrugalfactor.com/ No, its not bad to use the old pan.
Whats the year of your promaster? When I click the amazon link for the transmission fluid amazon says its not compatible with my 2019 Ram Promster 2500
Its a 2018. It says the same thing when I check the Amazon link. But it is the correct fluid. If in doubt give a local dealer a call and see what they charge for it - might be the same price. I used the genuine Mopar Fluid as seen in the link. If that for some reason is not available the key is that it states "Chrysler MS-9602" on the label.
I did not add up the cost. But even if you needed to purchase everything, it would be much less that what the mechanics charge. The full list is in the video description and at thefrugalfactor.com/
Its not that simple. You need to be sure you have the proper level of fluid. You can not remove all the fluid. So, as shown in the video you must measure the temperature of the transmission, and the fluid level. To do a fluid change you should have 6 quarts available. You will not use all 6 quarts.
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Great work friend. I did this same job a few years back and could never find someone doing the level tests on a promaster itself. Im gonna double check regularly now as well for peace of mind. Thank you for creating!
If you like this you may enjoy the oil change video. I made it easy to do on the road. All the videos are sorted by category at thefrugalfactor.com/
Sweet video !
Very thorough and the process was explained perfectly !
Thanks for sharing !
Thank YOU, really appreciate the positive feedback. You can find all my videos divided by category at thefrugalfactor.com/
The transmission in 2021 Promaster 2500 went bad at 27000 miles. We were half way across the country. The Dodge dealer said no problem, it’s covered under the warranty- leave it here for 4 months and we’ll get to it…
The dealer back home said the same thing: about 4 months….
My excellent mechanic back home had different story, parts were not an issue, he only needed 4 days to complete the “better than new” rebuild. The whole problem stems from the piece of junk torque converter that goes bad, burns the fluid and destroys the transmission…
The fix included a bittern torque converter, he called it a tow-truck torque converter, new Kevlar clutches, molded pistons etc. It’s is truly better than new.
He just changed the fluid and filter at 43,000 miles, ($250.) it was not burnt at all, barely discolored. It’s smooth as butter as we head out for our next cross country trip with confidence!
FYI Toyota is now putting their drive train in the exact same chassis in Europe, I just hope they bring it to the US
Do you mind sharing your mechanic information and about how much the cost was for the rebuild?
Wow! I am impressed… excellent video
Thank YOU - All the videos by category are at thefrugalfactor.com/
Sir I think you saved just saved me $200. Thank you.
Awesome - Wonderful the hear that. Makes creating these video worth doing! Thank You for commenting and letting me know. 😃 Once you do this once you realize how easy it is, and it just gets easier. For future reference all my videos are at thefrugalfactor.com/ divided into categories.
Most excellent information.
Thank you very much.
Thank You. See our other videos separated by category at thefrugalfactor.com/
Great comprehensive video! I just did essentially the same job on my neighbor's 1998 Plymouth Grand Voyager (41TE transmission). It's hilariously sad that they're still doing the same thing - not giving you a drain plug on the transmission pan. Hers at least has a dipstick for checking the level correctly, but I like your trick with the zip tie. I think you need to warm up the engine and shift between the gears a few times to get the fluid in all the right places before checking the level.
I have a larger Gearwrench 1/2 in drive torque wrench, but I have ended up using a Pittsburgh 1/4 in drive torque wrench from Hazard Fraught for jobs like these. It was less than 20 bucks and they test well for being reliable and accurate in their torque settings. That's a lot cheaper than the one you have linked, and probably available at a local store for most people. You just have to convert from ft-lbs to in-lbs, but using 1/4th drive gives you a better "feel" for the very light torque these bolts get. 2 months in and her pan is still not leaking, and I used the cork gasket that came with the aftermarket ACDelco transmission filter, and Mopar ATF+4. There are at least 2 products - ATP AT-203 and Lubegard 61910 - which you can add to inexpensive basic Dexron II/III or Mercon ATF to "convert" it to ATF+4 spec, but the Mopar ATF+4 isn't overly expensive per quart so I think it's worth just buying OEM.
I'm not sure if the ProMasters have a built in transmission temp sensor, but you can access that data with an inexpensive ODB II scanner from Wally World (HyperTough HT500 - $50) or Hazard Fraught (Zurich ZR-BT1), both of which use the same Innova app on your phone. If you don't already have a scanner that can read both engine codes and other DTCs from SRS, ABS, etc, then one of those is absolutely worth it. I'm able to get the trans temp for my 2005 Toyota Camry, 2011 Honda Element and Odyssey, plus having access to all those extra DTCs is handy for maintenance and diagnostics. Not all cars have that trans temp feature, of course.
Low Cost OBD dont read the transmission temperature on the promaster. The scanGauge 2 may work amzn.to/3RY3MKa to read the Promaster transmission temperature. I modified a digital meat thermometer, but as I show in the video a laser thermometer will work.
Awesome guide!
Thank You. You may also be interested in the EASY way to change oil. thefrugalfactor.com/16-maintenance/ That and all the videos are by category at thefrugalfactor.com/
I purchased two Penzoil Full ultra synthetic 5-20. but when they arrived one was 5-30. So I don’t want wait for the exchange so I would add the 5qt of 5-20 anti the rest 5-30 to make up the balance. Sounds like an odd question but I am hearing these vans are oil sensitive. Great videos Kip and the jamboree sessions are a great ending to great content.
Thanks
This video is about Transmission service - Don't put motor oil in your transmission! I think you just commented on the wrong video. I believe you watch my Easy On the Road Oil Change video! If that's true, In my opinion (I am not an authorized Promaster Mechanic) I do not believe one quart (actually 29 ounces) of 5-30 would cause any problems. Its what I would do in your situation. Then I would used the remaining 5-30 on my other vehicles 🙂 All the videos by category can be seen at thefrugalfactor.com/
thanks, even though basic still nice to see another do this.
Thanks a bunch
Thank You for the comment - I also have a video showing how to complete on the road oil changes! All the videos divided by category are at thefrugalfactor.com/
What a blessing. You the man.
Thank You All the videos are divided by category at thefrugalfactor.com/
THANK YOU FOR THIS. I plan to do this to mine.
Once you do it yourself, you will always to it yourself! All the vides can be seen at thefrugalfactor.com/ divided by category.
Superbly done
Thank YOU - All the videos by category are at thefrugalfactor.com/
Great video Thank you for sharing, at how many miles did you first change the fluid/filter. Then after you have the drain plug you won't change the filter or clean the magnet, again at how many miles will you just change the fluid?
The service shown in this video was done at 37,000 miles. I expect to change the fluid every 30K miles. I may wait until every 60K for the filter. If I am not traveling or at a relatives house, I may do the filter every 30K - its not that difficult. Transmission Fluid and Oil changes should keep the vehicle trouble free🤞
@@FrugalFactor thank you, I guess I will change my transmission oil soon . A minivan transmission in a heavy truck should be pampered.
Thank you for the video.
You're welcome. Happy to know it helped!
Maybe I'm crazy, but shouldn't the top mark on the dipstick you made be for the fluid when hot? You say the opposite, that it's the cold mark.
Yes, your correct the top mark. If I said it upside down, sorry - guess its how you look t at it :-) At thefrugalfactor.com/ you can see all the videos divided by category.
Smart dude thanks
Happy to help
Best video 👍🏼
Thank You. I keep all the video's sorted by category at thefrugalfactor.com/
Great man thanks !
Your welcome. All the videos are shown by category at thefrugalfactor.com/
Your video is excellent and very helpful. Thank you; I have a question though. For proper fluid level of 4 - 12 mm. Is it measured from bottom of the pan? If so how do you know if the zip tie is reached proper spot, not curved to dipped in deeper? or Is dip stick in certain length from plug tube orifice to hover in fluid?
You can not reach the bottom of the pan there is a metal stop at the bottom that the zip tie will hit. In the video at exactly 6 min zero seconds you can see it. You see the black filter is not removed yet, and the silver metal piece closest to you is the metal dipstick stop. Its right above my left index finger at 6 min 20 seconds. Also, all the videos, with more information can be seen by category at thefrugalfactor.com/ Thank You for watching!
Ver nice,thank you!
Hope it helped. Thanks for the comment and watching. All the videos are divided by category at thefrugalfactor.com/
Great Video !! I may have missed it but what is the torque on the transmission pan bolts?
Sorry, for the delayed response. 7-9 fl lbs is what I did. Not much at all. You don't want to strip a bolt, it only into aluminum - to don't overtighten. Wait a day and re-torque and check for leaks. More information and the videos in categories can be see at this site thefrugalfactor.com
Thank you @@FrugalFactor
Is there a reason you did not use the electric pump that you showed in your oil change video to drain the transmission fluid out?
Yes, I did the transmission first and I did not have the pump yet. But, also you can't pump all the transmission fluid out. There is a metal stop that keeps you from getting to the bottom of the pan. That's the reason to replace the transmission pan with one that has a drain. That metal stop provides the proper measurement for the correct amount of transmission fluid.
@@FrugalFactor To add - most electric extraction pumps can NOT be used with transmission fluid. Transmission fluid is far more flammable than motor oil. Electric extraction pumps can get quite hot. The electric pump @FrugalFactor recommended for motor oil changes says clearly "Not for gearbox oil or other flammable liquids" and includes a picture of ATF fluid as an unacceptable fluid. That specific pump has several reviews showing it overheating and smoking - which if that heat came into contact with ATF could be, very bad.
Thanks for sharing. I am a new subscriber. I bought the same items after watching your video.
How come you used a battery operated pump instead of this hand pump for your oil change?
Thanks in advance for your reply.
@@wdj935 The electric pump is faster, much less work. I set it up and let the electric pump do the work 🙂
@@FrugalFactor Thanks. will you be using the electric pump for your transmission services as well?
Why didn't you use a silicone sealant or any gasket sealant?
Can the purchased dipstick be left in the port all the time ?
No, I would not do that. Lots of transmission fluid would be lost. Mark the zip tie/dispstick and store it someplace in the van, it does not get lost or used for something else!
Would the diesel promaster be the same transmission
I do not know the answer, sorry.
Excelente video, question; do I need to change the oil pan and gasket too? I going to change the fluid on my Ram Promaster
I changed the transmission pan to make it easier in the future to drain and refill the fluid. The new pan has a drain bolt. Even if you do not change the pan you should use a new gasket.
Thank you, I will change it then👌🏻
Did you pump the tranny fluid out when it was hot or cold? And the torque specs on the bolts/screws? Also when checking the tranny fluid level you state when it's running & at operating temperature on level ground. Did you have to shift the lever into it's various gear positions; neutral reverse etc...
Started hand pumping when it was hot, but warm by the time I finished - making a video at the same time slows things down. I torqued down the pan bolts 7-9ft pounds, careful bolts are into aluminum, you don't want to strip it out. Waited a day and re-torqued. No leaks. I did shift through the gears, and drove the van so it was at operating temperature. You can see all the van videos, divided into categories at www.TheFrugalFactor.com Thanks for the question. This is easy to do once you have the tools. Do it once and you will find it so easy you will never need to go to a dealer or mechanic. Be sure to not misplace the dipstick your create 🙂
I put 5.75 quarts in, and I'm still only coming up to about 18-20mm when at operating temperature. I just recently put the rest of the 6th quart in. Just a question, is it of concern that it's looking like it'll take more than 6 quarts to get to where it should be on fluid?
If the operating temp was 80-130 degrees (F) 18-20mmm might make sense, but I expect the operating temp to be 165-180(F). I would check your measurement, to be sure its in "mm". The safe range at any temp would be between 12mm and 42mm - that's the middle. When the engine has been cold for 12 hours, do you still have a small amount on the zip tie (4mm). Also, the measurement it taken with the engine running and in park.
@@FrugalFactor Appreciate the response!
It definitely should've been between 165-180. I drove it for a good hour or so before I checked it. I'm 100% sure I'm measuring in mm. I've also looked up the table you reference in inches just to confirm.
At this point, I'm wondering if it was just very low originally. I know that it's supposed to be 5.5 qts total for a pan drop + filter replacement, but that doesn't include the fluid in the torque converter, right?
Edit: I just double checked it after being cold for 12 hours. Engine running, in park, measured immediately and I got about 16-17mm. Sounds like I'm just a tad about the middle fill, so I think I should be good to go!
Thanks again for the help!
Has this vehicle been reliable for you? looking at one for expediting cargo?
Check out this site thefrugalfactor.com/ that has all my videos. As you can see from the site, we don't move cargo. But we have not had any problems with the van so far. Still under 50K miles.
@@FrugalFactor sounds good. I’ll check out the video.
Great!
If you like this video, check out the Oil Change video. Makes changing oil really easy! th-cam.com/video/xqxEdizru_c/w-d-xo.html All the videos by category can be seen at thefrugalfactor.com/ Thank You for watching, and the comment!
I added the same pan with the drain plug, used a 36” zip tie to measure and was able to insert it well beyond where the stop was previously. So how do I measure now?
When you replace the pan, you do not replace the stop,, therefore your zip tie should be ending at the same spot it did before.
Since you are replacing the original pan with one with a drain plug, why not drain the old fluid by punching a hole in the bottom of the pan?
You could do that. I always like to be able to return back the the original state. If I put a hole in and drained the fluid, then removed the bolts to find one was stripped or for some reason I could not remove it I might have a problem. I just like to be able to back things up.
It is good to think ahead as to what might possible go wrong during a repair/maintenance and have a backup/backout plan. I would have addressed your concern about being able to removing the pan bolts without issue by loosening and retightening each bolt one at a time before committing to dropping the pan. My suggestion to punch a hole in the pan to drain most of the fluid eliminates the need for a transfer pump and having to clean it afterward.
Regarding using external temperature and home made probe, why couldn't read the internal temperature of the transmission using a scan tool?
The level of detail and video quality in your video is superior to what typically is posted on TH-cam. Great job. I have subscribed to your channel. @@FrugalFactor
@@StephenGertsch Many people will not have a scan tool, or the correct scan tool that will read transmission temperature. The laser thermometer works good enough - I wanted to test/compare its accuracy, that's why I made the home made tool. For me it was in easy and interesting thing to do 🙂
Can you do my Promaster 1500?
I am in Orange County
Sorry, no - I don't have the time.
@@FrugalFactor 😕
Why did you replace the oil pan? It looked like it was in perfect condition. My mechanic just changed my transmission fluid and he cleaned and reused the old pan… Is that bad?
Replaced so that I have a drain bolt. The original pan did not have a drain bolt. The drain will make it easy to drain and refill in the future. See all the videos by category at thefrugalfactor.com/ No, its not bad to use the old pan.
Because he wanted the one with the drain plug
What model and engine is this promaster?
3.6L Pentastar® V6 All the videos are shown by category at thefrugalfactor.com/
Whats the year of your promaster? When I click the amazon link for the transmission fluid amazon says its not compatible with my 2019 Ram Promster 2500
neither does the filter however the pan is compatible
Its a 2018. It says the same thing when I check the Amazon link. But it is the correct fluid. If in doubt give a local dealer a call and see what they charge for it - might be the same price. I used the genuine Mopar Fluid as seen in the link. If that for some reason is not available the key is that it states "Chrysler MS-9602" on the label.
@@FrugalFactor Got it. Thanks for info!
How much for all the tools and parts?
I did not add up the cost. But even if you needed to purchase everything, it would be much less that what the mechanics charge. The full list is in the video description and at thefrugalfactor.com/
@@FrugalFactor thank you 🙏
Hi, how often do you recommend changing the transmission oil?
Whats the capacity of atf on dodge promaster 3500?
Its not that simple. You need to be sure you have the proper level of fluid. You can not remove all the fluid. So, as shown in the video you must measure the temperature of the transmission, and the fluid level. To do a fluid change you should have 6 quarts available. You will not use all 6 quarts.