crazy glue + baking soda. super strong and cures instantly and sands down nicely. I used this process to repair the body plastics on my street bike and has held up for well over a year now.
Someone may have already said something, but any Stormy from any costume group will tell you, you are supposed to almost turn the helmet to 90° and then slide your head in. Works for them, it might work for you? Love this video, I've just received the raw print for my own trooper helmet and this was a nice chilled way to ease into the project!
Fun fact! The helmets in A New Hope have two different models. The Hero model and the Background model. The Hero helmets have a larger "smile" and had the teeth highlighted with gray, while the background helmets had smaller smiles and where painted black. Empire strikes back and return of the jedi later just paints the teeth all black.
@make432 double fun fact. Ever notice how in Return of the Jedi how some helmets look thinner than others? It's because the mold failed on them while they were making the helmets, resulting in a thinner final product
Fun fact: the Hero helmets have the narrower frown while the Stunt helmets frowns are wider. Both are painted grey. They weren't changed to black until ESB....
wrong, the hero troopers in ANH had the smaller frown and the stunt helmets had the larger frown. All ANH helmets were painted gray, including the stunt helmets. About a dozen of the same original helmets from ANH were reused and repainted for ESB, so that's when the frowns were painted black. Decals were also added, instead of keeping the hand painted details. By the time RoTJ came around, they had to create new helmets, which is when the mold failed and created a squished helmet appearance.
I would've left the front grille detachable with magnets. There's a star wars novel called "Death Troopers" where stormtroopers and imperial officers are turned into zombies from an unknown virus. The troopers' helmets have the front grille and chin section ripped out so the zombies can feed
Absolutely love this! Your guys’ video style is so comfortable and professional, and the build quality is amazing. So entry friendly. Noticed you guys haven’t been around in a while, hope to see a return soon!
Love the pace, clear explanation, fun and light style! You can use these helmets to stay off camera, daft punk style ! Some tips from my experience: bonding with a soldering iron and 3d pen can be faster, stronger, and less messy than coating (with eg. Epoxy), unless you use the expoxy with gauze. Only downside, the pla is less sandable.
I've been a member of my local 501st detachment for a few years. This looks just as nice if not better than the "screen accurate" kits we work with. Spectacular work.
Use a brush with the color you taped over, white in your case. The paint is more likely to build up in those corners and fill the gaps in the tape. Leaves a nice sharp line ever time.
next time after u are done painting take off the tape before it dries so paint do dry up with the tape and crack, painters trick :) it will be a smoother finish, also great job!
Hey, I know this video is old but you should wear gloves and a respirator when spaying the superglue activator. My dad worked in the movie industry as a model maker in the 80s and 90s and he used that stuff all the time spraying it on his hands and breathing it in. He died of bladder cancer in 2015 at the age of 47. Do not fuck around with that stuff soaking into your skin or any of the particles and fumes you might inhale. Wear a respirator when painting and sanding on top of being in a well ventilated area.
Just a tip to get sharper edges on masked parts: add a coat of the base paint (white) similar to how you added the clear coat and if possible, remove the masking while the paint is wet.
this was an amazing tutorial. maybe i went a little overboard but i made a multi part mask last halloween and i went with 3d gloop to bond the parts at the edges and then also plastic welded the seams on the interior followed by a pass of soldering iron welding. much more difficult on a project like yours due to shape but ive never had luck with epoxy.
Your process would 100% make a more solid final prop - we design ours for display so we don't need to be as secure - but for future projects we might try out the plastic welding!
ive painted a lot of things, try removing your masking whilst your paint is still wet. This will help reduce tearing and uneven lines in your final finish
Looks dope AF, but I think you should add some more grey weathering like the remnant Stormtroopers. I know less is more, but a lil more would really make it stand out.
is the newer neptune 3 pro /SOVL 01 pro enough for this kinda work, budget not the biggest issue, prob have 600$ for a 3d printer. or sould i look at like the cut down bamboo lab?
This is something we are not the best at planning - but could be a topic we cover in a future video - here is a useful video though! th-cam.com/video/CWFcerVi6Ug/w-d-xo.html
Great video. I'm more of the clean and tidy style. Yours turned out good looking at the end as well. Just not my style. Last, want to say good tip on the laying a clear coat down then the black.
Question, why did you not leave the side tear drops blank, like the originals and the rear ones too?? and the tube stripes, you could have left them all blank and got the stickers and then hand painted the tube stripes french royal blue like the originals.
Our helmet is definitely not screen accurate, but we hope we created something that fits the general look and feel - It would be really fun to make a 100% screen accurate version in the future!
We actually use the default setting in prusa slicer - however if you are trying to troubleshoot issues with your print you can check out this excellent guide - all3dp.com/2/gaps-in-3d-print-top-layer-gaps-between-lines/
I horrible mix of found (some literally on the street), clearance bin, pre-owned and donated brushes. At some point I will upgrade my collection - i'll be sure to share then!
I like the model and the build. I guess I would have used some cloth or bridging agent with the 5 min epoxy seams. But the music is killing me........ especially the midi
It is surprising how un-symmetrical the original designs were and how "off " they look when made symmetrical. Great catch - here is a great video that talks a little about it - th-cam.com/video/vUzd50rxlF4/w-d-xo.html
@@make432 yes, that asymmetrical helmet is so ingrained in my mind, that when I see the symmetrical one, not only is it easy to spot, but it looks “off” to me. I prefer the hand sculpted original. I did two resin cast helmets cast from an original screen used helmet. One I left exactly as it was: Asymmetrical, in all it’s wonky glory, and the other I made a little more symmetrical with apoxie sculpt. It still maintains the “sourced from an original,” but is a little more even looking.
Here is a helpful hint from my files of “I figured this out for myself” from years of working with resin kits. When working with resin, superglue and sand paper are your friends. You can use superglue in a gap or “air bubble indentation” and sand over the spot. The sandpaper will make resin dust which will fill the gap or hole by bonding with the superglue. you can repeat the process for deeper holes until smooth and the defect disappears.
Thanks for watching! What projects would you like to see in the future?
DO3D have a Samus Aran Helmet, that would be amazing to see!
Amazing tutorial, thanks! Clone Trooper Phase I Helmet :D
That’s a good question 🤔 . Anything you guys can do would be Amazing. I’m sure we would ALL enjoy it. 👍👍
You may not know it, but I would like to see Kamen Rider mask.
I don't like sanding. It's coarse, and rough, and irritating, and it gets everywhere.
😂
*uncontrolable wheezing intensifies*
This video was so proffesional I thought this channel would have already had at least a million subscribers.
thank you so much, and thanks for watching!
crazy glue + baking soda. super strong and cures instantly and sands down nicely. I used this process to repair the body plastics on my street bike and has held up for well over a year now.
Thanks for the tip!
What's the process for that? Glue first then baking soda? I have so many builds I could use this on...
glue fist because the arm and hammer baking soda will harden the glue instantly@@Shooter_FPV
Yo those lofi Star Wars remakes are insane I was vibing out good mood setter good work looks great
Someone may have already said something, but any Stormy from any costume group will tell you, you are supposed to almost turn the helmet to 90° and then slide your head in. Works for them, it might work for you?
Love this video, I've just received the raw print for my own trooper helmet and this was a nice chilled way to ease into the project!
Fun fact! The helmets in A New Hope have two different models. The Hero model and the Background model. The Hero helmets have a larger "smile" and had the teeth highlighted with gray, while the background helmets had smaller smiles and where painted black. Empire strikes back and return of the jedi later just paints the teeth all black.
Very interesting, thanks for sharing!
@make432 double fun fact. Ever notice how in Return of the Jedi how some helmets look thinner than others? It's because the mold failed on them while they were making the helmets, resulting in a thinner final product
Fun fact: the Hero helmets have the narrower frown while the Stunt helmets frowns are wider. Both are painted grey. They weren't changed to black until ESB....
There literally 9 versions of the original helmets. I have a 501st validated set of armor I built and went through the process to get my TK number.
wrong, the hero troopers in ANH had the smaller frown and the stunt helmets had the larger frown. All ANH helmets were painted gray, including the stunt helmets. About a dozen of the same original helmets from ANH were reused and repainted for ESB, so that's when the frowns were painted black. Decals were also added, instead of keeping the hand painted details. By the time RoTJ came around, they had to create new helmets, which is when the mold failed and created a squished helmet appearance.
I really envy your art and patience. I congratulate you. BR, Manuel
Love that elevator muzak!
🎶 😎 🎶
I would've left the front grille detachable with magnets. There's a star wars novel called "Death Troopers" where stormtroopers and imperial officers are turned into zombies from an unknown virus. The troopers' helmets have the front grille and chin section ripped out so the zombies can feed
Whoa! That is awesome - i think I need to make time to make this as a costume!
Absolutely love this! Your guys’ video style is so comfortable and professional, and the build quality is amazing. So entry friendly. Noticed you guys haven’t been around in a while, hope to see a return soon!
Thank you so much!!
A word to the wise, if you want to use CA glue on clear parts, coat both sides in Johnsons Kleer floor polish first. It stops it fogging up
Oh great tip, we will have to try it out next time!
You could print hdpe spreaders for the superglue, it’s a bit bad for warping but a long flat spreader should be ok.
Thanks for the tip, we will have to try that out!
good job
Thanks!
A really strong inner bond can be achieved with super glue / crazy glue and cotton wool. Small layers over joins. Really strong..
Ohh! Great tip, we are working on some Helldivers Armor right now and that would work great to add some rigidity! Thanks!
This is soooo F-in Rad!! Great job on the details!!! Absolutely love this🔥
Thanks so much!!
Glad to see you are getting traction. Keep up the amazing builds!
Appreciate the support!!
Im about to do my own!!
Fantastic!
Amazing build !
Thank you!
Nicely done Gentleman 👍👍
Thank you, thank you
@@make432 you are very welcome 🙏🏼
Very nice work!👍👍👍
This channel deserves more subscribers, great job
Thank you so much!
This video is relevant to my interests! Thank you
Love the pace, clear explanation, fun and light style! You can use these helmets to stay off camera, daft punk style !
Some tips from my experience: bonding with a soldering iron and 3d pen can be faster, stronger, and less messy than coating (with eg. Epoxy), unless you use the expoxy with gauze. Only downside, the pla is less sandable.
I've been a member of my local 501st detachment for a few years. This looks just as nice if not better than the "screen accurate" kits we work with. Spectacular work.
Really?
Wow! Thanks!
pretty cool. I don't think id have added chipping to the rubber gasket part but, still a cool build.
Great job
Thanks!
This made me actually want to make one, and kinda believe I could.
Go for it - we'd love to see the results!
I modeled and printed one all in one piece I haven't painted it yet though because I one to print it again, slightly bigger.
Crazy DJ vibes 7:30 hahahahaha
wow, it is so amazing and very cool what you do.
Thank you very much!
Use a brush with the color you taped over, white in your case. The paint is more likely to build up in those corners and fill the gaps in the tape. Leaves a nice sharp line ever time.
OH great tip, thanks!
Amazing job 👏
Thank you so much!
Honestly that helmet might fit. It’s a certain way to put it. 😉 Great build!
Unfortunately I tried the 90 degree turn method... I just have a big head haha
next time after u are done painting take off the tape before it dries so paint do dry up with the tape and crack, painters trick :) it will be a smoother finish, also great job!
Thanks, and thank you for the tip!
Amazing!!! You should make a Daft Punk helmet
That is a dream of ours!
I loved this video, amazing value and quality editing and filming, keep up the good work, you ve got a new subscriber :)
Thank you so much!
That was a lot of support material. Also the holes in the back of the helmet are for magnets.
Hey, I know this video is old but you should wear gloves and a respirator when spaying the superglue activator. My dad worked in the movie industry as a model maker in the 80s and 90s and he used that stuff all the time spraying it on his hands and breathing it in. He died of bladder cancer in 2015 at the age of 47. Do not fuck around with that stuff soaking into your skin or any of the particles and fumes you might inhale. Wear a respirator when painting and sanding on top of being in a well ventilated area.
Very nice build!
Where can I find your background music??
Thanks, you check out the music here - th-cam.com/channels/sUTIOWt25_9bXBV7A9aepQ.html
Just a tip to get sharper edges on masked parts: add a coat of the base paint (white) similar to how you added the clear coat and if possible, remove the masking while the paint is wet.
Thanks! We have to try that next time!
That amazing work you did making that stormtrooper helmet 🥳🥳 I have a question I'm trying to learn how to make helmets which 3D printer you recommend?
Professional!🏅🏅🏆🏆🏆🏆
awesome build. It came out really smooth
Thanks so much! The sanding really paid off (thanks to David haha)
SW approved!
Sick build guys always a good day when you post 👍
Great to hear 😁
this was an amazing tutorial. maybe i went a little overboard but i made a multi part mask last halloween and i went with 3d gloop to bond the parts at the edges and then also plastic welded the seams on the interior followed by a pass of soldering iron welding. much more difficult on a project like yours due to shape but ive never had luck with epoxy.
Your process would 100% make a more solid final prop - we design ours for display so we don't need to be as secure - but for future projects we might try out the plastic welding!
ive painted a lot of things, try removing your masking whilst your paint is still wet. This will help reduce tearing and uneven lines in your final finish
Good to know, thanks for the advice!
which 3d printer yould you recommend to beginners?
We started off with the ender 3 and it was very easy to learn on ( and cheap! )
Great build. Thank you for sharing, would you do a tie fighter pilot?
That is a great idea, we will add it to the VERY long list haha
Is there a possibility you might begin listing the SOFTWARE you used to model this and any item? I would really like to know which is which.
love it!
Thanks!
The background music!
Looks dope AF, but I think you should add some more grey weathering like the remnant Stormtroopers. I know less is more, but a lil more would really make it stand out.
Yeah, it was hard to keep this as "clean" as it is. We are with you, the more weathering the better!
would you still get good results printing detailed parts on a normal 3d printer rather than a resin printer?
What JB well did y’all use??
I have spent months getting used to ABS printing. I did this after printing and sanding in pla once. I feel your pain on this one.
Honestly, we need to just switch to ABS... I'm just stubborn haha.
@@make432 It's a whole different set of problems my friend. Printing is more trouble at the start but sanding and finishing is way easier.
do you have any guides or information on the spray booth?
We followed Bill Duran's build from Punished Props Academy - www.punishedprops.com/2019/03/18/custom-spray-booth/
3 -D print the full armour in copper (the metal).
🤩 that would be amazing... and expensive haha. Cool idea though, maybe we could do a faux copper finish?
is the newer neptune 3 pro /SOVL 01 pro enough for this kinda work, budget not the biggest issue, prob have 600$ for a 3d printer. or sould i look at like the cut down bamboo lab?
Hmm not too sure on other printers. Our only experience is with the Prusa i3 Mk3 and the Ender 3
Perhaps it is a stupid question... how can i print this kind of helmet to fit on my head ? I wish to create a stormtrooper cosplay
This is something we are not the best at planning - but could be a topic we cover in a future video - here is a useful video though!
th-cam.com/video/CWFcerVi6Ug/w-d-xo.html
Great video. I'm more of the clean and tidy style. Yours turned out good looking at the end as well. Just not my style. Last, want to say good tip on the laying a clear coat down then the black.
I know this is an old video but are these models supported?
They are not pre-supported but we did print with supports where needed - nothing major though.
Question, why did you not leave the side tear drops blank, like the originals and the rear ones too?? and the tube stripes, you could have left them all blank and got the stickers and then hand painted the tube stripes french royal blue like the originals.
Our helmet is definitely not screen accurate, but we hope we created something that fits the general look and feel - It would be really fun to make a 100% screen accurate version in the future!
I love your videos and work, I have learned a lot about post processing for my own prints, thanks. ✨
We're very happy to hear that :)
So if you have a big enough 3D printer you wont have to print it in so many small pieces?
Yep! We only broke ours down to fit on our printer!
what are your setting for your printer i keep getting gaps in my prints
We actually use the default setting in prusa slicer - however if you are trying to troubleshoot issues with your print you can check out this excellent guide - all3dp.com/2/gaps-in-3d-print-top-layer-gaps-between-lines/
@@make432 alr thank you
Those ear piece gaps, especially the right side.
You also forgot to paint the ear amps grey.
We also forgot the vents in the back
@@make432 Well shit lol
Did you just rinse it in the sink after priming/sanding?
We wiped it down with a damp rag, PLA does like to absorb water to it is best to avoid too much water!
what size nozzle did you use to print that?
0.4mm nozzle
Great job! Love all these videos
Thank you! 🙏
What are those paint brushes your using for the small hand painted details?
What paint brushes do you use?
I horrible mix of found (some literally on the street), clearance bin, pre-owned and donated brushes. At some point I will upgrade my collection - i'll be sure to share then!
Love the production quality of these videos! Can you do some 3d printed Warhammer Terrain next?
Thank you!! Oooh that could be fun 🧐
how much fillament went in support
far to much - we are getting better at optimizing support - especially with new organic tree supports more easily available!
how much infill did you set the slicer for?
we usually print with about 15-20% infill
@@make432 Thank you
Hello my name is kevin and I'm from Colchester Essex and I'm a massive starwars fan
Hello Kevin thanks for the comment!
Good Job. But never use Frogtape :) It's the worst tape i ever used. When you do it more than once, use a small sandblaster.
Thanks for the tip!
Idk if this is true but I heard somewhere that some helmet models (stormtrooper) have to be put in side ways then slide in place
Yes, that is the correct way to put it on!
great video, just got a extra sub
Welcome aboard!
I like the model and the build. I guess I would have used some cloth or bridging agent with the 5 min epoxy seams. But the music is killing me........ especially the midi
Thanks for the tip - would definitely add more strength to the bonds - 🎶 😎 🎶
Hey could you do this but with FDM printing?
Yes, we actually printed ours using our FDM printer.
@@make432Yeah, i realized that after i commented.😂
what layer height did you guys use?
We usually print at .2mm
How thick did u use for the helmet?
We printed the parts with just 3 perimeters and 15% infill
@@make432 thank you so much for the answer!
how do you fix that gap in the ear part
We ended up leaving the gap, but could easily fill it with some spot putty - our helmets are more for display so you really don't see the back haha
Shouldn't thenlensnhave a green tint?
Yes, unfortunately this is all we were able to get!
I hope the helmet doesn't have a bad transmitter
Awesome build though
ehh we can it sell it to some Jawas if it does. Thanks!
@@make432 please send it to me.....I better check it out.....I wondered why TK421 wasn't at his post
If it were me, I probably print and paint the eyebrow individually.
Yeah that would have made things easier haha
ooorr you can just get a cr-10 and do it one shot :) i have tried this way and fail to many times.
Yes, the tiling a helmet together is getting tedious. A large printer would be a dream!
This is a stylized version of the helmet. It’s been made symmetrical.
It is surprising how un-symmetrical the original designs were and how "off " they look when made symmetrical. Great catch - here is a great video that talks a little about it - th-cam.com/video/vUzd50rxlF4/w-d-xo.html
@@make432 yes, that asymmetrical helmet is so ingrained in my mind, that when I see the symmetrical
one, not only is it easy to spot, but it looks “off” to me. I prefer the hand sculpted original. I did two resin cast
helmets cast from an original screen used helmet. One I left exactly as it was: Asymmetrical, in all it’s wonky glory, and the other I made a little more symmetrical with apoxie sculpt. It still maintains the “sourced from an original,” but is a little more even looking.
Here is a helpful hint from my files of “I figured this out for myself” from years of working with resin kits.
When working with resin, superglue and sand paper are your friends. You can use superglue in a gap or “air bubble indentation” and sand over the spot. The sandpaper will make resin dust which will fill the gap or hole by bonding with the superglue. you can repeat the process for deeper holes until smooth and the defect disappears.
Thanks for sharing we will have to give this a try next time!
Hermoso te quedo el casco !
Thank you!
How long did this take to build and paint? Thanks
Good question, we are terrible at keeping track of time - our best guess 60-80 hours of work
Lets Gooooo another Video
Aww yeahhh 🤘
i cant stop staring at the bleed on the brow, you couldnt touch that up a little?
we might have gone back after filming to touch the brow up ;)
good soldiers follow orders!
The 3d printed helmets are generally never that good, but this one is the best I've seen so far.
Thank you so much, it's all in the sanding haha
u put stormtrooper helmet on sideways and your head must be 28¨ that look like to fit at least 26¨ 🤔
Unfortunately the 90 degree turn method does not work - my head must be too big haha
4:24
one piece
He listed everything but mine😂