Just for reference. I made the entire Helldivers 2 armor with a senator gun. I spend about $60 on spools (with a good bit of left overs) and about another $40 in UV resing, sanding paper, and paints. just the armor for about $100 is CRAZY
Nice! I got started on an ender 3 for $120 with a roll of filament included. I do wish I had saved up and got the Ender 3 V3 KE though for only $100 more. It prints WAY faster and can print Nylon and a lot of other higher temperature filaments. (The V3 KE was on sale just after I bought my Ender 3 for $220). I have been very happy with my Ender 3 though. After the initial Nightmare of 30 days of fixing and upgrading it, it has printed very well with excellent quality).
Using a 3D printer is like buying almost anything else. The more you invest the less hassles you typically have but that doesn't mean you can't accomplish the same thing on less expensive items. It's a matter of do you want to invest your money or your time in a project.
That isn't really true anymore. Yes the more expensive machines may have more convenient features but most people won't use them. If you just want to print basic materials like PLA then a cheap A1 is probably a better choice than the X1C which is made for more advanced materials. Cheap machines are very good now, almost plug and play, the only thing you might give up is build plate size but the A1 which has the same build volume as the X1C and it is a pretty decent build volume for consumer printers so you aren't even giving up build volume anymore as long as you don't go for the absolute cheapest.
I got a crappy Ender 3 for $100.00 and I couldn't even begin to name all the things I've made/built and fixed with it. My Ender 3 prints very good quality. I did have a nightmare situation when I first got it though with all the known issues that Ender refuses to fix (and then some)... but after getting it up and running right, it's been running for months without any problems and I've printed 100s of things on it. I've probably printed 300-400 prototypes alone this year... and that's not including finished pieces, which was probably at least 50 or so.
Most definitely - I got a Kobra 2 neo a year ago because i was blown away there were printers on sale for $150 and while it did take me a few hours to get proper bed adhesion, I got over 100 hours of successful prints. But all the tinkering with changing filament types it was hours of tinkering to get a good print after going from PLA to PETG to the point i just didnt want to deal with it anymore. Well I saw the sale from Bambu and snagged a p1s and have been blown away completely. Ive only had it for 2 weeks now but I have already had over 100 hours of successful prints with almost zero issues. The better machine just allowed me to do better things with the printer without having to think if the first few layers will extrude properly.
@@MrGigs94 I bought an Ender 3 and it took me a month and more money to get it working right. I had every known issue that people ever run into with them and then some even more bad things on top of them. Bed too loose, bed springs not long enough, bed too far from print head to be able to zero, bed losing zero constantly, because the wheels turn while printing, Had to print a new z-stop, had to get a dual axis, etc... etc... etc... etc... It was a real pain in the ass. The Ender V3 KE came out just after I got mine too. Wish I would have waited and got one of them when they were on sale for $200. Never thought to buy from another company than Ender, because I just don't (didn't) really know what I was getting with all the others. I probably would have been better off getting the Kobra 2 Neo for $50 more. At the time though, I literally didn't have an extra $50 to spend, so I was kind of stuck with very few options.
I did a full set of shock trooper clone armor in time for May 4th this year on a Elegoo Neptune 3 Pro starting with ZERO experience. Took 3 months of non stop printing and maybe $300 in filament and paint supplies. Worth every minute seeing that suit complete in the mirror!
Painting Tip: brush paint over your masking tape seams with your base color before you spray and you will get super crisp lines with no drips under your tape.
to people asking about EU brands about "Bondo" etc, get the brand "Motip" they usually sell all those variants under that name over here in Europe. (including putties etc) Motip and Duplicolor (the brand of the steel rattlecan in this video), fused together in 1998 into the MOTIP DUPLI group, so if your looking for stuff, just include MOTIP in your search query. example: Motip putty / spot putty / 1k finishing putty
I just got my A1 mini in the mail yesterday and printed out a bunch of stuff and it’s really nice. I do have an elegoo three max. So I don’t need to print my helmets on it, but it is a nice printer from the little time. I’ve had it and it has reallygood print quality.
I bought a Bambu P1S in October. Spent $600 on it. Bambu started their black Friday sale a few weeks later and they gave me a $50 credit when I asked. I put that towards an AMS. Also, I tried printing a few free STL cosplay files and they were really horrible. I ended up buying a file from you guys so it wouldn't suck. I should go check my printer now to see how it's going.
@@matthewkelly9012I bought a Westar 35 STL from them. I started by printing the grip and it turned out really nice. The rest of the parts are printing now. I tried a free one from Makerlab and I guess you get what you pay for. It was a waste of PETG.
@@matthewkelly9012I bought a Bo Katan Westar 35 STL. I started by printing the grip and it turned out really well. The rest of the parts are printing now. I tried a free one from Bambu and it just was a waste of PETG. I guess you get what you pay for.
This is great! Awhile back, I did a Shakespeare bust - a prop from the old Batman show - and through experimentation I did a lot of what you suggested. I used the 3D Pen, glue, filler, UV resin. It worked, though the sanding took a looong time - I learned a lot through your video as well - ways to do things better. Thanks!
I can't believe people say that, my first printer was 300 bucks and I get filament for around 16.99 for 1kg, it's actually one of the cheaper hobbies out there
@ well no argument that’s the hard part, since that first CR10 I have bought 4 or 5 filament printers and 4 resin printers so my wife would probably argue that it’s not a cheap hobby
Bought a Creality Ender 3 Pro off eBay a couple of months ago for like £100. Aside from the constant reconfiguring, bed levelling, tinkering, and other materials which came with a few costs (mostly due to my own inexperience), I have been loving the experience. I gather that by today's standards the Ender 3 is now a little outdated, but it has a large community and lots of modification options. Not ideal for a 'plug in and play' experience, but for approx. £150 all in, it has been a great introduction into the world of 3D printing. (btw also joined a Patreon and received a commercial licence to sell a few prints, and have subsequently made back all of my upfront investment!!)
A lot of us started on the Ender 3 Pro! I think those skills are really valuable. Is it a pain? Yeah, a little- especially when you're diving into Marlin or recoding your printer's config, but I'm glad I slugged it out in the trenches of early 3D Printing.
@@tyler_stab Exactly, it's really hell in the beginning, but they're invaluable skill that transfert on new machine. I finally bought a K1 max 2month ago, and all that tinkering on the ender 3 allowed me to dials that thing down perfectly.
Did you buy it new or used? If it was used then £100 is a lot unless it came with upgrades. I started on the ender 3 Pro too but I now have an X1C. It is just so much easier with newer and more modern printers, even the bambu A series. I do not regret the ender 3 though, it was fun and I learned a lot but if your primary goal is to use the printer as a tool rather than a project in itself then I would recommend a more modern printer.
@@conorstewart2214 I would rather buy a used one for $100 all set up and running with a Sprite Extruder than to buy a new one for $100 that has to be set up. You wouldn't believe the HELL I went through getting my new Ender 3 up and running. I had EVERY known Ender 3 problem from the start and then some. Was a month of hell trying to get it to work. Like half of my prints were failing, because of problems arising one after another. Had to print many parts to fix it (with a broken printer because it was the only one I had) and even had to buy parts for it too (like the dual X axis setup), because the gantry wouldn't stay level. If I had known the V3 SE and V3 KE were coming out for just $100 more, I would have waited. I still love my Ender 3 though. Once I got it up and running it's been an excellent 3d printer for about a year now. Have printed 100s of things on it now with little to no issues.
Fantastic video. Really cool to see what the A1 Mini can do. I should actually be receiving my A1 (the bigger one) in a few days. Really excited to put it to work.
I used an Anycubic Vyper to print the entire helldiver costume for halloween this year. you can do it. Just takes time. Plus the Anycubic was more expensive and isn't as high of quality (in my experience) print wise as the Bambu. You can do it, just have to start!
I printed the odst helmet and a whole set of odst armor and weapons on my a1 mini, yes it took 2 months of non stop printing and even longer with the finish work but dang it was worth it
I've waited over a decade to get into 3d printing and the a1 mini is what finally made me pull the trigger the thing is just too sick. its so funny to see people who are already in a hobby judge hardware as a beginner because small things they whine about are like pros for me
Hey trying to glue the chaplain helmet together now. Any advice on what order to glue them together in? Also for future models why not have like a peg/ hole on parts where they go together to help male sure it lines up? Its a struggle holding some of this together while glue is drying and making it stay lined up right lol@GalacticArmory
Great content! Just picked up a P1S and this makes the process seem very doable. I would really love a sort of "Part II" to this video regarding helmet visors, and the different entry points and methods to building your own visors.
My wife was able to find a flashforge ad5m for 50% off as a black friday deal. Blew through my sample filament within the first few hours. Waiting for my first shipment to come in to have some real fun
I literally use an Anycubic Kobra 2 Pro that I got for 200 dollars. Other than dumb errors due to feed, it's a great printer that can get the some output as others but doesn't require much maintenance.
Let's be honest, anyone who thinks printers cost $1000's are completely clueless. The Creality Cr-10 was only a few hundred back in 2016/17 and the race to the bottom of Ender 3 copies in 2019-2020 made it so a decent printer shouldn't cost more than $250. The prices have started to creep up but the quality and reliability increase is the reason for that.
The V3 KE was selling for $230 recently and it's an excellent printer. I got my Ender 3 for $120 (with a roll of filament) and that's been an excellent and very, very useful printer. The quality it prints is excellent too once you have the settings right. I did have the typical nightmare of Ender 3 problems that the company refuses to fix... but after finally getting it up and running, it's been great for a year or so now. Have printed 100s of parts. Had I known better though, I would have purchased the V3 KE to start with. It's much faster, better quality and can print high temp filaments without any upgrades. It has far more features too. For $230 you just can't beat it. I think the other V3 version is even faster than the KE and is cheaper, but it won't print higher temp filaments. For the average person printing PLA and other lower temp filaments it's perfect though and not worth the extra money to get the V3 KE. If I didn't need to print nylon in the future, I would get the V3 SE and not the V3 KE, even if they were the same price.
I got my k1 max for about 990, but it’s also a super high tech printer and one of the fastest on the market straight out of the box, as in with no modifications.
I printed a star lord helmet on an unmodified Ender 3 V2. I wouldn't suggest it as the print speeds are so slow. I printed like 9 main pieces, and quite a few other small pieces that needed to glue together. Of the 9 bigger pieces 5 or 6 of them were over a full day print. That being said, I bought an A1 recently. slightly bigger build plate, but the big thing is the speed. Print times are like 1/10 that of the Ender3 V2 on many prints. Can't wait to print some big stuff. (Also bout 10kg of filament for $90) Definitely not expensive. Some things make more sense to buy if available, but that takes the fun out of it
I'm rocking a basic ender 3 and I print all kinds of stuff and it all comes out pretty well. Yes I know I need to upgrade 😂 also it took me a minute to realize you had a Lorna shore short on. Love those dudes.
Just printed a whole warhound titan for a little less than 1kg of filament. About 10$ worth of sunlu Meta on my A1 mini is all it took with some failures. This machine is a beast.
Acrylic paint with water and half a drop of Dawn will get the same depth effect as the oil paints and mineral spirits for a slightly smaller cost and without as much chemical exposure.
This is a great video with a wealth of tips, but how are you slicing the model to fit on the small A1 Mini plates? How do you decide WHERE to slice it so it fits together good later on?
We're looking to cover that in a Tips & Tricks episode in the future. But overall, it's being cut up in Bambu studio and then placed on separate build plates. And we're mainly aiming for areas that have little detail or on fine edges where we can hide seamlines. Study your model and try out some slices.
Yeah, I like the transparent red eyes on the white one. I'm not sure if you can 3d print that transparent though. You'd probably have to print in resin (if that's even possible) or cast them in epoxy/resin.
Wouldn't recommend. We use Ministry of Resin's Durable Resin with their Bang additive for all our detail parts on normal builds. They are very tough, but a full helmet in that wouldn't be realistic for the cost. That's why we focus on parts that need the detail or strength- helmet chin details, blaster barrels, triggers...etc. -Tyler
This video is basically how I described to my friend about how cheap 3d printing really can be. I just got into it 3 weeks ago and I was shocked how cheap printing a helmet can be. I printed your guy's Legacy Mark V Halo Helmet. I was shocked it only took a 1 spool and maybe a quarter. So like $20 CAD (I buy the 8 spool bulk refills for $16.99) minus the printer, but like you say its a one time purchase and its cost only gets more effective the more you print. Although I wish I bought the bigger size printer. The A1 Mini is very small. Lots of Seams.
Have you finished the helmet? Because ya printing it costs $20. But filler primer in Canada is $24 a can, probably 2 cans to do a helmet the first time, maybe 3. Bondo at Can Tire is 12.99 a tube. You're going to use a hole tube probably. If you do it the conventional way it's going to be a HUGE PITA. You will hate it, unless you're like an auto body guy. My first helmet took 40hrs of finishing. I sprayed it with crap rustoleum black, then went to hit it with another clear and it spider webbed all over the helmet. I had to sand it all down and do it again. Because people said to use bad quality paint. Protips coming up : Use an orbital sander. with like 220. Don't stay in one spot long but do the entire helmet. After that, wet sand that down with a 400. to take the 'fuzz' off left by sanding. WEARING A MASK WHILE ORBITAL SANDING Buy acetone at Canadian tire. Thin the bondo Glazing putty to a near water like consistency. Paint layers on your helmet to cover layer lines. It's going to make your life SOOO much freaking easier when it comes to sanding. Probably 3-5. I'd say a 1:10 mix of bondo to acetone. You can go less as far as ratio, but you will sand more. It's a trade off. WET SAND. Don't breath in the dust. wet sand man. 3m Automotive wet sanding multipacks at Can Tire are like $7-13 or something like that 320-1000 I think. The grit doesn't come off the paper into the print and make your finished paint job look awful like cheap wet sanding paper will. Buy the good stuff. Rinse it after sanding paints and you can use it for quite a while. Prime it BUT DON'T USE FILLER PRIMER. You save $10 a can. Buy the Rustoleum black Primer, primer is primer. don't waste money here. It's 13.99 at home depot or 14.99 at Can tire. Spray a thin prime layer. See if you need to rebondo anywhere. IMHO you shouldn't be applying full strength bondo unless you are filling a crack/layer that didn't adhere. Or smoothing seem transitions. But if you used pegs in your slicer, you shouldn't have nasty transitions. All the grey primer does is make it slightly easier over the black to see the layer lines. Use a good light, like a range hood in your kitchen and you'll be fine with the cheaper primer. In order to get a real glass like finish on a helmet you need to sand off the filler primer, it's nonsensical to use it. IMHO. Use Montana Gold Paints from michaels. It's the same price as Rustoleum, it doesn't contain clear. But the paints are just better. Period. Their metallics like gold are amazing. Get a clear and do 2-3 coats with a light wet sand between all layers. Then follow the directions on your clear of choice, you can put a 2k on it and have great protection for all your hard work. This stuff is a labour of love. There's a lot of learning. Hopefully this saves you time and money. I was almost $350 into my first helmet after bondo, mask, filler primer x3, paint, clear, filament, gloves tape and a big roll of paper to block off the areas and use less tape. It adds up. If you can save money on mistakes you can save so much time and money.
@@Cheddar-420 You would have those costs anytime you go and paint something but people don't tend to complain about those, they just complain about how 3D printers and 3D printing is so expensive.
I got an anycubic vyper from a thrift shop fairly recently and i just have to troubleshoot to make sure everything works correctly but im excited to start making helmets and cosplay stuff from it. My nieces and nephews are about to get an upgrade in costumes for Halloween (And conventions for me)
3D printing is cheap- it’s the sandpaper, tools, primers and paints that add up for me! But I do love buying shit lol- I have so many throw of sanding tool, different fillers, airbrush, etc Great video! Super informative and clear
I hope I get answers to these questions, so here it goes: 1. How well is the adhesion of the filament to the plate? (My Ender 3Pro either takes several tries before it actually sticks, or it sticks so well that It takes time and technique to get the print off without breaking it.) 2. What settings are you using to make this print? Dd you use the default setttnigs or do you use your own? 3. What type of filament are you using? (I use PLA) 4. How much testing have you done with the auto-leveler? (It's a game changer for sure!) And does it minimize the amount of errors with printing? 5. What settings need to be adjusted to maximize the printing? (I guess this goes back to the previous, but if you didn't do any special, what would you do to improve the print?) Thanks in advance!
1. On the Bambu printers, we have little to no adhesion issues. 2. We use mostly default settings on our Bambu Printers. 3. We use Bambu Basic PLA 4. Auto bed leveling is stock with Bambu printers and just makes life easier. 5. Run tests and adjust print settings as you go.
@@GalacticArmory Thank you so much! I've been looking for a more up to date printer to do exactly what you guys do. (I bought the Ender 3 back when it first came out.) Thanks again!
I bought a FLSUN T1 at Amazon for $399 and it only took me 7 hours to finish an Iron Man MK42 helmet with paint, and it worked great, a professional printer really saves costs
Thank you for the tutorial, that is very informative. The only issue that iam walking in is that the Bondo Spot Putty isn't available in the EU. Do you have maybe other suggestions?
"@Costronica 1 day ago to people asking about EU brands about "Bondo" etc, get the brand "Motip" they usually sell all those variants under that name over here in Europe. (including putties etc) Motip and Duplicolor (the brand of the steel rattlecan in this video), fused together in 1998 into the MOTIP DUPLI group, so if your looking for stuff, just include MOTIP in your search query. example: Motip putty / spot putty / 1k finishing putty"
Great Video Being a newbie at this just one quick comment If people are upset over the cost of a 3D printer close to $1000 ..Then I strongly advise that they DO NOT get into diode lasers let alone Fiber Lasers (I have both 5 watt diode and 60 watt MOPA fiber...just recently added a QIDI PLUS 4 to my collection ) One question though from start to finish ..how many hours would be involved (printing parts...removing supports...assembly. Prep for paint..and painting final touches)
we've been discussing upgrading our printer. We got ours back in... 2018 or 2019? And it's at the end of its life right now. It's been non-stop problems lately, and newer printers are such higher quality now. Any recommendations for a fellow cosplayer that doesn't break the bank? (I think we payed $800 for our current one back then.)
Printers have come a long way since then. You can get a P1S for a little cheaper than that, or do what Jamie did and get an A1 from Babmu. I've got a P1S and I love it. It's clocked over 5,000 print hours on it and I've had no major issues, just some standard maintenance has been needed.
Love your channel. Just ordered a PS1. To make some items I need for woodwork, then make props/costumes. What auxiliary tools/equipment would you recommend for someone starting. Also, what face mask do you recommend for people with beards
Congrats on the purchase! I love my P1S. Honestly, watch the Titus tutorial on our channel, we have a long build video on it and there's loads of tools in the description. But mainly it's going to be 3M Sandpaper, mouse sander, bondo, dropper of UV Resin, UV Light, nitrile gloves, 3M Respirator with 60923 filters, and CA Glue with activator. There's loads of other small tools that come in handy as well. We do have some upcoming content that is going to cover a lot of this. Check back this Saturday for a new video, but until then, watch some tutorials and get use to the equipment you see used. Happy printing!
I only have 10k worhmth of printers... starting from $200 to $1700... both resin and fdm. they all work great! Dome faster than others, some mutli color. Just finishing an articulating Ironman mask. Love this stuff!!! But resin on FDM?! I use resin to fill gaps on my resin prints, but never thought to use it on my FDM.
I got myself a Bambu A1 recently for 300. About 12 rolls of filament later and a month or 2 I now how an full sized IronMan suit. Now sanding and painting. Ofc it's expensive, its not like you can make big and good looking props for a tenner. It's an investment and some people dont realise that and think anything art related is cheap or even free.
The helmet is available via the Specialist Annual Membership on our Patreon. Annual membership gives you access to every file we've ever made and will make for the next year.
Suuper interested in getting this model though i didnt see it in any of the patreon previews did this helmet come from somewhere else or is it new with the Patreon?
The Chaplain is apart of the Space Marine contest that we're currently doing, so it has been extended to the end of this month. If you sign up now, you will get the Chaplain in the 'Contest Eligible' folder along with other Space Marine helmets.
Am not sure if this is not common knowledge but the a1 mini has been 199 for a couple months known before Black Friday deals. Its there X series and p series on sale
As long as you are taking your time and trust the process, you won't lose much detail. Even areas of the skull that have a lot of details, but also had a seam run through it are still very visible. We often use toothpicks to claw back bondo from those spots so we are addressing the seam without our work spilling over too much.
@@GalacticArmorydoes this include sliced versions for A1/A1 mini build volume size printers? Alternatively, any recommendations on how to slice yalls files into multiple build plates?
Bought an elegoo neptune 3 pro. Bought an stl file for a big ass Sauron helmet, downloaded a few free ones, got me some nice quality filament. That was 4 months ago. Spent more time tinkering with the hot plastic spitter than actually getting anything done. I just can't figure it out, so now I have 2 helmets which I CAN'T print alongside with many small failures. Was it temperature, flowrate, speed or maybe the stars weren't aligned properly? Demotivated, I've given up on it, should have saved up for a bamboo or a prusa, sigh...
@@MrWolfFenrir Well apart for some minor problems, there's one that still boggles me, since it's structural = a problem. When a new perimeter begins, there's underextrusion it seems for like 5 cm, when I have 3 walls, all of them begin this way, which results in delamination, I can literally stick a knife between the perimeter walls. I've tried retraction, temperature, and some other minor adjustments, for all I know it could be the pressure in the nozzle chamber? It's weird, it even created holes in the print right where the seam was.
Of course they already DMCA'd you guys...... Literally 2 days before I was able to pick up the STL for the helmet.... Was gonna be my first project to.
Yep, can confirm. I’ve built a full helldiver and a space marine helmet on a £300 resin printer, a helmet like the one in the video costs about £30 in resin
If you choose to buy your lenses, we make them and they can be found on our site. galacticarmory.net/products/chaplain-lenses-diy?srsltid=AfmBOop_zd2-mJxTf8U1Yr_FI8Fwt3UaFdLCgx7pS6Dvh7W3k_3gz_gY
quick tip for these is that u can save a lot on the filament by buying cheaper brand now yes u may have more work or issues (rarely in my experience) but all your buying the fancier filaments for is to make sure that it matches the colors and feel that you want along with almost a guarantee that it will work with the printer you bought it for and the cheapest I've found and they work great for my printers is only about $10-$11 per kg mind you it also matters on ur printers print speed and heating settings along with a few other things but it can be done for even less than these guys showed along with tools for putting things together can be cheaped out on Truly in my opinion the only thing your spending a lot on when getting any 3d printer is time because its not just something that is push a button and get your item its hours or days sometimes even weeks worth of work for something of even the size of the helmet they made here
Is it $200 USD or AUD because iam from Australia and $200 USD is like $400+ for me and thiers no where over here that sells any of the gear or filliments
The mini is currently $329aud on their website end of year sale. They sell filament and accessories also. Just bought an a1 and had it delivered to Western Vic in 3 days.
Well I hope you pressed play! It does include the cost of the printer, and the vast majority of printers these days are incredibly plug-and-play! Gone are the days of countless misprints on an old CR-10 trying to get the bed levelled properly 😂
@@MjrProps Thanks for the breakdown, although I do feel like I have to complain about one thing, and that's not including the cost of the lenses and tubing that are almost equal to the "50 bucks to make a second one"
@ this file set includes printable tubes, and the lenses can be cheap acetate sheets, or you don’t even need to include them. You are really searching for things to complain about now 😂
Just for reference. I made the entire Helldivers 2 armor with a senator gun. I spend about $60 on spools (with a good bit of left overs) and about another $40 in UV resing, sanding paper, and paints. just the armor for about $100 is CRAZY
I did your full Helldivers 2 Armor on a 150€ Ender 3. 😂 Took a while but looked awesome ☺️
No shit?? Care to share? I'm still working with my Ender 3 too
@ I will post it on Patreon
Nice! I got started on an ender 3 for $120 with a roll of filament included. I do wish I had saved up and got the Ender 3 V3 KE though for only $100 more. It prints WAY faster and can print Nylon and a lot of other higher temperature filaments. (The V3 KE was on sale just after I bought my Ender 3 for $220). I have been very happy with my Ender 3 though. After the initial Nightmare of 30 days of fixing and upgrading it, it has printed very well with excellent quality).
I also did my helldivers 2 armor on the ender 3 for about $200
Using a 3D printer is like buying almost anything else. The more you invest the less hassles you typically have but that doesn't mean you can't accomplish the same thing on less expensive items. It's a matter of do you want to invest your money or your time in a project.
This depends entirely on the specific 3D printer. Buying a CR-10 or similar, if you even can anymore, wouldn’t be so simple.
That isn't really true anymore. Yes the more expensive machines may have more convenient features but most people won't use them. If you just want to print basic materials like PLA then a cheap A1 is probably a better choice than the X1C which is made for more advanced materials.
Cheap machines are very good now, almost plug and play, the only thing you might give up is build plate size but the A1 which has the same build volume as the X1C and it is a pretty decent build volume for consumer printers so you aren't even giving up build volume anymore as long as you don't go for the absolute cheapest.
I got a crappy Ender 3 for $100.00 and I couldn't even begin to name all the things I've made/built and fixed with it. My Ender 3 prints very good quality. I did have a nightmare situation when I first got it though with all the known issues that Ender refuses to fix (and then some)... but after getting it up and running right, it's been running for months without any problems and I've printed 100s of things on it. I've probably printed 300-400 prototypes alone this year... and that's not including finished pieces, which was probably at least 50 or so.
Most definitely - I got a Kobra 2 neo a year ago because i was blown away there were printers on sale for $150 and while it did take me a few hours to get proper bed adhesion, I got over 100 hours of successful prints. But all the tinkering with changing filament types it was hours of tinkering to get a good print after going from PLA to PETG to the point i just didnt want to deal with it anymore. Well I saw the sale from Bambu and snagged a p1s and have been blown away completely. Ive only had it for 2 weeks now but I have already had over 100 hours of successful prints with almost zero issues. The better machine just allowed me to do better things with the printer without having to think if the first few layers will extrude properly.
@@MrGigs94 I bought an Ender 3 and it took me a month and more money to get it working right. I had every known issue that people ever run into with them and then some even more bad things on top of them. Bed too loose, bed springs not long enough, bed too far from print head to be able to zero, bed losing zero constantly, because the wheels turn while printing, Had to print a new z-stop, had to get a dual axis, etc... etc... etc... etc... It was a real pain in the ass.
The Ender V3 KE came out just after I got mine too. Wish I would have waited and got one of them when they were on sale for $200. Never thought to buy from another company than Ender, because I just don't (didn't) really know what I was getting with all the others. I probably would have been better off getting the Kobra 2 Neo for $50 more. At the time though, I literally didn't have an extra $50 to spend, so I was kind of stuck with very few options.
I did a full set of shock trooper clone armor in time for May 4th this year on a Elegoo Neptune 3 Pro starting with ZERO experience. Took 3 months of non stop printing and maybe $300 in filament and paint supplies. Worth every minute seeing that suit complete in the mirror!
I JUST got my Neptune 3 pro I can't wait to make a cosplay
Painting Tip: brush paint over your masking tape seams with your base color before you spray and you will get super crisp lines with no drips under your tape.
to people asking about EU brands about "Bondo" etc, get the brand "Motip" they usually sell all those variants under that name over here in Europe. (including putties etc)
Motip and Duplicolor (the brand of the steel rattlecan in this video), fused together in 1998 into the MOTIP DUPLI group, so if your looking for stuff, just include MOTIP in your search query.
example: Motip putty / spot putty / 1k finishing putty
"MOTIP"? You people are weird. lol.
Phenomenal stuff, I've been using it for a long time, can be difficult to get sometimes though.
based motip enjoyer, been using them for years. the best out there.
@@phara128 same, their Spray putty is an awesome filler for 3d prints.
Motip is great but imo doesn’t gap fill really- you should use car body filler for seams, motip spray putty for layer lines
I just got my A1 mini in the mail yesterday and printed out a bunch of stuff and it’s really nice. I do have an elegoo three max. So I don’t need to print my helmets on it, but it is a nice printer from the little time. I’ve had it and it has reallygood print quality.
I have a 3 plus and it’s so nice, great size, never had to slice a helmet or armour piece yet
I like what you guys are doing, thank you for the help, never tired before but will now
I bought a Bambu P1S in October. Spent $600 on it. Bambu started their black Friday sale a few weeks later and they gave me a $50 credit when I asked. I put that towards an AMS.
Also, I tried printing a few free STL cosplay files and they were really horrible. I ended up buying a file from you guys so it wouldn't suck. I should go check my printer now to see how it's going.
How is your progress?
@@matthewkelly9012I bought a Westar 35 STL from them. I started by printing the grip and it turned out really nice. The rest of the parts are printing now.
I tried a free one from Makerlab and I guess you get what you pay for. It was a waste of PETG.
@@matthewkelly9012I bought a Bo Katan Westar 35 STL. I started by printing the grip and it turned out really well. The rest of the parts are printing now.
I tried a free one from Bambu and it just was a waste of PETG. I guess you get what you pay for.
@@heatherpayne1995 I'm glad to hear it's going well! I may have to buy some files soon. Thank you! And happy printing!
Same I bought the P1s and AMS last year anright before their BF sale and they honored it and gave me $100 and I bought filament...Bambu is awesome
This is great! Awhile back, I did a Shakespeare bust - a prop from the old Batman show - and through experimentation I did a lot of what you suggested. I used the 3D Pen, glue, filler, UV resin. It worked, though the sanding took a looong time - I learned a lot through your video as well - ways to do things better. Thanks!
I can't believe people say that, my first printer was 300 bucks and I get filament for around 16.99 for 1kg, it's actually one of the cheaper hobbies out there
The key is to stop buying stuff. I got an a1 mini a year ago and now I have 4 A1s and a K2 plus. I probably have 200 rolls of filiment on the shelf.
@ well no argument that’s the hard part, since that first CR10 I have bought 4 or 5 filament printers and 4 resin printers so my wife would probably argue that it’s not a cheap hobby
love the intro, seems like you guys had a lot of fun with it
Bought a Creality Ender 3 Pro off eBay a couple of months ago for like £100. Aside from the constant reconfiguring, bed levelling, tinkering, and other materials which came with a few costs (mostly due to my own inexperience), I have been loving the experience. I gather that by today's standards the Ender 3 is now a little outdated, but it has a large community and lots of modification options. Not ideal for a 'plug in and play' experience, but for approx. £150 all in, it has been a great introduction into the world of 3D printing.
(btw also joined a Patreon and received a commercial licence to sell a few prints, and have subsequently made back all of my upfront investment!!)
A lot of us started on the Ender 3 Pro! I think those skills are really valuable. Is it a pain? Yeah, a little- especially when you're diving into Marlin or recoding your printer's config, but I'm glad I slugged it out in the trenches of early 3D Printing.
@@tyler_stab Exactly, it's really hell in the beginning, but they're invaluable skill that transfert on new machine.
I finally bought a K1 max 2month ago, and all that tinkering on the ender 3 allowed me to dials that thing down perfectly.
Did you buy it new or used? If it was used then £100 is a lot unless it came with upgrades.
I started on the ender 3 Pro too but I now have an X1C. It is just so much easier with newer and more modern printers, even the bambu A series. I do not regret the ender 3 though, it was fun and I learned a lot but if your primary goal is to use the printer as a tool rather than a project in itself then I would recommend a more modern printer.
@@conorstewart2214 used but had a sprite extruder and filament sensor upgraded. Also came totally set up so didn't need to faff around building it 😂
@@conorstewart2214 I would rather buy a used one for $100 all set up and running with a Sprite Extruder than to buy a new one for $100 that has to be set up. You wouldn't believe the HELL I went through getting my new Ender 3 up and running. I had EVERY known Ender 3 problem from the start and then some. Was a month of hell trying to get it to work. Like half of my prints were failing, because of problems arising one after another. Had to print many parts to fix it (with a broken printer because it was the only one I had) and even had to buy parts for it too (like the dual X axis setup), because the gantry wouldn't stay level. If I had known the V3 SE and V3 KE were coming out for just $100 more, I would have waited. I still love my Ender 3 though. Once I got it up and running it's been an excellent 3d printer for about a year now. Have printed 100s of things on it now with little to no issues.
Fantastic video. Really cool to see what the A1 Mini can do. I should actually be receiving my A1 (the bigger one) in a few days. Really excited to put it to work.
That's awesome! We got tons of tutorials on our page and we drop new files every month.
0:32 Jamie is a wild one! I watch that part of the video twice before continuing!
17:54 I just want to know how Jamie made that 1 way visor!
They have videos from a few years ago explaining the process.
I used an Anycubic Vyper to print the entire helldiver costume for halloween this year. you can do it. Just takes time. Plus the Anycubic was more expensive and isn't as high of quality (in my experience) print wise as the Bambu. You can do it, just have to start!
I've had a Kobra 2 Neo for about a week, and price/performance I've been quite impressed,
Im now printing masks on a Chiron
Im using my Kobra Max to print my Hell Diver as we speak. Just preordered their new big multi color printer.
I would love to see more builds using the A1 mini. It's so much more realistic, grounded, and humbling. And i think your view count reflects that.
I printed the odst helmet and a whole set of odst armor and weapons on my a1 mini, yes it took 2 months of non stop printing and even longer with the finish work but dang it was worth it
I've waited over a decade to get into 3d printing and the a1 mini is what finally made me pull the trigger the thing is just too sick. its so funny to see people who are already in a hobby judge hardware as a beginner because small things they whine about are like pros for me
Very entertaining and great information! Subscribed :)
Thanks for the follow!
Hey trying to glue the chaplain helmet together now. Any advice on what order to glue them together in? Also for future models why not have like a peg/ hole on parts where they go together to help male sure it lines up? Its a struggle holding some of this together while glue is drying and making it stay lined up right lol@GalacticArmory
I bought my Chiron back in 2021 for like $279 on sale from their website. It is a 400mmx400mm print bed!
Just subbed to the patreon a couple of weeks ago. Love your content guys keep up the great work.
Great content! Just picked up a P1S and this makes the process seem very doable. I would really love a sort of "Part II" to this video regarding helmet visors, and the different entry points and methods to building your own visors.
I made the NCR ranger armor and helmet using a 3D print pen and Polaroid filament, literally don’t need anything expensive to get it done
Wtf you are patient.. holy shit that's gotta take forever
How have you made the red eye covers of the caplain helmet ? that looks so cool. ❤
I did your full boba fett set using just an A1 Mini, you can do it if you put in the effort!
Now this was a fun video! Great job
Glad you enjoyed it!
This is an amazing breakdown for new 3d printers
I got the 489 dallar one stoked to play with it.
My wife was able to find a flashforge ad5m for 50% off as a black friday deal. Blew through my sample filament within the first few hours. Waiting for my first shipment to come in to have some real fun
Beautiful video, I must add that in many project will be to find or pay the stl file of cosplay project, in some case very expensive
I literally use an Anycubic Kobra 2 Pro that I got for 200 dollars. Other than dumb errors due to feed, it's a great printer that can get the some output as others but doesn't require much maintenance.
Let's be honest, anyone who thinks printers cost $1000's are completely clueless. The Creality Cr-10 was only a few hundred back in 2016/17 and the race to the bottom of Ender 3 copies in 2019-2020 made it so a decent printer shouldn't cost more than $250. The prices have started to creep up but the quality and reliability increase is the reason for that.
The V3 KE was selling for $230 recently and it's an excellent printer. I got my Ender 3 for $120 (with a roll of filament) and that's been an excellent and very, very useful printer. The quality it prints is excellent too once you have the settings right. I did have the typical nightmare of Ender 3 problems that the company refuses to fix... but after finally getting it up and running, it's been great for a year or so now. Have printed 100s of parts. Had I known better though, I would have purchased the V3 KE to start with. It's much faster, better quality and can print high temp filaments without any upgrades. It has far more features too. For $230 you just can't beat it. I think the other V3 version is even faster than the KE and is cheaper, but it won't print higher temp filaments. For the average person printing PLA and other lower temp filaments it's perfect though and not worth the extra money to get the V3 KE. If I didn't need to print nylon in the future, I would get the V3 SE and not the V3 KE, even if they were the same price.
@@deucedeuce1572Any Ender is complete garbage compared to a Bambu Lab.
false but go off queen
I got my k1 max for about 990, but it’s also a super high tech printer and one of the fastest on the market straight out of the box, as in with no modifications.
@seanr7297 Fight, fight, fight, fight
I printed a star lord helmet on an unmodified Ender 3 V2. I wouldn't suggest it as the print speeds are so slow. I printed like 9 main pieces, and quite a few other small pieces that needed to glue together. Of the 9 bigger pieces 5 or 6 of them were over a full day print.
That being said, I bought an A1 recently. slightly bigger build plate, but the big thing is the speed. Print times are like 1/10 that of the Ender3 V2 on many prints. Can't wait to print some big stuff. (Also bout 10kg of filament for $90)
Definitely not expensive. Some things make more sense to buy if available, but that takes the fun out of it
Just Amazing, 11/10 to the Chef
Thank you guys for putting this out there, much appreciated
That Lorna shirt is awesome
I'm rocking a basic ender 3 and I print all kinds of stuff and it all comes out pretty well. Yes I know I need to upgrade 😂 also it took me a minute to realize you had a Lorna shore short on. Love those dudes.
How do you make your lenses, would be awesome to see the process!
Looks great. I printed my Primaris helmet on my Neptune 4 pro. with 2 spools of filament it was $250.
Just printed a whole warhound titan for a little less than 1kg of filament. About 10$ worth of sunlu Meta on my A1 mini is all it took with some failures. This machine is a beast.
Love the LS shirt
Sick shirt jamie
HUGE shoutout to all of Jamie's T-shirts!
Acrylic paint with water and half a drop of Dawn will get the same depth effect as the oil paints and mineral spirits for a slightly smaller cost and without as much chemical exposure.
1:07 I picked up a big FDM printer, and four rolls of filament for 400 bucks. Now to figure out how to create a cosplay of a Battletech Atlas…
R.I.P Camping chair, I love seeing both of you goofing around.
This was a beautiful video. Thank you.
Thanks guys for the inspiration. Cool video.
This is a great video with a wealth of tips, but how are you slicing the model to fit on the small A1 Mini plates? How do you decide WHERE to slice it so it fits together good later on?
We're looking to cover that in a Tips & Tricks episode in the future. But overall, it's being cut up in Bambu studio and then placed on separate build plates. And we're mainly aiming for areas that have little detail or on fine edges where we can hide seamlines. Study your model and try out some slices.
@@GalacticArmory where or how where the lenses made?
Hello, How do you do the transparent part for eyes? Can you name a technique or make a video about that? Thank you.
Yeah, I like the transparent red eyes on the white one. I'm not sure if you can 3d print that transparent though. You'd probably have to print in resin (if that's even possible) or cast them in epoxy/resin.
I’d imagine you can get a similar effect by cutting out some sort of visor material and putting on some red tint wrap on it
Thinking of joining the patreon. Do you get access to everything or only so far back?
@@northwales1000 if you join annually at the specialist tier you get everything I've ever made
I have question, could I print the helmet parts on a resin printer?
You could, but it would use a ton of resin. I would guess about 5-6 kg of resin, which would be very difficult to wear and very brittle.
Wouldn't recommend. We use Ministry of Resin's Durable Resin with their Bang additive for all our detail parts on normal builds. They are very tough, but a full helmet in that wouldn't be realistic for the cost. That's why we focus on parts that need the detail or strength- helmet chin details, blaster barrels, triggers...etc.
-Tyler
This video is basically how I described to my friend about how cheap 3d printing really can be. I just got into it 3 weeks ago and I was shocked how cheap printing a helmet can be. I printed your guy's Legacy Mark V Halo Helmet. I was shocked it only took a 1 spool and maybe a quarter. So like $20 CAD (I buy the 8 spool bulk refills for $16.99) minus the printer, but like you say its a one time purchase and its cost only gets more effective the more you print. Although I wish I bought the bigger size printer. The A1 Mini is very small. Lots of Seams.
Have you finished the helmet? Because ya printing it costs $20. But filler primer in Canada is $24 a can, probably 2 cans to do a helmet the first time, maybe 3. Bondo at Can Tire is 12.99 a tube. You're going to use a hole tube probably. If you do it the conventional way it's going to be a HUGE PITA. You will hate it, unless you're like an auto body guy. My first helmet took 40hrs of finishing. I sprayed it with crap rustoleum black, then went to hit it with another clear and it spider webbed all over the helmet. I had to sand it all down and do it again. Because people said to use bad quality paint.
Protips coming up : Use an orbital sander. with like 220. Don't stay in one spot long but do the entire helmet. After that, wet sand that down with a 400. to take the 'fuzz' off left by sanding. WEARING A MASK WHILE ORBITAL SANDING
Buy acetone at Canadian tire. Thin the bondo Glazing putty to a near water like consistency. Paint layers on your helmet to cover layer lines. It's going to make your life SOOO much freaking easier when it comes to sanding. Probably 3-5. I'd say a 1:10 mix of bondo to acetone. You can go less as far as ratio, but you will sand more. It's a trade off.
WET SAND. Don't breath in the dust. wet sand man. 3m Automotive wet sanding multipacks at Can Tire are like $7-13 or something like that 320-1000 I think. The grit doesn't come off the paper into the print and make your finished paint job look awful like cheap wet sanding paper will. Buy the good stuff. Rinse it after sanding paints and you can use it for quite a while.
Prime it BUT DON'T USE FILLER PRIMER. You save $10 a can. Buy the Rustoleum black Primer, primer is primer. don't waste money here. It's 13.99 at home depot or 14.99 at Can tire. Spray a thin prime layer. See if you need to rebondo anywhere. IMHO you shouldn't be applying full strength bondo unless you are filling a crack/layer that didn't adhere. Or smoothing seem transitions. But if you used pegs in your slicer, you shouldn't have nasty transitions. All the grey primer does is make it slightly easier over the black to see the layer lines. Use a good light, like a range hood in your kitchen and you'll be fine with the cheaper primer. In order to get a real glass like finish on a helmet you need to sand off the filler primer, it's nonsensical to use it. IMHO.
Use Montana Gold Paints from michaels. It's the same price as Rustoleum, it doesn't contain clear. But the paints are just better. Period. Their metallics like gold are amazing. Get a clear and do 2-3 coats with a light wet sand between all layers. Then follow the directions on your clear of choice, you can put a 2k on it and have great protection for all your hard work.
This stuff is a labour of love. There's a lot of learning. Hopefully this saves you time and money. I was almost $350 into my first helmet after bondo, mask, filler primer x3, paint, clear, filament, gloves tape and a big roll of paper to block off the areas and use less tape. It adds up. If you can save money on mistakes you can save so much time and money.
@Cheddar-420 I was only talking about printing it. And Yeah It's finished. Probably about $70 total to fully finish it.
@@TenaciousTiger That's a heck of a lot better than I managed on my first attempt lol.
@Cheddar-420 Thanks! Lol. I did a lot research. I also had some help from my girlfriend's dad. He taught me a lot of tricks for airbrushing.
@@Cheddar-420 You would have those costs anytime you go and paint something but people don't tend to complain about those, they just complain about how 3D printers and 3D printing is so expensive.
That helmet looks so awesome 😮
That was a handsome ODST 😍
Your link for the CA glue with activator is broken. It sends me to the UV resin link. Just FYI. Great video, as usual!
I got an anycubic vyper from a thrift shop fairly recently and i just have to troubleshoot to make sure everything works correctly but im excited to start making helmets and cosplay stuff from it. My nieces and nephews are about to get an upgrade in costumes for Halloween (And conventions for me)
3D printing is cheap- it’s the sandpaper, tools, primers and paints that add up for me!
But I do love buying shit lol- I have so many throw of sanding tool, different fillers, airbrush, etc
Great video! Super informative and clear
Hi, when will you continue cutting figurines and make a SW airbone trooper model?
instead of bondo, have you thought about jb weld? It's polymer so you could adhere and fill in in one step?
I hope I get answers to these questions, so here it goes:
1. How well is the adhesion of the filament to the plate? (My Ender 3Pro either takes several tries before it actually sticks, or it sticks so well that It takes time and technique to get the print off without breaking it.)
2. What settings are you using to make this print? Dd you use the default setttnigs or do you use your own?
3. What type of filament are you using? (I use PLA)
4. How much testing have you done with the auto-leveler? (It's a game changer for sure!) And does it minimize the amount of errors with printing?
5. What settings need to be adjusted to maximize the printing? (I guess this goes back to the previous, but if you didn't do any special, what would you do to improve the print?)
Thanks in advance!
1. On the Bambu printers, we have little to no adhesion issues.
2. We use mostly default settings on our Bambu Printers.
3. We use Bambu Basic PLA
4. Auto bed leveling is stock with Bambu printers and just makes life easier.
5. Run tests and adjust print settings as you go.
@@GalacticArmory Thank you so much! I've been looking for a more up to date printer to do exactly what you guys do. (I bought the Ender 3 back when it first came out.) Thanks again!
I bought a FLSUN T1 at Amazon for $399 and it only took me 7 hours to finish an Iron Man MK42 helmet with paint, and it worked great, a professional printer really saves costs
Thank you for the tutorial, that is very informative. The only issue that iam walking in is that the Bondo Spot Putty isn't available in the EU. Do you have maybe other suggestions?
Baby powder and UV set resin works really well as an alternative!
Acrylic putty is also a popular alternative!
I bought some bondo on Amazon uk
"@Costronica
1 day ago
to people asking about EU brands about "Bondo" etc, get the brand "Motip" they usually sell all those variants under that name over here in Europe. (including putties etc)
Motip and Duplicolor (the brand of the steel rattlecan in this video), fused together in 1998 into the MOTIP DUPLI group, so if your looking for stuff, just include MOTIP in your search query.
example: Motip putty / spot putty / 1k finishing putty"
Now, what i wanna know is, does the sprew glue trick work for filling?
Great Video
Being a newbie at this just one quick comment
If people are upset over the cost of a 3D printer close to $1000 ..Then I strongly advise that they DO NOT get into diode lasers let alone Fiber Lasers (I have both 5 watt diode and 60 watt MOPA fiber...just recently added a QIDI PLUS 4 to my collection )
One question though
from start to finish ..how many hours would be involved (printing parts...removing supports...assembly. Prep for paint..and painting final touches)
lorna shore shirt was fire
we've been discussing upgrading our printer. We got ours back in... 2018 or 2019? And it's at the end of its life right now. It's been non-stop problems lately, and newer printers are such higher quality now. Any recommendations for a fellow cosplayer that doesn't break the bank? (I think we payed $800 for our current one back then.)
Printers have come a long way since then. You can get a P1S for a little cheaper than that, or do what Jamie did and get an A1 from Babmu. I've got a P1S and I love it. It's clocked over 5,000 print hours on it and I've had no major issues, just some standard maintenance has been needed.
Love your channel. Just ordered a PS1. To make some items I need for woodwork, then make props/costumes. What auxiliary tools/equipment would you recommend for someone starting.
Also, what face mask do you recommend for people with beards
Congrats on the purchase! I love my P1S. Honestly, watch the Titus tutorial on our channel, we have a long build video on it and there's loads of tools in the description. But mainly it's going to be 3M Sandpaper, mouse sander, bondo, dropper of UV Resin, UV Light, nitrile gloves, 3M Respirator with 60923 filters, and CA Glue with activator. There's loads of other small tools that come in handy as well. We do have some upcoming content that is going to cover a lot of this. Check back this Saturday for a new video, but until then, watch some tutorials and get use to the equipment you see used. Happy printing!
I kind of dig the multi color puzzle piece pattern of the unfinished helmet. Must be the Ork in me. Mo' Dakka dakka!
I only have 10k worhmth of printers... starting from $200 to $1700... both resin and fdm. they all work great! Dome faster than others, some mutli color. Just finishing an articulating Ironman mask. Love this stuff!!!
But resin on FDM?! I use resin to fill gaps on my resin prints, but never thought to use it on my FDM.
I got myself a Bambu A1 recently for 300. About 12 rolls of filament later and a month or 2 I now how an full sized IronMan suit. Now sanding and painting. Ofc it's expensive, its not like you can make big and good looking props for a tenner. It's an investment and some people dont realise that and think anything art related is cheap or even free.
Where can I find some of these awesome STL's?
We've got them on Patreon.com/GalacticArmory! Annual Memberships gets you everything we've ever made and that includes every 40K file we've released.
Just found your video, went to your website and no helmet (Either I missed it, or I imagine you had IP issues). Are the files available anywhere?
The helmet is available via the Specialist Annual Membership on our Patreon. Annual membership gives you access to every file we've ever made and will make for the next year.
Suuper interested in getting this model though i didnt see it in any of the patreon previews
did this helmet come from somewhere else or is it new with the Patreon?
The Chaplain is apart of the Space Marine contest that we're currently doing, so it has been extended to the end of this month. If you sign up now, you will get the Chaplain in the 'Contest Eligible' folder along with other Space Marine helmets.
Am not sure if this is not common knowledge but the a1 mini has been 199 for a couple months known before Black Friday deals. Its there X series and p series on sale
You guys seem like you are something of an authority on making cosplay pieces, do you have any thoughts on PLA? Have you not had melting issues?
Tips and tricks video coming soon
That helmet has a lot of texture and detail. With that many seams, how much of the detail are you sacrificing?
As long as you are taking your time and trust the process, you won't lose much detail. Even areas of the skull that have a lot of details, but also had a seam run through it are still very visible. We often use toothpicks to claw back bondo from those spots so we are addressing the seam without our work spilling over too much.
I would love to have you guys share your printer settings for the XC. Looks pretty remarkable from what I can see.
They're included in all our recent files! We started putting Bambu Project and GCODE files with each helmet release
@@GalacticArmorydoes this include sliced versions for A1/A1 mini build volume size printers?
Alternatively, any recommendations on how to slice yalls files into multiple build plates?
Bought an elegoo neptune 3 pro. Bought an stl file for a big ass Sauron helmet, downloaded a few free ones, got me some nice quality filament. That was 4 months ago. Spent more time tinkering with the hot plastic spitter than actually getting anything done. I just can't figure it out, so now I have 2 helmets which I CAN'T print alongside with many small failures. Was it temperature, flowrate, speed or maybe the stars weren't aligned properly? Demotivated, I've given up on it, should have saved up for a bamboo or a prusa, sigh...
Which problems, exactly?
@@MrWolfFenrir Well apart for some minor problems, there's one that still boggles me, since it's structural = a problem. When a new perimeter begins, there's underextrusion it seems for like 5 cm, when I have 3 walls, all of them begin this way, which results in delamination, I can literally stick a knife between the perimeter walls. I've tried retraction, temperature, and some other minor adjustments, for all I know it could be the pressure in the nozzle chamber? It's weird, it even created holes in the print right where the seam was.
@ 1) Calibrate rotation distance for extruder 2) calibrate linear advance 3) calibrate flow (or set around 0,97 for tests)
Of course they already DMCA'd you guys...... Literally 2 days before I was able to pick up the STL for the helmet.... Was gonna be my first project to.
Yep, can confirm. I’ve built a full helldiver and a space marine helmet on a £300 resin printer, a helmet like the one in the video costs about £30 in resin
I caution using sunlight to cure UV resin. In some places the sun will be hot enough to warp PLA. Manage the amount of exposure to prevent warping.
What did you use for the eyes of the helmet?
If you choose to buy your lenses, we make them and they can be found on our site.
galacticarmory.net/products/chaplain-lenses-diy?srsltid=AfmBOop_zd2-mJxTf8U1Yr_FI8Fwt3UaFdLCgx7pS6Dvh7W3k_3gz_gY
Can you guys do a Deadboy helmet from the RPG Rifts?
How did you do the non-resin lenses?
how you did the EYE LANCE
Awesome Helmet! Is there a file available for purchase?
It's on our Patreon until the end of the month, along with tons of other files! Patreon.com/GalacticArmory
@@GalacticArmory Awesome! Witch membership will give me access?
Where are the files for the SPI at?
where can i get the files for that helmet?
They're on Patreon.com/GalacticArmory under the Specialist Tier until the end of the month, then they get moved to the Specialist Annual Membership
quick tip for these is that u can save a lot on the filament by buying cheaper brand now yes u may have more work or issues (rarely in my experience) but all your buying the fancier filaments for is to make sure that it matches the colors and feel that you want along with almost a guarantee that it will work with the printer you bought it for and the cheapest I've found and they work great for my printers is only about $10-$11 per kg mind you it also matters on ur printers print speed and heating settings along with a few other things but it can be done for even less than these guys showed along with tools for putting things together can be cheaped out on
Truly in my opinion the only thing your spending a lot on when getting any 3d printer is time because its not just something that is push a button and get your item its hours or days sometimes even weeks worth of work for something of even the size of the helmet they made here
Leandro's drip is unmatched
My issues with seams was actually the glue was risen above the PLA and was tougher to sand than the PLA. Very frustrating
That’s where we recommend using those metal rasps, they will get through that glue no problem!
Is it $200 USD or AUD because iam from Australia and $200 USD is like $400+ for me and thiers no where over here that sells any of the gear or filliments
The mini is currently $329aud on their website end of year sale. They sell filament and accessories also. Just bought an a1 and had it delivered to Western Vic in 3 days.
Do you guys have the files for this helmet? I have a smaller printer and have been wanting to get into making helmets.
@@baconlord00 on our patreon annual specialist tier
Super taf top cool 🎉😊
how do you make the eye lenzes
the eyes are vacuum formed, which is a whole other process. We do sell the lenses in a variety of colors on our site
My question is how much does post processing compare between the two
It's roughly the same amount of time- about 3 days worth of work.
17:15 what file is that I can’t find it on your shop?
It's the Mirage helmet is ours, the armor belongs to Tidal Wave Designs.
Before I press play, is this including the cost of the printer, the learnign curve and the misprints?
Well I hope you pressed play! It does include the cost of the printer, and the vast majority of printers these days are incredibly plug-and-play! Gone are the days of countless misprints on an old CR-10 trying to get the bed levelled properly 😂
@@MjrProps Thanks for the breakdown, although I do feel like I have to complain about one thing, and that's not including the cost of the lenses and tubing that are almost equal to the "50 bucks to make a second one"
@ this file set includes printable tubes, and the lenses can be cheap acetate sheets, or you don’t even need to include them. You are really searching for things to complain about now 😂
@@MjrProps It's the only thing, so that's a good thing ;)
"All the prices in the description below...." Me: Looks in description to find zero prices except for your patreon...