This Made Our Process WAY Faster - How Long Does Sanding a 3D Printed Helmet ACTUALLY Take?
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 ก.พ. 2025
- In this video we use a new filler to test exactly how long it takes me to fill and sand this 3D printed helmet, with NO power tools.
Seymour Filler: amzn.to/3YaKG8u
Master Chief 3D Files: galacticarmory...
Master Chief 3D Prints (same as what I started with): galacticarmory...
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It’s not just about the fillers you use, the quality of the print and the type of materials you print the part in. Which helps speed up the initial sanding. I am happy that you used a helmet with more
details vs a Mando helmet. Definitely going to try out the filler.
That was just my thought. I have to split my helmets in much more pieces, since my printer is small, so i have seams on places that are well visable. And since I then need much more structural integrity because of all the seams, I have to use epoxy...and to sand that down, is just shit :D
And of course, my printer also does not print that smooth, so there is much more sanding anyways...
To compare my worktime with that in the video makes me look dumb as hell, but my starting conditions are just veryyy different.
@@Xuriumhave you considered welding/fusing the pieces instead of epoxy, and then filling the blemishes with bondo? Might not work for every seam but could make for a better sanding experience!
I love that you take the time to mention PPE when handling resin.
I am still traumatized from the videos of people airbrushing resin on their prints (without PPE) 😱😅
Great video! Keep up to good work! 😊
That filler primer is a game changer. Thanks for the recommendation!
2k primer is a game changer.
@@drgta6i would like more info on this 2k primer?👀👀
After watching this video I went ahead and bought myself some and I can easily say....THIS STUFF WORKS SOO GOOD! My previous sanding+priming times were roughly 6-10 hrs (Clone helmet)...now its a measly 2! Thx for the video, it not only has saved me hours of time but money too!
The base for quick sanding definitely starts with the initial 3d print. If you have a lot of visible layer lines that come from a multitude of reasons with 3d printing it will take so much longer to sand, fill and prime. It pays off to have a good printer like the Bambu and any others out there that are just as good. Don't impulse buy like I did lol
Good stuff.
It really comes down to knowing the correct procedure and having the right tools. I sand a lot of my high powered rockets in the same manner.
That being said, 110 minutes is still a lot of sanding.
Technically only about 50 minutues of sanding
That glue + activator sped up my general work time so so much. Thanks for the links in description!
I was just working with that seymour filler primer and its GREAT! Goes down like a fire hose with a wide fan. I usually use Upol but now im going to be using this.
I need me some of that primer. Thank you for this wonderful video
I been working on sandblasting with different media to get rid of the lines and so far I haven't been able to find something that I'm happy with. Plenty of things that would give a beautiful finish but nothing that give a rough sanding to get rid of the lines. One of the best for finishing that was cheap is the fine baking soda you can get from harbor freight.
Love your videos and it's super great to see makers sharing new products and techniques.
Love these videos which helped inspire me to start printing these things, but I would love a Cura tutorial or Cura preset specs for printing these helmets please 👍
Thanks for the recommendation on the Seymour filler! I'll have to give it a try.
Without the beard you look like the more athletic brother of Gabe from Slant3D 😂
Man you're not Linus. You look fine w/o your beard
True
Need to get my hands on that filler primer! Great video!
I've found that 0.2 has become my ideal layer height for balancing quality with time. I printed some small 1x1 bricks at 0.1, 0.15, 0.2, and 0.25 and keep them on my desk for reference while I'm in CAD. The difference in quality between 0.15 and 0.2 is barely noticeable and the time saved is more than worth it.
I've started using this method, I think it's the fastest way I've tried.
-Mouse sand
-acetone and wood filler mix 2:1 ratio applied with brush
-mouse sand
- UV resin
- mouse sand /hand sand in tighter areas
- Filler primer
That gives the smoooooooothest finish I've had personally. Literally all of it dries super fast allowing getting to painting quicker. The acetone and wood filler mix speeds up the process so much the other steps are some that overkill
Same. Almost identical.
I power sand the raw print down with 80, knock down that with a quick 150 and the rest just flies by.
Then, Resin or straight to a filler-primer with some 400/600 combo depending on the build.
Good stuff.
Hey Aaron, longtime fan here. Me and my neighbor found your channel about 4 years ago and we were huge star wars fans. It was the coolest thing we had ever seen and we wanted to get a printer. We were too broke to get one then but now that I have a job, I've gotten 4 of my own printers. Well, I just wanted to say that everyone, including me, want new star wars tutorials. Most of the community now doesn't have a base for how to make a helmet or armor. Please acknowledge my comment!
nice, now I just gotta find taping and latexing methods and I'll be set!
I see some people sand the pla, apply uv resin, and then use spray filler. Others like you apply spray filler first, then uv resin. Does the order of filler/resin matter, or is it person preference?
Also, is there a filament you like printing with more than others?
Master in the house. Love your videos.
Could you try using an elastic band to secure the vacuum to the back of your hand and along your arm (opposite to Spiderman's webslinger lol) so you still had the use of your fingers to grip the piece properly?
New sub. Like the way you work and lay out how you get from A to B. NGLT O.O " looking at all the ridges and delicate details on the Samurai helm is making me anxious
What do you think of gel coat to make helmets stronger. They use it on boats. I see people do it . What do you think.
Came out looking very nice! I gotta pick up my speed after seeing this LOL
I will not be alone with my inner thoughts, THANK YOU VERY MUCH!
That's an awesome job with superb results, the master chief helmet do not appear to be 3d printed. Nicelly done.
That jagged edge at 11:00 at the top of the opening. And the small hint of a line above that is the type of crap I obsess over, which is why sanding stuff takes foreeever for me. I just can't let it go. Currently working on a terminator arm which I'm hoping will get done during my four week vacation, but we'll see, chrome is extremely unforgiving...
Do you ad a black border to your silver scratch distressing or is that black a base coat? Looks awesome!
I'll talk more about it in the finishing video but it's a dark gunmetal base coat then I hand apply bright silver
any tips for using spray cans indoors, large airbrush booths with exhaust to window (basement)? How is your setup configured? Or just take outside even if winter and keep the cans warm and spray fast?
Thx man your input is always helpful
Can you give us a paint list on what paints you used? Sometimes you pass the paint by the screen quickly but its sometimes hard to pause and catch the actual paint can color and brand
With my PRUSA XL I can use .2m layer height and the print comes out ready to prime except for small areas where supports are. I use Bondo glazing putty for those then 3 coats of Rustoleum 2 in 1 filler primer. First sanding pass is wet sand with 320, then another round of primer then wet sand with 600 and it's usually ready to paint. Sometimes a 2nd round out 320 is needed but the PRUSA prints so smooth the sanding / priming is not very taxing. And the build volume enables a MC helmet to be printed as one piece
I hand sand my helmets and my last custom Mando took about 6 hours total, including the visor install, not including letting paint layers dry
Question, I’m pretty new to 3D printing and just now getting to the post processing of my prints. I’ve watched hours and hours of your vids, franklybilt, and several others. I settled on your process including UV Resin.
I noticed on your vids you’ve been doing the UV resin directly onto the raw PLA in your previous versions. But this video you did the primer first and then the Resin.
Question is this: have you adjusted your method to swap those steps or were you just doing it this video as a review for the filler?
Oh my god the big baby is back !
I’m trying out .08 for my helmet. Just to see how good it looks with no sanding
youve used 0.3mm layer height for years? thats criminal! lol
the resin does truly make the difference though, speeds it up by lightyears compared to just filler.
Damn, can’t get Seymour filler in the UK.
I would really love to see 501st CRL approved tutorials
Love the work you guys at Galactic Armory and the filler primer method has been a solid go to for ages. With all respect and hope you dont mind some feedback I was not a fan of the editing or added sound bites of this video, came across rambling and annoyingly distracting in parts.
I get your point, and I agree with your methods, but one thing I think that should be considered is the mental real estate that projects like this tend to have. This is also definitely me making whiny excuses for myself. But the thought of doing the sanding and painting is what prevents me from actually getting it done.
We absolutely get that sometimes it is hard to motivate yourself to even sit down and start sanding! This video is just to help that mental block that may stop you from getting started - it’s not going to take as long as you think! ❤
Do you have a recommendation for a mouse sander? I know you can get attachments for oscillating tools as well.
What glue do you use you say spray glue but not brand
CA Glue with an Activator
How do you guys go about sanding that small crevice in the back of the helmet above the AI Chip spot?
Also, would you say wet sanding or using a powertool is better?
Any affiliated links to the brand of resin and that UV light you use?
I have a print at 0.12 layer height on a Bambu X1C in a nice more matte PETG, do you think spraying it with the Seymour filler primer first would be sufficient before sanding or should I sand it first?
Do you know what UV resin you used in this video? I plan on making a cosplay Master Chief, and it'd be great to know!
How much time do you wait between coats of the seymour? I heard you say 30 minutes, but then I heard you say you can sand in it 30 minutes after you spray it.
You still want to wait 30 minutes for it to cure.
Can you make helghast helmet from killzone series
Aaron do you guys sell that Yoroi halo helmet? It looks amazing
Not yet but shortly!
When sanding, how do you know it’s got enough sanding done before moving on to the next sanding step?
my m12 detail sander is my MVP for sanding. lol
What if you are not set up for SLA Resin? What some alternatives?
Man I just hit any support surface flaws with 80-120 grit to knock them down then do a coat of XTC-3D. 15 minutes and ready to do final paint, you don't even have to prime that crap unless you just really want to.
Great video! Curious how come you've decided having filler primer as your first step after assembly? I recall watching some starwars builds in the past where you always sanded first. Is it mostly to do with the smaller layer lines? Thanks!
I rarely sand raw prints without some kind of filler on it first
@@Levkin unless you have layer shifts or really bad support scarring then yeah you don’t need to sand as a first step
@@GalacticArmoryI was about to ask the same question. This will really cut down the time when my new prints come in.
Hey man, FYI the UV light can actually be pretty bad for your eyes, take care of the peepers and wear UV protecting glasses when using it.
I am headed into my first helmet build and I was thinking I'd sand rougher spots before putting it together. Is this a bad idea?
Man everyone uses that bondo but I can't find that anywhere in europe. Been using fine wood filler.
How many helmets can you do per can of filler primer? I think I'm using too much.
I'm pretty sure bondo is a chemical cocktail that Europeans see as bad for you
@@tatertime Considering that I can buy acetone off the shelves you would think that bondo wouldn't be so bad.
@@nhahtrebor91 I am not sure how acetone is, I know it isn't good, but the warning label on the back of bondo is pretty nuts. Loss of hearing, kidney, liver, eyesight, skin disease, allergies, and reproduction issues. Then there are people who smear that stuff with their bare skin 😫
@@tatertime We use it to clean metal, it's basically an acid and the fumes alone are bad for you let alone it touching your bare skin but still. Wish we had the "good" stuff, I'm just hoping to find a hidden gem that's either just as good or better.
Find it funny that this was a sanding test and even after laying out your ground rules you then admitted you were going to resin print some of the harder parts.. kinda invalidates the test but good video all the same haha 😅😂
I can’t believe you’re not using ABS/ASA and doing vapor-smoothing with some painters tape on the corners you want to stay sharp. You can skip nearly all sanding, you get a perfectly even erase of print-lines and the finish means you can paint directly on the plastic. It’s *the* way if doing any kind of large scale production if you ask me.
I'll give it a shot!
you should make a t-60, t-51, t-45 fallout helmets or even better the whole armor
Sorry if this is a dumb question but what glue and activator do you use?
MITREAPEL Ca Glue with Activator is what we use for everything.
@GalacticArmory thanks so much!
Hi, i was inspired by your cosplay video anout hydrochroming halo visors (BTW. Why do you guys not do that yet?) like it said in the title. I made my own helmet graphics for a DIY kit that i never thought was possible. Hopefully this message finds you well but i have no online store set up as of now. I would like to sell my emile kits with you for a percentage but i have other kits and i doubt my product would line up with your market scope.
We're going to upgrade our hydrochroming setup once we move to the new shop, then maybe we can offer it as a service
with sanding you NEVER skip arm day. just vary the use of each arm or you'll look nuts. in seriousness get some wifi headphones stick them in and start a playlist. you'll not notice time go by. sanding is a pain but it needs to be done
Hi my name is Justin I'm planning on buying one of your animated dc 15 a blasters I've never worked with sanding or painting in fact I've never really done any diy building for props I have zero knowledge of anything what would be some helpful starting information what kind of paint would you recommend I use what is the process I have to do in order for it to be done properly what I'm worried about here is that I'm going to get it I'm going to assemble it and then it is not going to look good because I didn't know what I was doing I just need to know what kind of like basic supplies I need in order to at least make it halfway decent looking dc-15a animated series blaster you're the expert so I just kind of don't know how else to get in contact with you and ask some questions
If you have access to a paint gun and autobody supply shop 2k primer is fantastic. 120, resin, 220, 2k primer, 320 and your pretty much good to go.
Yeah I definitely want to try that in the new shop
What glue do you use for assembly?
MITREAPEL Ca Glue with Activator
@ thanks man !
Seymour Filler alternative for Europe?
I really like UPOL’s filler primer!
New video 🎉
No Jamie 😭
Jamie is working on new stuff 🎉
Why use BOTH bondo and resin? It seems like they’re accomplishing the same thing
Look into using a wood scraper it is crazy fast and makes flat plastic in seconds
Thumsb up counter is at 117....I just cant...break...it...
Do you still use stormprops helmets
Or the 3D files
hmmm so ive learnt a bunch of stuff here
first, i only used 1 coat of filler
annnnd i have been sanding too much, like i use a mouse sander and i essentially sand until i no longer see any more colour from the primer
Yeah that's too much!
Are you doing a master chef cosplay build?!??
I'm definitely tempted!
You look great without the beard bro, the 5 o clock shadow look you have in the vid looks dope
Haven't tried that primer. I usually use Upol and can sand in 5-10 minutes depending on weather. Can't get Upol on Amazon, so that's a benefit to the one you use! I'll likely try it out.
Do you have a suggested UV resin? I use some from anycubic. Wondering if the type of resin would be better with a different type like abs-like or whatever else.
When you went to the spot putty, do you mean you went up to 220g? You started with 120 then said you went up to 120. 😎🤙
Also thanks for the Helldiver files and the videos. I'm in the painting process for my pyromaniac helldiver. I'll show you guys when it's done!
Oh yeah Upol and 2 part pro fillers are great, this is just easily accessible.
Typically translucent from elegoo!
I used 120 on the print with filler, then down to 60 on resin, then back up to 120
You're welcome!
I think the majority of people are not utilizing the resin which increases their time. For people that do not want to use the resin, the best alternative would be Smooth-On XTC-3D.
We dont use that much when we have small details. Its good, but it ruins channels even when you lay it on super thin. Its the self leveling that causes the issue.
Makes sense, it is mostly useful for the larger simple models like a mando helmet etc..
Ok, I see í am dojng this way wrong lol. I have spent hours trying to sand the rough details down, then one layer of filler, then more sanding wet sanding all the grits. It takes me forever.... I am going to try this now, my life would be a lot easier
While the time reduction is certainly impressive there are some big negatives to the Seymour's primer: 1) cost, at $12.95/can vs $7.95/can for Rustolem that can really add up when you're doing things like a full MC build and 2) since it doesn't appear that you use any less than Rustoleum it looks like the only benefit is time savings. When you're making lots of stuff to sell like you do I get it but for people like myself who are just doing individual builds, cost savings is more important than time savings. There is always something I can be doing while I wait the 24 hrs for Rustolem primer to dry ... 😬
No man. Just no. Time is money.
but your print starts looking perfect :(
Oh god that's fast, but your using a lot of material (lots of coat of filler, resin ...) so i guess it's just a compromise between cost and time, i know sanding an helmet take me about a 3 to 4 hour of actual sanding but a can of filler last 3 helmet and i only use modeling paste for critical spots
I used 1 can of filler, a tablespoon of resin, and half a small tube of bondo. Not exactly a high material cost either
Amateur's suggestion: instead of wrangling with that vac hose constantly why not just do all your sanding in front of a fan (perhaps off to one side or above)? This seems like it would especially work well with a garage setup.
@@jimh472 we're working in an enclosed workshop but something like that could work if you're outside or similar
Ah-ah-ah! Where’s your mask when priming/filling? 🤨
20$ of filament and 300$ of primer filler, bondo and paint later.
I don’t know if I can trust you now that you don’t have a beard lol
I wouldn't
Redo this video on an Iron Man or Mando helmet.
Wont use any power tools.
Immediatelly uses a "hand powered" UV light no one has.
Nice.
You're just as handsome with or without the beard. Don' t stress on it. Besides, there onlyones who's opinion really matters is yours and your wife's, and your opinion as stated, is wrong.😊
Trust a gay man when he tells you you're handsome either way, okay?
So disappointed. Started out "baseline.. hand sand.. no power tools" Then add resin printing and resin filling -_- Common lol.
? not sure what you expected
Frankly, saying "it only takes two hours" while timing things out over two weeks is a very disingenuous take on this. Throw out rule two, make this the only project, and that's accurate. Anything else and you are flat out lying. Two cents from a nobody
@@bwloawesome I wasn't waiting on anything but dry times, I could knock it out in 2 days if I could dedicate more time to it
*in a row
you made a video just to flex on your sanding skills? 🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️
Halo is dead! Ha ha ha ha Halo is Dead. Like litteraly! They cancelled TV show, Halo 7 and Microsoft moved 343 from active developement of Halo Infinite.
cool... doesnt mean the helmet isnt cool?
👍😐👍
You look better without the beard...fyi...