I have built buildings my entire life ... usually by myself. i actually enjoy working by myself. You taught me a few new tricks right here. Also, I liked the way you made your video and did the voice-over. Right to the point and the focus is on the job not on you trying to be a movie star. LOL. Thanks for the great video.
Hey thanks so much for the kind words I appreciate that. I enjoy working by myself too. I’m glad if you found a few things that may help your future projects! Happy DIYing. 😊
@@SmartEasyDIYer what about the height at the top of the post? No one talks about the top of the post? Im getting ready to embark on a 36x36 monitor barn. Thanks
You’re welcome. Yeah so the top height is determined by what you want for your wall height. You have to factor in what type of headers you’re using for that as well and figure that into the overall height.
I’m about to build a 50x88 pole barn mostly by myself. Before I watched this I knew it was possible but I still had some doubts. Seeing this video definitely got my head back in the game.
You are a stud-muffin... a man's man. Way to go. Like you, I really enjoy figuring out how to do things on my own, using 2-by "helpers" & reusing long screws, and some good ol-fashioned stick-to-it-ev-ness. Just ask yourself, how did grand-dad do this, and think it through. This is what built civilization. Thanks for a great video!
Very impressive. In the past, I have attached the diagonal brace that goes to the ground to the post while both are laying on the ground. That way, when you lift the post, one end of the brace swings up with the post, while the other end drags along the ground and immediately supports the post when you get it in the hole. A tad heavier but really worked for me. But your 10 foot brace method between posts is absolute brilliance. Well done !!
You saved me with the the simple tip to clamp the levels to the post. It was still challenging to set 6x6 posts by myself, but I got it done. Thank you!!!
Hey awesome!! Glad to hear it. I actually didn’t think of that till later on as you could tell in the video. I wish I would’ve thought of it first thing. Lol they are heavy especially if they’re fresh delivery they’re still so wet. My dad used to call them pond dried. 😁 Great job!! 👍👊
"Lengthy video" *video is 6 minutes while almost all the other vidoes about the subject are more than 20* Very informative video by the way! Thank you!
Thanks for the super clear comments/directions during the video. I learn visually not verbally but once I get a photo I can then follow the words. Both are amazingly clear. You speak and demonstrate to all as though they know nothing about building. That's exactly right. Some teachers speak as if you see the picture in their head. Duh! Excellent video!! I have never built a building before not from lack of experience but from lack of confidence in my ability. Now I can understand exactly what to do. Thanks again!
Hey carol thanks so much for letting me know! That means a lot. I’m glad if it helped to see a visual. That’s what I love about video too. I wish you the best with whatever projects you have planned! 😊
great work ... I have no friends either & enjoy hard work & doing it myself anyway. About to order a 12X45X50 kit from Backwoods N FLA so hope to instant-replay this videos this year!
I’m getn ready to start a tractor shed , this video is just what I needed , great job , my b’day is also in August , Thankyou for sharing , May God Bless
This video is great. I thank you for taking the time to share. I am a a bachelor living in a rural area, and have only myself to rely on. I am educated in school of hard knocks and respect you for lessoning my hard knocks lol. subscribed!
Awesome man!! 👌 very good info. I work by myself doing projects most of the time. I'm almost 53 years old and have been doin construction projects off and on for a living and as side projects and I learned a few things from watching your video!! Thank you very much and God bless from TN!
Thanks for the post Paul! I found your channel when I needed to change batteries in my Galaxy S5 and there you were! Now I'm getting a kick out of watching you do hard labor. Congratulations on your three boys, by the way. You and the Mrs. will surely do a good job bringing 'em up right.
Hey thanks for the comment I really appreciate it! That’s funny that you found me on both. It’s kinda the dilemma I’m in with my channel I like doing both phones and some of this type of stuff but I’m wondering if I should have 2 different channels for different type of content. I really would like to just keep one since it’s hard to start over with all the videos I’ve done on either subject. My idea was to maybe try to tear down one smart phone each month in the middle of the month and do some other DIY type videos otherwise but I’m so busy it’s really hard to keep to that schedule. Anyways I appreciate hearing from you thanks for the encouragement! 👍👊
Those were some great points I hadn't thought of at all. This Spring Break I'm building a pole barn/shed. Thank you so much for the info. Really a blessing!!
Well done! A lot of little tips that just make sense. I should be starting a 40 x 40 teardown and rebuild project this winter/spring and was looking at ideas on solo build tips. I really like the way you took just a few moments to explain WHY you did some of the things and moreover, HOW they help. Perfect example, and doh moment for me, was the lumber you use to twist the post. I can totally see me trying to get it dead on line before attaching that lumber instead of being smart and using the 2x4 to twist with lol. There are a lot of good ideas there for the solo artist, I appreciate you taking the time to film things and share.
Follow me on Instagram instagram.com/smarteasydiy/ So this video isn’t a debate of whether to set the posts in concrete or gravel etc. It’s just to show the things I did to set posts by myself. You can backfill them however you researched and is best for you. Also all the 2x4s I’m putting on are temporary bracing. I would never stagger them back and forth for permanent nailers. Thanks
Thank you sir you' were very helpful. I've sat many posts as a young man but once you get to be my age you seem to lose the knowledge that you once had! I really appreciate you thank you very much!.. great! video!!
Good video. I live by myself and do a lot of things by myself. I 've been debating putting up a pole shed by myself. There's definitely little tricks that make it much easier for the soloist.
Thanks! Great tips. I'm about to set fourteen 8x8x20's and they are HEAVY. I plan to pick them up with the FEL on the tractor with the forks and a sling to set them in the hole but was trying to think of the best way to brace them until I got them set. This seems like the best way.
Yeah those are tall and heavy!! We did those before with a skid steer. Same idea. I think tractor sounds like a good plan as much as possible. You may need to brace them higher according since you got so much more height. Best of luck with your project! Thanks for the comment.
Good video man.. have done this several buildings myself… I’m glad to see that I’m not the only one doing it.. your 100% right tho … def works and gets better on every post every job
Thanks Chippy! It’s gives some ideas at least even if you do gravel or dirt instead or concrete in holes or concrete piers and wet set brackets. Each to their own on that.
@@SmartEasyDIYer Indeed. Are you going to show how you do the spanning please? So far as I can see, this will be an issue here. Thanks very much. Stay well.
Thanks. I’m not quite sure what you mean by spanning. In my pole barn house video series I do show how I set the trusses. I did the style where it sits directly on top of the posts. If you search for setting trusses on the pole barn house it should come up.
Great Video. I'm going to build a rough pole barn structure to store firewood over the summer so it doesn't have to be fancy, but needs the base structure to be solid. This will help me get the 4x4s set with minimal help. Thanks again and great job on this. Very informative.
I built my 24 x 40 pole barn myself, but didn't have any help from videos, but, I did learn some of your tricks. One thing I noticed, you also did, was not go with a 6x6 (which can twist pretty quick. ) I did what you did, I used 4 pieces of 2 x 6, starting from underground I used 4 different lengths of .40 PT, (later was KD) also used a nail gun with stainless nails to start the post, regular nails above ground. I didn't build it all the way up though, would have been to heavy to handle alone. I also turned the post 90 degrees, that way, when I got to the side wall tops, the top beam was riding on the 2 inner posts, and I used the other 2 outer posts to lock it in place. I used a water level, (although a newer laser would be easier. The side wall beams were straight and square, and that was when I finished putting up the rest of the KD 2x6's, and trimmed at the top. At that point, while waiting to have a concrete floor poured, I drilled and installed large lag bolts every foot. I also went 8' on center, I was planning on a long life time of use.
Wow that’s awesome great job!! I actually bought my posts this way already made but I have heard of other people building their own too. That works out well. You are correct these do stay straighter and also their dimensional One Direction if you want to use them in a 5 1/2 inch stud wall like I did
Casually speaking, well done video with exact explanations to the novice builder. Furthermore, let's applaud how many questions hes continued to answer. Helper much? ( see how I managed my own q)
I'm in the middle of a 36' x 48' post frame build by myself. I went with poured piers with brackets this time - its coming along real nicely. When I built a post frame horse run-in, I had the posts in the ground, but I put concrete pucks in the bottoms of the holes on top of the gravel. Otherwise very similar 😊
Pre cast concrete pads or composite are standard installation procedure as they provide a bigger footprint for the building to sit on also cleats need be attached to bottom of post in your case to attach it to the poured concrete. Or in a gravel or dirt backfill prevent uplift.
I’m a total beginner, except for some shelves that I built for the garage in the cellar. But I’ve got to get this greenhouse built. I’m just having problems lining up the holes. I’ve only got six post to set, but again, I am doing it by myself also. I had dug out all my post holes and gotten ready to start putting the gravel in the bottom and making sure the boards were going to fit so when the finished product I could close it up and all the corners would meet correctly and then realized it for three hours a day it was in the shade. I can’t have that during the winter, so I had to move the greenhouse. It’s a learning curve.
Wow sorry to hear all that hard work for not being able to use that location. I’m sure you’ll find a better spot. I’m proud of you for not giving up! I hope your projects keep going better.
You may have thought of this already: we had to build a fence with posts in very rich top soil. So, to delay deterioration, first thing we did was to soak one end of each post in a wood preservative like the Cuprinol product. We used old gallon cans and put about one inch of preservative in each can, which is "wicked" up into the core of each post overnight. Then, before setting the posts, we marked the grade level on each post, and then coated the end of the post that contacts concrete with asphalt emulsion. Asphalt emulsion is a liquid that paints on with a paint brush. Even if the bottom end of a post touches soil, the asphalt emulsion dries into an excellent water vapor. I would recommend doing this, even if you are using pressure-treated posts, in order to add extra longevity to a key point of failure.
Yep, we save all the motor oil from tractor, dirt bikes, truck whatever and whenever we set fence posts they all get painted with old oil before going into the ground. Works great and is free.
I did 150mm larch posts to hold 2 large gates, first I charred them deeply with a blowtorch then I coated them in bitumen paint twice. Larch in particular doesn't rot in the ground very fast. Also I always tamp in a few large stones around the post, and that actually helps with adjustments and holds the post up without braces. You can use 2 smaller braces to help you hold the post up. I also would have cut a groove in the top of all of the posts I guess 8x3, to take a beam running through the top of them. You can screw on buttresses on the beam before you lift it to hold the post tops exactly in the right place before concreting.
I love the way you filmed and narrated the video, it reminds me of "Adventures with Bill" from "The Red Green Show" brings back memories :-) only difference is you're not breaking things lol
Awesome video. Just what I needed to get me excited to build my pole barn. Found 9 6 x 6 pressure treated beams in my back woods. Great condition - ready for a barn.
I'm here I found six pressure-treated 6x6s as well. In the backwoods in perfect condition. Looks like a lot of ambitious pole barn folks that never get started. I imagine you can pour a pad and set the beams right on top of the pad? I've seen that done before but any tips there?
I'm the same way.. only thing I would say is attached your spikes first that way it's easy to get your vertical done any quicker fashion. Happy Birthday
My birthday is in July but I done got to old to be building pole barns in July in southwest TN with the humidity and heat index. Hoping to have it in the dry before the end of June 🤞
Great video. How much do you love that bar! I've never seen anyone else use one. I use mine for everything, almost everyday. Absolutely great way to work, really appreciate you sharing your knowledge.
Yeah pretty much. I did 10 foot spacing’s except for where there were windows and doors in the way I had to do 8 foot spacing in one section and then yes the last post section came out just 6 feet because of the length we chose.
Man I wish I had seen sooner. I use electrical tape to mark either side of where my post will go, vs. String I set my posts in pairs as far as using the 2x4 for spacing So they are all at the same elevation. Then I go back and tie them together with the one s i lack this means. no screws to hold board and one last chance to fudge if need be. Folks should def crown the beams and use the nicest posts for corners, doors and windows if applicable. I like to also add lags is the post where it goes into concrete so any shrinking of wood / concrete will not dislodge. Also I agree with above comment and cleats. I like to run them perpendicular to how the other bracing is or similar to how you did corners and run parallel to above braces but tight to ground i stand on them with them tight to post and screw. Also a framing gun or auto feed drill saves time especially on temporary support. I understand and agree with screws on ALL permanent applications but bracing, etc… nail that bad boy. one hand action. Right up your alley. 🎉
A lot of added work in my opinion. Twenty years ago I built my pole barn. To start with you don't need to make the holes much larger than the size of the post unless you plan of filling in with concrete. Next unless you plan on cutting off the tops later to make them the same height you need a transit to make sure all your holes are exactly the same depth elevation wise. Drop your post in the hole, back fill and tamp while using a level to hold the post straight and not letting it twist. Once the hole is tamped down well the post will not move and you can start putting the girts in place. Either use a nail gun or predrill your hole for screws through the girts. All my posts are set directly into the ground. The inside posts are surrounded with a concrete floor but I took the time to wrap each post in visclean and partially drove nails into each post in the two inches above the ground to anchor the posts in the concrete while keeping the concrete from contacting the treated posts as concrete here tends to eat away at the posts over a few years.
Thanks for the comment. Yeah that’s we used to do it too when we just set them in the dirt. It works good if you have 2 ppl. I found It’s hard to do it that way without bracing when working by yourself. Maybe you can do it ok. But yes also if you’re doing concrete in the holes you need to keep it braced till it sets up. I appreciate the comment it’s all about sharing ideas 😊
@@SmartEasyDIYer Your construction looks great I simply meant that for those sitting posts in dirt your holes should be only a little bit larger than the post. Put one end of the post in the hole and lift the post until it slides in. Then add dirt as leveling the post with each addition until the hole is filled. Then tamp and keep leveling and you should end up with a level post without need for bracing although I did check the level at the addition of the girts to keep them straight. My barn is twenty years old now and no failures so far. Three thousand sq ft. Half inside with a cement floor and half as sheds outside with dirt floors to park equipment on.
I have my first corner post in the ground 3-2x6 laminated. Im wanting to do 8 ft apart. Do i measure from outside corner of set post to outside corner of new post to make it 8ft? An 8 ft board wouldnt nail to it then unless i moved it to center of first post. But then it gives a gap of no wood on first post where 2x4 is started on center.
Yeah, I know what you mean. Usually you have to go 1 1/2” undersized on the overall post spacing to account for the nailer that goes on the outside yet.
I just use the string line and and a sledge hammer and level to set post. Move the post at ground level while plumbing. One kicker. One screw to move my post to plumb.
Thanks for the tips and demonstration. I'll definitely use your suggestions when putting up my much simpler woodshed, because I'll be working by myself. I prefer it that way, too. Keep up the good work!
Are you able to tell me how big the footers were. I’m going to be building some thing similar and don’t know how wide or deep to do the concrete for the posts
All depends how you wanna do it. I went 1-1/2” under 10’ so that accounted for the wall girts outside the wall to be included in the full 10’ if that makes sense.
My project Is a 20 by 24 car port.. I am going with a flat roof and no walls on the side.. I was thinking 3 4 by 4 is on the front, 3 for the middle and 3 for the back. The middle row would be 12 foot on center using 2 by 8 to support the OSB. Just trying to figure out the best way to make sure. All the 4 by 4's are in line. Wondering if I have to Bury 2 foot of 4 by 4 in the concrete. Or can I put down a concrete pad or a pillar and let the wood sit on top of that? I need 8 foot of clearance to back my truck underneath it. any suggestions
Yes, I don’t know if you have snow load to consider but it seems like for the 24 foot section if that is loadbearing, I would go every 8 feet if it’s not in loadbearing 12 feet should be sufficient. I think if I did it again, I would pour the concrete pier 1st and use a wet set bracket on top. You do have to do more bracing in the walls but you can build some permanent cross bracing going in either direction that should stiffen it up a lot.
@@SmartEasyDIYer I appreciate the response. I really have no idea what I want to do. That's why I watch these videos for inspiration. I am basically trying to put a 6 by 12 single axle trailer and a pickup truck under cover on the back of my garage working with 40 ft left to right and 24 ft deep as far as an open area. I guess I'm talking flat roof so I can chicken out of trying to work a Gable. I guess if I did 20 ft wide and 20 ft deep I could use 12 Footers as the rafters. That would obviously help with snow load as I do live in the Maryland region we don't get a lot of snow but there's always that potential.
Hands down best video for setting/bracing 6x6's. My only question is...the stake you screwed through, what kind of stake was that and did you pre-drill it?
Thank you for letting me know!! They’re just round stakes that I got from Home Depot or Lowe’s. They already have holes in them every so many inches on all sides towards the top made for nails or screws. Thanks
Yes these are called laminated columns. It’s nice because in one direction they are dimensional 5 1/2 so it works perfect for 2 x 6 wall. They are lighter and straighter than a normal 6 x 6.
I'm doing it your way if i keep getting no response from builders just building service agency's. On SPACING; 36x36 would you go 12ft between posts or 9 ft being 36x36. I will start in three months 7 29 2022. This video is the one hurdle I WAS up against but no more! THANX Your Trusses . What do you have on that next?
So for the load bearing sides I would go shorter span rather than longer. It depends what style you do. If you header across the tops of the post and set your trusses on those like every 2-4’ or if you double up your trusses and set on top of the post directly. it might depend on how your trusses are engineered for loadbearing. If you’re getting your own trusses you could talk to a truss company and determine that. Depends on snow load etc if you live in a area that gets snow. I do have one on setting trusses but I did this style where I doubled up the center trusses and set them directly on top of the post and purlins on edge in between which is very common in the west. In the East it’s very common to do the header style and put 2x4 purlins flat on top.
Good video thank you. I'm building my house and most days I'm by myself. On your birthday it would have been nice to have a lady friend "set your post". Thanks again
Hahahahaha yeah. Who knows it may have happened since it was my birthday. It’s been such a busy year it’s hard to remember that far back. Building your own house takes up any free time you have. Good luck with your project!
Yes you just make sure they tall enough for the height you want especially if you have a low corner where you’re going to be bringing in fill but then you cut them off later yes.
What are your posts called? Did you make them or do lumber yard carry them. They look pressure treated 2/3s or so up then untreated above. Are your posts stronger than solid posts? They probably won’t twist or warp.
Yes they’re called laminated columns. There’s different places that make them. The company I used is called triad. They’re based in Montana. You are correct it’s treated below grade and untreated above grade. It’s all glued and nailed together. Stronger straighter and lighter. Loved them.
For just one second I thought I watching a Red / Green show. And of course the handyman secret weapon ",Duct Tape" would have been handy in a couple instances. I kept waiting for Harold to jump in come over and knock over 3- 4 of the post
Yes they were made by a company called triad. There’s different companies that do that but they are laminated and nailed together. I believe the reason is so they are straighter and lighter. Also in my situation they were dimensional going the one Direction to fit inside of a regular stud wall. Regular 6 x 6 in my area are rough cut full 6 inch so too big.
Yes it would be much better. I just didn’t have that option and wanted to show how I did it for someone else who doesn’t have help either to show it’s do-able with a little planning ahead. Thanks.
I appreciate you not making this an hour long, well done
Thanks 😊
I have built buildings my entire life ... usually by myself. i actually enjoy working by myself. You taught me a few new tricks right here. Also, I liked the way you made your video and did the voice-over. Right to the point and the focus is on the job not on you trying to be a movie star. LOL. Thanks for the great video.
Hey thanks so much for the kind words I appreciate that. I enjoy working by myself too. I’m glad if you found a few things that may help your future projects! Happy DIYing. 😊
Thanks. 2 going same direction?
@@SmartEasyDIYer what about the height at the top of the post? No one talks about the top of the post? Im getting ready to embark on a 36x36 monitor barn. Thanks
You’re welcome. Yeah so the top height is determined by what you want for your wall height. You have to factor in what type of headers you’re using for that as well and figure that into the overall height.
@@SmartEasyDIYer thanks
Clamping the level to the post is absolutely genius
Thanks. I wish I would’ve discovered it sooner.
Hey, I just set six posts using your techniques. It made it an easy task. THANK YOU.
Thank you and great job!
I’m about to build a 50x88 pole barn mostly by myself. Before I watched this I knew it was possible but I still had some doubts. Seeing this video definitely got my head back in the game.
Awesome there’s lots of different ways to go about it but that’s just a few ideas. Good luck with it!
You are a stud-muffin... a man's man. Way to go. Like you, I really enjoy figuring out how to do things on my own, using 2-by "helpers" & reusing long screws, and some good ol-fashioned stick-to-it-ev-ness. Just ask yourself, how did grand-dad do this, and think it through. This is what built civilization. Thanks for a great video!
Thank you! Sometimes you have to think differently when you work alone. Good luck with all your projects!
Good job bloke. Well spoken no rambling. Easy to follow.
Thanks Matt I appreciate that. 🙏
Very impressive. In the past, I have attached the diagonal brace that goes to the ground to the post while both are laying on the ground. That way, when you lift the post, one end of the brace swings up with the post, while the other end drags along the ground and immediately supports the post when you get it in the hole. A tad heavier but really worked for me. But your 10 foot brace method between posts is absolute brilliance. Well done !!
Thank you! Getting that first corner post set is the hardest for sure. Sounds like you had a good plan too. 👍
You saved me with the the simple tip to clamp the levels to the post. It was still challenging to set 6x6 posts by myself, but I got it done. Thank you!!!
Hey awesome!! Glad to hear it. I actually didn’t think of that till later on as you could tell in the video. I wish I would’ve thought of it first thing. Lol they are heavy especially if they’re fresh delivery they’re still so wet. My dad used to call them pond dried. 😁 Great job!! 👍👊
Well done and Happy Birthday . I am seeing this 6 years after you uploaded it but anyways Happy Birthday again .
Thank you I appreciate it! 😁👍🏻
Me, too. Didn't notice that. Oh well, it's still helping me.
Awesome! Thanks
"Lengthy video"
*video is 6 minutes while almost all the other vidoes about the subject are more than 20*
Very informative video by the way! Thank you!
Thanks 😁
Thanks for the super clear comments/directions during the video. I learn visually not verbally but once I get a photo I can then follow the words. Both are amazingly clear. You speak and demonstrate to all as though they know nothing about building. That's exactly right. Some teachers speak as if you see the picture in their head. Duh! Excellent video!! I have never built a building before not from lack of experience but from lack of confidence in my ability. Now I can understand exactly what to do. Thanks again!
Hey carol thanks so much for letting me know! That means a lot. I’m glad if it helped to see a visual. That’s what I love about video too. I wish you the best with whatever projects you have planned! 😊
great work ... I have no friends either & enjoy hard work & doing it myself anyway. About to order a 12X45X50 kit from Backwoods N FLA so hope to instant-replay this videos this year!
Awesome I wish you the best with your project! Thanks
I’m getn ready to start a tractor shed , this video is just what I needed , great job , my b’day is also in August , Thankyou for sharing , May God Bless
Hey that’s awesome I’m glad it helped. Thanks for letting me know! Best of luck with your project!!
This video is great. I thank you for taking the time to share. I am a a bachelor living in a rural area, and have only myself to rely on. I am educated in school of hard knocks and respect you for lessoning my hard knocks lol. subscribed!
Haha thanks I appreciate that! Thanks for the support. I’m glad if it helped give you some ideas. That was my hope in making this. 😊
Awesome man!! 👌 very good info. I work by myself doing projects most of the time. I'm almost 53 years old and have been doin construction projects off and on for a living and as side projects and I learned a few things from watching your video!! Thank you very much and God bless from TN!
Thank you I appreciate it!
Nothing beats a gang.....great work man! we have all been left alone and the work needs to get done! cant keep babysitting the crew
Hahahahaha yes. Sometimes too you gotta do it yourself so it’s done right. 😁
Thanks for the post Paul! I found your channel when I needed to change batteries in my Galaxy S5 and there you were! Now I'm getting a kick out of watching you do hard labor. Congratulations on your three boys, by the way. You and the Mrs. will surely do a good job bringing 'em up right.
Hey thanks for the comment I really appreciate it! That’s funny that you found me on both. It’s kinda the dilemma I’m in with my channel I like doing both phones and some of this type of stuff but I’m wondering if I should have 2 different channels for different type of content. I really would like to just keep one since it’s hard to start over with all the videos I’ve done on either subject. My idea was to maybe try to tear down one smart phone each month in the middle of the month and do some other DIY type videos otherwise but I’m so busy it’s really hard to keep to that schedule. Anyways I appreciate hearing from you thanks for the encouragement! 👍👊
Those were some great points I hadn't thought of at all. This Spring Break I'm building a pole barn/shed. Thank you so much for the info. Really a blessing!!
Awesome thanks I’m glad it was helpful. Best of luck with your project!!
Well done! A lot of little tips that just make sense. I should be starting a 40 x 40 teardown and rebuild project this winter/spring and was looking at ideas on solo build tips. I really like the way you took just a few moments to explain WHY you did some of the things and moreover, HOW they help. Perfect example, and doh moment for me, was the lumber you use to twist the post. I can totally see me trying to get it dead on line before attaching that lumber instead of being smart and using the 2x4 to twist with lol. There are a lot of good ideas there for the solo artist, I appreciate you taking the time to film things and share.
Thanks I appreciate the feedback. I’m glad it will hopefully be helpful with your project! Good luck going forward.
Excellent. Casually focussed, I really like that.
Thank you Mr Campbell.
Follow me on Instagram instagram.com/smarteasydiy/
So this video isn’t a debate of whether to set the posts in concrete or gravel etc. It’s just to show the things I did to set posts by myself. You can backfill them however you researched and is best for you. Also all the 2x4s I’m putting on are temporary bracing. I would never stagger them back and forth for permanent nailers. Thanks
Watched many home buildings videos. But yours is the best
Thanks squeek I really appreciate that! 😊👊
Thank you sir you' were very helpful. I've sat many posts as a young man but once you get to be my age you seem to lose the knowledge that you once had! I really appreciate you thank you very much!.. great! video!!
Thank you I appreciate the comment!
Good video. I live by myself and do a lot of things by myself. I 've been debating putting up a pole shed by myself. There's definitely little tricks that make it much easier for the soloist.
Thanks I appreciate that. I wish you the best on your project!
Thanks! Great tips. I'm about to set fourteen 8x8x20's and they are HEAVY. I plan to pick them up with the FEL on the tractor with the forks and a sling to set them in the hole but was trying to think of the best way to brace them until I got them set. This seems like the best way.
Yeah those are tall and heavy!! We did those before with a skid steer. Same idea. I think tractor sounds like a good plan as much as possible. You may need to brace them higher according since you got so much more height. Best of luck with your project! Thanks for the comment.
Used it. I finally made a jig to hold the two by fours in place. Works very well. Thanks!
Awesome good for you!! 👊
Impressive video! Great imagery, excellently narrated, got yourself a follow.
Thank you I appreciate that!
Good video man.. have done this several buildings myself… I’m glad to see that I’m not the only one doing it.. your 100% right tho … def works and gets better on every post every job
Thanks I appreciate it! Good luck on your projects. 👍🏻
Smart cookie. Thank you. I built the first part of my deck last year. This year it's a much needed garage first. Great tips. Thank you, stay well 👍
Thanks Chippy! It’s gives some ideas at least even if you do gravel or dirt instead or concrete in holes or concrete piers and wet set brackets. Each to their own on that.
@@SmartEasyDIYer Indeed. Are you going to show how you do the spanning please? So far as I can see, this will be an issue here.
Thanks very much. Stay well.
Thanks. I’m not quite sure what you mean by spanning. In my pole barn house video series I do show how I set the trusses. I did the style where it sits directly on top of the posts. If you search for setting trusses on the pole barn house it should come up.
Great Video. I'm going to build a rough pole barn structure to store firewood over the summer so it doesn't have to be fancy, but needs the base structure to be solid. This will help me get the 4x4s set with minimal help.
Thanks again and great job on this. Very informative.
Awesome man thanks! Good luck with your project!
Happy Birthday! Great video-I am sure I will be watching you a lot in the coming months. Thank you!
Thank you!
I built my 24 x 40 pole barn myself, but didn't have any help from videos, but, I did learn some of your tricks. One thing I noticed, you also did, was not go with a 6x6 (which can twist pretty quick. ) I did what you did, I used 4 pieces of 2 x 6, starting from underground I used 4 different lengths of .40 PT, (later was KD) also used a nail gun with stainless nails to start the post, regular nails above ground. I didn't build it all the way up though, would have been to heavy to handle alone. I also turned the post 90 degrees, that way, when I got to the side wall tops, the top beam was riding on the 2 inner posts, and I used the other 2 outer posts to lock it in place. I used a water level, (although a newer laser would be easier. The side wall beams were straight and square, and that was when I finished putting up the rest of the KD 2x6's, and trimmed at the top. At that point, while waiting to have a concrete floor poured, I drilled and installed large lag bolts every foot. I also went 8' on center, I was planning on a long life time of use.
Wow that’s awesome great job!! I actually bought my posts this way already made but I have heard of other people building their own too. That works out well. You are correct these do stay straighter and also their dimensional One Direction if you want to use them in a 5 1/2 inch stud wall like I did
I helped my neighbor a few years ago but used pea rock instead on concrete to fill around post. Worked great!
Awesome! Yes I’ve seen that too. Different areas people do it differently
very informative thank you so much. building a car port for the first time and learning all i can. this helped a lot
Thank you! Good luck on your car port!
Nice. They make a level for posts that wraps around 2 sides that you put on the post with a rubber band that’s pretty handy.
Thanks. Yes the ones I saw are very short tho so you don’t get accurate reading of the overall post. Ok for fence posts but not a building.
Casually speaking, well done video with exact explanations to the novice builder. Furthermore, let's applaud how many questions hes continued to answer. Helper much? ( see how I managed my own q)
Thanks I really appreciate the feedback. I’m glad if it was helpful to give some ideas. (I see that yes) 😁
Super thorough tutorial..easy to understand your a God instructor I learned alot..thanks brother 🙂✊🏽✊🏽
Thank you! I’m glad if it helped. 😊
Excellent, I’m always having to do things by myself . This is really good info.
I know all about it. lol. Thanks!
I helped a friend and we used a bag on concrete in the bottom of hole and filled the hole with pea rock all the way to top of hole. Works great
Yeah I’ve done something similar as well. There’s quite a few ways that people do it it seems. Thanks
I'm in the middle of a 36' x 48' post frame build by myself. I went with poured piers with brackets this time - its coming along real nicely. When I built a post frame horse run-in, I had the posts in the ground, but I put concrete pucks in the bottoms of the holes on top of the gravel. Otherwise very similar 😊
Sounds like a nice project. I’ll probably do the concrete pier and wet set bracket next time too. 👍
@@SmartEasyDIYer I've done it both ways, and the wet-set pies is definitely the way to go. Look forward to seeing the other videos in this series!
Thanks and best of luck!
Pre cast concrete pads or composite are standard installation procedure as they provide a bigger footprint for the building to sit on also cleats need be attached to bottom of post in your case to attach it to the poured concrete. Or in a gravel or dirt backfill prevent uplift.
Great tips for the single-hander in this series, thanks! Did you realise this episode is missing from the playlist?
Thank you! Yes I think I didn’t have it included since I had made it prior to the series.
Using this as a reference before starting our greenhouse project. Thank you for the tutorial.
Awesome. Best of luck with your project!
I’m a total beginner, except for some shelves that I built for the garage in the cellar. But I’ve got to get this greenhouse built. I’m just having problems lining up the holes. I’ve only got six post to set, but again, I am doing it by myself also. I had dug out all my post holes and gotten ready to start putting the gravel in the bottom and making sure the boards were going to fit so when the finished product I could close it up and all the corners would meet correctly and then realized it for three hours a day it was in the shade. I can’t have that during the winter, so I had to move the greenhouse. It’s a learning curve.
Wow sorry to hear all that hard work for not being able to use that location. I’m sure you’ll find a better spot. I’m proud of you for not giving up! I hope your projects keep going better.
This is a very helpful video. I will be building a pole barn in the future. Most likely by myself. Great video!
Thank you good luck with your build!
Awesome video with great tips. - 2x4 and clamps like third and fourth hands! Thank you!
Thanks! Yes that can add some hands. 😁
You may have thought of this already: we had to build a fence with posts in very rich top soil. So, to delay deterioration, first thing we did was to soak one end of each post in a wood preservative like the Cuprinol product. We used old gallon cans and put about one inch of preservative in each can, which is "wicked" up into the core of each post overnight. Then, before setting the posts, we marked the grade level on each post, and then coated the end of the post that contacts concrete with asphalt emulsion. Asphalt emulsion is a liquid that paints on with a paint brush. Even if the bottom end of a post touches soil, the asphalt emulsion dries into an excellent water vapor. I would recommend doing this, even if you are using pressure-treated posts, in order to add extra longevity to a key point of failure.
doorper sheep
Used motor oil is good for this
I built a drive way out of old R&R ties. My son says they will rot. I told him NOT IN HIS LIFE TIME.
Yep, we save all the motor oil from tractor, dirt bikes, truck whatever and whenever we set fence posts they all get painted with old oil before going into the ground. Works great and is free.
I did 150mm larch posts to hold 2 large gates, first I charred them deeply with a blowtorch then I coated them in bitumen paint twice. Larch in particular doesn't rot in the ground very fast.
Also I always tamp in a few large stones around the post, and that actually helps with adjustments and holds the post up without braces. You can use 2 smaller braces to help you hold the post up.
I also would have cut a groove in the top of all of the posts I guess 8x3, to take a beam running through the top of them. You can screw on buttresses on the beam before you lift it to hold the post tops exactly in the right place before concreting.
Thanks for the video. I need a 16 foot tall pole barn so hopefully, I will be able to pull this off.
You’re welcome. That will be tall! You may need a tractor or something to set them in the hole. I hope it goes well!
i've learned quite a few tips and tricks from you sir thanks very much
Awesome I appreciate that! Glad to hear it! 👍👊
Thank you sir, i plan on starting my pole barn within a month, 40x60 by myself. I did a floating slab with wet set pole brackets.
Awesome good for you!! I’d probably do something similar if I did it again. Especially with how rocky my ground was.. all the best!
Nice! At least in 15 yrs you won't have to worry about your polls rotten through and have replace.
With music and narration this sounds like the Red Green Show!
I’ve heard that before! 😁
Good info! I find myself doing everything by myself too... Subscribed.
Awesome thanks I appreciate that! Have fun with your projects. Take care.
Great instructional video. You out in a lot of detail
Thank you!
I love the way you filmed and narrated the video, it reminds me of "Adventures with Bill" from "The Red Green Show" brings back memories :-) only difference is you're not breaking things lol
Hahaha thanks. Yeah I try not to break things if I can help it. That was a fun show though!
I havent heard anyone reference "the red green show" in years
Awesome video. Just what I needed to get me excited to build my pole barn. Found 9 6 x 6 pressure treated beams in my back woods. Great condition - ready for a barn.
Awesome! I wish you the best with it!!
I'm here I found six pressure-treated 6x6s as well. In the backwoods in perfect condition. Looks like a lot of ambitious pole barn folks that never get started. I imagine you can pour a pad and set the beams right on top of the pad? I've seen that done before but any tips there?
Wow you’re back! Yeah so depending on your frost depth you could do concrete piers and set them on that.
@@shadricosuave sure wish I lived near your backwoods so I could find some big posts in perfect condition just lying around. 😂😂😂
Thank you so much. This is no easy task when just starting out. Hope you get megaviews!
Thank you Jim I appreciate the support!
I'm the same way.. only thing I would say is attached your spikes first that way it's easy to get your vertical done any quicker fashion. Happy Birthday
Thank you!
My birthday is in July but I done got to old to be building pole barns in July in southwest TN with the humidity and heat index. Hoping to have it in the dry before the end of June 🤞
Good for you! Happy upcoming bday! 😊
Great DIY, i've been thinking about this for sometime then bam! You popped up! Canadian?
Thanks! No not Canadian although I’ve heard that before a few times. Lol
Very helpful and nicely done video. Thanks for sharing your method.
Thanks for the comment. 😊
Thank you for all the work making this kickass video man! I'll save time and $!
You’re welcome I’m glad you liked it.
Great video. How much do you love that bar! I've never seen anyone else use one. I use mine for everything, almost everyday. Absolutely great way to work, really appreciate you sharing your knowledge.
Thank you so much! Yes I use it all the time if I’m doing dirt work especially.
I like the triangle brace.
👍
Thanks. I like that method too it really holds it solid.
Happy Birthday again..a year later...The video is very informative!
Hey thank you! 😁
Hey bro can you put the supports on before setting? Just make it loose so until you're committed
You can try if it’s not in your way too much or causes you any problems. Might as well experiment. 😊
Very well put together video, easy to follow
Thanks Sean!
If you are doing them on 10ft centers are your four corner post (or just two) different measurements on center to obtain the desired length of barn
Yeah pretty much. I did 10 foot spacing’s except for where there were windows and doors in the way I had to do 8 foot spacing in one section and then yes the last post section came out just 6 feet because of the length we chose.
Man I wish I had seen sooner. I use electrical tape to mark either side of where my post will go, vs. String I set my posts in pairs as far as using the 2x4 for spacing So they are all at the same elevation. Then I go back and tie them together with the one s i lack this means. no screws to hold board and one last chance to fudge if need be. Folks should def crown the beams and use the nicest posts for corners, doors and windows if applicable. I like to also add lags is the post where it goes into concrete so any shrinking of wood / concrete will not dislodge. Also I agree with above comment and cleats. I like to run them perpendicular to how the other bracing is or similar to how you did corners and run parallel to above braces but tight to ground i stand on them with them tight to post and screw. Also a framing gun or auto feed drill saves time especially on temporary support. I understand and agree with screws on ALL permanent applications but bracing, etc… nail that bad boy. one hand action. Right up your alley. 🎉
Thank you! Sounds like you got a system figured out that works for you.
A lot of added work in my opinion. Twenty years ago I built my pole barn. To start with you don't need to make the holes much larger than the size of the post unless you plan of filling in with concrete. Next unless you plan on cutting off the tops later to make them the same height you need a transit to make sure all your holes are exactly the same depth elevation wise. Drop your post in the hole, back fill and tamp while using a level to hold the post straight and not letting it twist. Once the hole is tamped down well the post will not move and you can start putting the girts in place. Either use a nail gun or predrill your hole for screws through the girts. All my posts are set directly into the ground. The inside posts are surrounded with a concrete floor but I took the time to wrap each post in visclean and partially drove nails into each post in the two inches above the ground to anchor the posts in the concrete while keeping the concrete from contacting the treated posts as concrete here tends to eat away at the posts over a few years.
Thanks for the comment. Yeah that’s we used to do it too when we just set them in the dirt. It works good if you have 2 ppl. I found It’s hard to do it that way without bracing when working by yourself. Maybe you can do it ok. But yes also if you’re doing concrete in the holes you need to keep it braced till it sets up. I appreciate the comment it’s all about sharing ideas 😊
@@SmartEasyDIYer Your construction looks great I simply meant that for those sitting posts in dirt your holes should be only a little bit larger than the post. Put one end of the post in the hole and lift the post until it slides in. Then add dirt as leveling the post with each addition until the hole is filled. Then tamp and keep leveling and you should end up with a level post without need for bracing although I did check the level at the addition of the girts to keep them straight. My barn is twenty years old now and no failures so far. Three thousand sq ft. Half inside with a cement floor and half as sheds outside with dirt floors to park equipment on.
In my area they require the holes to be a minimum of 24" wide regardless if you're using dirt or concrete. I know some of his are wider, but...rocks.
Yes, Rocks. 😁 if it wasn’t for rocks I could easily get away with 16” hole I’d say. Unless like you say it’s required to go bigger.
I would think as long as the holes are large enough to get a tamper in to compact the dirt then it's gtg. But I'm not an engineer.
It was helpful. Bout to finish out my stall barn with 6x6s. Thank you!
You’re welcome. Good luck with your build!
I have my first corner post in the ground 3-2x6 laminated. Im wanting to do 8 ft apart. Do i measure from outside corner of set post to outside corner of new post to make it 8ft? An 8 ft board wouldnt nail to it then unless i moved it to center of first post. But then it gives a gap of no wood on first post where 2x4 is started on center.
Yeah, I know what you mean. Usually you have to go 1 1/2” undersized on the overall post spacing to account for the nailer that goes on the outside yet.
I just use the string line and and a sledge hammer and level to set post. Move the post at ground level while plumbing. One kicker. One screw to move my post to plumb.
Yeah you can totally do that. Whatever system works for what you’re used to. 👍
Thanks for the tips and demonstration. I'll definitely use your suggestions when putting up my much simpler woodshed, because I'll be working by myself. I prefer it that way, too. Keep up the good work!
Thank you! Good luck with your project.
Dude, that was an excellent video. I'm putting up a barn this spring and this technique will definitely help. Thanks 🔨📏📐
Wow awesome thanks I appreciate the feedback! Best of luck going forward with your project! 👊👍
Really great, easy to follow, great hints and tips.
Thank you!
Are you able to tell me how big the footers were. I’m going to be building some thing similar and don’t know how wide or deep to do the concrete for the posts
Mine had to be 16” minimum diameter and 42” deep for frost. They ended up a lot bigger around cuz of rocks.
wow, excellent instruction and supporting video. thank you for putting this up.
Thank you for letting me know!
i must have missed it, what was the measurement from corner post to the other post? does it matter?
All depends how you wanna do it. I went 1-1/2” under 10’ so that accounted for the wall girts outside the wall to be included in the full 10’ if that makes sense.
My project Is a 20 by 24 car port.. I am going with a flat roof and no walls on the side.. I was thinking 3 4 by 4 is on the front, 3 for the middle and 3 for the back. The middle row would be 12 foot on center using 2 by 8 to support the OSB. Just trying to figure out the best way to make sure. All the 4 by 4's are in line. Wondering if I have to Bury 2 foot of 4 by 4 in the concrete. Or can I put down a concrete pad or a pillar and let the wood sit on top of that? I need 8 foot of clearance to back my truck underneath it. any suggestions
Yes, I don’t know if you have snow load to consider but it seems like for the 24 foot section if that is loadbearing, I would go every 8 feet if it’s not in loadbearing 12 feet should be sufficient. I think if I did it again, I would pour the concrete pier 1st and use a wet set bracket on top. You do have to do more bracing in the walls but you can build some permanent cross bracing going in either direction that should stiffen it up a lot.
@@SmartEasyDIYer I appreciate the response. I really have no idea what I want to do. That's why I watch these videos for inspiration. I am basically trying to put a 6 by 12 single axle trailer and a pickup truck under cover on the back of my garage working with 40 ft left to right and 24 ft deep as far as an open area. I guess I'm talking flat roof so I can chicken out of trying to work a Gable. I guess if I did 20 ft wide and 20 ft deep I could use 12 Footers as the rafters. That would obviously help with snow load as I do live in the Maryland region we don't get a lot of snow but there's always that potential.
What type of post did you use? They have finger joint material in the post.
Yes these are called laminated columns. These in particular are made by Triad building components. Other companies make similar ones
Great info! I'm building my 2 floor garage with post framing.
Thanks Jose and good luck with your build!
Happy Birthday Mr Postman 👌
Thank you! 😁
Hands down best video for setting/bracing 6x6's. My only question is...the stake you screwed through, what kind of stake was that and did you pre-drill it?
Thank you for letting me know!! They’re just round stakes that I got from Home Depot or Lowe’s. They already have holes in them every so many inches on all sides towards the top made for nails or screws. Thanks
@@SmartEasyDIYer Perfect, thanks for the quick response! I'm getting ready to do my own 24x40 pole barn as well.
You’re welcome I wish you the best with your project!!
I’m late to this build, but is 3 2x6 instead of a 6x6? If so is this a better setup
Yes these are called laminated columns. It’s nice because in one direction they are dimensional 5 1/2 so it works perfect for 2 x 6 wall. They are lighter and straighter than a normal 6 x 6.
Very helpful tips. Thanks man, great work
Thank you!
I'm doing it your way if i keep getting no response from builders just building service agency's. On SPACING; 36x36 would you go 12ft between posts or 9 ft being 36x36. I will start in three months 7 29 2022. This video is the one hurdle I WAS up against but no more! THANX Your Trusses . What do you have on that next?
So for the load bearing sides I would go shorter span rather than longer. It depends what style you do. If you header across the tops of the post and set your trusses on those like every 2-4’ or if you double up your trusses and set on top of the post directly. it might depend on how your trusses are engineered for loadbearing. If you’re getting your own trusses you could talk to a truss company and determine that. Depends on snow load etc if you live in a area that gets snow. I do have one on setting trusses but I did this style where I doubled up the center trusses and set them directly on top of the post and purlins on edge in between which is very common in the west. In the East it’s very common to do the header style and put 2x4 purlins flat on top.
Good video thank you. I'm building my house and most days I'm by myself. On your birthday it would have been nice to have a lady friend "set your post". Thanks again
Hahahahaha yeah. Who knows it may have happened since it was my birthday. It’s been such a busy year it’s hard to remember that far back. Building your own house takes up any free time you have. Good luck with your project!
)
Do you have any videos on building simple chicken 🐔 shack, 🐖 shack, and 🦆 shack?
On a limited budget and old crappy recycling lumber
Sorry I don’t. I wish I could help with that. I do have a few shed builds which might give some ideas.
Do the tops of the posts need to be level or do you put the beams on and cut the tops off after
Yes you just make sure they tall enough for the height you want especially if you have a low corner where you’re going to be bringing in fill but then you cut them off later yes.
What are your posts called? Did you make them or do lumber yard carry them. They look pressure treated 2/3s or so up then untreated above.
Are your posts stronger than solid posts? They probably won’t twist or warp.
Yes they’re called laminated columns. There’s different places that make them. The company I used is called triad. They’re based in Montana. You are correct it’s treated below grade and untreated above grade. It’s all glued and nailed together. Stronger straighter and lighter. Loved them.
Your narration style sounds just like Red Green! I was waiting for you to duct tape something to a 1980 Pontiac! :-)
Haha good times. I’ve heard that before. Not sure if I should be flattered or...... 😁
Very nice! cant wait to see finished building
Thanks. This was the start of my pole barn house actually so I have a whole playlist for that. Thanks
What do you do about the height? Cut them off at the top? Run a string across the top? Good video btw thanks
Thanks. I used a laser transit. Here’s the video about that. th-cam.com/video/z9KnqWPlGzA/w-d-xo.html
For just one second I thought I watching a Red / Green show. And of course the handyman secret weapon ",Duct Tape" would have been handy in a couple instances. I kept waiting for Harold to jump in come over and knock over 3- 4 of the post
Haha that’s funny. I’ve heard that a few times 😂
Very clear and precise thank you for the video
Thanks George I’m glad if it was helpful
Are the posts you used actually 2x6s nailed together? Looked like the one was. If so, curious why you did it that way?
Yes they were made by a company called triad. There’s different companies that do that but they are laminated and nailed together. I believe the reason is so they are straighter and lighter. Also in my situation they were dimensional going the one Direction to fit inside of a regular stud wall. Regular 6 x 6 in my area are rough cut full 6 inch so too big.
Nice video! Do the 2x4 posts get wrapped in plastic to prevent rotting.
Thanks. There’s a lot of different thoughts and opinions on rot etc. you can get post protector sleeves if you want to go that route.
Excellent all details
👍👊
I applaud you on doing this by yourself but think how much easier and more efficient it would be with a helper
Yes it would be much better. I just didn’t have that option and wanted to show how I did it for someone else who doesn’t have help either to show it’s do-able with a little planning ahead. Thanks.