Gotta love TH-cam! I knew I was going to be setting posts with my front end loader, I just wasn't sure how I was going to go about it yet. Voila! This is how! Thank you. 👍
Hole digging tip, when using an auger, stop rotation and lift out with dirt, swing to one side out of way and then give it a twist/shake to clear it, shovel tailings around hole after putting auger back in to go a bit deeper or to clean up, makes for a easier time instead of how you did it using a traditional manual clamshell post hole digger to clean out the hole. For those wanting to not have to replace the buried part of a post when deterioration begins to rear it ugly head as pt wood nor cedar lasts much more than 25-35 years, there is a few options: DIY concrete pier, NEVER encase a post in concrete, it will rot away in less than 20 years even if pressure treated, one you got the hole dug to desired or required depth, place a one or two foot length of paper tube near the top as the part below would be larger to act as a friction pile to reduce or prevent uplift at least in high winds (natural disaster weather is a beast and will destroy anything by the weakest point). Then either insert wet set brackets or L bolts for drill set brackets once you smooth the top, or let cure if you plan to use concrete bolts and the drill set brackets. Midwest Permacolumns is a leader and offers the most choices and best brackets in the industry. Best to use a medium or high psi mix that sets beyond 3k psi for anything larger than a shed, or if you use an engineer experience with Post Frame/Pole Building for your plans then let know or tell you the best strength of concrete mix to use for your planed size. You can also use said brackets for footer walls or if wanting a basement or crawlspace beneath said building. Drill set either uses expanding bolts which much be a distance from the edges of the pier or wall as they expand if too close can cause premature cracking, or use a bolt that screws into a pre-drilled hole allowing for flusher to outer edge of wall pre-finish look. Another option if not to keen to make your own piers, is Midwest Permacolumns precast concrete columns which come in three height/length sizes and preset wet set brackets and offer two sizes for 4 by 6 and 6 square solid posts for the standard height/length column, with the other two height columns with only 6 square post bracket size. These are rated for at least 9k psi/ 689 bar and require installation of either a height adjuster if you need to or plan to go deep in 12 or 24 inch additional rise and double as uplift anchors and can be set in dirt or encased in concrete up to the foot of the column but not covering the attachment bolt, or graded angle bracket and securement bolt package for additional order and cost. Morton buildings uses this same Midwest Permacolumn design but with their own design being that the foot of said column is an adjustable metal system so as to offer easy height adjustment so all footers are the same height when it comes time to put up the building structure. These are also similar in strength and can be encased at the foot with concrete of same or lesser strength, adjustment bolt is internally threaded meaning the adjustment bolt is at the top of column between the bracket, this system works best with their columns as they are not made with the tabs on the outside of said column, their tabs slide between the laminations. *I am not affiliated with either company, nor am I an expert.* Just giving those watching this for first time before doing their own build, some tips and suggestions to help out a bit, hope you find this useful.
Oh another option for longer post life if you rather set into dirt, check out Plasti-sleeve long and short sleeves, you may want to pre-drill a couple holes on the side above the base to let any water that may get in to seep out, though it does require use of a sealant at the top, comes in many sizes for all types of post sizes. They also offer a plastic footer pad for better load bearing and some additional protection, uplift protection also required and also a protector for the skirt board with a trim piece which I think is optional and useful for wood or cement board siding finishes, not really necessary for sheet metal cladding but still useful for it as added protection against 'splashing' but also for aluminum or vinyl sidings as well. Useful for floating slab floor or gravel or even dirt floor inside for longer life, all come in a black color HDPE. Or alternately Post Protector sleeves from Orgill similar in design but different color HDPE and outside profile, sleeve type in post 60 inch and 42 inch residential for decks and fences or a 30 inch grade guard said to be useful for all applications. All feature a channel system on two sides so any water penetration can weep out the open base and same channels allow it to breathe as well, all come in all post sizes. Also offer skirt-board protector guard though only wraps the bottom and lower part of outside face, but no "trim piece" option. Both require uplift protection either a bracket or rebar through post per code where required or if desired.
Or, you could just coat the bottom 4-6 ft of the pole, depending on hole depth with a coat of 2 of tar. I've been going back and forth on how I want to set my posts. Since I live in a hurricane area, I need the post in the ground for integrity.
I enjoyed watching you work smart not hard, you made that look easy. I have property I want to build on and the prices Im getting are very expensive to build a 30x50 pole building. $75k and $50k last year half that price. Getting harder for us little guys to "build back better". FJB.
Lumber definitely went crazy on the prices. OSB is still super inflated. 6x6’s and 2x’s are starting to get back to normal. I think metal has came back down also. I put off building a screened in deck because of these prices. My dad was in lumber for 40 years before he retired. I’ve seen the bottom drop out and mills shut down. I hope it comes back down and gets back to normal soon!
massey, COMPLETELY agree with you... we are SICK of the jerks who can hardly say a sentence without f-ing this and that especially when our children help us do jobs and so we have them watch the videos with us.
Gentleman, good video, helps me get items ready for when I start my pole barn. Would love to work with 6x6 but my main structure poles will be cedar trees. I am on a slight slope and going up with a second floor. Any advice on how to square such a large building? Thanks
Richard Britt. Hi. I always determine where I want the front of the barn, line up the front corners and then square the sides and back using the Pythagorean theory with a two 50 and a 100ft roll out tape measure. I get a some help to hold the tapes in place. I hammer in a grade stake where the tapes meet. That barn in the video came out about one inch out of square overall which is pretty good for a large building. The trim pieces cover those little out of square issues 😀.
Pretty easy if you throw your 80 pound bag of sck Crete in the hole and use a 16 inch auger and nail a hurrican block on the bottom of each pole set them on the forks then move by each hole and drag them off of the forks stand them up plumb them in with a 4 ft level throw dirt in the hole and tamp it in with a tamping bar the pole stands freely with no 2x4 braces then you gurt your building up with 2x6 and 2x8 treated bottom band and that boys is how you build a pole barn
Clough Shelton. Thanks! That’s short recovery strap that I bought at Tractor Supply a few years ago. This should be the link: www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/superwinch-recovery-strap-2-in-x-6-ft
Simple solution - I'll be setting 20 footers using something similar. I had planned on using tractor to hold it at vertical while post hole is tamped and concreted and going post to post - but looking at your bracing of each post one could carefully check alignments, spacing etc. before casting in concrete. Extra 2x will just be used as purlins later anyway. Thanks
Hi. Those are 2x4x10'. They did an excellent job of holding the 6x6's plumb while we tamped the dirt in around the post and while I framed the barn. I did exactly what you are saying. I used the 2x4's as "nailers" or "runners" for attaching the metal roofing with screws. I just finished installing all of these 2x4's tonight. Metal roofing will go on next week. I left the outside posts (corners) secured with the 2x until I get the roof on.
Must be nice having the auger go through your soil like a hot knife through butter...here in eastern Ohio we often hit hard shale or other rock starting at 1 1/2 to 2' feet down. Even after replacing the tip and blades on the auger, mine hit the rock and just honed on it even started smoking and so have to get out the spud bar to start the hard work of breaking up the rock before can finish with the auger.
Oh yeah, well if you weren't so far away I'd give ya one ruff n tough noogie for trying to rub it in that you guys don't hit rock till like 6ft down lol just kidding with ya of coarse...but yeah a lot of people here have some difficult time digging any deeper than a couple feet. Oh and I also got to find out where my grandparents had the dirt n rock put after they dug the basement for the house :-O just wait till I get to see my grandpa again cause I'm givin him a BIG noogie too lol
Hyper Joe. Thanks! It’s true but don’t tell my wife :). I bought it used (120 hrs) for $20k. I’ve had it for two years now and it’s been a really good tractor.
Hi. I set them two feet. The thing to think about is wind load and frost level in your area. We have trees and forest so the wind load is not bad like out west. Also, our frost line is only a foot deep in north Alabama. Some folks commented that they set them 4ft deep out west.
@@useful.knowledge I'm referring to treated wood blocking around the bottom of the post. Worst case I say this year was when a 12x12 OH door was blown in and turned the front of a guys barn into a kite, sucked his posts out about 1.5 feet, had to regrade his whole site all while in the middle of having his place on the market. In WI here and we place 1ft blocks nailed in around the bottom of the post when using the cookie method. Full concrete isn't that great because of expansion issues and rot conditions.
Derek Peterson. Wow!! Ok gotcha. We get some 60-70 mph straight line winds but we have lots of mature trees around us which breakup the wind. Other than the winds it’s tornadoes which are going to take it if they hit it. I’ve spent some time in WI and I can’t even imagine how high the winds get coming across those huge fields. Your idea is definitely worth doing.
@@useful.knowledge if there are open walls in the building we go at least 5ft deep, 6 if it's large enough, then we double up the blocks on all sides. Definitely worth the 2x 8ft boards each post when setting open walls 😉
How do you make sure all the posts are at exactly the same height/level at the top? It seems like it would be hard to make sure all the hole depths are exactly the same.
Hi. I show how to do that in the next video of the barn building. Here is the link: th-cam.com/video/_37XwjouJfY/w-d-xo.html Basically you find the common point on each post and measure up from that point for the cut. You'll need a laser level. I bought mine at Harbor Freight. It was cheap but worked. Best of luck!
Stephanie. Sorry, no cattle fences. I built miles of fences when I was a teenager working in the National Forest Service. We always built a 3 or 4 strand barbed wire using metal t-post with a what looked like a cutup telephone pole for corner post. We also would install a wood (7 or 8")post every probably 100 feet.
Hi. It's a 40x40 ft. The tall center section is 16x40 ft. The sides are 12x40 ft each. The posts are 8 feet apart. Sorry, I don't have a good scrubbed materials list.
Thanks for the quick reply. I am planning to build a similar barn on a newly acquired land and was wondering about how much lumber would it require. Anyway, I appreciated the response, thanks. I liked that video and subcrisbed to the channel as well.
Awesome! Thanks! I found a crude spreadsheet of where I was adding up the materials. If you will send me an email at useful.knowledge.tv@gmail.com, I will send it to you.
Welter Prado. I sent you another email late yesterday. There was a mistake on the material list. I knew I changed something while framing. The email explains the changes. Best of luck!
Hi. The main reason is that when you set them two feet into the ground, concrete is not really required to get a rigid pole set. Also, there are many different schools of thought on this. I was taught that setting the poles in concrete will help retain moisture around the pole where dirt will let water drain off under the ground. I have had no issues with my other barn that I built 15 years ago. I also make certain that I use ground contact pressure treated lumber.
I don't think that would work here on the High Plains. We're subjected to both frost heave and high winds. A couple of years ago we had wind gusts in excess of 80 mph. I've got to go a minimum of 3' down (frost line is 30" to 36") or 1/3 the pole length, whichever is greater and then anchor them in concrete to increase the lateral surface area. Must be nice to live where the wind isn't constantly trying to scrub your farm from the face of the earth.
Sounds right. Our frost line in north Alabama is 12-18" We get 60 mph gusts when fronts come in but the trees help to break it up so we don't have your type of wind problems. Our main concern is tornadoes. Of course if one hits my property, the barn will be gone along with everything else. Thanks for sharing!
Here in Montana we have to go 42” minimum for frost and what I’ve heard is cement is ok as long as you don’t set it on concrete. Put crushed gravel on the bottom for the post to set on. Pack it good then pour cement around it. If any water gets in there it’ll run out the bottom through that gravel. The worst thing is if water gets in there and sits and can’t go anywhere. So if you put cement underneath and on the sides it traps and makes it rot eventually.
Gotta love TH-cam! I knew I was going to be setting posts with my front end loader, I just wasn't sure how I was going to go about it yet.
Voila! This is how! Thank you. 👍
Hi. It does work great. I have picked up many post like that since making the video. Thanks!
Hole digging tip, when using an auger, stop rotation and lift out with dirt, swing to one side out of way and then give it a twist/shake to clear it, shovel tailings around hole after putting auger back in to go a bit deeper or to clean up, makes for a easier time instead of how you did it using a traditional manual clamshell post hole digger to clean out the hole.
For those wanting to not have to replace the buried part of a post when deterioration begins to rear it ugly head as pt wood nor cedar lasts much more than 25-35 years, there is a few options:
DIY concrete pier, NEVER encase a post in concrete, it will rot away in less than 20 years even if pressure treated, one you got the hole dug to desired or required depth, place a one or two foot length of paper tube near the top as the part below would be larger to act as a friction pile to reduce or prevent uplift at least in high winds (natural disaster weather is a beast and will destroy anything by the weakest point). Then either insert wet set brackets or L bolts for drill set brackets once you smooth the top, or let cure if you plan to use concrete bolts and the drill set brackets. Midwest Permacolumns is a leader and offers the most choices and best brackets in the industry. Best to use a medium or high psi mix that sets beyond 3k psi for anything larger than a shed, or if you use an engineer experience with Post Frame/Pole Building for your plans then let know or tell you the best strength of concrete mix to use for your planed size. You can also use said brackets for footer walls or if wanting a basement or crawlspace beneath said building. Drill set either uses expanding bolts which much be a distance from the edges of the pier or wall as they expand if too close can cause premature cracking, or use a bolt that screws into a pre-drilled hole allowing for flusher to outer edge of wall pre-finish look.
Another option if not to keen to make your own piers, is Midwest Permacolumns precast concrete columns which come in three height/length sizes and preset wet set brackets and offer two sizes for 4 by 6 and 6 square solid posts for the standard height/length column, with the other two height columns with only 6 square post bracket size. These are rated for at least 9k psi/ 689 bar and require installation of either a height adjuster if you need to or plan to go deep in 12 or 24 inch additional rise and double as uplift anchors and can be set in dirt or encased in concrete up to the foot of the column but not covering the attachment bolt, or graded angle bracket and securement bolt package for additional order and cost.
Morton buildings uses this same Midwest Permacolumn design but with their own design being that the foot of said column is an adjustable metal system so as to offer easy height adjustment so all footers are the same height when it comes time to put up the building structure. These are also similar in strength and can be encased at the foot with concrete of same or lesser strength, adjustment bolt is internally threaded meaning the adjustment bolt is at the top of column between the bracket, this system works best with their columns as they are not made with the tabs on the outside of said column, their tabs slide between the laminations.
*I am not affiliated with either company, nor am I an expert.* Just giving those watching this for first time before doing their own build, some tips and suggestions to help out a bit, hope you find this useful.
Oh another option for longer post life if you rather set into dirt, check out Plasti-sleeve long and short sleeves, you may want to pre-drill a couple holes on the side above the base to let any water that may get in to seep out, though it does require use of a sealant at the top, comes in many sizes for all types of post sizes. They also offer a plastic footer pad for better load bearing and some additional protection, uplift protection also required and also a protector for the skirt board with a trim piece which I think is optional and useful for wood or cement board siding finishes, not really necessary for sheet metal cladding but still useful for it as added protection against 'splashing' but also for aluminum or vinyl sidings as well. Useful for floating slab floor or gravel or even dirt floor inside for longer life, all come in a black color HDPE.
Or alternately Post Protector sleeves from Orgill similar in design but different color HDPE and outside profile, sleeve type in post 60 inch and 42 inch residential for decks and fences or a 30 inch grade guard said to be useful for all applications. All feature a channel system on two sides so any water penetration can weep out the open base and same channels allow it to breathe as well, all come in all post sizes. Also offer skirt-board protector guard though only wraps the bottom and lower part of outside face, but no "trim piece" option.
Both require uplift protection either a bracket or rebar through post per code where required or if desired.
Don't worry these people in the video are not experts either, obviously
Or, you could just coat the bottom 4-6 ft of the pole, depending on hole depth with a coat of 2 of tar. I've been going back and forth on how I want to set my posts. Since I live in a hurricane area, I need the post in the ground for integrity.
You guys ROCK! Just saved me a lot of grief...
Thanks!!
What a great tip! I needed this information to set my own 6x6x16 posts for an upcoming project. Thanks
Thanks!
I enjoyed watching you work smart not hard, you made that look easy. I have property I want to build on and the prices Im getting are very expensive to build a 30x50 pole building. $75k and $50k last year half that price. Getting harder for us little guys to "build back better". FJB.
Lumber definitely went crazy on the prices. OSB is still super inflated. 6x6’s and 2x’s are starting to get back to normal. I think metal has came back down also. I put off building a screened in deck because of these prices. My dad was in lumber for 40 years before he retired. I’ve seen the bottom drop out and mills shut down. I hope it comes back down and gets back to normal soon!
awesome idea I'm installing a ranch style entry using 8"x8"x20' posts I'm gonna try this out
Thanks!!! I bet those are definitely heavy.
VERY GOOD IDEA ! Congratulations!
Thanks!
Awesome video and no bad language! Thumbs up
Thanks for watching, massey! Glad you liked it!
massey9556 Thanks!
massey,
COMPLETELY agree with you... we are SICK of the jerks who can hardly say a sentence without f-ing this and that especially when our children help us do jobs and so we have them watch the videos with us.
What's wrong with saying fuck this insane fuck that it's all adults here. Are you guys the PC police
Thanks, I need to set a 20 foot 6 x 6 to get my Starlink dish up high. To many trees and I dont want to cut any.
Gentleman, good video, helps me get items ready for when I start my pole barn. Would love to work with 6x6 but my main structure poles will be cedar trees. I am on a slight slope and going up with a second floor. Any advice on how to square such a large building? Thanks
Richard Britt. Hi. I always determine where I want the front of the barn, line up the front corners and then square the sides and back using the Pythagorean theory with a two 50 and a 100ft roll out tape measure. I get a some help to hold the tapes in place. I hammer in a grade stake where the tapes meet. That barn in the video came out about one inch out of square overall which is pretty good for a large building. The trim pieces cover those little out of square issues 😀.
Pretty easy if you throw your 80 pound bag of sck Crete in the hole and use a 16 inch auger and nail a hurrican block on the bottom of each pole set them on the forks then move by each hole and drag them off of the forks stand them up plumb them in with a 4 ft level throw dirt in the hole and tamp it in with a tamping bar the pole stands freely with no 2x4 braces then you gurt your building up with 2x6 and 2x8 treated bottom band and that boys is how you build a pole barn
Good stuff
Nice 👍😎
Totally stinking awesome! I was wondering how I could do this. Looks like even one person could do this...thanks!
James Burris. Thanks. Those 6x6’s are heavy but I think one person could do it.
Thanks for the helpful tips good idea
Thanks!
Is it ok to bury the 6 by 6 without any concrete? I know the hole will need to be much larger ( about 18 inches for 6 by 6) if we do use concrete.
Hi. I didn’t use concrete. Ground ends up settling around the post and they don’t move.
@@useful.knowledge That is great if the earth can keep them stable. 18 inches hole does cost.
Great video and a great tip. I plan to use this method to move railroad ties. Where did you that lifting strap?
Clough Shelton. Thanks! That’s short recovery strap that I bought at Tractor Supply a few years ago. This should be the link: www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/superwinch-recovery-strap-2-in-x-6-ft
thx 4 sharing
Thanks!!
Simple solution - I'll be setting 20 footers using something similar. I had planned on using tractor to hold it at vertical while post hole is tamped and concreted and going post to post - but looking at your bracing of each post one could carefully check alignments, spacing etc. before casting in concrete. Extra 2x will just be used as purlins later anyway. Thanks
Hi. Those are 2x4x10'. They did an excellent job of holding the 6x6's plumb while we tamped the dirt in around the post and while I framed the barn. I did exactly what you are saying. I used the 2x4's as "nailers" or "runners" for attaching the metal roofing with screws. I just finished installing all of these 2x4's tonight. Metal roofing will go on next week. I left the outside posts (corners) secured with the 2x until I get the roof on.
Forgot to add, I did this with a barn about 15 years ago and its still plumb and level.
Seems a great way to do it.
Must be nice having the auger go through your soil like a hot knife through butter...here in eastern Ohio we often hit hard shale or other rock starting at 1 1/2 to 2' feet down. Even after replacing the tip and blades on the auger, mine hit the rock and just honed on it even started smoking and so have to get out the spud bar to start the hard work of breaking up the rock before can finish with the auger.
Hi. We are pretty lucky in North Alabama. We have rock but it is down about 6 ft. Sounds like some tough work up in OH.
Oh yeah, well if you weren't so far away I'd give ya one ruff n tough noogie for trying to rub it in that you guys don't hit rock till like 6ft down lol just kidding with ya of coarse...but yeah a lot of people here have some difficult time digging any deeper than a couple feet. Oh and I also got to find out where my grandparents had the dirt n rock put after they dug the basement for the house :-O just wait till I get to see my grandpa again cause I'm givin him a BIG noogie too lol
We have nothing but black dirt on our farm.
We have dug down 12 ft for a stock tank and never even hit a pebble
Great information.
Great info. Thanks!!!
Nice Rigging trick.
GOOD JOB!!!!
Nice Job! I need to do this pretty soon, all I need now is to come up with a $20k Tractor...hahaha ;)
Hyper Joe. Thanks! It’s true but don’t tell my wife :). I bought it used (120 hrs) for $20k. I’ve had it for two years now and it’s been a really good tractor.
What size tractor do you have? thanks.
bp30656Z. Hi. It’s a JD 4105. It’s a 41 hp. The tractor handles 6 ft implements really well. It also has a 6ft front end loader bucket. Thanks!
How deep are you setting them?
Hi. I set them two feet. The thing to think about is wind load and frost level in your area. We have trees and forest so the wind load is not bad like out west. Also, our frost line is only a foot deep in north Alabama. Some folks commented that they set them 4ft deep out west.
Neater than a skeeter peter.
that's easy! but how do i get a fork lift like that.
Hi. I really love using these forks. Here is the link to the pallet forks website. They will ship them directly to your house. palletforks.com/
no blocking? what about up-heave?
Derek Peterson. Hi. We’re in North Alabama. Out frost line is only a foot deep so we put these in at 2 ft deep. We haven’t had any issues.
@@useful.knowledge I'm referring to treated wood blocking around the bottom of the post. Worst case I say this year was when a 12x12 OH door was blown in and turned the front of a guys barn into a kite, sucked his posts out about 1.5 feet, had to regrade his whole site all while in the middle of having his place on the market. In WI here and we place 1ft blocks nailed in around the bottom of the post when using the cookie method. Full concrete isn't that great because of expansion issues and rot conditions.
Derek Peterson. Wow!! Ok gotcha. We get some 60-70 mph straight line winds but we have lots of mature trees around us which breakup the wind. Other than the winds it’s tornadoes which are going to take it if they hit it. I’ve spent some time in WI and I can’t even imagine how high the winds get coming across those huge fields. Your idea is definitely worth doing.
@@useful.knowledge if there are open walls in the building we go at least 5ft deep, 6 if it's large enough, then we double up the blocks on all sides. Definitely worth the 2x 8ft boards each post when setting open walls 😉
How far did you space your 6x6s
Hi. Those are 8ft apart in the center and outside. I have friends that built their barn with them spaced at 10ft. Either will work.
What’s the dimensions? How wide is the center bay?
txfj40. Hi. The total is 40x40 ft. The center is 16x40 and the sides are 12x40. I needed 16 in the center for a camper with the slide outs open.
how deep is hole and pole length?
Tom Close. Hi. The holes are 2ft deep the post are 16ft and 12ft .
How do you make sure all the posts are at exactly the same height/level at the top? It seems like it would be hard to make sure all the hole depths are exactly the same.
Hi. I show how to do that in the next video of the barn building. Here is the link: th-cam.com/video/_37XwjouJfY/w-d-xo.html
Basically you find the common point on each post and measure up from that point for the cut. You'll need a laser level. I bought mine at Harbor Freight. It was cheap but worked. Best of luck!
1. Use lumber that's a little longer than the final height.
2. Set poles.
3. Cut tops off at desired height.
I'm looking on videos for cattle fencing, if you have any.
Stephanie. Sorry, no cattle fences. I built miles of fences when I was a teenager working in the National Forest Service. We always built a 3 or 4 strand barbed wire using metal t-post with a what looked like a cutup telephone pole for corner post. We also would install a wood (7 or 8")post every probably 100 feet.
What John Deere is that? 3033R?
Zeb Zeb. Hi. It’s a 4105. If memory serves, I think it’s a 43 hp tractor. I’ve owned it for almost a year and I have no complaints. Thanks!
I’m a 58 year old man and can put a 6x6 into a hole by myself. I’m confused
Wow! A treated southern yellow pine 6x6x16 is going to be pushing 250lbs.
How about a material list, dimensions, thanks!
Hi. It's a 40x40 ft. The tall center section is 16x40 ft. The sides are 12x40 ft each. The posts are 8 feet apart. Sorry, I don't have a good scrubbed materials list.
Thanks for the quick reply. I am planning to build a similar barn on a newly acquired land and was wondering about how much lumber would it require. Anyway, I appreciated the response, thanks. I liked that video and subcrisbed to the channel as well.
Awesome! Thanks! I found a crude spreadsheet of where I was adding up the materials. If you will send me an email at useful.knowledge.tv@gmail.com, I will send it to you.
Welter Prado. I sent you another email late yesterday. There was a mistake on the material list. I knew I changed something while framing. The email explains the changes. Best of luck!
Why did you not set the posts in Concrete? Every video I have watched, no one has used Concrete.
Hi. The main reason is that when you set them two feet into the ground, concrete is not really required to get a rigid pole set. Also, there are many different schools of thought on this. I was taught that setting the poles in concrete will help retain moisture around the pole where dirt will let water drain off under the ground. I have had no issues with my other barn that I built 15 years ago. I also make certain that I use ground contact pressure treated lumber.
I don't think that would work here on the High Plains. We're subjected to both frost heave and high winds. A couple of years ago we had wind gusts in excess of 80 mph. I've got to go a minimum of 3' down (frost line is 30" to 36") or 1/3 the pole length, whichever is greater and then anchor them in concrete to increase the lateral surface area.
Must be nice to live where the wind isn't constantly trying to scrub your farm from the face of the earth.
Sounds right. Our frost line in north Alabama is 12-18" We get 60 mph gusts when fronts come in but the trees help to break it up so we don't have your type of wind problems. Our main concern is tornadoes. Of course if one hits my property, the barn will be gone along with everything else. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks all for your response. I'm sure here in Northern Utah, building code would require something different. Thanks again.
Here in Montana we have to go 42” minimum for frost and what I’ve heard is cement is ok as long as you don’t set it on concrete. Put crushed gravel on the bottom for the post to set on. Pack it good then pour cement around it. If any water gets in there it’ll run out the bottom through that gravel. The worst thing is if water gets in there and sits and can’t go anywhere. So if you put cement underneath and on the sides it traps and makes it rot eventually.
Haha watch the line haha
You don't need the nail in the 4x4