Thanks for the video , very helpful.. Just did it and my tips are that the easiest way to see the stopcock and the spigot is to look through the front grill. After draining , I filled the rad with plain water , then ran the engine through the 3000 rpm 5 times , then drained again and this certainly got more old coolant out. Then filled with new coolant . I also opened the bleeder every time I drained or filled the system. When filling , a small amount of coolant comes out of the bleeder only when it is almost full. All done , no problems .
Really nice video Peter.. i need to do this soon and was going to pay a local garage big $$, but thanks to you am going to do it myself now. Love your accent, thanks again !
can you see coolant in the air bleeder at the same time as coolant is overflowing from the radiator? if you can all is OK. If not make sure the car is on level ground - the air bleeder is slightly higher than the level of the radiator cap.
thanks for the question. I had just bought the car and it had been sitting undriven for nearly a year. It 9 months overdue for a service even though it had only done 1,000km since the last service. bit of a 'barn' find, the guy I bought it from had to buy a battery to start it! I just changed all the fluids and threw on new tyres so I knew everything was OK with it. It is an awesome car!
quickjack.com.au I got the BL-5000SLX as they can lift the other cars that I have as well www.quickjack.com.au/car-hoist-systems/bl-5000slx-portable-car-hoist.html
A bit late to the party here but I am currently doing this. After I race the engine to 3000 rpm 5 times, wait a minute, then check the radiator level, it’s low. I then unscrew the bleed valve and the coolant level rises in the radiator neck. Should I keep doing this and filling up with coolant without removing the bleed valve? Or should I remove the bleed valve and if both levels are good, move on to the next step?
I'd top up the radiator without releasing the bleed valve to equalise the levels, run it for bit and then check the levels at both points again until both levels are good. You want to get to a point where you can see coolant in both. Once you have done it a few times take the car for a decent drive, let it cool overnight and then check levels on flat ground.
@@numbnutsAU you also mentioned that these have a self burping system. What does that mean exactly? Does that mean that this cooling system on the 86 platform purges some air on its own? I cannot for the life of me find any info on this online. Any info would be much appreciated! Thank you.
@@numbnutsAU again, thank you for the response! Got coolant level equal and can monitor the temps with my open flash tablet that is a little more accurate than the gauge. Temps are perfect!
So I over filled the reservoir, the radiator bleed nipple has radiator coming from it, should I just get a turkey baster and suck some coolant from the reservoir?
I drive a 2016 Scion FR-S and I’ve always taken my car to get serviced at the dealership so this will be the first time I’ll be replacing the coolant myself. I don’t know exactly what coolant they’ve been using but I’m assuming it’s the genuine Toyota stuff that shows in the manual. The problem is, is that they NEVER have it in stock at my local Toyota dealership. I can’t seem to find it anywhere in my area so I went ahead and got the Subaru 50/50 long life coolant(blue). You mentioned in the video that you won’t be able to get 100% of the coolant out of the system so I was wondering if it’s okay for me to just follow these exact steps even though the two different coolant brands will mix together? Will there be any issues with that, or should I flush out the entire cooling system with distilled water first? Thanks!
Hi Josh, you will be 100% fine to use the Subaru Long Life Coolant in your FR-S. It will be exactly the same specification as the coolant in your car now and what you'd get from the Toyota dealership. I did exactly the same thing when I changed mine. It all likely comes from the same factory - they just put a different label on the bottle. Just follow the steps in the video - no need to flush out the cooling system.
@@numbnutsAU Awesome! Thanks for the informative and detailed video. This video is the only reason I’ve decided to do it myself this time around. Keep up the great work!
Hello I accidentally left the coolant bleed valve unscrewed(open) when reving the engine was wondering if that would result in air getting into the system? :( Thanks
There is no point for the heater to be on, or on full heat. Coolant will always flow inside the heater core because there is no valve that prevents that
my video follows the procedure from the workshop service manual. part of the procedure includes operating the heater at the maximum hot position with the fan speed set to "low"
thanks for the question. I had just bought the car and it had been sitting undriven for nearly a year. It was 9 months overdue for a service even though it had only done 1,000km since the last service. bit of a 'barn' find, the guy I bought it from had to buy a battery to start it! As a precaution I just changed all the fluids and threw on new tyres so I knew absolutely everything was OK with it.
yep - all good. after the end of the video I allowed the car to cool again and had to top off the coolant again by a very small amount. Since then levels have remained stable across the engine i.e. radiator, coolant reservoir and at the air bleed valve. Just keep checking your levels until everything stabilises.
it's Smurf blood apparently lol! there are other aftermarket options for blue long life coolant that should be fine - just check that it is compatible with subaru engines. In Australia Penrite make a blue long life coolant for this engine that is about half the price of the subaru genuine coolant. i'll likely use it next time I change my coolant.
"correctly change"? Armature hour. you left half the old coolant in there. you need to detach the lower radiator hose. also the expansion take overflow tube is made for attaching to the drain. take my thumb down
you could certainly remove the outlet hose from the bottom of the engine block and get maybe another 500ml from it. not worth it and you're just introducing the possibility of leaks by disturbing the hose. you're never going to get all the coolant out of the cooling system in any case. my method follows the workshop guide, and they didn't put a drain stop cock on the radiator for decoration. thanks for your "pro" tip though - it is appreciated.
![[LIVE] : ONE ลุมพินี 88 | คู่เอก "ป้อมเพชร vs อัสลามจอน"](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/1ZqTVVbMgbo/mqdefault.jpg)
Ive been coming back to this video everything i need to do a coolant fillup or someone has a brz/frs that needs to do it. Best video for this.
Thanks for the video , very helpful..
Just did it and my tips are that the easiest way to see the stopcock and the spigot is to look through the front grill.
After draining , I filled the rad with plain water , then ran the engine through the 3000 rpm 5 times , then drained again and this certainly got more old coolant out.
Then filled with new coolant . I also opened the bleeder every time I drained or filled the system.
When filling , a small amount of coolant comes out of the bleeder only when it is almost full.
All done , no problems .
Thanks for this my BRZ is sitting on low and I struggled to find a good video
glad my video could help :o)
Really nice video Peter.. i need to do this soon and was going to pay a local garage big $$, but thanks to you am going to do it myself now. Love your accent, thanks again !
Easy just finished now my system is looking clean. 👌
Bro you don’t need hose. They made it so you use the black overflow tube to hook up to that radiator bleeder 🤙🏻
OK - thanks for that tip :)
wow...thanks for the tip..i'm doing this this weekend..
Thanks for the detailed video, especially calling out the bleeder screw!
Very thorough video, thank you!
Sweet man thanks for this video!
Thanks Peter good vid!
Thank you for the video 😁
Super helpful, thanks man!
Great...ahm.....video.....ahm....thanks.....ahm....
Thanks, great video👍
Great video man
What if coolant starts coming out of the radiator when your bleeding the air with the air bleeder cap off and the radiator cap off
can you see coolant in the air bleeder at the same time as coolant is overflowing from the radiator? if you can all is OK. If not make sure the car is on level ground - the air bleeder is slightly higher than the level of the radiator cap.
Peter I didn’t know the car needed to be level thanks that helps a lot I thought it was way worse
great video but why would you change it at a very low mileage,Just a curious question
thanks for the question. I had just bought the car and it had been sitting undriven for nearly a year. It 9 months overdue for a service even though it had only done 1,000km since the last service. bit of a 'barn' find, the guy I bought it from had to buy a battery to start it! I just changed all the fluids and threw on new tyres so I knew everything was OK with it. It is an awesome car!
@@numbnutsAU it had me thinking for a bit but I makes complete sense I appreciate the video
Great video!!!!
Great job thanks!!
i was doing this and then dropped the bleeder valve screw into the engine bay...
cant drive the car now
I did the same exact thing 😅 I had to remove the skid plate plus the exhaust shroud to get it back. Added an extra hour to the job 🤧
Were did you get the quickjacks from and what model are they?
quickjack.com.au I got the BL-5000SLX as they can lift the other cars that I have as well www.quickjack.com.au/car-hoist-systems/bl-5000slx-portable-car-hoist.html
Great Vid, may I ask what is the diameter of the tube?
thanks - the tube has inside diameter of 8mm
Can someone link what kinda of stand he’s got under his car? Or at least say what type it is so I can find one?
QuickJack BL-5000SLX
A bit late to the party here but I am currently doing this. After I race the engine to 3000 rpm 5 times, wait a minute, then check the radiator level, it’s low. I then unscrew the bleed valve and the coolant level rises in the radiator neck. Should I keep doing this and filling up with coolant without removing the bleed valve? Or should I remove the bleed valve and if both levels are good, move on to the next step?
I'd top up the radiator without releasing the bleed valve to equalise the levels, run it for bit and then check the levels at both points again until both levels are good. You want to get to a point where you can see coolant in both. Once you have done it a few times take the car for a decent drive, let it cool overnight and then check levels on flat ground.
@@numbnutsAU I appreciate the response!
@@numbnutsAU you also mentioned that these have a self burping system. What does that mean exactly? Does that mean that this cooling system on the 86 platform purges some air on its own? I cannot for the life of me find any info on this online. Any info would be much appreciated! Thank you.
@@JacobZika it purges some air on it's own but needs help by releasing some air at the bleed screw.
@@numbnutsAU again, thank you for the response! Got coolant level equal and can monitor the temps with my open flash tablet that is a little more accurate than the gauge. Temps are perfect!
So I over filled the reservoir, the radiator bleed nipple has radiator coming from it, should I just get a turkey baster and suck some coolant from the reservoir?
Yep, you need to get it out somehow and back to the high level mark.
Does the coolant literally need to be leaking out of the bleeder ?? Because I don’t seem to getting any coolant coming out .
As long as you see it in the bleeder it is fine.
Thanks!
Hi Peter, what drain hose did you use? Or is it universal?
I just used a bit of hose I had lying around. As long as it has the same inside diameter that fits over the drain you should be fine.
Can someone tell me if they know what kind of a lift that is... That's awesome.
QuickJack BL-5000SLX
I drive a 2016 Scion FR-S and I’ve always taken my car to get serviced at the dealership so this will be the first time I’ll be replacing the coolant myself. I don’t know exactly what coolant they’ve been using but I’m assuming it’s the genuine Toyota stuff that shows in the manual. The problem is, is that they NEVER have it in stock at my local Toyota dealership. I can’t seem to find it anywhere in my area so I went ahead and got the Subaru 50/50 long life coolant(blue). You mentioned in the video that you won’t be able to get 100% of the coolant out of the system so I was wondering if it’s okay for me to just follow these exact steps even though the two different coolant brands will mix together? Will there be any issues with that, or should I flush out the entire cooling system with distilled water first? Thanks!
Hi Josh, you will be 100% fine to use the Subaru Long Life Coolant in your FR-S. It will be exactly the same specification as the coolant in your car now and what you'd get from the Toyota dealership. I did exactly the same thing when I changed mine. It all likely comes from the same factory - they just put a different label on the bottle. Just follow the steps in the video - no need to flush out the cooling system.
@@numbnutsAU Awesome! Thanks for the informative and detailed video. This video is the only reason I’ve decided to do it myself this time around. Keep up the great work!
I still got old coolant in my system :(
Hello I accidentally left the coolant bleed valve unscrewed(open) when reving the engine was wondering if that would result in air getting into the system? :(
Thanks
it shouldn't be a problem as the coolant bleed valve is a high point in the cooling system that allows air to escape.
@@numbnutsAU thanks for the info!
There is no point for the heater to be on, or on full heat. Coolant will always flow inside the heater core because there is no valve that prevents that
my video follows the procedure from the workshop service manual. part of the procedure includes operating the heater at the maximum hot position with the fan speed set to "low"
Where did you get the lifting system your using?
www.quickjack.com.au/ best thing I have ever bought for the garage
Why did you change it with only 17,000 miles?
thanks for the question. I had just bought the car and it had been sitting undriven for nearly a year. It was 9 months overdue for a service even though it had only done 1,000km since the last service. bit of a 'barn' find, the guy I bought it from had to buy a battery to start it! As a precaution I just changed all the fluids and threw on new tyres so I knew absolutely everything was OK with it.
Everything good with the car??
yep - all good. after the end of the video I allowed the car to cool again and had to top off the coolant again by a very small amount. Since then levels have remained stable across the engine i.e. radiator, coolant reservoir and at the air bleed valve. Just keep checking your levels until everything stabilises.
Perfect man!!! do you know the exact amount of coolant you used!!
Awesome video by the way man!
@@bubucachoo0882 just under 5 litres, but only just! didn't need to open the one litre bottle.
Isn't the coolant rated for 12 years?
150,000km or 6-8 years. I changed mine early as I bought the car used and wanted to make sure everything was 100%. Changed all fluids when I got it.
when to change my coolant on my brz?
change it according to the schedule in your service manual
What’s that lift?
QuickJack BL-5000SLX www.quickjack.com.au/bl-5000slx-portable-car-hoist.html
Peter Awesome thanks for the quick reply!
White wait did you just say $125?!!!!!!!! For coolant?! WHAT!!!!!!!!!!
it's Smurf blood apparently lol! there are other aftermarket options for blue long life coolant that should be fine - just check that it is compatible with subaru engines. In Australia Penrite make a blue long life coolant for this engine that is about half the price of the subaru genuine coolant. i'll likely use it next time I change my coolant.
@@numbnutsAU oh it's Australian dollar... 🤣 Makes sense now. Nevermind
@@numbnutsAUhi i am in australia as well. Have you tried the penrite blue oem coolant yet? thanks.
@@jhowie Nulon also make blue coolant concentrate suitable for these engines ,,8 years or 150,000 km.
Cars backwards mate
Super dragged out video
I do my videos for the benefit of people who might be new to spannering - hence the amount of detail I go into.
@@numbnutsAUas someone who’s new to it, I greatly appreciate the detail
"correctly change"? Armature hour. you left half the old coolant in there. you need to detach the lower radiator hose. also the expansion take overflow tube is made for attaching to the drain. take my thumb down
you could certainly remove the outlet hose from the bottom of the engine block and get maybe another 500ml from it. not worth it and you're just introducing the possibility of leaks by disturbing the hose. you're never going to get all the coolant out of the cooling system in any case. my method follows the workshop guide, and they didn't put a drain stop cock on the radiator for decoration. thanks for your "pro" tip though - it is appreciated.