Much appreciated. Very useful information, and enlightening. Especially pointing out that something so simple, such as air pockets in the cooling system could cause fluctuation in idle speed. No one else on any Jeep forum or informational video I've seen even gave this possibility as a problematic solution. It was also an excellent suggestion to raise the front of the vehicle while performing the process of removing air from the cooling system. Thanks again, your intelligence is appreciated. You not only gave one approach to doing this job but three. Very interesting, and thorough. 💯
great video but that's not always the problem if it fluctuates it could be a sign of a small head gasket leak especially if you smell antifreeze on a cold start up as it burns through the exhaust there really isn't a need to bleed air from a system if the car had a coolant flush years ago usually there is a problem that is starting ...I never had to bleed a system once its done right the first time......
@@jonathangoode1075 lifting the passenger side, with a Jack, definitely helped get most, if not all the air out? My heat is fine now, but I think they should use a bleeder screw, to make it much easier. Like the old days.
Thanks man! I'm pretty sure 10-15yrs ago, I've gone "down that rabbit hole" chasing the iDLE problem. PLUS, your "coolant system flush explanation" is the best I've heard.
To remove excess. coolant from funnel, you can use the sprayer from a spray bottle and insert the stem into the fluid and spray it out into a container
Very informative as in all your videos. I for one have always enjoyed everything you post, and even at 65 years of age and the fact that I have been wrenching since I was about 13 years old, you my Brother have certainly taught me more than a few new tricks of the trade. Thanks for all you do and all the Awesome information you put out there for all of us.
This is the best explanation AND demonstration I have watched out of the 50 videos. Thank you!
ปีที่แล้ว +1
Owww this was such a great guide to this kind of problem. Most people go directly to the sensors when they have this idle rpm bouncing on the engine. We sometimes have this problem when changing the cylinder head on maritime diesel engines, so we always drain the whole coolant from the system, change it and then fill it back again. Same problem, same fix but all and all completely different workarounds. Nice to see.
Great job, have heard of this method, but never seen it demonstrated 👏👍 I usually just do the funnel method. Heck sometimes I dont even use a funnel, just keep topping it up and letting it burp 👍
Very good explanation on bleeding the system! I like the "take a shot when you hear system" idea but feel that I'd be plastered in no time! LOL Thanks for posting this.
Thank you very much for the info and technique it worked wonderful. I will leave my detailed experience in case anyone has a similar scenario. My 2016 Chrysler 200 only has an overflow tank so that is what i used the first method on and it worked flawlessly. I parked on a decent slope with the tank at the high point but i also opened the radiator bleed valve (small plastic twisty boy) until the coolant came out in a steady flow while running at operating temp. What brought me to this problem is that i opened a coolant line to get to another component and let in air while doing so. My main symptom was a sloshing or water faucet like sound when i accelerated, accompanied with a much weaker working heater core. After properly bleeding the air as you described, plus the valve thing, all is well. Thank you again. Good luck to all reading !
that might be a temp fix but you may have a head gasket issue starting ....if your car had antifreeze in it and never touched it there is no reason to bleed a system unless you replaced the antifreeze or did some work to your car such as a water pump or radiator....if you have high miles u may have a head gasket leak starting
@@fortnite360HZyou were exactly right! Had to do the yearly check and they found this to be the problem, they replaced the headgasket and now its working again
My 1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX has an idle surge at warm up and goes away once completely warmed up. Mechanics have never used a no sill funnel to bleed it out. I have replaced the IAC twice and it did nit solve my idle surge. Thank you forvthis video!
Thank You for the step by step video you made on this topic. I followed the same steps you suggested. I used a funnel. Everything went perfectly . All the air is out of my cooling system . Everything works perfect . Thank You . 😁😁😁😁😁
I have a 2021 Acura. Just flushed the coolant. I used the spill less funnel, squeezed all the air out, I thought, but I’m only getting heat when I set the temp to high? If I go down to say, 85, or even lower, I get cool air. Any suggestions?
I tried all that I could but nothing seems to be purging the remaining air out of the system. I’m not sure where the it’s trapped but would someone be able to help? I have an 04 Toyota Celica I recently replaced the thermostat (I made sure it actually worked, & then made sure to install the correct way). Did this procedure (minus elevating the coolant reservoir). I was able to massage lower hose until I didn’t hear any air. However can’t reach the upper hose due to other stuff being in the way. The reservoir on the breather cap side is half full, & I’m pretty sure it’s supposed to be completely full but can’t seem to get the system to refill it on it’s own. Any tips? I also warmed up the engine to open the thermostat and then drove on an incline. After letting it cool down I was able to get some more coolant in, but I can tell it’s still not at max capacity (it overheats). Please someone help. I am so new to DIY cars and it’s daunting doing everything myself as a 21 yr old female. I’ve already spent a lot at shops fixing other things and this is supposed to be simple but I can’t seem to do it 😢 Please please please help lol I just wanna drive my baby.
Bleed the cooling system. Get the air out of the Jeep 4.7 ... put a new serpentine belt on. Mine was shot. See that hex head plug with the orange sealer surrounding it? That is the plug I unscrew to burp the cooling system. I screw in a small plastic funnel after draining the cooling system for a change. I always jack the front of the Commander up so the engine is tilted just a tiny little bit. [My Commander has a natural lower rake look to it, high in the back] 1~Fill the radiator. 2~Test the radiator cap. Will the cap hold 19 lb. [my factory original cap failed to hold 4 lb.] 3~Put the cap back on. 4~Fill the overflow bottle at least halfway to the factory paint mark. 5~Keep filling coolant until the funnel is full. 6~Start the engine. Immediately the coolant will be sucked down into the engine, water pump, and hoses. 7~Keep adding coolant as the engine and thermostat warm. Don't allow air to go down the funnel. 8~Wait, keep filling if necessary. But keep the funnel full. A full funnel is the 'foot-head' and is the highest point in the cooling system. Watch the overflow bottle, it may go up. It may not. But it is there to keep any air out. 9~Once the engine is up to normal temperature and the funnel is still full, have a friend increase the engine rpm from idle to about 1,200 rpm ... the coolant will again be sucked down into the engine. Add more coolant. 10~When no more coolant will go down the funnel and still holding the 1,200 rpm steady ... remove the funnel and screw in the threaded hex plug. 11~at this point the cooling system is full and burped with no air pockets. You can't do better than that. Now can you? scontent-msp1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t39.30808-6/285347463_10160371359036098_8879653788977682329_n.jpg?stp=dst-jpg_s1080x2048&_nc_cat=103&ccb=1-7&_nc_sid=730e14&_nc_ohc=UhYQo_V8XN8AX8F8HhK&_nc_ht=scontent-msp1-1.xx&oh=00_AfDUZo8OofO-ofSV32SFcQId5z1Q-Vr8ouzADf6tptWhcg&oe=646DC372
It’s 2024, these no fill coolant funnels are now under 20 bucks. They work amazing even if you’re doing it as a one time precaution to make sure you’re coolant system is good, it’s worth the peace of mind
If you never had the rad changed or any work done to your car there is no reason to start bleeding a system it gets done once and u should never have a problem it could be a small head gasket leak starting even idle air control valve but if there are signs of overheating cheapest fix is change the rad cap or thermostat but many cars with high miles may be head gasket also if u smell antifreeze on a cold start it may be burning through your exhaust I recommend to do a compression test than wasting time bleeding a system that usually only gets done once.
I am a little confused tbh , if you remove that much coolant aren't you allowing air in somehow , or is there more pressure in the system because of less fluid and less air to create more pressure
So me and my brother just finished up our prerunner truck for those that don’t know what that is it’s a Baja race truck. The radiator is mounted in the bed up high the fill neck is level with the roof of the truck mounted to the roll cage. For now the truck has a fully stock motor an old Chevy 350 we have no idea what the flow rate or gpms of a stock water pump would be but the radiator hose is plumbed under the truck. We are going to try tomorrow to fill the radiator and see if all will be good if not I’m going to try and buy the same kit you have to pressure the coolant in to the system I wish that you would’ve posted a link to find it but it’s probably on Amazon
I can't get the bleed screw on the water pump out on my 2005 Dodge Magnum Hemi and using the big funnel with the extension that mounts it higher is all I need to fill the system.
I got a 1991 honda civic ,tha the rpm goes up and down aftergetsto a normaltemperature, I all ready change the idle valve, and still doing the same thing, yo think that's the problem?? Air in the cooling system? I'm going to try the blinding! Hopefully works, and thanks for your information sharing, big fan 👍!!
Did it work? I got a code for idle control valve so I took it off an cleaned it, now my idles going up an down like crazy, I know coolant runs through the iac valve so maybe when I took it off and put it on I got air in there?
Do you think not bleeding the air can cause a leak on the intake manifold? And sure enough I did noticed my idle going down when I hear the thermostat opening on
How do you apply the more expensive 3rd method with an air compressor and so on, while also taking advantage of any ''bleed valve or bleed screw'' your car comes with?
Got a code for bad thermostat. Replaced it. Drained n flushed the coolant. Bled the new coolant using a dpill free funnel. Got temp up to normal, but my cooling fan does not come on (it never did prior to replacing the thermostat) unless the AC is on. I also noticed the lower radiator hose is not warm. But im getting heat and no overheating. Could it be the coolamt temp sensors? I really hope its not a faulty thermostat that i purchased new. My check engine light keeps coming back on every two weeks giving me a bad thermostat code. P0128. Cooling fan comes on when the AC is on, so im assuming its not the relays or fuses? Maybe Re-bleed the system?
What if you have to remove a coolant hose, there is a "T" on this Lancer and the 2 big hoses are staying on but there is a 3rd smaller hose that needs to be removed so you can move the hoses out of the way to get access, do you have to bleed your system for that too? I am not removing any liquids just taking a hose off. Thanks.
My 2014 Mazda 3 manual says the OEM coolant is good for 10 yrs... Considering it might have been built in 2013 it will be 10 yrs old in 2023. Is it normal for newer cars to have that long coolant service intervals?
Bled the air out of my 97 Prelude and unfortunately still having idle hunting/searching issues. I cant find any vacuum leaks im lost on what to do. Might check the TPS voltage but i need to buy a volt meter
I have a 2017 Tacoma. Was doing a drain and fill. I filled the radiator and ran the engine with the heater on and didn’t really see any air bubbles. I was expecting the coolant level in the funnel kit to go down and add more as the thermostat opens. I test drove and temps seem normal.
I just took my 05 Magnum in. They replaced the water pump and when I got it back the heat was not working. Does that sound like they might have created the problem? Thanks.
My car only has an expansion tank and no radiator fill cap. Here is what the shop manual says to do: 1. Fill the system to the MAX mark and close the expansion tank cap. 2. Connect an exhaust hose. 3. Start the engine and let it run for a short while at varying speeds. 4. Top up with coolant ant screw on the expansion tank cap. 5. Run the engine at varying speeds until the thermostat opens (radiator fan has started). 6.Turn off the engine and top up with coolant to MAX if necessary.
I subscribed because of the system lol 👍🏼. What if my heater doesn’t work. Will it still work? I’m doing this to a 302 engine from 1990. No experience but have done everything to my car 😊
I have a Kia Spectra 2009 that is doing this. Because of the age of the car. I think it's more of an issue as to where this air is getting in. Where would you say that is happening? Could it be the cap itself or even the hoses??
Change the coolant in the coldest time of the year when cooling demand is the lowest. After ten minutes of running and squeezing on all the large hoses, when the engine cools a little open and refill. Do this a few times your coolant level will be fine. Any more will be drawn from the expansion tank after a month.
FYI, Harbor Freight sells an air operated vacuum pump for $17 right now in 2023. PITTSBURGH AUTOMOTIVEAir Vacuum Pump with R134A and R12 Connectors Downside is it uses AC fittings, so you'll need to frankenstein something. I don't need to change coolant very often. Wonder if doing a normal flush and refill, then pulling a vacuum and just refilling some more would work for 99%? Just replace the rad cap, drill and solder a fitting into the old one and done?
I have a 2.2 vtec accord from 1997 and on cold starts my idle will surge unless I hold the pedal very slightly to stop it from doing so until it gets warm then it idles perfectly fine. I’m not having overheating issues but I heard on these years idle is connected to the coolant system so I am curious what you think it may be thanks
I'd leave it alone don't waste your time removing screwing around with it ....I'd get the throttle body cleaned and get some injector cleaner such as techron u don't need to bleed anything if your not overheating and even still bleeding a system is only meant for when u replace antifreeze....air should not get in the system I never had to do this I have a 96 civic with 380k original headgasket never had any problems with doing this.....
Using the Lisle funnel and after I believe I've gotten all the air out, do I take the funnel off immediately or do I need to wait for the engine to cool down before removing it?
I have a 2000 mercury sable ls. I found a better way on the car care nut using bleeder valve. Can bleed the system with heat on without ac. It's has rear vents
Much appreciated. Very useful information, and enlightening. Especially pointing out that something so simple, such as air pockets in the cooling system could cause fluctuation in idle speed. No one else on any Jeep forum or informational video I've seen even gave this possibility as a problematic solution. It was also an excellent suggestion to raise the front of the vehicle while performing the process of removing air from the cooling system. Thanks again, your intelligence is appreciated. You not only gave one approach to doing this job but three. Very interesting, and thorough. 💯
great video but that's not always the problem if it fluctuates it could be a sign of a small head gasket leak especially if you smell antifreeze on a cold start up as it burns through the exhaust there really isn't a need to bleed air from a system if the car had a coolant flush years ago usually there is a problem that is starting ...I never had to bleed a system once its done right the first time......
@@jonathangoode1075 lifting the passenger side, with a Jack, definitely helped get most, if not all the air out? My heat is fine now, but I think they should use a bleeder screw, to make it much easier. Like the old days.
Those spill free funnels are life savers!!
Thanks man! I'm pretty sure 10-15yrs ago, I've gone "down that rabbit hole" chasing the iDLE problem. PLUS, your "coolant system flush explanation" is the best I've heard.
He's very good.A lot of people really suck at tutoring
All you have to do is let the car idle for a few minutes with the heater on the air will work itself out through the radiator cap
Straight to point
To remove excess. coolant from funnel, you can use the sprayer from a spray bottle and insert the stem into the fluid and spray it out into a container
Just get a dowel or piece of tube and put some electrical tape on it. The screwdriver and paper towel is even simpler and handier.
Turkey Baster ?
Very informative as in all your videos. I for one have always enjoyed everything you post, and even at 65 years of age and the fact that I have been wrenching since I was about 13 years old, you my Brother have certainly taught me more than a few new tricks of the trade.
Thanks for all you do and all the Awesome information you put out there for all of us.
Thank you. Your videos are the best I've seen. Your articulate, smart, and you explain so most people can understand. 5 star's.
Thanks again.
Agreed👍👍👍
This is the best explanation AND demonstration I have watched out of the 50 videos. Thank you!
Owww this was such a great guide to this kind of problem. Most people go directly to the sensors when they have this idle rpm bouncing on the engine. We sometimes have this problem when changing the cylinder head on maritime diesel engines, so we always drain the whole coolant from the system, change it and then fill it back again. Same problem, same fix but all and all completely different workarounds. Nice to see.
You really came up in the last several months so happy for you
I want to say that I know quite a bit about car mechanics but this guy has given me some knowledge I did not know. GREAT VIDEO!!!
Great job, have heard of this method, but never seen it demonstrated 👏👍 I usually just do the funnel method. Heck sometimes I dont even use a funnel, just keep topping it up and letting it burp 👍
They have those radiator funnel kits now. It’s awesome…next best thing since slice bread
Very good explanation on bleeding the system! I like the "take a shot when you hear system" idea but feel that I'd be plastered in no time! LOL Thanks for posting this.
Thank you for systematizing a systematic approach to this system, how to burp an engine cooling system. Much appreciated! 👍🏻😃
Thank you very much for the info and technique it worked wonderful. I will leave my detailed experience in case anyone has a similar scenario.
My 2016 Chrysler 200 only has an overflow tank so that is what i used the first method on and it worked flawlessly.
I parked on a decent slope with the tank at the high point but i also opened the radiator bleed valve (small plastic twisty boy) until the coolant came out in a steady flow while running at operating temp.
What brought me to this problem is that i opened a coolant line to get to another component and let in air while doing so. My main symptom was a sloshing or water faucet like sound when i accelerated, accompanied with a much weaker working heater core.
After properly bleeding the air as you described, plus the valve thing, all is well. Thank you again. Good luck to all reading !
I have my funnel in and my bleeder valve is open. Do I run the car to get the coolant to come out of the valve?
Amazing!! This helped me fix my overheating problem and rough idling
that might be a temp fix but you may have a head gasket issue starting ....if your car had antifreeze in it and never touched it there is no reason to bleed a system unless you replaced the antifreeze or did some work to your car such as a water pump or radiator....if you have high miles u may have a head gasket leak starting
@@fortnite360HZyou were exactly right! Had to do the yearly check and they found this to be the problem, they replaced the headgasket and now its working again
Very well described. Much more helpful than many other guys. Thanks.
Some just play music and say nothing.So frickin annoying.🙄🙄
One of the best demo's I've ever seen!
The gentleman speaks with such clarity, kept it real simple and yes, very knowledgeable
Thank you so much!
My 1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX has an idle surge at warm up and goes away once completely warmed up. Mechanics have never used a no sill funnel to bleed it out. I have replaced the IAC twice and it did nit solve my idle surge. Thank you forvthis video!
Thank You for the step by step video you made on this topic. I followed the same steps you suggested. I used a funnel. Everything went perfectly . All the air is out of my cooling system . Everything works perfect . Thank You . 😁😁😁😁😁
I love you man , how is the avocado trees doing
I remember the Florida locals calling those MUNNY TREES
GREAT presentation in all regards: slow, clear speech, good sequencing, solid video production. Nice! Thanks so much.
I LOVE my spill-free funnel!!! CHEERS from HERE!!!
I'll personally never bothered with my cooling system but I guess if I ever had to, I could do it, thanks to you. So thank you🤗
Had no idea air in the cooling system can cause the josh idle. Thanks for the tip.
A lot of knowledge very articulate, love it thank you 👍👍👍
I have a 2021 Acura. Just flushed the coolant. I used the spill less funnel, squeezed all the air out, I thought, but I’m only getting heat when I set the temp to high? If I go down to say, 85, or even lower, I get cool air. Any suggestions?
Can an air pocket be causing coolant loss? Maybe through evaporation? Not sure…
I tried all that I could but nothing seems to be purging the remaining air out of the system. I’m not sure where the it’s trapped but would someone be able to help? I have an 04 Toyota Celica
I recently replaced the thermostat (I made sure it actually worked, & then made sure to install the correct way). Did this procedure (minus elevating the coolant reservoir). I was able to massage lower hose until I didn’t hear any air. However can’t reach the upper hose due to other stuff being in the way. The reservoir on the breather cap side is half full, & I’m pretty sure it’s supposed to be completely full but can’t seem to get the system to refill it on it’s own. Any tips?
I also warmed up the engine to open the thermostat and then drove on an incline. After letting it cool down I was able to get some more coolant in, but I can tell it’s still not at max capacity (it overheats). Please someone help. I am so new to DIY cars and it’s daunting doing everything myself as a 21 yr old female. I’ve already spent a lot at shops fixing other things and this is supposed to be simple but I can’t seem to do it 😢 Please please please help lol I just wanna drive my baby.
Bravo 👏🏼
?: any concerns with rad hoses collapsing when under a vacuum ?
It's not too much vacuum, good hoses can take it easy, the keyword is GOOD hoses.
Bleed the cooling system. Get the air out of the Jeep 4.7 ... put a new serpentine belt on. Mine was shot.
See that hex head plug with the orange sealer surrounding it? That is the plug I unscrew to burp the cooling system.
I screw in a small plastic funnel after draining the cooling system for a change. I always jack the front of the Commander up so the engine is tilted just a tiny little bit. [My Commander has a natural lower rake look to it, high in the back]
1~Fill the radiator.
2~Test the radiator cap. Will the cap hold 19 lb. [my factory original cap failed to hold 4 lb.]
3~Put the cap back on.
4~Fill the overflow bottle at least halfway to the factory paint mark.
5~Keep filling coolant until the funnel is full.
6~Start the engine. Immediately the coolant will be sucked down into the engine, water pump, and hoses. 7~Keep adding coolant as the engine and thermostat warm. Don't allow air to go down the funnel.
8~Wait, keep filling if necessary. But keep the funnel full. A full funnel is the 'foot-head' and is the highest point in the cooling system. Watch the overflow bottle, it may go up. It may not. But it is there to keep any air out.
9~Once the engine is up to normal temperature and the funnel is still full, have a friend increase the engine rpm from idle to about 1,200 rpm ... the coolant will again be sucked down into the engine. Add more coolant.
10~When no more coolant will go down the funnel and still holding the 1,200 rpm steady ... remove the funnel and screw in the threaded hex plug.
11~at this point the cooling system is full and burped with no air pockets.
You can't do better than that. Now can you?
scontent-msp1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t39.30808-6/285347463_10160371359036098_8879653788977682329_n.jpg?stp=dst-jpg_s1080x2048&_nc_cat=103&ccb=1-7&_nc_sid=730e14&_nc_ohc=UhYQo_V8XN8AX8F8HhK&_nc_ht=scontent-msp1-1.xx&oh=00_AfDUZo8OofO-ofSV32SFcQId5z1Q-Vr8ouzADf6tptWhcg&oe=646DC372
It’s 2024, these no fill coolant funnels are now under 20 bucks. They work amazing even if you’re doing it as a one time precaution to make sure you’re coolant system is good, it’s worth the peace of mind
Can you link the vacuum tool, please? and the radiator cap kit please?
Thank you very much dude. I appreciate you going to go try that on my car now. I had the idle going up and down.
If you never had the rad changed or any work done to your car there is no reason to start bleeding a system it gets done once and u should never have a problem it could be a small head gasket leak starting even idle air control valve but if there are signs of overheating cheapest fix is change the rad cap or thermostat but many cars with high miles may be head gasket also if u smell antifreeze on a cold start it may be burning through your exhaust I recommend to do a compression test than wasting time bleeding a system that usually only gets done once.
I am a little confused tbh , if you remove that much coolant aren't you allowing air in somehow , or is there more pressure in the system because of less fluid and less air to create more pressure
I just have one question, where did you put the coolant that you removed from the funnel? did you put it back into the coolant reservoir?
So me and my brother just finished up our prerunner truck for those that don’t know what that is it’s a Baja race truck. The radiator is mounted in the bed up high the fill neck is level with the roof of the truck mounted to the roll cage. For now the truck has a fully stock motor an old Chevy 350 we have no idea what the flow rate or gpms of a stock water pump would be but the radiator hose is plumbed under the truck.
We are going to try tomorrow to fill the radiator and see if all will be good if not I’m going to try and buy the same kit you have to pressure the coolant in to the system I wish that you would’ve posted a link to find it but it’s probably on Amazon
I can't get the bleed screw on the water pump out on my 2005 Dodge Magnum Hemi and using the big funnel with the extension that mounts it higher is all I need to fill the system.
Will that tool you showcased for the 3rd method work with a small, portable air compressor?
I would be so hammered if I did a shot for the word System . Good video I did learn things I thought I already knew . Esp. The funnels. Ty
Nice video for us DIY'ers appreciate this video, thank you.
I got a 1991 honda civic ,tha the rpm goes up and down aftergetsto a normaltemperature, I all ready change the idle valve, and still doing the same thing, yo think that's the problem?? Air in the cooling system? I'm going to try the blinding! Hopefully works, and thanks for your information sharing, big fan 👍!!
Did it work? I got a code for idle control valve so I took it off an cleaned it, now my idles going up an down like crazy, I know coolant runs through the iac valve so maybe when I took it off and put it on I got air in there?
I have a 2014 jeep grand cherokee I tried bleed the radiator system for 2 day now and I still have cool air I'm looking for that strong heat
Do you think not bleeding the air can cause a leak on the intake manifold? And sure enough I did noticed my idle going down when I hear the thermostat opening on
How do you apply the more expensive 3rd method with an air compressor and so on, while also taking advantage of any ''bleed valve or bleed screw'' your car comes with?
I don’t think my Chevy 350 has a bleeder screw, if it does I’ve never seen it. Good info man thanks for explaining the details thoroughly.
Salute from Screwston TX 🤠
Got a code for bad thermostat. Replaced it. Drained n flushed the coolant. Bled the new coolant using a dpill free funnel. Got temp up to normal, but my cooling fan does not come on (it never did prior to replacing the thermostat) unless the AC is on. I also noticed the lower radiator hose is not warm. But im getting heat and no overheating. Could it be the coolamt temp sensors? I really hope its not a faulty thermostat that i purchased new. My check engine light keeps coming back on every two weeks giving me a bad thermostat code. P0128. Cooling fan comes on when the AC is on, so im assuming its not the relays or fuses? Maybe Re-bleed the system?
Thank you dear
What if you have to remove a coolant hose, there is a "T" on this Lancer and the 2 big hoses are staying on but there is a 3rd smaller hose that needs to be removed so you can move the hoses out of the way to get access, do you have to bleed your system for that too? I am not removing any liquids just taking a hose off. Thanks.
My 2014 Mazda 3 manual says the OEM coolant is good for 10 yrs...
Considering it might have been built in 2013 it will be 10 yrs old in 2023.
Is it normal for newer cars to have that long coolant service intervals?
Yes
Very Helpful With No Tools...
Thank You
Bled the air out of my 97 Prelude and unfortunately still having idle hunting/searching issues. I cant find any vacuum leaks im lost on what to do.
Might check the TPS voltage but i need to buy a volt meter
Here’s a tip, diy’ers definitely get themselves a spill free funnel. Professional, a coolant vacuum refiller is a must.
How much shop air to put in the vacuum generator through the radiator, I mean how many psi
I have a 2017 Tacoma. Was doing a drain and fill. I filled the radiator and ran the engine with the heater on and didn’t really see any air bubbles. I was expecting the coolant level in the funnel kit to go down and add more as the thermostat opens. I test drove and temps seem normal.
Awesome video, thanks!
Does this procedure work for a Gen 5 Prelude?
Can you please give a suggestion what pump to use? Thanks
So will it work if I jack the car up from the front instead of parking incline?
Same thing
Great job thanks for the introduction of information very good
I feel like the highest point in the system in a 2007 nissan murano is at the throttle body or where it meets the intake manifold
how do you pull a vacuum with the heater core or thermostat closed?
I just took my 05 Magnum in. They replaced the water pump and when I got it back the heat was not working. Does that sound like they might have created the problem? Thanks.
Which vacuum kit is that?
Yeah, except most systems don't have a radiator cap, they've got an overflow tank. What's the best way to do it on a more modern setup?
My car only has an expansion tank and no radiator fill cap. Here is what the shop manual says to do:
1. Fill the system to the MAX mark and close the expansion tank cap.
2. Connect an exhaust hose.
3. Start the engine and let it run for a short while at varying speeds.
4. Top up with coolant ant screw on the expansion tank cap.
5. Run the engine at varying speeds until the thermostat opens (radiator fan has started).
6.Turn off the engine and top up with coolant to MAX if necessary.
My overflow tank worked great for the first method. Anyone reading this i left a detailed comment in the thread explaining my experience. Good luck !
What are you 12?
@@chadcovey1626 No, add 70 years
Same process just use the overflow tank
Also, sometimes the radiator cap is cold when it overheats and loses power to be able to accelerate further.
I subscribed because of the system lol 👍🏼. What if my heater doesn’t work. Will it still work? I’m doing this to a 302 engine from 1990. No experience but have done everything to my car 😊
I'm drunk😂
I'm high😂
cheers. I'll drink to that
Can i use the same method on the Coolant tank in my Mercedes w212? Instead of on the radiator like you do.
Full of information! Thanks!
I don't know why I ended up drunk. Too much alcohol in my "System" perhaps LOL!!!!
Shit up I'm trying to watch somebody talk about Asian cars so please shush
Hey, hey, hey, going great, got a new video up!👍 Bought a coolant funnel with a T plug, very helpful.
What about newer vehicles that gave no radiator cap?
Another great video!nice looking shop!
Salud to "the system" hermano!! LOL, I swear, didn't noticed until you mentioned it then, it was all I was hearing. 😅 Great video though!
I have a Kia Spectra 2009 that is doing this. Because of the age of the car. I think it's more of an issue as to where this air is getting in. Where would you say that is happening? Could it be the cap itself or even the hoses??
Change the coolant in the coldest time of the year when cooling demand is the lowest. After ten minutes of running and squeezing on all the large hoses, when the engine cools a little open and refill. Do this a few times your coolant level will be fine. Any more will be drawn from the expansion tank after a month.
I use a kats coolant heater I installed it the other day below my water pump inlet
Hej how bleed air if cap is on reserve botel and can we bleed after we change coolan 1 month befor?. Thanks in advance
We don’t have a Honda we have a 2008 Pontiac torrent, how do I refill the cooling system?
FYI, Harbor Freight sells an air operated vacuum pump for $17 right now in 2023. PITTSBURGH AUTOMOTIVEAir Vacuum Pump with R134A and R12 Connectors
Downside is it uses AC fittings, so you'll need to frankenstein something. I don't need to change coolant very often.
Wonder if doing a normal flush and refill, then pulling a vacuum and just refilling some more would work for 99%?
Just replace the rad cap, drill and solder a fitting into the old one and done?
Thanks Man, Really Appreciate your Vedio😅
I have a 2.2 vtec accord from 1997 and on cold starts my idle will surge unless I hold the pedal very slightly to stop it from doing so until it gets warm then it idles perfectly fine. I’m not having overheating issues but I heard on these years idle is connected to the coolant system so I am curious what you think it may be thanks
I'd leave it alone don't waste your time removing screwing around with it ....I'd get the throttle body cleaned and get some injector cleaner such as techron u don't need to bleed anything if your not overheating and even still bleeding a system is only meant for when u replace antifreeze....air should not get in the system I never had to do this I have a 96 civic with 380k original headgasket never had any problems with doing this.....
Dude, keep up the good work. A pleasure to watch your content!! lmao @ "system" = a shot
Using the Lisle funnel and after I believe I've gotten all the air out, do I take the funnel off immediately or do I need to wait for the engine to cool down before removing it?
I have a 2000 mercury sable ls. I found a better way on the car care nut using bleeder valve. Can bleed the system with heat on without ac. It's has rear vents
Would you know at what temperature does my electric fans kick In 2003 Honda civic ?
the fans kick in based on what thermostat u are using if its a performance one or stock they have different temp ratings
Cool video thanks.
I have a question, when doing this, why does my thermostat not open?
CAN YOU PLEASE DO a VIDEO for a vehicle that DOESN'T HAVE A RADIATOR CAP?! Is it the same?!
So professional. Thank pal 👊👊
How I to do it if I don’t have shop air
Bleeding a K20Z3 is an absolute pain. I bet that vac method would make that so much easier
GREAT MECHANIC & EXCELLENT TEACHER 👍🙏
Will not bleeding coolant system cause car to lose coolant and overheat?
My 1994 cd5 accord DX coupe needs LOWERED. It came with 18's, and I've never had rims OR lowered a car. iLove the Prelude btw.
Excellent, thanks.
Thank you so very much!