Much appreciated. Very useful information, and enlightening. Especially pointing out that something so simple, such as air pockets in the cooling system could cause fluctuation in idle speed. No one else on any Jeep forum or informational video I've seen even gave this possibility as a problematic solution. It was also an excellent suggestion to raise the front of the vehicle while performing the process of removing air from the cooling system. Thanks again, your intelligence is appreciated. You not only gave one approach to doing this job but three. Very interesting, and thorough. 💯
great video but that's not always the problem if it fluctuates it could be a sign of a small head gasket leak especially if you smell antifreeze on a cold start up as it burns through the exhaust there really isn't a need to bleed air from a system if the car had a coolant flush years ago usually there is a problem that is starting ...I never had to bleed a system once its done right the first time......
@@jonathangoode1075 lifting the passenger side, with a Jack, definitely helped get most, if not all the air out? My heat is fine now, but I think they should use a bleeder screw, to make it much easier. Like the old days.
Thanks man! I'm pretty sure 10-15yrs ago, I've gone "down that rabbit hole" chasing the iDLE problem. PLUS, your "coolant system flush explanation" is the best I've heard.
Very informative as in all your videos. I for one have always enjoyed everything you post, and even at 65 years of age and the fact that I have been wrenching since I was about 13 years old, you my Brother have certainly taught me more than a few new tricks of the trade. Thanks for all you do and all the Awesome information you put out there for all of us.
Owww this was such a great guide to this kind of problem. Most people go directly to the sensors when they have this idle rpm bouncing on the engine. We sometimes have this problem when changing the cylinder head on maritime diesel engines, so we always drain the whole coolant from the system, change it and then fill it back again. Same problem, same fix but all and all completely different workarounds. Nice to see.
Great job, have heard of this method, but never seen it demonstrated 👏👍 I usually just do the funnel method. Heck sometimes I dont even use a funnel, just keep topping it up and letting it burp 👍
To remove excess. coolant from funnel, you can use the sprayer from a spray bottle and insert the stem into the fluid and spray it out into a container
Thank You for the step by step video you made on this topic. I followed the same steps you suggested. I used a funnel. Everything went perfectly . All the air is out of my cooling system . Everything works perfect . Thank You . 😁😁😁😁😁
Thank you very much for the info and technique it worked wonderful. I will leave my detailed experience in case anyone has a similar scenario. My 2016 Chrysler 200 only has an overflow tank so that is what i used the first method on and it worked flawlessly. I parked on a decent slope with the tank at the high point but i also opened the radiator bleed valve (small plastic twisty boy) until the coolant came out in a steady flow while running at operating temp. What brought me to this problem is that i opened a coolant line to get to another component and let in air while doing so. My main symptom was a sloshing or water faucet like sound when i accelerated, accompanied with a much weaker working heater core. After properly bleeding the air as you described, plus the valve thing, all is well. Thank you again. Good luck to all reading !
Very good explanation on bleeding the system! I like the "take a shot when you hear system" idea but feel that I'd be plastered in no time! LOL Thanks for posting this.
My 1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX has an idle surge at warm up and goes away once completely warmed up. Mechanics have never used a no sill funnel to bleed it out. I have replaced the IAC twice and it did nit solve my idle surge. Thank you forvthis video!
that might be a temp fix but you may have a head gasket issue starting ....if your car had antifreeze in it and never touched it there is no reason to bleed a system unless you replaced the antifreeze or did some work to your car such as a water pump or radiator....if you have high miles u may have a head gasket leak starting
@@fortnite360HZyou were exactly right! Had to do the yearly check and they found this to be the problem, they replaced the headgasket and now its working again
If you never had the rad changed or any work done to your car there is no reason to start bleeding a system it gets done once and u should never have a problem it could be a small head gasket leak starting even idle air control valve but if there are signs of overheating cheapest fix is change the rad cap or thermostat but many cars with high miles may be head gasket also if u smell antifreeze on a cold start it may be burning through your exhaust I recommend to do a compression test than wasting time bleeding a system that usually only gets done once.
It’s 2024, these no fill coolant funnels are now under 20 bucks. They work amazing even if you’re doing it as a one time precaution to make sure you’re coolant system is good, it’s worth the peace of mind
Bleed the cooling system. Get the air out of the Jeep 4.7 ... put a new serpentine belt on. Mine was shot. See that hex head plug with the orange sealer surrounding it? That is the plug I unscrew to burp the cooling system. I screw in a small plastic funnel after draining the cooling system for a change. I always jack the front of the Commander up so the engine is tilted just a tiny little bit. [My Commander has a natural lower rake look to it, high in the back] 1~Fill the radiator. 2~Test the radiator cap. Will the cap hold 19 lb. [my factory original cap failed to hold 4 lb.] 3~Put the cap back on. 4~Fill the overflow bottle at least halfway to the factory paint mark. 5~Keep filling coolant until the funnel is full. 6~Start the engine. Immediately the coolant will be sucked down into the engine, water pump, and hoses. 7~Keep adding coolant as the engine and thermostat warm. Don't allow air to go down the funnel. 8~Wait, keep filling if necessary. But keep the funnel full. A full funnel is the 'foot-head' and is the highest point in the cooling system. Watch the overflow bottle, it may go up. It may not. But it is there to keep any air out. 9~Once the engine is up to normal temperature and the funnel is still full, have a friend increase the engine rpm from idle to about 1,200 rpm ... the coolant will again be sucked down into the engine. Add more coolant. 10~When no more coolant will go down the funnel and still holding the 1,200 rpm steady ... remove the funnel and screw in the threaded hex plug. 11~at this point the cooling system is full and burped with no air pockets. You can't do better than that. Now can you? scontent-msp1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t39.30808-6/285347463_10160371359036098_8879653788977682329_n.jpg?stp=dst-jpg_s1080x2048&_nc_cat=103&ccb=1-7&_nc_sid=730e14&_nc_ohc=UhYQo_V8XN8AX8F8HhK&_nc_ht=scontent-msp1-1.xx&oh=00_AfDUZo8OofO-ofSV32SFcQId5z1Q-Vr8ouzADf6tptWhcg&oe=646DC372
I got a 1991 honda civic ,tha the rpm goes up and down aftergetsto a normaltemperature, I all ready change the idle valve, and still doing the same thing, yo think that's the problem?? Air in the cooling system? I'm going to try the blinding! Hopefully works, and thanks for your information sharing, big fan 👍!!
Did it work? I got a code for idle control valve so I took it off an cleaned it, now my idles going up an down like crazy, I know coolant runs through the iac valve so maybe when I took it off and put it on I got air in there?
I subscribed because of the system lol 👍🏼. What if my heater doesn’t work. Will it still work? I’m doing this to a 302 engine from 1990. No experience but have done everything to my car 😊
I have a 2017 Tacoma. Was doing a drain and fill. I filled the radiator and ran the engine with the heater on and didn’t really see any air bubbles. I was expecting the coolant level in the funnel kit to go down and add more as the thermostat opens. I test drove and temps seem normal.
I have a 2021 Acura. Just flushed the coolant. I used the spill less funnel, squeezed all the air out, I thought, but I’m only getting heat when I set the temp to high? If I go down to say, 85, or even lower, I get cool air. Any suggestions?
I am a little confused tbh , if you remove that much coolant aren't you allowing air in somehow , or is there more pressure in the system because of less fluid and less air to create more pressure
Okay I took a shot every time you said system and now I am HIGHLY INTOXICATED!!!!! Your fault!!!!! Now I have to wait until tomorrow to complete the job.
My 2014 Mazda 3 manual says the OEM coolant is good for 10 yrs... Considering it might have been built in 2013 it will be 10 yrs old in 2023. Is it normal for newer cars to have that long coolant service intervals?
I can't get the bleed screw on the water pump out on my 2005 Dodge Magnum Hemi and using the big funnel with the extension that mounts it higher is all I need to fill the system.
Change the coolant in the coldest time of the year when cooling demand is the lowest. After ten minutes of running and squeezing on all the large hoses, when the engine cools a little open and refill. Do this a few times your coolant level will be fine. Any more will be drawn from the expansion tank after a month.
My car only has an expansion tank and no radiator fill cap. Here is what the shop manual says to do: 1. Fill the system to the MAX mark and close the expansion tank cap. 2. Connect an exhaust hose. 3. Start the engine and let it run for a short while at varying speeds. 4. Top up with coolant ant screw on the expansion tank cap. 5. Run the engine at varying speeds until the thermostat opens (radiator fan has started). 6.Turn off the engine and top up with coolant to MAX if necessary.
Got a code for bad thermostat. Replaced it. Drained n flushed the coolant. Bled the new coolant using a dpill free funnel. Got temp up to normal, but my cooling fan does not come on (it never did prior to replacing the thermostat) unless the AC is on. I also noticed the lower radiator hose is not warm. But im getting heat and no overheating. Could it be the coolamt temp sensors? I really hope its not a faulty thermostat that i purchased new. My check engine light keeps coming back on every two weeks giving me a bad thermostat code. P0128. Cooling fan comes on when the AC is on, so im assuming its not the relays or fuses? Maybe Re-bleed the system?
Do you think not bleeding the air can cause a leak on the intake manifold? And sure enough I did noticed my idle going down when I hear the thermostat opening on
How do you apply the more expensive 3rd method with an air compressor and so on, while also taking advantage of any ''bleed valve or bleed screw'' your car comes with?
I tried all that I could but nothing seems to be purging the remaining air out of the system. I’m not sure where the it’s trapped but would someone be able to help? I have an 04 Toyota Celica I recently replaced the thermostat (I made sure it actually worked, & then made sure to install the correct way). Did this procedure (minus elevating the coolant reservoir). I was able to massage lower hose until I didn’t hear any air. However can’t reach the upper hose due to other stuff being in the way. The reservoir on the breather cap side is half full, & I’m pretty sure it’s supposed to be completely full but can’t seem to get the system to refill it on it’s own. Any tips? I also warmed up the engine to open the thermostat and then drove on an incline. After letting it cool down I was able to get some more coolant in, but I can tell it’s still not at max capacity (it overheats). Please someone help. I am so new to DIY cars and it’s daunting doing everything myself as a 21 yr old female. I’ve already spent a lot at shops fixing other things and this is supposed to be simple but I can’t seem to do it 😢 Please please please help lol I just wanna drive my baby.
I have a 2000 mercury sable ls. I found a better way on the car care nut using bleeder valve. Can bleed the system with heat on without ac. It's has rear vents
Using the Lisle funnel and after I believe I've gotten all the air out, do I take the funnel off immediately or do I need to wait for the engine to cool down before removing it?
What if you have to remove a coolant hose, there is a "T" on this Lancer and the 2 big hoses are staying on but there is a 3rd smaller hose that needs to be removed so you can move the hoses out of the way to get access, do you have to bleed your system for that too? I am not removing any liquids just taking a hose off. Thanks.
I have a Kia Spectra 2009 that is doing this. Because of the age of the car. I think it's more of an issue as to where this air is getting in. Where would you say that is happening? Could it be the cap itself or even the hoses??
Anyone who could explain this, I would greatly appreciate it. So I've been having overheating symptoms since flushing my radiator. I had air in the system, finally realized what the problem was. While I was having problems with overheating, my oil pressure went up. After I got the air out of the system, my oil pressure went down and overheating symptom disappeared. Is high oil pressure with air in the radiator normal?
is it safe to keep the cap off for 20 min? I see white smoke coming out of it. Trying to bleed the coolant currently, but hesitant cap is off and it's not pressurized even though engine is at operating temp.
I just took my 05 Magnum in. They replaced the water pump and when I got it back the heat was not working. Does that sound like they might have created the problem? Thanks.
I have a 2.2 vtec accord from 1997 and on cold starts my idle will surge unless I hold the pedal very slightly to stop it from doing so until it gets warm then it idles perfectly fine. I’m not having overheating issues but I heard on these years idle is connected to the coolant system so I am curious what you think it may be thanks
I'd leave it alone don't waste your time removing screwing around with it ....I'd get the throttle body cleaned and get some injector cleaner such as techron u don't need to bleed anything if your not overheating and even still bleeding a system is only meant for when u replace antifreeze....air should not get in the system I never had to do this I have a 96 civic with 380k original headgasket never had any problems with doing this.....
Much appreciated. Very useful information, and enlightening. Especially pointing out that something so simple, such as air pockets in the cooling system could cause fluctuation in idle speed. No one else on any Jeep forum or informational video I've seen even gave this possibility as a problematic solution. It was also an excellent suggestion to raise the front of the vehicle while performing the process of removing air from the cooling system. Thanks again, your intelligence is appreciated. You not only gave one approach to doing this job but three. Very interesting, and thorough. 💯
great video but that's not always the problem if it fluctuates it could be a sign of a small head gasket leak especially if you smell antifreeze on a cold start up as it burns through the exhaust there really isn't a need to bleed air from a system if the car had a coolant flush years ago usually there is a problem that is starting ...I never had to bleed a system once its done right the first time......
@@jonathangoode1075 lifting the passenger side, with a Jack, definitely helped get most, if not all the air out? My heat is fine now, but I think they should use a bleeder screw, to make it much easier. Like the old days.
Thanks man! I'm pretty sure 10-15yrs ago, I've gone "down that rabbit hole" chasing the iDLE problem. PLUS, your "coolant system flush explanation" is the best I've heard.
He's very good.A lot of people really suck at tutoring
Very informative as in all your videos. I for one have always enjoyed everything you post, and even at 65 years of age and the fact that I have been wrenching since I was about 13 years old, you my Brother have certainly taught me more than a few new tricks of the trade.
Thanks for all you do and all the Awesome information you put out there for all of us.
Those spill free funnels are life savers!!
Owww this was such a great guide to this kind of problem. Most people go directly to the sensors when they have this idle rpm bouncing on the engine. We sometimes have this problem when changing the cylinder head on maritime diesel engines, so we always drain the whole coolant from the system, change it and then fill it back again. Same problem, same fix but all and all completely different workarounds. Nice to see.
I want to say that I know quite a bit about car mechanics but this guy has given me some knowledge I did not know. GREAT VIDEO!!!
Great job, have heard of this method, but never seen it demonstrated 👏👍 I usually just do the funnel method. Heck sometimes I dont even use a funnel, just keep topping it up and letting it burp 👍
Thank you. Your videos are the best I've seen. Your articulate, smart, and you explain so most people can understand. 5 star's.
Thanks again.
Agreed👍👍👍
To remove excess. coolant from funnel, you can use the sprayer from a spray bottle and insert the stem into the fluid and spray it out into a container
Just get a dowel or piece of tube and put some electrical tape on it. The screwdriver and paper towel is even simpler and handier.
Turkey Baster ?
Thank You for the step by step video you made on this topic. I followed the same steps you suggested. I used a funnel. Everything went perfectly . All the air is out of my cooling system . Everything works perfect . Thank You . 😁😁😁😁😁
They have those radiator funnel kits now. It’s awesome…next best thing since slice bread
One of the best demo's I've ever seen!
The gentleman speaks with such clarity, kept it real simple and yes, very knowledgeable
Thank you so much!
This is the best explanation AND demonstration I have watched out of the 50 videos. Thank you!
You really came up in the last several months so happy for you
Thank you very much for the info and technique it worked wonderful. I will leave my detailed experience in case anyone has a similar scenario.
My 2016 Chrysler 200 only has an overflow tank so that is what i used the first method on and it worked flawlessly.
I parked on a decent slope with the tank at the high point but i also opened the radiator bleed valve (small plastic twisty boy) until the coolant came out in a steady flow while running at operating temp.
What brought me to this problem is that i opened a coolant line to get to another component and let in air while doing so. My main symptom was a sloshing or water faucet like sound when i accelerated, accompanied with a much weaker working heater core.
After properly bleeding the air as you described, plus the valve thing, all is well. Thank you again. Good luck to all reading !
I have my funnel in and my bleeder valve is open. Do I run the car to get the coolant to come out of the valve?
I'll personally never bothered with my cooling system but I guess if I ever had to, I could do it, thanks to you. So thank you🤗
I love you man , how is the avocado trees doing
I remember the Florida locals calling those MUNNY TREES
Very well described. Much more helpful than many other guys. Thanks.
Some just play music and say nothing.So frickin annoying.🙄🙄
Very good explanation on bleeding the system! I like the "take a shot when you hear system" idea but feel that I'd be plastered in no time! LOL Thanks for posting this.
My 1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX has an idle surge at warm up and goes away once completely warmed up. Mechanics have never used a no sill funnel to bleed it out. I have replaced the IAC twice and it did nit solve my idle surge. Thank you forvthis video!
Amazing!! This helped me fix my overheating problem and rough idling
that might be a temp fix but you may have a head gasket issue starting ....if your car had antifreeze in it and never touched it there is no reason to bleed a system unless you replaced the antifreeze or did some work to your car such as a water pump or radiator....if you have high miles u may have a head gasket leak starting
@@fortnite360HZyou were exactly right! Had to do the yearly check and they found this to be the problem, they replaced the headgasket and now its working again
I don’t think my Chevy 350 has a bleeder screw, if it does I’ve never seen it. Good info man thanks for explaining the details thoroughly.
GREAT presentation in all regards: slow, clear speech, good sequencing, solid video production. Nice! Thanks so much.
Had no idea air in the cooling system can cause the josh idle. Thanks for the tip.
Thank you very much dude. I appreciate you going to go try that on my car now. I had the idle going up and down.
If you never had the rad changed or any work done to your car there is no reason to start bleeding a system it gets done once and u should never have a problem it could be a small head gasket leak starting even idle air control valve but if there are signs of overheating cheapest fix is change the rad cap or thermostat but many cars with high miles may be head gasket also if u smell antifreeze on a cold start it may be burning through your exhaust I recommend to do a compression test than wasting time bleeding a system that usually only gets done once.
A lot of knowledge very articulate, love it thank you 👍👍👍
It’s 2024, these no fill coolant funnels are now under 20 bucks. They work amazing even if you’re doing it as a one time precaution to make sure you’re coolant system is good, it’s worth the peace of mind
I LOVE my spill-free funnel!!! CHEERS from HERE!!!
Here’s a tip, diy’ers definitely get themselves a spill free funnel. Professional, a coolant vacuum refiller is a must.
I would be so hammered if I did a shot for the word System . Good video I did learn things I thought I already knew . Esp. The funnels. Ty
Bleed the cooling system. Get the air out of the Jeep 4.7 ... put a new serpentine belt on. Mine was shot.
See that hex head plug with the orange sealer surrounding it? That is the plug I unscrew to burp the cooling system.
I screw in a small plastic funnel after draining the cooling system for a change. I always jack the front of the Commander up so the engine is tilted just a tiny little bit. [My Commander has a natural lower rake look to it, high in the back]
1~Fill the radiator.
2~Test the radiator cap. Will the cap hold 19 lb. [my factory original cap failed to hold 4 lb.]
3~Put the cap back on.
4~Fill the overflow bottle at least halfway to the factory paint mark.
5~Keep filling coolant until the funnel is full.
6~Start the engine. Immediately the coolant will be sucked down into the engine, water pump, and hoses. 7~Keep adding coolant as the engine and thermostat warm. Don't allow air to go down the funnel.
8~Wait, keep filling if necessary. But keep the funnel full. A full funnel is the 'foot-head' and is the highest point in the cooling system. Watch the overflow bottle, it may go up. It may not. But it is there to keep any air out.
9~Once the engine is up to normal temperature and the funnel is still full, have a friend increase the engine rpm from idle to about 1,200 rpm ... the coolant will again be sucked down into the engine. Add more coolant.
10~When no more coolant will go down the funnel and still holding the 1,200 rpm steady ... remove the funnel and screw in the threaded hex plug.
11~at this point the cooling system is full and burped with no air pockets.
You can't do better than that. Now can you?
scontent-msp1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t39.30808-6/285347463_10160371359036098_8879653788977682329_n.jpg?stp=dst-jpg_s1080x2048&_nc_cat=103&ccb=1-7&_nc_sid=730e14&_nc_ohc=UhYQo_V8XN8AX8F8HhK&_nc_ht=scontent-msp1-1.xx&oh=00_AfDUZo8OofO-ofSV32SFcQId5z1Q-Vr8ouzADf6tptWhcg&oe=646DC372
I don't know why I ended up drunk. Too much alcohol in my "System" perhaps LOL!!!!
Shit up I'm trying to watch somebody talk about Asian cars so please shush
Bravo 👏🏼
?: any concerns with rad hoses collapsing when under a vacuum ?
It's not too much vacuum, good hoses can take it easy, the keyword is GOOD hoses.
I got a 1991 honda civic ,tha the rpm goes up and down aftergetsto a normaltemperature, I all ready change the idle valve, and still doing the same thing, yo think that's the problem?? Air in the cooling system? I'm going to try the blinding! Hopefully works, and thanks for your information sharing, big fan 👍!!
Did it work? I got a code for idle control valve so I took it off an cleaned it, now my idles going up an down like crazy, I know coolant runs through the iac valve so maybe when I took it off and put it on I got air in there?
Salute from Screwston TX 🤠
I subscribed because of the system lol 👍🏼. What if my heater doesn’t work. Will it still work? I’m doing this to a 302 engine from 1990. No experience but have done everything to my car 😊
Nice video for us DIY'ers appreciate this video, thank you.
Very Helpful With No Tools...
Thank You
Awesome video, thanks!
Great job thanks for the introduction of information very good
Can an air pocket be causing coolant loss? Maybe through evaporation? Not sure…
I bought a rubber plug at Home Depot to put in the bottom of the funnel for about a buck.
Bleeding a K20Z3 is an absolute pain. I bet that vac method would make that so much easier
Another great video!nice looking shop!
Salud to "the system" hermano!! LOL, I swear, didn't noticed until you mentioned it then, it was all I was hearing. 😅 Great video though!
I have a 2017 Tacoma. Was doing a drain and fill. I filled the radiator and ran the engine with the heater on and didn’t really see any air bubbles. I was expecting the coolant level in the funnel kit to go down and add more as the thermostat opens. I test drove and temps seem normal.
I have a 2021 Acura. Just flushed the coolant. I used the spill less funnel, squeezed all the air out, I thought, but I’m only getting heat when I set the temp to high? If I go down to say, 85, or even lower, I get cool air. Any suggestions?
Hey, hey, hey, going great, got a new video up!👍 Bought a coolant funnel with a T plug, very helpful.
I use a kats coolant heater I installed it the other day below my water pump inlet
I'm drunk😂
I'm high😂
cheers. I'll drink to that
My 1994 cd5 accord DX coupe needs LOWERED. It came with 18's, and I've never had rims OR lowered a car. iLove the Prelude btw.
Full of information! Thanks!
I am a little confused tbh , if you remove that much coolant aren't you allowing air in somehow , or is there more pressure in the system because of less fluid and less air to create more pressure
Okay I took a shot every time you said system and now I am HIGHLY INTOXICATED!!!!!
Your fault!!!!!
Now I have to wait until tomorrow to complete the job.
I just have one question, where did you put the coolant that you removed from the funnel? did you put it back into the coolant reservoir?
My 2014 Mazda 3 manual says the OEM coolant is good for 10 yrs...
Considering it might have been built in 2013 it will be 10 yrs old in 2023.
Is it normal for newer cars to have that long coolant service intervals?
Yes
Dude, keep up the good work. A pleasure to watch your content!! lmao @ "system" = a shot
Will that tool you showcased for the 3rd method work with a small, portable air compressor?
I can't get the bleed screw on the water pump out on my 2005 Dodge Magnum Hemi and using the big funnel with the extension that mounts it higher is all I need to fill the system.
Thanks Man, Really Appreciate your Vedio😅
Cool video thanks.
Change the coolant in the coldest time of the year when cooling demand is the lowest. After ten minutes of running and squeezing on all the large hoses, when the engine cools a little open and refill. Do this a few times your coolant level will be fine. Any more will be drawn from the expansion tank after a month.
Can you link the vacuum tool, please? and the radiator cap kit please?
Airlift works great
GREAT MECHANIC & EXCELLENT TEACHER 👍🙏
Can you please give a suggestion what pump to use? Thanks
So professional. Thank pal 👊👊
Yeah, except most systems don't have a radiator cap, they've got an overflow tank. What's the best way to do it on a more modern setup?
My car from 2011 has both.
My car only has an expansion tank and no radiator fill cap. Here is what the shop manual says to do:
1. Fill the system to the MAX mark and close the expansion tank cap.
2. Connect an exhaust hose.
3. Start the engine and let it run for a short while at varying speeds.
4. Top up with coolant ant screw on the expansion tank cap.
5. Run the engine at varying speeds until the thermostat opens (radiator fan has started).
6.Turn off the engine and top up with coolant to MAX if necessary.
My overflow tank worked great for the first method. Anyone reading this i left a detailed comment in the thread explaining my experience. Good luck !
What are you 12?
@@chadcovey1626 No, add 70 years
Followed your advice. Now I'm seven shots in and shit faced.
Got a code for bad thermostat. Replaced it. Drained n flushed the coolant. Bled the new coolant using a dpill free funnel. Got temp up to normal, but my cooling fan does not come on (it never did prior to replacing the thermostat) unless the AC is on. I also noticed the lower radiator hose is not warm. But im getting heat and no overheating. Could it be the coolamt temp sensors? I really hope its not a faulty thermostat that i purchased new. My check engine light keeps coming back on every two weeks giving me a bad thermostat code. P0128. Cooling fan comes on when the AC is on, so im assuming its not the relays or fuses? Maybe Re-bleed the system?
Also, sometimes the radiator cap is cold when it overheats and loses power to be able to accelerate further.
Do you think not bleeding the air can cause a leak on the intake manifold? And sure enough I did noticed my idle going down when I hear the thermostat opening on
Excellent, thanks.
Thank you dear
How do you apply the more expensive 3rd method with an air compressor and so on, while also taking advantage of any ''bleed valve or bleed screw'' your car comes with?
I tried all that I could but nothing seems to be purging the remaining air out of the system. I’m not sure where the it’s trapped but would someone be able to help? I have an 04 Toyota Celica
I recently replaced the thermostat (I made sure it actually worked, & then made sure to install the correct way). Did this procedure (minus elevating the coolant reservoir). I was able to massage lower hose until I didn’t hear any air. However can’t reach the upper hose due to other stuff being in the way. The reservoir on the breather cap side is half full, & I’m pretty sure it’s supposed to be completely full but can’t seem to get the system to refill it on it’s own. Any tips?
I also warmed up the engine to open the thermostat and then drove on an incline. After letting it cool down I was able to get some more coolant in, but I can tell it’s still not at max capacity (it overheats). Please someone help. I am so new to DIY cars and it’s daunting doing everything myself as a 21 yr old female. I’ve already spent a lot at shops fixing other things and this is supposed to be simple but I can’t seem to do it 😢 Please please please help lol I just wanna drive my baby.
good video
Thank you so very much!
I have a 2000 mercury sable ls. I found a better way on the car care nut using bleeder valve. Can bleed the system with heat on without ac. It's has rear vents
So will it work if I jack the car up from the front instead of parking incline?
Same thing
You are the best !
Using the Lisle funnel and after I believe I've gotten all the air out, do I take the funnel off immediately or do I need to wait for the engine to cool down before removing it?
Does this procedure work for a Gen 5 Prelude?
What if you have to remove a coolant hose, there is a "T" on this Lancer and the 2 big hoses are staying on but there is a 3rd smaller hose that needs to be removed so you can move the hoses out of the way to get access, do you have to bleed your system for that too? I am not removing any liquids just taking a hose off. Thanks.
I have a Kia Spectra 2009 that is doing this. Because of the age of the car. I think it's more of an issue as to where this air is getting in. Where would you say that is happening? Could it be the cap itself or even the hoses??
Thanks man.
Can i use the same method on the Coolant tank in my Mercedes w212? Instead of on the radiator like you do.
How much shop air to put in the vacuum generator through the radiator, I mean how many psi
Nice job
Thx man 👍
I use a vacum system. No aorlocks and no mess.
Anyone who could explain this, I would greatly appreciate it. So I've been having overheating symptoms since flushing my radiator. I had air in the system, finally realized what the problem was. While I was having problems with overheating, my oil pressure went up. After I got the air out of the system, my oil pressure went down and overheating symptom disappeared. Is high oil pressure with air in the radiator normal?
is it safe to keep the cap off for 20 min? I see white smoke coming out of it. Trying to bleed the coolant currently, but hesitant cap is off and it's not pressurized even though engine is at operating temp.
How is the bleeder screw used with the third method?
I just took my 05 Magnum in. They replaced the water pump and when I got it back the heat was not working. Does that sound like they might have created the problem? Thanks.
how do you pull a vacuum with the heater core or thermostat closed?
Thanks u
What about bleeding air out of closed system ????????
I have a 2.2 vtec accord from 1997 and on cold starts my idle will surge unless I hold the pedal very slightly to stop it from doing so until it gets warm then it idles perfectly fine. I’m not having overheating issues but I heard on these years idle is connected to the coolant system so I am curious what you think it may be thanks
I'd leave it alone don't waste your time removing screwing around with it ....I'd get the throttle body cleaned and get some injector cleaner such as techron u don't need to bleed anything if your not overheating and even still bleeding a system is only meant for when u replace antifreeze....air should not get in the system I never had to do this I have a 96 civic with 380k original headgasket never had any problems with doing this.....
Thanks