😂 Yo.. Literally the first thing I said was, he sound just like Bizzy Bone 😂 Great video, clear precise instructions. I’ve been trying to bleed my system as well
@@renj6531 YUP.. I’m seeing it now as well… looks like El Debarge, sounds like Bizzy Bone.. This brother is world famous on THREE levels. His talent and automotive knowledge being first and foremost.
Grear video my Brother ....I had these over heating issues going on with my 03 malibu...I did every thing you showed in the video ...and now that problems solved thanks to you....you save me a lot of money and i'm greatful I stumbled across you channel....now I'm a member....keep up the excellent work !!!
On some pesky vehicles you should leave the funnel on after done burping and shut vehicle off 3-5 min, then let it run a couple and repeat if needed. Be amazed on some cars how much air comes out after you let it cool and restart. Good video sir!
Did this on my Ram tonight. Lots of air bubbled up out of the cooling system. That funnel made it so easy. Will have to wait till brakes are finished to take it for a quick spin. Theyre next on the list.
I've been using this kit for decades. However, you need to have access directly to the radiator. I've had Ford's and VW's which only have access through the reservoir bottle. For this design without a radiator cap, I fill the system completely, squeeze the bottom radiator hose several times with the cap off the reservoir bottle in order to "burp" the air out of it. Then I fill the system again, put the cap back on and drive the car/truck until it is completely warmed up. When I park it, I check the reservoir level and top off as necessary. Then I come back after the engine has completely cooled down to see if it needs any more. Note that the heater temperature control should be turned fully open to the hottest position to ensure the coolant goes through the heater coil and purges the air out of it. Also, be sure you only add the proper coolant. Different car manufacturers require different types and color the coolants differently for a reason. Even then, DO NOT MIX different colors, grades or brands of coolant without doing some research. You can do permanent damage to the engine and cooling system. Do NOT use a "universal" coolant. There is no such thing. Spend a few extra bucks for the good stuff. You only need to do this every 30K miles, at most.
Alex! Your ARE the Man! Totally appreciate your style of presentation and your way of not glossing over things. Instructions are incredibly thorough and helpful. Thanks!!
I worked at a Chrysler dealer for 10 years and I found that the Chargers and 300s love to retain air in the cooling system. One thing I found that always worked great was to take that small hose off of the top of the tank, plug off the nipple on the tank, fill the tank and put my pressure tester on it and pump coolant into it until it flows out of the small hose. I got so frustrated with not getting heat until I came up with this method. Also if it’s a hemi, take out the bleeder screw or coolant temp sensor on the water pump and fill it with the engine off until coolant flows out. Even the vacuum fill method doesn’t work that great on these cars.
Not a Chrysler but my Ford Focus Zetec motor had no bleeder but did have a small hose coming out of the thermostat housing to heat up something on intake manifold and when filling I would pop the hose off and fill till coolant started coming out then pop it back on.
I have a 2003 Honda Civic LX with no bleeder valve and did everything this man did and it still didn't work. What I found out later is that you leave that funnel with coolant attached after shutting off the engine. Do not plug it. Let the coolant and engine cool overnight. As the coolant in the radiator and engine gets cold it contracts creating a vacuum sucking more coolant from the funnel. If you remove the fumnel too early, you risk sucking in air instead.
hola amigo, te explico, purgar el sistema de enfriamiento no es sencillo y a veces toma mas sesiones, hay que tener paciencia, pero el procedimiento es el mismo que nos muestra el video, cuando veas que deja de burbujear, debes tapar para que el sistema se presurice, si ves que aun tienes aire, debes dejar enfriar completamente y volver a purgar, recuerda que debes tener tu deposito a nivel superior del radiador del núcleo del calentador, ahora bien si dejas tu sistema de enfriamiento sin tapa entrara aire al sistema y tendras que volver a expulsarlo.
@@markhunka I re-used factory hose clamps one time and had the lower radiator hose blow off while I was driving. A few of my co-workers (diesel & auto mechanics) told me to switch to worm gears instead so that's what I do now, and haven't had any issues.
Thanks mate .from Thailand .Got stuck with air in the system in the middle of no where due to a turbo hose breaking . I followed your instructions and low and behold ....perfect. Quick fix on the side of the road .again thank you
I love how easy you explain everything. Im not a car guy and i was able to do this to my girls car. I was proud of myself lol. Great video. God bless you brother
I’m 23 and a 3 year technician I learned from a very smart tech when I started to ALWAYS refill with a coolant vacuum filler. I’ve NEVER had issues with car overheating because of air inside the coolant system. I work at CarMax and have refilled every brand make/model you can think of.
This is great info! I had work done recently at a highly regarding local mechanic shop and they replaced my 100,000 mile hoses. After getting the car back I noticed it sounded like a washing machine under my hood. Thank you for solving my problem. I suspect the mechanic didn't re fill the car with coolant and air pockets resulted.
I wish I had watched this video before sending my car to the dealership. They ended up doing a bad service that costed me 200 bucks. Now I have air in my system, and the header is intermittent because of that. If don't solve my problem, I will follow your method. Thanks!
Thanks Alex!! This is an old post I know, but something you said made me really take notice! I changed my thermostat and was getting an ECT sensor that was reporting only 145 degs to the ECM and running in closed loop all the time in the winter (now) and giving me HORRIBLE gas mileage (22 in summer 12 in winter) the gauge would go from half and 194 Degs then the gauge would fall to near cool and 145 degs and very little heat. I was thinking I had a bubble sitting in the system around the ECT sensor (I changed that out twice, as well as the Thermostat both under warranty) I just couldn't believe I had air in there and it must have been a bad part. But I have to believe that is what is going on...Man, I hate the vehicles with the reservoir, or degassing tank as some people call them. Sorry for the long post, But thank you for this video, ordering the kit now! BTW, if you or anyone else has an alternate idea, I sure would appreciate the comments!..Peace
Single Mother of twins,and no car knowledge outside of regular maintenance for oil changes. It took me an hour to get everything done on my 2011 Nissan just watching your video, and running a cold and heat cycle twice🤌🏽🦋 I truly appreciate you
I thought that I was going to have to do something with the sensor since that was the code that was thrown, because the check engine light was on. Then I realized after watching some vids that the problem was that the system needed to be burped. As when the car's computer is throwing other codes but the fix was simply an air hose that wasn't on right, or needed to be switched out. Anyway, I'm glad I watched your video because otherwise I would've forgot to put the heater on high.
So doing it the old fashioned way I turn the HEAT all the way up and not the fan, right? Then when the fans DO come on and there are no more bubbles, it's done, right? My vehicle does not have the 'bleeder screw'.
Your so informational thank you! I replaced thermostat water pump and radiator, but I forgot to bleed the system. Temperature gauge keeps fluctuating what should I do? 2018 Dodge Durango
Did my first water pump on my Equinox as well as changed all the hoses and the belt as those parts were original GM with 189,000 miles on them. This was my last step and very helpful as this car doesn't have a radiator cap either, only the reservoir.
I DID EVERYTHING YOU DID BUT I DID IT ASS BACKWARDS... NOW I WATCHED THIS VIDEO AND SEE MY ERRORS NOW I CAN START OVER AND DO IT CORRECTLY. LUCKILY I HADNT USED MY COOLANT YET ... ITHAS HEAT BUT NOT HOT HEAT SO HALF WAY HEAT DONT GET IT IN THE SNOW... THANKS FOR A VERY UNDERSTANDABLE WALK THROUGH .GOD BLESS
Temperature control on max heat and blower fan on lowest speed. You want max hot coolant flow. Heat causes air to expand thereby facilitating air removal. High blower fan speed will make heater core act like a miniature radiator cooling the fluid but you want some air movement so you can confirm engine heat.
Great info! Mr. Alex, I’ve never used a burping funnel like that. I usually raise the front end slightly to help the air bubbles move to the radiator cap. Would I still need to do that with this funnel? I have a 2013 wrangler jk. Thanks!
Nope since it sets up to the highest point for air to escape. Other comments say to leave it on, and let it cool down a few cycles and see if the fluid level drops. I do 3 heat cool cycles just because i don't want to deal with the air bleed valve 😅 Up to you if it makes you feel better though but you'll see how high the funnel makes it so much easier to burp it
@@AlexTheCarDoctor Here's a question. I noticed you didn't jack up the car being the traditional method. Is this method no longer required? I ask because I'm told for Infinti's and Nissans it's ideal and helps any air escape faster. Also last question. If there's no noises from the water pump, no signs of leaks, no smelling of coolant in the cabin, yet, the car overheats as shown by the gauge. Would you think it's trapped air and would trapped air make the coolant rise in the funnel? Because right now when I rev to 3K RPM I notice the gauge goes up vs when it's idle it stays dead center. So, I am hoping...truly hoping...this is not a blown gasket considering I had a new engine installed and checked.
@@ttvmikrowave hey there jacking up is a good way but I’ve never use that method because I’ve always use these methods and it worked great. if you bleed the cooling system. The next step would be to do a block test
@@AlexTheCarDoctor Can't be the block or the heater core as the engine is new. After talking with my friend who's a shop owner he said most likely there's a massive air pocket that's restricting the coolant from flowing properly. Thus, why at idle and during revving the coolant backs up into the funnel; followed by overspilling -- even when there's no remaining coolant being topped off in the funnel. So, I decided to let Jiffylube use a vacuum device to drain and refill things properly; as air likely got into my system during the engine swap. 🙄🤦🏾♂️
Really found this video helpful. Flushed my heater core and my 95 subaru was over heating probably because air in the system. Going to try this tomorrow
Damn great video! It was like having a friend explain it to me.... my trailblazer started running hot a couple days after adding coolant so im gonna be a big girl and see if I can do this!
I have a 2010 dodge charger I have replaced the radiator, water pump, thermostat and water reservoir. The car still overheats when it is driven several miles. The car can idle for 45 minutes to an hour and not run hot. Any suggestions?
Thank you for this video! I accidentally broke off the bleeder valve so I think I can do it from the funnel from the reservoir for my 1999 Chevy Malibu using the funnel method. Thank you this helps a lot!
Mr. Alex. The Car Doctor. I ran across your video. It was very informative, helpful , educational and useful. I am in the process of performing radiator cap test, checking and flushing the radiators on my classic cars along with my daily. Thank you from the Rockey Mountain States 👍🏻😉🙏🏻✝️🇺🇸🏎️⛽️
Best to remember, those doing this on a diesel, check to see if you need to add an additive 'SCA'. I personally bought the 50/50 as the SCA coolant already had the SCA additive included in the coolant, and use the recommended coolant for your particular vehicle, as there are many types/brands on the market.
I like say thank you, You video has been the best so far, We have a Chrysler 300, And the engine in the blue car looks about the same. Now I've just gotta find where's leaking from.😒 Just wanted to add, I didn't know that's why the heater wasn't coming on.... Working properly.
Hi Alex! I Hope you’re well? I have a question for you, I would like to know how to refill and bleed the coolant system on a Jeep GRAND CHEROKEE SRT? Because, I tried to look how to, and nobody say the same thing… I mean someone tell to remove a sensor, others tell to just make a massage… so I prefer to be sure instead of burning the motor 😅… Thanks a lot for your answer Best regards
Thanks for the good video. My bleeder screw did most of the burping, but I used a regular funnel to burp it some more afterwards, also squeezing the upper radiator hose. I'm going to buy one of the funnels you're showing. That looks useful. I could not initially get the bleeder screw to open and got an air lock. I was going to replace my water pump after the first clean and flush. But since the bleeder screw (on the water pump) wouldn't open, I decided to drain all I could, then replace the water pump with good bleeder screw and that working bleeder burped my 5.7 hemi. Scary when air pockets cause overheat.
I just did a 2004 Dodge Neon SXT 2.0l Radiator, upper and lower hoses, thermostat and cap and the transmission cooler lines all without removing the intake manifold or sucking down the A/C like they tell you to do oh what a job that was lots of fun, but she is done and it’s like a brand new car again.
I’ve read that you want to pre-mix (shake) the coolant and water in a bottle before pouring back in. I’m no mechanic, so I wanted to get your take on that.
I wish I could get full strength Toyota Red Coolant gallons but I never see them offered anywhere When I did use full strength, I would mix the distilled water and the coolant in a clean 5-gallon pail first. I then would add it to the radiator. What bled out of the car in your video was likely pure full coolant. But if you pre-mixed out of the car, the discharge would have been half water saving half coolant.
Had high mileage car I bought, developed cooling problems in summer. Blew a lot of coolant out overheating and then it was still messed up after refilling. Turns out it had bleeder valves I didn't know about. I figured them out and got a lot of air out , then it worked better but it was hard to get air to come out. Later I drained the system and filled with water, since it was hot summer, and drove it. Drained and refilled over next couple weeks, every other day or so. After a couple few weeks it was all cleared out and I noticed being cleared out better I didn't even have to use the bleeder valve anymore. It got the air out by itself.
Great video brotherman....I'm having alot of trouble on 06 nissan xterra. Changed rad and stat...now overheating and temp guage fluctuating ... very frustrating. .at idle temp climbs Rev up and temp immediately drops....ugh
Got this funnel and did the 2nd method with it... Was scared of breaking the air bleed bolt in some engines since they're hard to access I do 3 heat cool cycles in my driveway because I wanted to be sure no air is in the system 😅 Tool payed for itself after maintaining 5 cars in my family 😊 Of course, use distilled water with the coolant mixture in the system
2007 Mercedes GL450 I changed Radiator was leaking at idle air goes to cool as soon as i rev engine gets hot drove car about 5 times now still the same i ordered funnel like you have hope this helps hoping not any type of headgasket issue it does have 230000 miles!
Guess I've been doing it wrong all along. I opened the bleeder valve and started the engine as per another video suggestion. I'll do it your way from now on. Thanks
I have a 15 Chrysler 200 3.6 that overheated on me friday.. Found the water pump leaking, replaced it and the dang car is still overheating.. no leaks though. These cars are a massive pita to bleed air out of the coolant system.. may have to try this..
What about the engine block? Does it need drained as well when flushing? Been struggling finding the block drain plugs on my challenger and the ones I think are it seem like a pain. Was just going to try and take off the lower radiator hose and hope it drained it. Any advice would be appreciated, great video my man.
Hey there unfortunately auto makers put the block drain plugs in some crazy spots,I normally just pull the bottom hose like you mentioned, good luck buddy
Great video. Loved it. If you replace the thermostat, on a 2015 Suburban,, and some air gets into the upper radiator hose, will the vehicle naturally clear it out as you run the heater?
Not necessarily it will bubble and gargle and possibly run hot, it’s best to run the vehicle with the cap off while massaging the upper radiator hose like in the video
Good video. If you put a vinyl hose on bleeder nipple the extends to the funnel or up several inches you will save some coolant and make less of a mess. Also you committed with 100% concentrate early on with a lot I. The funnel. If it would have filled before draining you would have put in no water. Think I would mix before at whatever proper % and then pour that in the funnel. Thanks
Thank you for sharing! Very informative and helpful! Thank you again. My only question is, when you bleed the line with the bleed valve screw and coolant comes out, should I clean up any coolant that got over some engine parts or is it okay? Read online that if you do spill some you need to clean it up. I flushed my coolant without the no spill funnel and it overflowed. Cleaned it up as best as I could. Do you think it’s okay? Would love your input and feedback. Thank you👍🏽👍🏽
yeah man thanks, I have a 2011 Mercedes CLS550 and installed a new thermostat and I keep having to fill it with antifreeze, the pressure in the system is causing overheating, water gurgling up from the reservoir overflow, I can hear all the air gurgling in the system and overheated the engine today. Upper radiator hose blew off, ugly. So I believe there is way too much air in the system. One think I did not do was turn on the heater. Thanks for the video
Great video. I have a 2010 infiniti g37x and i always find myself topping off coolant in radiator , and the overfill tank to max. Overtime, the overfill tank goes empty, also i can hear coolant splashing in dash on low rpms. Could this indicate a head gasket leak, or just massive air inside of the system?
Hey there buddy sorry to hear you having problems, on those G 37 engines there are small coolant hoses that tends to leak that may be the problem with yours and eventually air gets in the system causing that noise
Awesome video. If I didn’t bleed or burp my car after I changed the coolant temp sensor would that cause problems to my coolant thermostat? I think I messed up. Any advice? Thanks!
You are the truth with these cars bro. I just not long ago replace the water pump in my car. I got to replace the thermostat, then I am going to do just what you showed on this video. The car as of now does heat up a bit too much. So hopefully this works without hitch. I followed your video on the same 2.7 engine water pump replacement. Keep up the excellent work on video's like these. Actual guides that work and are correct. I will keep watching and telling others about your work. Thanks man.
Thanks for the support. I’m glad you are enjoying the videos, I really enjoy making them and teaching you good people new things.keep me posted on everything with your car
Hello friend, I am a Dodge technician here in Chile, I just received a Charger hemi 5.7, 2012, the customer indicates that he replaced the lower radiator hose because it was leaking from a clamp and he flushed the coolant, bleeding it. We check, the heater works fine at maximum speed, we will test it, we start the engine and when the water temperature exceeds 204 F, the coolant begins to rise and come out through the hose in the cover, then the fans activate at approximately 217 F until the coolant temperature reaches 194 F, this is when the coolant drops back down. The temperature needle is always in the middle and does not overheat. Additionally, when the air conditioning is turned on, the refrigerant remains stable between the minimum and maximum levels at 194 F, estimated to be because the electric fans are in constant use, but when the cabin ventilation is turned off it rises again. at 217 F along with the coolant overflowing again coming out of the tank cap hose, then the electric fan and lowers the coolant temperature again to 194 F, and lowers the coolant in the tank again, we have the following hypothesis; 1- that the mixture is not 50/50, that the cause of the problem is the coolant, it has excess distilled water, therefore it does not support the temperature 2- the problem is caused by the tank lid, which does not support the pressure
@@AlexTheCarDoctor Hello friend, indeed today we proceeded to carry out different tests and we kept an old metal coolant tank cap. We tested it and after carrying out several driving cycles in the city and on the highway, the coolant works correctly, the updated black plastic cap that Mopar sells it is not very possibly it is not good.
Hi Alex, I recently changed a thermostat on my 2015 challenger sxt. Before i started the job i picked up two bottles of peak north American coolent. Its orange OAT. When i drained the radiator the fluid that came out is purple. Under further investigation i read that dodge dyes their oat coolent purple. I ended mixing the two. Please tell me im not going to cause catastrophic failure. I still might do a flush and fill with OE purple.
Great video! May I know if I can do it without opening the bleeder valve? (I am not sure if mine has one.) As air should exit the highest point, which is the tunnel, it should still work, but it is just a matter of taking extra time?
When using this funnel, does it not overfill the coolant resevouir? There is normaly a max fill line, but surely this will fill it completly. I don't get it lol. cheers
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Lifes been tough for Bizzy Bone since BTNH broke up, thanks for the help😁
Lol
😂
Yo..
Literally the first thing I said was, he sound just like Bizzy Bone 😂
Great video, clear precise instructions.
I’ve been trying to bleed my system as well
😂😂😂😂
@@thirddayfilms6489your right but i was gonna say el debarge
@@renj6531 YUP.. I’m seeing it now as well… looks like El Debarge, sounds like Bizzy Bone..
This brother is world famous on THREE levels.
His talent and automotive knowledge being first and foremost.
Grear video my Brother ....I had these over heating issues going on with my 03 malibu...I did every thing you showed in the video ...and now that problems solved thanks to you....you save me a lot of money and i'm greatful I stumbled across you channel....now I'm a member....keep up the excellent work !!!
Thanks brother I appreciate your support
I didnt want to leave u a comment normally cause u got 420 comments but great video.
Thanks a million I couldn't have done it without you!
So if I don't have heat I can do this
Thank you! Car Dr. For that info. You are the man.❤
On some pesky vehicles you should leave the funnel on after done burping and shut vehicle off 3-5 min, then let it run a couple and repeat if needed. Be amazed on some cars how much air comes out after you let it cool and restart. Good video sir!
Yup, I did 3 heat- cool cycles and saw the level drop 😮
This is a great tool since it places the level at the highest point for air to bubble out
@@Joeo-qk2du Specially true for small radiators and cooling systems
After watching 3 other videos, yours is the best, Alex. Straight talk and no jive!
Thanks so much for the feedback and your support I will keep them coming
Am a mechanic from Nigeria, this is the best ways i think is to bleed air out of the system, i just learnt something new from you. Thanks ❤.
Thank you for watching sir 🇳🇬
Did this on my Ram tonight. Lots of air bubbled up out of the cooling system. That funnel made it so easy. Will have to wait till brakes are finished
to take it for a quick spin. Theyre next on the list.
I've been using this kit for decades. However, you need to have access directly to the radiator. I've had Ford's and VW's which only have access through the reservoir bottle.
For this design without a radiator cap, I fill the system completely, squeeze the bottom radiator hose several times with the cap off the reservoir bottle in order to "burp" the air out of it. Then I fill the system again, put the cap back on and drive the car/truck until it is completely warmed up. When I park it, I check the reservoir level and top off as necessary. Then I come back after the engine has completely cooled down to see if it needs any more.
Note that the heater temperature control should be turned fully open to the hottest position to ensure the coolant goes through the heater coil and purges the air out of it.
Also, be sure you only add the proper coolant. Different car manufacturers require different types and color the coolants differently for a reason. Even then, DO NOT MIX different colors, grades or brands of coolant without doing some research. You can do permanent damage to the engine and cooling system. Do NOT use a "universal" coolant. There is no such thing. Spend a few extra bucks for the good stuff. You only need to do this every 30K miles, at most.
Thanks for the comment
Been using universal fluid in every truck/car iv ever had and never had an issue.
Alex! Your ARE the Man! Totally appreciate your style of presentation and your way of not glossing over things. Instructions are incredibly thorough and helpful. Thanks!!
I appreciate your feedback! Thanks for watching 🤗
From an old mechanic, well done!
Just managed to sort my sons heater airlock with the help of your video. Very user friendly even for me a 46 year old dog groomer with no clue! Thanks
I worked at a Chrysler dealer for 10 years and I found that the Chargers and 300s love to retain air in the cooling system. One thing I found that always worked great was to take that small hose off of the top of the tank, plug off the nipple on the tank, fill the tank and put my pressure tester on it and pump coolant into it until it flows out of the small hose. I got so frustrated with not getting heat until I came up with this method. Also if it’s a hemi, take out the bleeder screw or coolant temp sensor on the water pump and fill it with the engine off until coolant flows out. Even the vacuum fill method doesn’t work that great on these cars.
Thanks for the advice buddy new tricks I love it
Man I’ve been struggling getting the air out of the Chrysler 300. I’m gonna try that trick and see if it works for me
Not a Chrysler but my Ford Focus Zetec motor had no bleeder but did have a small hose coming out of the thermostat housing to heat up something on intake manifold and when filling I would pop the hose off and fill till coolant started coming out then pop it back on.
@@user-kw5ze5ky5q No lies. My little 3.6 gets abused by me. I run it!! Likes to blow thermostats!! This bleeding is a must know!!
Nice work Alex. I like the way you mix factory and old school tech. I'm an old dog and it's great to get advice from a young dude like you!
Thanks for the support buddy
I have a 2003 Honda Civic LX with no bleeder valve and did everything this man did and it still didn't work. What I found out later is that you leave that funnel with coolant attached after shutting off the engine. Do not plug it. Let the coolant and engine cool overnight. As the coolant in the radiator and engine gets cold it contracts creating a vacuum sucking more coolant from the funnel. If you remove the fumnel too early, you risk sucking in air instead.
@@senatedocument2646 Isn’t that what the overflow is for. It will just suck it out of the overflow that’s why you check the level after it cools
hola amigo, te explico, purgar el sistema de enfriamiento no es sencillo y a veces toma mas sesiones, hay que tener paciencia, pero el procedimiento es el mismo que nos muestra el video, cuando veas que deja de burbujear, debes tapar para que el sistema se presurice, si ves que aun tienes aire, debes dejar enfriar completamente y volver a purgar, recuerda que debes tener tu deposito a nivel superior del radiador del núcleo del calentador, ahora bien si dejas tu sistema de enfriamiento sin tapa entrara aire al sistema y tendras que volver a expulsarlo.
Always use factory coolant ,and distilled water otherwise just throwing your money away,also always reuse factory hose clamps,they keep constant tension unlike garbage worm gear clamps
@@markhunka I re-used factory hose clamps one time and had the lower radiator hose blow off while I was driving. A few of my co-workers (diesel & auto mechanics) told me to switch to worm gears instead so that's what I do now, and haven't had any issues.
What about rain water
Thanks mate .from Thailand .Got stuck with air in the system in the middle of no where due to a turbo hose breaking . I followed your instructions and low and behold ....perfect. Quick fix on the side of the road .again thank you
That is so awesome. You just made my day! Thanks for watching!
I love how easy you explain everything. Im not a car guy and i was able to do this to my girls car. I was proud of myself lol. Great video. God bless you brother
Thanks for watching buddy,I’m glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for the blessing
I’m 23 and a 3 year technician I learned from a very smart tech when I started to ALWAYS refill with a coolant vacuum filler. I’ve NEVER had issues with car overheating because of air inside the coolant system. I work at CarMax and have refilled every brand make/model you can think of.
This is great info! I had work done recently at a highly regarding local mechanic shop and they replaced my 100,000 mile hoses. After getting the car back I noticed it sounded like a washing machine under my hood. Thank you for solving my problem. I suspect the mechanic didn't re fill the car with coolant and air pockets resulted.
I wish I had watched this video before sending my car to the dealership. They ended up doing a bad service that costed me 200 bucks. Now I have air in my system, and the header is intermittent because of that. If don't solve my problem, I will follow your method. Thanks!
Alex you did an excellent job explaining everything I actually ended up doing this myself thanks to your video.👍
It makes me happy that you was able to learn from my video, thanks for watching
😅😅@@AlexTheCarDoctor
Thanks Alex!! This is an old post I know, but something you said made me really take notice! I changed my thermostat and was getting an ECT sensor that was reporting only 145 degs to the ECM and running in closed loop all the time in the winter (now) and giving me HORRIBLE gas mileage (22 in summer 12 in winter) the gauge would go from half and 194 Degs then the gauge would fall to near cool and 145 degs and very little heat. I was thinking I had a bubble sitting in the system around the ECT sensor (I changed that out twice, as well as the Thermostat both under warranty) I just couldn't believe I had air in there and it must have been a bad part. But I have to believe that is what is going on...Man, I hate the vehicles with the reservoir, or degassing tank as some people call them. Sorry for the long post, But thank you for this video, ordering the kit now!
BTW, if you or anyone else has an alternate idea, I sure would appreciate the comments!..Peace
Single Mother of twins,and no car knowledge outside of regular maintenance for oil changes. It took me an hour to get everything done on my 2011 Nissan just watching your video, and running a cold and heat cycle twice🤌🏽🦋 I truly appreciate you
This is my favorite comment ever! I’m glad I could help. YOU GO GIRL!
Outstanding my dude! I came late to the party but happy to be part of the fam now my dude. Knowledge you can trust and understand, Solid!
Thanks for your support buddy
One of the best automotive DIY videos I've ever watched on YT. Top quality. Thank you!
Wow, thanks!
just found your page and gave me the answer i was looking for, subscribed and liked, thank you sir, Bob
The best video for this type of procedure I’ve seen. Well done!
Thanks brother
I thought that I was going to have to do something with the sensor since that was the code that was thrown, because the check engine light was on. Then I realized after watching some vids that the problem was that the system needed to be burped. As when the car's computer is throwing other codes but the fix was simply an air hose that wasn't on right, or needed to be switched out. Anyway, I'm glad I watched your video because otherwise I would've forgot to put the heater on high.
Turns out it was the sensor after all. I guess it's been a process.
So doing it the old fashioned way I turn the HEAT all the way up and not the fan, right? Then when the fans DO come on and there are no more bubbles, it's done, right? My vehicle does not have the 'bleeder screw'.
Good video my man. Finally easy explanation and good instruction. Thank you.
Thanks for watching buddy I’m glad you enjoyed it
Your so informational thank you! I replaced thermostat water pump and radiator, but I forgot to bleed the system. Temperature gauge keeps fluctuating what should I do? 2018 Dodge Durango
That’s your problem after you bleed it everything should be OK
Did my first water pump on my Equinox as well as changed all the hoses and the belt as those parts were original GM with 189,000 miles on them. This was my last step and very helpful as this car doesn't have a radiator cap either, only the reservoir.
Glad I was able to help
That was good information thank you. And I'm happy that you didn't just slam through it as well as show people how to use a burping funnel. Well done
My pleasure thanks for watching
I appreciate this video brother. Explained everything greatly 🙏🏾
Appreciate you taking time to do this video. Very easy to follow.
Great video. I like how you keep it real. Spills happen. 👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks buddy
I DID EVERYTHING YOU DID BUT I DID IT ASS BACKWARDS... NOW I WATCHED THIS VIDEO AND SEE MY ERRORS NOW I CAN START OVER AND DO IT CORRECTLY. LUCKILY I HADNT USED MY COOLANT YET ... ITHAS HEAT BUT NOT HOT HEAT SO HALF WAY HEAT DONT GET IT IN THE SNOW... THANKS FOR A VERY UNDERSTANDABLE WALK THROUGH .GOD BLESS
You just make it more down to earth man. Needed this to get ready to change the rad on my G35
Temperature control on max heat and blower fan on lowest speed. You want max hot coolant flow. Heat causes air to expand thereby facilitating air removal. High blower fan speed will make heater core act like a miniature radiator cooling the fluid but you want some air movement so you can confirm engine heat.
Thank you very much, Alex! This was just what I needed. Keep up the good work (Nice to see YOU sharing your knowledge)!
I’m glad you enjoyed my video. I will keep them coming
Great info! Mr. Alex, I’ve never used a burping funnel like that. I usually raise the front end slightly to help the air bubbles move to the radiator cap. Would I still need to do that with this funnel? I have a 2013 wrangler jk. Thanks!
Nope since it sets up to the highest point for air to escape.
Other comments say to leave it on, and let it cool down a few cycles and see if the fluid level drops.
I do 3 heat cool cycles just because i don't want to deal with the air bleed valve 😅
Up to you if it makes you feel better though but you'll see how high the funnel makes it so much easier to burp it
Thank you, simplified the bleeding process for me !
I’m glad you enjoyed it thanks for watching
Great video
Thank you for being a cool person.
No thank you for watching and your support
JUST BOUGHT ONE OF THOSE FUNNEL..NOW I KNOW HOW TO USED IT..THANK YOU.
Damn good video sir! You hit on all the things us newbs would need to know, very informative and great delivery 👏🏽
Thanks so much! Glad I can help 😊
@@AlexTheCarDoctor Here's a question. I noticed you didn't jack up the car being the traditional method. Is this method no longer required? I ask because I'm told for Infinti's and Nissans it's ideal and helps any air escape faster. Also last question. If there's no noises from the water pump, no signs of leaks, no smelling of coolant in the cabin, yet, the car overheats as shown by the gauge. Would you think it's trapped air and would trapped air make the coolant rise in the funnel? Because right now when I rev to 3K RPM I notice the gauge goes up vs when it's idle it stays dead center. So, I am hoping...truly hoping...this is not a blown gasket considering I had a new engine installed and checked.
@@ttvmikrowave hey there jacking up is a good way but I’ve never use that method because I’ve always use these methods and it worked great. if you bleed the cooling system. The next step would be to do a block test
@@AlexTheCarDoctor Can't be the block or the heater core as the engine is new. After talking with my friend who's a shop owner he said most likely there's a massive air pocket that's restricting the coolant from flowing properly. Thus, why at idle and during revving the coolant backs up into the funnel; followed by overspilling -- even when there's no remaining coolant being topped off in the funnel. So, I decided to let Jiffylube use a vacuum device to drain and refill things properly; as air likely got into my system during the engine swap. 🙄🤦🏾♂️
Really found this video helpful. Flushed my heater core and my 95 subaru was over heating probably because air in the system. Going to try this tomorrow
Damn great video! It was like having a friend explain it to me.... my trailblazer started running hot a couple days after adding coolant so im gonna be a big girl and see if I can do this!
Thanks for watching. I’m here for you if you need any advice just ask I’m an open book and love to help
I have a 2010 dodge charger I have replaced the radiator, water pump, thermostat and water reservoir. The car still overheats when it is driven several miles. The car can idle for 45 minutes to an hour and not run hot. Any suggestions?
I got the same problem on my 2004 jeep liberty
Same on 2018. No issues while idling. Driving on the highway, especially if pushing it hard, temp starts to go up to 3/4 of the way.
Thank you for this video! I accidentally broke off the bleeder valve so I think I can do it from the funnel from the reservoir for my 1999 Chevy Malibu using the funnel method. Thank you this helps a lot!
You sure can this funnel is a lifesaver
@@AlexTheCarDoctor is using the cap ok if I don’t have the funnel?
@@unitedwestanddividedwefall3521 you can just leave the cap off for the process
I have a 2006 Saturn Ion and it don't have a radiator cap. Not sure if it has a bleeder valve. Learned a lot from your videos. Thank you.
You just got yourself another subscriber man great video. Very informative and straight forward keep making great content!
Thanks brother
Mr. Alex. The Car Doctor. I ran across your video. It was very informative, helpful , educational and useful. I am in the process of performing radiator cap test, checking and flushing the radiators on my classic cars along with my daily. Thank you from the Rockey Mountain States 👍🏻😉🙏🏻✝️🇺🇸🏎️⛽️
Keep those dodge charger videos up... Already did this 4 months ago it was pretty easy, watching for the extra knowledge for next time.
a trick : you can watch movies on kaldrostream. Been using them for watching all kinds of movies these days.
@Alvaro Chaim definitely, have been watching on KaldroStream for years myself :D
Alex you are good boy , please never change your good heart. Thank you . God bless you
Thank you! I won’t ever change 😉
Thanks Alex, good explanation of how to do this important step when servicing your cooling system.
Look like a honest mechanic .nice vid . experience problems now with this issue 😮
Best to remember, those doing this on a diesel, check to see if you need to add an additive 'SCA'. I personally bought the 50/50 as the SCA coolant already had the SCA additive included in the coolant, and use the recommended coolant for your particular vehicle, as there are many types/brands on the market.
Great job and video. I agree with you to not trust the bleeder screw to be sure all air is out. going to do my car now. thanks!!!!!
I like say thank you, You video has been the best so far, We have a Chrysler 300, And the engine in the blue car looks about the same. Now I've just gotta find where's leaking from.😒 Just wanted to add, I didn't know that's why the heater wasn't coming on.... Working properly.
Glad it helped
Hi Alex! I Hope you’re well?
I have a question for you, I would like to know how to refill and bleed the coolant system on a Jeep GRAND CHEROKEE SRT? Because, I tried to look how to, and nobody say the same thing… I mean someone tell to remove a sensor, others tell to just make a massage… so I prefer to be sure instead of burning the motor 😅…
Thanks a lot for your answer
Best regards
Looks like a tired day Alex!!
Thanks for the help, gave me the confidence to tackle my ‘06 Sierra.
Thanks for the good video. My bleeder screw did most of the burping, but I used a regular funnel to burp it some more afterwards, also squeezing the upper radiator hose. I'm going to buy one of the funnels you're showing. That looks useful. I could not initially get the bleeder screw to open and got an air lock. I was going to replace my water pump after the first clean and flush. But since the bleeder screw (on the water pump) wouldn't open, I decided to drain all I could, then replace the water pump with good bleeder screw and that working bleeder burped my 5.7 hemi. Scary when air pockets cause overheat.
This helped me so much Alex thank you brother. You are a hero man.
youre the man ,thanks bro have the same car i never trust the bleeder valve, i replaced the thermostat housing 3 times in the past 5 years.
Thanks for watching brother
I just did a 2004 Dodge Neon SXT 2.0l Radiator, upper and lower hoses, thermostat and cap and the transmission cooler lines all without removing the intake manifold or sucking down the A/C like they tell you to do oh what a job that was lots of fun, but she is done and it’s like a brand new car again.
That’s great news it sounds like you are a very good tech
I’ve read that you want to pre-mix (shake) the coolant and water in a bottle before pouring back in. I’m no mechanic, so I wanted to get your take on that.
I wish I could get full strength Toyota Red Coolant gallons but I never see them offered anywhere
When I did use full strength, I would mix the distilled water and the coolant in a clean 5-gallon pail first. I then would add it to the radiator.
What bled out of the car in your video was likely pure full coolant. But if you pre-mixed out of the car, the discharge would have been half water saving half coolant.
Had high mileage car I bought, developed cooling problems in summer. Blew a lot of coolant out overheating and then it was still messed up after refilling. Turns out it had bleeder valves I didn't know about. I figured them out and got a lot of air out , then it worked better but it was hard to get air to come out.
Later I drained the system and filled with water, since it was hot summer, and drove it. Drained and refilled over next couple weeks, every other day or so.
After a couple few weeks it was all cleared out and I noticed being cleared out better I didn't even have to use the bleeder valve anymore. It got the air out by itself.
Great video brotherman....I'm having alot of trouble on 06 nissan xterra. Changed rad and stat...now overheating and temp guage fluctuating ... very frustrating. .at idle temp climbs Rev up and temp immediately drops....ugh
Great video! Thanks
You're welcome!
I just want to day thank you, just replace my radiator on a 2012 jeep and followed your instruction, went perfect. Much appreciated brother
My pleasure I’m glad I was able to help
Got this funnel and did the 2nd method with it...
Was scared of breaking the air bleed bolt in some engines since they're hard to access
I do 3 heat cool cycles in my driveway because I wanted to be sure no air is in the system 😅
Tool payed for itself after maintaining 5 cars in my family 😊
Of course, use distilled water with the coolant mixture in the system
2007 Mercedes GL450 I changed Radiator was leaking at idle air goes to cool as soon as i rev engine gets hot drove car about 5 times now still the same i ordered funnel like you have hope this helps hoping not any type of headgasket issue it does have 230000 miles!
Keep me posted thanks for watching
Guess I've been doing it wrong all along. I opened the bleeder valve and started the engine as per another video suggestion. I'll do it your way from now on. Thanks
Thanks for watching and the support
I have a 15 Chrysler 200 3.6 that overheated on me friday.. Found the water pump leaking, replaced it and the dang car is still overheating.. no leaks though. These cars are a massive pita to bleed air out of the coolant system.. may have to try this..
What about the engine block? Does it need drained as well when flushing? Been struggling finding the block drain plugs on my challenger and the ones I think are it seem like a pain. Was just going to try and take off the lower radiator hose and hope it drained it. Any advice would be appreciated, great video my man.
Hey there unfortunately auto makers put the block drain plugs in some crazy spots,I normally just pull the bottom hose like you mentioned, good luck buddy
Great video. Loved it. If you replace the thermostat, on a 2015 Suburban,, and some air gets into the upper radiator hose, will the vehicle naturally clear it out as you run the heater?
Not necessarily it will bubble and gargle and possibly run hot, it’s best to run the vehicle with the cap off while massaging the upper radiator hose like in the video
Bro I have the same light. I love it. Have not had any problems at all with it. Got it for under $30 at harbor freight. Thanks for the knowledge.
My pleasure buddy. I love harbor freight
Good video. If you put a vinyl hose on bleeder nipple the extends to the funnel or up several inches you will save some coolant and make less of a mess. Also you committed with 100% concentrate early on with a lot I. The funnel. If it would have filled before draining you would have put in no water. Think I would mix before at whatever proper % and then pour that in the funnel. Thanks
Good observation on the coolant mixing that was my car so I didn’t care lol. I have a 55 gal 50/50 that I use for customers
Thanks for watching
Thank you for sharing! Very informative and helpful! Thank you again.
My only question is, when you bleed the line with the bleed valve screw and coolant comes out, should I clean up any coolant that got over some engine parts or is it okay? Read online that if you do spill some you need to clean it up.
I flushed my coolant without the no spill funnel and it overflowed. Cleaned it up as best as I could. Do you think it’s okay?
Would love your input and feedback.
Thank you👍🏽👍🏽
Is there a difference/ benefit to using deionized water vs distilled water?
Thanks a lot makes it easier to have confidence in bleeding my cooling system.
My pleasure buddy thanks for watching
Attention to detail.. excellent job sir.
Thanks buddy
Enjoyed the education, picked up some things not covered in other videos. 👍
Thanks for watching I’m glad you enjoyed it
Thanks. U forgot to tell about CO in a closed garage. Good video.
You’re right I guess I can’t assume everybody knows thanks for watching
Blast the fan to high as well? Or fan can be set to low?
Blast it😅 once you feel that hot air, it's a good thing
Just found u and I appreciate for you showing how to do it for people on a budget
yeah man thanks, I have a 2011 Mercedes CLS550 and installed a new thermostat and I keep having to fill it with antifreeze, the pressure in the system is causing overheating, water gurgling up from the reservoir overflow, I can hear all the air gurgling in the system and overheated the engine today. Upper radiator hose blew off, ugly. So I believe there is way too much air in the system. One think I did not do was turn on the heater. Thanks for the video
Glad I was able to help
I think the 2 bleeder valves are before and after the thermostat. I'm guessing that your thermostat is between those two.
Positive uplifting technics...keep up the great content
Thanks for the feedback and the support, I will buddy
Great video. I have a 2010 infiniti g37x and i always find myself topping off coolant in radiator , and the overfill tank to max. Overtime, the overfill tank goes empty, also i can hear coolant splashing in dash on low rpms. Could this indicate a head gasket leak, or just massive air inside of the system?
Hey there buddy sorry to hear you having problems, on those G 37 engines there are small coolant hoses that tends to leak that may be the problem with yours and eventually air gets in the system causing that noise
Awesome video. If I didn’t bleed or burp my car after I changed the coolant temp sensor would that cause problems to my coolant thermostat? I think I messed up. Any advice? Thanks!
You are the truth with these cars bro. I just not long ago replace the water pump in my car. I got to replace the thermostat, then I am going to do just what you showed on this video. The car as of now does heat up a bit too much. So hopefully this works without hitch. I followed your video on the same 2.7 engine water pump replacement. Keep up the excellent work on video's like these. Actual guides that work and are correct. I will keep watching and telling others about your work. Thanks man.
Thanks for the support. I’m glad you are enjoying the videos, I really enjoy making them and teaching you good people new things.keep me posted on everything with your car
Hello friend, I am a Dodge technician here in Chile, I just received a Charger hemi 5.7, 2012, the customer indicates that he replaced the lower radiator hose because it was leaking from a clamp and he flushed the coolant, bleeding it. We check, the heater works fine at maximum speed, we will test it, we start the engine and when the water temperature exceeds 204 F, the coolant begins to rise and come out through the hose in the cover, then the fans activate at approximately 217 F until the coolant temperature reaches 194 F, this is when the coolant drops back down. The temperature needle is always in the middle and does not overheat. Additionally, when the air conditioning is turned on, the refrigerant remains stable between the minimum and maximum levels at 194 F, estimated to be because the electric fans are in constant use, but when the cabin ventilation is turned off it rises again. at 217 F along with the coolant overflowing again coming out of the tank cap hose, then the electric fan and lowers the coolant temperature again to 194 F, and lowers the coolant in the tank again, we have the following hypothesis; 1- that the mixture is not 50/50, that the cause of the problem is the coolant, it has excess distilled water, therefore it does not support the temperature 2- the problem is caused by the tank lid, which does not support the pressure
Check the radiator cap and the seal surface on the radiator itself!
@@AlexTheCarDoctor Hello friend, indeed today we proceeded to carry out different tests and we kept an old metal coolant tank cap. We tested it and after carrying out several driving cycles in the city and on the highway, the coolant works correctly, the updated black plastic cap that Mopar sells it is not very possibly it is not good.
Hi Alex, I recently changed a thermostat on my 2015 challenger sxt. Before i started the job i picked up two bottles of peak north American coolent. Its orange OAT. When i drained the radiator the fluid that came out is purple. Under further investigation i read that dodge dyes their oat coolent purple. I ended mixing the two. Please tell me im not going to cause catastrophic failure. I still might do a flush and fill with OE purple.
Thire hasn't been 1 video on you tube that can help my situation!
Terrific job. Praying this is my problem and I didn't blow out a head gasket.
Great video! May I know if I can do it without opening the bleeder valve? (I am not sure if mine has one.) As air should exit the highest point, which is the tunnel, it should still work, but it is just a matter of taking extra time?
When using this funnel, does it not overfill the coolant resevouir? There is normaly a max fill line, but surely this will fill it completly. I don't get it lol. cheers
Alex, to me it looked like you put a gallon of coolant in, and not nearly as much water? Is that gonna make a difference, in your cooling system?