Anet A8 Fan Duct Shootout
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 1 พ.ค. 2017
- It's time to see what is the noob's way of finding out which fan duct is more reliable. while this test was conducted on the Anet A8 - the design is reflected on a lot of different printers.
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Fan Ducts Used:
Semi Circular with notch: www.thingiverse.com/thing:1874390
Semi Circular: www.thingiverse.com/thing:1954001
Spriya: www.thingiverse.com/thing:2133328
Spaceship: www.thingiverse.com/thing:2088006
Circular: www.thingiverse.com/thing:2037771
Test prints:
Maker's Muse Lattice Cube Torture Test: gumroad.com/l/CMqrm
Bridge Test: www.thingiverse.com/thing:113160
Overhang Test: www.thingiverse.com/thing:699366
Marlin Skynet v2.3.9 : www.dropbox.com/s/j40vagc1drx...
Please note that upgrading to the latest skynet only worked for me after first installing v1.1
To install Skynet v2.3.9 connect the Anet via USB and switch it on, then:
1. download the zip file in the link above and extract
2. Run Arduino.exe in the Arduino Folder
3. Go to menu bar - Tools - Board and select Anet v1.0
4. Go to menu bar - Tools - Port - Select COM Port for Anet
5. Go to menu bar - File - Open - and select Marlin.ino from the Marlin Folder
6. Click on Upload (arrow facing Right)
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Really really interesting show down!!! It was surprising to see how they performed, and it's all about getting the best 'all rounder' more than the best for a certain task. Next test, bigger fan = better improvements still?
+Maker's Muse problem with these tests is that the more you do, the more ideas you start coming up with, and then there are the comments on how to enhance them :) maybe next up will be : how large can a cooling fan be before it turns from cooling to "hey where has my print gone?" Lol
One year later and the content is still mega valuable. Well done comparison. Thanks matey.
Thank you :)
I use the semi-circular fan duct and have found great results. Great to see i chose a good one :D Thanks mate!
+Dream Design Make more than welcome, happy to see my tests faired good enough to prove the point :)
Thanks for the video! Just what I needed to see. I think I'm going with the semi-circle.
+Brandon Gallacher welcome :)
Did you re-calibrate the PID when you changed nozzle?
How you can do that is mentioned in Spriya documentation. It takes some time, but then the temperature in the hot end will be more stable. Might make a difference.
Well done, thanks! I just switched to a "spaceship" like one on the MK2 some weeks ago. I'm very happy with it, since cooling even with ABS (max. 30%) is much better compared to the stock one.
+Wolfgang Schadow awesome! :)
I upgraded my fan duct to one very similar to the stock one, except it actually pointed at the end of the nozzle not above it. I had a feeling that the circular duct might not be the best since the air is moving towards the nozzle from all directions so you get an area of stagnation in the middle where the air collides. The semi-circular probably provides the best balance between airflow and cooling in different directions.
If I could I would double like for your amazing setting speach. I can't believe you remembered all those numbers. :)
+Morten Worm haha I appreciate it :) I put a lot of time in this episode :)
thank you for this video I have been wondering which one of the nozzles to go to so this is very helpful.
+Doug Leppard welcome :)
What a great video! You are certainly showcasing how well a cheap printer can do on the harder end of printing and to be fair, the A8 is coping great. Good work Joe, keep it up :)
+ZaPpaul I believe all or at least most printers can print great, given enough time, patience and tenacity :) Anet actually is turning out to be a great printer. And thank you :)
thank you so much! This was exactly what I was looking for :)
Yes, this comparison is always good.
Nice video, I was just trying to design my own fanduct with limited success, and there is very little information about performance of different fan duct designs, so this is very usefull!
glad it could help :) would have loved to do more and eventually will, but time is a bit limited right now
Great video I have a question so many people say the Anet A8 lacks stability poor frame design so what upgrades are out their to take any movement out of the frame? I have seen many upgrades but what ones are the best?
Amazing video, Joe! I just updated the fan duct on my GEEEtech Prusa i3 Pro X with the "Spriya" which works really fine with the E3D hotend! :)
+3DPrintingTips! Hehe awesome :)
with regards to the circular one that is missing a small segment, this is to make space for the wires to fit coming out of the extruder heating block.
Do you use Cura to slice? If so do you have a video on the basic settings to use and what the variations of those settings do?
You know what is weird? If you put the video settings on 1.25 speed it is actually PERFECT to watch
damn, that just means i am living my life 1.25 times slower lol - scary thing is that you are right lol. so two options , i either talk 1.25 times faster or start doing a disclaimer to speed it up 1.25 times hehe
Or post process it to 1.25 and you have that smooth flow! ;-)
i watch a lot of videos in 1.25x speed lol
0.75....... dont go there. 😖.
0.5 is pure drunk mode XD
oh wow the semi circular fan i picked was among the top thats awesome too know thank you soo verry much for this shootout.
Lonny Moore welcome :) will be doing another one shortly. Currently in the US though as I'm attending the Bay Area maker faire :)
Cool I'll be sure to keep my eyes out for it. Some day I'll get to go to a maker fair
Thank you for going to the trouble of making this comparison video; I'm sure it took a while!
haha yeah it did, around a day and a half of non stop printing, well worth it though :)
I have a spryia-like fan duct (mistral) and I noticed that print orientation affect performance. In every print I can always say wich side was the one behind because it is the worst.
How did you test them, in particular the overhang one? I'd expect better performance with the difficult side facing the front of the printer.
Awesome video!
Is there a semi circular model which considers the 4mm offset with the auto level sensor, so you can just use the sensor at it's designated location?
(I mean a 4mm "longer" fan nossle in y direction)
Keep up the good work! :)
Hey Joe, how hot your hotend can get with the spaceship duct and 100% fan speed? Mine won't go over 210*C (and only if I preheat it for the first layer to about 230*C), otherwise, with the fan at 100% speed it stays at 190*C. It seems that there's to much airflow on the nozzle, instead of the printed object bellow. I'm waiting to get my E3D V6 and try it with the silicone cover. But for now, I'm on the stock one and without any cover for it.
Did you measure the point where the air flow concentrate , fan ducts may perform differently when they are not in the right place, some fan duct like spiya requires you to put your nozzle as high as possible
You missed one test case: A print that blocks air access to its back side, e.g. something that is H-shaped---solid but thin walls in the X direction and corners to the back. With the original "front only" fan duct I got molten/blobby corners on the back side of the print.
Update: Found one models where I had this: thing:1672959 Those 2 bars going out the back were a "molten mess" in terms of surface quality ;)
+HenryLoenwind good point, will need to revisit with different test models. Although the lattice cube does need efficient cooling in all directions.
Oh, you already replied. So here again, in case you don't notice my edit: Found one models where I had this: thing:1672959 Those 2 bars going out the back were a "molten mess" in terms of surface quality ;)
Very well made comparison! The only thing I would add is to reorient the testmodels depending on the orientation of the fanduct. On my wanhao Di3 I am currently experimenting with different fanducts that are all snapon/snapoff designs. Easy to change from onesided cooling to two-sided cooling depending on the print.
+PrintingOTB agreed, I will revisit the test at some point to do a much more thorough testing :)
Maybe a 4-sided overhang test?
Keep on the good work!
Do you have a complete list somewhere of all the upgrades you did to your A8?
thank you for this video (and all of your other ones) , i've just completed my first a8 build and any suggestions about upgrades are more than welcome !
the stock nozzle cooling fan, is that also a candidate for a future upgrade ?
+helmkampchris to be honest a radial fan is always more efficient, possibly upgrade it to a better quality one :)
Excellent video! Thank you.
Cracking video. Would be interested to see these models printed with no cooling as a comparison.
+BCH Tractor Services will be including that in the next one
Hi. I saw your video with the comparison between fanducts. IT is good, and your method is pretty consistent.
I hav tested, and Im not exagerating, like a dozen of funducts, till I
got tired of seem similar results in most of them. Most fails is the
same issue: they dont distribute the air evenly, and a couple of the
funducts you tested fails in that too, like the cicular, the dutched,
etc.
This funducts produce good result most of the times, but in certain
situations, this failure in distrubuteing the air evenly, shows up. You
should include in your test, a circular overhang test. This way, when
the circular object is being printed 1 side of the object overhang will
not receive a good cooling. My test were done first looking at the air
distribution useing a radial fan of course, powering up at 50% (that is a
lot of air) and putting below a cup of water. When you aprouch the
funduct to the water, you will start seeing howmuch and from what
direction the air impacts in the water.
Also, I have to mention this: there is only 1 design that achieve a perfect air flow around the 360 degrees: www.thingiverse.com/thing:1025471
ANd the reason is pure design , looking at the interior you can see structures that distributes the air evenly.
To be sincere, I skiped testing a similar desing of your funduct,
because I asumed I was going to get similar results liek in the circular
duct. But I will give it a try now . What I like in your design is that
is small.
Hi Joe Well done
thanks don
Have you ever used Tevo taruntula ....lots of first time users including buying it and.....what do u think of it are there better sub 250$ printers ...which alowes users to focus on creative work rather then upgrading and trouble shooting right from the first print.
great video making me rethink my duct on A6 are u considering an upgrade video for your A6 like u did go A8 as so few people are covering A6 spaciffically. Thanks
+steven gold yep I have a list of things to do on the A6 which will come after the Bay Area maker faire :)
super look forward to it :-)
Very useful information! Please keep it up.
Thank you :)
The Marlin Skynet v2.3.9 dont' have the profile configuration h for anet A8.
I use Skynet v2.3.2 fix. That have.
You have the configuration h, for the new firmware that you use.?
Thanks
I can't find out how the Skynet firmwere work?! How do i heat up the bed and how do i start printing????
lol. I just switched from the semi-circular to the full circular, because the semi did not fit my fan well. Did you have fit trouble with the semi-circular?
+tubejim101 I just unscrewed the fan slightly and slid it in, the tightened again, other than that, nothing really
Great video! I'm interested in knowing which one you will be using as your fan duct!
+GA MA the semi circular one is pretty much a good all rounder for me and not too big :)
Love your reviews and videos. This might be a dumb question but still new to all this. I updated my A8 with the new Skynet firmware you mentioned in the video following your guide. I couldn't work out how to enable bed level, I assuming it's an edit somewhere as I tried looking it up but couldn't work it out.
to enable the bed levelling you need to include the G29 code in your start gcode. i have a video on installing the 1.1 firmware which explains it :)
I have 1.1 working with bed leveling but when I upgrade to this new one and do an auto home the carriage dosnt move to the middle of the bed to home the z using the sensor but stays on the left hand side. With no switch there now it just keeps going until I unplug it.
+Grant Peck does the sensor light up when it's idle and you pass a metal object under it?
Yes it lights up. I can stop the z axis by moving a screw driver in front of it. Levels fine with 1.1 too. If the carraige was over the bed when I did the home all it would probally work. Its like it thinks theres a micro switch and the sensors not installed.
using the semi circulur one, happy with it =)'
Hey Joe! Thanks for your video. Do you have a recommendation for a fan which works with the auto level sensor?
+Eggenreiter the semicircular one should work just fine :)
thanks Joe :)
Nice video, thanks! Is there a way to find the perfect fan speed for each print?
+Merlin G I guess that could be a next tutorial video :)
You didn't discuss tuning the airflow rates for the specific ducts. If the air reflects off the bed and drops the nozzle temp then artifacts may be due to low temp. One duct I used required the fan to not fully turn on until 20mm due to such a high force.
Maybe the Anet maintains better than Wanhao?
all of these were set to 100% from the second layer - once i come back from BAMF i will revisit this experiment with different parameters and possibly a couple more fan ducts :)
Hey Joe, love the new vid and got the download for new fan duct ready to print tomorrow ;) changing the subject i was wondering if you may be able to help, i have cura set to print a skirt but some smaller prints this doesnt seem to be enough to get the filament flowing as freely quick enough. From what i have read you can use gcode to get the printer to create a purge line along the bottom of the plate before starting your print, being a noobs noob i have no idea how to set this up. Any advise would be greatly appreciated as always.
+Alucard in one of my previous Anet videos I left a link for my S3D profile, which in fact has the purge line before start. Will create a Cura profile and upload a link :)
awesome thats great thank you very much, am gonna have to save up some pennies for S3D i think it seems to have more control but with simpler controls
i personally love S3D, i find it much more user friendly to be honest than Cura which is why i am having a hard time shifting from it
I'm stumbling my way around Cura with mostly success just struggling at the moment to get that first layer squidge, i have slowed the speed down to 25mm second which has help but need to find the setting to slightly over extrude on the first layer
I'd like to see the same test performed with varying filament materials to discover if fan design strategy is independent of material, and if not then which design works best for each material.
+Axe Murderer working on it :)
Hi, great video! What slicer do you use? Can you write down the parameters that you used to print them because I can't understand well english? Thanks a lot
+Alex Mazzoleni I used simplify3D. I'll come back to you with the parameters shortly :)
3D Maker Noob thank you!! I'm trying to set simplify3d but with a lot of problems, I'll wait for you :)
Congratulations on a great comparison. These tests may also be fruitful.
Try testing a dome shape about 1.5 cm in diameter with a one or two layer wall thickness 0.4 mm or 0.8 mm. and a thin walled cylinder about the same dimension 1.5 high and 1.5 diameter.
The upper layers of the dome concentrate the temperature of the plastic and will cause a hole if not properly cooled, and the far wall of the cylinder will sag and deform if not enough cooling air can reach it.
PLA is not the only plastic that needs air cooling. ABS+ is an excellent plastic but remains hot for too long, the same goes for TPU.
I suggest also that you do an air flow test by holding a smoke source such as a cigarette near the fan inlet to show how much cooling air actually comes out of each of the nozzles. This will show whether the exotic shapes such as the ring actually direct cooling air in all directions.
interesting video
can we maybe have each shrowd again but with fan profiles tuned to get the best results from each
the reason i ask is, when i switched from directional to the "donut" style i was able to turn my fan up around 20%(which improved quality on even flat walls)while with the old shroud it had to be down or it started effecting adhesion
+TheMightyevo will do it for the next fan showdown :)
Thanks for getting bk to me. and yay!
another great video joe. some tests on a bowden would be good. :)
+Turenkarn's 3D Tanks noted :) thank you
What was the minimum layer time and minimum printing speed?
Did you have any problems with overcooling the hot end?
I've tried the the stock, Spriya and Mistral 2.1, and where things worked fine with the stock nozzle, with the Spriya I couldn't reliably maintain hot end temps with the fan over 30% and with the Mistral over 20% (even though it looks to direct the airfow more toward the part and less the hot end). I ended up insulating my heater block and now with the Mistral I can maintain temps at somewhere between 50-60%. I've seen similar results reported in the comments section of thingiverse and on the a8 groups.
I do kind of wonder why most of the designs seem to direct airflow across the nozzle vs downward at the part, since you want to cool the part quickly and the hot end not at all... maybe I'll have to redesign one and try it.
+Mark Pikas if you find that you have fluctuating temperatures, it's best to do a PID tuning after each fan duct change
Yea, I have. After every cooling change, I ran a 20 cycle PID tune and honestly it didn't get much better. The best procedure I've found is to figure out about the highest setting that the fan could be set at that temps stay close and then do an at least 10cycle PID tune from there.
I'm starting to wonder if my power supply is just weak since the heating elements have always had some issue keeping up (the hot end with a good fan duct won't maintain temp at most higher speeds, the bed will never get to 70* in open air, I've tried setting it to 70 and eventually it will get to 69 and never hit 70), and I added some LED lights and they practically flash when the heating elements cycle (not just dim slightly, but go from intense bright to almost off).
I tried updating the firmware and I keep getting error compiling?
Great video!
+mikel9292 thank you
Instructive comparaison ! I subscribe !!!
Moyinski thank you :)
I had the space ship one made in PLA but when I printed in ABS with the cooling fan off and a 100C bed the PLA softened and drooped. Ruined my print about 3 hours into it lol.
+Alun Morgan ouch. Yeah pla as a fan duct is a no go. Lesson learnt I guess :)
Yeah that’s probably not a good idea... I have a PLA one but I have insulation on my heat block and only print PLA with a 50° bed
i like to think "PLA" "cooling fan off" and "printing in ABS" all together would alert me to making a good decision.
Then again, i may just be too wrapped up in my phone to ever pay 100% attention to what i'm doing.
+Alun Morgan +3DMN Well at the very least, just remove it when you're printing ABS. You won't be using it anyways!
just out of curiosity, did you adjust the PID settings for the fans? This can make a HUGE difference from duct to duct.
+Eric Johnson in this case I didn't as the temperatures were constant without any fluctuations.
Is there any advantages to upgrading to skynet over stock firmware other than being able to use the bed leveling sensor? Is there a improvement in print quality? should i upgrade the FW on my A6?
to be honest i haven't yet upgraded the firmware to my A6 so not entirely sure what difference it does there, however i saw an improvement in print quality and functionality on the A8 with the new firmware
Noob, I get not the start print menu on my Anet A8 printer , what canI do?
Dammit man! I already printed the circular one. lol. back to the drawing board
+Dj Goku haha sorry buddy :)
Where did you find out about the new Skynet firmware? It isn't on their facebook page and no Google search finds it. The link doesn't work for me due to "...partial file...." error in unloading into a file. If your instructions are complete, this firmware is so much easier than what I was trying to get the 2.3.2 file to work. Hopefully I will find another way to download. Is RAR a european thing verses Zip files?
i will have to reupload it on dropbox as something seems to have gone wrong with some users. also, found it on the Skynet facebook page facebook.com/skynet3ddevelopment/ :)
Thank you so much. I was able to get it there. Much easier for me this time. Just used the Marlin.ino file. Changed my PID numbers, Changed my extrusion rate, and Z probe offset then it worked .
And then Just ran the auto home and it crashed into my bed in the upper left corner. I guess I need to adjust a few more settings
Got it. I had to activate the safe homing definition (by removing the "//")
I will make sure to print the semicircle cooling fan.
+Jacob R you won't be disappointed :)
I bought an anet a8 Last week and tomorrow i can Build it .... so i have a question ... what are the first Upgrades to do ? ( Sry Fort my Bad english ... i still learn it)
+Zissgo look up my previous videos on upgrades for A8, I listed all the things I upgraded and did to it first :)
3D Maker Noob ok thx :) nice videos :)👍
z axis stabilization. and a better holder for your filament so it dispenses smoothly. making an enclosure is a good idea too.
+black dragon wiccan those will all come at some point, hopefully right after my US trip :)
195 seems a bit low - generally I find better layer adhesion and even faster printing at higher temps, then I most need the cooling. Perhaps ~215-225?
Awesome test overall!
+AbeFM it all depends on the filament company. I rarely go over 210 as I tend to print at relatively slower speeds but I found that with almost all printers the 3DPrintz PLA prints very well at 195 degrees and 50 mm/s. thank you by the way :)
3D Maker Noob: Indeed, I've been scaling back my own temps. But as a way to compare cooling fans, especially for increasing layer bond strength, higher temperatures could help differentiate in an otherwise tight pack. Thanks again!
+AbeFM I will be diving in further into these tests to see how they work with different filaments and also different fan speeds
You've got to make a similar one for the Prusa MK2. The original one is not the best one you can have :)
that's actually not a bad idea at all, will definitely get to it after bay area maker faire :)
Did you do PID tuning for each fan duct aswell?
+Luk R temperatures are consistent throughout all prints without and temperature drops so wasn't needed
Awesome, thank you for the quick answer.
To bad though you didn't try the Mistral 2.1 Fan Duct.
Thingiverse Thing: 2121279
+Luk R will have to revisit this test anyway, so there is still time to try it :)
I've been using thing:1205439 (V10) for ages. Would this fit the anet, too, or are the differences between it and the P802 to great in that area? I really like that the designer did air flow simulations for it...
True first :) Well, this video helps a lot as I'm currently designing a fan duct for my custom printer, this test is handy :)
+FranckR awesome, make sure to let me know once done :)
I updated my firmware after seeing in the description that you used version 2. The first print went well but now the printer wont finish homing the z axis before a print. All the wires are connected and I have not touch any of the firmware stuff other than re installing it.
+Igor Mijic hey, have you tried triggering the switch manually to see if it stop it or maybe check with a multimeter that it triggers? If it worked the first time then it should work all the time
Yeah I tried triggering it manually and it didn't do anything, it doesn't even start the z home process just changes z to a question mark on the screen, currently looking at cura start gcode to see if there's anything there
Also, it will home when I manually click on auto home in the menu
Nvm hahahah it was the start gcode, it's working perfectly fine now, thanks for getting back to me quick
+Igor Mijic and when it homes it works fine?
Are you not running any retraction?
it is a fair test for your machine. as a pc engineer I do install and replace a lot of fans, and so for nearly every new fan their is a different airflow, and yep you guess it! unless the airflow is the same for all 3D printers certain flow nozzles will perform better according to the rate of flow,
also the psu can have more of a surge to the fans depending on the build quality.
You know how chinese quality control is!
So I would say to others is to, Print of the choices/styles and see which one performs better on your 3D printer, by doing the test's that Joe has done .
Oh just to say that's why Computers have fan speed controllers, either manual or built in to the CPU & boards.
No need for bigger fans joe, just use same size but higher RPM rate = more flow
one could upgrade to separate speed controller and adjust speed/flow for type of print. like this one..
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-5-25-LCD-Fan-Speed-Controller-Panel-CPU-HD-C-F-Temp-Temperature-Sensor-PC-/142394751479
Here is a separate PSU for it
www.ebay.co.uk/p/HDD-Power-Supply-AC-12v-5v-2a-for-Hard-Drive-Molex-EU/1088185122?iid=320705061192
Total cost £16
the unit can be fixed to the top of printer either by screws or make a bracket, I know it's another plug/cable but at least it will also reduce the strain on the printers psu as well.
Is the marlin skynet firmware just the normal firmware or is it something with special features?
+Mark Pikas at the time it was skynet. Now Marlin support Anet so that's what I have installed
Hey what is the link or brand of your build surface. The black cover
+Alex Slater its standard buildtak
Great test. Thanks. However if would be fair and for good example how the difference is, to made one set of print WITHOUT any fan cooling and/or another with attached fan blowing air into printing area straight without fan duct. ;)
+magy357 yep, it's coming in the next fan duct shootout :)
Thank, looking forward! :)
Nice video, but there is a fault in the description:
"5. Go to menu bar - Tools - Programmer - Select AVRISP mkII"
You are not flashing with a programmer, so this step is unnecessary. Also as far as I know there is no Marlin.ino, but a Skynet.ino ;)
E// ok in 2.3.2 it was still named Skynet.ino
He's right ^^
+3DMaker hehe notes on step 5, but the marlin.ino is there :)
I find the original CR-10 layer fan adequate :p
what build plate are you useing?
+Maxi Malek buildtak
do a tall thin wall because too much air will warp it
you earned a subscription
+Lonny Moore thanks buddy :)
Not a problem keep up the great work
+Lonny Moore thank you :)
I have a version of the semi circular duct for the TronXY
+Michel Fernald awesome, the tronxy is pretty much identical to the Anet so it works just as well
might have tried without a fan duct
for comparison
My only thought is it depends on what calibration work was done prior.
+Jeffrey Drake nothing at all to be honest. The only calibration I have done to the printer so far was extrusion calibration
3D Maker Noob without fully calibrating the printer you are introducing extra variables. For example the retraction will affect how you perceive the parts.
the same settings were used for all models - the only thing i removed from all was the zhop and wipe movement which i usually use - but i did that for a purpose - i intentionally wanted light stringing as i wanted to see which fan duct performs the best under those variable - which worked as differences are clearly visible - same settings for all, the only difference is the fan shroud
3D Maker Noob as it happens I am looking at cooking on my custom printer. I was thinking a design like prusa's that redirects a blower. I have thought about the circular style but concerned about their ability to easily allow nozzle changes.
hehe yeah, however, with blower fan they are quite easy to take off and put back on
I'm trying to create a layer cooling with compressed air from a compressor: D in theory but concentrated: D
so long as the print remains on the heatbed lol interesting to see
:)) the first test is with a 200mm aluminium blade 220v in a box with tube :D, look at the kuka 3d print
Have you tried printing in abs?
+scout413 not on the Anet yet
still waiting for a mosfet install or bowden upgrade or computer psu upgrade plz
hey - they will come i promise - just swamped at the moment with a backlog of videos to push out :) i have a full time job so only a few hours left in the day to work on the channel, but i promise they will com e:)
y are there so few close ups of the fan ducts??
thats the point of the video...downt hide them behind green prints.
+American Pi I did close ups to show them. Ultimately it's how they print that matters not what they look right no?
Ha, just realised that the patreon logo looks like a part cooling fan
Thank you :-)
welcome :)
You also should have really printed all the test pieces without a fan duct.
+WaxingRadiance true, maybe next showdown :)
i cant find the upload file in the folder !!! help please
try downloading again now, i reuploaed the files
3D Maker Noob thank you it worked I have the files now. Very much appreciated!!
awesome :)
Hi joe.
I designed a fan...didnt do any research beforehand, just went in and made what i thought it needed. Would appreciate your opinion...
Im intending to charge for it (for which ive received a fair bit of flak)...but how do i get an stl file to you for you to assess?
such a shame there was no test without a fan at all
Would have also liked to have seen a dual Fan setup which alot of other printers have
+Ultrasonic2 I will do this again but to be honest, a lattice cube without a fanshroud is pretty much a block :)
yeah it should be bad but it will show the importance of having a fan and will make a good video and hay thats what you want lots of videos :)
+Ultrasonic2 haha true, I will be revisiting all this with more test and different shrouds when I come back from US in a couple of weeks
one thing i would say with the single sided/direction fans is that if your making something that is rather solid then the side the fan is on will be getting blocked by print .. possibly resulting in say a tower to start leaning over cos one side will receive alot of cooling while the other pretty much nothing cos the print it's self is blocking it.. therefore i would think it's important for the flow to come at the job at least from 2 side
Did not get why you changed the firmware :/
+octavio lagos its a more stable version and also improved functionality
But I does affect to the finish piece? O it is just more practical?
First!!!! Woohoo!
No fair :P
Interwebs winning comment !
3D Maker Noob
Thanks for this test! I'm really surprised that the circular duct didn't perform better. I really don't like how it obstructs the view on the nozzle, but I still used it because I thought it was the best option. Well, time for a change. :)
+DocCleaner I was surprised too, I'm guessing the additional space dissipates the air less forcefully which would make sense.
3D Maker Noob LOL
that circular fan duct looks so convincing, but it just doesnt work. :D
the v1 spaceship was my favorite pretty much since paulo relaesed it, but this is by far the best one i tried: www.thingiverse.com/thing:2110755
the flow has very little resistance, and it's as focussed as it can be. when you blow smoke through it, it comes out in a straight vortex from the center of the ring. (srsly, try it) i dont need more then 30-50% fan speed, and it shields the hot block form airflow very well.
that looks very interesting - will definitely include it in my next comparison :) thank you
Oh! Oh! I know what the fans are mad of! Pla plastic!
+Niggy _2445 hehe yep
Play the video at x1.5 speed =)
on my anet a8 im i have the same bed leveling sensor an the bracket im using keeps it away from the cooling fan an also keeps the print cooling fan in stock location .www.thingiverse.com/thing:1874774
+correctvirus awesome, thank you!
Good comparison, was going to swap my circular duct for the semi circular one after watching your comparison, came across this other one which sounds like it might be as good as the semi circle one. Anyway if you do another comparison one day it will be interesting to see how this one fairs.
www.thingiverse.com/thing:2982561
Please, do the same test to CR-10
Second!!
+TheMixEmperor and second reply :)
Hey Joe great review .... I have one been using and its almost like the one you reviewed but the angles of the tips or not even providing bit more flow top and bottom . Check it out "Mistral 2.1" Extruder Cooling Duct for the Anet A8 Printer found on #Thingiverse www.thingiverse.com/thing:2121279