ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 8 พ.ค. 2024
- In this video, I show you how to install the Bigtreetech SKR 1.3 mainboard with TMC2209 stepper drivers and sensorless homing into a DIY 3D printer, in this case my AM8. This part covers the hardware installation and all the little details you need to look for so you will be successful.
The next part, covering the Marlin 2.0 configuration for the BTT SKR 1.3 and sensorless homing is here: • Marlin 2.0 on the SKR ...
Check out my AM8 build guide here: • Anet A8 AM8 Upgrade - ...
3D PRINTED PARTS
2020/2040 Extrusion SKR V1.3 SKR V1.4 MKS Gen-L mount - www.thingiverse.com/thing:404...
SKR 1.X board mount with 120mm fan for Anet A8 and others - www.thingiverse.com/thing:382...
Anet A8 SKR 1.3 Mounting Adapter - www.thingiverse.com/thing:404...
HARDWARE AND TOOLS
🛒 Anet A8 - geni.us/aneta8
🛒 Bigtreetech SKR 1.3 mainboard - geni.us/skr13
🛒 TMC2209 Stepper Drivers - geni.us/tmc2209
🛒 12-24V capable Mosfets - geni.us/mosfet
🛒 Dual Z-Motor Adapter Cable - geni.us/dualzadapter
🛒 Cable 18 AWG - geni.us/cable18awg
🛒 Raspberry Pi 4 4GB Starter Kit - geni.us/raspi4kit
🛒 Raspberry Pi 3 Model B+ Starter Kit - geni.us/raspi3bpluskit
LINKS
Official Bigtreetech SKR 1.3 Manual - bit.ly/skr13manual
Detailed guide how to use the Anet Full Graphics Display with the SKR 1.3 - www.thingiverse.com/thing:400...
THE PRINTERS I USE: kit.co/danielcrosslink/the-3d...
MY MERCH: crosslink.io/shop
BECOME A PATRON: / crosslink
CHAT ON DISCORD: / discord
BUSINESS INQUIRIES ONLY (OR IF YOU WANT TO SEND SOMETHING) - DANIEL@CROSSLINK.IO
FOLLOW ME:
INSTAGRAM - / danielcrosslink
TWITTER - / danielcrosslink
FACEBOOK - / danielcrosslink
WEBSITE: crosslink.io
The Music I use: crosslink.io/es, AMAZING for TH-camrs!
GEAR USED
kit.co/danielcrosslink/my-vid...
Disclaimer: As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
Just wanna point out a small mistake here in the video. The swapping pair and open pair of pin 7 and pin 9 were actually reversed at
8:56. I spent a few hours figuring this out after i got a blank blue screen, before finally referring to the diagram from the guide mentioned in the video. Hope this helped someone out there. Otherwise, great and detailed walkthrough Daniel!
Thanks for the comment, I was also stuck with the blue screen. The reset pin (pin 3 in exp2 on the board) was not right either.
I'm stuck at blue screen too, I'll try switching that! Thank you!
Great video! I was thinking about upgrading my anet A8. Can't wait to see how it prints!
Yeah, this is not an Anet A8 anymore. It's far superior and should be called something else.
Just a big shout out to Cross link, after 2 years (yes its taken me this long) I now have the printer running and producing great prints. a huge part of that is the tutorial videos you produced! kudos!!
Really enjoying your videos... after ~3-years of Anet A8 ownership, you are the one that's inspiring me to "make it better." Based on your videos I have recently (finally) added Leo's front, rear and hulk braces and couldn't be happier. Might just end up doing an electronics upgrade next... shame shame I must admit I still don't even have Mosfets added.. yikes!
Keep up the great videos, I'll keep watching as a new subscriber.
Thank you!
Wow, thanks!
nice that you did the SKR Board
Great walkthrough
Looking forward to see a BL touch install
Thanks for sharing👍😀
Coming soon!
@@Crosslink3D Bed leveling using the nozzle as a probe please .
@@Human-bf7kz This is not going to work on a dual z motor setup with lead screws and a glass plate. You will most probably crack the glass and the impact speed is not high enough to detect the endstop.
@@Crosslink3D th-cam.com/video/XeYJkzrrM3Q/w-d-xo.html
@@Crosslink3D What if you used a piezo sensor that detected a very tiny deflection. These guys make a good one: www.precisionpiezo.co.uk/. There is also info on the RepRap site, and a design on Thingiverse. Looks promising....
Excellent video as usual, I recently swapped out my Anet A8's mainboard for the SKR 1.4 and 2209's, very much worth the coin.....
Very nice!
I also upgraded the PSU hotend and bed to a 24 volt system, the bed heats up like right now....heh
That's awesome. 24V really makes a difference. Really worth it even on the standard printer
Was the procedure for installing the 1.4 very similar to the 1.3? In trying to decide if the 1.4 board is worth it.
Daniel, thanks for the video! Looking forward to see your Ender 3 Pro, BLTouch v3.1 and SlientBoard v1.1.5 video! 😀
You bet!
Fantastic guide. Thank you so much for taking the time to produce it. Production value is super high and I really appreciate all the b-roll and close ups. On another note, I know this is an old video, but I hope you've burnt this t-shirt by now! PLA is not biodegradable. This idea came from filament manufacturers indulging in greenwashing, so lets not perpetuate the myth.
Another much needed video. Can't wait to see the 1.4. Are you doing the turbo?
Also will the display on an a8 plus be the same as the a8?
Yes, I am doing the SKR 1.4 turbo 😁 the display on the Anet a8 plus I don't know yet. Printer is still not unboxed but soon.
excellent tutorial !
Installed the SKR 1.4 turbo and TMC2209 drivers today (onto my Anet AM6). Man...... using these TMC2209 drivers the steppers are really, I mean really, quiet!
Great! Looking forward doing this myself soon!
Fantastic series I’m wondering if you intend to do another upgrade series on the SRT 1.4 turbo with TMC 5160
Great Video! I have to point out tho, that there was something different with the wiring of the anet LCD for me. 5V and GND were swapped, but unlike u were connecting 7(coming from LCD) to 9(on the Mainboard) I had to do it the other way around! 7 coming from the LCD is not connected to anything, as it turns out after inspecting the LCD-PCB. At least not at mine (anet a8 plus LCD)! I connected 7(LCD) to pin 9(SKR 1.3) and did the rest as u explained. Finally working after a long day of troubleshooting :-) ty alot!
Thanks for sharing!
Hi thank you! My anet a8p LCD wasn't working and I corrected the pins and it worked! Thank you
I was waiting this video !!!!!
And there it is 😀
So i have done EXACTLY everything you have done in this series. When i use the screen to move the Z axis around. it moves fine and freely, When i start a print, Both Z steppers get out of wack, One will move more then the other. then they bind up
Thank u for your good video.
I can’t understand between uart and dir(=diy?,standalone?) what is different uart and diy? Can you explain what is different.
I wonder what is type of on your video?
Daniel, (Thanks for your excellent help so far.) Can I use a V3.0 board instead of V1.3 or V1.4? I see it has 4x integrated TMC2209, so I don't need to obtain separate ones?
Thank you for this video it's great 👍
Thanks!
Hoffentlich kommt Teil 2 bald
Habe genau das gleiche Setup bei mir stehen mit BLTOUCH und Hemera
Friday 29th of May 2020 ;-)
Daniel, what are the benefits of changing the A8 Main board, I am thinking about change it but I am not sure if it is better to focus on some other modification rather than the Main board, I have changed the frame to Aluminium, add a bed leveling system and also attached a raspberry pi with octoprint installed... I would like to have better quality at my prints, thanks in advance
For the display cable you could probably just reverse it at the other end by pulling the plastic guide off and reversing it.
I'd probably also do the pin modifications on the display end but that's just my preference. I get why people wouldn't want to do that.
You can try but it very likely you will break the plastic noses off that plug
Hi Daniel, great video as obvious, but i have question. How is your print experience after months of print?! Because i finally switched my Anet from CoreXY to the AM8 frame with Skr1.3 amd Tmc2130 SPI, but i have massive layer shifting on the Y axis.. I checked the belt tension, which is OK, added active fan cooling for stepper drivers, set the correct Vref with tmc calculator, the mA current too, but nothing helps.. XZ axis are ok, but Y is shifting. Then I swapped back the Anet board, only for be sure, that there is no problem with motor or belts, and anet board print is without shifting, all ok.. So i think it's bad driver on axis Y, motor overheating because with tmc are really hot, or something bad with speed in marlin configuration. Some suggestions?!
Excellent video. Your A8 is really tricked out! It may be nice to sense-stop both Z-axis motors for leveling. Perhaps the SKR 1.3 more easily interfaces with other I/O hardware ... a touch-screen? There is little evidence left this was ever an Anet A8.
Yes, that's also coming. I need to find a better name for this printer.
Would you still recommend this board now? I have an a8 and I fried the main board after having it for several years. There's a lot of options out there.
Hello, first if all great work on the video, nicely explained and easy to understand instructions. I have Ender 3 and i'm trying to upgrade to skr 1.3 and tft35 with tmc2209 drivers, i got drivers and screen to work ok, but i get maximum temperature readings from bed and hot end on boot, i have 2 boards, and they both behave the same, do you (or anybody else reading this comment) have working bin file from your ender 3 build (never mind other settings) with temperatures reading correctly so i can test is my board defective? I have tried changing termistor values in marlin, no change, i allwas get readings of 300-700c on both, hot end and hot bed. Melzi board works fine. Thank you.
Great vid
Thanks!
Hi very good tutorial, i think it's time to upgrade my ramps, where can I get the parallel connection adapter? can I run the main board with 12v? I am only using 24v only for heated bed but I don't want to change the hotend and fans to 24v
I've put a link in the description for the adapter, thanks for asking! the mainboard can run on 12v-24v, so you should be fine.
So I just got a used A8 and am having thermal overrun errors. I just replaced the hot end, but everything else on the device is original. Would upgrading the board, be it this one or the V 1.7 Anet board end that error?
I have attempted this build and I will defently say that it is my fault that the SKR keeps on burning the LV5 pin. I have bought 3xSKR 1.3's and have gotten it to work but still don't understand why the LV5 pin gets taken out when I switch the power on. I'm now on my 4th SKR 1.3 and don't want to try it agian untill I know why it keeps on burning. I need help.
Can you please make a video on converting am8 to turbo 1.4 with 2209 drivers. I have one coming in a few weeks!!
Will this board work with the CR-10s printer...If not what btt board will
How to connect those mosfets to main board? you didn't show it there, so My bed and printer are not hrating up at all
hello, why did you add a RASBERY card with the SKR? , the SKR motherboard can work alone without it.
I guess it's because of the options you added, but are they really necessary?
I just added it to use Octoprint for remote control and network connection
Hi Daniel I found something strange on my SKR mini E3 1.2 Board My heatbed did not heat at all when the Thermistorcable is on THB connector when i change to THO it works and heat up but then the Nozzle did not work could you please tell what is wrong this is from the SKR Boards the 4th one and i always meant the Board is faulty but it seams to be something different could youhelp in this case.
Hi Daniel I do not know what is wrong with Amazon I ordered another Mainboard (SKR V 1.3) because the previos Boards where faulty know I installed it and everything works fine only the Heatbed connection seems again to fail what should i do please help can you buy one for me test it and send to me then i can be shure that it work ?
Thanks for video Daniel! Looks like the link takes you to a sold out link. Any other place to look?
Let me check
@@Crosslink3D thanks for the board BTW.
I've updated the links now. But I had to split it into two seperate links. One for the mainboard, one for the drivers.
Hey Crosslink - started this mod some time ago but life got in the way, now looking for the the stl file links but they are all error 404!! can you help? PS loving the content!
Can you do the 1.4??!!! I bought it for the same printer
Hey,I have a MKS Robin E3,can I use it with stock Anet A8 display?Does anyone know?
why did you choose a parallel splitter and not a series splitter?
There is no series splitter
Hi Daniel Would it be possible to write for me a Firmware exact like you do for your Mainboard, for me because it is a bit heavy I tried but when it come to save the firmware I am stuck I followed step by step your video but it does not work for me
Since this seems to get more complicated and not less over time, I am working on a cloud based firmware build service that makes this all easier. I will talk about it on the channel as soon as I get something done that works good enough.
Why not MKS SGEN_L?
Hi Daniel I am very frustrated with Bigtreetech I bought the SKR 1.4 turbo no chance to get the Board working then i bought the SKR 1.3 with the BIQU DIRECT TFT35 V3.0 Touch Screen now the Touch screen did not work after i get the normal touch screen without the knob the screen works, now the board have trouble the Bed heating does not work (Bed in Order I tried it on other printer)when i change the Heater cable to Exdruder connect it heat up but the Extruder does not heat you see I am very angry about Bigtree tech I do not know what I can do anymore i am so far to trow the printer in the trash can
That sounds horrible! What firmware did you try?
@@Crosslink3D Marlin
Is there a reason why I shouldn't get the 1.4 turbo over this one?
My guess is that the printer will work 100% the same not better or worse. I will see it and compare them once I have the 1.4 in my hands.
you change the frames and motors and nozzle and motherboard and fans and sensors and power supply...and you stil call it anet A8? i think its A danial homemade printer more than other brand (y) Cool Danial :)
We definitely need to come up with a new name for this printer!
@@Crosslink3D Danistein printer as frankstein hhhh
is this the same as sk 1.4
Mostly identical, all the ports are labeled, so you should be fine with the 1.4 as well. Only difference is in the jumper settings. But there is good documentation on the Bigtreetech GitHub about that.
Good modification, but the Mosfets are too much.
They might not be essential, but I already had them, so up to you.
I know this video is old but I have to complain about the Z driver's heat sink being rotated 90° compared to the others 🤢🤮
Good tutorial.
You can set the hotend cooling fan to turn on only when reaching +50 degrees, it’s easy and a good mod:
th-cam.com/video/GNGN2iSQ5j4/w-d-xo.html
Great suggestion, thanks!
Hi Daniel, You seem to be the go to guy for anything Anet A8. When you do the SKR 1.4, would it be too much to ask that you do the SKR 1.4 Turbo with TMC2208 V3.0 stepper drivers in UART mode with the BTT 3.5 V3.0 touch screen, a BL Touch and the e3D Hemera hotend using Marlin 2.x or whatever the latest version is? Oh yeah, the code as well using Atom. I'm really need help with this setup so much. I know this is asking a lot, but if you don't ask, nothing will ever happen, right? Thanks for your time.