Ivan. I appreciate you teaching us rookies. Following your diagnosis process. I diagnosed a similar fuel pump issue with a 2017 F150 for my friend. He took it to a local parts for a diagnosis and was told, replace the fuel pressure sensor. Replaced and still the same issue. Since he didn't have a scanner he has to rely on parts stores., since it's free. He came to my shade tree service and I went further. After replacing the fuel pump. Truck runs great.
IVAN is teaching! And, more importantly, he both shows and repeats (common themes over different vids). He shows basic diagnostic strategies... not brain surgery but STILL highly DISCIPLINED. My recent self revelation is that car repair is two parts: (-1-) structured diagnosis/repair, (-2-) frustration abatement. EQUAL PARTS? That 2nd part is compounded by the shop management's pressure to contain time/price. The DIY'er, however, needs his/her car. Last time I traded in a car on new I decided it more prudent to just keep the trade as backup.. (NAPA, and others, do deliver.)
I think that in addition to the key shape in the Mini that tone generator for the warnings is just sooooo entertaining. While you were explaining the issue with the Mini I could hear it in the background. As for the Chevrolet truck, we had an issue many years ago that was similar. 1983 Ford Country Squire wagon had a bad miss at wide open throttle. We tried everything to diagnose the issue to no avail. 1983 was the first year for Central Fuel Injection on full-sized Fords; an electric fuel pump was in the tank. We dropped the tank and pulled the fuel pump out. Submerged the fuel pump in water and discovered a rubber hose between the pump and the connection to the fuel line inside the tank had split and fuel was spraying out the crack in the hose. We repaired the hose and the car ran fine after that. It sounds like you had diagnosed that on the Chevrolet. GREAT VIDEO!
Another super great video ! Thanks !! It’s very kind of you to allow us to glean from your competency / knowledge . Please keep ‘em coming and teach us every single aspect of this trade .
Hello Mr Ivan . I love it . See green crustis. Not parts required. Place your vets now . Please keep posting I always want more of it . I want to learn more from the best .
Another great episode Ivan! I learn something new every video you post! These diagnostic videos are so interesting to watch with a pro like you tracking down the problem! Great job as usual!😀👍
I know that in my Holden VY SS Commodore I had to investigate a hard starting condition & the fuel pressure was dropping off straight after the fuel pump prime signal switched off the fuel pump relay after I turned the ignition switch to the on position. The in tank fuel pump & sender unit has one of those PR217 type of GM fuel pressure regulators which I fitted & I ran the fuel pump & sender unit in a bucket of fuel to find out that the diaphragm had ruptured & it was spitting fuel out through the where the vacuum hose would normally connect to on an externally mounted fuel pressure regulator setup. The fix was to replace the fuel pressure regulator,as simple as that !
Two very objective (and quick) diagnostics, Ivan! The pintle hump is extremely informative, but a scope is mandatory! Alternative: blindly throw an injector at it and pray 🙂 (mini parts canon).
Scope for the win on the Mini. Sometimes a quick bypass test like the Chevy proves everything. I thought the F.P.Module would be bulged out like we see with SMA. Not this time. Good videos Ivan.
Ivan, run, dont walk, away from that mini. I recall the one Eric O was working on. There is no keyway on the harmonic balancer to line up the crank with the cams. It is only held on place by torquing the crank nut to a gazillion ft. Lbs, plus 90 degrees. The Germans are nuts. They are a lot of fun, right up until they break.
Good diagnosis on the injectior. An alternative way would have been the use of an injector pulse tester and a fuel pressure gauge. Pulse test to see the pressure drop on each injector after priming would have shown the problem.
I've seen a number of these modern FDM's that have a fuel pressure regulator inside it. It's rare but they sometimes fail. And other times, it's the pump motor no longer has enough power to get the fuel pressure up to spec. That's usually caused when you run the tank dry a few times and the pump motor overheats. I always tell my customers that had a fuel pump replaced to try to retrain your thought that 1/4 of a tank is the new empty. I commonly get told how they can't afford to keep the tank filled like that. My rebuttal is, it's far cheaper to keep a little more fuel in the tank then to pay someone like me to replace your fuel pump.
But fuel pump modules are constantly being filled with fuel up to the brim, even if you have a couple liters inside… doesn’t matter if it’s low or not…
@@zoneb609 The fuel in the tank works as a coolant for the fuel pump. But that coolant is gone when the operator runs the vehicle completely out of fuel.
Dropping the tank is way harder than lifting the bed with an engine crane. Super lazy version is to cut a hole in the bed to access the pump hat then patch it after.
I recently had something similar happen with a fuel pump on a 92 Cavalier. Car quit going down the road. Crank, no start. You could hear the fuel pump prime when turning on the key but it sounded like fuel was hitting the side of the tank. I hooked up a fuel pressure gauge and had no pressure. I dropped the tank and pulled the pump and was expecting a hose to be off or something but could not see anything wrong with the pump. I installed a new pump and it fixed the problem.
Yup, I was losing fuel pressure inside the tank. Before I bought the car someone changed only the pump and didn't connect it to the fuel line properly. It was spraying inside the tank. My neighbor replaced the assembly for me and misfires were gone! My car runs great!
One other thing I'd check before dropping the tank, close off the return pressure fuel line and see if the pressure goes up. If it has one. Some use a PWM pump to regulate pressure and some have a regulator.
No return on this one. A fuel return would increase hot fuel in the tank which would lead to more vapor pressure. More vapor pressure = more emissions.
@@charliemagoo7943 I knew they'd changed over, just wasn't sure when. The first Direct Injection systems had the return and then went to the returnless system.
An easier option would be to check voltage at the fuel pump output wires. If at 100% duty, the pump is getting 12V and a good ground under load, then you can bypass the rest of your checks and just replace the pump. Maybe there is a regulator at the pump (obviously set higher than 61 psi or whatever), but it has failed and is dumping pressure back to the tank way too soon. This could also cause the fuel pressure to drop to zero immediately on key off.
Even easier option. Amp clamp around power or ground feed to pump. At the 8 amps measured, we have good power, ground, and the pump is trying to produce without success. Donzee!
But the Module is accessible without disassembly. The power wire for the pump is in the loom and partly obstructed by the tank. Additionally the module is often at fault, so pulling off the connector like Ivan did is a pretty sane choice.
They do not make fuel pumps like they used to.Can you remember when the fuel pump ran off the crank or the cam ? they hardly ever stopped working.Cheers Ivan.
I only remember when they ran off an eccentric on the cam, never on the crank, as far as I know. I DO remember when you could buy a rebuild kit for the cam driven fuel pumps which consisted of two check valves, a new diaphragm, and a new pump to block gasket. Back then, we rarely threw anything away. Nowadays whenever I go to the local landfill, I can't believe what I see. Mountains of appliances, furnaces, AC Condensers that look nearly new, and then I hear the greenies saying how they are saving the planet. I was born in the dark, but not last night.
Car lot once brought me a Mini. Only code was Mass Air flow Performance. The cuse was it needed a timing chain. Codes and part numbers are 2 different things
Ivan , i have a case of "Green Crusties" on my car - i've been looking thru your videos of any case of water damage/"Green Crusties" - what is the spray you use to eliminate the green ?
Ivan, you should start a school for dealer techs to teach them proper diagnostics so that fewer people get the parts cannon fired at their broken vehicles, costing them to much money and time.
Could you use a scan tool or injector activation tool with a fuel gauge hooked up to diagnose the Mini? I know your way is faster but just thinking what I used to do back in the day to figure out a clogged injector problem.
HAH! When I first read the title when I clicked on the video I thought that a car had a mini misfire and I was trying to wrap my head around what a mini misfire would be. THanks for the content!
Hey Ivan I am having so problems with my Suzuki xl7 it is a 2007 and I can’t get both my snap on modus or my topdon top scan pro to do a crankshaft variation relearn can you recommend a scan tool that I not that expensive
Could using the power probe 4 with its fuel injector test feature work on this ? If you or anyone are familiar with it or scope only would’ve been the way to find this stuck injector ?
the truck has fuel pump, filter and regulator all in the module at bottom and there's three nylon flex tubes, plus o-rings connecting pump, filter, regulator and up to the tank plate outlet. could be any of them broken in there, but probably plastic fantastic regulator peeing all over or tubing rubbed out.
The circuit (12V from source) is connected to the test point (the injector). It’s like water connected to a spigot (giving pressure) in a 25 foot long garden hose with a sealed plug in the other end . Both are potential just waiting for the circuit to be given a critical condition (ground path complete) to permit work .
Hey Mr. Pine Hollow auto diagnostic I have a 2001 Nissan maxima 3.0 L I got PO 505 idle control valve put a new one in but it still have the PO 505. Can you please help me?
Hey Ivan here in SE Kentucky at least 50% of all Gm vehicles have a headlight out. I am being generous it probably is 60%. I suggest you check the Headlights on every GM just to see if that problem exists outside of Kentucky. If it is true I would be curious is it just a bulb problem or the wiring. Thanks
I've replaced 3 low, and 2 highs over the years on lacrosse. Of course the extra low was passenger side in front of the battery for extra work. Last set of bulbs were long life, about 6 years ago now. Nothing strange about pigtail connectors. Just south of SW side of KY.
@@robertsmith2956 People here are extremely frugal {cheap} that is probably a big part of it, but it is way worse with GM vehicles. I rarely see a Ford or Honda with a light out but do see a Toyota and Chrysler every now and then.
@@hcox1111 The headlight of my RX7 blew as I drove it off the lot after buying it. LOL Had to replace both, it wasn't a halogen. Hate these plastic junk, never have to buff my glass bulbs, they never opaque.
No need for a scope on that injector to tell you it's not working. If you send power through an injector and it doesn't click, then the injector is bad and needs replacing. That's basically a "bench test" of the injector and it failed. It doesn't get any more basic than that and provides more than enough evidence for a "definitive" diagnosis. It's how we did it before the invention of the scope. Good job on both regardless.
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics That it does. However, the bench test proves that the injector was bad, beyond all doubt whatsoever and needs to be replaced. If it fails this test, it will fail all other tests, including the scope, and thus, the scope was not needed for this job. I hope you didn't charge the customer for that unnecessary test. If the injector had passed the bench test, then, and only then, would you need to scope it to see if the driver was working. 😥
With the Mini I'm wondering why you or the previous mechanic didn't just swap the #3 injector with a different cylinder and see if the misfire followed it?
TWO o-rings required...... LOL I HATE injector connectors. Though the harbour freight pick tool worked nice for the last one I tool off a few weeks ago. '07 had metal fuel rail, '09 went to plastic. Finally found a difference in the engine. 😒
@@nicetna2010 Mine is on steroids. The tank pressure sensor says I am at 3500psi. Can't wait to get it up on stands and hook scope to sensor, and pump. Trips an evap code every ~600 miles. Will be my first alldata sub. The temp control motors are not working, so need to fix them as well. Found out the hard way on a 600 mile trip in early febuary. brrrrrrr..... Live data shows voltage signal changing, so looks like the motors are dead. Should have the suzuki done this week, then I can put it up on stands. Can't wait to try out alldata, and the new pico. Got a start stall dodge that will give it, and my test lights a workout. 30 year old wires under the hood.
I'm serious in requesting feedback from auto component DESIGNERS. Specifically, electronic designers. When writing your design criteria do you include that this component: "shall not be damaged by any electrical connection being shorted to either B+ or GND?" Obviously the component won't function properly but will, by design, resume correct operation once short is repaired. Shorting +12V must activate proper fusing.
Toyota uses both on the same engine. MPI for the low load regime, GDI at the high end. That strategy prevents GDI problems at low end and increases efficiency at high end. IMO, reliability should be what drives automotive technology and government mandates should go to hell.
If you need the likes and subscribes, you might want to consider final comments and the “like and subscribe” comment at the end of each video to cue the viewer to act.
Not sure you needed to go to the scope to be definitive on that fuel injector. When it didn't click with the test light, I think you could have called it there.
Given that the first (known-good) injector clicked only once, I can fully understand the need to double-check. Do these injectors not have a return spring, maybe? Maybe they rely on fuel pressure to close?
Still could be the driver since he only got the one click on other injector. Could ALSO be both, injector stuck, and driver failure since he wasn't detecting a pulse. Maybe a Noid light would show the pulse better. Thought you would see the injector opening as well. guess that is the current ramp for it.
They should colour these cars blue like Recycle bins... These things are absolute trash ready for the Auto-Recycler almost right after you buy them. EURO-TRASH to the max!
Nice “two for one” Ivan!
Ivan.
I appreciate you teaching us rookies.
Following your diagnosis process.
I diagnosed a similar fuel pump issue with a 2017 F150 for my friend.
He took it to a local parts for a diagnosis and was told, replace the fuel pressure sensor.
Replaced and still the same issue.
Since he didn't have a scanner he has to rely on parts stores., since it's free.
He came to my shade tree service and I went further. After replacing the fuel pump. Truck runs great.
Excellent diagnoses, Ivan. You are helping keep vehicles on the road and out of the crusher!
IVAN is teaching! And, more importantly, he both shows and repeats (common themes over different vids). He shows basic diagnostic strategies... not brain surgery but STILL highly DISCIPLINED.
My recent self revelation is that car repair is two parts: (-1-) structured diagnosis/repair, (-2-) frustration abatement. EQUAL PARTS?
That 2nd part is compounded by the shop management's pressure to contain time/price. The DIY'er, however, needs his/her car. Last time I traded in a car on new I decided it more prudent to just keep the trade as backup.. (NAPA, and others, do deliver.)
I think that in addition to the key shape in the Mini that tone generator for the warnings is just sooooo entertaining. While you were explaining the issue with the Mini I could hear it in the background. As for the Chevrolet truck, we had an issue many years ago that was similar. 1983 Ford Country Squire wagon had a bad miss at wide open throttle. We tried everything to diagnose the issue to no avail. 1983 was the first year for Central Fuel Injection on full-sized Fords; an electric fuel pump was in the tank. We dropped the tank and pulled the fuel pump out. Submerged the fuel pump in water and discovered a rubber hose between the pump and the connection to the fuel line inside the tank had split and fuel was spraying out the crack in the hose. We repaired the hose and the car ran fine after that. It sounds like you had diagnosed that on the Chevrolet. GREAT VIDEO!
Another super great video ! Thanks !! It’s very kind of you to allow us to glean from your competency / knowledge . Please keep ‘em coming and teach us every single aspect of this trade .
Morning Ivan and PHAA family
Nice video Ivan. Field trip on the job diag!!! Nice results! Awesome video Ivan
Hello Mr Ivan .
I love it .
See green crustis.
Not parts required.
Place your vets now .
Please keep posting I always want more of it .
I want to learn more from the best .
Another great episode Ivan! I learn something new every video you post! These diagnostic videos are so interesting to watch with a pro like you tracking down the problem! Great job as usual!😀👍
I know that in my Holden VY SS Commodore I had to investigate a hard starting condition & the fuel pressure was dropping off straight after the fuel pump prime signal switched off the fuel pump relay after I turned the ignition switch to the on position.
The in tank fuel pump & sender unit has one of those PR217 type of GM fuel pressure regulators which I fitted & I ran the fuel pump & sender unit in a bucket of fuel to find out that the diaphragm had ruptured & it was spitting fuel out through the where the vacuum hose would normally connect to on an externally mounted fuel pressure regulator setup.
The fix was to replace the fuel pressure regulator,as simple as that !
Two very objective (and quick) diagnostics, Ivan! The pintle hump is extremely informative, but a scope is mandatory! Alternative: blindly throw an injector at it and pray 🙂 (mini parts canon).
don't go blind !!! swap injector around with good cylinder . gives you a double test/check.
@@baldricksimson Yep, but not always easy.
Scope for the win on the Mini. Sometimes a quick bypass test like the Chevy proves everything. I thought the F.P.Module would be bulged out like we see with SMA. Not this time.
Good videos Ivan.
Can also swap working and non working injectors to determine injector is at fault.
Ivan, run, dont walk, away from that mini. I recall the one Eric O was working on. There is no keyway on the harmonic balancer to line up the crank with the cams. It is only held on place by torquing the crank nut to a gazillion ft. Lbs, plus 90 degrees. The Germans are nuts. They are a lot of fun, right up until they break.
Ford 4cyl uses a similar system. Friction holds timing
@FCSlim I think it is insane, but thanks for the warning!
@@JamesAgans its been used that way since the late 90s i believe
Good diagnosis on the injectior. An alternative way would have been the use of an injector pulse tester and a fuel pressure gauge. Pulse test to see the pressure drop on each injector after priming would have shown the problem.
Pretty hard to beat occasional road trip quickies. 👍👍🇺🇸
a "two-fer"!
I've seen a number of these modern FDM's that have a fuel pressure regulator inside it. It's rare but they sometimes fail. And other times, it's the pump motor no longer has enough power to get the fuel pressure up to spec. That's usually caused when you run the tank dry a few times and the pump motor overheats. I always tell my customers that had a fuel pump replaced to try to retrain your thought that 1/4 of a tank is the new empty. I commonly get told how they can't afford to keep the tank filled like that. My rebuttal is, it's far cheaper to keep a little more fuel in the tank then to pay someone like me to replace your fuel pump.
But fuel pump modules are constantly being filled with fuel up to the brim, even if you have a couple liters inside… doesn’t matter if it’s low or not…
@@zoneb609 The fuel in the tank works as a coolant for the fuel pump. But that coolant is gone when the operator runs the vehicle completely out of fuel.
Thanks for the scoop on the scope! Enjoy all your videos.
Dropping the tank is way harder than lifting the bed with an engine crane. Super lazy version is to cut a hole in the bed to access the pump hat then patch it after.
I recently had something similar happen with a fuel pump on a 92 Cavalier. Car quit going down the road. Crank, no start. You could hear the fuel pump prime when turning on the key but it sounded like fuel was hitting the side of the tank. I hooked up a fuel pressure gauge and had no pressure.
I dropped the tank and pulled the pump and was expecting a hose to be off or something but could not see anything wrong with the pump. I installed a new pump and it fixed the problem.
Thanks Ivan , good pico diagnose
You the man...can't wait for the 4th of July special!!!!
already lining up red white and blue cars I hope.....
7:48 I can't help thinking that "Pintle Hump" would make a great name for a band...
Pintle Hump & The Fuel Pump Hiss. Think I have them on a 78. 😀
@@robertsmith2956 Be careful with that; that 78 is likely made of shellac and is easily broken.
@@lvsqcsl When I was a kid we had a tea chest full of 78s we used them as targets with a slug gun & frisbees I now wonder how much money we wasted.
Ivan, I hope you remembered to tell the customer to buy an oem injector👍👍
and a connector. If he did that good a job on timing chain, the injector connector is doomed when he removes it.
Would you be able to see the injector pluses better with an LED test light ?
Quick and precise
I bet one problem with that in tank pump is a defective check valve and that's why the pressure bleeds off when shutting off.
Thanks Ivan, another excellent video.
The day is starting good with more learning
Yup, I was losing fuel pressure inside the tank. Before I bought the car someone changed only the pump and didn't connect it to the fuel line properly. It was spraying inside the tank. My neighbor replaced the assembly for me and misfires were gone! My car runs great!
Thanks Ivan!
That's awesome fantastic quick diag!!
One other thing I'd check before dropping the tank, close off the return pressure fuel line and see if the pressure goes up. If it has one. Some use a PWM pump to regulate pressure and some have a regulator.
No return on this one. A fuel return would increase hot fuel in the tank which would lead to more vapor pressure. More vapor pressure = more emissions.
@@charliemagoo7943 I knew they'd changed over, just wasn't sure when. The first Direct Injection systems had the return and then went to the returnless system.
Nice and short ! …… for a change 😊
An easier option would be to check voltage at the fuel pump output wires. If at 100% duty, the pump is getting 12V and a good ground under load, then you can bypass the rest of your checks and just replace the pump. Maybe there is a regulator at the pump (obviously set higher than 61 psi or whatever), but it has failed and is dumping pressure back to the tank way too soon. This could also cause the fuel pressure to drop to zero immediately on key off.
Even easier option. Amp clamp around power or ground feed to pump. At the 8 amps measured, we have good power, ground, and the pump is trying to produce without success. Donzee!
But the Module is accessible without disassembly. The power wire for the pump is in the loom and partly obstructed by the tank. Additionally the module is often at fault, so pulling off the connector like Ivan did is a pretty sane choice.
@@tschuuuls486 Agreed. Plus he didn't need to poke wires.
Double diag jackpot today!
They do not make fuel pumps like they used to.Can you remember when the fuel pump ran off the crank or the cam ? they hardly ever stopped working.Cheers Ivan.
I only remember when they ran off an eccentric on the cam, never on the crank, as far as I know. I DO remember when you could buy a rebuild kit for the cam driven fuel pumps which consisted of two check valves, a new diaphragm, and a new pump to block gasket. Back then, we rarely threw anything away. Nowadays whenever I go to the local landfill, I can't believe what I see. Mountains of appliances, furnaces, AC Condensers that look nearly new, and then I hear the greenies saying how they are saving the planet. I was born in the dark, but not last night.
Car lot once brought me a Mini. Only code was Mass Air flow Performance. The cuse was it needed a timing chain. Codes and part numbers are 2 different things
That's the difference between a diagnosis and firing the parts cannon. Did the mini already have a new MAF fitted?
@@ferrumignis Im not sure. I think another shop looked at it and said they couldnt figure it out.
If it runs on 3 cylinders that's great. BMW/Mini always thought it was a spare that's why the new engines only have 3
I was curious on the stuck Mini injector. Can't those be repaired? Or perhaps run in a ultra-sound cleaner bath to possibly free it?
Ivan , i have a case of "Green Crusties" on my car - i've been looking thru your videos of any case of water damage/"Green Crusties" - what is the spray you use to eliminate the green ?
Ivan, you should start a school for dealer techs to teach them proper diagnostics so that fewer people get the parts cannon fired at their broken vehicles, costing them to much money and time.
The problem is that we have to work the flow chart if you don't follow the chart you will looking for a job
Nice work when is the next scanner tool review for the Amazon sale
Fantastic!
Could you use a scan tool or injector activation tool with a fuel gauge hooked up to diagnose the Mini? I know your way is faster but just thinking what I used to do back in the day to figure out a clogged injector problem.
Disappointed Ivan 😩😥. I was so hoping for a 3 or 4 parter 🤣. I was getting use to those.
You know, Make Some fresh Tea, Popcorn, plop the feet up.
How hard would it really be to mount modules out of the elements?
Nice diagnosis. It's curious that both you and Eric O. are doing fuel pump repairs on a GM truck at the same time.
Ivan, I'm impressed with how fast you come up with an initial diagnostic plan. Do you visualize the system you are about to investigate?
HAH! When I first read the title when I clicked on the video I thought that a car had a mini misfire and I was trying to wrap my head around what a mini misfire would be. THanks for the content!
Fuel pump - pressure regulator spring/ball goofed, maybe spring broken or dissolved.
Hey Ivan I am having so problems with my Suzuki xl7 it is a 2007 and I can’t get both my snap on modus or my topdon top scan pro to do a crankshaft variation relearn can you recommend a scan tool that I not that expensive
Could using the power probe 4 with its fuel injector test feature work on this ? If you or anyone are familiar with it or scope only would’ve been the way to find this stuck injector ?
the truck has fuel pump, filter and regulator all in the module at bottom and there's three nylon flex tubes, plus o-rings connecting pump, filter, regulator and up to the tank plate outlet.
could be any of them broken in there, but probably plastic fantastic regulator peeing all over or tubing rubbed out.
Concerning the injector scope test.....why did the scope show 12v before starting if the injector was not being fired (and grounded) yet?
The circuit (12V from source) is connected to the test point (the injector). It’s like water connected to a spigot (giving pressure) in a 25 foot long garden hose with a sealed plug in the other end . Both are potential just waiting for the circuit to be given a critical condition (ground path complete) to permit work .
@@ThunderbirdRocket Thanks for the reply, but I still don't get where the path to ground was coming from BEFORE the engine was started.
Hey Mr. Pine Hollow auto diagnostic I have a 2001 Nissan maxima 3.0 L I got PO 505 idle control valve put a new one in but it still have the PO 505. Can you please help me?
OEM crown vic pump has a pressure release, i dont see that on this pump though. ah well. 2017? little early for pump to go bad...
Someone has to be the first to find the factory defect.
Hey Ivan here in SE Kentucky at least 50% of all Gm vehicles have a headlight out. I am being generous it probably is 60%. I suggest you check the Headlights on every GM just to see if that problem exists outside of Kentucky. If it is true I would be curious is it just a bulb problem or the wiring. Thanks
I've replaced 3 low, and 2 highs over the years on lacrosse. Of course the extra low was passenger side in front of the battery for extra work. Last set of bulbs were long life, about 6 years ago now.
Nothing strange about pigtail connectors. Just south of SW side of KY.
@@robertsmith2956 People here are extremely frugal {cheap} that is probably a big part of it, but it is way worse with GM vehicles. I rarely see a Ford or Honda with a light out but do see a Toyota and Chrysler every now and then.
@@hcox1111 The headlight of my RX7 blew as I drove it off the lot after buying it. LOL
Had to replace both, it wasn't a halogen.
Hate these plastic junk, never have to buff my glass bulbs, they never opaque.
@@hcox1111 or the state mandates it.
You can't fix your car till after it is inspected so you can then spend the money to pass inspection.
@@robertsmith2956 No inspections in Kentucky
A Mini running on 3, that's 3 more than it deserves.
if you swapped coils why didn't the misfire move?
Did you even watch the full video ? #3 injector was dead, coils were all fine.
That sounds like it's split holes to me the noise it's making
I dread the day that I have to replace the high pressure pump on my Silverado. Rube Goldberg engineering.
The lifetime is mostly governed by fuel quality. Neighbor has a C Class Diesel with 450k km on the clock. Og Fuel Pump and HP Pump.
No need for a scope on that injector to tell you it's not working. If you send power through an injector and it doesn't click, then the injector is bad and needs replacing. That's basically a "bench test" of the injector and it failed. It doesn't get any more basic than that and provides more than enough evidence for a "definitive" diagnosis. It's how we did it before the invention of the scope.
Good job on both regardless.
Scope also checks the computer driver 😉
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics That it does. However, the bench test proves that the injector was bad, beyond all doubt whatsoever and needs to be replaced. If it fails this test, it will fail all other tests, including the scope, and thus, the scope was not needed for this job.
I hope you didn't charge the customer for that unnecessary test. If the injector had passed the bench test, then, and only then, would you need to scope it to see if the driver was working. 😥
With the Mini I'm wondering why you or the previous mechanic didn't just swap the #3 injector with a different cylinder and see if the misfire followed it?
TWO o-rings required...... LOL
I HATE injector connectors. Though the harbour freight pick tool worked nice for the last one I tool off a few weeks ago. '07 had metal fuel rail, '09 went to plastic. Finally found a difference in the engine. 😒
I have the same engine in my peugeot 308, the injector is dead, it opens on start up and closes
A BMW N14 engine in a Peugeot? Or did you mean the second diagnosis?
Waverly New York; I've been there, they still have the cheese factory being shall we say, aromatic
I once had a crunchy hamburger at Obrians restaurant in Waverly N.Y. that was 30 years ago.
I'm going to guess the Chevy had some plastic part cracked in the pump assembly that wouldn't be visible unless pressurised.
Looks like CLIMATE is the problem not the Make of car/Truck.
How can I get in touch with you please 🙏🙏
Quickies are like eating M&Ms. Mmmm Mmmm good!
Normally when an engine is not running for a while and an injector get stuck a light tap will bring it to life.
Couldn't you do an injector leak-down?
Let Bill know that he'll also be needing a new transmission in the next 30K miles or so.
The oem GM fuel pumps from '00-'20 are basically garbage and they won't go much more than ten years, approximately.
good to hear. My '08 should be safe. Although my first scan shocked me. The dashboard says it is an '05 module.
@@robertsmith2956 save yourself the future headache and just replace it now. I can almost guarantee you it will fail within the next year or two. Imo
@@nicetna2010 Mine is on steroids. The tank pressure sensor says I am at 3500psi.
Can't wait to get it up on stands and hook scope to sensor, and pump. Trips an evap code every ~600 miles. Will be my first alldata sub. The temp control motors are not working, so need to fix them as well. Found out the hard way on a 600 mile trip in early febuary. brrrrrrr..... Live data shows voltage signal changing, so looks like the motors are dead.
Should have the suzuki done this week, then I can put it up on stands. Can't wait to try out alldata, and the new pico. Got a start stall dodge that will give it, and my test lights a workout. 30 year old wires under the hood.
Glad GM uses a low pressure sensor unlike Ford where it's inferred and gets wonky from stinking thinking of their ECM.
All vehicle modules should be mounted inside of cab gravel salt mud water oil antifreeze what could possibly go wrong!!
hmmm, flood waters fill the trunk perhaps?
Those prince engines (peugeot) are absolute junk over here in the uk in the mini
Looks like somebody missed clamp day at the pump factory or maybe a Tequila Friday
Don't they know you're supposed to through out the Mini Copper after 100,000 miles.
Bad car, I'm calling it !
I'm serious in requesting feedback from auto component DESIGNERS. Specifically, electronic designers. When writing your design criteria do you include that this component: "shall not be damaged by any electrical connection being shorted to either B+ or GND?" Obviously the component won't function properly but will, by design, resume correct operation once short is repaired. Shorting +12V must activate proper fusing.
"FP module looks ok".
Frame, not so much.
Minipit.
Someone please sample Ivan's fuel pump sound effect and turn it into a meme 😅
I'll never own GDI. Even Hyundai has gone back to MPI on their 2.0 four cylinder.
Toyota uses both on the same engine. MPI for the low load regime, GDI at the high end. That strategy prevents GDI problems at low end and increases efficiency at high end. IMO, reliability should be what drives automotive technology and government mandates should go to hell.
If you need the likes and subscribes, you might want to consider final comments and the “like and subscribe” comment at the end of each video to cue the viewer to act.
Bad timing chain.. I'm calling it
Not sure you needed to go to the scope to be definitive on that fuel injector. When it didn't click with the test light, I think you could have called it there.
Given that the first (known-good) injector clicked only once, I can fully understand the need to double-check. Do these injectors not have a return spring, maybe? Maybe they rely on fuel pressure to close?
Still could be the driver since he only got the one click on other injector. Could ALSO be both, injector stuck, and driver failure since he wasn't detecting a pulse. Maybe a Noid light would show the pulse better. Thought you would see the injector opening as well. guess that is the current ramp for it.
Place your bets now, do the first commenters watch the whole video first before commenting?
Omg, I am still the first comment.
Shity Citroen/Peugeot engines (in Mini)😬🙄
Yeah, one of the worst engines made today. Total garbage.
U couldn’t pay me enough to own a mini cooper owned by BMW big money wasted
It's a German car; losing 25% of your cylinders isn't bad
come to think of it, they serialized their citizens as well at one point.
German engine only.
😂😂
They should colour these cars blue like Recycle bins... These things are absolute trash ready for the Auto-Recycler almost right after you buy them. EURO-TRASH to the max!
Yooo hooo, I am the first comment
First
I am the first comment, hooray
You're not, and nobody fucking cares anyway.
Wow first