@@justfinley1 Another throw away engine, I bet belt replacement is a complex engine out and half the engine apart job. The 1.0 Ecoboost in this video costs £1000 in the UK for a belt change, just for reference a normal cambelt is £300-£500 for replacement. A decent DIY enthusuiast can change most Cambelts too so it's even cheaper for them but no DIY home part time mechanic can change a wet belt.
Just about ran in then ? Some cars are great cars to own when they run forever , who cares about modern tech we don't need or asked for , I've kept my 2001 SLK , never plays up had it 15 years with 105k on her ....
@@CollinMac96 , you missed the point that some people don't want "newer" vehicles either because newer doesn't always equate to "better." In fact it often goes the other way. A lot of newer vehicles are made with substandard materials/implementations of those materials. Plastic oil pans that routinely leak/crack, plastic fuel lines routed near hot exhaust components creating spontaneous engine fires, "internal water pumps" which upon failing whether known/unknown to the owner may begin dumping coolant into the oil pan, valvetrain components which randomly fail within 50,000 to 150,000 miles causing the camshafts to be shredded. These are NOT "improvements in design", they're CHEAP methods of cost-cutting for manufacturers as well as often nonsense attempts at "satisfying EPA regulations." I was no fan of the introduction of "push-button start" vehicles requiring that the key FOB only be within some proximity to the vehicle and you could start the vehicle and drive away for some distance before it "lost contact with the transmitter".... What an easy "steal" for not only the thief/joyrider but the "repo-man" who could quietly walk into your yard, start your car and drive it down the street to his tow truck. Beyond that is the ridiculous "saving you a little gas and reducing emissions!!!", "auto-stop/start" nonsense where your vehicle will shut off the engine at every stop, then restart the engine upon releasing the brake/depressing the accelerator. I question the validity of their claims because not only does this create excessive wear/tear on the starter motor but physics tells me that constantly stopping and restarting a rotating mass wastes more energy than that mass rotating at "idle" for a specified amount of time. Most "stopping" is for just a few seconds, at most about ~3 minutes, at least that's the supposed timer limit on "traffic lights." Some lights are programmed to change within 1-30 seconds of the "loop" being tripped under the street. It's not always about "what can people afford", as a "newer POS" is just as a much a "POS" as an "old one."
At 120,000 miles it's survived extremely well. I've seen a couple of those here in the UK with less than 60,000 miles on them that have been completely destroyed.
I visited my local machine shop a couple of years ago and they had a row of these motors on the floor. Some driven under 100 000 kms were about to get a third set of pistons and valves. I thought it insane but they made good money rebuilding them
I’ll say it again, inexpensive cars need to not only be reliable, but they need to tolerate neglect and still be reliable. Turbos, direct injection, timing belts wet or dry, CVTs, among other things require additional attention that owners of basic transportation may not be prepared to address from a financial perspective. Some of these are lucky to get regular oil changes.
Every dollar spent to gain efficiency adds complexity. People with a budget car do not need turbos, direct injection, CVTs, etc. They need a port-injection NA Volvo 240 that doesn't get class-leading fuel economy but is reliable for 2+ decades.
That's why I've always been a fan of the (previously produced) Mitsubishi Mirage manual transmission base model. No turbo, tiny engine, manual transmission, timing chain, and plenty of space to work on things. It was the last economy car that got the point of being an economy car. People like to bash on the Mirage because it's small and slow and cheap but it is damn near indestructible and inexpensive to maintain.
Shooting compressed air in the turbine housing is how we high speed core balance EcoBoost turbos. Of course that is in a million dollar machine, and we do supply pressurized oil when we are doing it….
The slit in the block is to improve water flow to aid cooling of the head gasket. One of the common failure modes of early eco-boost engines was overheating of the head gasket at the cylinder junction leading to premature failure. The fundamental problem though is that the cylinders are too close together.
If ford absolutely had to have a short crank they could have went similar to vw vr5/vr6 design with a vr3. these provide a lot of room around the top of the cylinders for cooling. sadly they are all SOHC.
@@martin-vv9lf Yeah as if Ford would ever build something in the same league as VW VR engine. VW mostly make decent engines and their 1.9 diesel units were some of the best Diesels to ever exist. Modern Fords are the most unreliable cars going.
I had a 2015 focus with this engine. I got it for 8000 with 57k miles and drove until 90k. That thing with the little 6 speed manual was really fun, and still could get 40+ mpg going 70+ mph down the highway. Sounded pretty good too. The only issue I had, and the one that made me get rid of it, was when asemi blew a tire in front of me and I couldn't swerve out of the way and ran over the shredded tire. Must've jerked the car a certain way, but it blew the head gasket. It was just burning coolant, not mixing in the oil, so that was a plus. I had to dry off the spark plugs every day or else it wouldn't start. Luckily, the car market went crazy and I got 7500 when I sold it😂 only $500 difference
@@samoliver3242 Thank god you saw the warning signs if a semi blowout can fuck your engine imagine how little changes could screw it. Thing is back in 2019 I got a 1.2 Tubro Toyota Auris for £9500 with 40k miles and zero issues. In 2024 I still have had zero issues on 84k miles.
@@gravemind6536 fr. In the end, they just wanted to replace the engine cause "they didn't know if the head was warped," which I guess is fair, but it was never overheated. Was going to cost the same as the cars worth.
As one progresses through life, try your best to ensure there isn't excessive shaft play, this helps minimize wear and potential damage to your components...
i work at a ford dealer and the amount of 1L engines i replace a month is absurd, but when i was in quick lane we never had the “right” oil for them so we just used regular 5w20
@@leneanderthalien It's not just Ford. PSA Group did the same (Peugeot, Citroen, ...). Now there are lawsuits against them in France. And yes, there is a recommended oil, and no, that still doesn't save the belt. Family memeber works at a partner service told a lot of stories, and also friends had issues with their car LESS than 100k km, all service done at Peugeot.
yep, but i don't get the events timeline. i would think the oil pump wasn't that bad so it overheated, so then the gasket fails, then you get the milkshake...
In Brazil these wet timing belts engines from Ford, GM and Peugeot barely get 60k miles without serious problems and very high repair bills 😂😂 My friend some day rented a Ford Ka with 1 liter 3cyl N/A and the engine knocked with just 25k miles in the middle of nowhere...
@@25aspooner Yes. Very common use of ethanol basically everyday for years and wrong engine oil (Ford uses a specific 5w20 WSS-M2C960-A1 and the average Joe who drives these shitboxes working on Uber doesn't care...)
actually ford would call that a travesty and go back to the drawing board to try to make the engine more likely to fail around the 36001 mile mark as intended
Slits in the block is usualy an aftertought. My friend took part of the development of the first generation audi R8 V8 engine and they had a problem with the cylinder walls melting where was no coolant and they introduced two 1 mm holes drilled in an X patern between the cylinders to solve the problem. He told me also that the volvo I5 turbo had the same problem at the time and it has a very thin gap already in the 2.5 liter engine and they still had to split it. This is why if you look at it you think why would someone design something like that? The answer they didn"t. They fixed the problem when the production was already started.
This is the most important comment here I feel. Obvious after machining that should've been solved well before it got to that stage. Hard edges from a saw cut vibrating against a headgasket is never going to work well. HG surface mating orifices are almost always rounded that I've seen, for good reason.
@@YZJB Mostly when you drive software, but the Volvo I5's also did run more power. The one in the ST is also known to fail but only if driven like crap (floored cold and not driven cold at all), then you also might get cracks. Far as I know, the highest mileage ST in my circle has like 240k km on it and they only did bearings once as precaution. They can hold if driven properly. My ST has 180k on the clock and won't loose any coolant nor burn any. But with the next belt exchange the engine gets modded.
You help me learn so much, I really want to get into this kind of work. I'm an apprentice mechanic and I love watching your videos on my break or after work. Thank you
We all started without knowing the taste of piston mcnuggets. Eric will help ya get where you want to be. He sells a good engine too- my Camaro is still happy a year later.
Same. I learned everything from this channel, but I lost my job when I launched a lady's water pump into orbit with a civil war cannon. I really don't know why they were so angry considering that is standard operating procedure?
The slot between the cylinders was to allow coolant to flow from 1 side of the block to the other. In doing so, the space in between the cylinder does not have enough "meat" and the gasket inevitably fails due to the high heat and pressure inside the engine. This is well documented on the internet. That- together with the wet oil belt dooms the engine. This is a tiny engine that was asked to do too much.
Cheers Eric, here in the UK my ecoboost focus made it all the way to 38k before the engine man light came on. Garage really good in saying they didn't think it was with trying to fix it as they couldn't source replacement engine due to the number of failures. A year later Ford kind of recognised they have issues, but the level of proof of good care is pretty high to get warranty, and to late for me, car was long gone.
My friend had one of these fail in her EcoSport recently. Oil pump belt issue, all the teeth ripped off the belt. All of her oil changes have been at the dealership. She'd tried to get the recall for that issue handled three times before it failed, Ford kept saying they didn't have the part. After a month in the dealership, they ended up only replacing parts of the engine, not the whole thing. It didn't seize, but it ran for a while with no working oil pump. So that's concerning. And I'm still not sure they installed the updated parts required by the recall. Thankfully my friend had bought the extended warranty from Ford, so she's got about another 30k miles before that runs out. I told her she needs to sell that vehicle sooner than later.
Ford has a TSB out for the 1.0L belt failure. it states to check the actual oil pressure with a manual gauge. If it reads 0psi at idle then the engine needs to be replaced.
Ford won't have updated parts (belt and tensioner) available to properly fix the issue until 1Q 2025. Until then the interim repair for the recall is to replace the long block (more or less the entire engine) with the existing design. Then once the updated parts are available the car has to come back to the dealer to have them installed.
@@nickloh912 good to know, I'll pass that along. I'm also trying to get her to show me a copy of the service report so I can see what they replaced. She read it to me verbally at one point, and I don't remember the long block being listed. But I could be remembering incorrectly.
You're friend should see if she can be apart of the lawsuit. Or grab enough folks affected and bring one to Ford while the class action happening. More leverage @@gregorymalchuk272
It's a hideous jacked up Fiesta, get inside a Focus more space all round yet the thing is more efficent and faster and more powerful. This is why I hate crossovers they suck.
@@gravemind6536 I read Car & Driver's review and they tore it apart in the first paragraph. Made me realize why I've never heard of them. Ford could've just kept the Focus and Fiesta and they wouldn't get so much hate.
I'm not interested in engines or mechanics yet I keep watching your videos. What is wrong with me and what is your magic that keeps me watching? I've probably seen about half your videos. Thanks, I think.
My aunt and uncle had an EcoSport with one of these until about the seventh or eighth time it was in the shop under warranty before they finally got rid of it. Had less than 30k miles on it. I swear it spent more time there than it did in their possession.
@@piggy310 If memory serves, it had two engine replacements and the rest were related to the wet belt or the one time is started to get a little warm and they shut it off before it overheated and it needed a new head gasket.
Oh they definitely were. It's not like they could be short a vehicle either. I never heard the story on how they got rid of it, but they certainly did after the second engine replacement.
I work at a ford dealer. I lost track of how many 4 cylinder and 3 cylinder ecoboosts I have done so far. At 24:39, you can see the carbon deposits between the cylinders on the head gasket. Coolant sneaks into the saw cuts of the coolant jackets. Those cylinders distort in relation to the short block. It would show if you put a straight edge on the deck surface of the short block. I just wonder why the 2.7, 3.0, and 3.5 ecoboost don’t have these issues and still use the same open deck short block design?
Have one in our dealer (2018 EcoSport with 86,000 miles) ive been waiting two months (most other dealers report up to 6+ months) for a high pressure fuel pump so i can install the new long block (this will be the third engine in the car)
I work at ford doing tear downs and engine replacements… finding a lot of coolant intrusion on the 1.0 due to the exhaust manifold port having cracks in them. Causing coolant to leak in the cylinders and the exhaust systems. If no signs of failed head gasket or a failed short block
Speculating that's what happened here, because there was no damage to the bearings/journals. The car probably turned into a smoke bomb (steam bomb?) and the owner got it into the shop quick. Had it only failed leaking into the oil, owner may not have noticed until more internal damage was done.
@@jaimecholula3 That wouldn't explain the milkshake oil though, would it? It would just blow steam out the exhaust, but I can't see it mixing with the oil.
My 1.6 ecoboost cracked between the sparkplug and injector ports. Unfortunately I didn't look into the coolant loss quickly enough, just topped up the coolant over a period of 4 to 6 weeks until I decided to do an investigation at which point oil dilution had already occurred. The damage to the cylinder walls and journals meant there was no saving it .
Thanks Eric, it truly boggles the mind why a company would go to all the trouble of building such a complex machine, then plant an absolute time bomb at its heart, instead of spending literally an extra $200 (if that...) to make it reliable.
@@leeselset5751 Why doesn’t Ford manufacture their Automobiles like they manufacture their Trucks? I purchased new in 2002. A Ford F-350 super duty truck. It has the Power Stroke 7.3 liter diesel engine. Other than normal maintenance. I’ve only ever had to replace 1 brake line that rusted and 3 cam sensing position modules. I get an average of 22 miles per gallon at 70 miles per hour. If I set the cruise control to 75 MPH or higher. The miles per gallon drops to 15 miles per gallon. I don’t understand why my truck’s fuel consumption drops so much. This of course depends on the speed limit and the flow of traffic. I’m not one of those people that will go 70 mph when the flow of traffic is averaging 75 mph. I stay within what most everyone else’s speed is going. I NEVER OBSTRUCT THE FLOW OF TRAFFIC. It pisses me off when people are going 70 mph. When the flow of traffic is averaging 75 miles per hour. I never get road rage,it isn’t worth the aggravation. I always yield to semi trucks. When I was pulling my 35’ camper. I was very surprised at how many semi truck drivers would allow me the space to change lanes when I would turn the blinker on . Before I was pulling the 35’ camper. I would rarely allow room for a semi truck driver to change lanes. When I was pulling my 35’ camper. I noticed how most people driving automobiles and light duty pickup trucks. Would intentionally not allow a semi truck to change lanes. By intentionally speeding up to not allowing the space for a semi truck to change lanes. After I saw how semi truck drivers would almost always allow me the space to change lanes. This gave me a lot of respect for semi truck drivers and all the crap they deal with on any 4 lane or more highway or Interstate highway . I now will always allow the space for semi trucks to change lanes. I flash my vehicles headlights to let the Semi truck Driver know. I am going to give them the space to change lanes when the semi truck driver puts their semi’s blinker on. The looks I get from many people driving automobiles and light duty trucks is amazing. Many give me the middle finger and some will brake check as soon as they get around me. I just smile and wave. So try be considerate to semi truck drivers and give them the space to change lanes. Especially if they are staying with the flow of traffic. Remember that these semi truck drivers are the people that move goods around. So when you go shopping. The shelves aren’t empty. Without semi truck drivers. Many of the ordinary things we regularly purchase. Would not regularly be on the shelves at your local grocery or any other store. Something that can be annoying at times. When I give the space for a semi truck driver to change lanes. When the semi truck driver takes sometimes minutes to pass another vehicle. Especially on I-95 in Virginia, when going up the many grades. I give the space for the semi truck driver to move into the lane I am in. Then their semi truck slows down to the point that their semi truck stops overtaking the vehicle they are trying to get past. I believe this is mainly caused by the semi truck has a governor that won’t allow them to exceed 70 mph.i just remain patient,NEVER get road rage and deal with it. Eventually the semi truck will get past the vehicle they are trying to get past so they can change back to the lane they were in. Before the semi truck passed a vehicle going slower than they are. Anyway DO NOT GET ROAD RAGE. If you do,you may regret it. Many people today carry firearms in their vehicles. Getting road rage with someone that has a firearm in their vehicle. Your road rage gets out of control. You get past the vehicle and start brake checking them. Trying to get the vehicle to pull over. This driver of the vehicle has a firearm. Ends up pulling over. You exit your vehicle and start making threats of great bodily harm. Can lead to something you will regret by your life being extinguished. I’ve a CWP and always carry. No matter what I’m not going to do something I will regret. By allowing some road rage imbecile. Get me to pull off the road and stop on the shoulder of the road. Like I previously wrote. I just wave,smile and many times put my arms in the air. Signaling that I’m sorry. This has worked every single time. One thing that does get under my skin. When someone cuts me off then gives me their middle finger. I still just smile and wave. Bring non confrontational will always end in your favor. The last thing you want to happen. Is get arrested and spend the night in jail. For something that is easily avoided.
Why would you do it this way ford? So i started driving chevys. What were you thinking GM? Tried to drive a dodge instead, but it wouldnt go into gear.
That groove allowed coolant to flow across the head, constant failures of the headgasket as a result. The redesign they drilled holes into a channel so the headgasket had a full flat metal mating surface. Ford has an "upgraded" head gasket for those engines, still have a high failure rate.
Ya we are going to be busy in a few years, 2.7 v6, 3.0 v6, 1.5 I3, and 5.0 in the f150s all have wet belt driving oil pumps. Ford saw these nightmares and decided to start putting them in all their cars
Great video Eric! Just a thought for you, which I'm sure others have shared with you, but you could take a straight edge of some kind and set it on the head or block, and if you can see light under any parts along the edge, it is warped. I would like to see that in an upcoming video sometime! Otherwise I love your channel, and always get excited when I see that you posted a video! Thanks! Frank
It amazes me that these little engines produce power, with boost, and some folk think they’ll last doing that. Some of them I’ve seen you take apart are so complex, and numerous one-time use items, cam bearings that can’t be replaced for instance, that it seems they really aren’t economical to rebuild.
It's possible to do it but very few are doing it right. My Toyota has a 1.2 turbo petrol unit with direct injection unit, in 8 years and 84k miles it's had no issues and I haven't seen anyone reporting any issues with the engine. Sadly Toyota stopped making the engine because people were more interested in their hybrid drivetrains but it's a very good modern turbo petrol unit. VAG have also made these sorts of engines with only minor issues compared to the Ford and PSA units, VAG modern turbo engines mostly only suffer from timing chain issues which if treated early are put right before damage is done they just have the chain rattle warning.
@@TheBigdog868 What engine was that specifically? Honestly how you can fuck a Diesel engine I don't know they're so simple and VW, Mercedes and even Renault, peugoet and Fiat never fucked them up. I guess small Diesels aren't Americas thing so perhaps they suck at making them. German diesels pre 2008 have the same sort of reliability as Toyota and Honda engines.
Ford was actually sort of close to making a great engine, if not for that stupid wet belt. I had a 2015 focus 1.0 ecoboost manual. Drove nice, and would knock down 43-45 mpg pretty consistently. Enough power for driving to work. I put 40k trouble free miles on it. Found pieces of timing belt at 80k during an oil change and traded it for a 2008 mazda3 that now has 200k on it without ever being opened.
@@solderbuff Skyactiv has had some issues with porous metal in the heads in a couple years of production, and I believe some heat treating issues with part of the early transmissions (fixed at some point in 2013) but that's really about it. I'm at 209K miles on my '13 Mazda 3 and I've put less than 1000$ into repairs in it (excepting the usual things like oil changes, battery, headlights). The manual mode has let me spend 0$ on brakes so far by letting me engine brake.
@@big0bad0brad , I have a 2010 Mazda 3 (non-Skyactiv). It burns whole a lot of oil, but likely due to poor maintenance by the previous owners. I love the car anyway ❤️ Considering upgrading to a Ford Escape hybrid as I already know the engine.
watch the 1.5L 3 cylinder ecoboost. It is chain driven. Its one of the best modern engines. En 1L Ecoboost, bigger, better pistons, bigger turbo, chain driven, 200 hp and 290 Nm of torque.
I have a 2015 Fiesta "SFE" which came with only the 1.0 & 5 spd. Fun little go-cart with good power for the size. But yeah, i recently had the wet belts replaced at ~145k (Ford recommends 150k replacement). I had a local shop do the replacement and it was quite the project. Ford quoted me 6k for the work. They truly are making disposable cars.
Mine is at 120kmiles, I run the car HARD, and still have had no issue. But am getting ready to to replace it myself as I figure iv already far surpassed everyone else in luck
@@mikonrad. If that 6k quote was in U.S. dollars Ford should pay. Stupid should hurt. Not your customers but YOU. It was stupid to not use a chain. With good oil the chain should never give trouble.
@@chiiandme1 As long as you're running good oil and diligent with oil changes, it should be fine, even when running hard. I don't have a garage and didn't have the tooling for the repair, parts were difficult to source as well so I had to vet several shops - was even turned away from one of my local shops; didn't want to touch it. I think these timing jobs/1.0 Ecoboosts are much more common in the UK so they don't have same mechanic or availability issues. Whoever does the timing belt, make sure you get that oil pump belt changed too (requires dropping the oil pan) and also make absolutely sure you have a clean oil pick-up - remove and clean it if you're in doubt.
@@dannybryant6873 it was still a recent motor when I got it and there really wasn't too much negative about it though I had to rely on the UK forums and mechanics about it because there was hardly anything about the 1.0 in the US at the time I bought it (2019). Considering how sensitive the belts are to incorrect or older oil, and their propensity of destroying multiple engine systems when they deteriorate, it is pretty incredible the short-sightedness of Ford. The engine is great in theory but it appears Ford didn't plan on real world use and wear/tear.
I had a 98 camry, burned half a quart every 3-4k. Still can confirm it's still on the road, I was young and fucked up letting it go. Sold it at 158k spotless and still running and shifting so smooth. It's currently in flordia that has 280k still on original engine parts... And my God the frames on thoes even in Illinois salt belt held up great. I did always wash it every week when I was young had time. Man I miss that car full tank of gas could easily go 400 miles 27-35 mpg. Oh and to this day had the COLDEST damn ac ever never experienced anything like it yet. Big thick metal body not like the super paper thin shit they use now
Hello, I live in the Netherlands and work with these engines every day. we see few problems with it. Change the oil regularly every 20 km. Ford made a mistake by installing the cooling channel between the cylinder walls, but the 1.5 liter also has that. The head gasket can't handle that. There is a modification in which a channel runs at an angle of 20 or 30 degrees from top to bottom. And according to Ford it is not necessary to replace the oil pump belt. We do this and at a lower mileage. 200dkm
I had to stop and rewind i thought it was me. Yes they look wrong. I dint see it being manufactured off center. I feel their is an issue with either the pulleys or if it was the thickness of the belt maybe.
I saw that too. Since it's only a few degrees or rotation it's not an off center or bent issue as it would rise and fall once per revolution. I can't figure it out. However imagine that at 5000 rpm. It seems terribly wrong.
Maybe the milkshake doesn't allow the timing belt teeth to smoothly slip down into each individual groove in the timing cogs....so occasionally an individual tooth could ride a little higher before slipping down into the valley? The meshing would be enhanced by the correct oil viscosity being applied at he cog/tooth interface?
The one thing that frustrated me alot when i use to work at ford was these 61s was that (at the time i was there, i'm sure they changed it now) there was no change interval for the oil pump belt, like it just wasn't in any of the recommended mileage intervals anywhere, and when you try to get a customer to change something that's not on it or your overhead doesn't care and wants to push cars as fast as possible, customers never went for it as it was i think another 1.5 hours, The other issue is when you went into the parts department, they had the nice red jugs with Ford oils you can buy, but when the oil changes was being done in the shop, we just had the 55 gallon barrels that sometimes said valvoline, phillips 66, shell ECT... what ever was cheapest that day i guess and that's what was put in your car, we never had "Ford" oil going in customers cars that i ever saw. Now what i'm about to say next is well alot to do with maintenance, and it shows, i'm not a ford fan, the triton years did me in and the Ecofarts to me was just as bad, but i knew/know a few people with the 61ci that is still going strong today, one manual version with over 300K, but both belts and belt tensioners are being replaced every 100K, not much i can say about the tensioners in general as when they would come in, ford was all over the customer that you need a new engine or trade it in, so never had time to play with one or had a customer wanting to rebuild one. Also i've always wondered if someone tig welded the center part of the slits between the cylinders but leave the small holes on both sides open and machined it flat, no one i ever worked with/Ford could ever tell me why they did that and other engines with the same layout didn't and was just fine.
Very informative, I didn't see where the oil/coolant breakdown occurred. It's really interesting to see you take apart an engine where you need the parts. Most, probably, but this one in particular.
You said "only" 121k miles, but honestly that's a pretty fucking good performance out of this garbage. Many don't reach 80k. 100k is lucky. 121k is like winning the lottery.
I live in Europe, and I drive a car with the Stellantis NA 3-cylinder 1.2 "Puretech" EB2F. That engine has a wet timing belt, which is notorious for failing, to the point where there might also be a class-action lawsuit brewing in France. The oil pump is driven by a chain, though. Because of the wet timing belt, it requires a very specific oil, which is formulated to neutralize the effects of gasoline that might mix into the oil. That's unfortunate in that engine because apparently the rings tend to gum up more than expected and allow quite some blow-by when cold. The recommended oil change interval is 15000 km (about 10000 miles), but the manual recommends more frequent intervals for severe usage, and the definition of severe usage includes city driving, which is a likely scenario for a lot of the cars where that engine is installed. Stellantis made several mistakes in my opinion: they should have specified a shorter oil change interval for all scenarios, they did not mention any specific number of starts that the oil can handle, and they did not equip the car with an oil life monitor. Stellantis has reduced the service interval on the belt, now 100000 km (600000 miles), and they've also changed its chemical makeup. Mostly, they've redesigned that part of the engine and newer models have a timing chain instead of the belt. The belt can start to swell before it has any visible damage; when there's any visible damage, it's a very bad sign. There's a tool to measure whether the belt has swollen, by checking its width, which can increase as the belt loses structural integrity, and that width can be checked through the oil filler cap. As part of the belt service, the oil pickup has to be checked for signs of debris. If it has debris, the oil pump needs to be changed, and the solenoids then also need to be checked and changed as necessary. I bought the car used, it has service records showing that its oil changes were done every 15000 km by the original owner, but I don't know in which conditions it was driven. I have the oil changed every 7500 km. I had the belt service done a few months ago. Since that involves removig the oil pan, timing cover, and valve cover, I used the opportunity to have them replace the water pump as well. Apparently my belt was in excellent condition, and, with no debris in the oil pickup, there was no need for any further inspections. Hopefully the engine will last.
Well, since you've changed the belt and have been vigilant about oil, it will probably be fine if you keep taking care of it. From what I've read, the 1.2 Puretech is not as problematic as Ford's EcoBum.
Stellantis... Puah. Once there were FIAT engines. You can say anything about FIAT, but they knew how to do good engines. Think about the Fire ones or the Miltiair on the Giulia and Giulietta (and 500 Abarth). No, they are not putting those French c_r_a_p also in Jeep...
@@1marcelfilms - it's a long story. I was in the middle of moving, I needed to buy a car that I could drive off the lot, I was limited to a small number of dealerships, and that was the best option available. I won't keep it forever, I have a new car ordered already.
@@leneanderthalienThat was a joke he made. The mix of oil and coolant make it somehow of water cooled belt. In the past Ford had a 1.6 diesel based on a Peugeot design with a wet belt. One could buy a chain conversion for that.
@@DrDre-ir4guThey didn't use a wetbelt on that 1.6 PSA engine it was the 1.8 tdci that was a ford engine not based on Peugeot they originally came with chains so it's not as much work to provide a conversion kit from wet belt back to chains again
Back in the sixties, I had a 1952 Jaguar XK-120. The twin cam engine it had was a piece of art. Every bottom end nut and bolt was safety wired to hold that beast together. I would be willing to say that your tiny Ford engine is way more complicated than the one in my Jaguar. Back then, when you opened the hood, you actually could see a magnificent engine. That Ford is a plastic joke.
If I recall. Ford added the cut to try and keep the area between the bores from cracking by adding coolant flow. I'm wondering if the milkshake came from the stud that holds the filter and housing being loose? Looking at the belt tensioner you took off. You can see it has started spinning the pin in that stamped plate. I'd theorize that they keep pressure on that weak point until it works loose as the belt slaps against it. I'd also speculate that people who drive hard have a problem with that part sooner then people who don't.
Wild hearing the spool of a small turbo like that without the clattering valve train etc. Thanks for doing it, screw the haters man there's enough oil film in there for a brief cold run lol.
the wall between two cylinders is the hottest part of the block. They put the slit there to control temperature and cylinder shape. If you have coolant all around the cylinder it tends to stay round.
@@kennykennedy6298 Out of 61 cubic inches, yeah that's quite a bit of heat. Right at two HP per C/I. My diesel only does one HP per C/I at 8 psi boost.
@@barto6577what's amazing to me is motorcycles have been making more power, out of 600ccs for a very long time, reliably. It's like everything we've learned about making reliable high performance small displacement engines has been outright ignored by the automotive world. 200hp 1 liter na engines that are very reliable isn't a rare or new thing. And these cars generally have a larger cooling system that can dump the heat more efficiently than bikes do too.
@@KR-hg8be With bikes it's all about RPM. The HP formula is RPM dependant. Torque and HP are equal at right about 5250 RPM, as the RPM goes up so does the HP.
my 2015 ford focus 65 k on the clock has this engine not had any problems with it yet just had a service i will be getting thjis dfone in a few weeks great content eric
A wet belt is sketchy and the steam slots are also very poor design. Then, I'd bet the oil cooler failed and dumped water into the oiling system. Did anyone else notice the out-of-roundness of the cam phaser pulleys?
I had this engine fail on me at 87k miles. Carbon buildup was so bad that cylinder two intake valves kissed piston. Valve snapped and embedded itself in piston.
Dry timing belt, gear drive oil pump, get rid of the coolant slits, put keyways on the shafts, and add port injection with the DI would make it a great engine for economy cars.
Agree. I don't know why they do this crap to an engine like this... I get the 5.0 (though I hate it) they state the OP belt holds up better vs gears in high HP circs.... But for an eco commuter like this the mods you put are exactly how this should have been built.
Driving 4 answers had a video recently about it, basically the belts can improve efficency and emissions by a tiny bit due to lower rotating mass and friction when oiled. though they cause the engines to eventually produce more pollution by virtue of blowing up and bring replaced but ford et al don't care about that cause getting it through the euro inspections and epa is all that matters now.
Fords new 7.3 liter Godzilla pushrod V8 is built for easier service. A friend just brought one home and I insisted he let me see the engine. It was so far from the fenders and covered with so much "stuff" that we really could not see how its easier for service. I'd like to see one of that torn down. Thanks Eric.
The 22R is The best engine ever, in my opinion. I've had a few of them with well over 250k miles and other than an oil leak or two they gave me no problems. If I could find an early Celica or Hilux that's not rusted into the ground I'd buy it in a heartbeat.
Ditto the Toyota engines! The fours do as well or better on less gas but I'm now wayyy past the 400,000 mile mark on a V6 (1MZ-FE) Solara. Picked it up at 113,000 miles from a coworker and I have run it up to 654,000 very trouble-free miles. Two biggest issues were a leaking shift solenoid in the transmission (original) valve body.....and, for the engine, the #4 and #6 (adjacent) cylinders showed low compressions. I removed the left head and found the intake valves had carbon buildup preventing complete closure. Cleaned up the carbon, checked the valve clearances (all in spec), and put it back together. Who knows what will make that engine fail....probably a $6 rear main seal if it ever goes bad. This engine is pretty simple, no balance cartridge, gear-driven oil pump, dry timing belt, non-variable valve timing, I use cheap gas (maybe why the carboned intake valves but probably a bad PCV) and I have never had the injectors out....why not just keep this concept for every other passenger car engine?? Maybe it's not quite as fuel-efficient but the good quality/dependability has kept the bigger body of the car out of the landfill/junk yard for 24+ years.
the camary 5 SFE is such a reliable engine my camry will die due to rust it will eventually go to the scrap yard due to rust with a good engine and trans
That timing belt and oil pump belt has a service interval of 10 years or 240.000Km. The recommended oil ist 5W-20 API SN Ford WSS-M2C945-A One problem with this german engineered 1.0 Ecoboost is oil dillution from short trips or wot driving. The fuel delaminates the belt materials. So of course the oil change interval of 2 years or 30.000Km is way too long. The belt material clogged the oil pickup the oil sieve for the turbo feed and the vacuum pump for the brake booster. These components fail first. The headgasket issue is a common Ford Ecoboost problem. The groove between the cylinders was meant for improved cooling. These engines run very hot on purpose. A hot engine have lower friction ie lower fuel consumption 3% less to speak in numbers. The normal operating temperature is around 100 degrees celsius. The updated version of this engine have a timing chain but still a wet belt for the oil pump which has to be replaced every 10 years or 240.000Km also. And these oil pump belts keep on failing. This engine is a big joke to everyone. Stay away from it if you dont plan on having brakedowns with your car and spend lots of dollars to it. There are so many possible failing points with these.
Whoa whoa what, a nearly 15k mile oil change interval? Anyone who did that is stupid, even 10k miles is insane if you understand how broken down oil gets in a hot running, highly stressed small turbo engine. The oils going to be mostly carbon grit and contaminants long before you reach 10k miles.
@@jonathantaroco around 2019 you can tell if the turbocharger is not in the front anymore and the displacement is 999cc instead the 998cc from the first gen.
I've always heard of but never actually seen any specific oil type needed for these engines. There are oil specs from Ford (WSS-M2C945-A is what the manual for the Focus this engine came out of says), but these oil specs are simply tied to API/ILSAC specs and the respective viscosity grade, with the aforementioned spec correlating with API SN, ILSAC GF-5, and 5W-20 grade oil.
It's WSS-M2C948-A for Europe but that's a 5W-20 as well. I wonder why they felt the need to just slightly change the oil spec. (Not that that makes them any more reliable)
Make's me proud of my 17 year old Mazda 3 (bought in 07 as an 08 model before the big redesign.) It's been through the ringer, over 100 trips to the mountains and back (no salt thankfully in CA), has had 2 alternator replacements, has had periods of old oil, probably burning oil, the thermostat went out last year but thank goodness the engine didn't blow up. Currently sitting at 238k miles with a clean bill of health earlier this year, all new fluids, and she still starts up like a champ. I changed a headlight in my work parking lot under an LED tower after sundown several hours ago. She's a champ. If it ain't broke, don't fix it. And if you can fix it, keep her on the road. I love my 22 WRX but my 08 Mazda 3 will forever keep me humble
I put 260K on a similar 2004 Mazda 3 5 sp. Finally had to put a fuel pump in the tank at about 240K. ( still working but pressure was dwindling) Other than that still ran perfectly when I traded it in for the wife's MX-5
Ok, I tear these down every day as I work for Ford here in the UK and I have NEVER seen a tensioner on the oil pump!! Of the many oil pumps abs wet belts I have replaced, the oil pump drive belt is floating
That's correct and apparently the redesigned engine now has a chain driven cam but they've retained the floating oil pump wet belt which is known to deteriorate and block the oil strainer in the sump. Bizarre.
Great video. When introduced in 2012 this engine (than won engine of the several times) didn't have a balance shaft or a tensioner on the oil pump belt. It appears Ford's 'improvements' have caused more trouble than they've solved by the sound of things!
Somehow every Japanese and most euro bike companies have figured out how to make reliable 1l and below high performance engines yet it eludes most auto makes with 10 times the engineering budget
I put 100k on a 15 fiesta 1.0 manual with no issues. Sold it to a friend who eventually had some issues with the car but not the engine. I am religious about on time oil changes at 5k intervals though and that helps.
Great video. I have a friend who has an ecosport and he's afraid to turn on the air conditioning, because it sucks to much gas. I'm not sure why such a small car would use that much gas when the air conditioner is on, but he's a petty pitcher.
Out of boost, that engine is making roughly as much power as a household blender. When I was a kid, my family had an '86 Civic. I'm told that the difference between not having AC at all (when first bought new) vs even having AC installed and turned off was noticeable. Once the AC was on, it really drew a lot of power away. I bet that the Ecoboost loses enough power it has to dip into boost more, which is absolutely terrible for gas mileage.
I can watch these eco boost videos all day, because I own a 2000 Toyota Camry(owned since new) that just runs and runs and runs even in the harsh Canadian winters and surprisingly hot summers. It's boring but hey when you want to go on a 2000 to 3000 kilometer road trip in AC comfort with cruise control etc. that all works perfectly with no repairs needed in 24 years I know what I drive.
I had a 2016 Ford Focus 1.0L EcoBoost... I went through 3 ECUs in 48,000 miles. Every time I had the ECU fail it would take 7-8 weeks in the shop while waiting on parts from Europe...
@@samserious1337 no idea, I traded the car in while it was on the 3rd ecu replacement. And from what I gather by looking up the old vin the problem continued.
Putting water straight water in with coolant delute the anti electrolysis properties in the coolant which protect the engine from corrosion and it also keeps the water pump from lubrication which coolant has a little lubricate in it so the bushing gets prematurely worn.
Hello, if anyone wants some info: I'm from South America, and these engines with "wet belts" are very common to break. Engines from the 80's and 2000's and cars until 2009 were reliable. Ford even was the king of reliability with the Zetec RoCam engine. Now with the wet belt system, everyone who understand a little condemns these vehicles. And coming from a country with almost no maintenance in cars, this is instant failure. Older vehicles with 4 cylinders even with NO maintenance can still be reliable here. these newer 3 cylinder engines will never last here, specially because they cannot be "rectified". This system is a disaster. even if it was chain driven i bet it wouldnt last more than 130k miles
Seeing that filter thread loose reminds me of a mustang with a 4 cylinder turbo that broke that part and dumped oil all over a track and caused someone to crash. Likely became loose from an oil change and not checked. This is why I really like full flow filters instead of spin ons. In my opinion the m50/s50 does it best.
Well, i have a 1.0 ecoboost Fiesta from 2017, runs very well, change the wetbelt already at 100K. I keep it because the fuel economy is very good. To be honest all cars who have a thermal engine can have a catastrophic failure at one point if they do not take care of their engines. If you take care of your engine will run well if not will blow up. This is known since this engines hit the market.
My daughter has one of these in a fiesta, it started to suffer oil pressure issues at 60,000 miles, I had read all the stories about the wet belt, so I removed the sump for a look at her oil pickup. It was full of wet belt fibres. As a cheap temporary repair, I cleaned it all out and refitted the sump, clean oil and filter and it’s ran great since,,,the belt still needs changing though before the engine grenades itself. She didn’t have the money to pay a garage, and I didn’t have time to pull it all apart at home. Yes, I know, it’s gonna bite soon…
In Europe the big fault with this timing belt is the use of Bioethanol in the gasoline, this will kill the timing belts. We can only buy with 5% or 10% Bioethanol, so buying the 5% and changing oil often will make the timing belts last longer.
I enjoyed the auto autopsy on this engine which reminds me of the one in my motorcycle. Thanks. It doesn't feel like it would take too much to convert this to run a couple of duplex chains and tensioners in place of the belts if someone could be bothered. There looks to be plenty of space. It would probably make a little bit more mechanical noise.
I remember when this engine was added to the choice of engines available for the new at the time Focus. I took one for a spin around the block. It was the most underwhelming test drive I had ever been on, even with the six speed manual transmission. And I've been a Ford dealership tech since 2000, and turning wrenches since 1994 so I've definitely driven more than my share of different vehicles in that time. I remembered commenting to my coworkers on how poor of an idea I thought the so called "wet belt" was. Thank God this engine has been extremely "low take".
lmao I remember driving a 90's Ford Contour automatic for driving instruction. 45mph uphill with the pedal floored engine sounding like it was going to throw a rod. The 1.0L liter focus is a supercar in comparison to that old turd.
I've the same engine in my c-max, nearly 12 years old now and 160k on the clock. It gets just one service a year and never missed a beat and I haven't heard of any horror story here in Europe.
I have a footage of disassembled after 530000km (not kidding with zeros and it’s totally confirmed one oner vehicle) 1.0L Ecoboost out of 2013 Focus (EU), manual trasmission. With this transmission option comes a simple engine oil pump without balance shafts and oil pump belt tensioner. Whatsoever it was the first full dissasemble of this particular engine. The reason for it was the piston knock (appeared to be the broken skirt). Previously it had two timing jobs; one turbo replaced (warranty job) and one repaired, one inlet cam replaced and one as part of this job (both because hight pressure fuel pump lobe wear). The bucket was weared few times and that started the process of lobe destruction. Yes there was wear on the cylinder walls but not a catastrophic one. Of corse there was the scratches out of iron bits falling from the wearing cam lobe. Of corse the cylinder head first cam seat and all caps were torn down. Of corse there was wear and scratches on crankshaft bearings but virtually none on crank itself. And still if there would be no piston scirt broken this engine would keep going. And it goes after the set of new oem standart pistons, resurfaced head, new inlet cam. Now I know that the kind of repair I described is wrong. Virtually none machine job done, old head, old oil pump, even old crank bearings. Owner insisted. And still this engine runs perfectly (not a single knock). Now it’s about 30k km after repair. Few words on it’s lifetime sevice. Oem oil and air filter. Oil (Ford-Castrol 5W20 WSS-M2C948-B) every 10-12k km. And few words on vehicle usage 40/60 percent city/highway driving. Sometimes heavy loaded.
13:32 - Are the cam gears.... oblong? I swear the gear looks like a bent wheel spinning around. If you look closely while it's spinning, you can see the belt shifting up and down. There's no way that's normal... right?
I was so close to getting one of this in 2017-2018… so glad I didn’t, one of the arguments against the Fiesta was the short armrest 😅. So glad I’m so picky.
i work at a ford dealership as a storekeeper , we use 5w20 or 0w20 oil with C948 approval , it's very rare to see an ecoboost for a major issue , the timing belt is expensive to change ( 2.5k€ ) but it's not as bad a we can read in the internet.
Used to have a Fusion with a 1.6L EcoBoost engine, made like 160HP. Also got an AWD EcoSport at the same time with the 2.0L NA engine. Also makes around 160HP. No idea why Ford was offering the NA engine when they do have an EcoBoost in the same class, but it sounds like it was a good thing in this case.
Wet belts : horrible idea
Ford : let's do two of them
GM and Peugeot/Citroën (before Stellantis) had the same horrible idea (at least in Brazil)
They've made Diesel transits with belts now too. Imagine thinking a wet belt on a commerical Diesel engine is a good idea.
I wonder how long their bi-turbos will last 😂
Chevy trax uses 1.2L 3 cylinder wet belt now too.
@@justfinley1 Another throw away engine, I bet belt replacement is a complex engine out and half the engine apart job. The 1.0 Ecoboost in this video costs £1000 in the UK for a belt change, just for reference a normal cambelt is £300-£500 for replacement. A decent DIY enthusuiast can change most Cambelts too so it's even cheaper for them but no DIY home part time mechanic can change a wet belt.
Your channel really helps me remember why I'm still driving my 1998 Honda Civic with 350k miles on it
Same for me and my 386k '84 Mercedes 300TD.
You can’t afford anything newer, that’s why
@@CollinMac96 you must be fun at parties...
Just about ran in then ? Some cars are great cars to own when they run forever , who cares about modern tech we don't need or asked for , I've kept my 2001 SLK , never plays up had it 15 years with 105k on her ....
@@CollinMac96 , you missed the point that some people don't want "newer" vehicles either because newer doesn't always equate to "better." In fact it often goes the other way. A lot of newer vehicles are made with substandard materials/implementations of those materials. Plastic oil pans that routinely leak/crack, plastic fuel lines routed near hot exhaust components creating spontaneous engine fires, "internal water pumps" which upon failing whether known/unknown to the owner may begin dumping coolant into the oil pan, valvetrain components which randomly fail within 50,000 to 150,000 miles causing the camshafts to be shredded. These are NOT "improvements in design", they're CHEAP methods of cost-cutting for manufacturers as well as often nonsense attempts at "satisfying EPA regulations." I was no fan of the introduction of "push-button start" vehicles requiring that the key FOB only be within some proximity to the vehicle and you could start the vehicle and drive away for some distance before it "lost contact with the transmitter".... What an easy "steal" for not only the thief/joyrider but the "repo-man" who could quietly walk into your yard, start your car and drive it down the street to his tow truck.
Beyond that is the ridiculous "saving you a little gas and reducing emissions!!!", "auto-stop/start" nonsense where your vehicle will shut off the engine at every stop, then restart the engine upon releasing the brake/depressing the accelerator. I question the validity of their claims because not only does this create excessive wear/tear on the starter motor but physics tells me that constantly stopping and restarting a rotating mass wastes more energy than that mass rotating at "idle" for a specified amount of time. Most "stopping" is for just a few seconds, at most about ~3 minutes, at least that's the supposed timer limit on "traffic lights." Some lights are programmed to change within 1-30 seconds of the "loop" being tripped under the street. It's not always about "what can people afford", as a "newer POS" is just as a much a "POS" as an "old one."
At 120,000 miles it's survived extremely well. I've seen a couple of those here in the UK with less than 60,000 miles on them that have been completely destroyed.
Also you have more manual transmission cats than us Americans.
Thats not the point. Cars should be reliable. not E-waste
Indeed you might be lucky to get this in Kilometers a specially if one follows the recommended oil change schedule 🤦
@@WilliamHollinger2019 Americans have more manual transmission dogs, so we'll take W on that one.
I visited my local machine shop a couple of years ago and they had a row of these motors on the floor. Some driven under 100 000 kms were about to get a third set of pistons and valves. I thought it insane but they made good money rebuilding them
I’ll say it again, inexpensive cars need to not only be reliable, but they need to tolerate neglect and still be reliable. Turbos, direct injection, timing belts wet or dry, CVTs, among other things require additional attention that owners of basic transportation may not be prepared to address from a financial perspective. Some of these are lucky to get regular oil changes.
The days of cavaliers and escorts are over, now poor people have a turbo, and wet belts to pay for, with dinky grenade engines.
We need dual vvt, but the rest of this schmutz is just asking for trouble.
Your right, how many everyday car drivers have the ability and/or knowledge to check let alone service these engines?
Every dollar spent to gain efficiency adds complexity. People with a budget car do not need turbos, direct injection, CVTs, etc. They need a port-injection NA Volvo 240 that doesn't get class-leading fuel economy but is reliable for 2+ decades.
That's why I've always been a fan of the (previously produced) Mitsubishi Mirage manual transmission base model. No turbo, tiny engine, manual transmission, timing chain, and plenty of space to work on things. It was the last economy car that got the point of being an economy car. People like to bash on the Mirage because it's small and slow and cheap but it is damn near indestructible and inexpensive to maintain.
Turbo testing with compressed air and hammer testing for adjustable connecting roads are clearly scientific methods of inspection. SCIENCE!!
Could've sprayed some oil into turbo shaft bearing
Shooting compressed air in the turbine housing is how we high speed core balance EcoBoost turbos. Of course that is in a million dollar machine, and we do supply pressurized oil when we are doing it….
"connecting roads"??? a map issue?
Very scientific
The slit in the block is to improve water flow to aid cooling of the head gasket. One of the common failure modes of early eco-boost engines was overheating of the head gasket at the cylinder junction leading to premature failure. The fundamental problem though is that the cylinders are too close together.
If ford absolutely had to have a short crank they could have went similar to vw vr5/vr6 design with a vr3. these provide a lot of room around the top of the cylinders for cooling. sadly they are all SOHC.
@@martin-vv9lf Yeah as if Ford would ever build something in the same league as VW VR engine. VW mostly make decent engines and their 1.9 diesel units were some of the best Diesels to ever exist. Modern Fords are the most unreliable cars going.
I had a 2015 focus with this engine. I got it for 8000 with 57k miles and drove until 90k. That thing with the little 6 speed manual was really fun, and still could get 40+ mpg going 70+ mph down the highway. Sounded pretty good too. The only issue I had, and the one that made me get rid of it, was when asemi blew a tire in front of me and I couldn't swerve out of the way and ran over the shredded tire. Must've jerked the car a certain way, but it blew the head gasket. It was just burning coolant, not mixing in the oil, so that was a plus. I had to dry off the spark plugs every day or else it wouldn't start. Luckily, the car market went crazy and I got 7500 when I sold it😂 only $500 difference
@@samoliver3242 Thank god you saw the warning signs if a semi blowout can fuck your engine imagine how little changes could screw it. Thing is back in 2019 I got a 1.2 Tubro Toyota Auris for £9500 with 40k miles and zero issues. In 2024 I still have had zero issues on 84k miles.
@@gravemind6536 fr. In the end, they just wanted to replace the engine cause "they didn't know if the head was warped," which I guess is fair, but it was never overheated. Was going to cost the same as the cars worth.
Eric, Nobody ever grows up, nor does our need to play with turbos go away
As one progresses through life, try your best to ensure there isn't excessive shaft play, this helps minimize wear and potential damage to your components...
What is wrong with playing around? To serious makes this showing of Eric boring 😊. Eric, just continuing the playing 😂
@@mhtate3626 I tried to get my ex to appreciate "excessive shaft play" but it just made her mad 🤣
Women grow up.
@@Zorbino88 I was thought Americans (I assume you are one) don't have shafts. It was cut away,😂🤣🤣
i work at a ford dealer and the amount of 1L engines i replace a month is absurd, but when i was in quick lane we never had the “right” oil for them so we just used regular 5w20
the belt in oil need specific oils, only with the Ford Ford standard 5w20 WSS-M2C948-B is allowed...
What about the 2.3 liter ecoboost? Have you had to replace a lot of them too? I've got 93k hard but we'll maintained Miles in my 2.3
@@leneanderthalien It's not just Ford. PSA Group did the same (Peugeot, Citroen, ...). Now there are lawsuits against them in France. And yes, there is a recommended oil, and no, that still doesn't save the belt. Family memeber works at a partner service told a lot of stories, and also friends had issues with their car LESS than 100k km, all service done at Peugeot.
In Europe castrol sell 5w-30 E
They don't sell this in US?
@@jamesjl334 2.3 ecoboost is also a wet belt engine, but is a kevlar belt and has far less problem
The milkshake brought this engine to the yard
It brings all the Boosts to the yard
yep, but i don't get the events timeline. i would think the oil pump wasn't that bad so it overheated, so then the gasket fails, then you get the milkshake...
Pina Colada😰🎉🎊
Must have been McDonalds.
And they're like, it's blown up like yours.
My friend took an 80’s air pump (pollution reducer) of a car and made it into a supercharger for a go cart ! It worked !
At 120k miles, Ford would call that a win. 😵💫
120K, pretty good for a lawn mower engine.
In Brazil these wet timing belts engines from Ford, GM and Peugeot barely get 60k miles without serious problems and very high repair bills 😂😂
My friend some day rented a Ford Ka with 1 liter 3cyl N/A and the engine knocked with just 25k miles in the middle of nowhere...
@@yano.moraes1492 I bet the more common use of ethanol in Brazil has more detrimental effects on the belt than regular gas.
@@25aspooner Yes. Very common use of ethanol basically everyday for years and wrong engine oil (Ford uses a specific 5w20 WSS-M2C960-A1 and the average Joe who drives these shitboxes working on Uber doesn't care...)
actually ford would call that a travesty and go back to the drawing board to try to make the engine more likely to fail around the 36001 mile mark as intended
Slits in the block is usualy an aftertought. My friend took part of the development of the first generation audi R8 V8 engine and they had a problem with the cylinder walls melting where was no coolant and they introduced two 1 mm holes drilled in an X patern between the cylinders to solve the problem. He told me also that the volvo I5 turbo had the same problem at the time and it has a very thin gap already in the 2.5 liter engine and they still had to split it. This is why if you look at it you think why would someone design something like that? The answer they didn"t. They fixed the problem when the production was already started.
And the Volvos love to crack the block right up at those narrow bits. Not a great design
This is the most important comment here I feel.
Obvious after machining that should've been solved well before it got to that stage. Hard edges from a saw cut vibrating against a headgasket is never going to work well. HG surface mating orifices are almost always rounded that I've seen, for good reason.
@@YZJB and that's why we use the 2.4L blocks.
@@YZJB Mostly when you drive software, but the Volvo I5's also did run more power. The one in the ST is also known to fail but only if driven like crap (floored cold and not driven cold at all), then you also might get cracks. Far as I know, the highest mileage ST in my circle has like 240k km on it and they only did bearings once as precaution. They can hold if driven properly. My ST has 180k on the clock and won't loose any coolant nor burn any. But with the next belt exchange the engine gets modded.
You help me learn so much, I really want to get into this kind of work. I'm an apprentice mechanic and I love watching your videos on my break or after work. Thank you
Before I started watching I Do Cars, I didn't even know what a cam tower or combustion palace was.
We all started without knowing the taste of piston mcnuggets. Eric will help ya get where you want to be. He sells a good engine too- my Camaro is still happy a year later.
Same. I learned everything from this channel, but I lost my job when I launched a lady's water pump into orbit with a civil war cannon. I really don't know why they were so angry considering that is standard operating procedure?
A break after work? That sounds not good. A break is in between working hours.... You have a 24 hour work day?
You won't be able to do it for long as everything in twenty years will be electric.
The slot between the cylinders was to allow coolant to flow from 1 side of the block to the other. In doing so, the space in between the cylinder does not have enough "meat" and the gasket inevitably fails due to the high heat and pressure inside the engine. This is well documented on the internet. That- together with the wet oil belt dooms the engine. This is a tiny engine that was asked to do too much.
How often I find myself smiling and shaking my head at these horribly awesome jokes and references. Thanks Eric for taking your time to entertain us.
Cheers Eric, here in the UK my ecoboost focus made it all the way to 38k before the engine man light came on. Garage really good in saying they didn't think it was with trying to fix it as they couldn't source replacement engine due to the number of failures. A year later Ford kind of recognised they have issues, but the level of proof of good care is pretty high to get warranty, and to late for me, car was long gone.
My friend had one of these fail in her EcoSport recently. Oil pump belt issue, all the teeth ripped off the belt. All of her oil changes have been at the dealership. She'd tried to get the recall for that issue handled three times before it failed, Ford kept saying they didn't have the part. After a month in the dealership, they ended up only replacing parts of the engine, not the whole thing. It didn't seize, but it ran for a while with no working oil pump. So that's concerning. And I'm still not sure they installed the updated parts required by the recall. Thankfully my friend had bought the extended warranty from Ford, so she's got about another 30k miles before that runs out. I told her she needs to sell that vehicle sooner than later.
Ford has a TSB out for the 1.0L belt failure. it states to check the actual oil pressure with a manual gauge. If it reads 0psi at idle then the engine needs to be replaced.
Ford won't have updated parts (belt and tensioner) available to properly fix the issue until 1Q 2025. Until then the interim repair for the recall is to replace the long block (more or less the entire engine) with the existing design. Then once the updated parts are available the car has to come back to the dealer to have them installed.
@@nickloh912 good to know, I'll pass that along. I'm also trying to get her to show me a copy of the service report so I can see what they replaced. She read it to me verbally at one point, and I don't remember the long block being listed. But I could be remembering incorrectly.
Has anyone come up with an aftermarket kit to convert it to a chain driven oil pump?
You're friend should see if she can be apart of the lawsuit. Or grab enough folks affected and bring one to Ford while the class action happening. More leverage @@gregorymalchuk272
I could've gone my whole life not knowing what a Ford Ecosport was. Now there's a spot in my brain dedicated to the knowledge of that vehicle. Thanks.
It's a hideous jacked up Fiesta, get inside a Focus more space all round yet the thing is more efficent and faster and more powerful. This is why I hate crossovers they suck.
That part of your brain will help you never make that mistake
@@gravemind6536 I read Car & Driver's review and they tore it apart in the first paragraph. Made me realize why I've never heard of them. Ford could've just kept the Focus and Fiesta and they wouldn't get so much hate.
Thanks to Brazil :-)
I'm almost jealous that you had lived up to that point without knowing about the Ecosport. It's just not good
I chuckled at the one handed crank removal... but I 100% thought you were gonna go get the fork lift
I'm not interested in engines or mechanics yet I keep watching your videos. What is wrong with me and what is your magic that keeps me watching? I've probably seen about half your videos. Thanks, I think.
My aunt and uncle had an EcoSport with one of these until about the seventh or eighth time it was in the shop under warranty before they finally got rid of it. Had less than 30k miles on it. I swear it spent more time there than it did in their possession.
Did they just keep replacing the engine?
@@piggy310 If memory serves, it had two engine replacements and the rest were related to the wet belt or the one time is started to get a little warm and they shut it off before it overheated and it needed a new head gasket.
@@Shiny_Dragonite 7 or 8X in 30,000 mi they were probably ready to let it roll off a cliff
Oh they definitely were. It's not like they could be short a vehicle either. I never heard the story on how they got rid of it, but they certainly did after the second engine replacement.
Sounds like a Cybertruck lol
I work at a ford dealer. I lost track of how many 4 cylinder and 3 cylinder ecoboosts I have done so far. At 24:39, you can see the carbon deposits between the cylinders on the head gasket. Coolant sneaks into the saw cuts of the coolant jackets. Those cylinders distort in relation to the short block. It would show if you put a straight edge on the deck surface of the short block. I just wonder why the 2.7, 3.0, and 3.5 ecoboost don’t have these issues and still use the same open deck short block design?
Don’t these engines run really high boost compared to the other ecoboost engines?
Have one in our dealer (2018 EcoSport with 86,000 miles) ive been waiting two months (most other dealers report up to 6+ months) for a high pressure fuel pump so i can install the new long block (this will be the third engine in the car)
change the car man
I work at ford doing tear downs and engine replacements… finding a lot of coolant intrusion on the 1.0 due to the exhaust manifold port having cracks in them. Causing coolant to leak in the cylinders and the exhaust systems. If no signs of failed head gasket or a failed short block
Interesting!
The number of points of failure Ford can put in an engine is very impressive!
Speculating that's what happened here, because there was no damage to the bearings/journals. The car probably turned into a smoke bomb (steam bomb?) and the owner got it into the shop quick. Had it only failed leaking into the oil, owner may not have noticed until more internal damage was done.
@@jaimecholula3 That wouldn't explain the milkshake oil though, would it? It would just blow steam out the exhaust, but I can't see it mixing with the oil.
My 1.6 ecoboost cracked between the sparkplug and injector ports. Unfortunately I didn't look into the coolant loss quickly enough, just topped up the coolant over a period of 4 to 6 weeks until I decided to do an investigation at which point oil dilution had already occurred. The damage to the cylinder walls and journals meant there was no saving it .
Stay focused man ,stay focused, looks like Ford failed to focus on the Focus
Thanks Eric, it truly boggles the mind why a company would go to all the trouble of building such a complex machine, then plant an absolute time bomb at its heart, instead of spending literally an extra $200 (if that...) to make it reliable.
Probably $5 or $10.
"Why would you do it this way, Ford?"
Do you have any idea how many times I've asked that in my life?
@@leeselset5751
Why doesn’t Ford manufacture their Automobiles like they manufacture their Trucks? I purchased new in 2002. A Ford F-350 super duty truck. It has the Power Stroke 7.3 liter diesel engine. Other than normal maintenance. I’ve only ever had to replace 1 brake line that rusted and 3 cam sensing position modules. I get an average of 22 miles per gallon at 70 miles per hour. If I set the cruise control to 75 MPH or higher. The miles per gallon drops to 15 miles per gallon. I don’t understand why my truck’s fuel consumption drops so much. This of course depends on the speed limit and the flow of traffic. I’m not one of those people that will go 70 mph when the flow of traffic is averaging 75 mph. I stay within what most everyone else’s speed is going. I NEVER OBSTRUCT THE FLOW OF TRAFFIC. It pisses me off when people are going 70 mph. When the flow of traffic is averaging 75 miles per hour. I never get road rage,it isn’t worth the aggravation.
I always yield to semi trucks. When I was pulling my
35’ camper. I was very surprised at how many semi truck drivers would allow me the space to change lanes when I would turn the blinker on . Before I was pulling the
35’ camper. I would rarely allow room for a semi truck driver to change lanes. When I was pulling my 35’ camper. I noticed how most people driving automobiles and light duty pickup trucks. Would intentionally not allow a semi truck to change lanes. By intentionally speeding up to not allowing the space for a semi truck to change lanes. After I saw how semi truck drivers would almost always allow me the space to change lanes. This gave me a lot of respect for semi truck drivers and all the crap they deal with on any 4 lane or more highway or Interstate highway . I now will always allow the space for semi trucks to change lanes. I flash my vehicles headlights to let the Semi truck Driver know. I am going to give them the space to change lanes when the semi truck driver puts their semi’s blinker on. The looks I get from many people driving automobiles and light duty trucks is amazing. Many give me the middle finger and some will brake check as soon as they get around me. I just smile and wave. So try be considerate to semi truck drivers and give them the space to change lanes. Especially if they are staying with the flow of traffic. Remember that these semi truck drivers are the people that move goods around. So when you go shopping. The shelves aren’t empty. Without semi truck drivers. Many of the ordinary things we regularly purchase. Would not regularly be on the shelves at your local grocery or any other store. Something that can be annoying at times. When I give the space for a semi truck driver to change lanes. When the semi truck driver takes sometimes minutes to pass another vehicle. Especially on I-95 in Virginia, when going up the many grades. I give the space for the semi truck driver to move into the lane I am in. Then their semi truck slows down to the point that their semi truck stops overtaking the vehicle they are trying to get past. I believe this is mainly caused by the semi truck has a governor that won’t allow them to exceed 70 mph.i just remain patient,NEVER get road rage and deal with it. Eventually the semi truck will get past the vehicle they are trying to get past so they can change back to the lane they were in. Before the semi truck passed a vehicle going slower than they are.
Anyway DO NOT GET ROAD RAGE. If you do,you may regret it. Many people today carry firearms in their vehicles. Getting road rage with someone that has a firearm in their vehicle. Your road rage gets out of control. You get past the vehicle and start brake checking them. Trying to get the vehicle to pull over. This driver of the vehicle has a firearm. Ends up pulling over. You exit your vehicle and start making threats of great bodily harm. Can lead to something you will regret by your life being extinguished. I’ve a CWP and always carry. No matter what I’m not going to do something I will regret. By allowing some road rage imbecile. Get me to pull off the road and stop on the shoulder of the road. Like I previously wrote. I just wave,smile and many times put my arms in the air. Signaling that I’m sorry. This has worked every single time. One thing that does get under my skin. When someone cuts me off then gives me their middle finger. I still just smile and wave. Bring non confrontational will always end in your favor. The last thing you want to happen. Is get arrested and spend the night in jail. For something that is easily avoided.
I always say Ford is the master of making things that look easy to work on
@@chasebh89I don’t like Ford, actually I find Europe cars more enjoyable to work on. It just comes naturally for me
@@mdlanor5414 that's not a Ford engine, it's from International
Why would you do it this way ford?
So i started driving chevys.
What were you thinking GM?
Tried to drive a dodge instead, but it wouldnt go into gear.
That groove allowed coolant to flow across the head, constant failures of the headgasket as a result. The redesign they drilled holes into a channel so the headgasket had a full flat metal mating surface. Ford has an "upgraded" head gasket for those engines, still have a high failure rate.
As a Hyundai dealer tech, I just have one thing to say to the Ford techs out there...tag, you're it.
😂
Dang wow funny this is
? 2016 accent engine looping with AC on but goes away with AC off compressor is New.
As a Lexus technician, must be fun to play tag
Ya we are going to be busy in a few years, 2.7 v6, 3.0 v6, 1.5 I3, and 5.0 in the f150s all have wet belt driving oil pumps. Ford saw these nightmares and decided to start putting them in all their cars
I owned one of these vehicles, a 2017 Focus SE 1.0L. I didn't keep it very long or put many miles on it. It served me well. Glad it's gone.
Thanks for the turbo spin up, I was hoping you would!
Oh yea same
I too am here for the spool up.
what a simple creature.
Great video Eric! Just a thought for you, which I'm sure others have shared with you, but you could take a straight edge of some kind and set it on the head or block, and if you can see light under any parts along the edge, it is warped. I would like to see that in an upcoming video sometime! Otherwise I love your channel, and always get excited when I see that you posted a video! Thanks! Frank
Growing old is mandatory, growing up is always optional.
Donald Trump proves that one...
@@Flies2FLL Good! At least he's not a mindless troll with blood on his hands like biden the loser!
@@Flies2FLL muuu
It amazes me that these little engines produce power, with boost, and some folk think they’ll last doing that. Some of them I’ve seen you take apart are so complex, and numerous one-time use items, cam bearings that can’t be replaced for instance, that it seems they really aren’t economical to rebuild.
It's possible to do it but very few are doing it right. My Toyota has a 1.2 turbo petrol unit with direct injection unit, in 8 years and 84k miles it's had no issues and I haven't seen anyone reporting any issues with the engine. Sadly Toyota stopped making the engine because people were more interested in their hybrid drivetrains but it's a very good modern turbo petrol unit. VAG have also made these sorts of engines with only minor issues compared to the Ford and PSA units, VAG modern turbo engines mostly only suffer from timing chain issues which if treated early are put right before damage is done they just have the chain rattle warning.
They would last just fine if they weren't made with numerous major flaws.
That open deck cylinder wall cooling is what killed that engine ! Its hell on head gasgets !
The earlier ones especially had head gasket issues and then not long after the wet belt issues came to light too. Shocking engine all round.
Remember when GM tried an open deck design on their fuel pincher diesel engine? That, too, was a complete disaster. 😂
@@TheBigdog868 What engine was that specifically? Honestly how you can fuck a Diesel engine I don't know they're so simple and VW, Mercedes and even Renault, peugoet and Fiat never fucked them up. I guess small Diesels aren't Americas thing so perhaps they suck at making them. German diesels pre 2008 have the same sort of reliability as Toyota and Honda engines.
Hey Eric, Sunday mornings aren't the same without one of your videos to watch. I hope all is well with you and the family.
Ford was actually sort of close to making a great engine, if not for that stupid wet belt. I had a 2015 focus 1.0 ecoboost manual. Drove nice, and would knock down 43-45 mpg pretty consistently. Enough power for driving to work. I put 40k trouble free miles on it. Found pieces of timing belt at 80k during an oil change and traded it for a 2008 mazda3 that now has 200k on it without ever being opened.
Mazda3 engines are bulletproof. Ford themselves still use the engine co-developed with Mazda in their hybrids. Quite different from the EcoBoost junk.
@@solderbuff Skyactiv has had some issues with porous metal in the heads in a couple years of production, and I believe some heat treating issues with part of the early transmissions (fixed at some point in 2013) but that's really about it. I'm at 209K miles on my '13 Mazda 3 and I've put less than 1000$ into repairs in it (excepting the usual things like oil changes, battery, headlights). The manual mode has let me spend 0$ on brakes so far by letting me engine brake.
@@big0bad0brad , I have a 2010 Mazda 3 (non-Skyactiv). It burns whole a lot of oil, but likely due to poor maintenance by the previous owners. I love the car anyway ❤️ Considering upgrading to a Ford Escape hybrid as I already know the engine.
@@big0bad0brad 'spend 0$ on brakes so far'!!!!! Think that 0$ is in any way comparable to the $$$ on earlier engine & transmission spending?
watch the 1.5L 3 cylinder ecoboost.
It is chain driven.
Its one of the best modern engines.
En 1L Ecoboost, bigger, better pistons, bigger turbo, chain driven, 200 hp and 290 Nm of torque.
I have a 2015 Fiesta "SFE" which came with only the 1.0 & 5 spd. Fun little go-cart with good power for the size. But yeah, i recently had the wet belts replaced at ~145k (Ford recommends 150k replacement).
I had a local shop do the replacement and it was quite the project. Ford quoted me 6k for the work. They truly are making disposable cars.
I figured $2000 would change the belt.
$1000 on Honda Odyssey dry belt. Includes water pump n tensioners.
Mine is at 120kmiles, I run the car HARD, and still have had no issue. But am getting ready to to replace it myself as I figure iv already far surpassed everyone else in luck
@@mikonrad. If that 6k quote was in U.S. dollars Ford should pay.
Stupid should hurt. Not your customers but YOU.
It was stupid to not use a chain. With good oil the chain should never give trouble.
@@chiiandme1 As long as you're running good oil and diligent with oil changes, it should be fine, even when running hard. I don't have a garage and didn't have the tooling for the repair, parts were difficult to source as well so I had to vet several shops - was even turned away from one of my local shops; didn't want to touch it. I think these timing jobs/1.0 Ecoboosts are much more common in the UK so they don't have same mechanic or availability issues.
Whoever does the timing belt, make sure you get that oil pump belt changed too (requires dropping the oil pan) and also make absolutely sure you have a clean oil pick-up - remove and clean it if you're in doubt.
@@dannybryant6873 it was still a recent motor when I got it and there really wasn't too much negative about it though I had to rely on the UK forums and mechanics about it because there was hardly anything about the 1.0 in the US at the time I bought it (2019).
Considering how sensitive the belts are to incorrect or older oil, and their propensity of destroying multiple engine systems when they deteriorate, it is pretty incredible the short-sightedness of Ford. The engine is great in theory but it appears Ford didn't plan on real world use and wear/tear.
God I miss my early 2000s Toyota Camry.. I should have kept it, insanely well engineered.
I had a 98 camry, burned half a quart every 3-4k. Still can confirm it's still on the road, I was young and fucked up letting it go. Sold it at 158k spotless and still running and shifting so smooth. It's currently in flordia that has 280k still on original engine parts... And my God the frames on thoes even in Illinois salt belt held up great. I did always wash it every week when I was young had time. Man I miss that car full tank of gas could easily go 400 miles 27-35 mpg. Oh and to this day had the COLDEST damn ac ever never experienced anything like it yet. Big thick metal body not like the super paper thin shit they use now
@@jmabs5096 oh yeah those fourth-generation Camrys were the best. Today that would be called a Lexus.
@@jmabs5096you have to change the PCV valve.
I have a 2004, and I couldn’t agree more. Mine has 136k and has always been garaged.
my 04 hyandai elantra is a cockroach, just wont die - 375kms and still chugging along
Hello,
I live in the Netherlands and work with these engines every day. we see few problems with it. Change the oil regularly every 20 km. Ford made a mistake by installing the cooling channel between the cylinder walls, but the 1.5 liter also has that. The head gasket can't handle that. There is a modification in which a channel runs at an angle of 20 or 30 degrees from top to bottom. And according to Ford it is not necessary to replace the oil pump belt. We do this and at a lower mileage. 200dkm
Every 20 Kms 🤔
@@alangordon3283that’s how you keep the oil really fresh
20,000 km? Really? I’d change the synthetic oil at 5000 miles 7200 km.
@@alangordon3283 Must be
When you were a kid, you thought about putting a hair dryer onto a Briggs and Stratton to make it a turbo-mower, didn't you? Didn't everyone?
Mine was a vacuum cleaner hooked up with a belt to the PTO.
I agree with previous comments. Removing the crank shaft with the fork lift would have been comedy gold!
Are the camshaft gears no perfectly round? When he’s turning it over you can see the belt lift and then fall
I noticed that too, could be the center bore was off center in production. Keeps the timing belt tensioner busy.
I know the coyote and the eco boost cam phasers aren’t perfectly round so maybe it’s a ford thing
I had to stop and rewind i thought it was me. Yes they look wrong. I dint see it being manufactured off center. I feel their is an issue with either the pulleys or if it was the thickness of the belt maybe.
I saw that too. Since it's only a few degrees or rotation it's not an off center or bent issue as it would rise and fall once per revolution. I can't figure it out. However imagine that at 5000 rpm. It seems terribly wrong.
Maybe the milkshake doesn't allow the timing belt teeth to smoothly slip down into each individual groove in the timing cogs....so occasionally an individual tooth could ride a little higher before slipping down into the valley?
The meshing would be enhanced by the correct oil viscosity being applied at he cog/tooth interface?
The one thing that frustrated me alot when i use to work at ford was these 61s was that (at the time i was there, i'm sure they changed it now) there was no change interval for the oil pump belt, like it just wasn't in any of the recommended mileage intervals anywhere, and when you try to get a customer to change something that's not on it or your overhead doesn't care and wants to push cars as fast as possible, customers never went for it as it was i think another 1.5 hours, The other issue is when you went into the parts department, they had the nice red jugs with Ford oils you can buy, but when the oil changes was being done in the shop, we just had the 55 gallon barrels that sometimes said valvoline, phillips 66, shell ECT... what ever was cheapest that day i guess and that's what was put in your car, we never had "Ford" oil going in customers cars that i ever saw. Now what i'm about to say next is well alot to do with maintenance, and it shows, i'm not a ford fan, the triton years did me in and the Ecofarts to me was just as bad, but i knew/know a few people with the 61ci that is still going strong today, one manual version with over 300K, but both belts and belt tensioners are being replaced every 100K, not much i can say about the tensioners in general as when they would come in, ford was all over the customer that you need a new engine or trade it in, so never had time to play with one or had a customer wanting to rebuild one.
Also i've always wondered if someone tig welded the center part of the slits between the cylinders but leave the small holes on both sides open and machined it flat, no one i ever worked with/Ford could ever tell me why they did that and other engines with the same layout didn't and was just fine.
Very informative, I didn't see where the oil/coolant breakdown occurred. It's really interesting to see you take apart an engine where you need the parts. Most, probably, but this one in particular.
@22:30
You said "only" 121k miles, but honestly that's a pretty fucking good performance out of this garbage. Many don't reach 80k. 100k is lucky. 121k is like winning the lottery.
As always Eric, thank you for my Saturday night entertainment. Have a great weekend.
I live in Europe, and I drive a car with the Stellantis NA 3-cylinder 1.2 "Puretech" EB2F. That engine has a wet timing belt, which is notorious for failing, to the point where there might also be a class-action lawsuit brewing in France. The oil pump is driven by a chain, though.
Because of the wet timing belt, it requires a very specific oil, which is formulated to neutralize the effects of gasoline that might mix into the oil. That's unfortunate in that engine because apparently the rings tend to gum up more than expected and allow quite some blow-by when cold. The recommended oil change interval is 15000 km (about 10000 miles), but the manual recommends more frequent intervals for severe usage, and the definition of severe usage includes city driving, which is a likely scenario for a lot of the cars where that engine is installed.
Stellantis made several mistakes in my opinion: they should have specified a shorter oil change interval for all scenarios, they did not mention any specific number of starts that the oil can handle, and they did not equip the car with an oil life monitor.
Stellantis has reduced the service interval on the belt, now 100000 km (600000 miles), and they've also changed its chemical makeup. Mostly, they've redesigned that part of the engine and newer models have a timing chain instead of the belt.
The belt can start to swell before it has any visible damage; when there's any visible damage, it's a very bad sign. There's a tool to measure whether the belt has swollen, by checking its width, which can increase as the belt loses structural integrity, and that width can be checked through the oil filler cap. As part of the belt service, the oil pickup has to be checked for signs of debris. If it has debris, the oil pump needs to be changed, and the solenoids then also need to be checked and changed as necessary.
I bought the car used, it has service records showing that its oil changes were done every 15000 km by the original owner, but I don't know in which conditions it was driven. I have the oil changed every 7500 km. I had the belt service done a few months ago. Since that involves removig the oil pan, timing cover, and valve cover, I used the opportunity to have them replace the water pump as well. Apparently my belt was in excellent condition, and, with no debris in the oil pickup, there was no need for any further inspections. Hopefully the engine will last.
Sell it ASAP😅
Well, since you've changed the belt and have been vigilant about oil, it will probably be fine if you keep taking care of it. From what I've read, the 1.2 Puretech is not as problematic as Ford's EcoBum.
Stellantis... Puah. Once there were FIAT engines. You can say anything about FIAT, but they knew how to do good engines. Think about the Fire ones or the Miltiair on the Giulia and Giulietta (and 500 Abarth). No, they are not putting those French c_r_a_p also in Jeep...
Why would you ever buy that garbage in the first place?
@@1marcelfilms - it's a long story. I was in the middle of moving, I needed to buy a car that I could drive off the lot, I was limited to a small number of dealerships, and that was the best option available. I won't keep it forever, I have a new car ordered already.
Water cooled timing belt... don't give Ford any more damned ideas. Edit: Why do I have an overwhelming compulsion to go to Dairy Queen?
OIL cooled timing belt. Its for smooth running and economy/ecology...
water cooled? no: the belt is in OIL!!!
@@leneanderthalienThat was a joke he made. The mix of oil and coolant make it somehow of water cooled belt. In the past Ford had a 1.6 diesel based on a Peugeot design with a wet belt. One could buy a chain conversion for that.
@@DrDre-ir4guThey didn't use a wetbelt on that 1.6 PSA engine it was the 1.8 tdci that was a ford engine not based on Peugeot they originally came with chains so it's not as much work to provide a conversion kit from wet belt back to chains again
@@sbrader97 yeah, you’re right, I used to own a 1.8 TDDi that had a dry belt before Ford switched to a wet belt version.
Back in the sixties, I had a 1952 Jaguar XK-120. The twin cam engine it had was a piece of art. Every bottom end nut and bolt was safety wired to hold that beast together. I would be willing to say that your tiny Ford engine is way more complicated than the one in my Jaguar. Back then, when you opened the hood, you actually could see a magnificent engine. That Ford is a plastic joke.
Always the Saturday highlight. Thank you for doing these teardowns.
If I recall. Ford added the cut to try and keep the area between the bores from cracking by adding coolant flow. I'm wondering if the milkshake came from the stud that holds the filter and housing being loose? Looking at the belt tensioner you took off. You can see it has started spinning the pin in that stamped plate. I'd theorize that they keep pressure on that weak point until it works loose as the belt slaps against it. I'd also speculate that people who drive hard have a problem with that part sooner then people who don't.
“All the milkshake brings the eco boosts to the yard”
Wild hearing the spool of a small turbo like that without the clattering valve train etc. Thanks for doing it, screw the haters man there's enough oil film in there for a brief cold run lol.
My 2.0 gen 1 ecoboost failed at 68k miles. Torched a coolant runner in the integrated exhaust manifold.
Changing the valve cover gaskets looks like a massive chore considering eveything directly on top of the valve cover XD
the wall between two cylinders is the hottest part of the block. They put the slit there to control temperature and cylinder shape. If you have coolant all around the cylinder it tends to stay round.
Cause 120hp puts so much heat and stress to those cylinders lol
@@kennykennedy6298 Out of 61 cubic inches, yeah that's quite a bit of heat. Right at two HP per C/I. My diesel only does one HP per C/I at 8 psi boost.
@@kennykennedy6298 bhp per cc genius
@@barto6577what's amazing to me is motorcycles have been making more power, out of 600ccs for a very long time, reliably. It's like everything we've learned about making reliable high performance small displacement engines has been outright ignored by the automotive world. 200hp 1 liter na engines that are very reliable isn't a rare or new thing. And these cars generally have a larger cooling system that can dump the heat more efficiently than bikes do too.
@@KR-hg8be With bikes it's all about RPM. The HP formula is RPM dependant. Torque and HP are equal at right about 5250 RPM, as the RPM goes up so does the HP.
my 2015 ford focus 65 k on the clock has this engine not had any problems with it yet just had a service i will be getting thjis dfone in a few weeks great content eric
My cat gismo was sitting on my lap when you did that with the turbo. You got his attention and he did not run. He says bring in on Eric 😂
Really enjoy watching you take a part an engine and the humorous remarks along the way. Great videos and thank you for posting them.
A wet belt is sketchy and the steam slots are also very poor design. Then, I'd bet the oil cooler failed and dumped water into the oiling system. Did anyone else notice the out-of-roundness of the cam phaser pulleys?
I had this engine fail on me at 87k miles. Carbon buildup was so bad that cylinder two intake valves kissed piston. Valve snapped and embedded itself in piston.
Dry timing belt, gear drive oil pump, get rid of the coolant slits, put keyways on the shafts, and add port injection with the DI would make it a great engine for economy cars.
Agree. I don't know why they do this crap to an engine like this... I get the 5.0 (though I hate it) they state the OP belt holds up better vs gears in high HP circs.... But for an eco commuter like this the mods you put are exactly how this should have been built.
Driving 4 answers had a video recently about it, basically the belts can improve efficency and emissions by a tiny bit due to lower rotating mass and friction when oiled. though they cause the engines to eventually produce more pollution by virtue of blowing up and bring replaced but ford et al don't care about that cause getting it through the euro inspections and epa is all that matters now.
Can’t do that! It might cost an extra $20.
Not really, it cant get sleeved ot machined, and taken apart risks damaging the block and bolt segments
Fords new 7.3 liter Godzilla pushrod V8 is built for easier service. A friend just brought one home and I insisted he let me see the engine. It was so far from the fenders and covered with so much "stuff" that we really could not see how its easier for service. I'd like to see one of that torn down. Thanks Eric.
More and more I miss the simple Toyota 4 cylinders .. no turbocharging nothing just 400,000 me of nothing but oil changes.
The 22R is The best engine ever, in my opinion.
I've had a few of them with well over 250k miles and other than an oil leak or two they gave me no problems. If I could find an early Celica or Hilux that's not rusted into the ground I'd buy it in a heartbeat.
Yup. I'm still driving a 2006 Matrix 4WD with 226,000 miles. 1ZZ-FE.
Ditto the Toyota engines! The fours do as well or better on less gas but I'm now wayyy past the 400,000 mile mark on a V6 (1MZ-FE) Solara. Picked it up at 113,000 miles from a coworker and I have run it up to 654,000 very trouble-free miles. Two biggest issues were a leaking shift solenoid in the transmission (original) valve body.....and, for the engine, the #4 and #6 (adjacent) cylinders showed low compressions. I removed the left head and found the intake valves had carbon buildup preventing complete closure. Cleaned up the carbon, checked the valve clearances (all in spec), and put it back together. Who knows what will make that engine fail....probably a $6 rear main seal if it ever goes bad. This engine is pretty simple, no balance cartridge, gear-driven oil pump, dry timing belt, non-variable valve timing, I use cheap gas (maybe why the carboned intake valves but probably a bad PCV) and I have never had the injectors out....why not just keep this concept for every other passenger car engine?? Maybe it's not quite as fuel-efficient but the good quality/dependability has kept the bigger body of the car out of the landfill/junk yard for 24+ years.
the camary 5 SFE is such a reliable engine my camry will die due to rust it will eventually go to the scrap yard due to rust with a good engine and trans
That timing belt and oil pump belt has a service interval of 10 years or 240.000Km. The recommended oil ist 5W-20 API SN Ford WSS-M2C945-A
One problem with this german engineered 1.0 Ecoboost is oil dillution from short trips or wot driving. The fuel delaminates the belt materials. So of course the oil change interval of 2 years or 30.000Km is way too long. The belt material clogged the oil pickup the oil sieve for the turbo feed and the vacuum pump for the brake booster. These components fail first.
The headgasket issue is a common Ford Ecoboost problem. The groove between the cylinders was meant for improved cooling. These engines run very hot on purpose. A hot engine have lower friction ie lower fuel consumption 3% less to speak in numbers. The normal operating temperature is around 100 degrees celsius.
The updated version of this engine have a timing chain but still a wet belt for the oil pump which has to be replaced every 10 years or 240.000Km also. And these oil pump belts keep on failing. This engine is a big joke to everyone. Stay away from it if you dont plan on having brakedowns with your car and spend lots of dollars to it. There are so many possible failing points with these.
Whoa whoa what, a nearly 15k mile oil change interval? Anyone who did that is stupid, even 10k miles is insane if you understand how broken down oil gets in a hot running, highly stressed small turbo engine. The oils going to be mostly carbon grit and contaminants long before you reach 10k miles.
When you say "The updated version of this engine have a timing chain..", what year did this updated version happen?
@@jonathantaroco around 2019 you can tell if the turbocharger is not in the front anymore and the displacement is 999cc instead the 998cc from the first gen.
I've always heard of but never actually seen any specific oil type needed for these engines. There are oil specs from Ford (WSS-M2C945-A
is what the manual for the Focus this engine came out of says), but these oil specs are simply tied to API/ILSAC specs and the respective viscosity grade, with the aforementioned spec correlating with API SN, ILSAC GF-5, and 5W-20 grade oil.
It's WSS-M2C948-A for Europe but that's a 5W-20 as well. I wonder why they felt the need to just slightly change the oil spec. (Not that that makes them any more reliable)
Ford’s 948-B, 913-D and 950-A specs have wet belt compatibility testing as part of the spec
Make's me proud of my 17 year old Mazda 3 (bought in 07 as an 08 model before the big redesign.) It's been through the ringer, over 100 trips to the mountains and back (no salt thankfully in CA), has had 2 alternator replacements, has had periods of old oil, probably burning oil, the thermostat went out last year but thank goodness the engine didn't blow up. Currently sitting at 238k miles with a clean bill of health earlier this year, all new fluids, and she still starts up like a champ. I changed a headlight in my work parking lot under an LED tower after sundown several hours ago. She's a champ. If it ain't broke, don't fix it. And if you can fix it, keep her on the road. I love my 22 WRX but my 08 Mazda 3 will forever keep me humble
I put 260K on a similar 2004 Mazda 3 5 sp. Finally had to put a fuel pump in the tank at about 240K. ( still working but pressure was dwindling) Other than that still ran perfectly when I traded it in for the wife's MX-5
Ok, I tear these down every day as I work for Ford here in the UK and I have NEVER seen a tensioner on the oil pump!! Of the many oil pumps abs wet belts I have replaced, the oil pump drive belt is floating
That's correct and apparently the redesigned engine now has a chain driven cam but they've retained the floating oil pump wet belt which is known to deteriorate and block the oil strainer in the sump. Bizarre.
Great video. When introduced in 2012 this engine (than won engine of the several times) didn't have a balance shaft or a tensioner on the oil pump belt. It appears Ford's 'improvements' have caused more trouble than they've solved by the sound of things!
I love my 3 cylinder...of course its a kawasaki triple...
Got a Yanmar and a Mitsubishi, both diesel.
Same here. 1.3 liter Yanmar diesel in a John Deere 850 tractor.
Somehow every Japanese and most euro bike companies have figured out how to make reliable 1l and below high performance engines yet it eludes most auto makes with 10 times the engineering budget
Guessing if it's a Kawasaki triple it's also a 2-stroke; KH, H1 or H2.
@@KR-hg8be How reliable would those engines be were they to have to haul a car?
I put 100k on a 15 fiesta 1.0 manual with no issues. Sold it to a friend who eventually had some issues with the car but not the engine. I am religious about on time oil changes at 5k intervals though and that helps.
Great video.
I have a friend who has an ecosport and he's afraid to turn on the air conditioning,
because it sucks to much gas.
I'm not sure why such a small car would use that much gas when the air conditioner is on, but he's a petty pitcher.
Out of boost, that engine is making roughly as much power as a household blender. When I was a kid, my family had an '86 Civic. I'm told that the difference between not having AC at all (when first bought new) vs even having AC installed and turned off was noticeable. Once the AC was on, it really drew a lot of power away. I bet that the Ecoboost loses enough power it has to dip into boost more, which is absolutely terrible for gas mileage.
I can watch these eco boost videos all day, because I own a 2000 Toyota Camry(owned since new) that just runs and runs and runs even in the harsh Canadian winters and surprisingly hot summers. It's boring but hey when you want to go on a 2000 to 3000 kilometer road trip in AC comfort with cruise control etc. that all works perfectly with no repairs needed in 24 years I know what I drive.
I need to follow his workout plan. They way he pulled that crankshaft out with one hand is very impressive. Signed: a guy that will never grow up.
I had a 2016 Ford Focus 1.0L EcoBoost... I went through 3 ECUs in 48,000 miles. Every time I had the ECU fail it would take 7-8 weeks in the shop while waiting on parts from Europe...
Sounds more like a voltage problem?
@@samserious1337 no idea, I traded the car in while it was on the 3rd ecu replacement. And from what I gather by looking up the old vin the problem continued.
Who else is OCD and count how many bolts are used by the various manufacturers to hold down different components?
LOL I get it bro, knowing that my Toyota water pump has like 4 different size bolts gives me OCD
Putting water straight water in with coolant delute the anti electrolysis properties in the coolant which protect the engine from corrosion and it also keeps the water pump from lubrication which coolant has a little lubricate in it so the bushing gets prematurely worn.
Hello, if anyone wants some info: I'm from South America, and these engines with "wet belts" are very common to break. Engines from the 80's and 2000's and cars until 2009 were reliable. Ford even was the king of reliability with the Zetec RoCam engine. Now with the wet belt system, everyone who understand a little condemns these vehicles. And coming from a country with almost no maintenance in cars, this is instant failure. Older vehicles with 4 cylinders even with NO maintenance can still be reliable here. these newer 3 cylinder engines will never last here, specially because they cannot be "rectified". This system is a disaster. even if it was chain driven i bet it wouldnt last more than 130k miles
Seeing that filter thread loose reminds me of a mustang with a 4 cylinder turbo that broke that part and dumped oil all over a track and caused someone to crash.
Likely became loose from an oil change and not checked.
This is why I really like full flow filters instead of spin ons. In my opinion the m50/s50 does it best.
A water-cooled timing belt. Thank you I'm laughing brilliant love your show
Well, i have a 1.0 ecoboost Fiesta from 2017, runs very well, change the wetbelt already at 100K. I keep it because the fuel economy is very good. To be honest all cars who have a thermal engine can have a catastrophic failure at one point if they do not take care of their engines. If you take care of your engine will run well if not will blow up. This is known since this engines hit the market.
14:28 I'll take "Things Eric's Wife has never said to Eric" for $1,000 Alex
My daughter has one of these in a fiesta, it started to suffer oil pressure issues at 60,000 miles, I had read all the stories about the wet belt, so I removed the sump for a look at her oil pickup. It was full of wet belt fibres. As a cheap temporary repair, I cleaned it all out and refitted the sump, clean oil and filter and it’s ran great since,,,the belt still needs changing though before the engine grenades itself. She didn’t have the money to pay a garage, and I didn’t have time to pull it all apart at home. Yes, I know, it’s gonna bite soon…
I would be happy to buy just about any used car over a new one of these
I'm not really interested in anything made after about 2015.
In Europe the big fault with this timing belt is the use of Bioethanol in the gasoline, this will kill the timing belts. We can only buy with 5% or 10% Bioethanol, so buying the 5% and changing oil often will make the timing belts last longer.
Oil pump being a crucial part of an engine and ford used a poor quality belt drive is just sad. They should have used a timing chain
I enjoyed the auto autopsy on this engine which reminds me of the one in my motorcycle. Thanks.
It doesn't feel like it would take too much to convert this to run a couple of duplex chains and tensioners in place of the belts if someone could be bothered. There looks to be plenty of space. It would probably make a little bit more mechanical noise.
The Honda L15b7 engines are having issues similar to this due to head bolts stretching over time
I remember when this engine was added to the choice of engines available for the new at the time Focus. I took one for a spin around the block. It was the most underwhelming test drive I had ever been on, even with the six speed manual transmission. And I've been a Ford dealership tech since 2000, and turning wrenches since 1994 so I've definitely driven more than my share of different vehicles in that time. I remembered commenting to my coworkers on how poor of an idea I thought the so called "wet belt" was. Thank God this engine has been extremely "low take".
lmao I remember driving a 90's Ford Contour automatic for driving instruction. 45mph uphill with the pedal floored engine sounding like it was going to throw a rod. The 1.0L liter focus is a supercar in comparison to that old turd.
Could be worse, at least the cam saddles aren’t part of the valve cover.
I've the same engine in my c-max, nearly 12 years old now and 160k on the clock. It gets just one service a year and never missed a beat and I haven't heard of any horror story here in Europe.
You've been living under a rock and on borrowed time with your engine then.
Those cam sprockets aren't circles... You can see the belt moving when you turn it over...
That’s intentional. Several engines are designed this way
I have a footage of disassembled after 530000km (not kidding with zeros and it’s totally confirmed one oner vehicle) 1.0L Ecoboost out of 2013 Focus (EU), manual trasmission. With this transmission option comes a simple engine oil pump without balance shafts and oil pump belt tensioner.
Whatsoever it was the first full dissasemble of this particular engine. The reason for it was the piston knock (appeared to be the broken skirt). Previously it had two timing jobs; one turbo replaced (warranty job) and one repaired, one inlet cam replaced and one as part of this job (both because hight pressure fuel pump lobe wear). The bucket was weared few times and that started the process of lobe destruction.
Yes there was wear on the cylinder walls but not a catastrophic one. Of corse there was the scratches out of iron bits falling from the wearing cam lobe. Of corse the cylinder head first cam seat and all caps were torn down. Of corse there was wear and scratches on crankshaft bearings but virtually none on crank itself.
And still if there would be no piston scirt broken this engine would keep going. And it goes after the set of new oem standart pistons, resurfaced head, new inlet cam.
Now I know that the kind of repair I described is wrong. Virtually none machine job done, old head, old oil pump, even old crank bearings. Owner insisted. And still this engine runs perfectly (not a single knock). Now it’s about 30k km after repair.
Few words on it’s lifetime sevice. Oem oil and air filter. Oil (Ford-Castrol 5W20 WSS-M2C948-B) every 10-12k km.
And few words on vehicle usage 40/60 percent city/highway driving. Sometimes heavy loaded.
13:32 - Are the cam gears.... oblong? I swear the gear looks like a bent wheel spinning around. If you look closely while it's spinning, you can see the belt shifting up and down. There's no way that's normal... right?
Normal. Many engines are like this - it’s to reduce belt vibrations and reduce the peak loads on the belt.
Really? Wow didn't expect that. Just watched 3x in a row trying to figure out if it's just belt or pullies as well
I was so close to getting one of this in 2017-2018… so glad I didn’t, one of the arguments against the Fiesta was the short armrest 😅. So glad I’m so picky.
Valvoline filter, probably Quik Lube change!
i work at a ford dealership as a storekeeper , we use 5w20 or 0w20 oil with C948 approval , it's very rare to see an ecoboost for a major issue , the timing belt is expensive to change ( 2.5k€ ) but it's not as bad a we can read in the internet.
'' cam craps'' you never disappoint Mr Eric
@@rodneywright2892 I'm waiting for him to say "crap the crap craps"
Used to have a Fusion with a 1.6L EcoBoost engine, made like 160HP. Also got an AWD EcoSport at the same time with the 2.0L NA engine. Also makes around 160HP. No idea why Ford was offering the NA engine when they do have an EcoBoost in the same class, but it sounds like it was a good thing in this case.