Now these things are my specialty. And not an exaggeration when I say I must have replaced over 100 fuel pumps on these things. It's a really poor design. The entire rear seat has to come out to expose both sides of the fuel tank access ports. Make sure that you tie a long piece of wire to old crossover tube before you pull out the old pump. Because you will need to pull the replacement crossover tube back across. And be very careful with it. The plastic tube can bend and crack very easily and cause the crossover to suck air and not pick up any fuel. Oh, and Ivan. If you decide to do this customer a solid and drain the water from the passenger side, do it outside. Because there is a few gallons of water trapped in that cavity under that seat where the yaw control module resides. And it's because the sunroof drains are blocked up. And the wiper has a broken transmission. Ask me how I know all that. lol.
@@Vince-m2m Not at all if they haven't been abused. I had a 2005 XC70, it was a great car but it had been well cared for prior to my ownership. I now have a 2013 XC70 T6, it was also well cared for. I do my own maintenance and repair minor issues before they become major ones. I have been very happy with both of them.
If I had any hair left (I don't) and if I repaired cars (other than my own) I would absolutely pull my hair out when a car this badly butchered came to me. You are a saint for being willing to work on such cars!
Doing it with with wiring garbage in my late brothers jeep. Electrical garbage. I am not a mechanic but an electronics Tech and decades ago I was headed to the mechanic realm.
Water in the footwell is the sunroof drains, there was a lawsuit about this. There are a bunch of electronics under the passenger seat that cause issues, esp. with audio. The BCM could also be an issue due to water intrusion, which could also cause airbag issues in A-pillars.
I never ever want a sunroof. Spent many years working outside in the blazing sun and that's the last thing i want. These people who drive to work in an air-conditioned car, go into an air-conditioned building, and then declare "what a beautiful day" when the sun is blazing, really burn my a*s. Try working in it! Some people have died of heat stroke, one for the same company i worked.
So if you have water inside front footwell , you must check under scuttle frets, at the lower edge of windscreen, the main drain hopper mesh will be blocked and overspill goes into your lovely car front footwell, this then sets up wonderful condensation inside all lower electrical especially a pillar and under seats , clean out scuttle, and dry out your interior for a totally fixed car. This fault kills every time and the owner loses faith in indestructible Volvo . They sell many expensive parts , but not the scuttle cleaning kit🐥
I would tell him “I have to check your work, we need to pull the pump”. That is a really cool test you did with RPM and the scope, with the rpm rising as it did there must be reduced load or not enough gas to the pump of course the load test showed the same but being able to determine the actual rpm over a given time is really cool.
These Volvo Diag videos are some of my favorite TH-cam videos to watch. I need to find a tech here in AZ that can do this types of electrical diagnosing. I run a small used car dealership that specializes in Volvos and I come across Volvos in very similar states. The high price of Volvo specialty shops and their sketchy reputations lead most Volvo owner to take matters into their own hands. Often resulting in a jumble mess just like this XC90. Great work man! Looking forward to part 2.
@@bernardaflores1720 I know I would like to see Ivan at the ice caves in the desert diagnosing something. His travel bag of tools might need an extra seat on the plane.
Doesn't necessarily have to be pumping air, a blocked or restricted inlet (e.g. flexible pipe collapsing) will also cause a low load condition for the pump motor.
“What would YOU do next?”… Have a peek in the tank Could be contamination clogging the screens? When the car sits fora bit, the contamination falls away from the screens My to bits Love this stuff and the channel Best to all John
You my friend are a saint. The amount of patients you have to work on cars that clearly no one should be working on. My jaw nearly hit the floor watching this one. I feel bad for this car. What did it do to deserve its abuse?
After further consideration, I think a 4th fuel pump should be added. The documentation should call them "primary", "secondary", "tertiary", and "quaternary". Sounds real sophisticated, and should appeal to the engineers even more!
I know the Ford Panther platform cars sometimes suffer from "Wacky Wiper Syndrome." The cavity where the motor sits gets shorted out when the cavity fills with water. There are drains that clog. This car has standing water in it; not to mention it appears to be hacked. I would want that out the door as well and 3 hours of diag. and 5.5 hours to replace the fuel pump that has allegedly been replaced 3 times with the original in it now, I wouldn't think the customer would invest that kind of money. I would cast a critical eye at the fuel pump. This seems like deja vu. on these Volvos. GREAT VIDEO!
Looked like the splines shaft was worn smooth and spinning in the wiper arm while transmission was going. Strange they would both be worn out. But not when taken as a hole with all the other fun things under the hood.
Sandmansa gave a very strong hint about the crossover line: "The plastic tube can bend and crack very easily and cause the crossover to suck air and not pick up any fuel."
Could definitely tell Ivan was disappointed by the news of 4 prior fuel pump replacements. Me too, I was with him the whole way on the fuel pump diagnosis. I still think the pump has to be getting starved, because the amps go way down and the RPM goes up which means to me it's not experiencing the load of having to pump liquid any longer. I feel like there is some more discovery that needs to be done on how that transfer pump (or pumps) work. Pulling for a good result to get that thing outta there!
Ivan, very thoughtful, in depth diagnosis. Just like the song "The Gambler"..... you've got to know when to hold them, know when to fold them, know when to walk away, and know when to RUN!. I think it's time to put on those running shoes!
Great place in the wheel well for the pump controller! The continous rinsing & spraying with rainwater should keep it & all its contacts nice & clean! Check if the fuel pressure problem complication module under the front passenger side footwell might be registering low water pressure & might need a top-up.
I live in Vegas and I worked on an XC 90 for a lady. When I went to the junkyard to get some interior parts. There was about 6 or 7 XC 90S None of them were wrecked. But they were in the junkyard. Wonder why? Maybe they are junk?
Was it blue? Think that was mine. Oil pump had a chunk of metal in it. Not metal shavings, a bar of mangled metal. Pristine inside and out, other than that little problem.
What I would do is: If the customer waffles about how he replaced everything and wants to negotiate and second guess your services, I would thank him, you are an amazing super genius and please come and pick up your vehicle. (yes, I am an A-Hole)
80.000 miles is nothing for a Volvo in terms of wear and tear. We have a V70 with the 2.4L engine in the family with 200.000 miles. Well serviced, well maintained, always fixed the small issues right when they appeared. The 2.4L i5 is Volvos best engine in my opinion, the 2.5L is a bored up 2.4L and thus has an inherently weaker block which is why the first thing to check with an R model Volvos is if the block is cracked. We run a Liqui Moly fuel additive that has had a noticeable effect on keeping the engine cleaner. She's mint. Super comfy and functional leather interior. During our ownership it needed brakes, tires and the front axle rebuild because the rubber bushings just fall apart at that mileage and the front axles of the P2 platform Volvos are kind of known to wear out quicker. Not a major deal though it happens to the best of us and it can all be repaired fairly easily. We had a freak misfire problem once which was traced to a bad connector on a fuel injector by a very competent Volvo mechanic. Cheap fix and they even took all injectors out and send them out to Bosch Service to get them tested and they all came back good. Apart from that its a rust free car since Volvo really went to town with the P2 and later P3 chassis. These cars really last especially because Volvo used high quality OEMs and high quality OE parts. These cars last forever because of that. Volvo didn't skimp out. This summer it will get an oil change, transmission fluid service since the ol Aisin 6 speeds needs some love too and ive noticed some faint belt/idler/tensioner noises that I don't like. I have no record of those components ever being replaced. The timing belt still has one year to go before its due according to the sticker but I might just do a full belt service and do everything. After 200.000 miles the struts are also not feeling too good anymore, might get into that myself of have a mechanic replace them. I'm thinking about some sweet Bilsteins as a replacement. Volvos are some of the greatest cars ever made, except when people who who should not be let near such a car get their hands on it.
I had a 1984 Volvo back in the late 80s. I loved driving that thing but it was an electronic nightmare. It had a recurring mystery problem that turned out to be the engine ground left off by the dealer during a previous repair.
YOU have to take a look inside that tank. IDC if the customer installed 50 pumps, it doesn't mean it was done correctly. We've already seen their idea of re-engineering...
I get the feeling Ivan hates Volvos. To hear his oh man why, why me. He looked spooked at the wipers and I lost it when he was like "why is that wire moving" like its was possessed and he was concerned. For some reason I lost it, had me laughing for 5 min " why is that wire moving ". Poor Ivan, I feel your pain brother.
Secondary pumps are not able to keep prime to main. I would suspect a leaking line in between or a leaking secondary pump. You've already covered the electrical and can prove the pumps are working so that only leaves mechanical. I would actually do a volume test at the manifold next .
All three pumps are within the fuel pump assembly, so when you replace whole pump housing all is replaced, maybe the suction Feed hose is floating and not grounded to the bottom of the tank
After watching multiple TH-cam channels over the last few years I have come to the conclusion that people out there are sending you specifically these types of vehicles as a challenge. lol
Some times we need to know when to advise the customer that it might be time to spend your money on something else. I hate sending repairs away, but I hate wasting a customers money and my time even more. Good luck, I'll certainly look forward to a NPR repair. ;)
Ivan as you are doing quite a few Volvos, I would strongly recommend you get yourself a dealership software setup (VIDA) You can get a Chinese clone DICE interface or Volvo specific VXDiag interface and you can get slightly illegitimate versions of VIDA on the web for free. There are a lot of variants by chassis number/VIN, so the big benefit of VIDA is that it will give you the exact part numbers and parts diagrams for the exact car variant by inputting the VIN. Also the diagnostic information is far more extensive than you get with the generic scanners, such as being able to see the full history tree for every code with freeze-frame data
volvo diesels have interesting set up too. for them you first need to open driver side and remove float unclip hose then i tie a thin rope to the hoses in the tank and go open passenger side and when you remove the pump and the hoses come out with it, and rope gets pulled out too. i use rope to reinstall the hoses back. the hoses are used to pump fuel from one side to another so if they unclip from the fuel pump bowl it could result in the same fuel starvation. waiting until ivan shows the rest.
I wonder if you have a bad hose or maybe it's been connected wrong inside the tank. It would be interesting to see if the new fuel pump assembly is complete or whether you have to change some parts over
This situation happend on my S80 T6 Volvo. Ended up being a crack in the air intake. The car would start up but after a short period of time would bog down & not want move. On start up was good but the sensor would shut down the system for either too much air or lack of pressure in the intake. Replaced the cracked part never had another problem.
34:00 One part of the fuel tank runs out of fuel, the pump begins to consume air and the engine stalls! This is all due to the failure of the fuel pumping system between the parts of the fuel tank. It may be that the fuel pipe or fitting has burst.
Fuel pump being out 4 times makes me wonder if it was installed correctly inside and very possible the pickup tube for the transfer pump is a issue. Should be a hump type tank so a peek inside should show if that is the case immediately
I have a 2007 V70 with 180.000 miles on it. It does not have a single problem. Same era of car, with a lot of shared components to this car. If you fix any problems that appear right away, and do it somewhat proper, these cars can go for a long time.
I think Ray had a vehicle with something similar a few years ago and it was that the transfer pump had been replaced and installed incorrectly, the transfer tube was not in the right position.
Taking a stab at what to try next: I'd try jumper-ing both pumps directly either with either battery power or an adjustable voltage source (assuming maybe they run off PWM), and then seeing how each pump reacts in terms of amp draw, voltage drop, fuel pressure at the injector rail, etc. If possible, i'd also try disconnecting one of the fuel lines at an easy point, or hooking up my own hose to the tank outlet, running it into a catch bucket, and then powering up the pump directly, in order to see what's going on (if it's sucking air, seizing up, etc). Just some random thoughts...
Interesting. I do not trust that rail pressure sensor, it does look new (aftermarket?). I think i saw a schrader valve, so i would first verify the rail pressure sensor reading with an actual analog gauge. Could we "fool" the rail pressure sensor, take control of the signal ourselves and see if the car stays running? Thanks, Ivan.
I'd do visual inspection next. My old Audi A4 Quattro had saddle bag design fuel tank and the transfer pump used venturi effect to siphon fuel over. I had to take it all out to see the hose ruptured or make sure I never let the tank get to 1/4 of fuel left, lol.
At 6:33 initial startup the fuel gauge is on dead empty and never moves when the car starts and is running. If you are diagnosing a fuel feed problem might be important to verify fuel level in the tank. I will assume Ivan has already done that.
When the car does not run anymore - and you use starter-fluid / break-clean, the car starts? Yes: Fuel delivery problem. No: Different problem. To know in which direction the search must go, is surely a great relief. I think about this car since hours, insted of doing my job. :)
A guy is selling a nice looking '93 4Runner CHEAP, because after driving it for 10-15 minutes it dies. He has spent $1000 trying to get it fixed, to no avail. I acts like the fuel pump just shuts down. Your videos have me to buying it with the mission of truly diagnosing the problem without throwing any parts at it.
The water ingress on the passenger footwell is a common problem with these P2 Volvos, it's caused by a a sunroof drain in the A pillar that gets clogged up, and it overflows into the frame and interior. The interior damage looks like it's mostly due to moisture and mold. The fuel pump kept running so I would have pinpointed it to a fuel flow problem, not a fuel pressure, since the static pressure is good but the pump couldn't keep up the pressure once the engine was flowing fuel. It could not deliver enough volume, so perhaps a fuel line or filter is restricted.
The owner failed to mention that he had lost the fuel tank cap, he replaced the cap temporarily with an old pair of underpants, somehow they got sucked into the tank without him knowing. He bought a new cap but now the old undies have made their way yo the suction inlet and eventually choke the inlet causing the stall, they fall off the inlet after the pump is cancelled out.
Would've been nice if the owner took the time beforehand to write a list of every part that was replaced and wiring that was touched. Now you're (mostly) back to square one.
Here in Canada we can offer something called "M.A.I.D.". Mechanical Aid In Dying. It would seem appropriate in this case. 😂🤣 But more seriously, I'm thinking that junk in the tank could be the cause. The pump sucks junk, the car stalls, suction releases, junk falls off, rinse and repeat.
I have a volvo s80 d5 2006. After I changed the oil in the automatic transmission, after 3 weeks it started to go out while I was driving or in a stationary position, then it started right away as if nothing had happened. I went to 4 diagnostic masters, they all said that there were no errors. So I found on internet swedish volvo forums and i think it's down to the oil in the gearbox
don't you just love it when they have saddle tanks with a transfer fuel pump on one side and a delivery fuel pump on the other side then a high pressure pump driven off the cam , what in hell could possibly wrong .
Just looking for a drop in voltage when the pump amperage draw goes down would separate an electrical problem from cavitation or impeller slippage. Use the pump ground to verify it works, basically, voltage drop across the pump.. Or, yes, an oscilloscope. The above test would even work with an incandescent test light, watching for dimming.
Ivé had several Volvo´s from this era and they are generally great cars but the one you got there is endeed one from hell. My gosh the hillbilly attempts on fixing it is incredible
I wonder if something in the tank floating around, I liked how you did the amp draw and compared to rpm tht was so educational i need to get a decent scope
Now these things are my specialty. And not an exaggeration when I say I must have replaced over 100 fuel pumps on these things. It's a really poor design. The entire rear seat has to come out to expose both sides of the fuel tank access ports. Make sure that you tie a long piece of wire to old crossover tube before you pull out the old pump. Because you will need to pull the replacement crossover tube back across. And be very careful with it. The plastic tube can bend and crack very easily and cause the crossover to suck air and not pick up any fuel.
Oh, and Ivan. If you decide to do this customer a solid and drain the water from the passenger side, do it outside. Because there is a few gallons of water trapped in that cavity under that seat where the yaw control module resides. And it's because the sunroof drains are blocked up. And the wiper has a broken transmission. Ask me how I know all that. lol.
Wow, Volvos sound like huge pieces of junk! Thanks for the heads up
I heard the way these fail, it's a safety feature - kind of gives you a heads up before it goes completely kaput.
@@Vince-m2m Not at all if they haven't been abused. I had a 2005 XC70, it was a great car but it had been well cared for prior to my ownership. I now have a 2013 XC70 T6, it was also well cared for. I do my own maintenance and repair minor issues before they become major ones. I have been very happy with both of them.
You sound like a veteran Volvo mechanic 🤣🤣🤣
Where does the "3 pumps" thing exist?
We've been shown 1 fuel pump in this video so where are the other 2 located?
If I had any hair left (I don't) and if I repaired cars (other than my own) I would absolutely pull my hair out when a car this badly butchered came to me. You are a saint for being willing to work on such cars!
The worst thing that a mechanic has to do is to fix the previous mechanic’s error.
I can forgive an error but doing a job with his ass ,ohhh man.
Or a DIY error..
@@Dytopjewa7631 👍Especially us DIY.
Doing it with with wiring garbage in my late brothers jeep. Electrical garbage. I am not a mechanic but an electronics Tech and decades ago I was headed to the mechanic realm.
Hello, I'm looking to buy a thinktool pros, but I can't seem to find one anywhere. Can you point me in the right direction, please.
Water in the footwell is the sunroof drains, there was a lawsuit about this. There are a bunch of electronics under the passenger seat that cause issues, esp. with audio. The BCM could also be an issue due to water intrusion, which could also cause airbag issues in A-pillars.
I never ever want a sunroof. Spent many years working outside in the blazing sun and that's the last thing i want. These people who drive to work in an air-conditioned car, go into an air-conditioned building, and then declare "what a beautiful day" when the sun is blazing, really burn my a*s. Try working in it! Some people have died of heat stroke, one for the same company i worked.
So if you have water inside front footwell , you must check under scuttle frets, at the lower edge of windscreen, the main drain hopper mesh will be blocked and overspill goes into your lovely car front footwell, this then sets up wonderful condensation inside all lower electrical especially a pillar and under seats , clean out scuttle, and dry out your interior for a totally fixed car. This fault kills every time and the owner loses faith in indestructible Volvo . They sell many expensive parts , but not the scuttle cleaning kit🐥
What a friggin mess! The tow bill is more than that turd is worth. Part 2 is watching it get crushed.
That thing is fully optioned with the passenger footbath and everything... I'm so jelly!
You looked so disappointed during the intro😂😂😂 i know bro I've had to work on these too
I would tell him “I have to check your work, we need to pull the pump”. That is a really cool test you did with RPM and the scope, with the rpm rising as it did there must be reduced load or not enough gas to the pump of course the load test showed the same but being able to determine the actual rpm over a given time is really cool.
These Volvo Diag videos are some of my favorite TH-cam videos to watch. I need to find a tech here in AZ that can do this types of electrical diagnosing. I run a small used car dealership that specializes in Volvos and I come across Volvos in very similar states. The high price of Volvo specialty shops and their sketchy reputations lead most Volvo owner to take matters into their own hands. Often resulting in a jumble mess just like this XC90. Great work man! Looking forward to part 2.
You might be better off, flying Ivan to your location when needed. Finding someone w/ Ivan's skills is going to be a problem.
You have to be rich to own an aging Volvo. Or DIY. No other way around it.
@@user-pq9ji7kt4l I think I know a couple of these people
@@bernardaflores1720 I know I would like to see Ivan at the ice caves in the desert diagnosing something. His travel bag of tools might need an extra seat on the plane.
a friend of mine is a good tech and spends winters up in arizona
A lowering of amps means the pump is losing its load. Instead of pumping gas it's pumping air. Causing the stall.
Doesn't necessarily have to be pumping air, a blocked or restricted inlet (e.g. flexible pipe collapsing) will also cause a low load condition for the pump motor.
Ivan already alluded to this
Time for a visual inspection.
That's what I think also!
I think there is a blockage or an air leak.
“What would YOU do next?”…
Have a peek in the tank
Could be contamination clogging the screens?
When the car sits fora bit, the contamination falls away from the screens
My to bits
Love this stuff and the channel
Best to all
John
Send it to the bone yard?
The wire moving killed me. 😂😂😂 What is that!!!
Oh boy 👍🥳. Ivan took us back to a multi episode video. Get your popcorn ready folks. Here we go 🤣
You my friend are a saint. The amount of patients you have to work on cars that clearly no one should be working on. My jaw nearly hit the floor watching this one. I feel bad for this car. What did it do to deserve its abuse?
After further consideration, I think a 4th fuel pump should be added. The documentation should call them "primary", "secondary", "tertiary", and "quaternary". Sounds real sophisticated, and should appeal to the engineers even more!
I know the Ford Panther platform cars sometimes suffer from "Wacky Wiper Syndrome." The cavity where the motor sits gets shorted out when the cavity fills with water. There are drains that clog. This car has standing water in it; not to mention it appears to be hacked. I would want that out the door as well and 3 hours of diag. and 5.5 hours to replace the fuel pump that has allegedly been replaced 3 times with the original in it now, I wouldn't think the customer would invest that kind of money. I would cast a critical eye at the fuel pump. This seems like deja vu. on these Volvos. GREAT VIDEO!
Looked like the splines shaft was worn smooth and spinning in the wiper arm while transmission was going. Strange they would both be worn out. But not when taken as a hole with all the other fun things under the hood.
@@robertsmith2956 You are correct. I noticed that as well.
Those homemade painted red calipers are a sure giveaway this Volvo is not a virgin.
That thing was 1 step away from plasti-dipped wheels. GAH.
Stay gold.
Why do people do this to themselves? there are so many better cars to own for a bargain price. Why Why?
Sounds like some tomfoolery in the tank, hose routing, missing o-ring, something
Sandmansa gave a very strong hint about the crossover line:
"The plastic tube can bend and crack very easily and cause the crossover to suck air and not pick up any fuel."
Could definitely tell Ivan was disappointed by the news of 4 prior fuel pump replacements. Me too, I was with him the whole way on the fuel pump diagnosis.
I still think the pump has to be getting starved, because the amps go way down and the RPM goes up which means to me it's not experiencing the load of having to pump liquid any longer.
I feel like there is some more discovery that needs to be done on how that transfer pump (or pumps) work. Pulling for a good result to get that thing outta there!
Ivan, very thoughtful, in depth diagnosis. Just like the song "The Gambler"..... you've got to know when to hold them, know when to fold them, know when to walk away, and know when to RUN!. I think it's time to put on those running shoes!
Maybe if enough of us say this he might re-think accepting anything and everything.
Do you ever walk to the fence and call a horse to pick you up and let it be it's guide for hours to clear your head?
Morning and evening for me.
Wtf are you talking about?
Best comment yet! Love it!
Great place in the wheel well for the pump controller! The continous rinsing & spraying with rainwater should keep it & all its contacts nice & clean!
Check if the fuel pressure problem complication module under the front passenger side footwell might be registering low water pressure & might need a top-up.
I'm suspecting a hose connected to the transfer pump is either not connected or damaged. Need to look in the tank.
Maybe the feeding hose is collapsing, clogging from suction, starving. RPM goes up because no fuel supply.
Never too late for a case study!
Thank you for expanding my knowledge in this carrier these last 3 years
I live in Vegas and I worked on an XC 90 for a lady. When I went to the junkyard to get some interior parts. There was about 6 or 7 XC 90S None of them were wrecked. But they were in the junkyard. Wonder why? Maybe they are junk?
Was it blue? Think that was mine. Oil pump had a chunk of metal in it. Not metal shavings, a bar of mangled metal. Pristine inside and out, other than that little problem.
What I would do is: If the customer waffles about how he replaced everything and wants to negotiate and second guess your services, I would thank him, you are an amazing super genius and please come and pick up your vehicle. (yes, I am an A-Hole)
Your going back down that rabbit hole again
I was going to call you out for hyperbole (certainly not all of your clients' cars can be "from hell").
But I'm thinking that you're right this time.
Comes with the full guarantee - if it breaks in half...you get to keep both halves 😊
You sure it's not a tail light warranty? Warranty lasts as far as I can see your tail lights.
LOL...yep...good ole Okie guarontee
I would be dismantling that pump to figure out the failure point. It would drive me crazy not knowing how it broke. Great job!
80.000 miles is nothing for a Volvo in terms of wear and tear. We have a V70 with the 2.4L engine in the family with 200.000 miles. Well serviced, well maintained, always fixed the small issues right when they appeared. The 2.4L i5 is Volvos best engine in my opinion, the 2.5L is a bored up 2.4L and thus has an inherently weaker block which is why the first thing to check with an R model Volvos is if the block is cracked.
We run a Liqui Moly fuel additive that has had a noticeable effect on keeping the engine cleaner.
She's mint.
Super comfy and functional leather interior.
During our ownership it needed brakes, tires and the front axle rebuild because the rubber bushings just fall apart at that mileage and the front axles of the P2 platform Volvos are kind of known to wear out quicker. Not a major deal though it happens to the best of us and it can all be repaired fairly easily.
We had a freak misfire problem once which was traced to a bad connector on a fuel injector by a very competent Volvo mechanic. Cheap fix and they even took all injectors out and send them out to Bosch Service to get them tested and they all came back good.
Apart from that its a rust free car since Volvo really went to town with the P2 and later P3 chassis. These cars really last especially because Volvo used high quality OEMs and high quality OE parts. These cars last forever because of that. Volvo didn't skimp out.
This summer it will get an oil change, transmission fluid service since the ol Aisin 6 speeds needs some love too and ive noticed some faint belt/idler/tensioner noises that I don't like. I have no record of those components ever being replaced. The timing belt still has one year to go before its due according to the sticker but I might just do a full belt service and do everything.
After 200.000 miles the struts are also not feeling too good anymore, might get into that myself of have a mechanic replace them. I'm thinking about some sweet Bilsteins as a replacement.
Volvos are some of the greatest cars ever made, except when people who who should not be let near such a car get their hands on it.
The moment I saw that red u-haul connector at 4:00 I knew it was going to be a good video
I had a 1984 Volvo back in the late 80s. I loved driving that thing but it was an electronic nightmare. It had a recurring mystery problem that turned out to be the engine ground left off by the dealer during a previous repair.
The FML vibe throughout this whole video so far is relatable. lol
YOU have to take a look inside that tank. IDC if the customer installed 50 pumps, it doesn't mean it was done correctly. We've already seen their idea of re-engineering...
Just remember Ivan, you can say NO! to any job. lol
I get the feeling Ivan hates Volvos. To hear his oh man why, why me. He looked spooked at the wipers and I lost it when he was like "why is that wire moving" like its was possessed and he was concerned. For some reason I lost it, had me laughing for 5 min " why is that wire moving ". Poor Ivan, I feel your pain brother.
Ivan can turn any hell project into a heavy project.
My guess is the pump is fine and there's some tubing issue mess in fuel tank that was overlooked.
Secondary pumps are not able to keep prime to main. I would suspect a leaking line in between or a leaking secondary pump. You've already covered the electrical and can prove the pumps are working so that only leaves mechanical. I would actually do a volume test at the manifold next .
Doing that might expose an amazon throttle body. To risky.
All three pumps are within the fuel pump assembly, so when you replace whole pump housing all is replaced, maybe the suction Feed hose is floating and not grounded to the bottom of the tank
Well done with the intelligent diagnosis, I think the comment from Sandmansa makes a lot of sense.
I’m looking forward to seeing the mayhem inside that tank lol.
After watching multiple TH-cam channels over the last few years I have come to the conclusion that people out there are sending you specifically these types of vehicles as a challenge. lol
What I would do next you ask?
I would set up a blind date for the Volvo from hell to meet the Audi from hell 😂😂
I hate working on crap other people have butchered, you are a very patient man 😂
Some times we need to know when to advise the customer that it might be time to spend your money on something else.
I hate sending repairs away, but I hate wasting a customers money and my time even more.
Good luck, I'll certainly look forward to a NPR repair. ;)
Ivan as you are doing quite a few Volvos, I would strongly recommend you get yourself a dealership software setup (VIDA)
You can get a Chinese clone DICE interface or Volvo specific VXDiag interface and you can get slightly illegitimate versions of VIDA on the web for free.
There are a lot of variants by chassis number/VIN, so the big benefit of VIDA is that it will give you the exact part numbers and parts diagrams for the exact car variant by inputting the VIN.
Also the diagnostic information is far more extensive than you get with the generic scanners, such as being able to see the full history tree for every code with freeze-frame data
volvo diesels have interesting set up too. for them you first need to open driver side and remove float unclip hose then i tie a thin rope to the hoses in the tank and go open passenger side and when you remove the pump and the hoses come out with it, and rope gets pulled out too. i use rope to reinstall the hoses back. the hoses are used to pump fuel from one side to another so if they unclip from the fuel pump bowl it could result in the same fuel starvation. waiting until ivan shows the rest.
I hope Ivan has a good therapist to see after these last couple of videos! I think I need one just watching these video!
Had one of these at work that had fuel pump issues. That pump is strange to change because it routes in the tank weird.
This one seems like a bag of worms. So many splices. I'm not a mechanic but I think this one is a doozie. I look forward to the conclusion.
My next move would be 1/2 stick on dynamite in the fuel tank. LOL. You are becoming the Volvo go to guy.
Your facial expressions say it all for each encounter.
I wonder if you have a bad hose or maybe it's been connected wrong inside the tank. It would be interesting to see if the new fuel pump assembly is complete or whether you have to change some parts over
ivan good luck with this car love the black tape on wiper arm hope you do not get more gray hairs love the night owl edition
"This Volvo is nuts...What would you do next?"
I would wash it down with gasoline and dry it off with matches.
The pump even sounds like it's trying to pump air. We're going in!
I'm gonna start a specialized car towing business... my only destination will be PHAD! I will advertise nationwide.
This situation happend on my S80 T6 Volvo.
Ended up being a crack in the air intake.
The car would start up but after a short period of time would bog down & not want move.
On start up was good but the sensor would shut down the system for either too much air or lack of pressure in the intake.
Replaced the cracked part never had another problem.
I liked this one a lot . Very interesting video / project / diagnostic ,Super helpful . Entertaining too !! Thanks Ivan .
👊🏼 🔥 💻 📈 💡
32:04 Hi Ivan, maybe it's pump suck air in fuel tank and rotates faster and consumes less current because no resistance.
34:00 One part of the fuel tank runs out of fuel, the pump begins to consume air and the engine stalls! This is all due to the failure of the fuel pumping system between the parts of the fuel tank. It may be that the fuel pipe or fitting has burst.
LOL Ivan talking to the wiper ghost wire like its a little cat doing cat antics, I love it.
Stay gold.
😂
Fuel pump being out 4 times makes me wonder if it was installed correctly inside and very possible the pickup tube for the transfer pump is a issue. Should be a hump type tank so a peek inside should show if that is the case immediately
Seems very likely to me.
Thanks for this, a great learning opportunity 👍👍🏴🏴
Great diagnosis.
Careful with those lights right next to your computer screen. It could get warm enough to warp the screen.
When you see additional wires looped over the engine to the fuse box you know some one has no idea how to fix the problem.Hate repairs like this.
I have a 2007 V70 with 180.000 miles on it. It does not have a single problem. Same era of car, with a lot of shared components to this car.
If you fix any problems that appear right away, and do it somewhat proper, these cars can go for a long time.
I think Ray had a vehicle with something similar a few years ago and it was that the transfer pump had been replaced and installed incorrectly, the transfer tube was not in the right position.
I thought that was Ivan.
Taking a stab at what to try next: I'd try jumper-ing both pumps directly either with either battery power or an adjustable voltage source (assuming maybe they run off PWM), and then seeing how each pump reacts in terms of amp draw, voltage drop, fuel pressure at the injector rail, etc.
If possible, i'd also try disconnecting one of the fuel lines at an easy point, or hooking up my own hose to the tank outlet, running it into a catch bucket, and then powering up the pump directly, in order to see what's going on (if it's sucking air, seizing up, etc). Just some random thoughts...
Interesting. I do not trust that rail pressure sensor, it does look new (aftermarket?). I think i saw a schrader valve, so i would first verify the rail pressure sensor reading with an actual analog gauge. Could we "fool" the rail pressure sensor, take control of the signal ourselves and see if the car stays running?
Thanks, Ivan.
I'd do visual inspection next. My old Audi A4 Quattro had saddle bag design fuel tank and the transfer pump used venturi effect to siphon fuel over. I had to take it all out to see the hose ruptured or make sure I never let the tank get to 1/4 of fuel left, lol.
Stuff a rag in the gas inlet and light it?
At 6:33 initial startup the fuel gauge is on dead empty and never moves when the car starts and is running. If you are diagnosing a fuel feed problem might be important to verify fuel level in the tank. I will assume Ivan has already done that.
Looking at the quality of work the owner is doing .... definitely necessary to take a look at the fuel pump assembly .
When the car does not run anymore - and you use starter-fluid / break-clean, the car starts?
Yes: Fuel delivery problem.
No: Different problem.
To know in which direction the search must go, is surely a great relief.
I think about this car since hours, insted of doing my job. :)
A guy is selling a nice looking '93 4Runner CHEAP, because after driving it for 10-15 minutes it dies. He has spent $1000 trying to get it fixed, to no avail. I acts like the fuel pump just shuts down. Your videos have me to buying it with the mission of truly diagnosing the problem without throwing any parts at it.
In case you had noticed Ivan, P2 Volvo's also suffer with broken ignition barrels 🤣🤣🤣
your braver than i am i would have seen that mess under the hood and the box of parts and said nope someone has been in here and butchered this wiring
IVAN, Thank you for what you do and the time u spend to show ur viewer cheeeeers.
The water ingress on the passenger footwell is a common problem with these P2 Volvos, it's caused by a a sunroof drain in the A pillar that gets clogged up, and it overflows into the frame and interior. The interior damage looks like it's mostly due to moisture and mold.
The fuel pump kept running so I would have pinpointed it to a fuel flow problem, not a fuel pressure, since the static pressure is good but the pump couldn't keep up the pressure once the engine was flowing fuel. It could not deliver enough volume, so perhaps a fuel line or filter is restricted.
Volvo loves that early / late production and "chassis number" for service info...
Those water leaks come from the sunroof! the drains need attention!
If you stay over 90 the rain won't penetrate the airstream over the car. It hits it and stops. Water exploding makes an interesting sound.
The owner failed to mention that he had lost the fuel tank cap, he replaced the cap temporarily with an old pair of underpants, somehow they got sucked into the tank without him knowing. He bought a new cap but now the old undies have made their way yo the suction inlet and eventually choke the inlet causing the stall, they fall off the inlet after the pump is cancelled out.
Sounds like a load of old pants to me 😂
Undiegate
hahaha this is the real story
worst bit is , they werent his underpants.
Would've been nice if the owner took the time beforehand to write a list of every part that was replaced and wiring that was touched.
Now you're (mostly) back to square one.
That list would be 20 pages long 😂
What’s funny is that the same generation S60 which shares a lot of parts with the XC90, is a very stout and reliable car
Here in Canada we can offer something called "M.A.I.D.". Mechanical Aid In Dying. It would seem appropriate in this case. 😂🤣
But more seriously, I'm thinking that junk in the tank could be the cause. The pump sucks junk, the car stalls, suction releases, junk falls off, rinse and repeat.
I have a volvo s80 d5 2006. After I changed the oil in the automatic transmission, after 3 weeks it started to go out while I was driving or in a stationary position, then it started right away as if nothing had happened. I went to 4 diagnostic masters, they all said that there were no errors. So I found on internet swedish volvo forums and i think it's down to the oil in the gearbox
Just pour the old oil back in and sell it 😂
Internal fuel pump hose not clamped tight enough.
There's an accordian -like hose that goes from 1 side to the other...I suspect it's leaking.
That should have been towed to the crusher with all those issues. As always, another great video.
Internal tank fuel hose / connection o-ring split or shrunk or gunk / pre-filters.
don't you just love it when they have saddle tanks with a transfer fuel pump on one side and a delivery fuel pump on the other side then a high pressure pump driven off the cam , what in hell could possibly wrong .
I was starting to wonder if you were alright.
Just looking for a drop in voltage when the pump amperage draw goes down would separate an electrical problem from cavitation or impeller slippage. Use the pump ground to verify it works, basically, voltage drop across the pump..
Or, yes, an oscilloscope.
The above test would even work with an incandescent test light, watching for dimming.
Ivé had several Volvo´s from this era and they are generally great cars but the one you got there is endeed one from hell. My gosh the hillbilly attempts on fixing it is incredible
Man, do I enjoy your diag videos... Even stayed up way past my bedtime to watch.... LOL... Regards
It seems that lately Ivan is getting all the cars from hell. Maybe the channel should be renamed hell's garage!
What a giant knot left for the master of threads to untie. Someone had no clue what they were doing to the wiring. Yikes.
A man needs to know his limitations
So does an alleged car company
@@Wayne-n4zWhat is "alleged" to be a car company?
@@ferrumignis Dodge. All of Dodge. GM EV. Ford EV. Volvo EV. I give up.
Stay gold.
Dirty Harry Magnum Force 1973 Great Movie
@@dnlmachine4287 You seem confused, those are actual car companies, not "alleged". You may not like the products, but they clearly exist.
I wonder if something in the tank floating around, I liked how you did the amp draw and compared to rpm tht was so educational i need to get a decent scope
This is definitely a great work