@geoffwalker7530 NORMALLY I would not respond to those attempt to espouse their wisdom without even attempting to verify the same by cracking open a dictionary. The same would be true if I were to say GEOFF is an improper spelling of the name, as everyone know that it begins with a "J".
Excellent ! Thanks for sharing your wisdom regarding test light use and for the PERFECT videography (close up of equipment set up , tool choice / wrenching location / how to dismantle parts to get access / and close ups of your scan tool screen ) - ALL THE WHILE YOU are providing COACHING CUES AND THEORY OF SYSTEM OPERATION with us !! Very helpful/nice of you Ivan ! 👊🏼 🔥 📈 🔑
As soon as the valve cover came off and I saw the exhaust phaser coming apart. I said Ivan is installing another cam phaser. Bonus timing chain painted links just happen to fall on the timing marks, Buy a lottery ticket!
Scary thing about these engines is that the rings get sludged and stuck (even after Toyota's "improved" pistons/rings for 2010). So any of them with 100K+ miles have been run low on oil by the customer, meaning it's often hard to distinguish cam phaser knock from cam bearing or rod bearing slap. Plus the pistons will "wipe" the hatch marks at certain points in the cylinder bore, meaning there's no fix for the oil consumption even if you re-ring them. It's a mine field trying to "fix" these, but congrats on getting that one back to running condition!
Thank you for the info on these three Camry videos. I just rescued a 2010 LE from my neighbor with all the symptoms described. Find the squirrel living in the back seat and we are good to go.
A one man band; with a brilliant, mechanical mind. It’s amazing why people bring you their cars to be fixed from all over creation from different states .
Damn good job...Dealer would have told him that he needed a new Engine...Oh, by the way, we have a brand new Toyode Camry right out front...we will give you a deal on a trade in.
Tech tip: Not your issue but another rattle on those engines is the balance shafts in the oil pan. They rattle at idle in gear. The more accessory load the louder they are. Also rattle just off idle briefly when accelerating. They also known to use oil.
Timely video Ivan! My ex wife just bought a 2011 Camry from one of her Jiu Jitsu students, joined the military, and is gone for a couple years. I am going to have to familiarize myself with its typical issues I'm afraid. Extremely low miles, Southern car, always garaged, owned by his grandparents, pristine inside and out. I told her, if she didn't buy it from the guy, I was going to. It's a Unicorn. Not looking forward to phaser replacement! Thanks for the video. Now I know what I need to prepare for.
If you got one of the cars with the 2GR engine, this will not happen. You should check the power steering return line, because it's probably leaking a tiny bit.
Regarding Toyota parts it’s cheaper if you order them online from the dealer that phaser discounted for $324 plus $21 shipping if you can pick it up then you save the shipping.
Truly enjoyed your video and sleuthing to remedy the problems. What was especially notable was that you took the time to clearly diagnose each issue and not guess. Thank you.
I have a 2011 with the 2 AR FE, VVTi solenoid went out at 210k miles (hwy mostly), never knew she was excessively burning oil. Those issues are oil starvation related because of the defective piston rings those engines have. After monitoring the oil consumption, I noticed that she burns 1 qtz every 7-800 miles. All I do now is adding 1 qtz every 500 miles and I live with it, changing the oil/filter every 3k miles unlike the previous 5k miles interval. The rattling sound at start has been going since the car was new and usually quiets down (at start) after an oil change then gets louder over time until the next oil change. Still great engines, very smooth and good mpg.
6:20 @@peglegtooThat's actually the next CEL I'm expecting to get. I don't know if highway commuting might have a protecting effect to some extent delaying the cats failure (high exhaust flow velocity). Hopefully, it doesn't happen before my MA state emission inspection in Nov lol
@@BT-zw2ix If you're handy you could have a small straight pipe made up or get a cheap aftermarket cat from canada and remove your factory cat and only reinstall it to get thru inspection hence preserving it from annual oil damage.
@@peglegtooIt's like you read my mind lol. When the 3 cats went out on my 01 Lexus GS 300, I bought aftermarket ones from Flowmaster out of Canada actually and they worked great until I let the car go, I think that's the option that I'll be going with.
Great video, Ivan! U put the phaser on "stun." 🤣 Shame on Toyota, highly illogical. Glad to see u use OEM's all the time. I owned a 97 4cyl Camry & would STILL have it if it didn't rust out in WPA w/265,000 miles. Ran like a top! Your job nicely done! Already sub'd, gave u a 👍. PS. That cam area was pretty clean. Good to see that they change oil frequently. 🖖
My friend has a 2010 Toyota Camry and he started getting a rattle on a cold start and a slightly extended crank when starting too. Surprisingly no check engine light and he has had the noise for a few months now. Ill be checking it out this week. This video will be a great guide.
Great diagnosis Ivan and good application of your prior knowledge in fixing this issue. I like particularly that you are always trying to save the customer $$$ by not just firing the Psrts Cannon at things. Good work.
Ivan i got a chuckle out of you beating that vvt solenoid out of its socket with a claw hammer and claw tool. I thought it must be out of round somehow then realized it was stuck by well done light oil which also jammed the spool valve. Then owner did the old trick of putting in new oil before taking it to the mech. That car takes 0w20 oil whereas my wife's 2004 Camry says 5w30. Both 4 cyls. Did Toyota change engine tolerances on later engines or is that change a govt bureaucrat deciding lighter oil saves fuel? At the cost of shorter lived engines. You're right about the cam phaser, $500 is an outrageous rip off. Toyota should sell them at cost since thats a weak point in those engines.
I know the guy is a student and that we have all been there, but this is one of the cheapest vehicles to own/maintain so even with an expensive phaser and an official Denso coil plus your labour to diagnose and repair the vehicle it's still worth it and I'd much rather a 2010 Toyota with these bulletproof simple to repair/fix engines that go on forever with minimal required than some of the newer junk on the road. (Not that newer Toyota's are junk, but the older ones are better). Good job Ivan!
This is a remake that is as interesting as the original 🙂 Great job, Ivan! Too bad it needed the phaser, or it would have been a relatively inexpensive repair.
Can't wait for the next video 👍 WISE,Ivan,Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics Brilliant video tutorial great Take care,lvan,Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧 ⏰️ 20:36pm Good Evening
I use a power probe with bulb attached between power probe so I can use with the probe power switch and see voltage and do it safely eliminate more test wiring.
Toyota oil control solenoids are a very tight fit, any oil varnish makes removal difficult. I have had to remove the valve cover and tap them out from the inside out using a wooden dowel and a hammer.
Just bought a 2006 Corrolla wagon 362,000 klms on it no codes ,I looked at live data throttle position sensor slightly out of range. Will fix it when it fails altogether.Cheers Ivan.
Great video. Great diagnosis. Why wouldn't those three P0015's clear? Did they clear themselves once the job was done? It would be nice to see a post mortem on the old phaser. As it's a common problem, which bit inside fails and what is rattling when you shake it?
there is a trick to remove the stuck boots from multipliers that stay on the spark plugs, you put logo glue on the end of the multiplier where the boot fastens, you put it on the spark plug, you put it in front of the car to warm up and the glue dries and when you pull the multiplier, the boot comes out because it has it's stuck on the multiplier, it's been tested and it's always been successful
I prefer to glue a yellow legal pad to the crank pulley. Then do some multiplication on my abacus, then reverse it by division. The, I start the engine, hold it on the rev limiter. By God, that legal pad flies right off like it was never there, every single time. All done.
That charger is sweet. Jake was able to use his to monitor a weird headlight and brake light activation overnight on a Ford truck. That diagnosis still blows my mind.
Toyota only checks base cam timing(phasers locked )under certain conditions, if memory serves me right it's after a certain drive time then after a certain idle time. I believe it's because base cam timing is not optimal idle cam timing. when my 2010 RAV4 timing chain stretched the engine would run perfect after clearing the cam/crank correlation code for a 10 mile test drive and only set the code after like the 3rd stop sign or traffic light.
Blackstone has free oil analysis kit that costs 30 bucks To send back for analysis, I feel like that might be a good middle ground because you can find out if an extended oil change is acceptable and then save Money and Resources by avoiding unnecessary oil changes. And since a full synthetic oil change can cost so much 30 bucks isn't much to ask for detailed analysis. I have heard they can also analyze oil filters and sometimes those can last more miles than 1 oil change. I guess that is helpful for a person who drives a ton of miles within the 1 year lifetime of an oil filter.
the 2ar-fe is more known for the intake phaser. That is the rattler. when I did the timing chain and phasers on my 2010 RAV4 the only TSB that I could find was for the intake phaser, but my exhaust phaser was damaged in a similar fashion to this one, though mine wasn't broken internally, just the shield around the spring was coming out.. This problem with the exhaust phaser is a known problem with a TSB for the 2gr-fe.
I love the Platinum S10. Awesome scan tool and very fast. I got the one that came with the touchscreen J box. It’s my favorite scan tool and my go to at the moment.
Can’t kick a whole lot on 190K . All of them have various issues at times, but I would still choose Toyota over anything else. That one looked like it had pretty descent maintenance , but most often these problems are related to poor maintenance . Nice work Ivan. 👍👍🇺🇸
That engine looked like it had great maintenance, no residue discoloring the valve train when Ivan has the valve cover off, so this engine should keep on kickin for another 100k+ if the new owner keeps up with maintenance.
I work at the factory that builds the Camry. have been there since 2005. Something doesn't seem correct at all about that solenoid. Since you had all that trouble removing it. They were super easy to install. But good job none the less.
@@slocavky lots of things are super easy at the factory but not after a few miles ,like the super brittle electrical connectors. The orings get super hard that's why the vvti valves are hard to get out
Hi Ivan, I was wondering if you could possibly try teaching the crickets to serenade together in unified concerto. Possibly even to be used as background music. They seem to want to sing!!
I bet you forgot to plug in that crank sensor on purpose so it could build proper oil pressure before starting dry ;) Excellent video btw, great diagnosis!
I didn't know the 2010-11 models had cam phaser issues. My neighbor has a 2008 that apparently has bad piston rings. It burns oil and smokes on startup. I understand that was an issue on the 2008-09 models. I learned that from some guy that waves his arms and often says car companies may be going bust. At 20:35, "This sprocket/phaser retails for over $500.00. C'mon, Toyota!" Ya know, it could be worse. LOL. Aren't you glad your Mercury doesn't have variable valve timing? GREAT VIDEO!
There was a warranty extension back in the day to tear the engine down and replace the piston and rings with redesigned ones , have a 09 that now has 280k on it was done at 135k the car is a tank
@@jjoop Precisely; that appears to be a recurring theme with Toyota. I heard they are going to need to replace 102,000 engines in their Tundra pickup. At least they do make it right.
Common practice with Toyota.. Raise price on parts that frequently fail! Many years ago Camry steering shaft U joints one inside and the one under hood. The under hood joints began failing in rust belt. Toyota quickly doubled the price. Basically almost the same parts.
@@Don_Iocco I feel like they wouldn't want to use lower quality parts that break constantly because the owners will get mad and buy it from another brand. But maybe most new car buyers trade in to a new Lexus so it doesn't matter if Lexus uses weak parts, it won't break before most owners trade it I.
Im going to do what axl guy did and make an electric turbo, I think that is the future for sure, going to couple it with a 48V100AH battery the question is would there be a way to get the car to use an electric turbo in a fashion similar to a normal turbo or will it basically just be a simple circuit of off and on, id rahter have it react to the engine as opposed to a on and off max blast kind of thing.
Good old old cars you can't beat them I bet if that was a stupid modern smart charger alternator his battery would probably have been wasted plus the topdon tornado charger sounds amazing
With Toyota engines of this generation I assume a used one needs either the intake phaser. Replaced 3 already on the 1.8L engines on the 2009/2010 Pontiac Vibe cars. I don’t touch the 2.4L versions due to the oil burn problems they have.
The funny thing is how much things have changed, many toyotas, Hyundai, etc. are made in America while the American brands might be made outside of America.
Using a current limiting series lamp is a great idea for automotive, as it is widely/universally used for equipment repair/testing to prevent stuff from going “bang”, in the event of short circuits and ground faults.
There's always a possibility that a coil has a back-emf diode. Connect the leads the wrong way, you may cause the diode to short without some kind of current limiter.
Love your videos. I have learned a lot. Im from Puerto Rico and i was call to fly to Pennsylvania and i said OMG this guy is from there. Im working in Lycoming but i think its to far to meet you. Blessings man
Good video Ivan. I don't have any friends so I'll share it here that I got defeated by my Acura MDX trying to do both a bank 1 (between engine and firewall) catalytic converter and passenger axle at once the other day. Got everything figured out except I'll have to replace my lower control arm because the discontinued the rubber boot for the lower ball joint and I split it because a pickle fork was the only thing that could separate the knuckle from the control arm.
@@johnstuchlik5828 Unfortunately on this one the axle is directly above the threaded portion of the ball joint. The Autozone separator tool was not up to the task and just kept shooting off at mach 5. The Honda/Acura version of the tool shown in the service manual looked more up to the task
That's a difficult arrangement for shure.i did a boot on Honda pilot and used a partial threaded nut on ball joint to protect thread and then hammer one or more large chisel between nut and outer cv joint to wedge off.have also used a fork type separator some time with chisel in same location.good to use a nut you don't care about.have not verify the fork will work in that location on the acura.sounds like you did what you could at the time.perhaps you can add grease to the split boot to prolong the life of joint.grease injector.some work better than others.i hope this actually helps you I forgot how your Acura was made.now if you want a real challenge take a fusion apart with two lower control arms w/o damage.
Nice video. The $500 part - it is a precision machined and carefully engineered device. Not long ago $100 was a decent amount of money. Now we can spend that in a convenience store. Or buy 8 cheeseburgers. $500 isn't what it used to be.
Familiar territory for me once again, but my luck is good this time. The wife's Camry has about 214,000 miles now, but it's an 07 model. Great job by Ivan once again!
@@ThatEEguy2818 eh I don't like to waste customer's money unnecessarily. If it sticks again, it's super easy to replace! Has been fine for 2 months now 😁👍
In an insane world, it is good to have a healthy dose of sanity and normalcy on TH-cam...thank you, Ivan.
There's no such word as normalcy, try normality
@geoffwalker7530
NORMALLY I would not respond to those attempt to espouse their wisdom without even attempting to verify the same by cracking open a dictionary.
The same would be true if I were to say GEOFF is an improper spelling of the name, as everyone know that it begins with a "J".
We must love life
Excellent ! Thanks for sharing your wisdom regarding test light use and for the PERFECT videography (close up of equipment set up , tool choice / wrenching location / how to dismantle parts to get access / and close ups of your scan tool screen ) - ALL THE WHILE YOU are providing COACHING CUES AND THEORY OF SYSTEM OPERATION with us !! Very helpful/nice of you Ivan ! 👊🏼 🔥 📈 🔑
I’m impressed they gave you the car with 3/4 of a tank of fuel. Ivan for the win, again!
As soon as the valve cover came off and I saw the exhaust phaser coming apart. I said Ivan is installing another cam phaser. Bonus timing chain painted links just happen to fall on the timing marks, Buy a lottery ticket!
So adding the Corolla coil, would make this a Camry Corolla. Great job!
It's a Camrolla.
@@Bellboy40 Beat me to it! LOL ... And in a few more years it will be a Toyota Corroded!
Wouldn't it be funny it is the camry coil that breaks the phaser.
It amazes me how simple and accessible these Camry's are to work on and fix. Too bad all cars aren't this simple.
Scary thing about these engines is that the rings get sludged and stuck (even after Toyota's "improved" pistons/rings for 2010). So any of them with 100K+ miles have been run low on oil by the customer, meaning it's often hard to distinguish cam phaser knock from cam bearing or rod bearing slap. Plus the pistons will "wipe" the hatch marks at certain points in the cylinder bore, meaning there's no fix for the oil consumption even if you re-ring them. It's a mine field trying to "fix" these, but congrats on getting that one back to running condition!
Thank you for the info on these three Camry videos. I just rescued a 2010 LE from my neighbor with all the symptoms described. Find the squirrel living in the back seat and we are good to go.
A one man band; with a brilliant, mechanical mind.
It’s amazing why people bring you their cars to be fixed from all over creation from different states .
It's understandable, not amazing.
Damn good job...Dealer would have told him that he needed a new Engine...Oh, by the way, we have a brand new Toyode Camry right out front...we will give you a deal on a trade in.
Tech tip: Not your issue but another rattle on those engines is the balance shafts in the oil pan. They rattle at idle in gear. The more accessory load the louder they are. Also rattle just off idle briefly when accelerating. They also known to use oil.
Very nice,,,,,,,,,,,,but wait ! No encore ---no bonus footage
I wanted to know about the mystery control valve also.
Timely video Ivan! My ex wife just bought a 2011 Camry from one of her Jiu Jitsu students, joined the military, and is gone for a couple years. I am going to have to familiarize myself with its typical issues I'm afraid. Extremely low miles, Southern car, always garaged, owned by his grandparents, pristine inside and out. I told her, if she didn't buy it from the guy, I was going to. It's a Unicorn. Not looking forward to phaser replacement! Thanks for the video. Now I know what I need to prepare for.
If you got one of the cars with the 2GR engine, this will not happen. You should check the power steering return line, because it's probably leaking a tiny bit.
Ex for a reason?
I like to see you take one apart to see what's inside a cam phaser
A grinder and paint makes me the welder I ain’t. Keep going, welding experience is measured by the mile.
You meant Grindr
Ummm....when did he weld in this video?
It's, "a little putty (or modeling clay :->) and paint..."
Regarding Toyota parts it’s cheaper if you order them online from the dealer that phaser discounted for $324 plus $21 shipping if you can pick it up then you save the shipping.
Nice job👍
If you go to actuation test on the vvt, then the live data will show the position. I usually just phase it 1 percent to view the live data.
Truly enjoyed your video and sleuthing to remedy the problems. What was especially notable was that you took the time to clearly diagnose each issue and not guess. Thank you.
I have a 2011 with the 2 AR FE, VVTi solenoid went out at 210k miles (hwy mostly), never knew she was excessively burning oil. Those issues are oil starvation related because of the defective piston rings those engines have. After monitoring the oil consumption, I noticed that she burns 1 qtz every 7-800 miles. All I do now is adding 1 qtz every 500 miles and I live with it, changing the oil/filter every 3k miles unlike the previous 5k miles interval. The rattling sound at start has been going since the car was new and usually quiets down (at start) after an oil change then gets louder over time until the next oil change. Still great engines, very smooth and good mpg.
Im surprised at that oil consumption levels its not clogging the cat.
6:20 @@peglegtooThat's actually the next CEL I'm expecting to get. I don't know if highway commuting might have a protecting effect to some extent delaying the cats failure (high exhaust flow velocity). Hopefully, it doesn't happen before my MA state emission inspection in Nov lol
@@BT-zw2ix If you're handy you could have a small straight pipe made up or get a cheap aftermarket cat from canada and remove your factory cat and only reinstall it to get thru inspection hence preserving it from annual oil damage.
@@peglegtooIt's like you read my mind lol. When the 3 cats went out on my 01 Lexus GS 300, I bought aftermarket ones from Flowmaster out of Canada actually and they worked great until I let the car go, I think that's the option that I'll be going with.
Great video, Ivan! U put the phaser on "stun." 🤣 Shame on Toyota, highly illogical. Glad to see u use OEM's all the time.
I owned a 97 4cyl Camry & would STILL have it if it didn't rust out in WPA w/265,000 miles. Ran like a top! Your job nicely done! Already sub'd, gave u a 👍.
PS. That cam area was pretty clean. Good to see that they change oil frequently. 🖖
My friend has a 2010 Toyota Camry and he started getting a rattle on a cold start and a slightly extended crank when starting too. Surprisingly no check engine light and he has had the noise for a few months now. Ill be checking it out this week. This video will be a great guide.
Great diagnosis Ivan and good application of your prior knowledge in fixing this issue. I like particularly that you are always trying to save the customer $$$ by not just firing the Psrts Cannon at things. Good work.
Ivan i got a chuckle out of you beating that vvt solenoid out of its socket with a claw hammer and claw tool. I thought it must be out of round somehow then realized it was stuck by well done light oil which also jammed the spool valve. Then owner did the old trick of putting in new oil before taking it to the mech. That car takes 0w20 oil whereas my wife's 2004 Camry says 5w30. Both 4 cyls. Did Toyota change engine tolerances on later engines or is that change a govt bureaucrat deciding lighter oil saves fuel? At the cost of shorter lived engines. You're right about the cam phaser, $500 is an outrageous rip off. Toyota should sell them at cost since thats a weak point in those engines.
I know the guy is a student and that we have all been there, but this is one of the cheapest vehicles to own/maintain so even with an expensive phaser and an official Denso coil plus your labour to diagnose and repair the vehicle it's still worth it and I'd much rather a 2010 Toyota with these bulletproof simple to repair/fix engines that go on forever with minimal required than some of the newer junk on the road. (Not that newer Toyota's are junk, but the older ones are better). Good job Ivan!
They're absolute junk. And you're a moron, congrats!
Great case study and diagnosis
This is a remake that is as interesting as the original 🙂 Great job, Ivan! Too bad it needed the phaser, or it would have been a relatively inexpensive repair.
Can't wait for the next video
👍
WISE,Ivan,Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics
Brilliant video tutorial great
Take care,lvan,Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics
From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧 ⏰️ 20:36pm Good Evening
I use a power probe with bulb attached between power probe so I can use with the probe power switch and see voltage and do it safely eliminate more test wiring.
Toyota oil control solenoids are a very tight fit, any oil varnish makes removal difficult. I have had to remove the valve cover and tap them out from the inside out using a wooden dowel and a hammer.
Just bought a 2006 Corrolla wagon 362,000 klms on it no codes ,I looked at live data throttle position sensor slightly out of range. Will fix it when it fails altogether.Cheers Ivan.
As said before. This is an insane world. Good to see you Ivan.
Muy bueno. Still have the po302 on my 2006 Subaru sti. Did all I could. Taking to shop
Don't tell Scotty!
Great video. Great diagnosis. Why wouldn't those three P0015's clear? Did they clear themselves once the job was done? It would be nice to see a post mortem on the old phaser. As it's a common problem, which bit inside fails and what is rattling when you shake it?
@@richardhemingway6084 yup once the cam is in time, no more codes. Phaser completely grenades inside... 😄
2016 camry 2.5, intake phaser rattle, I'm doing a complete timing set with both phasers, 77k miles. win some you lose some.
That's a little premature 😅
I like how he always shows the repair. I don't want to see the end product fix. I want to see it getting fixed. Thanks Ivan.
What part did you not see????
there is a trick to remove the stuck boots from multipliers that stay on the spark plugs, you put logo glue on the end of the multiplier where the boot fastens, you put it on the spark plug, you put it in front of the car to warm up and the glue dries and when you pull the multiplier, the boot comes out because it has it's stuck on the multiplier, it's been tested and it's always been successful
I prefer to glue a yellow legal pad to the crank pulley.
Then do some multiplication on my abacus, then reverse it by division.
The, I start the engine, hold it on the rev limiter.
By God, that legal pad flies right off like it was never there, every single time.
All done.
Well done Ivan, as always
Don't forget you can active test the cam phasers first before removing anything
That charger is sweet. Jake was able to use his to monitor a weird headlight and brake light activation overnight on a Ford truck. That diagnosis still blows my mind.
seen that one too, and mario has a beat-up one and they just gave him the 120,000 topdon
Toyota only checks base cam timing(phasers locked )under certain conditions, if memory serves me right it's after a certain drive time then after a certain idle time. I believe it's because base cam timing is not optimal idle cam timing. when my 2010 RAV4 timing chain stretched the engine would run perfect after clearing the cam/crank correlation code for a 10 mile test drive and only set the code after like the 3rd stop sign or traffic light.
Would like to have seen more of the phasor replacement process! Still a good video, thanks.
Seconded
Good job Ivan. That seems to be a pattern problem with those older Toyota's.
This is a good video to save for the future.
2010 im sure a standard motor phaser would work just fine. INA makes good phasers also
Why can't people understand. Oil changes are way cheaper than engine repairs, Full Stop!!!
Blackstone has free oil analysis kit that costs 30 bucks To send back for analysis, I feel like that might be a good middle ground because you can find out if an extended oil change is acceptable and then save Money and Resources by avoiding unnecessary oil changes. And since a full synthetic oil change can cost so much 30 bucks isn't much to ask for detailed analysis.
I have heard they can also analyze oil filters and sometimes those can last more miles than 1 oil change. I guess that is helpful for a person who drives a ton of miles within the 1 year lifetime of an oil filter.
That engine hardly looks like it has suffered from lack of oil changes.
@@baker1271 exactly, there is a distinct lack of oil varnish on that top end. Oil changes are not to blame here.
Ivan your the man well done job as always enjoy lol on the bill part .
the 2ar-fe is more known for the intake phaser. That is the rattler. when I did the timing chain and phasers on my 2010 RAV4 the only TSB that I could find was for the intake phaser, but my exhaust phaser was damaged in a similar fashion to this one, though mine wasn't broken internally, just the shield around the spring was coming out.. This problem with the exhaust phaser is a known problem with a TSB for the 2gr-fe.
I love the Platinum S10. Awesome scan tool and very fast. I got the one that came with the touchscreen J box. It’s my favorite scan tool and my go to at the moment.
Nice and smooth as always, for that reason you are my preferred mechanic on YT!
fixmyrideai AI fixes this. Camry stalls, rattles loudly.
Can’t kick a whole lot on 190K . All of them have various issues at times, but I would still choose Toyota over anything else. That one looked like it had pretty descent maintenance , but most often these problems are related to poor maintenance . Nice work Ivan. 👍👍🇺🇸
That engine looked like it had great maintenance, no residue discoloring the valve train when Ivan has the valve cover off, so this engine should keep on kickin for another 100k+ if the new owner keeps up with maintenance.
I work at the factory that builds the Camry. have been there since 2005. Something doesn't seem correct at all about that solenoid. Since you had all that trouble removing it. They were super easy to install. But good job none the less.
@@slocavky lots of things are super easy at the factory but not after a few miles ,like the super brittle electrical connectors.
The orings get super hard that's why the vvti valves are hard to get out
Nice work, Ivan. Keep up the great videos. I always learn things, watching your videos.
Hi Ivan, I was wondering if you could possibly try teaching the crickets to serenade together in unified concerto. Possibly even to be used as background music. They seem to want to sing!!
another good showing and a another bad part.
I bet you forgot to plug in that crank sensor on purpose so it could build proper oil pressure before starting dry ;)
Excellent video btw, great diagnosis!
Good call priming the phaser before plugging in the CKP sensor. An m12 battery also works great for checking the OCV (VVT) solenoid.
as in a Milwaukee drill,3/8 drive impact and/or flashlight battery ?
Ivan took that first bolt out with a wrench reminded me of the way we did it back in 90's.
70s
I thought about a former boss I had if he were to see me do that he would be over my shoulder complaining about how slow im going.
@@dalelangila9274 lol - 60s
So the coil packs were Denso, Denso, Denso, done-zo. Makes for an easy diag when it just falls apart like that!
@ 10:37 -----> oooooooo .... you mixin' that 5w-30 w/ the oil fill recommendation 0w-20 🤣🤣
@ 22:45 ------> OOOOPS!!
He only lubed the o-ring with the 5w-30.
@@johnz8210 Yeah, I get it....just funnin' Ivan.
I didn't know the 2010-11 models had cam phaser issues. My neighbor has a 2008 that apparently has bad piston rings. It burns oil and smokes on startup. I understand that was an issue on the 2008-09 models. I learned that from some guy that waves his arms and often says car companies may be going bust. At 20:35, "This sprocket/phaser retails for over $500.00. C'mon, Toyota!" Ya know, it could be worse. LOL. Aren't you glad your Mercury doesn't have variable valve timing? GREAT VIDEO!
There was a warranty extension back in the day to tear the engine down and replace the piston and rings with redesigned ones , have a 09 that now has 280k on it was done at 135k the car is a tank
@@jjoop Precisely; that appears to be a recurring theme with Toyota. I heard they are going to need to replace 102,000 engines in their Tundra pickup. At least they do make it right.
@@lvsqcsl You gotta be lucky enough to get that done before the expiration, though
Common practice with Toyota.. Raise price on parts that frequently fail! Many years ago Camry steering shaft U joints one inside and the one under hood. The under hood joints began failing in rust belt. Toyota quickly doubled the price. Basically almost the same parts.
My buddy who usually buys Lexus claims that they. Use lower grade parts because if you can buy a Lexus you can afford to replace parts.
@@Don_Iocco I feel like they wouldn't want to use lower quality parts that break constantly because the owners will get mad and buy it from another brand. But maybe most new car buyers trade in to a new Lexus so it doesn't matter if Lexus uses weak parts, it won't break before most owners trade it I.
Very nicely completed Ivan.
Im going to do what axl guy did and make an electric turbo, I think that is the future for sure, going to couple it with a 48V100AH battery the question is would there be a way to get the car to use an electric turbo in a fashion similar to a normal turbo or will it basically just be a simple circuit of off and on, id rahter have it react to the engine as opposed to a on and off max blast kind of thing.
Good old old cars you can't beat them I bet if that was a stupid modern smart charger alternator his battery would probably have been wasted plus the topdon tornado charger sounds amazing
I thought it was the intake vvt gear that rattles on start up. My 2011 camry is just starting to rattle.
your attention to detail is amazing who else was working on this car before you got it
With Toyota engines of this generation I assume a used one needs either the intake phaser. Replaced 3 already on the 1.8L engines on the 2009/2010 Pontiac Vibe cars. I don’t touch the 2.4L versions due to the oil burn problems they have.
Great job as usual
Great diag, the Toyota ones are always more entertaining for some reason lol
If it wasnt the phaser where would you have channel your next energy to in troubleshooting.
Well done, easy peasy!
Did you not notice the broken coil unit the first time Ivan ...
I think the boot ripped when I took it out to remove the valve cover...JUNK!
I remember when Toyotas entered the states,anglos cdlled them " Rice Burners "
The funny thing is how much things have changed, many toyotas, Hyundai, etc. are made in America while the American brands might be made outside of America.
This vehicle is obviously low on blinker fluid. Come on Ivan. You're such a rookie. Lol
Using a current limiting series lamp is a great idea for automotive, as it is widely/universally used for equipment repair/testing to prevent stuff from going “bang”, in the event of short circuits and ground faults.
There's always a possibility that a coil has a back-emf diode. Connect the leads the wrong way, you may cause the diode to short without some kind of current limiter.
I'd still like to see you do a q and a ask me anything kind a video. You're a fascinating kinda fella Ivan.
Love your videos. I have learned a lot. Im from Puerto Rico and i was call to fly to Pennsylvania and i said OMG this guy is from there. Im working in Lycoming but i think its to far to meet you. Blessings man
Lycoming Engine Plant is only an hour from me...very neat place!
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics yeah definitely. It would be great to meet you someday
Almost $500 just for the phaser is ridiculous. Surely there has to be a lower cost after market replacement that isn't cheap quality.
9 times out of 10 those vvt solenoids are so stuck they break inside. Happened to me enough 😢
Well done Ivan 👍
Good video Ivan. I don't have any friends so I'll share it here that I got defeated by my Acura MDX trying to do both a bank 1 (between engine and firewall) catalytic converter and passenger axle at once the other day. Got everything figured out except I'll have to replace my lower control arm because the discontinued the rubber boot for the lower ball joint and I split it because a pickle fork was the only thing that could separate the knuckle from the control arm.
Next time try a pitman arm puller and or hammer.works on some Honda/Acura.
@@johnstuchlik5828 Unfortunately on this one the axle is directly above the threaded portion of the ball joint. The Autozone separator tool was not up to the task and just kept shooting off at mach 5. The Honda/Acura version of the tool shown in the service manual looked more up to the task
That's a difficult arrangement for shure.i did a boot on Honda pilot and used a partial threaded nut on ball joint to protect thread and then hammer one or more large chisel between nut and outer cv joint to wedge off.have also used a fork type separator some time with chisel in same location.good to use a nut you don't care about.have not verify the fork will work in that location on the acura.sounds like you did what you could at the time.perhaps you can add grease to the split boot to prolong the life of joint.grease injector.some work better than others.i hope this actually helps you I forgot how your Acura was made.now if you want a real challenge take a fusion apart with two lower control arms w/o damage.
Nice video.
The $500 part - it is a precision machined and carefully engineered device.
Not long ago $100 was a decent amount of money. Now we can spend that in a convenience store. Or buy 8 cheeseburgers.
$500 isn't what it used to be.
Wow!
Can the scan tool you have actuate the solenoid for you ?
Familiar territory for me once again, but my luck is good this time. The wife's Camry has about 214,000 miles now, but it's an 07 model. Great job by Ivan once again!
You could have said a cam actuator I kept wondering what the phaser are. Here in Nigeria or what I have heard it been called is vvt actuators
Seen a few of those cars with broken chains. Kinda risky changing just the phaser, I would sell them on a new chain and tensioner as well❤
Toyota chains are solid. You haven't seen many or any break on one.
@@bertblue9683Just had a 12 Camry towed out with a broken chain? 0:04
@@bertblue9683 what?
Wow, really? Like snap in half?? I've never seen that happen on any vehicle...well only once with an aftermarket Cloyes chain lol
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics yes, when they run them out of oil and the cam seizes in the aluminum head
Ivan, why, when you discovered that the solenoid was stuck, did you not assume that was the problem?
@@ThatEEguy2818 I don't assume anything 😄
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics you didn't swap it out for a new one. Why aren't you concerned that it'll stick again?
@@ThatEEguy2818 eh I don't like to waste customer's money unnecessarily. If it sticks again, it's super easy to replace! Has been fine for 2 months now 😁👍
Would a bore scope help in assessing the solenoid "tunnel'?
probably a piece of silicone, o-ring or carbon stuck in it. probably also why it was stuck in the bore.
edit: or broken phaser it seems. 🤣
Is it the right one
Awesome video, thanks Ivan.
The wound spring of the phaser can only take so much fatigue?
one of the downsides of variable valve timing.
I have a 2011 Camry that is making "rattling" noises in the top end. Would a bad phaser cause this?
Probably hasn't had regular oil changes.
Have'nt seen the notebook in a while..🤔
Thanks Ivan!
Ваня привет !!!! Всегда лайк до просмотра !!!! Молодец !!!!! Мой Лексус что ты сделал ездит и все хорошо !!!!! Спасибо тебе большое!!!!!
@@СашаКучеренко-з7д 😎👌
Shouldn't that solenoid be soaked with oil.