Hey all, if youd like to learn how to bleed your brake system all alone, watch my new video here! In depth and well explained! th-cam.com/video/e1RWLMQ5FBo/w-d-xo.html
Grandad taught me this decades ago. He had a one man auto repair shop, it's how he did all brakes and clutches. Good demonstration. Old school trickery there.
Man, Thank God I saw your video. I've been battling my hydraulic clutch problem for about a week. Thanks to you I've solve my problem within 30 minutes. Thanks again
For anyone else watching this....I used 1/4" clear tubing from tractor supply found in their plumbing section for $3.99. Worked perfect! Great vid bro!
DOes the tubing fit tight? like create a seal on the bleeder fitting? if it doesn't create a seal, the bleeder will suck air... The hose I had was too big..lol heading into town to get a smaller hose. :)
Thank you Rabid Jz, having just replaced the clutch slave cylinder on my ’73 Series III Landrover I wasn’t particularly looking forward to bleeding the system but I carried on. After much research and a few failed attempts I had just about given up and decided to have a real mechanic do the job when I came across your video - I tried the method you described. In about 15 minutes, with no fuss or bother, I had my clutch pedal working as it should - thank you for taking the time to make the video.
2015 golf, been having intermittent clutch sticking issues, been pumping and opening the bleeder and getting sprayed all over. Worked a few times but Now the problem isn’t going away. Will try this method today and return with an updated comment.
It worked, then this morning it failed again. Has to be a leak somewhere, probably the slave which unfortunately is internal on the car and a very costly garage bill. Great
Kudos! This is one of the best videos on youtube on how to bleed a clutch line by yourself properly! Many videos leave out things. Basically, and Simply, you bleed your clutch like you bleed your brakes but it's way faster. Other videos show guys pumping fluid out with a hose that is not going into fluid. Always have your fluid being bleed into fluid. This keeps a closed system and cuts down on major headaches.
Honestly no idea what i was thinking in why the realization just wasnt grasping with my brain until i seen how you had it all laid out that of course this is easy to be able to do yourself honestly the idea of attaching the hose and leaving it set in fluid and releasing the air i think people have been trying to explain that but until i physically seen it in this video i thought everyone was saying to do something diff that made no sense but thank you for showing this it did help slap some common sense and knowledge back in my face today
Dude I will be trying this on the weekend. Iv got to put a new master cylinder in my van and have been dreading the clutch bleed. This video is a god send. Thanks bro
I'm about to try this. I also appreciate your step by step tutorial as I now have a better understanding on how to do it and am now confident in doing so myself. Thank you
Right on man. Thank you. I always do my own repairs on my Maxima and sometimes help is hard to find. I dread changing the clutch master and slave cylinder. Your video gave good advice, a new lesson, and inspired me to get this done without the help of another person. Thanks again cheers
This is a top video for a reason.. takes two seconds thank god for you man.. and also doubles as a flush I extracted lots of first fluid from the parts.
Thanks for actually showing me a video on what I asked for. Fully understand where the bleeder line was and how to do it. I know how to bleed brake lines but I know where those are. Just needed to know where the clutch line was. 👍
Thank you so much for making this, you saved my ass this morning and let me get to work on time. Keep up the great work and good job being straightforward with the tutorial .
Just used your method on my Nissan Hardbody, albeit much more of a pain in the ass with the D21 bleed valve being on the firewall behind the coiled clutch lines, worked like a champ!!! Brakes are next using the same method.
the latest & greatest tech always involve extra time and effort when adapting from traditional setups. Creating a "pedal stopper" for fear of "blowing out the hydraulic throw bearing or damaging the pressure plate teeth"... hot damn lol
To really bleed a clutch system of ALL the air there’s a lot of tricks. Here’s a few I found that helped. Bench bleed the master cylinder on the car. But jack the front end up high as possible to tilt the master.. this can get a lot of the air out. Then I like to do a few press and holds. Crack the slave.. but once you aren’t seeing bubbles don’t stop.. with the pedal held in unbolt the slave and push in the piston while cracking the bleeder.. you’ll get out even more air.. then re attach the slave and do a few more press and holds. Remember clutch system is different then brake. Pumping up the clutch may feel like your building pressure, but your only stirring up the air.. one press and hold per bleed is all you need and pressure in the pedal will not increase much until all air is out and you close the bleeder and pump it up. Last is leaving the bleeder open with a hose and bottle set up and pumping out the air and just adding fluid to master until all air is gone..
@@layne7742 depends on what I’m doing.. i found bench bleeding the master on the car To be easier,, but you get better results if it’s off the car… problem is trying to re install that master when it’s full of fluid… can be super difficult… so I leave it on the car and jack up the front end high as I can… ( to tilt the master) what are you needing help with?
@@Turtlefarm I’m doing a 61 c20. The clutch shares the master with the brakes, and this old thing has been sitting awhile so I rehabed the master and the bleeder already, about to remove the slave now to inspect and probably blow out the line
@@layne7742 if the slave is leaking definitely worth swapping it out too.. I also found that filling the revisor from the slave gets best results… takes forever…. But almost guarantees no air… I attached a line to the bleeder… filled a syringe with brake fluid.. cracked the bleeder and pumped up the fluid… plus helps you see the slave under pressure… ( leaking seals/banjo bolt)
Thanks dude! Sometimes we all need TH-cam to jog our memory a bit in my case you reminded me of the self bleeder Gatorade bottle i too made whild ago to do my brakes but I forgot that it will also work for the clutch!! 😅
I just put a splitter into reservoir, one connected to line, the other with bleeder. I learned it works on either end. I put mine near the reservoir, then just pump and open to bleed it, like a brake line, you can even use the hose, and fluid in container to bleed yourself.
My clutch pedal is way too light all the way to the floor but travels back to the up position. I suspect the Slave cylinder is busted because the bottom of the transmission where it is located is leaking. But if the slave cylinder is busted how is the clutch pedal returning back to the up position if there is such pressure loss? I will hopefully know tomorrow but I was interested in any input. Thank You preemptively.
I was trying the worst way witch was pumping the clutch holding it open then bleeder then close when I found this an tried I was mad at my self for not finding this but I felt a whole a lot more relief when it shifted perfect
I just replaced my master clutch cylinder. I do this process and bleed from slave but once all air is out pedal sticks to the floor and doesn't pop back up. What is causing this?
thanks, I tired 2 man method bleeding the slave cylinder. I see some people comment that it may need to be bench bled. I'm going to try your method now to see if it will work first. thanks again
hi new to the channel, your comment in the end putting a pedal stopper did i miss something, is there a stopper i need to remove before i start anything,, ultra noob here lol
No no. Don't worry about it. Those comments were for my subscribers that follow my builds. Don't worry about that you don't have a stopper, nor will you need one
with brakes the fluid will just flow with gravity, you don't even need to step on the pedal. There is some debate that without the turbulence created by pushing the pedal air bubbles can cling to the inside if calipers or wheel cylinders but it is an option.
Thanks Sir! So we should fully open clutch bleeder valve and let it gravity feed through clear hose with old junk fluid to the bottle, and then do clutch work to burp the bubbles? BTW is your bottle vented or it is hermetically closed? Thanks
Hey I got a 96 Chevy s10 2.2L with no clutch pressure. I tried bleeding it the traditional way me and a friend he pump the clutch 10x and hold it while I break the bleeder but that didn’t work at all ! My question is do I need to remove the top on the clutch master cylinder while I try your method?
I have this squeak coming from somewhere when I engage the clutch. At times, I can spray so much grease on it that the squeak goes away, but always comes back and hinders the clutch rebound. I can’t find anything on this on TH-cam or even Jeep threads. I am at such a loss. 2011 sport.
Nice video! My client's own had a similar issue so I bleed the clutch and still to no avail. I've even replaced only the kit inside the upper clutch but the problem of a sponge clutch and no gear still persist. I've checked scrutingly for signs of leakage carefully while someone and found out that the down clutch nipple doesn't hold clutch hydraulic fluid! It goes out gently, and also the clutch fluid was replaced with a new one. Nevertheless, it's still very darkened in color. Please, how do I fix the issues? Darkened fluid, soft clutch pedal, and a most especially the leak at the down clutch bleeder or nipple.
Hey I have a question with this method still flush the old fluid out even with fluid in the bottle or is it just for air bubbles as the fluid in my is horrible id like to flush it on my own thanks
Hi! i just have a question, I replaced the master cylinder for the clutch so my whole system is empty which mean my paddle sinking all the way and doesn’t go back up. So do I do the same process as this until the paddle getting hard again? Thankyou
Dude. Id love to have your opinion. Our clutch has been in the shop like six times now. Theyre either screwing us, or its broken. Im not sure which. But tomorrow Im going to do this. And we shall see.
I replaced the clutch master cylinder on a 2010 Jeep Compass and I went to bleeding it like you explained but I'm still having no clutch pedal pressure.
thank you so much for making this, had to replace a master and slave cylinder and if i hadnt come across this video i woulda had to take it to a shop to bleed it smhhhhh
just put a new master and slave in my patrol clutch, note you beaut super heavy duty clutches need new hydrolics as well. i will try this tomorrow as its raining now and my car is stuck on the street.
Is the hose primed with fluid? I started with a clear hose. Pumping the pedal the jar fluid try’s to work its way to to bleeder but never gets there. Thanks for the video and help with comments!
@@RabidJz I’m getting just a little fluid after opening the bleeder . Pump the pedal down lots of air, pedal back up fluid gets sucked up but only goes so far. Several pumps seems to get all the air out but there’s always that trapped pocket of air in the plastic tube.
So my system still has air in it but this isn’t working for me. I love the idea and really think it will but any tips for that? I’m just new too this and don’t know how to fix it
Question, I just got my clutch replaced, new master and slave cylinders and resurfaced flywheel, my clutch pedal feels spongy when I press it and it releases slowly, could this be the solution?
@RabidJz Ok now how do you build pressure? I did this and it worked to get air out but my clutch pedal feels so light that I feel like I can shift gears without the pedal. How do you build pedal pressure as a one man team?
@@RabidJz Yeah I finally got my car back on the road today after it being down for 2.5+years. I havent driven stick in that long as well so my instinct for clutch pressure on the pedal was off. After driving around town all day with it I realized it was fine.
what was that imprortant detail you glossed over about installing a clutch stopper so you dont destroy your bearing? Sounds kinda important what are you talking about?
Well it's not exactly for the bearing. If you have a shimmed throw out bearing it can increase distance it presses on the pressure plate teeth. If you're shimmed too much and you have a long clutch pedal throw, the bearing can press the feet into the disk or bend them passed their limit, causing lots of damage. My situation, I found where there was a safe area the car can get into gear and when it engages and knocked out 2 inches of travel with the stopper
Sup bro! Thanks for vid. At the end (the last clutch press) u say to make sure the clutch is fully up before closing the valve otherwise it creates a vaccum. Can u explain what exactly would happen if the clutch would pressed down while valve is closed? I had mine bled and only when i am going to first turn on thr car the clutch will not go up, i have to manually pick it up. Once the car is on and running the clutch works perfectly fine (goes up and down as normal). Could this be happening due to clutch not being brought back up to normal position before closing valve under car?
That's what happens. If you dont pull the clutch up before tightening the valve, there will be a vacuum in the system. So when you press the clutch in, it equalizes and the pedal wont come up.
@@calebakers4803 mine waa the master cylinder doing that, replaced and bled multiple times and still kept doing that, it ended up being the new replacement was defective
Okay so basically put a hose on the bleeder, fill up a bottle with brake fluid make sure the hose in the bottle is submerged in the fluid and keep pumping the clutch u till the pedal has pressure again?
@@RabidJz thanks man ima try this as soon as i get home from work. Was trying to bleed it last night but everytime i would pump the clutch than loosen up the bleeder no fluid would come out. But thanks man your video is very informative!
Yeah i have a 2002 nissan frontier that's a 5 speed and my pedal has no pressure so I replaced my slave and master cylinder and bled some of the air out using the other bleeding method, so I might try this. And will it get all of the air out of my clutch line?
Hey all, if youd like to learn how to bleed your brake system all alone, watch my new video here! In depth and well explained!
th-cam.com/video/e1RWLMQ5FBo/w-d-xo.html
Grandad taught me this decades ago. He had a one man auto repair shop, it's how he did all brakes and clutches. Good demonstration. Old school trickery there.
lmfao when people say were not gonna need engineers because there will be so many robots xD
Why are you here if you already know?
Everyone should sub lol
@@PastorOfMuppetsVIVIVI but he doesnt subscribe
@@daikoku9747that’s what I was wondering
I will be trying this later today. Bless you for this young man.
This old lady is following you now.
Man, Thank God I saw your video. I've been battling my hydraulic clutch problem for about a week. Thanks to you I've solve my problem within 30 minutes. Thanks again
Awesome man, glad it could help. I didnt think this video would be so loved
@@RabidJz And the l
For anyone else watching this....I used 1/4" clear tubing from tractor supply found in their plumbing section for $3.99. Worked perfect! Great vid bro!
DOes the tubing fit tight? like create a seal on the bleeder fitting? if it doesn't create a seal, the bleeder will suck air... The hose I had was too big..lol heading into town to get a smaller hose. :)
Thank you Rabid Jz, having just replaced the clutch slave cylinder on my ’73 Series III Landrover I wasn’t particularly looking forward to bleeding the system but I carried on.
After much research and a few failed attempts I had just about given up and decided to have a real mechanic do the job when I came across your video - I tried the method you described.
In about 15 minutes, with no fuss or bother, I had my clutch pedal working as it should - thank you for taking the time to make the video.
Thanks man I couldn't get my clutch bled even bought the tool and still nothing . Watch your video and now I got my pedal back ! Bless up 💯
Heck yeah man! Glad I could help
Overthinking has always held me down. The KISS principle has typically always made things much easier to bear .thanx fam
2015 golf, been having intermittent clutch sticking issues, been pumping and opening the bleeder and getting sprayed all over. Worked a few times but Now the problem isn’t going away. Will try this method today and return with an updated comment.
It worked, then this morning it failed again. Has to be a leak somewhere, probably the slave which unfortunately is internal on the car and a very costly garage bill. Great
Kudos! This is one of the best videos on youtube on how to bleed a clutch line by yourself properly! Many videos leave out things. Basically, and Simply, you bleed your clutch like you bleed your brakes but it's way faster. Other videos show guys pumping fluid out with a hose that is not going into fluid. Always have your fluid being bleed into fluid. This keeps a closed system and cuts down on major headaches.
Ya know? Probably watched a good 50 videos on clutch bleeding and I believe this is the one I'll try. Thanks big guy!!
Its the one that'll work too
Simple and to the Point. Its Amazing 👍
I have been fukn with this clutch for 3 days. Tried this ,30 minutes later working great. Better than it ever has. Thanks for the help.
Glad to help! 😁
Honestly no idea what i was thinking in why the realization just wasnt grasping with my brain until i seen how you had it all laid out that of course this is easy to be able to do yourself honestly the idea of attaching the hose and leaving it set in fluid and releasing the air i think people have been trying to explain that but until i physically seen it in this video i thought everyone was saying to do something diff that made no sense but thank you for showing this it did help slap some common sense and knowledge back in my face today
Glad i could help
You nailed it on the head. Exactly the same here. This looks far too simple though!
Too accurate lol
Dude I will be trying this on the weekend. Iv got to put a new master cylinder in my van and have been dreading the clutch bleed.
This video is a god send.
Thanks bro
Takes 5 minutes if you know exactly where the bleeder is
I'm about to try this. I also appreciate your step by step tutorial as I now have a better understanding on how to do it and am now confident in doing so myself. Thank you
Right on man. Thank you. I always do my own repairs on my Maxima and sometimes help is hard to find. I dread changing the clutch master and slave cylinder. Your video gave good advice, a new lesson, and inspired me to get this done without the help of another person. Thanks again cheers
Cheers mate! I really need to bleed my clutch and with this quarantine it's just me at the moment.
Just remember, don't let the hose come out of the fluid
@@RabidJz Thanks, I've just been at down to the store to make sure I have extra fluid.
Been looking for this thanks. Got to replace the master and slave on my Evo X. Btw nice pic xander.
Thanks for this, I pissed around using every other method without success, came across this video, tried and worked a charm. Thanks
This is a top video for a reason.. takes two seconds thank god for you man.. and also doubles as a flush I extracted lots of first fluid from the parts.
Love simple fixs for stuff like this without the need for soecial tools we are told we need. Old school knowledge ❤
Thank you very much for passing along this knowledge Good Sir. In my case it was the slave cylinder on a ‘91 Chevy K1500. Works like a charm!
Thanks for actually showing me a video on what I asked for. Fully understand where the bleeder line was and how to do it. I know how to bleed brake lines but I know where those are. Just needed to know where the clutch line was. 👍
Glad it helped!
Brake fluid, the best paint remover ever
Takes a bit of time. But sure is
Thank you so much for making this, you saved my ass this morning and let me get to work on time. Keep up the great work and good job being straightforward with the tutorial .
Just used your method on my Nissan Hardbody, albeit much more of a pain in the ass with the D21 bleed valve being on the firewall behind the coiled clutch lines, worked like a champ!!! Brakes are next using the same method.
the latest & greatest tech always involve extra time and effort when adapting from traditional setups. Creating a "pedal stopper" for fear of "blowing out the hydraulic throw bearing or damaging the pressure plate teeth"... hot damn lol
Yup. It's a scary time out here lol
Really genius brother 🙌
To really bleed a clutch system of ALL the air there’s a lot of tricks. Here’s a few I found that helped. Bench bleed the master cylinder on the car. But jack the front end up high as possible to tilt the master.. this can get a lot of the air out. Then I like to do a few press and holds. Crack the slave.. but once you aren’t seeing bubbles don’t stop.. with the pedal held in unbolt the slave and push in the piston while cracking the bleeder.. you’ll get out even more air.. then re attach the slave and do a few more press and holds. Remember clutch system is different then brake. Pumping up the clutch may feel like your building pressure, but your only stirring up the air.. one press and hold per bleed is all you need and pressure in the pedal will not increase much until all air is out and you close the bleeder and pump it up. Last is leaving the bleeder open with a hose and bottle set up and pumping out the air and just adding fluid to master until all air is gone..
Are you doing all this while the front end is lifted up? Or just for the beginning?
@@layne7742 depends on what I’m doing.. i found bench bleeding the master on the car
To be easier,, but you get better results if it’s off the car… problem is trying to re install that master when it’s full of fluid… can be super difficult… so I leave it on the car and jack up the front end high as I can… ( to tilt the master) what are you needing help with?
@@Turtlefarm I’m doing a 61 c20. The clutch shares the master with the brakes, and this old thing has been sitting awhile so I rehabed the master and the bleeder already, about to remove the slave now to inspect and probably blow out the line
@@layne7742 if the slave is leaking definitely worth swapping it out too.. I also found that filling the revisor from the slave gets best results… takes forever…. But almost guarantees no air… I attached a line to the bleeder… filled a syringe with brake fluid.. cracked the bleeder and pumped up the fluid… plus helps you see the slave under pressure… ( leaking seals/banjo bolt)
@@Turtlefarm gotcha yeah this slave might be fubar but I’ve gotten worse to work so well see
Does this work for breaks as well
Yes. Have to bleed the farthest from the reservoir first
@@RabidJz how do you bleed that
Worked perfectly for my 97 Ford Ranger, thanks man; cheers.
Any insight on why mine is leaking on the outside of the bell housing
Just subscribed! Quick to the point, I like that. keep up the good work man (:
My car will be quick to the point this year! Hope I can keep you around
For real!!!
Thanks dude! Sometimes we all need TH-cam to jog our memory a bit in my case you reminded me of the self bleeder Gatorade bottle i too made whild ago to do my brakes but I forgot that it will also work for the clutch!! 😅
That’s a really helpful tip bro! Thanks dude! If TH-cam had a cup for coins I’d throw you some big coins.
I just put a splitter into reservoir, one connected to line, the other with bleeder. I learned it works on either end. I put mine near the reservoir, then just pump and open to bleed it, like a brake line, you can even use the hose, and fluid in container to bleed yourself.
My clutch pedal is way too light all the way to the floor but travels back to the up position. I suspect the Slave cylinder is busted because the bottom of the transmission where it is located is leaking. But if the slave cylinder is busted how is the clutch pedal returning back to the up position if there is such pressure loss?
I will hopefully know tomorrow but I was interested in any input.
Thank You preemptively.
what ended up being the cause? i got the same problem
The pedal will come back up becuase of a spring on the pedal itself. An assist as you would call it
I’m curious if a vacuum brake bleeder would work well
I was trying the worst way witch was pumping the clutch holding it open then bleeder then close when I found this an tried I was mad at my self for not finding this but I felt a whole a lot more relief when it shifted perfect
I just replaced my master clutch cylinder. I do this process and bleed from slave but once all air is out pedal sticks to the floor and doesn't pop back up. What is causing this?
Same issues let me know if you resolve this
Did you pull the pedal back up before you tightened the bleeder?
@@RabidJz yes
There's so other issue happening. Make sure the hose is. Completely submerged and youre not leaking or getting air anywhere else
@@RabidJz found out I had a leak in my brake line
thanks, I tired 2 man method bleeding the slave cylinder. I see some people comment that it may need to be bench bled.
I'm going to try your method now to see if it will work first. thanks again
😮omg you just save me a heartache.all that dam time I'm bleeding wrong 😂
hi new to the channel, your comment in the end putting a pedal stopper did i miss something, is there a stopper i need to remove before i start anything,, ultra noob here lol
No no. Don't worry about it. Those comments were for my subscribers that follow my builds. Don't worry about that you don't have a stopper, nor will you need one
bro you the best i just bleed my system now with this method
I will definitely try it. It seems easier than I thought it would be.
Thank you man.. this is GREAT!!!... I'm getting ready to bleed clutch on 97 Toyota Corolla😊
Worked on my g35, lota of dirty fluid came out and now the clutch feels normal
That's what I like to hear
with brakes the fluid will just flow with gravity, you don't even need to step on the pedal. There is some debate that without the turbulence created by pushing the pedal air bubbles can cling to the inside if calipers or wheel cylinders but it is an option.
thank you bro
hugs from Brazil
What tools did you use for this job?
Also make sure to drill a small hole in cap to let air out, so it doesnt build pressure in bottle
Why bother with the lid at all? Would it work to just run the line into the bottle with no cap at all?
@ajhauter5049 the point of the lid is so you don't knock the bottle over and spill fluid
Thanks Sir! So we should fully open clutch bleeder valve and let it gravity feed through clear hose with old junk fluid to the bottle, and then do clutch work to burp the bubbles? BTW is your bottle vented or it is hermetically closed? Thanks
Hey I got a 96 Chevy s10 2.2L with no clutch pressure. I tried bleeding it the traditional way me and a friend he pump the clutch 10x and hold it while I break the bleeder but that didn’t work at all ! My question is do I need to remove the top on the clutch master cylinder while I try your method?
Plain and simple love it can finally do it on my own thanks
Hay Rabid 🐺
Thanks for your info
Have a great rest of your day
That's a very very smart idea I love that high thumbs up
Thank you very much. Your method help 100%.
I have this squeak coming from somewhere when I engage the clutch. At times, I can spray so much grease on it that the squeak goes away, but always comes back and hinders the clutch rebound. I can’t find anything on this on TH-cam or even Jeep threads. I am at such a loss. 2011 sport.
Nice video! My client's own had a similar issue so I bleed the clutch and still to no avail. I've even replaced only the kit inside the upper clutch but the problem of a sponge clutch and no gear still persist.
I've checked scrutingly for signs of leakage carefully while someone and found out that the down clutch nipple doesn't hold clutch hydraulic fluid! It goes out gently, and also the clutch fluid was replaced with a new one. Nevertheless, it's still very darkened in color. Please, how do I fix the issues?
Darkened fluid, soft clutch pedal, and a most especially the leak at the down clutch bleeder or nipple.
How long do you have to pump I’ve been pumping 5 minutes still getting air bubbles
Will this method also fix my clutch pedal only coming up halfway from the floor
Most simplest & easiest way, thank you!
Hey I have a question with this method still flush the old fluid out even with fluid in the bottle or is it just for air bubbles as the fluid in my is horrible id like to flush it on my own thanks
Drain it all out first
Hi! i just have a question, I replaced the master cylinder for the clutch so my whole system is empty which mean my paddle sinking all the way and doesn’t go back up. So do I do the same process as this until the paddle getting hard again? Thankyou
wouldnt you be mixing old dirty fluid with new fluid...?
Dude. Id love to have your opinion. Our clutch has been in the shop like six times now. Theyre either screwing us, or its broken. Im not sure which. But tomorrow Im going to do this. And we shall see.
S14 ftw!!!
I hate this video
@@RabidJz it was informative. That's all that matters bro. Lol
Lol, i need my other videos to be like this one
Where can I get the tube from & how much is it?
Did you bleed the clutch without clutch stopper or leave it on?
I replaced the clutch master cylinder on a 2010 Jeep Compass and I went to bleeding it like you explained but I'm still having no clutch pedal pressure.
thank you so much for making this, had to replace a master and slave cylinder and if i hadnt come across this video i woulda had to take it to a shop to bleed it smhhhhh
Great idea. I think that'll help a lot. Thanks for posting it.
My 89 ford 350 clutch still is tight what I need to do bleed it some more
Awesome video Man
Would this trick work on a Golf 5 too.
just put a new master and slave in my patrol clutch, note you beaut super heavy duty clutches need new hydrolics as well. i will try this tomorrow as its raining now and my car is stuck on the street.
Will it work for a 2012 Chevy Cruze?..I have air and my shifter won't shift into gear..I got a clutch job done and everything new and hooked up right
Is the hose primed with fluid? I started with a clear hose. Pumping the pedal the jar fluid try’s to work its way to to bleeder but never gets there.
Thanks for the video and help with comments!
It should technically gravity feed at first.
@@RabidJz I’m getting just a little fluid after opening the bleeder . Pump the pedal down lots of air, pedal back up fluid gets sucked up but only goes so far. Several pumps seems to get all the air out but there’s always that trapped pocket of air in the plastic tube.
If its in the tube, it doesn't matter. You close the bleeder after lifting the pedal up and the air is out of the system
Yo Rabid is this the same technique for a hydraulic clutch? My clutch system uses the brake fluid from the brake reservoir. It’s a 2002 Saab 9-3
Yes it's all the same
@@RabidJz thanks dude!
Thanks for the very helpful video,
I tried this and it the bottle will just fill with the fluid from the master cyilder how do I fix that
That's the point. You full it till theres no bubbles.
@@RabidJz Ok ill try it agian thank you
I use my wiper fluid hose and put it back when I'm done.
So my system still has air in it but this isn’t working for me. I love the idea and really think it will but any tips for that? I’m just new too this and don’t know how to fix it
If you believe your system has air because of a spongy feeling pedal, then the master could be the culprit
Question, I just got my clutch replaced, new master and slave cylinders and resurfaced flywheel, my clutch pedal feels spongy when I press it and it releases slowly, could this be the solution?
It's always good to rebleed if you suspect it's an issue
@RabidJz Ok now how do you build pressure? I did this and it worked to get air out but my clutch pedal feels so light that I feel like I can shift gears without the pedal. How do you build pedal pressure as a one man team?
The pressure is there after you tighten the bleeder.
@@RabidJz Yeah I finally got my car back on the road today after it being down for 2.5+years. I havent driven stick in that long as well so my instinct for clutch pressure on the pedal was off. After driving around town all day with it I realized it was fine.
Pedal stopper so you dont ruin the bearing? Or ruin your master cyl?
Its specifically to keep my twin disk from. Being destroyed. It can over press the pressure plate feet and hit the disks
what was that imprortant detail you glossed over about installing a clutch stopper so you dont destroy your bearing? Sounds kinda important what are you talking about?
Well it's not exactly for the bearing. If you have a shimmed throw out bearing it can increase distance it presses on the pressure plate teeth. If you're shimmed too much and you have a long clutch pedal throw, the bearing can press the feet into the disk or bend them passed their limit, causing lots of damage. My situation, I found where there was a safe area the car can get into gear and when it engages and knocked out 2 inches of travel with the stopper
Does a clutch stop make the throwout bearings life longer or job easier because it is using less pressure to do its job?
The stop is because of my setup that i described
Just a regular hose ?
As long as it fits tight over the bleeder ?
Yes
@@RabidJz thanks a much
Will this method help me build clutch pressure as well because that’s what I’m struggling on my 350z
The internal slaves on those are terrible. They often have issues
@@RabidJz really any suggestions on how to bleed it there new
What about a Saab 9000 that shares the reservoir with the brake system? Will this method work as well? I was told that it has to be pressure bled.
Only one way to find out
Cheers my bro very well explained
I did this when the bubbles were gone. But it's still super soft?
New slave cylinder and new master cylinder
Do you just leave the bleeder open the whole time and work the clutch rather than holding it down and closing the bleeder?
Yes
Thanks, Fuzzy. Great video.
I may have missed it, but we open the bleeder valve and keep it open the entire time, and then continue with the process?
Yes
Sup bro! Thanks for vid. At the end (the last clutch press) u say to make sure the clutch is fully up before closing the valve otherwise it creates a vaccum. Can u explain what exactly would happen if the clutch would pressed down while valve is closed? I had mine bled and only when i am going to first turn on thr car the clutch will not go up, i have to manually pick it up. Once the car is on and running the clutch works perfectly fine (goes up and down as normal). Could this be happening due to clutch not being brought back up to normal position before closing valve under car?
That's what happens. If you dont pull the clutch up before tightening the valve, there will be a vacuum in the system. So when you press the clutch in, it equalizes and the pedal wont come up.
Will this also fix my issue of my vlutch pedal getting stuck halfway to the floor??
You can try it. But the issue is probably in the slave or master. It won't hurt to try
@@calebakers4803 mine waa the master cylinder doing that, replaced and bled multiple times and still kept doing that, it ended up being the new replacement was defective
Okay so basically put a hose on the bleeder, fill up a bottle with brake fluid make sure the hose in the bottle is submerged in the fluid and keep pumping the clutch u till the pedal has pressure again?
Keep pumping the clutch till there's no bubbles coming from the hose into the bottle. Then tighten the bleeder and the clutch should have pressure
@@RabidJz thanks man ima try this as soon as i get home from work. Was trying to bleed it last night but everytime i would pump the clutch than loosen up the bleeder no fluid would come out. But thanks man your video is very informative!
Just remember to keep the master full, and you'll be good
@@RabidJz when pumping the clutch do i need to keep it pushed in when i tighten the bleeder or let it loose then tighten the bleeder?
Pull the clutch out. Don't leave it pressed in or it won't work
I was like cool til the end when you said something about a peddle stop to not destroy your bearing, wth does that mean lol now I'm worried. Lol
This video was originally not intended for the regular repair folk. That's something you dont have to worry about. Pretend you didnt hear that part
@RabidJz lol good to know, thanks for the reply!
Ally law?
Yeah i have a 2002 nissan frontier that's a 5 speed and my pedal has no pressure so I replaced my slave and master cylinder and bled some of the air out using the other bleeding method, so I might try this. And will it get all of the air out of my clutch line?
Yes. It's important that you pull the clutch back up before you tight the bleeder though
Okay, and if I do it right, then my pedal will come back up to normal without getting stuck halfway?
That is correct.
Will that technic work on a semi truck?
Are you joking or what.
Kinda hard to "bleed" air