I've never felt so eager to want to comment on a video. This was probably the best how to video on cars I've seen as to a complete understanding of the what how and why. I've watched many of videos for wrenching advice and this one actually made me feel educated.
I’ve watched 20 videos on clutch systems, bleeding, fluid change, and yours by far is the most informative. Thanks for the video, makes everything so clear now.
THANK YOU!! My Husband had done this 20 years ago when he worked at the dealership and just needed a refresher.. he read the car manuals, instructions from his off brand part, none mentioned this, but he was certain the bench bleed was needed prior to install to remove air bubbles. I said let's youtube it! So thankful you made this video. This was exactly what he needed to help him with his 1989 Ford XLT Ranger.
I watched countless videos on bleeding the system. I was struggling till I saw your tip on tilting the master back. Air came out right away. Thank you!!!!!!!
Hi Jim, i have been trying to fix and bleed clutch on my 2006 isuzu dmax for two days untill i found this video and it really helped me to fix the problem. Now i have the vehicle running again. Great video thank you very much.
Thanks for the great video. I parked my truck on a really steep hill and pushed my pedal about 20 times . It fixed my spongy pedal. You guys are awesome.
Ok where I live we have plenty of steep mountains so I’m going to try it . You removed the cap on the master ? Do you have to press the clutch petal gently so you don’t lose a lot of fluid. I would hate to get air locked on the side of a mountain 😊 Thanks
Well thanks to your video I finally got my old 91 s10 clutch bled..I just had to take it out and bench bleed it at the angle you stated....This has been a struggle for me and have been putting it off for months, I spent my life working in garages and on junk and never had this much trouble....I had to come find your page so I could thank you...Thank you so much.......
Same here man! 92 f150 making me question everything I thought I knew about cars! I've changed clutches in semi trucks, rebuilt suspension, engines... You name it! But evidently I am a complete failure at the simple task of bleeding a clutch 😂🤣😂 I think trying this will solve it for me.
what do you have to hold at a angle? Have an 89 s10 nothing but problems. But new parts and they go bad way too soon. New fuel pump lasted less than a month! Replaced all components at engine mechanical then the hydrolic stuff goes bad!
Unbolting the master cylinder from the firewall, tipping it back, tapping it on the side and moving the piston in and out similar to the video worked for me. I did this without removing it from the truck.
Can u rebuild a slave cylinder for a 2007 sentra S.E.R spec v? And the box that the spring goes into wont hold the spring tight. How do I fix that problem?
Sorry that should read, would jacking only the front of the vehicle up quite high leaving the back of the vehicle on the ground, do the same thing, tilt the master cylinder enough?
Great video and very professional. I love how you easily explained everything in basic simple English for non-technical folks like me. Thanks for the education!
Awesome video the best l ever seen. You expanded everything where anybody can understand it, and you showed all the components that works properly with a properly bleed clutch. Even gear lever. Showed how to exactly do everything clearly. Yall were like professional teachers teaching a class to students . Super grateful it helped so many people that didn't know what to do after trying everything. Thank you, thank you.
This is great but what if you have hard clutch hydraulic lines and you can't remove the entire system from the truck? Nissan xterras... long runs and it goes up and down between the slave and master ....
Hi - Thanks for watching! That didn't come up in the interview, so I recommend that you check with Precision Clutch about that because they have a vast library of vehicle specific videos and information that should help. Their contact information is in this video's description.
@@WrenchinUpwithJimBates NO worries man, if anyone is reading this it ended up being the slave cylinder was jank, and needed to be replaced, once that was done, two master cylinders worth fluid and pushing fluid up from the slave cylinder (reverse fluid injection), worked amazing. Clutch pedal never felt better NO bubbles in zero seconds
Question. When you remove the clutch pressure line at the Slave Cylinder is the connection a quick sealed connection so air does not enter the line? My guess it is like an air hose coupler fitting. I also think you should use the Phoenix brake and clutch tool to remove any trapped air bubbles by inserting the tapered fitting into the bottom of the Master fluid Orifice to force new clean fluid down into the slave cylinder and open up the bleeder screw to allow any air to escape befor tightening it up again.
Hi - Thanks for watching! Great question - so great that I must recommend that you reach out to Precision Clutch, because they have a vast library of vehicle specific videos and information. Their contact information is in this videos description.
So that's why my slave cylinder didn't wanna bleed because the master cylinder always had that bubble trapped up there makes perfect sense great video and explanation on how the clutch hydrologic system works wth air bubble trapped in it and how to get them out
Hi - Thanks for watching! Being retired I don’t have the latest information, so I recommend that you check with Precision Clutch about this as they have a vast library of vehicle specific videos and information that may be helpful. Their contact information is in the video’s description.
I’d like to see a video on how the typical line connectors work. Especially the big brass one which has no opening! Which was pictured briefly in this video. Thanks
Hi - Thanks for watching! Sorry for the delay in answering. I overlooked your post. The manufacturer has a vast library of videos that may be helpful. Their contact information is in this video’s description.
what did you use to stop the fluid from coming out of the bottom line where the connector that connects to the slave cylinder is. if you fill it up want fluid just run out the bottom if you don't have that connected to the slave cylinder.
I’m driving a Ford kuga 2013 model ecoboost…I had clurch problem decided to buy a new clutch kit but after installing the new clutch kit the clutch pedal does not truck back properly what could be the problem?
Hi - Thanks for watching! Being retired for some time now, I seem to have developed a “rusty thumb”. So I really suggest that you contact Precision Clutch about your problem, because they have a vast library of vehicle specific videos and information that may help. Their contact information is in the video description.
Hi - Thanks for watching! Being retired for a while, I seem to have developed a “rusty thumb” and find that long distance diagnostics is difficult if not impossible. Having said that, I would like to suggest that you contact Precision Clutch because they have an extensive library of vehicle specific video’s and information that you may find useful. Their contact information is in this video’s description.
I have used A vacuum pump and A cap that fits tight over the resivor with A brake bleeder bottle and held vacuum in the system for about 10min and wah-lah that works real good !!!
Hi - Thanks for watching! We didn't have that issue in the demonstration, so I would like to recommend that you check with Perfection Clutch, because they have a vast library of vehicle specific videos and information that might help. Their contact information is in the video's description.
On older model Volvo semi trucks they are bled from the slave cylinder back through to the master cylinder . Use a windshield washer pump , attach line onto bleed screw of slave cylinder . Pump fluid until it overflows from the uncapped master cylinder and tighten bleeder screw .Install cap and tighten . On Chevrolet pick-up trucks it is possible to cross calipers , make sure bleeders point upward .
Can I bleed it without the trans in the truck? Or does everything have to be bolted together? I'm replacing the clutch in my 95 and I dont thing the slave is bad, just has air in it. Basically wondering if I can bleed it while its hangin in place
Hi Thanks for watching! You should be able to if the Master Cylinder is at the highest point. But I recommend that you check with Precision Clutch to be sure because they have a vast library of vehicle specific videos and information on stuff like this. Their contact information is in the video description.
Hi - Thanks for watching! Being retired and a bit behind on things, I would like to suggest that you check with Precision Clutch because they have a vast library of vehicle specific videos and information that you may find helpful. Their contact information is in this video’s description.
Works great if you can remove the entire thing from the car. Most cars I know of seem to have metal lines and are not removable as a sealed assembly or are capable to be installed as a complete sealed assembly.
Hi - Thanks for your comment. Vehicles that allow for the master cylinder to be "tipped up" can use this procedure. Others that cannot will have to use different methods. Check the website in the metadata to see what they recommend for different vehicle configurations. Thanks for watching!
Well this explains why my clutch went limp a few weeks ago and I was only able to get it barely drivable in the parking lot. Guess the seals on the master went bad and let air in once the weather got cold.
If I install a new Master Cylinder Your not supposed to insert the clutch pedal push rod until the entire system has been reinstalled. It is the last thing you reinstall and it locks into place in the master cylinder.If i were to use this method of bleeding the air from a new master then do i need a special tool to releae the push rod after bleeding process and reinsert again as the last item you connect?
Hi - Thanks for watching! Great question, but I must suggest that you reach out to Precision Clutch for the proper guidance, because they have a vast library of vehicle specific procedures that can help here. Their contact information is in this video’s description.
Trying to bleed the clutch on my truck - all hydraulic but the master and the slave are double the size of what’s in the car. I’ve just replaced both the master and the slave, trying to bleed it up but having no luck. The master is mounted vertically and bolted under the pedal assembly with a steel line going to the slave, there is a bleed screw on the side of the master and a nipple on the slave. Which end should I bleed it from, if I were to remove it from the truck it will empty of itself of fluid
Hi - Thanks for watching! Since that didn't come up in the interview, I would like to suggest that you check with Perfection Clutch for this because they have a vast library of specific videos and information. Their contact information is in the video's description.
Hi - Thanks for watching! Some methods recommend that. I suggest that you check with Precision Clutch because they have a vast library of vehicle specific procedures. Their contact information is in the video description.
My frontier has a long, hard hydraulic line only. Seems it can only be bled on the vehicle thru the slave. Am having a hard time getting all the air out of the system. Tried the conventional way, reverse injection, and am still having problems. It's better, however the pedal returns only up until the last inch or so. Any suggestions?
Hi - Thanks for watching! I would like to suggest that you check with Precision Clutch on this because they have a vast library of vehicle specific procedures for things like this. Their contact information is in the video's description.
Hi - Thanks for watching! I don't have the resources to properly answer your question so I suggest you contact Precision Clutch as they have a vast library of repair videos and information that might be able to help you with this. Their contact information is in the video description.
Why would air in the line only affect 1st and 3rd? I am asking because in my subaru i have trouble going into first and 3rd from a stop. I have to press the clutch pedal all the way down to shift into thos gears. I am hoping bleeding the system will do the trick. My clutch was replaced 20k miles ago. A reply would be much appreciated. Thanks!
Hi - Thanks for watching! This could possibly be transmission related as well. I suggest that you contact Precision Clutch because they have a vast library of vehicle specific repair and replacement information. Their contact information is in the video description.
Hi guys great video, you have shown a step by step how the clutch fluid works and also the air that travel in the line it's too often the books and the manuel do not show this at all I have watching so many video's but not beat you guys of make this videos thank you London uk I have vauxhall corsa.
watched your video could you raise the front end of the pickup up high enough to make the slave cylinder angles the opposite direction so you dont have to remove it from the vehicle?
Good Question Vance. I suppose it depends on how high and what might spill or fall out of the vehicle. I think someone said they parked on a steep hill and got the procedure to work. Thanks for watching!
Vance - for the Ford Ranger, the master cylinder passes through the firewall at about a 45-degree angle. The truck would have to be tilted up more than 45 degrees just to make the air bubble flow to the fittings. Even if this could be done, there is a wicked U-bend in the steel pipe that continues to the slave cylinder that can also catch bubbles. I think you would have to put the truck on its roof in order to force the air past the bend to the master cylinder.
Hi - Thanks for watching! Long distance diagnostics is difficult, if not impossible, so I suggest that you check a service/repair manual, make sure everything is mechanically assembled properly (clutch disc is not in backwards, etc.) and then check out the large Precision Clutch video library. They have vehicle and problem specific information there that could help.
I have a 1991 F150. For the past year or more l have considerable difficulty, especially when first started, getting it into 1st or any gear, with grinding, etc.. Also diminished clutch travel. It sounds like an air problem???? What do you think?
Hi - Thanks for watching! I could be, but I suggest that you check with Precision Clutch to be sure as they have an extensive library of vehicle specific information. Their contact information is in the video description.
Hi and thanks for watching! I appreciate your comment but there is not enough information there for me to understand the problem. When you press the clutch what goes in gear - the shifter or the transmission? What's not engaging - the clutch or the transmission gear selection?
Hello, thanks for the video. I have Fiat Bravo 2 1.6 multijet 105hp. From 1-2 weeks I have an issue with the clutch - when I am going on first and reverse gear the car is vibrating and annoying rasping sound is heard on the front of the car. Sometimes I am not even able to shift the gears and when I turn off the car and pump the clutch and then the car start shifting and driving off without vibrations. Could it be a problem with the clutch release bearing? Or because of old brake fluid and air in the system? Thanks in advance!
Hi - Thanks for watching! Since you mentioned that you have to pump up the clutch I recommend that you check for air in the system. Also check out Precision Clutch because they have an extensive library of vehicle specific videos and information that might help. Their contact information is in the video’s description.
Hi - Thanks for watching! Since that didn’t come up in the interview, I suggest that you contact Precision Clutch for the answer because they have a vast library of vehicle specific video’s and information. Their contact information is in the video’s description.
I have a 1999 Saturn that is hard shifting into low and reverse. This has been going on for eight years(my sisters car). Mechanic told her several years ago it was the clutch. A clutch doesn't go "out" for eight years. I replaced the master and slave cylinder two years ago with a pre bled system. Same problem with shifting into low or reverse and the clutch pedal feels soft. Did I get a system that wasn't bled properly? Any input is appreciated. Thank you.
Hi - Good question. Since you did not mention that shifting into other gears was a problem too, I am leaning toward a linkage or possibly transmission issue. But since I'm not an expert in this area I suggest you ask the folks at Precision Clutch about this and I'm sure they will be able to steer you in the right direction. Their contact information is in the video description. Thanks for watching!
The clutch pedal in my 2001 Dodge Neon offers no resistance at all. It just goes to the floor like a limp washcloth. I replaces the master cylinder and the slave cylinder and bled them thoroughly. It still does not engage. What else can I do besides junk the car? I am lost.
Hi - Thanks for watching! If you have already checked for a proper mechanical connection between the clutch pedal and the clutch master cylinder, I suggest that you check with the folks at Perfection Clutch. They have an extensive vehicle specific library of information that may help. Their contact information is in the video description.
I have A 95 s10 been bleeding for a week my pedal feels OK but the clutch isn't disengaging properly when I press the clutch new master an slave do you think your method will help me?
Hi Logan - Thanks for watching! Many people have tried this with success. it is recommended by the clutch manufacturer so I suggest you give it a try. Let us know how it worked for you.
95 f150 same system except resevoir is on master. New master bled and still spngey. Pedal wont come back up and i think i got all the air out. I bled the old way before i found this video. The new master is on the truck. I tried a gravity bleed. Opened bleeder pressed petal got a solid squirt that was it. No more fluid came out and pedal is still down. Any ideas. ??? Im about to return the master as faulty. Would a bleed gun work. Im stuck
Hi - Thanks for watching! I don't have the information here that's needed to help you with this. I recommend that you contact Perfection Clutch as they have an extensive library of vehicle specific video and trouble shooting stuff, as well as a customer service staff. Their contact information is in the video description.
Hi - Thanks for watching! Great question. I recommend that you check with the folks at Perfection Clutch because they are the experts and have a vast library if vehicle specific videos and information on this stuff. Their contact information is in the video description.
Sir i m facing a problem in my skoda fabia 2009 . When i m phushing my clutch to change gear then r.p.m goes high every time. Any suggestion from your side.😐😐😐😐
Hi - Thanks for watching! Long distance diagnostics are difficult, if not impossible, to get it right. But I do suggest checking for codes, IAC, TPS and intake manifold leaks for starters. Assuming your foot is not still on the accelerator pedal during the shift.
I have a 1995 Volkswagen Passat GLX VR6 5 speed, the reservoir that feeds the Clutch Master Cylinder also feeds the Brake Master Cylinder, what is your advice for bleeding the Clutch Master Cylinder without disconnecting the brakes?
Hi Nidia - Thanks for watching and for your question! To get the best and up to date answer I recommend that you ask the folks at Perfection Clutch because they are really the experts on this. Their contact information is in the video description.
out of all the cars/trucks i've had in the past years,none had a hydraulic clutch.my current truck is just an '86 chevy 1/2 ton short bed with a small block chevy engine in it.why did they do something like that at the factory.guess i'll need to do some google searches or check some information on here.
Hi - Thanks for watching and for your comment! Yes, hydraulic clutches have been around for quite a while and I'm sure you will find a lot of good (and bad) info out there in your search.
@@WrenchinUpwithJimBates thank you for replying to my comment,very much appreciated.after watching your video a second time,i just may stick with what's in my truck at present.it seems very easy to do and can't be any worse than having to bleed brakes.the information provided in the video is very helpful and i hope all who watch it,me included, will get something out of it.whether it be their first time or have done this before.once again thanks for posting your video.
Nice video! My client's own had a similar issue so I bleed the clutch and still to no avail. I've even replaced only the kit inside the upper clutch but the problem of a sponge clutch and no gear still persist. I've checked scrutingly for signs of leakage carefully while someone else pressed the clutch pedal and found out that the down clutch nipple doesn't hold clutch hydraulic fluid! It goes out gently, and also the clutch fluid was replaced with a new one. Nevertheless, it's still very darkened in color. Please, how do I fix the issues? Darkened fluid, soft clutch pedal, and a most especially the leak at the down clutch bleeder or nipple.
Hi - Thanks for watching! Being retired and a bit behind the “latest and greatest procedures”, I recommend that you check with Precision Clutch because they have an extensive library of vehicle specific videos and information that may be of assistance to you. Their contact information is in this video’s description.
Question, my friction plate wont disengage when pedal is fully depressed. Flywheel, friction plate, pressure plate and concentric slave + bearring are replaced 2 months ago and have done 2500miles with them without any problem. The problem started occuring when a friend of mine launched my car from a standstill and wanted to shift to 2nd. I've checked the shifting mechanism, bleeded but none worked. In first gear with clutch pedal depressed to the floor and accelerating the car creeps forward when close to redline. The slave cylinder moves out instantly when I'm depressing the clutch pedal, also it doesn't slip What i did notice is the level in the clutch resevoir is decreasing when the pedal is depressed and raises again when releasing (no leaks under the car or at the pedal)
Hi - Thanks for watching! I suggest that you contact Precision Clutch with this because they have an extensive vehicle specific library that should help. Their contact information is in the video description.
GREAT VIDEO !!! I have a 94 ranger and 2 days ago my pedal started to get soft , Now my clutch isnt working at all ...the reservoir was dry ( forgive me, I'm learning as I go here ) do u guys think if I bleed the master ,the function will restore ??? Any help and insight would be appreciated..Just dont want to spend any unnecessary money ...ty in advance...And again , great video!!! I learned so much ty
Hi - Thanks for watching! Since long distance diagnostics can be difficult with a lot of typing back and forth, I suggest that you contact Precision Clutch because they have an large library of vehicle specific videos and information on this subject. Their contact information is in this video's description.
+CBear Gaming - The procedure does apply to all hydraulic clutch systems but because of differences in master cylinder orientation, etc. you may want to go to Perfection's website (their web address is listed below the video) as they have a lot of vehicle specific videos for this procedure and maybe there is one for your vehicle too.
I have a 2002 Corvette with this problem. Do I need to disconnect the master from the slave to remove the air in the master, or can I just remove the master and tilt it as you suggest. Once I have it tilted correctly, when I pump the master will it remove the air even though it is still connected to the slave.
Hi Howard - I would like to refer you to the experts at Precision Clutch for the answer to your question. They have the experience needed here. The contact information is in the metadata below the video. Thanks for watching!
06 chevy colbalt starts but doesnt move. We bought a new clutch but haven't installed it yet. Was wondering if it could be anything else before we fix it?
First of all, thanks for watching! As far as your question though, I would need more information before I could offer any advice, such as when and how did it start doing this, what you have checked already, is the car in gear when it doesn't move, can you get it in gear. etc.
If not bled right will always have a grind i cant really get into gear, but not really a sponge feel nor a grind just an inconsistent of getting it into gear smoothly
Hi - Thanks for watching! Being retired now, I no longer have access to up to date reliable information to help with long distance diagnostics. For that reason, I would like to suggest that you contact Precision Clutch, as they have a vast library of vehicle specific video’s and information can help you with your project. Their contact information is in this video’s description.
What about bleeding the vehicle at an extreme angle? I’ve got a 45* hill I could easily use to accomplish this. Also, the bleed screw on my MR2 is about 6” lower than the slave cylinder itself. This can’t be good, can it? I getting chatter in startup that goes away after a few minutes since I changed the master and slave out.
Wrenchin' Up with Jim Bates I did, sir. Thank you. Can you tell me, is chatter from the clutch on startup a symptom of air in an extremely long hydraulic clutch line? I drive an MR2 Turbo and, because it’s mid-engine, the line is very long. I’m experienced in bleeding techniques, but I suspect the bleeder being lowest in the system may lead to air in the (bleeder less) slave cylinder. Would that cause chatter on startup? Edit: I should mention it shifts normally but this problem started the night I replaced the master and slave with new OEM/Aisen units.
Hi - Based on what I think I know about such things, I would think that the chatter would be there all the time, not just on startup if it caused by air trapped in the system. But again, I think the folks at Perfection Clutch would be the best resource here.
(gravity bleed you said) you left the bleeding screw open for how many hours? also doesn't opening the bleeder screw get air into the system if clutch pedal is not depressed? I'm so confused.
As I have to put in a new master cylinder I can apply this method when it's fitted. At least I can maybe drive the car to have a mechanic bleed the slave cylinder afterwards or do I need to?
Hi - If there were no leaking problems in the system, it should have fluid in the line from the master cylinder to the slave cylinder but I still recommend that you check the service or repair manual for your vehicle to bleed the system using the original equipment manufacturer's step by stem procedure. Thanks for watching!
Great video! The trouble I'm running into is that my brake reservoir and clutch reservoir are the same, so I can't remove the reservoir/ pressure line. That means I have to use a funnel + tubing instead of reservoir + pressure line. This is doable, but then the problem becomes: how do you disconnect the funnel + tubing and then install the cylinder (which is full of fluid) without spilling fluid out of both ports? ... quite the challenge indeed.
Hi - Thanks for watching! I suggest that you contact Precision Clutch because they have an extensive library of vehicle specific videos and information on this. Their contact information id in this video's description.
Hi - Thanks for watching! I suggest that you contact Precision Clutch about this because they have a vast library of vehicle specific videos and information that will probably help you with this.
Hi - Thanks for watching! I suppose it could be either but my guess (because you didn't mention the age of the vehicle or the slave cylinder) is that the slave cylinder was just worn out and needed replacing.
Get the same results putting the car up on ramps. For instance if you want the piston end facing down put the front of the car on ramps and leave the back on the ground with chocks. Can do it in the car without unbolting anything. Works good and its how I've done it in the past.
+Jim Bates Yep perfectionclutch has it spot on, different methods for different machines. By the way thank you for some really informative videos Jim :)
i Have a 1989 Full Size Bronco V8 i am Having trouble Bleeding my New Cylinder & Line, My fluid cup & Master is ONE & the same, what is the best way to Bleed, you only show the cup a short line then the master, Mine is all in one, PLEASE HELP ?
Hi Gary, i have bleed this new clutch the best i can, i can drive it, but the clutch grabs at the very bottom, to get it in reverse or first gear, i must have the peddle pressed into the floor as hard as i can, it is a Bronco 1989 full size 5 speed, my master & cup is set up just like a brake master, but the line comes out of the front of it "master"and goes on a 180 degrees, then goes to the firewall & to the slave, i have done many 4X4 s but never had to replace the line or slave, the only way to get that air out is a vacuum ? and that might not work ? i had this truck since 91' and it always shift VERY WELL , Once i get into first gear & drive it shift into all the gear just like it use to, but getting into first or reverse i have to bury that clutch as far into the floor as possible ,,,
i TALKED TO TONY A WHILE BACK, I WAS TOLD TO NOT REMOVE THE MASTER BECAUSE I WOULD HAVE A HARD TIME GETTING IT BACK IN, I TOOK MY TRUCK TO BILL'S TRANSMISSION IN EASTPOINTE MICH, THEY HAVE A GREAT REP, AND BILL TOLD ME IF I WANTED TO DROP THE TRUCK OFF HE WOULD NEED IT FOR TWO DAYS, I ASKED HOW MUCH WOULD HE CHARGE ? HE CHARGE'S $90.00 BUT HE SAID IF I COULD BRING IT IN HE WOULD NOT CHARGE ME, " IF IT WAS JUST THE BLEEDING " SO I DID HE HAD IT FOR TWO DAY'S, HE CALLED ME & SAID DAN , I THINK IT'S A LITTLE BETTER, MAN WAS I HAPPY, I WENT TO GET IT AND IT WAS THE SAME " HE SAID THAT THEY NEVER HAD MUCH LUCK WITH VACUUM BLEEDING, I GAVE HIM $20.00 BUT IT WAS THE SAME, HE SAID WHEN EVER HE DOES FORD TRUCKS AROUND THE YR OF MINE HE ALWAYS BLEEDS IT AND LETS IT SET OVER NITE & BLEEDS IT THE NEXT MORNING, AND THEY ARE GOOD TO GO, THIS IS CRAZY, SO I GUESS I'LL HAVE TO USE IT THE WAY IT IS, OR SPEND &75.00 OR SO FOR A VACUUM PUMP AND HOPE THE HELL IT WORKS, IT'S A V8 5 SPEED 302 CI
Hi - Thanks for watching! It could be. I recommend that you also check with Perfection Clutch because they have a large library of vehicle specific procedures. Their contact information is in this video's description.
Hi Lorn - Great question, but please contact the folks at Pression Clutch (their contact info is in the video description) because they have a guy who does these vehicles and produces a video on the procedure. Thanks for watching!
I used this technique and the master cylinder bled fine, but after installation i have no clutch pressure at all. tried gravity bleeding, but nothing came out of the SC bleeder. any tips?
Hi - Thanks for watching! When you wrote that nothing came out of the SC bleeder did you mean no fluid or no bubbles in the fluid? I would also like to recommend that you check out Precision Clutch’s website because they have videos on installing and bleeding clutches on vehicles by year/model and can probably be of more help. Their contact information is in the video description.
with the car off but when I turn it on it won't go into gear and if I turn the car off put it in gear and start it in gear I'm able to move but not come out of gear is that mean my clutch disc is backwards or do I just have air in line and I got not getting enough to disengage
Hi - Proper diagnosis of you issue is not possible without lot's more information. I suggest you check with a service or repair manual for your vehicle and go through the step-by-step diagnostic procedure. Checking the Perfection Clutch website for possible answers might help too.
Hi - That's a good question. I suggest you check with Perfection Clutch at their website (listed in the metadata below the video) as they usually have vehicle specific procedures there. Thanks for watching!
Nice, but how would I stop air from getting back into the system when installing? All my stuff has hard fixed lines, I can't remove it without removing the lines.
Hi Dennis - Thanks for watching! Great question - I suggest you ask the folks at Perfection Clutch because they have a library of vehicle specific videos and information that can help you with this. Their contact information is in the video description.
Hi - Thanks for watching! I'm not sure when I could get to that so I recommend that you check with Perfection Clutch because they have a vast library of vehicle specific videos and information. Their contact information is in the video description.
Jim, I have a 01 chevy 2500. Clutch, pressure plate, throw baden was change recently by previous owner. I changed the clutch master cylinder and bled it., but still doesn't wanna go in gear. Any suggestions?
Hi - Thanks for watching! Hard to say as I have not tried that on a vehicle like yours. I suggest you check out the Precession Clutch video library as they have a lot of vehicle specific videos on Clutch bleeding. Their contact information is in the video description.
Hi - Thanks for watching! Since that didn't come up in the interview, I suggest that you contact Perfection Clutch because they have a vast library of vehicle specific videos and information. Their contact information is in the video's description.
Sounds like a lot of work to me.....I just jack the front of the truck up and bleed normally. Sometimes you have to let the master cylinder "snap" back to get it to take in the new fluid but it's never been difficult if you ask me. I'm an aircraft mechanic and the older Cubs were tough to get all the air out....until you raise the back of the plane above the level line.....you can set the tail wheel on a chair and it bleeds out quickly and easily. Harley master cylinders can be tough too until you turn the handlebars to raise the end of the cylinder. My neighbor brought his jeep over because the clutch didn't work well....jacked the front end up and wala! bled right out and he's happy....now he won't leave me alone....hehe
Thanks for the comment back! The latest was a 92 jeep wrangler...it was the clutch slave but it will work on any hydraulic system. If you don't let the master "pop" back the slave cylinder will not "reset" and you'll be there all day trying to figure it out. The important part is to get the filling port in the master to be higher then the other end. That will let the cylinder fill and the air to escape out. Otherwise the bubble can remain trapped and it will never completely bleed out. Sometimes, especially with the tiny master piston in Harleys, you can tilt it one way and bleed it a bit and then raise the other end and it will make it bleed more quickly and completely. The Piper cub I mentioned stumped a lot of mechanics and the first time I put the tail wheel up on a chair it bled right out for me. I flew that stupid cub with limited brakes for 2 years before I figured it out. In aircraft we pressurize the BLEED valve (with a pump type oil can.....we use 5606 oil in most small airplanes) and let the master backfill.....still won't work if the master is too low on the wrong end. I hope you had a very Merry Christmas and a happy New Year!
Exactly.. Some cars can't be bled first due to the positioning of the pedal in order to connect the master cylinder arm to the pedal (Can't be done under pressure)
@@randylegall2162 I've found that if the slave cylinder moves too slowly it will take the air bubble with it. Let it up quickly and it will not try so hard to follow it. It works...trust me....same with Harley master/slave
Hi - Thanks for watching! Good question. We didn’t encounter that during the demonstration, so I recommend that you contact Precision Clutch because they have a vast library of vehicle specific video’s and instructional material available. Their contact information is in this video’s description.
Hey Jim I Have a 2000 GMC Sonoma 4.3l SL 2wd. I Am Having One Heck Of a Time Bleeding The Slave and Master Clutch Cylinder. If At All You Knew What I Kneed to Do. I'd Say Thank You.
Hi - I'd like to recommend that you check out Perfection Clutch's website as they have a lot of vehicle specific videos that should help. Their contact information is in the metadata below the video. Thanks for watching!
Hi - Thanks for watching! That type of system was not discussed during the filming so I would like to suggest that you check with Perfection Clutch. They have a vast library of vehicle specific videos and information. Their contact information is in the video description.
I've never felt so eager to want to comment on a video. This was probably the best how to video on cars I've seen as to a complete understanding of the what how and why. I've watched many of videos for wrenching advice and this one actually made me feel educated.
Hi- Thanks for watching and sharing your experience!
Absolute pleasure to learn something new by professionals for absolutely free! With clear and simple instructions
Thank you very much
You’re welcome and thanks for watching and sharing your opinion!
I’ve watched 20 videos on clutch systems, bleeding, fluid change, and yours by far is the most informative. Thanks for the video, makes everything so clear now.
Hi - Thanks for watching! I’m glad the video helped.
This is by far the best clutch bleed video I've ever seen
Hi - Thanks for watching! I'm glad you think so.
Problem solved! I spent a week on this problem, and this method fixed my issue immediately. Thank you!
It's been quite a long time since I've had the pleasure of being taught a new technique from the master! Thank you!
Hi Ian - You are most welcome and Thanks for watching!
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this is the best video I have seen on bleeding a hydraulic clutch thank you for putting on the internet
Hi - You're welcome and thanks for watching!
THANK YOU!! My Husband had done this 20 years ago when he worked at the dealership and just needed a refresher.. he read the car manuals, instructions from his off brand part, none mentioned this, but he was certain the bench bleed was needed prior to install to remove air bubbles. I said let's youtube it! So thankful you made this video. This was exactly what he needed to help him with his 1989 Ford XLT Ranger.
You are welcome!! I'm glad the video helped (that's why we do them). Thanks for watching!
I watched countless videos on bleeding the system. I was struggling till I saw your tip on tilting the master back. Air came out right away. Thank you!!!!!!!
Hi - You're welcome and thanks for watching! I'm glad the video helped.
Hi Jim, i have been trying to fix and bleed clutch on my 2006 isuzu dmax for two days untill i found this video and it really helped me to fix the problem. Now i have the vehicle running again. Great video thank you very much.
Thanks for your kind comment and Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the great video. I parked my truck on a really steep hill and pushed my pedal about 20 times . It fixed my spongy pedal. You guys are awesome.
Actually. you are awesome for watching! I'm glad we were able to help, which is why we make these videos in the first place.
Ok where I live we have plenty of steep mountains so I’m going to try it . You removed the cap on the master ? Do you have to press the clutch petal gently so you don’t lose a lot of fluid. I would hate to get air locked on the side of a mountain 😊 Thanks
Well thanks to your video I finally got my old 91 s10 clutch bled..I just had to take it out and bench bleed it at the angle you stated....This has been a struggle for me and have been putting it off for months, I spent my life working in garages and on junk and never had this much trouble....I had to come find your page so I could thank you...Thank you so much.......
Hi - Thanks for your great comments. I'm glad the video helped and your project went well. Thanks for watching!
Same here man! 92 f150 making me question everything I thought I knew about cars! I've changed clutches in semi trucks, rebuilt suspension, engines... You name it! But evidently I am a complete failure at the simple task of bleeding a clutch 😂🤣😂 I think trying this will solve it for me.
what do you have to hold at a angle? Have an 89 s10 nothing but problems. But new parts and they go bad way too soon. New fuel pump lasted less than a month! Replaced all components at engine mechanical then the hydrolic stuff goes bad!
Unbolting the master cylinder from the firewall, tipping it back, tapping it on the side and moving the piston in and out similar to the video worked for me. I did this without removing it from the truck.
Thanks for the tip. What vehicle were you working on?
@@WrenchinUpwithJimBates I fixed it on a1998 f 150 with allow to tip the master cylinder without disconnecting the fluid line. Easy!
Can u rebuild a slave cylinder for a 2007 sentra S.E.R spec v? And the box that the spring goes into wont hold the spring tight. How do I fix that problem?
Would jacking the front up of the vehicle quite high, while leaving the back of the ground do the same thing?
Sorry that should read, would jacking only the front of the vehicle up quite high leaving the back of the vehicle on the ground, do the same thing, tilt the master cylinder enough?
Great video and very professional. I love how you easily explained everything in basic simple English for non-technical folks like me. Thanks for the education!
Hi - You're welcome and thanks for watching! I'm glad you like the video.
Thanks for the instruction. You saved me from nearly scraping my vehicle. Lifesaver!
Hi - Thanks for watching and sharing your experience!
Awesome video the best l ever seen. You expanded everything where anybody can understand it, and you showed all the components that works properly with a properly bleed clutch. Even gear lever. Showed how to exactly do everything clearly. Yall were like professional teachers teaching a class to students . Super grateful it helped so many people that didn't know what to do after trying everything. Thank you, thank you.
Hi - Thanks for watching!
Excellent simple to understand and perfect description of how it works
Hi - Thanks for watching and sharing your opinion!
This is great but what if you have hard clutch hydraulic lines and you can't remove the entire system from the truck? Nissan xterras... long runs and it goes up and down between the slave and master ....
Hi - Thanks for watching! That didn't come up in the interview, so I recommend that you check with Precision Clutch about that because they have a vast library of vehicle specific videos and information that should help. Their contact information is in this video's description.
@@WrenchinUpwithJimBates NO worries man, if anyone is reading this it ended up being the slave cylinder was jank, and needed to be replaced, once that was done, two master cylinders worth fluid and pushing fluid up from the slave cylinder (reverse fluid injection), worked amazing. Clutch pedal never felt better NO bubbles in zero seconds
Hello, very interesting and informative video. Thank you for taking the time to upload and show various samples of what’s going on with the bubbles.
Hi - Thanks for watching! You might be interested in this one too on hydraulic cavitation. th-cam.com/video/jExcQjAjjv0/w-d-xo.html
I am surprised at how easy you both made it look and gave a great description of how it works! Thank you, I learned a lot in a short video.
Hi - Thanks for watching and for your very nice comment. I'm glad the video is helpful.
So if my slave cylinder is horizontal, can’t i just Jack the front up to move the bubble?
Hi - Thanks for watching! Some people have said in the comments that this works.
This video kinda reminds me of taking the "tests" while working at Advance Auto Parts, this has been a great help! Thanks!
Hi - Thanks for the nice comment and the memories (I think). Anyway, I'm glad the video helps. Thanks for watching!
Question. When you remove the clutch pressure line at the Slave Cylinder is the connection a quick sealed connection so air does not enter the line? My guess it is like an air hose coupler fitting. I also think you should use the Phoenix brake and clutch tool to remove any trapped air bubbles by inserting the tapered fitting into the bottom of the Master fluid Orifice to force new clean fluid down into the slave cylinder and open up the bleeder screw to allow any air to escape befor tightening it up again.
Hi - Thanks for watching! Great question - so great that I must recommend that you reach out to Precision Clutch, because they have a vast library of vehicle specific videos and information. Their contact information is in this videos description.
Thank you, very practical n useful tip, I've learnt from you both here in country of Papua New Guinea...🙏🙏👍👍
Hi - Thanks for watching and sharing your appreciation!
So that's why my slave cylinder didn't wanna bleed because the master cylinder always had that bubble trapped up there makes perfect sense great video and explanation on how the clutch hydrologic system works wth air bubble trapped in it and how to get them out
I'm glad it helped. Thanks for watching!
Fantastic, I just tipped my Nissan and it was fixed . Before that I bleed and bleed and still air in the fluid, thank you so much.
Hi Hans - Thanks for watching! I’m glad the video helped.
This video just saved the day for me. Thank you!
Hi - You’re welcome, and thanks for watching and sharing your experience!
Depending on the master cylinder orientation couldn't you just jack the front of the car up? Or park it facing up a hill?
Hi - Thanks for watching! Some folks posted that worked for them.
How to keep air from getting back in master and slave cylinder when pre-bleeding? Before installation of the master and slave cylinder.
Hi - Thanks for watching! Being retired I don’t have the latest information, so I recommend that you check with Precision Clutch about this as they have a vast library of vehicle specific videos and information that may be helpful. Their contact information is in the video’s description.
I’d like to see a video on how the typical line connectors work. Especially the big brass one which has no opening! Which was pictured briefly in this video. Thanks
Hi - Thanks for watching! Sorry for the delay in answering. I overlooked your post. The manufacturer has a vast library of videos that may be helpful. Their contact information is in this video’s description.
what did you use to stop the fluid from coming out of the bottom line where the connector that connects to the slave cylinder is. if you fill it up want fluid just run out the bottom if you don't have that connected to the slave cylinder.
Hi - Thanks for watching! The whole system remains connected. We're just trying to get the air bubbles to rise out of the system to the top.
Thank you for the tip, have been fighting this for hours!
Hi - You’re welcome and thanks for watching!
I’m driving a Ford kuga 2013 model ecoboost…I had clurch problem decided to buy a new clutch kit but after installing the new clutch kit the clutch pedal does not truck back properly what could be the problem?
Hi - Thanks for watching! Being retired for some time now, I seem to have developed a “rusty thumb”. So I really suggest that you contact Precision Clutch about your problem, because they have a vast library of vehicle specific videos and information that may help. Their contact information is in the video description.
I need help, do i need to do this if my clutch pedal is hard and stiff? Its so tiring driving it.
Hi - Thanks for watching! Being retired for a while, I seem to have developed a “rusty thumb” and find that long distance diagnostics is difficult if not impossible. Having said that, I would like to suggest that you contact Precision Clutch because they have an extensive library of vehicle specific video’s and information that you may find useful. Their contact information is in this video’s description.
I have used A vacuum pump and A cap that fits tight over the resivor with A brake bleeder bottle and held vacuum in the system for about 10min and wah-lah that works real good !!!
Hi - Thanks for watching and sharing your experience!
So how do you keep the fluid in the lines as you reinstall it?
Hi - Thanks for watching! We didn't have that issue in the demonstration, so I would like to recommend that you check with Perfection Clutch, because they have a vast library of vehicle specific videos and information that might help. Their contact information is in the video's description.
In the case of the horizontal master cylinder, could you not just park the car/truck facing uphill and get a similar effect?
Hi - Thanks for watching! According to some of the comments for this video, this has been done successfully for some vehicles.
On older model Volvo semi trucks they are bled from the slave cylinder back through to the master cylinder . Use a windshield washer pump , attach line onto bleed screw of slave cylinder . Pump fluid until it overflows from the uncapped master cylinder and tighten bleeder screw .Install cap and tighten . On Chevrolet pick-up trucks it is possible to cross calipers , make sure bleeders point upward .
Hi - Thanks for watching and sharing your experience!
Can I bleed it without the trans in the truck? Or does everything have to be bolted together? I'm replacing the clutch in my 95 and I dont thing the slave is bad, just has air in it. Basically wondering if I can bleed it while its hangin in place
Hi Thanks for watching! You should be able to if the Master Cylinder is at the highest point. But I recommend that you check with Precision Clutch to be sure because they have a vast library of vehicle specific videos and information on stuff like this. Their contact information is in the video description.
My Toyota Tacoma clutch pedal sticks to the floor when I pressed it after the clutch was replaced can you help me ?
Hi - Thanks for watching! Being retired and a bit behind on things, I would like to suggest that you check with Precision Clutch because they have a vast library of vehicle specific videos and information that you may find helpful. Their contact information is in this video’s description.
Works great if you can remove the entire thing from the car. Most cars I know of seem to have metal lines and are not removable as a sealed assembly or are capable to be installed as a complete sealed assembly.
Hi - Thanks for your comment. Vehicles that allow for the master cylinder to be "tipped up" can use this procedure. Others that cannot will have to use different methods. Check the website in the metadata to see what they recommend for different vehicle configurations. Thanks for watching!
This has answered a lot of questions. Thanks
Hi - Thanks for watching! I'm glad the video is helpful.
Well this explains why my clutch went limp a few weeks ago and I was only able to get it barely drivable in the parking lot. Guess the seals on the master went bad and let air in once the weather got cold.
Hi - Thanks for watching and sharing your experience!
If I install a new Master Cylinder Your not supposed to insert the clutch pedal push rod until the entire system has been reinstalled.
It is the last thing you reinstall and it locks into place in the master cylinder.If i were to use this method of bleeding the air from a new master then do i need a special tool to releae the push rod after bleeding process and reinsert again as the last item you connect?
Hi - Thanks for watching! Great question, but I must suggest that you reach out to Precision Clutch for the proper guidance, because they have a vast library of vehicle specific procedures that can help here. Their contact information is in this video’s description.
Trying to bleed the clutch on my truck - all hydraulic but the master and the slave are double the size of what’s in the car. I’ve just replaced both the master and the slave, trying to bleed it up but having no luck. The master is mounted vertically and bolted under the pedal assembly with a steel line going to the slave, there is a bleed screw on the side of the master and a nipple on the slave. Which end should I bleed it from, if I were to remove it from the truck it will empty of itself of fluid
Hi - Thanks for watching! Since that didn't come up in the interview, I would like to suggest that you check with Perfection Clutch for this because they have a vast library of specific videos and information. Their contact information is in the video's description.
Do you put the line in a bottle of break fluid so it don’t suck air back in
Hi - Thanks for watching! Some methods recommend that. I suggest that you check with Precision Clutch because they have a vast library of vehicle specific procedures. Their contact information is in the video description.
My frontier has a long, hard hydraulic line only. Seems it can only be bled on the vehicle thru the slave. Am having a hard time getting all the air out of the system. Tried the conventional way, reverse injection, and am still having problems. It's better, however the pedal returns only up until the last inch or so. Any suggestions?
Hi - Thanks for watching! I would like to suggest that you check with Precision Clutch on this because they have a vast library of vehicle specific procedures for things like this. Their contact information is in the video's description.
im working on a f350. how would i get the slave piston back in to reinstall? strap is broke
Hi - Thanks for watching! I don't have the resources to properly answer your question so I suggest you contact Precision Clutch as they have a vast library of repair videos and information that might be able to help you with this. Their contact information is in the video description.
Why would air in the line only affect 1st and 3rd? I am asking because in my subaru i have trouble going into first and 3rd from a stop. I have to press the clutch pedal all the way down to shift into thos gears. I am hoping bleeding the system will do the trick. My clutch was replaced 20k miles ago. A reply would be much appreciated. Thanks!
Hi - Thanks for watching! This could possibly be transmission related as well. I suggest that you contact Precision Clutch because they have a vast library of vehicle specific repair and replacement information. Their contact information is in the video description.
Hi guys great video, you have shown a step by step how the clutch fluid works and also the air that travel in the line it's too often the books and the manuel do not show this at all I have watching so many video's but not beat you guys of make this videos thank you London uk I have vauxhall corsa.
Thanks for the kind words and thanks for watching!
watched your video could you raise the front end of the pickup up high enough to make the slave cylinder angles the opposite direction so you dont have to remove it from the vehicle?
Good Question Vance. I suppose it depends on how high and what might spill or fall out of the vehicle. I think someone said they parked on a steep hill and got the procedure to work. Thanks for watching!
Vance - for the Ford Ranger, the master cylinder passes through the firewall at about a 45-degree angle. The truck would have to be tilted up more than 45 degrees just to make the air bubble flow to the fittings. Even if this could be done, there is a wicked U-bend in the steel pipe that continues to the slave cylinder that can also catch bubbles. I think you would have to put the truck on its roof in order to force the air past the bend to the master cylinder.
Got a gen 1 bronco 2 that doesn't disengage the friction plate I've tried pushing the pushrod but its rock hard.
Hi - Thanks for watching! Long distance diagnostics is difficult, if not impossible, so I suggest that you check a service/repair manual, make sure everything is mechanically assembled properly (clutch disc is not in backwards, etc.) and then check out the large Precision Clutch video library. They have vehicle and problem specific information there that could help.
I have a 1991 F150. For the past year or more l have considerable difficulty, especially when first started, getting it into 1st or any gear, with grinding, etc.. Also diminished clutch travel.
It sounds like an air problem????
What do you think?
Hi - Thanks for watching! I could be, but I suggest that you check with Precision Clutch to be sure as they have an extensive library of vehicle specific information. Their contact information is in the video description.
hi . my jeep Rubicon 2007 manual 6 gear 3.7 , has a problem if you press clutch it goes in gear but its not engaging or going in gear
Hi and thanks for watching! I appreciate your comment but there is not enough information there for me to understand the problem. When you press the clutch what goes in gear - the shifter or the transmission? What's not engaging - the clutch or the transmission gear selection?
Yea bro thats cuz of the pedal
Hello, thanks for the video. I have Fiat Bravo 2 1.6 multijet 105hp. From 1-2 weeks I have an issue with the clutch - when I am going on first and reverse gear the car is vibrating and annoying rasping sound is heard on the front of the car. Sometimes I am not even able to shift the gears and when I turn off the car and pump the clutch and then the car start shifting and driving off without vibrations. Could it be a problem with the clutch release bearing? Or because of old brake fluid and air in the system? Thanks in advance!
Hi - Thanks for watching! Since you mentioned that you have to pump up the clutch I recommend that you check for air in the system. Also check out Precision Clutch because they have an extensive library of vehicle specific videos and information that might help. Their contact information is in the video’s description.
does this work for all vehicles? would it work for a Honda element?
Hi - Thanks for watching! Since that didn’t come up in the interview, I suggest that you contact Precision Clutch for the answer because they have a vast library of vehicle specific video’s and information. Their contact information is in the video’s description.
I have a 1999 Saturn that is hard shifting into low and reverse. This has been going on for eight years(my sisters car). Mechanic told her several years ago it was the clutch. A clutch doesn't go "out" for eight years. I replaced the master and slave cylinder two years ago with a pre bled system. Same problem with shifting into low or reverse and the clutch pedal feels soft. Did I get a system that wasn't bled properly? Any input is appreciated. Thank you.
Hi - Good question. Since you did not mention that shifting into other gears was a problem too, I am leaning toward a linkage or possibly transmission issue. But since I'm not an expert in this area I suggest you ask the folks at Precision Clutch about this and I'm sure they will be able to steer you in the right direction. Their contact information is in the video description. Thanks for watching!
@@WrenchinUpwithJimBatesThank you.
Thank you sir. Your information is invaluable.
Hi - You're welcome and thanks for watching!
The clutch pedal in my 2001 Dodge Neon offers no resistance at all. It just goes to the floor like a limp washcloth. I replaces the master cylinder and the slave cylinder and bled them thoroughly. It still does not engage. What else can I do besides junk the car? I am lost.
Hi - Thanks for watching! If you have already checked for a proper mechanical connection between the clutch pedal and the clutch master cylinder, I suggest that you check with the folks at Perfection Clutch. They have an extensive vehicle specific library of information that may help. Their contact information is in the video description.
Thank you so much this helped a lot.
Hi - You're welcome and thanks for watching! I'm glad the video helped.
I have A 95 s10 been bleeding for a week my pedal feels OK but the clutch isn't disengaging properly when I press the clutch new master an slave do you think your method will help me?
Hi Logan - Thanks for watching! Many people have tried this with success. it is recommended by the clutch manufacturer so I suggest you give it a try. Let us know how it worked for you.
95 f150 same system except resevoir is on master. New master bled and still spngey. Pedal wont come back up and i think i got all the air out. I bled the old way before i found this video. The new master is on the truck. I tried a gravity bleed. Opened bleeder pressed petal got a solid squirt that was it. No more fluid came out and pedal is still down. Any ideas. ??? Im about to return the master as faulty.
Would a bleed gun work. Im stuck
Hi - Thanks for watching! I don't have the information here that's needed to help you with this. I recommend that you contact Perfection Clutch as they have an extensive library of vehicle specific video and trouble shooting stuff, as well as a customer service staff. Their contact information is in the video description.
How do you do that when you have nothing but hard hydraulic lines like in my Frontier??
Hi - Thanks for watching! Great question. I recommend that you check with the folks at Perfection Clutch because they are the experts and have a vast library if vehicle specific videos and information on this stuff. Their contact information is in the video description.
Sir i m facing a problem in my skoda fabia 2009 . When i m phushing my clutch to change gear then r.p.m goes high every time. Any suggestion from your side.😐😐😐😐
Hi - Thanks for watching! Long distance diagnostics are difficult, if not impossible, to get it right. But I do suggest checking for codes, IAC, TPS and intake manifold leaks for starters. Assuming your foot is not still on the accelerator pedal during the shift.
I have a 1995 Volkswagen Passat GLX VR6 5 speed, the reservoir that feeds the Clutch Master Cylinder also feeds the Brake Master Cylinder, what is your advice for bleeding the Clutch Master Cylinder without disconnecting the brakes?
Hi Nidia - Thanks for watching and for your question! To get the best and up to date answer I recommend that you ask the folks at Perfection Clutch because they are really the experts on this. Their contact information is in the video description.
out of all the cars/trucks i've had in the past years,none had a hydraulic clutch.my current truck is just an '86 chevy 1/2 ton short bed with a small block chevy engine in it.why did they do something like that at the factory.guess i'll need to do some google searches or check some information on here.
Hi - Thanks for watching and for your comment! Yes, hydraulic clutches have been around for quite a while and I'm sure you will find a lot of good (and bad) info out there in your search.
@@WrenchinUpwithJimBates thank you for replying to my comment,very much appreciated.after watching your video a second time,i just may stick with what's in my truck at present.it seems very easy to do and can't be any worse than having to bleed brakes.the information provided in the video is very helpful and i hope all who watch it,me included, will get something out of it.whether it be their first time or have done this before.once again thanks for posting your video.
Nice video! My client's own had a similar issue so I bleed the clutch and still to no avail. I've even replaced only the kit inside the upper clutch but the problem of a sponge clutch and no gear still persist.
I've checked scrutingly for signs of leakage carefully while someone else pressed the clutch pedal and found out that the down clutch nipple doesn't hold clutch hydraulic fluid! It goes out gently, and also the clutch fluid was replaced with a new one. Nevertheless, it's still very darkened in color. Please, how do I fix the issues?
Darkened fluid, soft clutch pedal, and a most especially the leak at the down clutch bleeder or nipple.
Hi - Thanks for watching! Being retired and a bit behind the “latest and greatest procedures”, I recommend that you check with Precision Clutch because they have an extensive library of vehicle specific videos and information that may be of assistance to you. Their contact information is in this video’s description.
@@WrenchinUpwithJimBates Thank you so much Dad.
Question, my friction plate wont disengage when pedal is fully depressed. Flywheel, friction plate, pressure plate and concentric slave + bearring are replaced 2 months ago and have done 2500miles with them without any problem. The problem started occuring when a friend of mine launched my car from a standstill and wanted to shift to 2nd. I've checked the shifting mechanism, bleeded but none worked. In first gear with clutch pedal depressed to the floor and accelerating the car creeps forward when close to redline. The slave cylinder moves out instantly when I'm depressing the clutch pedal, also it doesn't slip
What i did notice is the level in the clutch resevoir is decreasing when the pedal is depressed and raises again when releasing (no leaks under the car or at the pedal)
Hi - Thanks for watching! I suggest that you contact Precision Clutch with this because they have an extensive vehicle specific library that should help. Their contact information is in the video description.
GREAT VIDEO !!! I have a 94 ranger and 2 days ago my pedal started to get soft , Now my clutch isnt working at all ...the reservoir was dry ( forgive me, I'm learning as I go here ) do u guys think if I bleed the master ,the function will restore ??? Any help and insight would be appreciated..Just dont want to spend any unnecessary money ...ty in advance...And again , great video!!! I learned so much ty
Hi - Thanks for watching! Since long distance diagnostics can be difficult with a lot of typing back and forth, I suggest that you contact Precision Clutch because they have an large library of vehicle specific videos and information on this subject. Their contact information is in this video's description.
i have a 91 Toyota MR2, does this procedure apply to all hydraulic clutch systems? the pedal goes straight to the floor no pressure at all.
+CBear Gaming - The procedure does apply to all hydraulic clutch systems but because of differences in master cylinder orientation, etc. you may want to go to Perfection's website (their web address is listed below the video) as they have a lot of vehicle specific videos for this procedure and maybe there is one for your vehicle too.
Thank you very much for this very useful video..
Hi - Thanks for watching and sharing your thoughts!
I have a 2002 Corvette with this problem. Do I need to disconnect the master from the slave to remove the air in the master, or can I just remove the master and tilt it as you suggest. Once I have it tilted correctly, when I pump the master will it remove the air even though it is still connected to the slave.
Hi Howard - I would like to refer you to the experts at Precision Clutch for the answer to your question. They have the experience needed here. The contact information is in the metadata below the video. Thanks for watching!
Lovely video thanks for the support!
Hi - You're welcome and thanks for watching!
06 chevy colbalt starts but doesnt move. We bought a new clutch but haven't installed it yet. Was wondering if it could be anything else before we fix it?
First of all, thanks for watching! As far as your question though, I would need more information before I could offer any advice, such as when and how did it start doing this, what you have checked already, is the car in gear when it doesn't move, can you get it in gear. etc.
Thanks for keeping an eye on this Gary. Your input is very relevant and helpful!
If not bled right will always have a grind i cant really get into gear, but not really a sponge feel nor a grind just an inconsistent of getting it into gear smoothly
Hi - Thanks for watching! Being retired now, I no longer have access to up to date reliable information to help with long distance diagnostics. For that reason, I would like to suggest that you contact Precision Clutch, as they have a vast library of vehicle specific video’s and information can help you with your project. Their contact information is in this video’s description.
What about bleeding the vehicle at an extreme angle? I’ve got a 45* hill I could easily use to accomplish this.
Also, the bleed screw on my MR2 is about 6” lower than the slave cylinder itself. This can’t be good, can it?
I getting chatter in startup that goes away after a few minutes since I changed the master and slave out.
Hi - Thanks for watching! Check the comments for this video. Some viewers have tried this and reported success.
Wrenchin' Up with Jim Bates
I did, sir. Thank you.
Can you tell me, is chatter from the clutch on startup a symptom of air in an extremely long hydraulic clutch line? I drive an MR2 Turbo and, because it’s mid-engine, the line is very long. I’m experienced in bleeding techniques, but I suspect the bleeder being lowest in the system may lead to air in the (bleeder less) slave cylinder. Would that cause chatter on startup?
Edit: I should mention it shifts normally but this problem started the night I replaced the master and slave with new OEM/Aisen units.
Hi - Based on what I think I know about such things, I would think that the chatter would be there all the time, not just on startup if it caused by air trapped in the system. But again, I think the folks at Perfection Clutch would be the best resource here.
Wrenchin' Up with Jim Bates
Thank you, sir. I’ll call them
(gravity bleed you said) you left the bleeding screw open for how many hours? also doesn't opening the bleeder screw get air into the system if clutch pedal is not depressed? I'm so confused.
Hi - Based on my experience gravity bleed drains fluid from the system and does not let air in unless the system runs out of fluid.
@@WrenchinUpwithJimBates thankyou very much.
As I have to put in a new master cylinder I can apply this method when it's fitted. At least I can maybe drive the car to have a mechanic bleed the slave cylinder afterwards or do I need to?
Hi - If there were no leaking problems in the system, it should have fluid in the line from the master cylinder to the slave cylinder but I still recommend that you check the service or repair manual for your vehicle to bleed the system using the original equipment manufacturer's step by stem procedure. Thanks for watching!
Great video! The trouble I'm running into is that my brake reservoir and clutch reservoir are the same, so I can't remove the reservoir/ pressure line. That means I have to use a funnel + tubing instead of reservoir + pressure line. This is doable, but then the problem becomes: how do you disconnect the funnel + tubing and then install the cylinder (which is full of fluid) without spilling fluid out of both ports? ... quite the challenge indeed.
Hi - Thanks for watching! I suggest that you contact Precision Clutch because they have an extensive library of vehicle specific videos and information on this. Their contact information id in this video's description.
@@WrenchinUpwithJimBates They don't
I have a 2010 Mustang V6 4.0 5-speed I can't believe the system please tell me how! Oh yeah the reservoir is in the master cylinder.
Hi - Thanks for watching! I suggest that you contact Precision Clutch about this because they have a vast library of vehicle specific videos and information that will probably help you with this.
now what happens if your slave cylinder blew during bleeding the slave itself? is this a faulty cylinder, or did the mechanic working on it screw up?
Hi - Thanks for watching! I suppose it could be either but my guess (because you didn't mention the age of the vehicle or the slave cylinder) is that the slave cylinder was just worn out and needed replacing.
Get the same results putting the car up on ramps. For instance if you want the piston end facing down put the front of the car on ramps and leave the back on the ground with chocks. Can do it in the car without unbolting anything. Works good and its how I've done it in the past.
Thanks for watching and taking time to comment! You might be interested in the comment from "perfectionclutch" as well.
+Jim Bates Yep perfectionclutch has it spot on, different methods for different machines. By the way thank you for some really informative videos Jim :)
You are most welcome and thanks for watching!
i Have a 1989 Full Size Bronco V8 i am Having trouble Bleeding my New Cylinder & Line, My fluid cup & Master is ONE & the same, what is the best way to Bleed, you only show the cup a short line then the master, Mine is all in one, PLEASE HELP ?
Hi Gary, i have bleed this new clutch the best i can, i can drive it, but the clutch grabs at the very bottom, to get it in reverse or first gear, i must have the peddle pressed into the floor as hard as i can, it is a Bronco 1989 full size
5 speed, my master & cup is set up just like a brake master, but the line comes out of the front of it "master"and goes on a 180 degrees, then goes to the firewall & to the slave, i have done many 4X4 s but never had to replace the line or slave, the only way to get that air out is a vacuum ? and that might not work ? i had this truck since 91' and it always shift VERY WELL , Once i get into first gear & drive it shift into all the gear just like it use to, but getting into first or reverse i have to bury that clutch as far into the floor as possible ,,,
i TALKED TO TONY A WHILE BACK, I WAS TOLD TO NOT REMOVE THE MASTER BECAUSE I WOULD HAVE A HARD TIME GETTING IT BACK IN, I TOOK MY TRUCK TO BILL'S TRANSMISSION IN EASTPOINTE MICH, THEY HAVE A GREAT REP, AND BILL TOLD ME IF I WANTED TO DROP THE TRUCK OFF HE WOULD NEED IT FOR TWO DAYS, I ASKED HOW MUCH WOULD HE CHARGE ? HE CHARGE'S $90.00
BUT HE SAID IF I COULD BRING IT IN HE WOULD NOT CHARGE ME, " IF IT WAS JUST THE BLEEDING "
SO I DID HE HAD IT FOR TWO DAY'S, HE CALLED ME & SAID DAN , I THINK IT'S A LITTLE BETTER, MAN WAS I HAPPY, I WENT TO GET IT AND IT WAS THE SAME " HE SAID THAT THEY NEVER HAD MUCH LUCK WITH VACUUM BLEEDING, I GAVE HIM $20.00 BUT IT WAS THE SAME, HE SAID WHEN EVER HE DOES FORD TRUCKS AROUND THE YR OF MINE HE ALWAYS BLEEDS IT AND LETS IT SET OVER NITE & BLEEDS IT THE NEXT MORNING, AND THEY ARE GOOD TO GO, THIS IS CRAZY, SO I GUESS I'LL HAVE TO USE IT THE WAY IT IS, OR SPEND &75.00 OR SO FOR A VACUUM PUMP AND HOPE THE HELL IT WORKS, IT'S A V8 5 SPEED 302 CI
Is this why I can’t gravity bleed? Air in the line? Sometimes pedal feels firm other times it doesn’t
Hi - Thanks for watching! It could be. I recommend that you also check with Perfection Clutch because they have a large library of vehicle specific procedures. Their contact information is in this video's description.
Great presentation! I fixed my problem in my clutch. I am now confident about these clutches! Thanks
Hi - Thanks for watching! I'm glad the video helped.
What happens on a C6 corvette you cant get to the bleeder on the slave thanks ...
Hi Lorn - Great question, but please contact the folks at Pression Clutch (their contact info is in the video description) because they have a guy who does these vehicles and produces a video on the procedure. Thanks for watching!
@@WrenchinUpwithJimBates Thanks
I used this technique and the master cylinder bled fine, but after installation i have no clutch pressure at all. tried gravity bleeding, but nothing came out of the SC bleeder. any tips?
Hi - Thanks for watching! When you wrote that nothing came out of the SC bleeder did you mean no fluid or no bubbles in the fluid? I would also like to recommend that you check out Precision Clutch’s website because they have videos on installing and bleeding clutches on vehicles by year/model and can probably be of more help. Their contact information is in the video description.
@@WrenchinUpwithJimBates thanks for the response. no fluid came out. its a 90 f150 m5od. and i'll look at the website as well
Be sure to check to see if the master cylinder is bypassing internally if you haven’t already.
with the car off but when I turn it on it won't go into gear and if I turn the car off put it in gear and start it in gear I'm able to move but not come out of gear is that mean my clutch disc is backwards or do I just have air in line and I got not getting enough to disengage
Hi - Proper diagnosis of you issue is not possible without lot's more information. I suggest you check with a service or repair manual for your vehicle and go through the step-by-step diagnostic procedure. Checking the Perfection Clutch website for possible answers might help too.
I think it might be that air pocket you were talking about it your video I'm going to try jacking the front of the car up high enough then bleed it
Hi - Could be. Let me know how it works out.
what about if you are car shares the reservoir with the brakes how would you bench bleed that
Hi - That's a good question. I suggest you check with Perfection Clutch at their website (listed in the metadata below the video) as they usually have vehicle specific procedures there. Thanks for watching!
Nice, but how would I stop air from getting back into the system when installing? All my stuff has hard fixed lines, I can't remove it without removing the lines.
Hi Dennis - Thanks for watching! Great question - I suggest you ask the folks at Perfection Clutch because they have a library of vehicle specific videos and information that can help you with this. Their contact information is in the video description.
Thanks for the new thoughts. I'll try jack just the left rear tomorrow; and, hopefully I can get that last bit of air out.
Hi - You're welcome! I'll be interested to know how that works out.
With the rear axle on jackstands, the air in the throw-out bearing came immediately out.
Great - thanks for the update!
Could you do a Clutch bleed for a 98-2002 Pontiac Trans Am or a Camaro .
Hi - Thanks for watching! I'm not sure when I could get to that so I recommend that you check with Perfection Clutch because they have a vast library of vehicle specific videos and information. Their contact information is in the video description.
Jim, I have a 01 chevy 2500. Clutch, pressure plate, throw baden was change recently by previous owner. I changed the clutch master cylinder and bled it., but still doesn't wanna go in gear. Any suggestions?
Hi - Clutch disk in backwards?
Thx for the reply but come to find out. The clutch master cylinder wasn't bled enough. Now I have to change the clutch pedal out
If I place my f150 on ramps in a tilted driveway and press the cluch will that work?
Hi - Thanks for watching! Hard to say as I have not tried that on a vehicle like yours. I suggest you check out the Precession Clutch video library as they have a lot of vehicle specific videos on Clutch bleeding. Their contact information is in the video description.
What about slave cylinder reaction to brakee
Brakes
Hi - Thanks for watching! Since that didn't come up in the interview, I suggest that you contact Perfection Clutch because they have a vast library of vehicle specific videos and information. Their contact information is in the video's description.
Sounds like a lot of work to me.....I just jack the front of the truck up and bleed normally. Sometimes you have to let the master cylinder "snap" back to get it to take in the new fluid but it's never been difficult if you ask me. I'm an aircraft mechanic and the older Cubs were tough to get all the air out....until you raise the back of the plane above the level line.....you can set the tail wheel on a chair and it bleeds out quickly and easily. Harley master cylinders can be tough too until you turn the handlebars to raise the end of the cylinder. My neighbor brought his jeep over because the clutch didn't work well....jacked the front end up and wala! bled right out and he's happy....now he won't leave me alone....hehe
Hi - Thanks for watching and for your great comment! What is the year and model of your truck so other viewers can try your tip too?
Thanks for the comment back! The latest was a 92 jeep wrangler...it was the clutch slave but it will work on any hydraulic system. If you don't let the master "pop" back the slave cylinder will not "reset" and you'll be there all day trying to figure it out. The important part is to get the filling port in the master to be higher then the other end. That will let the cylinder fill and the air to escape out. Otherwise the bubble can remain trapped and it will never completely bleed out. Sometimes, especially with the tiny master piston in Harleys, you can tilt it one way and bleed it a bit and then raise the other end and it will make it bleed more quickly and completely. The Piper cub I mentioned stumped a lot of mechanics and the first time I put the tail wheel up on a chair it bled right out for me. I flew that stupid cub with limited brakes for 2 years before I figured it out. In aircraft we pressurize the BLEED valve (with a pump type oil can.....we use 5606 oil in most small airplanes) and let the master backfill.....still won't work if the master is too low on the wrong end. I hope you had a very Merry Christmas and a happy New Year!
Exactly.. Some cars can't be bled first due to the positioning of the pedal in order to connect the master cylinder arm to the pedal (Can't be done under pressure)
What do you mean when you say you have to let the master cylinder (pop) back, or the slave cylinder will not reset?
@@randylegall2162 I've found that if the slave cylinder moves too slowly it will take the air bubble with it. Let it up quickly and it will not try so hard to follow it. It works...trust me....same with Harley master/slave
What if you do all that and the slave cylinder don’t release fluid
Hi - Thanks for watching! Good question. We didn’t encounter that during the demonstration, so I recommend that you contact Precision Clutch because they have a vast library of vehicle specific video’s and instructional material available. Their contact information is in this video’s description.
Hey Jim I Have a 2000 GMC Sonoma 4.3l SL 2wd.
I Am Having One Heck Of a Time Bleeding The Slave and Master Clutch Cylinder.
If At All You Knew What I Kneed to Do.
I'd Say Thank You.
Hi - I'd like to recommend that you check out Perfection Clutch's website as they have a lot of vehicle specific videos that should help. Their contact information is in the metadata below the video. Thanks for watching!
3:49 How do you do this when the master cylinder is shared with the brakes and all your lines are solid lines (not rubber hoses)?
Hi - Thanks for watching! That type of system was not discussed during the filming so I would like to suggest that you check with Perfection Clutch. They have a vast library of vehicle specific videos and information. Their contact information is in the video description.
Anybody in shop in SoCal able to bleed a clutch on a 2020 civic si?