We at our shop can not thank you enough for posting this video. We had spent hours trying to bleed the clutch hydraulics on a 1996 Ford Ranger. This procedure worked right away. Thanks again... You're the BEST...
Takea peek t this method I dd for my Ford. People were doing all kinds of cray things to get the air out like parking their cars on slanted areas, using vacuum things, going through quart after quart of fluid and still having a limp pedal. This does not require ANY TYPE OF EXPENSIVE tool, just a 2.00 syringe from the drug store and you will have a pedal the first time in like 5 minutes. th-cam.com/video/pwpkSlrILmY/w-d-xo.html
Scrolling through the comments helped. Pumping it with the pedal down was a game changer. I did that once, then with it up and it worked. I did it with the pedal up countless times and it didn't work. 1995 F-150. Thanks!
after doing the old way for an hour or so, i saw this on google. my vac gauge was busting so amazon brought me one out, around $20 i think, probably one use thing, but i was amazed at the air bubbles coming out ot the master. easy to do. full pedal on first try. may me the best its ever been. you have another fan. no nonsense video. thanks so much
Thank you, brother! I went through about half a gallon of brake fluid trying to get the air out of the system on my 2006 Ranger. Four times with the mini-vac and I'm back in business with the truck shifting better than it has since I've owned it (less than a year.) Since it's so easy to do, I'll probably vac it once or twice again in a week or two in case more bubbles get dislodged.
It definitely works. It’s a lot easier than pulling the system out and tapping it upside down to get air out. Took me 4 times, like he says be patient.
Holy cow I just spent an entire day trying to get the clutch working on a brand new transmission swap. This was the final step after a looong process and absolutely could not get the air out. Infuriating.. Modern driveline needs to take a page from your book on how to bleed a hydraulic clutch. This video saved the day and got the car on the road. Not only that, it identified I had a had a loose connection in the system that I otherwise would not have realized. Brilliant. Not to mention it’s so much better than crawling underneath the car over and over again. Amazing tip! Thank you!
Not normally one to add comments but this video saved me. 1993 FORD F350 (7.5L/ 5 speed trans) Master cylinder line that runs from master to slave had split, leaked all my fluid, and ended up seizing the master and snapped my connecting rod when i was driving. Changed master and line and battled and battled having no pedal still. Would go to the floor and never come back up. Tried everything until we found this video. Great tip and works awesome. MUST TRY. Thanks, Seth
What a great way to do it. Replaced slave cylinder and master cylinder in a 1984 K10 and couldn’t get it to bleed, did this and in less than 10 minutes I had a working clutch again. Thank you so much
This is the best automotive repair truck I've seen on TH-cam! Thank you sir, you saved the day. My case : 1992 Ford ranger 2.3 engine, 5 speed manual. I dropped the transmission and put in new flywheel and clutch. Somehow got air in my lines, because the pedal was on the floor when I got done, despite it being a quick release fitting. Tried this trick, started getting air bubbles. The pedal was still soft. I had to open the bleeder on the slave cylinder and pump the pedal a few times, left the pedal pressed, then closed the bleeder. Then I did this trick again and started getting some response in the pedal. All in all, about an hour of sucking air out using this trick, it worked. I'm driving.
I did a video on the same thing a while back, just slightly different. This is a really cool idea but if you have a combined system, your kinda out of luck. The combined system like I have on my Mustang has one resovoir for both the brakes and slave cylinder, this idea, while really cool will not work on it. Take a look at my idea, again, not knocking this dude at all, it works and thats what is most important, but it has its limits to just the non-combined system. Take a look t this and let me know what you thinks th-cam.com/video/pwpkSlrILmY/w-d-xo.html
Ive been having an absolutely bear of a time getting the clutch system bled on my 91 f150. This is by far the best tip I've gotten all week. It's even better than the factory bleed procedure
My 1988 f250 has a rectangular orifice at the bottom of the master cyl. Res. So fancy pump I bought does not work Also the slave cyl. Does not have a bleeder nipple on the fluid drain port. I.ve tried and tried to no avail.
Brother thank you had a problem with my 94 ranger came across your video.i did it a little different but it worked keep up the good work and God bless you 🎉
I went out and bought one at Harbor Fraight today. Did my little ranger oh my god it was so much easier. Thank you for this video. I don’t have to struggle bleeding a clutch out on a Ford again.
Good video thank you. My son and I have dropped the tranny on his 1995 Ford F150 . We replaced the clutch, slave cylinder, pressure plate and guide bearing' rear main and oil pan . After the assembly we had to bleed the slave cylinder and we had no luck. I found your video and went to purchase a vacuum had pump. I tired your method for a good couple hours without any success., Pedal up oedal down etc. Kept getting bubbles. Finally i took out the clutch master cylinder and line leading to the slave cylinder. After careful inspection, it was determined that the master cylinder was bad. Got a new master cylinder from Napa for 50$ . Then i bench bled the master cylinder and line ( hooked up together) by keeping the master cylinder tilted up and by exercising the master cylinder piston to get rid of the bubles trapped in the cylinder body. I made sure it was completely filled up with brake fluid. I reattached themaster cylinder back to the pedal and line quick connect back to the slave cylinder. Then I gravity bled the slave through the bleed screw on the bell housing until a few bubbles cam out. ( Roughly about 3 mater cylinder reservoirs worth of fluid) then i closed the bleed screw. Pedal was perfect .
I own a 1981 f250 witha 1994 clutch and trans. I tried to bleed the clutch all day. I even removed the slave cylinder and bench bled it. When I put it back in, I tried some more to get the very last bit of air out. I only got more air back in. Then I saw this vid. I tried it. It works like a charm. Thanks for making this vid. It saved my week.
I can’t believe this is the first time I’m seeing this! Absolute genius! I would avoid doing them, even though you could make great money on them, because they would NEVER BLEED! Thanks for sharing Shaun!
Are you friggin kidding me. This absolutely works. I just wish i seen it before spending 20 hours doing it the way ive done everything else. Pulled the slave out twice. Great video
I’m so glad I found your video! I had pumped and pumped with nothing improving! Grabbed my vacuum pump and did this procedure twice and done!!! Thank you so much!!!
This method helped me discover a leak in my master cylinder. No matter how much a tried, I could not get it to hold vacuum unless the clutch was pressed in. While trying to bleed I checked my floor mat and sure enough there was fluid coming from behind the clutch pedal. Thank you!
You’re welcome, this method has never failed me, let me know. I know they’re tough, my grandpa and then dad owned a Ford store. I sold them for 20 years. I’ve been fixing them for 15, fixing all brands actually.
Great bit of information mechanic!! I was a wee bit confused NOT seeing the clear bottle with enough dot 3 . I purchased this tool as you suggested today I am looking forward to a success. Thank you.
I had a long time partner of mine.knowledgable for the most,but told me his clutch was going out,and he was grinding away at the gears big time.......I asked him a few times if he had checked the fluid level.he told me yes and ever since.he had to put alot in to refill it all way,since then hasn't used any,,😁so he popped hood and looked at the level,said see it's still all way full😫don't know what to do !!!!! So I just let him know about rubber boot you remove before filling.....pulled rubber (full)boot out and dry as a bone underneath.....cheap on fluids ????????
This worked great for me. for background info: I have a 1997 F-150, 4.2L 4WD 5speed. Poor clutch response, and would not go into gear with engine running. It would when engine was off. Pumping the clutch would help it get into gear. Hit or miss with pumping. I found the reservoir in the engine bay empty, but didn't see any leaks around the truck. Thought my slave was bad, but my symptoms didn't add up to that. So, I grabbed one of these pumps and lots of new DOT3 fluid and began bleeding. I first gravity bled the slave for a bit to get flow out of the entire system, then started pumping the clutch and bleeding it this way. There were many, many large 'eruptions' of air into the pump, bringing pressure down to 0. This brought no resistance to the clutch pedal, making me feel like I was doing more damage, but I persisted and I repeated this probably 30 times until the pump gauge read and held at a steady ~24PSI, and no more air or crud came out of the lines. Clutch works well now. Thanks!
I thought that I would try this on my Mustang but then I realized I have an automatic transmission. Oh well. Nice video though and good to see you back Shaun.
I'm doing this at lunch. I got the HF tool. 1999 Ranger got air in clutch petal piston again. I pulled it through into wheelwell 1 yr ago and was able to pull the snap ring and bleed the piston from there. Very tough job though. I bought a new MC but can't get trans line disconnected. Push in disconnect wore out. So I'll try this method, then another method puts a visegrip on the line to the trans and then you force petal to floor and air goes out through resevoir. First put front up higher on ramps to help. I got a lot of air in there. So I got a Ford I'll try your way today. Thanks good video, do more.
After talking of this method with a friend who is a bit smarter than I am, he compared this method to degassing of epoxy or silicone. You're removing ambient pressure from the system and therefore allowing the bubbles to expand to as large as they desire, making them much easier to capture and move around. I took off my reservoir as I couldn't get a good seal to the bottom hole, and you NEED a good seal to make this method work. Directly to the line, I stuck a hose barb and synched it down tight with a hose clamp. I then pumped my hand pump down to around 28in/Hg. At this point I started noticing bubbles coming up from my system. While this vacuum was holding, I went inside and threw the clutch pedal around for a bit to break the bubbles loose. Steady amounts of bubbles continued to come out until they finally stopped. Reconnected my hose back to the reservoir, filled it up, and then felt the pedal. Good and stiff! Thank you for the video again, and your replies to my questions. I wrote this as an individual comment so it may be found more easily by people experiencing problems like I did.
I decided to bleed my 04 Ranger clutch. Was engaging high. No clutch after I tried to bleed it from underneath traditional way.😩 actually tried a Turkey blaster to force fluid thru(another video) didn’t work was looking at taking reservoir and line out to bleed, thank God I saw this video, went out bought mityvac, got my clutch back and it grabs about the middle now. Thanks so much!!
Go watch the dodge and Chevy how to’s for this. I just seen one and they had to pull slave off and use a steering puller to compress it. Looks way worse to me.
Hopefully this can help anyone that I had this issue with: my master had two small holes. With the clutch pressed in (disengaged) I was able to successfully bleed and hold pressure on the forward hole, closest to the headlights. I had to keep the clutch pedal pressed in with a stick against the seat and pedal. Once that was successfully bled, remove the stick and bleed the rearmost hole, closest to the tail lights. If I tried either hole in the reverse order I was just constantly suck fluid through the system, faster than the air was able to come out. It took me quite a few hours to figure out this order so hopefully I can save someone some time and a headache. Once I figured it out, it was very successful. Good luck
If I could, I would kiss you for making this video - You don't know how much trouble and frustration I have been through trying to bleed my hydraulic for clutch cylinders. I almost sold a truck good that just needed a clutch because I didn't want to deal with bleeding the master and slave cylinders. I tried this on my truck that still had a little bit of sponge on the petal and the air came right out - Thank you, Thank you, Thank you!!
Thanks, man, I'm old and I can't tear all that stuff apart again. So I'm gonna try that. Hopefully that fixes my problem. And I don't have to deal with it for a long long time. Next project shims M y g m c rear end
I’m really looking forward to giving this a try in my 89 Ford F150 that ironically the same color as the one you’re working on in this video! LOL Now I originally thought the clutch also got it’s fluid from the master brake cylinder and I never seen that tiny clutch cylinder hiding back behind the master brake cylinder where it’s at. Unless you know it’s there it’s easy to miss! It wasn’t till my clutch lost pressure that I came in and got on TH-cam and seen a video showing where that clutch cylinder is. Unfortunately by that time my system was too low and it’s obviously got air in the system now. Filling the cylinder up certainly helped but not enough to work as it should. I figured I have to climb underneath the truck somewhere to bleed it, also have another person to push the clutch down and hold it at the right times. Now I’m excited to try your method and hope I can accomplish getting the air out your way? Certainly would make life a little simpler! Thanks for sharing this! Only thing I may need is a new bleeder. Last one I got at HF didn’t really work right. It had leaks everywhere first time I used it. Tried putting small hose clamps on all the connections. But not sure if that’s solved the problem or not yet? Hope it did, will find out soon! If not I’ll buy a new one from another place other then HF. HF ok for some things and not so much for others!
Good tip! I wish I'd known this when I put a new clutch assembly in my '96 F-150 last year. No matter what I did, the pedal was a bit mushy. I just insured the truck and started driving it again and the pedal is firm and like new again. The system self bled while sitting for a year!
Thanks Shaun! Mech all my life never had to do one of these on a ford even though we've owned about 4 different stick ranger's over the years. Doing one now on an old 95 with 3.0. Just hope this fixes the problem and we don't have slave cylinder problems!
Thank you Shaun! I'm going to get the bleeder immediately as I have a 2007 ford ranger and it won't go in any gear and have no pedal to speak of..I'm definitely not the damn truck whisperer(and female) so my dad is coaching me over the phone lol I was about to try opening the bleed valve under truck etc. but this seems like alot easier way and can be done by yourself as I don't have a mechanic fairy either lol thank you for this video I will def be watching more!
good stuff. On a different task, we changed the brake master cylinder on my Mazda and bled it 32 times but it was perfect after all that work :) Got a Ranger i'll try this on
Good stuff. I actually have one of those mighty vacs but never had to use it for that purpose. Probably because I never ran into a problem child during my 25 year career. Lucky me
I like your video and it worked after a long time trying it unsuccessfully. I tried this multiple times and only got a few very small bubbles over the course of 3 days a few hours each. I was getting very frustrated. I have an TKO 500 transmission in my 96 F-150 with a straight 6. I had an aftermarket hydraulic clutch system in it before that mounted on the outside of the transmission and it gave me issues for years. I eventually went with an American Powertrain hydraulic throwout bearing and a stock (not OEM) replacement Ford master cylinder but I got the aluminum one. Much better setup than that other one I had. I've had it installed for a couple years and it would jerk all over the place quite often when driving down the road and slip when I'd pull any kind of weight. I measured but something must not have been right. Took it apart to take some shims out and the bearing came apart and let the fluid out, which made the system full of air. Tried this method and it wasn't working. I took the hose off the master cylinder and it wasn't losing any fluid, just sat there. I figured it had some debris plugging the hole. Decided to take the master cylinder off. Disconnected the shaft from the pedal and fluid immediately started pouring out of the master cylinder. It couldn't have even been a 16th of an inch that it was pushed in to go over the nipple on the clutch pedal mechanicals. Moral of the story, if you're having issues bleeding the clutch, try taking the shaft off the pedal from the master cylinder and see if the fluid flows. After I found this, I immediately started getting a firm pedal with this procedure. It's perfect now. After I figured that out, I had the clutch bled, the transmission bolted in, the starter and driveshaft mounted back on within an hour and a half. Great video.
I did one of these a few years ago, and I was pulling my hair out trying to get the air out. I finally took the whole thing back apart, which meant pulling the tranny back out to get the slave cylinder out, and bench bled it. I sure wish I knew about this trick then!
Yall can save that 40 bucks by just using the hose and the sprayer off the gallon jug of weed killer, works just well, just run that hose down to the master cylinder, I usually push the clutch paddle all the way to the floor and use a 2×4 to hold it down while I'm bleeding the air out of it.
Works pretty good. I had to do mine like 20 times after removing and reassembling transmission. Pump held consistent so no leaks just had alot of air. Reached a point where pedal was only 1/2-3/4 before I wasn't seeing any improvement. Had someone hold the pedal down and was able to progress but still had some air. Drove it around, then parked on incline and started vacuuming again and got about 85-90% pedal. Repeated a few more times and finally got it all. Tool is about $51 including tax from harbor freight. Thanks for the video
I have a Jeep JK, which shares the same reservoir as the brake, unfortunately impossible to get to the hole in the bottom like you show. I also have a Centerforce concentric slave. Having trouble with shifting into 1st or Reverse when stopped sometimes. All research leans toward there is some air in the system. Tried vacuum off the reservoir cap multiple times, but it isn't getting the air out. Going to try an aftermarket reservoir dedicated for the clutch and your method. Hope it works out.
If you fill the slave with fluid before you install it and let the gravity fill the line before you install it then you can eliminate some this extra effort. These can be a real hair puller.
Okay I just watched a video on bleeding the slave valve on a clutch so there's a nut with that rubber boot is so it would be a two-person operation pump the brakes and then open that and get the air out of that right that's how I would get the air out of the system and get my pedal back if so thank you so much for giving me that information
Having been there (2003 Ranger) and just gotten back, let me say: 1.) Pre-bleed, while you have the virgin part resting in your leathery hands; 2.) The cap with the two ports actually has three -- one on the bottom which takes the four-inch section provided (I bled mine without this in place -- it's spongey); 3.) Engagement with the former master was near the top of my boot, now it is just off the floor -- this what it means, "self-adjusting"? 4.) The Mityvac kit is well worth the money -- DIY, I saved myself four hundred bucks at _least;_ 5.) I didn't need the 32oz jug of DOT3 -- but you might; 6.) Two years and over 150,000 views later, this is still salvation-at-a-click. Without your help, Shaun, I would still be standing in my carport and wondering "What the !*&# now?"
Nice I'm totally going this route. I will be doing it next week on my 84 bronco ii. I don't remember seeing the canister I'll have to search lol. My peddle feels dead, however it does come back up after I step on it, might I need something further than bleeding it?
Got the same vacuum pump from harbour freight today an pumped the air drove it around an did it again more bubbles came out did it three times an damn it worked great before I could not shift everybody telling me the clutch was,bad nope 30 minutes an it's great
We successfully did this today. However, our mistake was not removing everything and attempting to get the most air out of the assembly before attempting the vacuum procedure. 1. We installed the new master cylinder straight away with no prep. 2. Initially, could only pull 15" of vacuum. Kept trying over and over again. 3. Decided to do a gravity flush of the system from the bleed valve on the transmission. Let approx 3 reservoir's worth of fluid go thru. 4. Next pull was able to get 26" of vacuum. After 3 hours, still pulling small amounts of air, no pedal. Sometimes with the clutch in, sometimes out. 5. Decided to start pumping the clutch while vacuuming. Eventually the clutch pressure started to build up. Yea! After about 45 minutes we finally had a usable clutch. Overall about 4 hours starting with a totally dry reservoir and dry master cylinder. Hmmm. Next time I'm gonna do what I can to get the most air out of it before installing. Would've cut down on bleeding time for sure. Also, fwiw, we used the cheaper $25 harbor freight vacuum pump. Worked like a champ and was perfect for the job. Thanks again for your excellent work and knowledge Shaun. It certainly helped me get my son's butt back on the road and back to work!
Hey there Holmes!!! Man am I glad I came across your video brother??? This is fantastic because I’ve got my MityVac…. I actually also felt a little change a month ago and because doing the vacuum on what I’m now thinking is just a single tube or single line…nothing special… I can test for a little leak down in my slave cylinder with the MityVac… if it’s not holding some suction then I’m in trouble!!! I’m going to bleed mine like you do and top off the fluid… is that break or power steering??? Or blinker fluid, Sir??? Really appreciate your information! I’m praying that it’s not leaking somewhere… I’m an army and a Air Force ROTC cadet who didn’t have the knees after college football to join my beloved Army Rangers Training … Did absolutely fantastic in my Basic Training then after several bumpy parachute landing’s in my jump training found out that my knees just didn’t have what it takes to be able to handle the landing’s!!! Really horrible news for me as I was planning on joining the Special Jump team and work on all those special occasions and events where the Army sends in their A-Team to do the stunts and exhibition skydiving events. Unfortunately you can’t ware a couple custom knee braces when you are a regular shlepper in the Army… but you can as a regular joe or a Civilian… so I’ve been able to complete my 1000 successful jumps certification and I’ll continue to try for 2000 and I’m still actively training with divers and getting the new jumper’s training help! When I felt that little pressure change mid stroke that morning I was totally freaking out because the not knowing if my hydraulic clutch was just getting ready to fail!!! I’m under the impression that you get no warning… they just stop working!!! I’m adding fresh fluid and bleeding it and Thank Goodness for you!!! You Wonderfull Wonderful Man!!!! If it will hold a little vacuum then your slave cylinder down there isn’t leaking any fluid!!! Hallelujah Hallelujah if that’s the case because I felt a little pressure change when holding the clutch pedal off the floor a little and getting ready to engage first gear and take off!!! so I’m praying now that it was a little air bubble that had been sitting in there for 6 years and that it’s nothing!!! That tip to grab a point and pull vacuum on the line was just so huge… I really haven’t been able to slept more than a couple hours without a nightmare or dream about my truck breaking down !!! waking me up… I just gotta pull a vacuum and see if it holds for a couple minutes and at least then I’ll know if I need to replace the slave cylinder!!! And it’s way better to need to replace a slave cylinder for a hundred bucks or whatever then to need a new clutch!!! 😂👍😁😁😁😁😁😜😜😜😜😮😮😮😉😉✊😁😁😁😁. So a huge amount of tension and stress was removed from me by your video! It gave me hope in a very poor and low time in my life!!! Just knowing that I can test it and know if I have a leaking or a solid system is huge!!! Absolutely huge when you are a bipolar nut case with some other stuff and you are in an extremely tight position… that compounds that stress and it’s like a 1” drill bit in my skull drilling my brain!!! Thanks again for the video!!!
Great Video ! I'm trying to figure out how to get the adapter cone down in where it needs to be on a 1985 F250. The line to the slave comes out of the front of my master cylinder instead of the bottom like the one in the video. Looking straight down into the master cylinder there is a hole for the fluid to go through. The hole is not round, possibly more oval shaped. Does the cone with attached line need to be fed through the hole and then toward the front of the master cylinder ?
What exactly is it that I need to put the hose tip into, so the fluid that comes out with the bubbles doesn't need to be replaced? Thanks for this great video
Had a bronco one time that the guy said the clutch needed blead and at that time I had no clue what to do. I’ll keep this method in mind. I have one of the vacuum pumps that I bleed my brakes with. By my self.
Thank you very much!!!!!!!! I just put hole new master and slave cylinder setup on my jeep yj . Could not get it to bleed out fully. I have the vacuum setup you have . Thanks 👍🇺🇲🇺🇲🇺🇲👍👍🙏
My ranger clutch dang near stopped engaging when it got hot after hilly traffic today so i think ive got some air in there, gonna try this tomorrow and see if I can save my baby. After two slaves and a pressure plate our relationship has been strenuous to say the least.
Hi there thanks for the video have a question for you I have a 99 Ford F-150 with a 4.2 L in it with this work on there? I'm having a hard time putting it into gear so I'm just wondering if this would be my problem.
IF THIS METHOD DOES NOT WORK…meaning your pedal still springs to the floor, crawl under the vehicle while your reservoir is open and push the cylinder bracket that goes into your trans forward with your foot, make sure pedal is pushed in when you do this. you will see fluid shoot out everywhere but if you try it after doing that, it will now work
Hey quick question! I’m doing the same procedure but bubbles keep coming out, the clutch feels ok but there’s a very stiff spot at the end of the travel. Should I take apart the system?
I’m having clutch problems when my 96 ranger runs for a little long but once I turn it off and let it sit for a few hours it starts to work again as it nothing was wrong. Hoping this fixes my problem
trying to understand what im doing wrong but i lose clutch pressure each time i try your method. its actually very easy to bleed from underneath but my issue seemed to be just a tiny amount of air until i tried this method n now im starting over from scratch. thanks
@@greasyhandsauto-shaunbutte9726 yep new clutch new clutch pressure line new slave new master new resevoir clean new dot 3 brake fluid for resevoir. i got plenty of air out but no clutch pressure from the pedal. i refilled the resevoir probably 10 times
@@MJsLandscaping-i9e check the access, on the bell housing and the master, under the dash. If they’re dry, try it with the pedal down and then pull it up. It’s my experience when, what you describe, happens that there’s a leak somewhere.
@@greasyhandsauto-shaunbutte9726 i dont see any leaks. if i pump the clutch up 5 or 6 times then crack the bleeder at the trans till solid fluid then close it before flow stops i can get clutch pressure but not enough. this is a 93 ranger 3.0 5spd. not sure if maybe ur method just isnt compatible with my truck. i bought a $20 hand vac pump thing like u got.
91 s10 2 bottles of dot4 and a week of being down out of a work truck and I found this. Thank you so much you saved my business!
Excellent!
Damn dude. You're a real american hero for putting this out in space for the rest of us.
Thanks but, I’m just a regular dude.
@@greasyhandsauto-shaunbutte9726doesn't take super powers to be a hero!
I like this guy
We at our shop can not thank you enough for posting this video. We had spent hours trying to bleed the clutch hydraulics on a 1996 Ford Ranger. This procedure worked right away. Thanks again... You're the BEST...
Right on!
I'm having the same issue I'ma go buy that vacuum pump bleeder and give it a try... Thank you for posting this...
@@boostedeghatch396 you’re welcome.
@@boostedeghatch396 how’d it work
Takea peek t this method I dd for my Ford. People were doing all kinds of cray things to get the air out like parking their cars on slanted areas, using vacuum things, going through quart after quart of fluid and still having a limp pedal. This does not require ANY TYPE OF EXPENSIVE tool, just a 2.00 syringe from the drug store and you will have a pedal the first time in like 5 minutes. th-cam.com/video/pwpkSlrILmY/w-d-xo.html
Worked like a champ. I’ve been fighting this for a month. After I went for a drive and it was like butter. Thank you
Glad to hear it.
Scrolling through the comments helped. Pumping it with the pedal down was a game changer. I did that once, then with it up and it worked. I did it with the pedal up countless times and it didn't work. 1995 F-150. Thanks!
Thanks for the feedback
I used the same technique but with an air compressor brake bleed vacuum pump, which worked like magic!! Thank you, Sir!
watched a bunch of vids on YT about this problem, hands down this is the best one, right to the point and no extra bs. clear perfect instruction
Thanks!
after doing the old way for an hour or so, i saw this on google. my vac gauge was busting so amazon brought me one out, around $20 i think, probably one use thing, but i was amazed at the air bubbles coming out ot the master. easy to do. full pedal on first try. may me the best its ever been. you have another fan. no nonsense video. thanks so much
You’re welcome, glad it worked.
Thank you, brother! I went through about half a gallon of brake fluid trying to get the air out of the system on my 2006 Ranger. Four times with the mini-vac and I'm back in business with the truck shifting better than it has since I've owned it (less than a year.) Since it's so easy to do, I'll probably vac it once or twice again in a week or two in case more bubbles get dislodged.
Right on!
It definitely works. It’s a lot easier than pulling the system out and tapping it upside down to get air out. Took me 4 times, like he says be patient.
2000 ford ranger xlt 4x4
Hey brother,,I appreciate the advice,,,thank you..am about to go to it..drop you a line with the outcome...
And thanks again
Holy cow I just spent an entire day trying to get the clutch working on a brand new transmission swap. This was the final step after a looong process and absolutely could not get the air out. Infuriating.. Modern driveline needs to take a page from your book on how to bleed a hydraulic clutch. This video saved the day and got the car on the road. Not only that, it identified I had a had a loose connection in the system that I otherwise would not have realized. Brilliant. Not to mention it’s so much better than crawling underneath the car over and over again. Amazing tip! Thank you!
That’s great it helped. I’ve been where you were, I’m so glad it helped. Cheers.
Holy moly you are the only guy to show this step by step and how it works thank you , you are a life saver
@@slkroad690 you’re welcome
THANK YOU!!!! I pulled 22 inches of vacuum on resevoir for about 15 minutes.Clutch pedal high and hard.Goes into gear like butter!!!
Nice
Not normally one to add comments but this video saved me. 1993 FORD F350 (7.5L/ 5 speed trans)
Master cylinder line that runs from master to slave had split, leaked all my fluid, and ended up seizing the master and snapped my connecting rod when i was driving.
Changed master and line and battled and battled having no pedal still. Would go to the floor and never come back up. Tried everything until we found this video. Great tip and works awesome. MUST TRY.
Thanks, Seth
@@sethbergeron121 Sweet!
What a great way to do it. Replaced slave cylinder and master cylinder in a 1984 K10 and couldn’t get it to bleed, did this and in less than 10 minutes I had a working clutch again. Thank you so much
That’s great, glad it helped
This is the best automotive repair truck I've seen on TH-cam! Thank you sir, you saved the day. My case : 1992 Ford ranger 2.3 engine, 5 speed manual. I dropped the transmission and put in new flywheel and clutch. Somehow got air in my lines, because the pedal was on the floor when I got done, despite it being a quick release fitting. Tried this trick, started getting air bubbles. The pedal was still soft. I had to open the bleeder on the slave cylinder and pump the pedal a few times, left the pedal pressed, then closed the bleeder. Then I did this trick again and started getting some response in the pedal. All in all, about an hour of sucking air out using this trick, it worked. I'm driving.
Thank you for the feedback!
I did a video on the same thing a while back, just slightly different. This is a really cool idea but if you have a combined system, your kinda out of luck. The combined system like I have on my Mustang has one resovoir for both the brakes and slave cylinder, this idea, while really cool will not work on it. Take a look at my idea, again, not knocking this dude at all, it works and thats what is most important, but it has its limits to just the non-combined system. Take a look t this and let me know what you thinks th-cam.com/video/pwpkSlrILmY/w-d-xo.html
Ive been having an absolutely bear of a time getting the clutch system bled on my 91 f150. This is by far the best tip I've gotten all week. It's even better than the factory bleed procedure
Thanks!
My 1988 f250 has a rectangular orifice at the bottom of the master cyl. Res. So fancy pump I bought does not work
Also the slave cyl. Does not have a bleeder nipple on the fluid drain port. I.ve tried and tried to no avail.
@@robertchapple8113 try it with the pedal down first.
Me too. It's killed my soul trying to get the air out.
Did you ever get the system bleeded I know it's been 11 months ago
Brother thank you had a problem with my 94 ranger came across your video.i did it a little different but it worked keep up the good work and God bless you 🎉
@@FrankMelton-us8iq Thanks! Glad it helped.
I went out and bought one at Harbor Fraight today. Did my little ranger oh my god it was so much easier. Thank you for this video. I don’t have to struggle bleeding a clutch out on a Ford again.
Sweet
Good video thank you. My son and I have dropped the tranny on his 1995 Ford F150 . We replaced the clutch, slave cylinder, pressure plate and guide bearing' rear main and oil pan . After the assembly we had to bleed the slave cylinder and we had no luck. I found your video and went to purchase a vacuum had pump. I tired your method for a good couple hours without any success., Pedal up oedal down etc. Kept getting bubbles. Finally i took out the clutch master cylinder and line leading to the slave cylinder. After careful inspection, it was determined that the master cylinder was bad. Got a new master cylinder from Napa for 50$ . Then i bench bled the master cylinder and line ( hooked up together) by keeping the master cylinder tilted up and by exercising the master cylinder piston to get rid of the bubles trapped in the cylinder body. I made sure it was completely filled up with brake fluid. I reattached themaster cylinder back to the pedal and line quick connect back to the slave cylinder. Then I gravity bled the slave through the bleed screw on the bell housing until a few bubbles cam out. ( Roughly about 3 mater cylinder reservoirs worth of fluid) then i closed the bleed screw. Pedal was perfect .
Have a 85 ford I just put a clutch in and this saved me time on my back and brake fluid in me eyes! Thanks a lot for the video!!!
You’re welcome
Used your method sir and it worked perfect. 3 times vacume to 25 psi. And it was easy. Thanks for your wisdom.
You’re welcome
I own a 1981 f250 witha 1994 clutch and trans. I tried to bleed the clutch all day. I even removed the slave cylinder and bench bled it. When I put it back in, I tried some more to get the very last bit of air out. I only got more air back in. Then I saw this vid. I tried it. It works like a charm. Thanks for making this vid. It saved my week.
@@MooMoo-zd5ww That’s great!
Unbelievably easy! Incredible time saver! Even THIS GIRL could do it! THANKS SHAUN!
People like you make the world work, thanks brother
You’re welcome
I can’t believe this is the first time I’m seeing this! Absolute genius! I would avoid doing them, even though you could make great money on them, because they would NEVER BLEED! Thanks for sharing Shaun!
They’re the worst. Love the burnout video!
Holy smokes this is awesome. I was getting ready to pull the system and bench bleed vertically. This is WAY easier. Thank you!
You’re welcome
Are you friggin kidding me. This absolutely works. I just wish i seen it before spending 20 hours doing it the way ive done everything else. Pulled the slave out twice. Great video
Thanks!
I’m so glad I found your video! I had pumped and pumped with nothing improving! Grabbed my vacuum pump and did this procedure twice and done!!! Thank you so much!!!
That’s great, thanks for the feedback.
You’re welcome! Merry Christmas!!
@@earlkrantz4458 Merry Christmas to you.
This method helped me discover a leak in my master cylinder. No matter how much a tried, I could not get it to hold vacuum unless the clutch was pressed in. While trying to bleed I checked my floor mat and sure enough there was fluid coming from behind the clutch pedal. Thank you!
Nice!
Local Ford dealer was unable to get the air out of mine. 05 Ranger. I will give this a try. Thank you brother!
You’re welcome, this method has never failed me, let me know. I know they’re tough, my grandpa and then dad owned a Ford store. I sold them for 20 years. I’ve been fixing them for 15, fixing all brands actually.
it got lots of bubbles out of my 06!
Wow! Just did this on an '04 SuperDuty and it worked like a charm. No futzing with bleed screw. Genius!
Nice, thanks for the feedback.
This worked great. I appreciate you posting the video ahead of a heck of a time bleeding it. This is a whole lot easier and faster.
Thank you for the feedback.
Shawn, you saved my bacon with that bleed trick. I started with a good flush then three bleeds and then it was perfect. Thanks
You’re welcome
Great bit of information mechanic!! I was a wee bit confused NOT seeing the clear bottle with enough dot 3 . I purchased this tool as you suggested today I am looking forward to a success. Thank you.
Thank you Shaun!! Kick Ass Tech Tip! This is what the internet and TH-cam are all about. Cheers PSR
You’re welcome, thank you for the feedback!
This method saved my butt only way to finally get my 96 ranger up and going thank you good sir!!
You’re welcome
Thank you for helping me get the last little bit of air out of my F150's clutch, this video saved me so much time.
Cool!
I had a long time partner of mine.knowledgable for the most,but told me his clutch was going out,and he was grinding away at the gears big time.......I asked him a few times if he had checked the fluid level.he told me yes and ever since.he had to put alot in to refill it all way,since then hasn't used any,,😁so he popped hood and looked at the level,said see it's still all way full😫don't know what to do !!!!! So I just let him know about rubber boot you remove before filling.....pulled rubber (full)boot out and dry as a bone underneath.....cheap on fluids ????????
Best video brother! It worked for me. The shop could not figure it out. Thanks for oyur video.
@@heaven9036 You’re welcome.
This worked great for me. for background info: I have a 1997 F-150, 4.2L 4WD 5speed. Poor clutch response, and would not go into gear with engine running. It would when engine was off. Pumping the clutch would help it get into gear. Hit or miss with pumping. I found the reservoir in the engine bay empty, but didn't see any leaks around the truck. Thought my slave was bad, but my symptoms didn't add up to that. So, I grabbed one of these pumps and lots of new DOT3 fluid and began bleeding. I first gravity bled the slave for a bit to get flow out of the entire system, then started pumping the clutch and bleeding it this way. There were many, many large 'eruptions' of air into the pump, bringing pressure down to 0. This brought no resistance to the clutch pedal, making me feel like I was doing more damage, but I persisted and I repeated this probably 30 times until the pump gauge read and held at a steady ~24PSI, and no more air or crud came out of the lines. Clutch works well now. Thanks!
Thank you for the feedback! Glad it helped.
Competent mechanic! Thanks for the video. I hope this works for me otherwise it's a 2400 dollar clutch job. God bless 👍😎💯💪🙏
@@alanscott6241 good luck
I thought that I would try this on my Mustang but then I realized I have an automatic transmission. Oh well. Nice video though and good to see you back Shaun.
Hi Dan! It will work on automatics too, just drill a hole in the torque converter.
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
I'm doing this at lunch. I got the HF tool. 1999 Ranger got air in clutch petal piston again. I pulled it through into wheelwell 1 yr ago and was able to pull the snap ring and bleed the piston from there. Very tough job though. I bought a new MC but can't get trans line disconnected. Push in disconnect wore out. So I'll try this method, then another method puts a visegrip on the line to the trans and then you force petal to floor and air goes out through resevoir. First put front up higher on ramps to help. I got a lot of air in there. So I got a Ford I'll try your way today. Thanks good video, do more.
After talking of this method with a friend who is a bit smarter than I am, he compared this method to degassing of epoxy or silicone. You're removing ambient pressure from the system and therefore allowing the bubbles to expand to as large as they desire, making them much easier to capture and move around.
I took off my reservoir as I couldn't get a good seal to the bottom hole, and you NEED a good seal to make this method work. Directly to the line, I stuck a hose barb and synched it down tight with a hose clamp. I then pumped my hand pump down to around 28in/Hg. At this point I started noticing bubbles coming up from my system. While this vacuum was holding, I went inside and threw the clutch pedal around for a bit to break the bubbles loose. Steady amounts of bubbles continued to come out until they finally stopped. Reconnected my hose back to the reservoir, filled it up, and then felt the pedal. Good and stiff! Thank you for the video again, and your replies to my questions. I wrote this as an individual comment so it may be found more easily by people experiencing problems like I did.
Man!!!! I think this will work on my 92 Cherokee
Awesome job man, keep it simple
@@davidboatner3115 thanks!
Late to the party but this fixed my 1994 Mazda B3000 clutch issue as well! Thanks again for sharing.
You’re welcome, glad it worked!
Thanks for this .I ve been fighting my clutch all day
You’re welcome
You save me brother !!! I try this on my Lotus Esprit S4s it works fine from the second time. Thx a lot greetings from Greece
@@Dimistrader Good news, clear from Greece, wow!
I decided to bleed my 04 Ranger clutch. Was engaging high. No clutch after I tried to bleed it from underneath traditional way.😩 actually tried a Turkey blaster to force fluid thru(another video) didn’t work was looking at taking reservoir and line out to bleed, thank God I saw this video, went out bought mityvac, got my clutch back and it grabs about the middle now. Thanks so much!!
Thank you for the feedback! Glad it worked.
thank you, i was about to take it all apart. other channels had it way more complicated . going to harbor freight to grab a suction pump.😁👌
You may want to start with the pedal down, then move it up. Good luck!
Thank you so much for the video! I'm not very mechanical, but this fixed my problem instantly. Thanks again
@@Internet.Boomer Right on!
Takes innovation like this to get around the brilliant Ford engineering 😂 Thank you.
Go watch the dodge and Chevy how to’s for this. I just seen one and they had to pull slave off and use a steering puller to compress it. Looks way worse to me.
Hopefully this can help anyone that I had this issue with: my master had two small holes. With the clutch pressed in (disengaged) I was able to successfully bleed and hold pressure on the forward hole, closest to the headlights. I had to keep the clutch pedal pressed in with a stick against the seat and pedal. Once that was successfully bled, remove the stick and bleed the rearmost hole, closest to the tail lights. If I tried either hole in the reverse order I was just constantly suck fluid through the system, faster than the air was able to come out. It took me quite a few hours to figure out this order so hopefully I can save someone some time and a headache. Once I figured it out, it was very successful. Good luck
@@michaelpaige109 thanks!
It is absolutely wild how easy and effective this is
Thanks!
If I could, I would kiss you for making this video - You don't know how much trouble and frustration I have been through trying to bleed my hydraulic for clutch cylinders. I almost sold a truck good that just needed a clutch because I didn't want to deal with bleeding the master and slave cylinders. I tried this on my truck that still had a little bit of sponge on the petal and the air came right out - Thank you, Thank you, Thank you!!
You’re welcome, I’d probably giggle anyway.
Thanks, man, I'm old and I can't tear all that stuff apart again. So I'm gonna try that. Hopefully that fixes my problem. And I don't have to deal with it for a long long time. Next project shims M y g m c rear end
@@alive.off-grid good luck
I’m really looking forward to giving this a try in my 89 Ford F150 that ironically the same color as the one you’re working on in this video! LOL
Now I originally thought the clutch also got it’s fluid from the master brake cylinder and I never seen that tiny clutch cylinder hiding back behind the master brake cylinder where it’s at. Unless you know it’s there it’s easy to miss! It wasn’t till my clutch lost pressure that I came in and got on TH-cam and seen a video showing where that clutch cylinder is. Unfortunately by that time my system was too low and it’s obviously got air in the system now. Filling the cylinder up certainly helped but not enough to work as it should. I figured I have to climb underneath the truck somewhere to bleed it, also have another person to push the clutch down and hold it at the right times. Now I’m excited to try your method and hope I can accomplish getting the air out your way? Certainly would make life a little simpler! Thanks for sharing this! Only thing I may need is a new bleeder. Last one I got at HF didn’t really work right. It had leaks everywhere first time I used it. Tried putting small hose clamps on all the connections. But not sure if that’s solved the problem or not yet? Hope it did, will find out soon! If not I’ll buy a new one from another place other then HF. HF ok for some things and not so much for others!
Best of luck!
Never been so happy to have someone make me feel stupid!
😂
Amazingly elegant. Thanks for posting this.
You’re welcome
Best video out there. Simple but complete. Buying my vacuum bleeder now.
Thanks!
Gotta love social media for stuff like this....thank you
You’re welcome
Good tip! I wish I'd known this when I put a new clutch assembly in my '96 F-150 last year. No matter what I did, the pedal was a bit mushy. I just insured the truck and started driving it again and the pedal is firm and like new again. The system self bled while sitting for a year!
Thanks Shaun! Mech all my life never had to do one of these on a ford even though we've owned about 4 different stick ranger's over the years. Doing one now on an old 95 with 3.0. Just hope this fixes the problem and we don't have slave cylinder problems!
Good luck
Thank you Shaun! I'm going to get the bleeder immediately as I have a 2007 ford ranger and it won't go in any gear and have no pedal to speak of..I'm definitely not the damn truck whisperer(and female) so my dad is coaching me over the phone lol I was about to try opening the bleed valve under truck etc. but this seems like alot easier way and can be done by yourself as I don't have a mechanic fairy either lol thank you for this video I will def be watching more!
Good luck!
good stuff. On a different task, we changed the brake master cylinder on my Mazda and bled it 32 times but it was perfect after all that work :) Got a Ranger i'll try this on
Good stuff. I actually have one of those mighty vacs but never had to use it for that purpose. Probably because I never ran into a problem child during my 25 year career. Lucky me
I like your video and it worked after a long time trying it unsuccessfully.
I tried this multiple times and only got a few very small bubbles over the course of 3 days a few hours each. I was getting very frustrated.
I have an TKO 500 transmission in my 96 F-150 with a straight 6. I had an aftermarket hydraulic clutch system in it before that mounted on the outside of the transmission and it gave me issues for years. I eventually went with an American Powertrain hydraulic throwout bearing and a stock (not OEM) replacement Ford master cylinder but I got the aluminum one. Much better setup than that other one I had. I've had it installed for a couple years and it would jerk all over the place quite often when driving down the road and slip when I'd pull any kind of weight. I measured but something must not have been right. Took it apart to take some shims out and the bearing came apart and let the fluid out, which made the system full of air. Tried this method and it wasn't working. I took the hose off the master cylinder and it wasn't losing any fluid, just sat there. I figured it had some debris plugging the hole. Decided to take the master cylinder off. Disconnected the shaft from the pedal and fluid immediately started pouring out of the master cylinder. It couldn't have even been a 16th of an inch that it was pushed in to go over the nipple on the clutch pedal mechanicals.
Moral of the story, if you're having issues bleeding the clutch, try taking the shaft off the pedal from the master cylinder and see if the fluid flows. After I found this, I immediately started getting a firm pedal with this procedure. It's perfect now. After I figured that out, I had the clutch bled, the transmission bolted in, the starter and driveshaft mounted back on within an hour and a half. Great video.
Great tip, thank you!
Holy crap I'm going down to the barn to try that right now thank you.
You’re welcome
I did one of these a few years ago, and I was pulling my hair out trying to get the air out. I finally took the whole thing back apart, which meant pulling the tranny back out to get the slave cylinder out, and bench bled it. I sure wish I knew about this trick then!
I’ve been there!
This is incredible. You are a life saver. Truly. Thank you!!!
That is the way to do it..Leaving the line in reservoir with vacuum for a period of time is the answer..Nice ford trick.
Thanks!
Yall can save that 40 bucks by just using the hose and the sprayer off the gallon jug of weed killer, works just well, just run that hose down to the master cylinder, I usually push the clutch paddle all the way to the floor and use a 2×4 to hold it down while I'm bleeding the air out of it.
If you leave the pedal down, it will only bleed the master. Hood to start that way but, the do it again, with it up.
Works pretty good. I had to do mine like 20 times after removing and reassembling transmission. Pump held consistent so no leaks just had alot of air.
Reached a point where pedal was only 1/2-3/4 before I wasn't seeing any improvement. Had someone hold the pedal down and was able to progress but still had some air. Drove it around, then parked on incline and started vacuuming again and got about 85-90% pedal.
Repeated a few more times and finally got it all.
Tool is about $51 including tax from harbor freight. Thanks for the video
Thank you for the feedback. They can be difficult. Nice job.
I have a Jeep JK, which shares the same reservoir as the brake, unfortunately impossible to get to the hole in the bottom like you show. I also have a Centerforce concentric slave. Having trouble with shifting into 1st or Reverse when stopped sometimes. All research leans toward there is some air in the system. Tried vacuum off the reservoir cap multiple times, but it isn't getting the air out. Going to try an aftermarket reservoir dedicated for the clutch and your method. Hope it works out.
Make sure you don’t have any leaks at the slave or master as well. Good luck.
If you fill the slave with fluid before you install it and let the gravity fill the line before you install it then you can eliminate some this extra effort. These can be a real hair puller.
Okay I just watched a video on bleeding the slave valve on a clutch so there's a nut with that rubber boot is so it would be a two-person operation pump the brakes and then open that and get the air out of that right that's how I would get the air out of the system and get my pedal back if so thank you so much for giving me that information
@@DonBristow-g9y The problem with that method is that, it doesn’t work on Ford’s and some others.
Thank you! It worked on my Bronco, but not on my Ranger, only because the Clutch master cylinder was bad.
Having been there (2003 Ranger) and just gotten back, let me say:
1.) Pre-bleed, while you have the virgin part resting in your leathery hands;
2.) The cap with the two ports actually has three -- one on the bottom which takes the four-inch section provided (I bled mine without this in place -- it's spongey);
3.) Engagement with the former master was near the top of my boot, now it is just off the floor -- this what it means, "self-adjusting"?
4.) The Mityvac kit is well worth the money -- DIY, I saved myself four hundred bucks at _least;_
5.) I didn't need the 32oz jug of DOT3 -- but you might;
6.) Two years and over 150,000 views later, this is still salvation-at-a-click. Without your help, Shaun, I would still be standing in my carport and wondering "What the !*&# now?"
Bad design, glad it helped.
Nice I'm totally going this route. I will be doing it next week on my 84 bronco ii. I don't remember seeing the canister I'll have to search lol. My peddle feels dead, however it does come back up after I step on it, might I need something further than bleeding it?
As you disconnect pull out slow while having Dot fluid ready to pour in so it doesn’t go dry
I am gonna give this method a try for my 2007 ford focus as I have just replaced the clutch master cylinder!
Got the same vacuum pump from harbour freight today an pumped the air drove it around an did it again more bubbles came out did it three times an damn it worked great before I could not shift everybody telling me the clutch was,bad nope 30 minutes an it's great
Nice!
We successfully did this today. However, our mistake was not removing everything and attempting to get the most air out of the assembly before attempting the vacuum procedure.
1. We installed the new master cylinder straight away with no prep.
2. Initially, could only pull 15" of vacuum. Kept trying over and over again.
3. Decided to do a gravity flush of the system from the bleed valve on the transmission. Let approx 3 reservoir's worth of fluid go thru.
4. Next pull was able to get 26" of vacuum. After 3 hours, still pulling small amounts of air, no pedal. Sometimes with the clutch in, sometimes out.
5. Decided to start pumping the clutch while vacuuming. Eventually the clutch pressure started to build up. Yea! After about 45 minutes we finally had a usable clutch.
Overall about 4 hours starting with a totally dry reservoir and dry master cylinder. Hmmm. Next time I'm gonna do what I can to get the most air out of it before installing. Would've cut down on bleeding time for sure. Also, fwiw, we used the cheaper $25 harbor freight vacuum pump. Worked like a champ and was perfect for the job.
Thanks again for your excellent work and knowledge Shaun. It certainly helped me get my son's butt back on the road and back to work!
Did the harbor freight one come with the tip needed to do this job?
@@chiliboom6140 Should be able to see it in the package. If not AutoZone has one for 50. I am using that one and it has the tip.
@@EMC13sR Thank you kindly!
Hey there Holmes!!! Man am I glad I came across your video brother??? This is fantastic because I’ve got my MityVac…. I actually also felt a little change a month ago and because doing the vacuum on what I’m now thinking is just a single tube or single line…nothing special… I can test for a little leak down in my slave cylinder with the MityVac… if it’s not holding some suction then I’m in trouble!!! I’m going to bleed mine like you do and top off the fluid… is that break or power steering??? Or blinker fluid, Sir??? Really appreciate your information! I’m praying that it’s not leaking somewhere… I’m an army and a Air Force ROTC cadet who didn’t have the knees after college football to join my beloved Army Rangers Training … Did absolutely fantastic in my Basic Training then after several bumpy parachute landing’s in my jump training found out that my knees just didn’t have what it takes to be able to handle the landing’s!!! Really horrible news for me as I was planning on joining the Special Jump team and work on all those special occasions and events where the Army sends in their A-Team to do the stunts and exhibition skydiving events. Unfortunately you can’t ware a couple custom knee braces when you are a regular shlepper in the Army… but you can as a regular joe or a Civilian… so I’ve been able to complete my 1000 successful jumps certification and I’ll continue to try for 2000 and I’m still actively training with divers and getting the new jumper’s training help!
When I felt that little pressure change mid stroke that morning I was totally freaking out because the not knowing if my hydraulic clutch was just getting ready to fail!!! I’m under the impression that you get no warning… they just stop working!!! I’m adding fresh fluid and bleeding it and Thank Goodness for you!!! You Wonderfull Wonderful Man!!!! If it will hold a little vacuum then your slave cylinder down there isn’t leaking any fluid!!! Hallelujah Hallelujah if that’s the case because I felt a little pressure change when holding the clutch pedal off the floor a little and getting ready to engage first gear and take off!!! so I’m praying now that it was a little air bubble that had been sitting in there for 6 years and that it’s nothing!!! That tip to grab a point and pull vacuum on the line was just so huge… I really haven’t been able to slept more than a couple hours without a nightmare or dream about my truck breaking down !!! waking me up… I just gotta pull a vacuum and see if it holds for a couple minutes and at least then I’ll know if I need to replace the slave cylinder!!! And it’s way better to need to replace a slave cylinder for a hundred bucks or whatever then to need a new clutch!!! 😂👍😁😁😁😁😁😜😜😜😜😮😮😮😉😉✊😁😁😁😁.
So a huge amount of tension and stress was removed from me by your video! It gave me hope in a very poor and low time in my life!!! Just knowing that I can test it and know if I have a leaking or a solid system is huge!!! Absolutely huge when you are a bipolar nut case with some other stuff and you are in an extremely tight position… that compounds that stress and it’s like a 1” drill bit in my skull drilling my brain!!!
Thanks again for the video!!!
Too bad about your knees. Thanks for the kind words. Twice!!
Great Video ! I'm trying to figure out how to get the adapter cone down in where it needs to be on a 1985 F250. The line to the slave comes out of the front of my master cylinder instead of the bottom like the one in the video. Looking straight down into the master cylinder there is a hole for the fluid to go through. The hole is not round, possibly more oval shaped. Does the cone with attached line need to be fed through the hole and then toward the front of the master cylinder ?
I’m not sure, I’d have to see it. However you can get it to hold vacuum, is the trick.
Look at all that room under the hood. Damn I miss the good old days.
What exactly is it that I need to put the hose tip into, so the fluid that comes out with the bubbles doesn't need to be replaced?
Thanks for this great video
You’re putting it into the hole where the fluid travels into the tube.
this saved my asss today. thanks for the tip
Sweet!
Thank you! And yes, the Ford's are notorious for being difficult to bleed.
Had a bronco one time that the guy said the clutch needed blead and at that time I had no clue what to do. I’ll keep this method in mind. I have one of the vacuum pumps that I bleed my brakes with. By my self.
Thank you very much!!!!!!!! I just put hole new master and slave cylinder setup on my jeep yj . Could not get it to bleed out fully. I have the vacuum setup you have . Thanks 👍🇺🇲🇺🇲🇺🇲👍👍🙏
You’re welcome
My ranger clutch dang near stopped engaging when it got hot after hilly traffic today so i think ive got some air in there, gonna try this tomorrow and see if I can save my baby. After two slaves and a pressure plate our relationship has been strenuous to say the least.
What happend?
Hi there thanks for the video have a question for you I have a 99 Ford F-150 with a 4.2 L in it with this work on there? I'm having a hard time putting it into gear so I'm just wondering if this would be my problem.
Hi, if the parts aren’t new, you likely have a leak somewhere. It could also be, clutch or synchros. If the parts are new, then yes.
IF THIS METHOD DOES NOT WORK…meaning your pedal still springs to the floor, crawl under the vehicle while your reservoir is open and push the cylinder bracket that goes into your trans forward with your foot, make sure pedal is pushed in when you do this. you will see fluid shoot out everywhere but if you try it after doing that, it will now work
Works like a dream guy thanks lots bud
You’re welcome
Hey quick question! I’m doing the same procedure but bubbles keep coming out, the clutch feels ok but there’s a very stiff spot at the end of the travel. Should I take apart the system?
Try it with the pedal down. If after that you keep getting bubbles, you likely have a leak.
I’m having clutch problems when my 96 ranger runs for a little long but once I turn it off and let it sit for a few hours it starts to work again as it nothing was wrong. Hoping this fixes my problem
trying to understand what im doing wrong but i lose clutch pressure each time i try your method. its actually very easy to bleed from underneath but my issue seemed to be just a tiny amount of air until i tried this method n now im starting over from scratch. thanks
Are the parts new? Sounds like you have a leak.
@@greasyhandsauto-shaunbutte9726 yep new clutch new clutch pressure line new slave new master new resevoir clean new dot 3 brake fluid for resevoir. i got plenty of air out but no clutch pressure from the pedal. i refilled the resevoir probably 10 times
@@greasyhandsauto-shaunbutte9726 nothing leaking anywhere everything is dry underneath
@@MJsLandscaping-i9e check the access, on the bell housing and the master, under the dash. If they’re dry, try it with the pedal down and then pull it up. It’s my experience when, what you describe, happens that there’s a leak somewhere.
@@greasyhandsauto-shaunbutte9726 i dont see any leaks. if i pump the clutch up 5 or 6 times then crack the bleeder at the trans till solid fluid then close it before flow stops i can get clutch pressure but not enough. this is a 93 ranger 3.0 5spd. not sure if maybe ur method just isnt compatible with my truck. i bought a $20 hand vac pump thing like u got.
been fighting with my f250 for weeks. glad i found this video, looks like it will solve my problem as soon as a go to hf.
Thank you, going to hit it first thing tomorrow!!!!
All the luck.