How to replace your master cylinder, slave cylinder, and upgrade to a SS Braided clutch line! Like and comment below with your thoughts or share projects you would like to see us take on next!
Yes, very helpful vid! PROTIP for Miata Community: After installation of parts and doing the BLEED job...if you have trouble with getting all air bubbles out of line after numerous repeated attempts -- try removing the Bleed Screw and applying a couple of layers of Teflon Plumbers Tape (don't cover bleed hole, though) on threads. After a lot of frustration, this finally eliminated air leaking back into the Slave cylinder (despite the Bleed Screw being fully tightened), facilitating a vacuum for the air bubble-free flow of brake fluid and completion of the Bleeding. Hope this helps others facing this predicament !!
Yes, very helpful vid! PROTIP for Miata Community: After installation of parts and doing the BLEED job...if you have trouble with getting all air bubbles out of line after numerous repeated attempts -- try removing the Bleed Screw and applying a couple of layers of Teflon Plumbers Tape (don't cover bleed hole, though) on threads. After a lot of frustration, this finally eliminated air leaking back into the Slave cylinder (despite the Bleed Screw being fully tightened), facilitating a vacuum for the air bubble-free flow of brake fluid and completion of the Bleeding. Hope this helps others facing this predicament !!
I would recommend to rotate the house clamp on the brake booster, so that it's not facing your hands when you're breaking free the master cylinder bolts. Stupid clamp sent me to the ER.
So Sorry you were hurt!!!! Please wear razor proof gloves; they fit tight. Are you ok? Was the cut deep??? ?? Stitches??? I don't want my Brother hurt, he has MRSA. HE'S VERY SMART LIKE YOU GUYS! HE WAS ONLY GOING TO REPLACE THE SLAVE CYLINDER, UNTIL I FOUND YOUR VIDEO! THANKS SO MUCH GUYS!
I've watched a slew of informational videos on youtube covering this, specifically on a Miata. Your video, pro-tips, and walk-through were a tier above. While this job wasn't hard, I wanted to see what the Miata community was doing specifically. If I could tip ya I would! Nice!
I've been wanting to bleed my clutch for a while now,thanks for the video this will give enough confidence to do it soon.. GREAT... Neptali 1999 Mazda MX-5
My Miata has been making a grinding sound downshifting and occasionally going into reverse. My clutch feels a bit sloppy so I'm going to give this a try. Thank you!
Glad we could help out! Lots more things to come, if you have any other projects you want to try and get an idea of let us know. and congrats on the MSM!
try puting a small rubber hose on a bleader when you blead i use 50cm/20inch hose with small bottle on the other end with little bit dot4 inside prevents spillage mess and sucking air back
Spone85 I'm aware and often use that method with some rubber vacuum line when bleeding brakes but the slave is usually so quick and easy its just easier to throw a tray under there and be done with it.
Great vid, thanks. 1996 Miata M5 suddenly will not go into gear unless the car is not running and the clutch pedal has almost zero pressure. I replaced the master as well as the slave cylinder thinking that would fix the problem as there was fluid coming from the slave cylinder however there is still no pressure at the clutch pedal. Now I see that the slave cylinder is not being effected by the depression of the clutch pedal...any suggestions?
Get a vacuum bleeder and bleed it till the clutch pedal is stiff and it moves the slave, have someone else pump and hold the pedal and double check the lines from beginning to end for leaks. It is a very simply hydraulic circuit, either you have air in it or a leak or maybe a failed internal master cyl but only testing and verifying will narrow it down.
Hey have you guys ever replaced the clutch replaced the hydraulic system line and all and the car won’t go into gear? It will when the miatas off but won’t when the car is on I got a straight shot braided line from miataroadster but I can’t get the car to get into gear for the life of me after a few days bleeding it has no effect no depression once the slave is bled but liquid will come out of the nipple and pressure does build on the pedal not sure what I did wrong I’m afraid I didn’t install the pilot bearing or throw out bearing correctly only way to tell is to pull off the transmission god forbid I over torqued the PP any input will be appreciated thank you! 🙏
Overtorquing the PP is very unlikely to cause this, if nothing else are you sure the clutch fork is lined up and installed properly? If you have the system bled and are sure there is no air in it then when someone is pushing the pedal you need to see if the slave cyl rod is pushing it. If it is but not enough(which is what it sounds like since you cant get in gear) then you either have air in your line still and havent properly bled it, or your master cyl is bad, or your clutch pedal needs adjusted.
GearHeads thanks for the response!! I’ll look into it we swapped the rod for a longer one about 2 times hoping to get enough throw out of it I also adjusted the clutch pedal a few times as well but if the clutch fork is not lined up properly I figure we’re just working against ourselves
GearHeads hey no problem man thanks for replying I’ll look into what you told me I’m most likely to pull the transmission off again and take it from there
@@briancastaneda5500 Make sure your getting movement at the slave cylinder first and you have good pressure coming out the bleeder when you crack it open and someone is holding down on the pedal, you might have a weak Master Cyl. If the slave cyl fails it will leak, the masters CAN leak internally. Not saying thats it but eliminate the simple things before pulling the trans.
Hey I was driving one day and the car suddenly went off with a battery signal, like when it stalls after selecting the wrong gear. Then the next day I woke up to find I lost all pressure in the clutch pedal that now goes all the way without any resistance and the car won't go in to gear when it's on. When it's off, it still selects gears are smoothly as ever. My modest research lead me to this slave and master cylinder replacement, am I on the right path?
Yes you have a clutch hydraulic issue, either a leak in the line or slave cylinder or the master is bad. Check the fluid level if its still completely full and you dont see any other leaks on the line or slave cyl then its a bad master.
Really good video. Any different (parts or otherwise) for an NB? My symptoms are all of a sudden it won't go into gear. If I try to push it into gear with clutch in, the car actual creeps forward a bit. Can only get it into gear with car off, then start it and clutch behaves normally but only for that gear. Won't go back into gear after taking it out (unless car is off). Any ideas? Thanks!
btw parts off the shelf will be different part numbers but the NB is the exact same design. Slave and Master *may* have slightly different internal bore sizes but overall its the same as NA.
If you cant get it with a 10mm without spinning on the nut(which will mess up the nut and make it even harder) try and buy a 10mm Hex crows foot wrench from a parts store or online and you can apply more pressure that way to break it loose without damaging the nut. If the nut does get damaged, use a file and flatten the rounded edges to either try again with a smaller wrench or get two good flat spots and a pair of vice grips with a pipe over the top to break it loose. In this case though you'd want to end up replacing the nut/line!
I'm gonna bleed the system today. Recently replaced clutch and flywheel. The clutch was biting very low down on the pedal at first and recently started biting very high up on the pedal. Any ideas what might have happened to cause this?
Have you adjusted your pedal? and grabbing low would indicate lack of pressure usually failing cylinder or leak, grabbing high would be worn clutch disk or something else out of adjustment like the pedal. That doesnt make sense though that it changed on its own?
GearHeads i rememeber doing research and finding out that installing without bench bleeding can blow out seals, idk if that's true, either way, excellent video, signed loyal subscriber
i replace my slave cylinder but i cant get the clutch fork to move the slave cylinder with the pedal. So basically all the pedal pumping in the world wont do anything cause the shift fork isnt moving with the pedal at all. i even removed the slave and pushed against the fork with my hand and when my buddy pumped the clutch the fork didnt move at all so i dont know what to do any advice is much appreciated.
Hey sorry didnt see this we were on vacation in Mexico, but it definately sounds like you didnt get the system properly bled, unless your master completely failed but no movement sounds like air in the line.
yeaaah i figured it out i didnt understand how the hydraulic system worked, i though the clutch pedal was directly connected to the fork so i gave up and thought something else was wrong until my dad sent me a hydraulic clutch diagram and then it all made sense. My clutch now feels better than stock
I'm not sure about this bleeding method. usually what I see is 1) pedal down (one time!) 2) open bleeder 3) close 4) pedal up. don't see the need of the pumping, the fluid is not going anywhere.
Nebbia affaraccimiei Getting more bubbles and air out at once. No Mechanic I know(I am one too btw) only does one. In my opinion the best time is once you feel the pedal start to firm up. When you are first starting the bleed you might not have enough pressure to do this though so less pumps between opening the bleeder can be more effective. For the record your right the fluid isnt going anywhere! But unlike the fluid, air compresses and that is actually what you are trying to get rid of anyway, not fluid!
carlos reyes Hey man, got the SS braided clutch line from 949 Racing's website, google em. Goodwin Racing and Flyin Miata and BEGi probably all sell em to.
Can you see the movement on the slave? If the pedal is not getting stiff it may be a problem at the clutch itself and not lack of pressure in the line.
I got a "miata clutch line" from Goodridge and it has female connectors on each end, wtf is it for? It's pretty clear that I need a female to male line so that the male end can go into the slave cylinder.
I have not used that one before, but looking at it quickly, instead of the style you get from goodwin racing, or 949 racing(Like I have and used here) that replaces the whole line from the firewall down to the slave, the one you got likely ONLY replaces the rubber section of it, keeping that coiled hard line in tact like the factory one. Check that out as that would be my best guess.
Update: You were right! The one I got replaced the rubber section, and I kept the stock hard lines everywhere else. Man that bottom connection behind the engine was a bitch :P Everything else went smooth, thanks again
Awesome glad it worked out for you! Hopefully you don't have to touch it for a long time! But if you ever do, I know what you mean about that being a bitch to get to, the other options out there go straight from the firewall to the slave so they are much easier to deal with and give you more room to get your hands down there if you ever have to pull the transmission etc. Not worth replacing obviously since you just got a new one, but $30 for one down the line if you ever have to tear into it again might be worth it!
Here you guys are saving my ass again. I swear, I miss my old Miata. My “new” 92 has way more problems than the first. I swear, it’s the one ‘92 where they went “you know what Mg? How about you guys build this one?! You got this!”
Yea man its a bummer same thing with me! My white 90 gave me hardly any trouble, the 92 black one here I replaced it with has just been one thing after another and has been sitting most of the time because Im busy working on other cars all the time!
@@GearHeadsGarageChannel My 1999 has been great for years until lately, this problem came up. My BROTHER IS WONDERFUL, AN EXPERT, LIKE YOU GUYS! THANKS SO MUCH FOR YOUR CHANNEL!!!!!
Idk if anyone will respond but I'm having problems with my shit cause it's all new master cylinder, slave cylinder, and line but I cant get pressure back and the slave cylinder piston doesn't move? Help
Might want to get a cheap vacuum bleeder from a parts store and use suction to get the fluid coming through and bled properly. Make sure you have ALL air out of the lines, if you still have no pressure and there are no leaks and your slave piston isnt moving then maybe you need to adjust your clutch pedal but if that is the same as before I highly doubt it.
2:00 master cylinder location and drain instructions.
2:38 slave cylinder location and access.
3:54 slave cylinder drain.
4:28 hydraulic line removal.
4:48 slave cylinder removal.
5:47 hydraulic line removal 2.
6:40 hydraulic line removal 3.
7:54 SS hydraulic line install.
8:32 slave cylinder install.
10:21 master cylinder removal.
11:17 master cylinder install.
11:50 fluids.
12:35 bleed.
Yes, very helpful vid! PROTIP for Miata Community: After installation of parts and doing the BLEED job...if you have trouble with getting all air bubbles out of line after numerous repeated attempts -- try removing the Bleed Screw and applying a couple of layers of Teflon Plumbers Tape (don't cover bleed hole, though) on threads. After a lot of frustration, this finally eliminated air leaking back into the Slave cylinder (despite the Bleed Screw being fully tightened), facilitating a vacuum for the air bubble-free flow of brake fluid and completion of the Bleeding. Hope this helps others facing this predicament !!
Yes, very helpful vid! PROTIP for Miata Community: After installation of parts and doing the BLEED job...if you have trouble with getting all air bubbles out of line after numerous repeated attempts -- try removing the Bleed Screw and applying a couple of layers of Teflon Plumbers Tape (don't cover bleed hole, though) on threads. After a lot of frustration, this finally eliminated air leaking back into the Slave cylinder (despite the Bleed Screw being fully tightened), facilitating a vacuum for the air bubble-free flow of brake fluid and completion of the Bleeding. Hope this helps others facing this predicament !!
I’m having trouble with a leaky line from the hardline that feeds the slave cylinder, all new lines
I would recommend to rotate the house clamp on the brake booster, so that it's not facing your hands when you're breaking free the master cylinder bolts.
Stupid clamp sent me to the ER.
So Sorry you were hurt!!!! Please wear razor proof gloves; they fit tight. Are you ok? Was the cut deep??? ?? Stitches??? I don't want my Brother hurt, he has MRSA. HE'S VERY SMART LIKE YOU GUYS! HE WAS ONLY GOING TO REPLACE THE SLAVE CYLINDER, UNTIL I FOUND YOUR VIDEO! THANKS SO MUCH GUYS!
Soooooo we not gonna mention if you take off the front passenger tire you’d have an enormous amount of extra space ?
Common sense i guess😅
Fabulous! Step by step makes it so easy with your videos! Thank you
Awesome video & excellent info , step by step. Great camera work. Thanks guys, keep up the good work.
Kevin Cady Thank you for your support, we appreciate it!
I've watched a slew of informational videos on youtube covering this, specifically on a Miata. Your video, pro-tips, and walk-through were a tier above. While this job wasn't hard, I wanted to see what the Miata community was doing specifically. If I could tip ya I would! Nice!
Thank you man glad you found it helpful!
I've been wanting to bleed my clutch for a while now,thanks for the video this will give enough confidence to do it soon.. GREAT... Neptali 1999 Mazda MX-5
My Miata has been making a grinding sound downshifting and occasionally going into reverse. My clutch feels a bit sloppy so I'm going to give this a try. Thank you!
Yo my dude did you do it?
This was a VERY good video, man. Surrrre APPRECIATE you.
Thank you! Glad it was helpful 👍👍
Great info! Im servicing my recent-purchased MSM! Great video!
Glad we could help out! Lots more things to come, if you have any other projects you want to try and get an idea of let us know. and congrats on the MSM!
You guys are great presenters
Schweiz Thank you that means a lot!
Suuuuuuper helpful video guys. I literally just bought all these for my nb, thanks for the tips
Good and encouraging.
Thank you.
Videos like this are why I'm a patreon
+Kellan Moore Thank you so much for your support! We will continue to put vids out as we are able though it has been slow lately, sorry about that!
try puting a small rubber hose on a bleader when you blead
i use 50cm/20inch hose with small bottle on the other end with little bit dot4 inside
prevents spillage mess and sucking air back
Spone85 I'm aware and often use that method with some rubber vacuum line when bleeding brakes but the slave is usually so quick and easy its just easier to throw a tray under there and be done with it.
Thank you very Informative video!
Great vid, thanks. 1996 Miata M5 suddenly will not go into gear unless the car is not running and the clutch pedal has almost zero pressure. I replaced the master as well as the slave cylinder thinking that would fix the problem as there was fluid coming from the slave cylinder however there is still no pressure at the clutch pedal. Now I see that the slave cylinder is not being effected by the depression of the clutch pedal...any suggestions?
Get a vacuum bleeder and bleed it till the clutch pedal is stiff and it moves the slave, have someone else pump and hold the pedal and double check the lines from beginning to end for leaks. It is a very simply hydraulic circuit, either you have air in it or a leak or maybe a failed internal master cyl but only testing and verifying will narrow it down.
Very helpful!
Nice bleeding. Thanks.
Thanks!
Thank you! :)
“Go ahead and…” counter: 192
Hey have you guys ever replaced the clutch replaced the hydraulic system line and all and the car won’t go into gear? It will when the miatas off but won’t when the car is on I got a straight shot braided line from miataroadster but I can’t get the car to get into gear for the life of me after a few days bleeding it has no effect no depression once the slave is bled but liquid will come out of the nipple and pressure does build on the pedal not sure what I did wrong I’m afraid I didn’t install the pilot bearing or throw out bearing correctly only way to tell is to pull off the transmission god forbid I over torqued the PP any input will be appreciated thank you! 🙏
Overtorquing the PP is very unlikely to cause this, if nothing else are you sure the clutch fork is lined up and installed properly? If you have the system bled and are sure there is no air in it then when someone is pushing the pedal you need to see if the slave cyl rod is pushing it. If it is but not enough(which is what it sounds like since you cant get in gear) then you either have air in your line still and havent properly bled it, or your master cyl is bad, or your clutch pedal needs adjusted.
GearHeads thanks for the response!! I’ll look into it we swapped the rod for a longer one about 2 times hoping to get enough throw out of it I also adjusted the clutch pedal a few times as well but if the clutch fork is not lined up properly I figure we’re just working against ourselves
@@briancastaneda5500 idk sorry man I gave what info I could, nothin else I can help with without being there myself to see it.
GearHeads hey no problem man thanks for replying I’ll look into what you told me I’m most likely to pull the transmission off again and take it from there
@@briancastaneda5500 Make sure your getting movement at the slave cylinder first and you have good pressure coming out the bleeder when you crack it open and someone is holding down on the pedal, you might have a weak Master Cyl. If the slave cyl fails it will leak, the masters CAN leak internally. Not saying thats it but eliminate the simple things before pulling the trans.
Really good video doing this to my Miata soon. On an unrelated note would you happen to be related to Conan O’Brien?
😂😂 I get that more often than I thought I would. Apparantly I need to do a Conan Learns How To Fix A Car episode
Hi guys I like yours videos, any idea how to make a power steering conversion in a 1993 Mazda b2200?I need some help
You can get the power steering pump, maybe an idler pulley, lines, and steering rack from a truck that had it and it should bolt in.
Hey I was driving one day and the car suddenly went off with a battery signal, like when it stalls after selecting the wrong gear. Then the next day I woke up to find I lost all pressure in the clutch pedal that now goes all the way without any resistance and the car won't go in to gear when it's on. When it's off, it still selects gears are smoothly as ever. My modest research lead me to this slave and master cylinder replacement, am I on the right path?
Yes you have a clutch hydraulic issue, either a leak in the line or slave cylinder or the master is bad. Check the fluid level if its still completely full and you dont see any other leaks on the line or slave cyl then its a bad master.
Really good video. Any different (parts or otherwise) for an NB? My symptoms are all of a sudden it won't go into gear. If I try to push it into gear with clutch in, the car actual creeps forward a bit. Can only get it into gear with car off, then start it and clutch behaves normally but only for that gear. Won't go back into gear after taking it out (unless car is off). Any ideas? Thanks!
Definitely a failing master or slave or a leak. Dont try and push it into gear like that to make it creep itll hurt the synchro for first gear!
@@GearHeadsGarageChannel Roger that I won't! Really appreciate the prompt reply.
btw parts off the shelf will be different part numbers but the NB is the exact same design. Slave and Master *may* have slightly different internal bore sizes but overall its the same as NA.
😁
I’m having trouble getting my hardline bolt off on my old slave, using a 10mm and it just won’t budge, do you have any suggestions?
If you cant get it with a 10mm without spinning on the nut(which will mess up the nut and make it even harder) try and buy a 10mm Hex crows foot wrench from a parts store or online and you can apply more pressure that way to break it loose without damaging the nut. If the nut does get damaged, use a file and flatten the rounded edges to either try again with a smaller wrench or get two good flat spots and a pair of vice grips with a pipe over the top to break it loose. In this case though you'd want to end up replacing the nut/line!
I'm gonna bleed the system today. Recently replaced clutch and flywheel. The clutch was biting very low down on the pedal at first and recently started biting very high up on the pedal. Any ideas what might have happened to cause this?
Have you adjusted your pedal? and grabbing low would indicate lack of pressure usually failing cylinder or leak, grabbing high would be worn clutch disk or something else out of adjustment like the pedal. That doesnt make sense though that it changed on its own?
@@GearHeadsGarageChannel it's all backwards. Doesn't make sense. I bled the system and now it seems fine. Hope it'll continue like that.
My damn bleeder valve is rounded out fml
I have another video showing off some Twist sockets, look those up itll make kt easy, then you just need a new bleeder they are cheap.
I know this an old video but I'm planning on doing my slave cylinder here soon, but wouldn't it have been a good idea to bench bleed?
mazda_freak Your correct that would be a good idea to do, it bled fine either way though. Its definitely required for the Brake master
GearHeads i rememeber doing research and finding out that installing without bench bleeding can blow out seals, idk if that's true, either way, excellent video, signed loyal subscriber
i replace my slave cylinder but i cant get the clutch fork to move the slave cylinder with the pedal. So basically all the pedal pumping in the world wont do anything cause the shift fork isnt moving with the pedal at all. i even removed the slave and pushed against the fork with my hand and when my buddy pumped the clutch the fork didnt move at all so i dont know what to do any advice is much appreciated.
i dunno if replacing the master cylinder will solve this cause i do have a brand new one but i dont wanna use it if i dont have to
Hey sorry didnt see this we were on vacation in Mexico, but it definately sounds like you didnt get the system properly bled, unless your master completely failed but no movement sounds like air in the line.
yeaaah i figured it out i didnt understand how the hydraulic system worked, i though the clutch pedal was directly connected to the fork so i gave up and thought something else was wrong until my dad sent me a hydraulic clutch diagram and then it all made sense. My clutch now feels better than stock
I'm not sure about this bleeding method.
usually what I see is 1) pedal down (one time!) 2) open bleeder 3) close 4) pedal up.
don't see the need of the pumping, the fluid is not going anywhere.
Nebbia affaraccimiei Getting more bubbles and air out at once. No Mechanic I know(I am one too btw) only does one. In my opinion the best time is once you feel the pedal start to firm up. When you are first starting the bleed you might not have enough pressure to do this though so less pumps between opening the bleeder can be more effective.
For the record your right the fluid isnt going anywhere! But unlike the fluid, air compresses and that is actually what you are trying to get rid of anyway, not fluid!
Whenever I bleed it
where did you get your lines
carlos reyes Hey man, got the SS braided clutch line from 949 Racing's website, google em. Goodwin Racing and Flyin Miata and BEGi probably all sell em to.
OK thank you
No problem!
Visit a car wash and clean up that engine bay before you do the next one.
3:42 is that little black rubber boot important? When you pause the video the play button is directly onto of what I'm referring to
My lines won't bleed. I've been through 2 masters and 2 slaves. New oem line. It still won't build pressure.
Can you see the movement on the slave? If the pedal is not getting stiff it may be a problem at the clutch itself and not lack of pressure in the line.
I got a "miata clutch line" from Goodridge and it has female connectors on each end, wtf is it for? It's pretty clear that I need a female to male line so that the male end can go into the slave cylinder.
I have not used that one before, but looking at it quickly, instead of the style you get from goodwin racing, or 949 racing(Like I have and used here) that replaces the whole line from the firewall down to the slave, the one you got likely ONLY replaces the rubber section of it, keeping that coiled hard line in tact like the factory one. Check that out as that would be my best guess.
It's pretty short so that makes sense. Thanks a lot, my build is officially brought to you in part by Greg Peters and GearHeads Garage ;)
Glad to help! Haha and thats awesome! Greg is great =)
Update: You were right! The one I got replaced the rubber section, and I kept the stock hard lines everywhere else. Man that bottom connection behind the engine was a bitch :P Everything else went smooth, thanks again
Awesome glad it worked out for you! Hopefully you don't have to touch it for a long time! But if you ever do, I know what you mean about that being a bitch to get to, the other options out there go straight from the firewall to the slave so they are much easier to deal with and give you more room to get your hands down there if you ever have to pull the transmission etc. Not worth replacing obviously since you just got a new one, but $30 for one down the line if you ever have to tear into it again might be worth it!
Great video; keep up the good work. I'm amazed you guys don't have more likes on this one. Quality content.
Thank you Henry! We do our best and keep trying to get better but we are a small channel! Been doing it less than a year =P
Here you guys are saving my ass again. I swear, I miss my old Miata. My “new” 92 has way more problems than the first. I swear, it’s the one ‘92 where they went “you know what Mg? How about you guys build this one?! You got this!”
Yea man its a bummer same thing with me! My white 90 gave me hardly any trouble, the 92 black one here I replaced it with has just been one thing after another and has been sitting most of the time because Im busy working on other cars all the time!
@@GearHeadsGarageChannel My 1999 has been great for years until lately, this problem came up. My BROTHER IS WONDERFUL, AN EXPERT, LIKE YOU GUYS! THANKS SO MUCH FOR YOUR CHANNEL!!!!!
I just did this and honestly spray a load of WD40 or penetrating oil for a few days and everything comes off easily. ALSO BUY A FLARE NUT TOOL
So I just did this do I have to have the cap off of the clutch master cylinder
Idk if anyone will respond but I'm having problems with my shit cause it's all new master cylinder, slave cylinder, and line but I cant get pressure back and the slave cylinder piston doesn't move? Help
Might want to get a cheap vacuum bleeder from a parts store and use suction to get the fluid coming through and bled properly. Make sure you have ALL air out of the lines, if you still have no pressure and there are no leaks and your slave piston isnt moving then maybe you need to adjust your clutch pedal but if that is the same as before I highly doubt it.
why not use a vacuum bleeder to do this like you would on brakes?
That would be the best way if you have one! Was trying to show people how to DIY with common tools.
@@GearHeadsGarageChannel and two people.
Thanks guys!