What causes lines in the middle of a 3d print? Solve under extrusion problems mid print, halfway up!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 พ.ค. 2024
- So annoying when you come back to a print that was going well to find these naughty missing lines in it.
WHY DO THEY HAPPEN?!
Well, underextrusion and a partially blocked nozzle obviously. But there's more to it than that. Possibly.
No Eevees...were...harmed in the making of this video. Honest.
Please comment if you have anything to say!
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With a hardened nozzle, make that 220C. There is a larger temperature swing on hardened nozzles because of the lower heat conductivity, and you need to compensate or you will have under extrusion issues like this.
Yes! I gave up on hardened nozzles because I'd rather ruin a brass one than deal with the conductivity problems
Broooo I use 240C on my pla and it works wtf
There's a similar problem with infill that leaves under extruded sections in the same spot in each layer. It's caused by the having any friction on the heated bed cabling. The cable will pull taunt before the tension is released causing the nozzle to move too fast across the print leaving stringy bald spots in the infill. This happens consistently in each layer creating large voids in the print.
Solution?
@@riyadh1121 print out a support arm for the heated bed cabling to keep it from catching on other cables.
@@Mino_512 THANK YOU MY GOOD SIR! I was experiencing extremely consistent under-extrusion in the same places for a while now! I can finally print normally again o7
@@Mino_512 where can I find the STL file for this?
@@megamatthew75 how did you fix it
Thank you so much! I recently started printing much larger objects and got the under extrusion starting about 2cm up and it was driving me crazy until I found this video.
you, kind sir, absolutely saved my brain. i have been for the last two days investigating this topic and i had no clue. earned my sub. thanks again!
Man, you are smart as heck. Thank you so much. My printer is doing this EXACT thing. Stringing back and forth and then skipping layers. The first few hours worked amazing then it starts skipping and stringing, then it prints great, then goes back and fourth. Thank you for this video.
Wow thank you so much I’ve been struggling for so long with this problem not being able to diagnose it this video does a really awesome job at explaining the problem
thanks a lot. i’ve watched hundred of 3d videos, but this is the first time i see this explained. Saved one of my pla reels.
one of best videos ive ever watched on youtube, i am not going to pillage the rest of your videos
Dude you really put in work for this, not just talking about stuff and thats it, but actually getting things under microscope lol :D Thanks
Agree!! That helps alot.
Thanks temp and a drastic decrease to the retraction setting fixed my issue.
A very timely video. I had this problem this morning. My solution was to print slower, not really knowing the cause. I will try a higher temperature now. It really helps to know why things happen. Thanks: Latitude: -43° 31' 59.99" S Longitude: 172° 37' 59.99" E
Great video. I was printing some things using vase mode or "spiralise outer contour" with no problem, but when printing something more solid, the nozzle kept blocking around the same height. I couldn't understand why and never thought the residual temperature from the bed could be an issue the higher the nozzle gets, until I saw your video. Hopefully this is the reason my print is failing and I can resolve it. I have a printer enclosure that I haven't used yet, but I'm going to set it up tonight and see of the increased temperature helps. I also heard that with larger prints, sometimes the filament sensor can cause the filament to bend to much and stop it extruding properly. This isn't an issue for mine but thought I would mention it in case it helps anyone else. Thanks for the video, liked and subscribed!
Sry for necro posting, i had same trouble, on the same height nozzle became clogged. In my case it was some nev version of cura bug, when it puts interfacing supports mid air, after i changed cura version this issue gone.
Great video, suffered with this a few times and painstakingly came to a similar conclusion! Thanks!
At some point I guess I am gonna have to make a small wiki page with the most common issues like this, and the wavy patterns on the first layer...etc... When I get time! :)
I'm up to help with the wiki page if you need any help, there should also be a guide on proper calibration with test shapes rather than trying out random internet setttings
Thank you so much! I am new at 3d printing and this helped me a lot with my Creality ender 3 pro. I subscribed!
I was busy to print a month ago and got a weard underextrusion. And one guy said i must check the geer at filament feeder if its not dirty and causing filament to slip. So one night i removed that arm thats under spring tension and that plastic arm .... had a crack in it!!! So i was lucky to be blessed by the man where i bhought the printer who gave me his old spares which where still in good shape. I will in future get the aluminuim feeding stuff.
I never print lower than 220c for PLA but my speeds are slightly higher than normal though. But even at lower speeds I prefer the strength of printing at around 220c.
Same. I did drop to 215 once I started to use a CHT nozzle.
i usually print at 230 but i use pla pro/plus brands that like hotter temps. even regular pla though i usually dont go below 220
Did you find quality/detail suffered at high temps? I did a temp tower with a eSun PLA+ (my main go to), and the 230° looked the worst with stringing and sloppy outer walls and such, while the 200/205° looked best. I opted to go with the 205° and it’s served me well. I do have an issue with the midprint line though, thus here I am. I’m printing a larger part where it should be as strong as possible over quality, thought still shouldn’t look like crap either. And it’s around a 30h print each piece so fiddling with 5° increment tests per piece isn’t really practical here. Like another commenter said, I guess it’s a compromise between quality and strength with what temperature you do decide to print the part at.
@@Stopes. yeah 230 is too hot for esun i usually use fiberlogy ht pla or fiberlogy impact pla
my notes 🙂
1. faster speed -> need higher printing temp
2. extruder grip on filament
3. separate profiles for faster primting
4. older filsment tends to need higher temp
Awesome.. A long time ago I tested print an object with the same filament at different temperatures and at 195 c I got the best looking part, but the layer adhesion was weak.. At 215 c I got the strongest part but a lot of stringing, so at the end it was a compromise between those two.
Sounds about right. if the stringing isn't so bad, you can just melt it off with a quick blast of heat
my ender 6 with a biqu h2 has just one random layer like this every inch or so. the rest of the print is perfect. I think it's the biqu h2 ive had trouble with it not extruding properly before. Thanks for the video!!
There is another thing that can cause lines in the print.
If the extruder clicks, it is possible that the driver is overheating and turning off for safety reasons. When the temperature drops, it turns on again, this causes the extruder to click as the step is no longer matched.
Possible solutions are: Improve the cooling of the extruder driver or reduce its current.
The driver current must be correctly adjusted, if it is too high it will heat the driver and can damage the motor, if it is too low the extruder will not have power to work correctly.
Great work
Thank you! Massive fan of your tesla coils btw 👍
Amazing thankyou! I struggled with this for weeks. The weird thing is that some prints went completely fine and then when i reprint the same file it did it again.
I was printing at 120 mm/s on the Ender 5 S1 at 200C. Now printing at 100 mm/s at 210C checking it it is finally fixed!
Great stuff
I subscribed because of the music choice….. glorious
Nice, that was very helpful, thank you!
Very helpful thank you 🤙
4:30. Wow, that's interesting. I put my Ender 3 back into service after a few months of it being idle and I was having lots of under extrusion problems. I did manage to get some good prints with one of my PLA spools but all the others were a no go, even with the exact same gcode and print settings (same brand and type of PLA). I did suspect that age/humidity could've played a part, but I had no reference as to when and how PLA 'goes bad'. I'll try slowing the print down and upping the temperature for the others spools. Thanks for the tip and for the great video.
I have had pla go brittle with age. Simply falling apart in sections. After a session with the food dehydrator, printing has resumed.
I was/am having this exact problem, this video was very helpful. Cheers mate 👍🇦🇺😊
good luck! crank up the temp!
excellent, much learning and useful information. Thankyou one like achieved.
Your channel is *chef's kiss*. Liked, subscribed, commented.
Thank you 👍
I had something similar, but I notice that the end filament sensor was in some position holding the filament instead to allowed to move free, due the angle that was hang, I made a small piece to avoid the sensor flip too much when is feeding
really helpful video
Fantastic, thanks for that. I recently replaced my blown Ender 3 8-bit board with an SKR mini E3 2.0 and noticed the extruder was clicking causing underextrusion. It seems that stealthchop (the default in Klipper's example printer.cfg file) doesn't provide enough torque. Changing to spreadcycle fixed it without having to increase the current (slightly noisier though, but still OK).
I need to look into klipper. Some of the stuff there sounds pretty clever.
Thank you this helped a lot😊😊
Great video thanks just helped me out
For PLA drying filament, helped me reduce those artefacts( after video i guess moist is dropping temperature so this is why its happening)
I had those issues myself. I have printed at 215 for over a year on every type of PLA. Seems to have stopped, now I know why! Thanks for the video!
Very informative! You have a new subscriber, I would have been pulling my hair out over this.
welcome!
I print at a minimum temperature of 215c, and keep the bed at 65c. I find it works well, but occasionally have this problem. should I turn the nozzle temperature up by 5, or 10?
I had the a terrible under extrusion problem on my ender 3 pro immediately after upgrading the heat brake and persisted for a while. What was ending up happening is the stock cura retraction distance was fine for the the stock hot end but caused the filament to jam in the upgraded one due to an imperfect cut on the ptfe tube. By simply lowering the retraction distance by half. It solved all extrusion issues.
If this is the situation you currently find yourself. Try this along with temperature adjustments.
Oh..that makes sense! I'll keep an eye out for that when I do a heat break swap in a couple of weeks!
This solved my issue, The (extreme) difference between 3.0mm retraction and 1.8mm in some repetitive retraction sections of a print along with bed heat dissipation was causing a jam. I went from a creality metal upgraded extrusion gear system to a Winnsinn dual gear extrusion system. With the offset required for a direct drive mount (motor on top of the hot end) the repetitive retractions would cause the motor and dual gear extruder to rock back and forth causing the jams at the layers I would lose the excess heat from the print bed. Proved buy getting the line skips at a lower point on the print by deceasing the print bed heat. I will add to the design to reinforce the mount I am using to run a direct drive setup this to further decrease the chance of this happening again. A happy side affect 1.8mm retract looks like it's still more than enough with my setup to keep the prints nice and clean so faster and I may be able to go even shorter! .5 ???!!!????!!!!! Thanks again creator and commenter.
I have this problem even with my Sidewinder X1, which has a volcano hotend with direct drive. And I print PLA at 215, PETG at 250. Very frustrating..
I loveyour drawings.
Amazing thank you, been racking my brain on this for days.
it happened to me on 2 different highs on a large print. I've realized that at exactly at those points I've turned on my AC - also the under-extrusion happened only on the side closer to the AC
Thank you for your excellent work…………unlike the ones from the USA that last an hour +
Im using hero me gen 5 on ender 3 pro and having the problem your video helpt me so much i think the problem is about temperature end air flow because gen 5 is realy powerful thanks
Here goes a hard-to-imagine under-extrusion issue that happened to me: In enclosed machines, for loooooong printings, and when printing with PLA, it all begins nice and smooth. But at some height, it can happen you start having underextrusion or even no extrusion at all. And I hardly understood what was happening, becoused I used to leave the printer over night and found the mess at morning. But one day I saw it happen mid-printing, opened the enclosure and it was for sure hot insaid. And I tried to pull and push the filament in the extruder (direct), and voila! IT SLIPS!!!!! The area was so hot, that filament was getting a little bit too soft for the extruder gear to "bite" it and it was slipping, so no filament was going through.
My learning that day: increase the extruder presure on the filament, or use double-geared extruders, or if you are going to print at really high temperatures, maybe even consider bowden extruder out of the hot area. Or if you print with PLA, just leave the enclosure open.
Ohhh actually yeah that happens a lot, usually from heat from the extruder stepper motor, but yeah.
Interesting. I have an Ender 3 v2 with Sprite Extruder and i built a cabinet to house my two printers, but only one is giving me this under extrusion issue. I'll try to print it outside of the enclosure to see what's going on...
I had a new roll of PLA that did exactly this! Ended up printing at 220+ and still had issues - managed to return the roll & I've never had it happen since settling at 210 as my best temp...
Thank you, you helped resolve a 2 months issue I had, your solution to raise the heat and reduce carrier speed was great, I changed the spring, the extruder, went glass bed and installed a BR touch ... dumb right? One quick question the print is far better but I still get those weird lines but more shallow and at fixed intervals about every 1/2 inch, any ideals?
thank you again
At a guess, your extruder calibration is 99% correct, but not quite exact. It's hard to get E-steps right after an extruder swap, try lowering flow rate in cura a bit, and if that works, you know you need to lower the esteps.
@@LostInTech3D In Cura - Material - Flow - I have 9 different Flow setting (Wall Flow, Outer wall, Inner wall, Top/Bottom, etc.) that are at 100.0 each which one to ajust and by how much? Thank you again!
@Lost In Tech I will try to reduce the "flow" in the material setting from 100% to 95% and try again, thank you
Actually i had a short in my wiring harness to my extruder stepper that would go dead when in certian positions, but as it goes up the z axis will reconnect, probably due to excessive speed and janky direct drive upgrade
I was actually printing PLA at 240c with a CHT nozzle when I did an extreme speed print. It looked perfect. No bad smells either.
Great info!! I'm fairly new to 3D printing. I have a question what would cause your nozzle to scrape against your prince halfway through
im no expert, but in my experience that was due to uneven bed level
Tnx i got all i needed in 2 minutes
You are awesome
I'm not convinced...but thank you anyway 👍😀
Trying this now! Having this EXACT issue on my cr10s5
I'm a newbie and I have a question:
I've been working on this chess piece with PLA on my ender5 pro and I'm able to get a good print with a 40% infill and x3 line multiplier but when I try printing with a 50%+ infill with a 1x or more line multiplier I cant seem to get a good print it even has a hard time printing the build plate adhesion every signal time no matter the print at this point when I try printing at 50% or more infill layer seem to be separated strings and blobs, also i start getting problems with my feeder it starts skipping in fact not even able to complete the print it just gets to messy the it ends up ghost printing even if it starts off well it doesn't last (which is rare it starts off well) the only way I can get the print to at least attempt to complete the print (even at that print comes out out very bad) is if I lower the speed to 60% during the build plate adhesion stage and lower the flow to 80 and its weird because as soon as i lower the infill under 50% everything works well most of the time even my filament feeder stops skipping. I've change the nozzle, the Bowden tube, I've adjusted the retraction on my software, I've tried adjusting the feeder (even if the problem is only with (50% or more infill), I've releveled my printing bed, I've checked and and adjusted the x, y, and z motors and surrounding parts, the fan works fine. everything at the point is top shape so I don't understand what's the problem anything I show try or know? i even play with the temperature it help a bit at first but now im at 230C for simple PLA and it helped but only for a bit
I had a problem that looked exactly like this when printing ABS on my Ender 3V2. After extensive troubleshooting, I found a completely different root cause. I was using 0 cooling fan (because ABS) and the Creality board in my printer has a nasty design flaw where the electronics cooling fan is actually connected to the part cooling fan. No part cooling means the electronics cooling fan doesn't turn on. This was resulting in my E motor stepper driver overheating and starting to drop steps.Splicing the electronics fan into the hotend fan wire resolved the issue, as the electronics fan would always run when the hotend was at temp. Allowed me to finish printing the parts for my Voron.
I didnt print with abs yet and am in printing just a few months. But also noticed the fans that you spoke off . That makes sense what you said because long story short electronics dont like to overheat
Are those 2 fans identical for rpm? Like if I set the cooling fan to let's say 1 of the 270 or whatever speed it is, will the other fan be a 1 speed or is the electronic fan down there on/off?
Increase hot end to 215C. Got it mate. Would you be so kind to show us the result? For the same vase/vase mode, Before/ after.
Aging aka moist absortion that can be solved with a filament heater(some call it a baker)?
I had the exact same problem but a different cause.
usually a decent time into the print the extrusion stepper started clicking and I got underextrusion, but in my case it was the stepper driver getting way too hot
I,ve put a fan on it as a temporary solution, and I'm now working on a new sidepanel for my printer with an integrated 120mm fan and duct pointed directly at all the drivers.
it might be a faulty stepper - how hot is it getting? It's normal for them to get so hot they are uncomfortable to touch.
(sorry...read this properly...driver, not stepper. Yeah you're probably right. Some printers are known for this)
had the same problem on my ender3 v2, reducing the printing speed resolved the problem.
What would you recommend navigating between heatcreep and under extrusion? Slow down but keep the wee temp?
How about enabling adaptive heat in prusaslicer 5-+
I have the same symptoms you described, specially patsy raft at the beginning and stringy infill with some week walls, but the file is the same I ve used dozens of times and worked well, I even transferred it to another cr10 and still works fine. Doesnt that mean something is wrong with the hardware of the printer?
you might want to try a new nozzle I guess, and also check the nozzle is inserted flush against the (depending on the hot end) heat throat or PTFE tube
i increased my temperature and added a 10-20% more flow and now it works great on my geetech
the cheap Chinese hot ends will have trouble with the stronger materials like Duramic PETG. the filament path is like sandpaper and will causes these issues. if your buying cheap Chinese hotends then get the ones with the PTFE throat. if you have a Chinese all metal hotend you can still use it but it requires so much maintenance that its not worth the time.
Okay, but why would layers below that point, and layers above that point be perfect then? On a 45 mm thick part in only getting it about 60% of the way up. Everything above is fine so can it really be temps?
Yeah it tends to be sporadic
I have 2 ender 3 v2's and they both are having this issue, but in a weird manner. First machine I tested eSun PLA+ with a 20mm~ base and then it forks off into smaller "fingers". The fingers all have terrible under extruding. Last night put a new nozzle on, tried a temp tower and still had the same issue. Second machine is doing it a lot less but it's still there and it's VERY noticeable on small diameter prints, for example a hexagon of about 8mm~ width will not print smooth period. The eSun was printed at 230C and usually I print the cheap no brand at 210/215C.
Totally reset my cura profile to the default standard quality and still having the issue...Have no idea what the problem is. I have a 5x5 probe grid with a bltouch. My esteps are calibrated, and even tried upping it to over extrude to no avail. Tried increasing flow to 102/103%. still nothing. Ptfe tube has been cut flush to the nozzle. Seemingly no wiggle in my ptfe tube at either end and the extruder gears have a firm grip on my filament, so no slippage. Tried to turn retraction off entirely/lower it still nothing.
These machines were working fine for ages, but now I am having SO much trouble with them. It's not all the time though, because last night I printed an 8 hour print of a large object and basically zero under extrusion, maybe the smallest but it is so unnoticeable......but when I go to print small objects, even with basically no detail, they just totally under extrude.
I am at my wits end....I have no clue what to do...I feel as if I have tried it all.....Do you possibly have any suggestions?
Have you solved it? I have similar problem. It's printing well on the first few layers then during infill it under extrudes. It's so frustrating.
@@Silver-nm2if Yes but I'm not sure how. Could have been a combination of a lot of things. What I can suggest is that you try Simplify3D instead of Cura, I was getting super clean prints with basic Simplify3d settings to the point I was selling a few prints. If you want to keep cura try a video from a creator called NeedItMakeIt about ender 3 v2 and his cleanest print, he prints a statue. I was able to replicate it with the same results using his profile.
From what I remember about this, the main thing for me was the filament was bad. At least that's my opinion, I could be horribly wrong, but I was getting pretty good results on 3-4 year old filament then swapped back to that one and got bad results.
Its intresting... I print at 220°c az 90mm/s
I never had this problem but suddenly it hapenes.... Beautiful results, and now crap... filament is farely fresh too bought it a couple weeks ago. Nozzle is brand new in it too... I maby need a new heahtingblokk and a heater all the other parts in the hotend are new...
What's the downside of always printing PLA at the highest temp? I do and I adjusted the stringing out with retract settings. Does it cause some issues with the PLA or the printer?
For anyone wondering the same: you get worse overhangs/bridging and need to increase cooling to compensate.
thank
is there a reason mine only happen near starts or stops? it's so irritating. seems like i've done everything but change my whole hot end but don't see how that could be the problem.
Hey! Do you have somewhere I can send you a photo and you can tell me what I am experiencing? I am new to the print world. I am getting prints, but not clean as they should be.
Ha, some of the PLA filaments may require up to 235C to print it consistently.
yeah print temps have gone up by 20C since I made this vid, crazy
Pla 235°c on bambu lab , 230 on my ender 5 plus, most people make the mistake with their over engineerd coolfan with wind blowing on the extruder thats why i never witnessed this problem before, your cooling should never cool the extruder.
When I use my speed profile I print my pla at 235c to 260c but only if fully maxing out. I print 215-220c for most of my PLA prints now days. Unless it's polymaker I print it around 200-205c for normal printing.
yeah ya gotta remember that if you're printing fast enough, the temperature you set isnt ever going to be reached on the filament, so 260C isnt really 260C :)
@@LostInTech3D that's a good point. I also noticed that the printers I have wit Volcano style hotends I can get away with the lower side of Temps. Unless of course I am going for the fastest beachy I can get.
Which reminds me,i got to tune my vzbot do you have any pointers on blobs/zits? I have tried all the tuning options that normally work on marlin but I still have the issue after going to klipper.
Check your z seam and coasting settings, those are notorious for causing blobs
@@LostInTech3D I will keep adjusting coasting and see where it gets me.i can see exactly where the z seam is.
Thanks.
I always add 6 0r 11 degs to the filament temp and works fine
yes basically same here - I print a lot hotter than I used to back a couple of years ago, I started at 185C!
I think mine is from leaving my filament out so I’m going to try printing slower and hotter. If that doesn’t work then I give up on 3D printing
Hmm... more heat-->more stringing, but it's way better to have some strings that you can easily remove than to have a print almost fail. Thank you, now I'll never go below 210°C for PLA and will set it to go to 215°C when the hotend reaches 5cm above the bed.
I once had a specific part at certain layers cause too many retractions, rotate the part in slicer or disable retraction solve the problem
to me this indicates maybe retraction settings need looking at, because you can set things like limits on retraction at least in cura.
nice video
Thank you! 👍
I have this problem with Silk PLA's. They seem to clog the nozzle way more than regular PLA's. I have to print them at 230 deg and I still have problems unless I disable retraction.
Whats the retraction speed ,you may need to adjust the speed retraction and distance ,distance shouldn't be no more than 6
@@grillonewyork I have been using a slower retraction speed than I used to (25 mm/s now). I think that helps. But still have issues with silk PLA's.
I have an ender 3V2 and I’m having this problem with Form Ultra Andromeda purple filament, my bed temperature is 55c and the nozzle temp is 215c. Should I slow the print speed down or increase the temperature again?
I don't have all your parameters but the answer is probably try both! Come over to discord if you want to show me some images of what you have and we can work it out. 👍
@@LostInTech3D ok, I will
@@LostInTech3D it worked, I also joined the discord. Thanks for the help, and I look forward to learning more!
Had a similar problem. In my case, the the extruder motor was burning out.
Hi. I have a question. I got an Ender 3 and did a few prints. They came out ok. But I just change my slicer to Cura and now it's "skipping" the lowers wall layers. It prints the base prefect, makes the infill, doesn't print the wall for about 3 layers, then finishes the rest of the project just fine. It's driving me nuts. Any ideas?
check the flow rate in the preview, if it's over about 12, that'll be why
I've had similar issue. Woke me up twice in the night with the clicking noise. I'm the final 20% of a 14hr print it's changing the tree support infill to another type and looks almost 100% infill. At that point it's separated and on the corners looks likes someone's indented or peeled it up with a knife. Is that the same issue? Help! I don't have much patience for another 14hr failed print 😅😢
I recently had this issue. I tried increasing temperature and decreasing speed, but neither helped. I ended up having to disable retraction to get the print done successfully.
How's your cold end cooling?
I had heatcreep constantly after 1 hour of printing, I've fixed it with overkill cooling fans now
@@NM-wd7kx I think it's okay but I should keep a closer eye on it to check
💕👍
The issue Im having is about 38 to 40% the temperture changes and the print PLA starts to stop coming out. This has happen 3 different times. Can anyone help.
I’m not sure if this is my problem. It started out that way, a print failed halfway through, but ever since then I’m getting the clicking and under-extrusion after unloading, reloading, trying a couple different prints. Is that a clog? I even switched out the filaments, and the new one comes through, it’s just still under-extruding.
clicking and underextrusion does tend to indicate a clog, but sometimes something else caused the clog, like I've seen it happen if you try to print the first layer too close, it blocks the nozzle up. So, you always have to be mindful of the whole system, but yeah...a clog.
I had this issue and slowed my print down from 100% to 75%. Also disabled z hop.
Im already printing at 215 and getting minor underextrusion. not print ruining but annoying.
there are other reasons. Check the filament isn't degraded, also check the extruder isn't damaged (creality one, the arm cracks, etc)
i printing pla on 190*C with 80mm/s🤔
2:30... whos birthday cake you putting frosting on? do they have 3d frosting printers or are you the inventor here?
This happend to me with many retractions until the filament got stuck inside..
I've not no clogs tired all temperature towers retraction Luke Hatfield's hotend mod replaced extruder with all metal extruder and. Still think having this problem
Had to watch this twice because im stupid but am I right it thinking its basically one, some or all of the following...
- blocked nozzle
- extruder's losing grip
- temp too low
- speed too fast
right? (sorry)
yeah that seems like a reasonable list of possible causes to try to work through!
My printer is printing a meshy material and i dont know why
It's underextrusion, usually a blockage, bad filament, too low temperature, etc etc
Thanks
All you need to do is change your heater. I use a 60 W heater no problems.
Hmm, no, that's not how it works, and I can prove it. You need to increase the heating interface, the heater itself is not the bottleneck.
But I don't think this is within the scope of the video, check my two vase mode videos for discussion about this 👍
@@LostInTech3D I can print over a 100 mm/s even with a.8 mm nozzle, no problem melting the filament.
Nope, you have a gap between the nozzle and PTFE tube, that's why you have a blocked nozzle.
I don't, because that printer had an all metal heat break. The "creality problem" tends to be more catastrophic.
I'm looking at this problem right now as it's printing. It only happened on 1 layer.
upon further inspection mine has over extruded for a long stretch of only one part of a layer. Figure that out. On this print the preceding and proceeding several layers are the same identical shape.
smells like a blockage that resolved itself to me. Temperature issues?
@@LostInTech3D Ugh. Definitely some extrusion problems. I have 4 top & bottom layers but the bottom after removing supports has holes everywhere & other spots that look wrong.