Thanks to watching your Video I had coolant coming out of the overflow for about 12months and could not work out why? Finally overheated a couple of times took it to my mechanic and he said he could not find any issues. After overheated a few more time I took it to mitsubishi dealership and after a bit of back and forth they finally approved my new long engine replacement! Took 7weeks to get the result but very happy! Thanks Max for making this miracle possible 🙏
Hey Max My 2014 MN GLXR has been overheating for months and myself and my mechanic are pulling our hair out trying to figure what’s going on. But after watching your video I took it to my local dealer and 2 days after booking it in for a diagnostic and stress test I just got word today they are doing a long motor replacement! Max you are a LEGEND! Thank you for this video
Had my 2013 MN spit a gasket and seen this video. Took my car into the local Mitsubishi and did the tests etc. Got my car back yesterday. Brand new engine out of warranty. My car had 250,000km when I took it in. Stoked!
Hey Mate think mine has done it now but is 1 2014 model and 160,000. Did you have any pushback from Mitsubishi saying they were not going to be replaced? Also, any modification on your triton or fully stock as I heard they will use any excuse not to swap out a bad motor. Cheers
@@Mark5Fish Hey mate, Nah was fully stock. Didn't have any issues with Mitsubishi. I took it in and a week later the dealer rang me and said Mitsubishi Australia approved it. Was pretty easy process honestly
Hi MM, thanks to you video, I have just had my MN 2014 Triton's engine replaced by Mitsubishi due to overheating / over pressurised cooling system. It was process over 16 months after i started to investigate and go down the path with Mitsubishi and spent over $1800 of my own money, the new long engine is in and i'm hoping that is the end of the saga. Love watching your videos, very informative. Keep them coming.
Good to hear you had a positive outcome Chris. I have a lot of Triton videos on the channel, so feel free to have a look around. I will be putting out other Triton videos in the future, so don't forget to subscribe 😉
Hi mate, the long motors come with new injectors already installed. That's why you get new pipes, old pump is used and long motor comes with a timing belt just not fitted so the dealership has todo the timing and valve clearances also Enjoy your content! Keep it up!
Great video,when I'm diagnosing overheating problems most times I remove the water pump belt and run the engine just to verify that there is compression in the cooling system
Hi Max we had the long motor replaced. 2010 pb with 295000 kms under warranty. Motorama at Springwood were amazing!! About 18 months ago. Actually a really nice car to drive!!
Hey Mate, great news! I am about to start this journey. My 2014 MN GLX has overheated 3 time in the past 3 months. After my mechanic replaced the thermostat its still spewing out of the reservoir and overheating. I have booked it in with Motorama for it to be diagnosed. Are you able to give me any advice or guidance or how it might play out? And @MiracleMax thank you again for uploading this video me and my mechanic are grateful
@QueenStreetCowboy firstly i prayed and asked God to help. Then i very politely made it known what i thought the cause was aka very well known issue and they tested it. Took them a few days to test it to prove the failure. Then sent away a request which got approved for a replacement. All up took about a month or so to be sorted.
@@jamesm2099 well I did the same and prayed too hhah. But like you I was polite and let them do their testing. After 2 days since they did the test I got told today they are replacing the motor. Thanks again for your feedback
This is an old story now, but I have a 2013 Mitsubishi Challenger that runs the 2.5 Diesel which I have owned from new. I had the engine fail, and then replaced at 38.5k kilometres. The second motor failed after it has done 150k kilometres (190k kilometres on the clock). Did a reconditioned motor exchange. It has started presenting the same symptoms after 9 days of driving. I have heard the Mitsubishi story about the fault with metal occlusions in the head causing failure, and now the one about the bad machining of the blocks. I have come to suspect it is just a badly designed engine with some kind of fundamental floor. I understand the 2.4 litre diesel is a slightly modified version of the 2.5, and I suspect it was simply created to address whatever is fundamentally wrong with the 2.5 litre motor. I don't trust the 2.4 litre engine either, as I have started hearing gossip that it is presenting overheat issues as well. Since I am on my fourth round of this issue I would note that the overheat has typically occurred during long runs (200 to 500km trips in a day - which I do fairly regularly) and also the failures have always occurred as pairs. First failure I get the car back from a 'shop' with advice 'there is nothing wrong', second failure about two to four weeks later that is 'terminal'. Also three out of four failures have with a pattern of a) Drive car for 2 to 4 hours. b) Stop for a break of approx 45 minutes. c) Drive for 20 to 40 minutes and get an overheat event. Bottom line is I don't trust these engines at all, as nothing has changed in the pattern of failure for three different engines in the same vehicle. Oh - and as an after note, I rarely tow anything.
I can only begin to imagine your frustration Justin! The earlier 4D56 had no overheating issues Have you taken your engine into a dealership to be assessed? It could still be classified as a warranty. Worth a try at least.
Hi Max, Just wanted to say a massive thank you for your video on this. The details you highlight that this vehicle had was exactly what my 2013 MN had. The short story is, I was driving up the Sunshine Coast towing my (just) under 750kg camper in 4th gear most of the way (averaging 2800rpm), 1.5km off the highway, the temperature increased just below red and engine light came on, IT WAS BLOODY QUICK! Sitting on the side of the road, I watched this video and thought "Yep, this guy is all over the issue". Got it booked into a Mitsubishi in Brisbane and within two days, I had an approved long block from Mitsubishi and they even replaced the clutch at a reduced rate, as they already had the motor out. Pretty good feeling that Mitsi come through for this stuff and I am thoroughly impressed. I do want to ask though, would you recommend getting a fuel filter and catch can fitted with this brand new 4D56? I understand dealerships do not like you doing it. But I cannot for the life of me figure out why? Mate, thanks so much again. I recommend your channel to everyone now.
That's great news Scott! I have found that Mitsubishi has been reasonable with this issue. It's a shame that this has happened and turned into such a problem. Obviously if they don't have to pay for the repair that is understandable, but when the time comes, I have found that Mitsi has been pretty good. Sometimes the dealerships have created problems, but not necessarily Mitsi themselves, I have fitted quality catch cans to several Tritons with no issues. I always get the specific fit ones as they are easier to fit and looks heaps more professional. A local earthmoving company where I teach the apprentices, always fit a secondary fuel filter as a matter of course. They are internal vehicles just for the company, but never have had an issue.
Hi MiracleMAX, Sorry for the late update. I got my MN Triton back a few weeks ago. After most of cooling system components get replaced. There is new thermostat, new coolant, new water pump and new timing belt etc. The car is no longer overheating for the first a few days after I got it back. However, the needle of the coolant temp gauge started moving up later when I was driving. It didn't reach the red line but it moved to 3.5/5 and 4/5. I was thinking "holy crap" and why is it still overheating if it passed the stress test and all the components have been replaced. And when I was throwing my anger at MMAL by posting in the newtriton forum, one of the bloke there he suggested me to drive the car with an ODB2 reader because the gauge may not be accurate. And I did accordingly in the following trips. I found the CTS data from the ODB2 reader is always between 84c-90c which is safe. But the gauge needle do move a little when the temp goes up even the temp is still within the safe range. After proving that although the gauge is flutuating but the car is actually not overheating many times, I thought the overheating problem is solved. Yestoday, when I was trying to figure out why my MN triton's trailer break is not working properly. I found the main "earth" connection from the battery's negative terminal to the car body chasis is not connected at all. I think when somebody replace the battery they left the connection undone because the cable is a little short for the bolt to connect. So the car's negative terminal is not connected to the frame. Actually I have noticed this long time ago but I thought this may not affect the car's operation. So I found a long bolt and bolt the connection on so the negative terminal of the battery is connected to the frame. Guess what. After I did that the temperature gauge never moves once it reach the middle. Interesting! I will drive more with the car to confirm that and try to figure out why my trailer break lights not working.
That's great news & a great idea to look at live data while driving. Electrical components can do crazy things when there is a poor earth or no earth at all. I hope that has sorted all your overheating issues. Thanks again for sharing your updates.
Hey, thanks for this informative video. I’m facing very similar issues on my 2nd hand 2014 MN Triton. My mechanic suspects head gasket but feel like it’s the engine issue. Mitsubishi are quoting me $750 just for the diagnostic, only issue is the car has modifications such as bull bar, lights, canopy etc. and the servicing has been done at other car mechanics and not Mitsubishi. I’m concerned they will push back and say the overheating is due to poor airflow, which I really don’t think it. Any advice? Did this Mitsubishi have full dealership servicing history / any modifications?
Unfortunately, this is Mitsubishi's process, which is fair enough. Yes it must have the service history and depending on who you take it to as to what they will question. Sounds pretty steep for the diagnostic cost
@@MiracleMAX Currently driving a 2010 L200 in the Scottish Highlands.... This video is similar to watching plane crashes the day before you fly 🤣. Makes me nervous. Thank you for the information in the video 👍
@@trigtrigger9794 Don't panic my Scottish friend! I have seen plenty of Triton/L200s last a long time when serviced correctly & regularly. There was only a certain amount of failed ones...... hopefully not yours though! 😊 Check out other Triton videos on the channel. Thanks for your comment. Here at the moment in Oz it feels like a Scottish summer......lots of rain & flooding 😂
@@MiracleMAX You will still be warmer than us 😁. We are approaching summer and having fresh snow on the mountains! 2.C ground level. Ironically I am sitting at work with 3 bearded dragons from your way.. 09:20 am here. I need to find out which models had over heating issues, I will have a look around on your channel. EGR is deleted but need to do catch can ..
2.5 4D56 turbo Diesel engine has a common over heating issue due to manufacturing defect. Mitsubishi didn’t recall all the triton and check and replace the engine block with the issue. What they did is a campaign to “cover it up” and delay the showing of the problem. I bought a 2nd hand mn triton(10yr old). And unluckily after 4 month the engine start over heating. I have an old 2005 triton Ute with 4g64 engine. Bought it at 10 year old with 150k on the clock. Now it is about 320k and 17 years old. It never missed a beat and other than normal wear and tear the engine is so reliable and that is why I trusted Mitsubishi and bought the mn triton. But it seems to me, Mitsubishi was doing the same thing as what takata air bag did by covering up the issue instead of correcting them properly. So if you are thinking of buying a second hand triton with 4d56 engine, be careful.
@@MiracleMAX Thank you very much for your reply. because when I bought the car from the dealer, it comes with a warranty from iwarranty. And if I want to make a claim then I will have to use their mechanics. I went to the mechanic and they told me that the viscous fan cluth is faulty and it needs to be replaced 1st. And if after replacing the fan cluth if it is still overheating. they need to send the radiator away and get it tested for blockage. I am still waiting for the warranty claim to be processed and hoping this will fix the problem. Finger crossed.
@@MiracleMAX Got the Car back 2 days ago and the car is still over heating intermittently after the engine reachs the optimum temperature. It seems to me that the temp gauge raises soon after the engine runs for a while. and then when it is idling. The temp will drop slowly. The mech recommended by the insurance company said he tested it a few km and let the car idled for half an hour and no issue. And he is blaming the used part approved by the insurance company.
@@aaronbozhang Pass the blame........what's your next step? Is it losing coolant? Is there excessive coolant in the overflow bottle? No oil in the coolant and vice versa? Can you check your temp gauge accuracy with a scan tool? Did they do the fan as well as clean the radiator? Was a thermostat done?
Yes the MN Triton's are a worry. I have one (2015) & the engine has just started getting hot but the coolant, thermostat & water-pump are fine & it has decent oil pressure too. I was thinking (praying) that it maybe a restricted exhaust system as everything else checks out fine. But the heat expansion & cooling contraction noises coming from this motor are so loud that they send shivers up my spine. And you can even hear the expansion noises while you are driving it, & in this Brisbane heat somethings got to give sooner or later.
So have you done the testing procedure to see if it is a blown head gasket? Or maybe the EGR cooler? Does the overflow tank get pressurised? Any smoke on start up? Coolant loss? Have you had the radiator checked for blockage? Does the temp reading go excessively high?
@@MiracleMAX Thanks MAX, All the above tests have been done and it seems fine. The temp always stays between 82 deg C & 84 deg C. The only part that seems to get abnormally hot is the vacuum pump. All checks including SCV fuel mixture & timing are fine too. No smoke on start or while driving, no coolant loss. The thermostat, full exhaust system & Viscous fan have been replaced. But it still makes super loud Horrendous cracking thermal noises while driving but it mainly does it while sitting after shut down. Actually when I'm driving it is so violent that I can feel the noise resonate through the pedals and the steering wheel. It also does it with heat-shields removed. I have tightened all exhaust manifold bolts as well and there are no cracks in it. The only other thing I can think of now is that maybe the engine oil cooler is blocked or restricted. So far this problem has got everyone beat, but I can tell that something has got to give sooner or later.
@@robertboyd321 It'll be interesting to see what the actual fault is. Let us know what you find. How many Kms has the engine done? Is the turbo desired and actual boost in live data the same? You said that it is overheating, but 'the temp always stays between 82 deg C & 84 deg C.' What temperature are you referring to? Are you sure the noise is engine related? Can you hear the noise free revving - just in the workshop bay?
@@MiracleMAX It has done only 76.000K, Has a manual boost valve (Tillix) fitted and it boosts 19 PSI maximum, & there is no longer any lag which has been great. But I have tried it with the Factory Boost controller which doesn't stop the heat & noise. The heat I am trying to describe is the actual engine & accessories. I know they run hot but after a short drive if you spit or drop water on the vacuum pump the liquid sizzles & turns to steam, it will burn your skin too & you cannot touch the throttle body either because it is almost as hot. Now in my opinion that is way too hot. I will fit a new engine oil cooler this weekend & back flush the oil & water feed tubes and see if that sorts it out. A friend said that maybe a water jacket is blocked or maybe it has an air bubble caught in the front of the head, but I think the cooling Temp would rise if that was the case. I know that they are difficult to expel all the air out of the cooling system but I don't think that is the cause.. I will let U know if I either get it sorted or throw a match in it..
@@robertboyd321 You are right, if there was an air pocket of something similar, the coolant temp would rise. Hopefully you can sort the issue. Are all the necessary heat shields fitted?
I got a Triton 2016. I just replaced the brake master. All Triton owner...watch your brake master. It seems that I have that problem from day 1 and after I hit a BMW at 35kph run it confirm my suspicion that really something wrong with it. This time, my mechanic believed me. It happen to him when he tested it.
So glad they honoured the warranty. Just out of curiosity, what did the block look like? I could imagine, but haven't actually seen one after the repair.
@@MiracleMAX you can see the machine marks in the block face fine but enough to catch your fingernail in it, new one smooth as ,they weren't keen on showing me but i carried on like a pork chop and wouldn't let me take a photo, but as soon as i saw it i was on to MMAL direct I'm a machinist by trade and i knew straight away it was the issue mine was one of the first in Australia to be diagnosed , it was a 6 month ordeal to get them to pull the motor apart i only had 20 000km on it and then i had no car while they sourced a new engine, that took another 4 months they ended up hiring me a car, very stressful, but it's got 255000 km now i would have got rid of it but i was locked into a lease bought the car new (2012)now I'm just running till it dies it's been ok since, your description is spot on the cylinder walls are only a few mm between cylinders the block face cannot have even a scratch to seal correctly
@@martinguybuhler That's a great explanation Martin. I really appreciate you sharing your experience with us. That's great you could look at it through a machinists eyes. I'm so glad you were able to get it sorted in the end. Everyone that has commented has had a similar experience with the stress, but also generally a good outcome. Once again, thanks for sharing. 😊👍
Hey Max, so glad we found this video - thank you. Have you heard of this problem occurred with later models? We have a 2018 Mitsubishi Triton experiencing these exact symptoms
Hey Alison, I'm not sure of the VIN range for the fault, but Mitsubishi seem to be lenient with what is warranty, as long as it displays the same symptoms. Best thing you can do is take it to the dealership and explain that this is a known fault and you would like it diagnosed for warranty.
@@MiracleMAX Thanks so much Max, appreciate it. We have taken the vehicle twice to the dealership. They claim there is nothing wrong. After persisting and also showing them this video, that have since replaced the thermostat and sent us on our way!
@@MiracleMAX the plot thickens Max...turns out they were able to replicate the issue we've been having and now going down the warranty replacement path. Fingers crossed
Hi Max, great video. I have a 2016 Triton mq 2.4 diesel, the coolant expansion tank is always empty even after top up but the vehicle is never overheating, could this be the same issue even though it is not overheating?
I wish i had this video ages ago. Been dealing with this exact same problem from my 2017 triton. have fought and fought Mitsubishi over and over again in regards to the issues and never got anywhere. the warranty ran out just under 12 month ago but i have been having this problem for close to 3 years now if not longer and it's still not fixed. i gave up dealing with them bastards after i spoke to lawyers and all. Have spent thousands and thousands on getting it looked at from Mitsubishi to try and figure out the problem and they just keep blaming me. I always did the right thing got it services on due time and always done by Mitsubishi themselves. NOT HAPPY WITH THEM!!
Sorry to hear you have had so much trouble. Have you spoken to Mitsubishi Australia directly if you are not getting help from the dealership? This is a well known, documented fault. You should not have any issue if they carry out the official test and find that the fault is a warranty issue.
About the stress test involving running the engine at 3000rpm for a while and then backing up the throttle resulting in the head gasket failure. I'm curious as to the mechanism of the gasket failure. I imagine that the heat (and/or pressure) generated during the stress test causes the gasket to deteriorate enough to ( in conjunction with the wrongly surfaced block) allow the combustion pressure to leak into an adjacent water jacket. Any thoughts? Thanks for the video!
Hey Abdul-Kabir Alegbe, I believe that it is the combination of the build up of pressure and a higher temperature at the same time creates a stress point, which normally would not show after a road test, by the time the vehicle comes back into the workshop. Perhaps a higher pressure within the cylinder is created when on decel. I'm not actually sure. Thanks for your comment 😉
Having a similar issue with my 4D56. Late 2015 model & sub 100k on the clock. Found the gauge was going to 3/4 up when i was in traffic. Took my OBD scanner & as i drove, the coolant ran 93-96C but in traffic it went to 114C. Thats when I saw the gauge up to 3/4 up again. Checked the radiator was pretty low & the overflow reservoir was up to the brim. It seemed to blow the coolant in the reservoir but not returning it to the radiator. I took the excess coolant & syphoned it to the radiator & it took about 1.3L till the radiator was full & the coolant was down to MAX on the reservoir. I then changed the thermostat & radiator cap. Seems to be averaging round 93-97C running. I have seen it go to 107C in traffic. So it seems to still run hot but no longer to 3/4. Its winter so im concerned summer is going to be a nightmare. Did a few more tests & i can see some bubbles forming in the coolant when under load. Very minor bubbles but mechanic seems to think the head gasket has failed. Taking it to Mitsubishi but im concerned the supposed correction to the engine block machining pre-dates my engine & its out of warranty. At this time, i just want to fix it & sell it for a new car....butba new cars are a bit of a wait too.
You are doing the right thing taking it in to Mitsubishi. They will carry out the test (yours sounds like a prime candidate) and take it from there. The one shown in the video was out of the VIN range, but they honoured it anyway. If you get no help from the dealer, contact Mitsubishi directly and state your case. Say that this is a well known, documented warranty fault. I have had other viewers even show the dealers this video. Hope it goes well for you. Let us know the outcome.
@MiracleMAX Update. I put it in 5 weeks ago. They initially had it for 2 days & I needed to follow up with them. They finally called me back & confirmed the motor needed replacing. Put in a warranty claim for me. Been calling weekly to get updates. Engine arrived 2 weeks ago. They initially said it should only take 2 days but it's been sitting there since and they said hopefully next week if not the following week. Happy it's being done under warranty but they aren't providing a courtesy car & they're likely not prioritising it. I'm keen to get it soon cause Wife is getting depressed not having a 2nd car and stuck in the house having to WFH most days. I'm sharing the kid pick up & drop off's with my Dad. Think I'll be getting rid of this car. It's just been a pain to deal with.
@@MrSakoTRG Thanks for getting back to us. Yes, I'm sure that the warranty claim is not top priority, but I would be ringing every day to ask about progress. I'm glad that you were able to get the new motor.
@MiracleMAX latest update. I received the car back at 7.5 weeks later. I did contact Mitsubishi Australia last week to find out what they perceive as the normal turnaround for this work & they stated the dealer & service centres are "independently owned and MMAL are limited in dictating or interfering in their day to day". They did follow up but by that stage the service centre already confirmed when they'd get it to me. The only issue is, I asked for warranty & they said there is no warranty on the engine or workmanship as it was all done under "good will" & the official warranty on the car finished 3 yrs ago. They did say bring it back if I have further issues but I'm done with this car. I'm upset as it is otherwise a great car, very capable & drives well but my Wife & I want nothing to do with Mitsubishi. Thanks for all your help in this video & advice in the comments!
@@MrSakoTRG Sorry that you had a bad experience with the dealer. Even though you might had had your fill of this vehicle, many who have had their motors replaced are very happy with the results. What vehicle will you get next??
Hi I'm watching from South Africa. I have a 2013 MN 2.5 High power 131kw when doing long hill climbs the heat gage climbs up a lot or when overtaking trucks etc. I took it to Mitsubishi East London (Eastern Cape - South Africa) they did the stress test but claimed it passed with no issues. I have a TJM outback bull bar on my vehicle and the service advisor said I most likely will not get a warrenty claim as the bull bar affects the airflow on the vehicle. I can bring the vehicle in to to be tested again and if it passes they will do a chemical block test to see from there however there is no certainty to whether they will do the claim. My vehicle has just ticked over to 280 000km do. You have any advise on a way forward?
Hey Shaun, Since they have carried out the stress test, you need to consider other possible faults. Does the coolant get forced out the overflow bottle? Have other causes been eliminated? There is some extra information in the details below the video. Are there any external coolant leaks? Do you have to regularly top up the coolant level? Has the radiator been checked for blockage? Is the thermostat working correctly? Has the temperature gauge been checked against the readings on a scan tool? Is the coolant fan working correctly? Is there any coolant in the oil or oil in the coolant? Are there any fault codes present? As shown in the video, the TK head check (chemical) is not very successful with diesels. Are there any bubbles out of the radiator when running while hot? th-cam.com/video/tctVrj4bF2k/w-d-xo.html Is the system still pressurised when cold? Was the engine running hot before the bullbar was fitted? How long has the bullbar been on the vehicle? Is the radiator cap a 127kpa? Is the coolant a 50/50 mix? Let me know how you go.
Hi MiracleMAX, I believe I have the overheating issue on my Jan2014 Triton. The dealer told me to get rid of the car. He said as I bought the car second hand privately Mitsibishi won’t honour the warranty. I bought it with 145 k on the clock. I’ve added 20k since then. Is the dealer correct? Thanks for your video.
The warranty includes this repair if needed. I don't know of any stipulation stating that you can only buy via a dealer. There have been many listed on the comments below that have successfully had their engines replaced by Mitsubishi. You could always ring Mitsubishi Australia directly for more information.
Hi Max, I have driven 337k with a few overheats over the last 100k km, would you think as a factory issue they may consider replacing motor as it’s out of warranty? I was considering using Chem-I-weld to plug up pin holes- any thoughts? Cheers, Andy
Hey Andy, Firstly, DO NOT use a chem-i-weld type of solution. You will void any chance of warranty. As stated in the video, the best thing you can to is take it to the dealer for proper diagnosis. What have you checked so far? Is it using coolant and blowing it out of the overflow tank?
Hi Max, as I was flushing out the system in preparation for the chem I weld I realised the cap was buggered, I put the only one I could get my hands on for now 110kpa with no glycol and it ran to down the freeway no trouble this morning, I’ll book it in for professional flush and testing and keep my fingers crossed. It has been towing where I’ve overheated in the past, my cap may have been breaking down over time. Thanks again, I’ll keep the chemiweld away from it unless they knock back a warranty if it is diagnosed with this issue. Cheers, Andy
What they are trying to do is covering up instead of correct it properly. If it is out of warranty then it will be a big problem for the second hand owner.
Just as in the case of this vehicle, it was technically 'out of warranty' as well as the VIN was not within the assigned code, however, Mitsubishi is helping out in some areas with this overheating issue - you just have to push and don't take no for an answer to this common fault.
Hi max. I seem to have the same issue on my triton 2014 but taken to my mechanic and he suspects the known fault but now Mitsubishi saying blown head gasket and not the known fault any advice would be appreciated i.e any question or documents i should look at from Mitsubishi test results?
I guess that you should ask what testing have they carried out on the engine. There is a specific stress test that needs to be carried out to prove the fault. It does blow the head gasket, but it is due to the poor surface quality of the block that causes the gasket to give way. th-cam.com/video/tctVrj4bF2k/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/tctVrj4bF2k/w-d-xo.html
I am seeing quite a few comments like this. The testing procedure is very specific and Mitsi will only replace what they have to. Dealerships will vary in helpfulness as well. Just keep in mind that the faulty engine is not the only reason the engine will overheat.
Would you recommend the Mitsubishi triton with the 2.4 litre turbo Diesel engine? Just looking for a 4wd I can go camping in occasionally and depend upon in the future and was looking at the triton. Would appreciate your insight on this. Thanks
Hey ItzHarold814 , Despite some initial concerns about a smaller engine size, some have found this engine to be quite reliable. Of course they require the normal maintenance for CRD engines - cleaning of the intake system of carbon. Installing a catch can will help that situation. These use a shim style valve clearance and need to be adjusted regularly. These did have some issues with towbars and some 6 speed manual transmissions. I hope that helps 😁👍
@@MiracleMAX Thank you very much. Would you recommend buying one? I plan on getting a catch can installed if I were to get a triton. I suppose my main concern with the triton is the chassis cracking. I’m not sure if this is much of an issue compared to the previous model triton, but it’s just one of those things I would constantly be worried about. If I didn’t exceed the vehicles GVM would this been an issue? For me this vehicle would be an everyday driver which I would only take off roading a few times a year at best. It wouldn’t be setup to be a touring vehicle if that makes sense. Perhaps just a bullbar, under body protection, dual battery setup, etc. Thanks
@@hmatt33 Honestly, 4WDing is not my strong suit. I believe the chassis issue would be for those who are true 4wd people that put their vehicle through there paces, not use for off-roading and camping. Sorry, I can only go on the reviews of others.
The MQ and MR have strengthened chassis compared to earlier models and revised length leaf springs. The MQ and MR can have cold side intercooler hoses cracking but a number of manufacturers have this issue. Very easy and cheap fix with a good quality replacement that takes 10 mins to fit. The 2.4 is am excellent motor new from the ground up over the 2.5. As the mechanic notes they require valve adjustments. These must be done to spec. If not using a new injector washer and overtightening the injectors this can cause major issues. The 2.4 runs a timing chain and not a belt. The MQ and MR are at the top of the tree for overall reliability compared to other recent 4x4 utes - and the best stock offroad - see 4x4 24x7 video tests. Cheers
Exact thing happened to mine. Bought it second hand 🤦🏻♀️ My mechanic told me to see Mitsubishi and they’ve been honouring them whether or not they’re secondhand. Booked in on the 26th of June, so fingers crossed. Otherwise I’m selling it. 😪 Sucks though, because it’s a nice car apart from this BS.
@@Jake-rz9ki they couldn’t find any fault with it even though it kept overheating when I’d take it on long drives.. So instead of throwing good money after bad I sold it and bought a brand new one
That's up to Mitsubishi. If it fails due to the common overheating fault, I have found them to be quite helpful trying to remedy the issue. The later models do not have the 4D56 engines & did not have the same problems.
Coolant has a specific mix that should be used. If exceeded no value is gained. In fact, pure antifreeze lacks sufficient heat capacity to keep the engine cool and the heat-transfer capabilities are lowered by 35%, which could cause engine damage. What we are looking at with the Tritons, is a manufacturing design fault.
I have a 2013 mn and I only have 145,000 on it and it’s displaying the same same systems, it has only just started in the last few weeks. So I might as well go and get it checked
Yes, if you have those symptoms, the best thing is to get it diagnosed by the dealer & let them know that this is a common, documented fault. Hope it works out well for you. Let us know how you go
I have worked on quite a few of these. Apart from maintenance items due to age (injectors, egr, turbo, etc at high kilometres), my customers have found these to be quite reliable. That being said, the obvious overheating issues happened in some of the models. I have included links etc to helpful sites in the video description
Hi Max I have a 2015 mq triton with these symptoms I has about 215xxx kms on the clock I bought it 2nd hand with 150xxx kms it has been doing it the whole time i have owned it. do you think it would be same issue and do you think it would still be in warranty or mitsubishi would fix it?I was thinking it was just the radiator not being able to keep up then I googled it and found your video now I'm curious
Hey Jake, The MQ 2.4 did not suffer from the same problems as the MN 2.5. What testing have you done so far? Is the cap holding pressure OK? Is the thermostat operating at correct temperatures? Is the coolant ratio correct? Has the radiator been tested for blockages? Are there any fault codes? Is the engine running correctly?
I'm having to top up coolant nearly every tank of fuel. I have taken it to radiator specialists and they say everything is working fine. They all replace the radiator cap and say try this this should help. They have done pressure tests and the liquid test like you have done and they have passed them. When I drive at 100km/h towing I might pull over and turn vehicle off then can hear the radiator bubbling into the overflow if I go on a longer trip the temp gauge will go up 1 or 2 bars if I'm not careful if I sit on 110km/h and am towing up long hills temp goes up very quickly I'm only towing about 800kg
I had a brand new radiator put in about 20000km ago done the same thing the next day the put a new radiator cap on and a new cap for the over flow and that was it still doing it
@@Jake-rz9ki Losing coolant is not OK. Is it only when you drive distances that it overheats? Has a proper radiator flow test been done? Has the EGR cooler been tested? Are there any fault codes stored? Is the viscous fan working correctly? Does it blow smoke out the exhaust when overheating?
Here is an example of where to get information for any fluids on your vehicle. www.datateck.com.au/lube/castr_au/ If you want to use other products, just include the name 'Penrite' for example before datateck & that should bring up the information you need.
@@oshinzmarshallbrown2766 This is a common fault, so if you push the dealership to do the testing procedure, they will validate the warranty.....here at least
The owner was kind enough to keep in the loop all the way, so that I could try and help with the process. He seems a lot happier with his Triton now! 😉😁
The fact that Mitsubishi would allow such sloppy work says a lot for their quality 😖.. I'll stick to Toyota's, my 75 series Landcruiser has almost 700,000 on it and it still runs perfectly
That is a fair comment Mark. Mitsubishi have a good reputation for some time, but yes, they dropped the ball with this batch of Tritons. Fair comment on the Toyotas. They are the biggest selling car company in the world & do have a reliable reputation.
@@joansparky4439 The best thing is to contact the dealer - they have all the VINs within the range. But they may also offer warranty if it is not within the VIN range, which was in this case.
@@joansparky4439 It's best to contact the dealer as they have the list of VINs. Some information on dates, etc is listed in the videos description. The engine in this case was out of the VIN list, however they still covered the warranty.
It’s about time Mitshubish go over and beyond! I have moved around 5 times in the last 30yrs!Every mechanic I had, have always advised me to stay clear from buying Mitsubishi apparently due to problematics like this
My engine failed the test they rejected it because they not happy with service history my argument is its a factory defect and they should make good of it
You could ring Mitsubishi Australia and put your case forward. I had a customer do that and they got another motor. But they do have the right to reject it if the service history has not been kept up to date.
The diagnosis test should only be around$176. Some dealers want to remove the block and see what is causing it and this charge would usually be between $1200,$1700. I would recommend you asking the dealer to just send the report for the stress test Mitsubishi Australia and see what they come back with
I have a 2010 triton at 83klm replaced the long block under warrannty. Another 87klm later I ha e the same problem. Obviosly they replaced it with the same problem. No more warranty! Now its going to cost me big $$8k. Mitsubishi is crap
@@MiracleMAX yes I tried a few times talking to the dealership were I brought the triton and have been servicing it for the past 12 years. They said Ive got no chancee of getting a long block replacement again after the 1st block . They won't replace the 2nd block even though it has the same manufacturing fault after another 87klm it happened again on the new 2nd block they would only give me 3 month warranty. I dont know what to do. They said Ive got no chance of getting it replaced. Regards Peter
@@peterpanpoly1217 I have read of others that have had their blocks replaced a second time. Best to contact, not the dealer, but Mitsubishi directly & kick up a stink!
@@peterpanpoly1217 Did you have any luck with contacting them directy? I just got the comfimation that my MN failed the test and that there applying for a new long block. Not sure how this is gonna play out as its a 2014 model.
Hell Max. I am having very odd but similar complications with my 2015 MN triton. Long story short, it was over heating last Thursday night, on the highway w/ no load, 25 minutes of driving with cruise control on. after a local mechanic visit this Tuesday. Relevant tests were conducted showing no faults. Mechanic said it could be a thermostat on its way out. oil is fine and topped up, coolant is fine and topped up - no signs of bubbles, no leaks on the garage floor, no visible damage to anything. My triton has a 4D56UCFS7360 engine. The coolant is 50/30, the radiator cap is 127kPa, and when I bought it privately, the ex owner said the engine was remapped/modded/chipped what ever you want to call it. I am baffled with the knowledge I have based off my research, but what is worst my mechanic is just as confused. Any suggestions ?🫠
Probably should of watched the whole video before I commented… I have my ute booked into the local Mitsubishi dealership. Silly question, but would it be a good idea I tell them I know about the campaign 020116, and get them to do necessary fault finding checks anyway and go from there?
Hey Awilly, These engines are a bit tricky to diagnose, so it is best to take your vehicle to the local dealership so that they can carry out the necessary diagnosis.
Hey Awilly, Yes you can mention the possible warranty. As mentioned in the video, they will reimburse the cost of the diagnosis if it becomes a warranty claim. Let us know how you go 😉
Thanks to watching your Video I had coolant coming out of the overflow for about 12months and could not work out why? Finally overheated a couple of times took it to my mechanic and he said he could not find any issues. After overheated a few more time I took it to mitsubishi dealership and after a bit of back and forth they finally approved my new long engine replacement! Took 7weeks to get the result but very happy! Thanks Max for making this miracle possible 🙏
Glad the video helped and you were able to get a new engine! Thanks for your subscription 😉
Hey Max
My 2014 MN GLXR has been overheating for months and myself and my mechanic are pulling our hair out trying to figure what’s going on. But after watching your video I took it to my local dealer and 2 days after booking it in for a diagnostic and stress test I just got word today they are doing a long motor replacement! Max you are a LEGEND! Thank you for this video
So glad that the video helped! Yup, this overheating issue can be a bit tricky, but it's great that Mitsubishi is honouring their warranty.
Had my 2013 MN spit a gasket and seen this video. Took my car into the local Mitsubishi and did the tests etc. Got my car back yesterday. Brand new engine out of warranty. My car had 250,000km when I took it in. Stoked!
Well done. I hope this video has helped yourself and others get warranty on their engines.
Hey Mate think mine has done it now but is 1 2014 model and 160,000. Did you have any pushback from Mitsubishi saying they were not going to be replaced? Also, any modification on your triton or fully stock as I heard they will use any excuse not to swap out a bad motor. Cheers
Mark5fish can you please let me know if you ended up taking it to a dealer and getting it sorted
@@Mark5Fish Hey mate,
Nah was fully stock.
Didn't have any issues with Mitsubishi. I took it in and a week later the dealer rang me and said Mitsubishi Australia approved it.
Was pretty easy process honestly
@@alekstosesk134hello finally got it in and they said it was my head gasket was blown which I don't believe. So might be a fight for me.
Hi MM, thanks to you video, I have just had my MN 2014 Triton's engine replaced by Mitsubishi due to overheating / over pressurised cooling system. It was process over 16 months after i started to investigate and go down the path with Mitsubishi and spent over $1800 of my own money, the new long engine is in and i'm hoping that is the end of the saga.
Love watching your videos, very informative. Keep them coming.
Good to hear you had a positive outcome Chris. I have a lot of Triton videos on the channel, so feel free to have a look around. I will be putting out other Triton videos in the future, so don't forget to subscribe 😉
Hi mate, the long motors come with new injectors already installed. That's why you get new pipes, old pump is used and long motor comes with a timing belt just not fitted so the dealership has todo the timing and valve clearances also
Enjoy your content! Keep it up!
Thanks richard Duggan for clearing that up - I appreciate the comment. 😉👍
Great video,when I'm diagnosing overheating problems most times I remove the water pump belt and run the engine just to verify that there is compression in the cooling system
Thanks for the tip. 👍
Hi Max we had the long motor replaced. 2010 pb with 295000 kms under warranty. Motorama at Springwood were amazing!! About 18 months ago. Actually a really nice car to drive!!
Well done! Mitsubishi has done the right thing following through with the warranty.
Hey Mate, great news! I am about to start this journey. My 2014 MN GLX has overheated 3 time in the past 3 months. After my mechanic replaced the thermostat its still spewing out of the reservoir and overheating. I have booked it in with Motorama for it to be diagnosed. Are you able to give me any advice or guidance or how it might play out? And @MiracleMax thank you again for uploading this video me and my mechanic are grateful
@QueenStreetCowboy firstly i prayed and asked God to help. Then i very politely made it known what i thought the cause was aka very well known issue and they tested it. Took them a few days to test it to prove the failure. Then sent away a request which got approved for a replacement. All up took about a month or so to be sorted.
@@jamesm2099 well I did the same and prayed too hhah. But like you I was polite and let them do their testing. After 2 days since they did the test I got told today they are replacing the motor. Thanks again for your feedback
This is an old story now, but I have a 2013 Mitsubishi Challenger that runs the 2.5 Diesel which I have owned from new. I had the engine fail, and then replaced at 38.5k kilometres. The second motor failed after it has done 150k kilometres (190k kilometres on the clock). Did a reconditioned motor exchange. It has started presenting the same symptoms after 9 days of driving. I have heard the Mitsubishi story about the fault with metal occlusions in the head causing failure, and now the one about the bad machining of the blocks. I have come to suspect it is just a badly designed engine with some kind of fundamental floor. I understand the 2.4 litre diesel is a slightly modified version of the 2.5, and I suspect it was simply created to address whatever is fundamentally wrong with the 2.5 litre motor. I don't trust the 2.4 litre engine either, as I have started hearing gossip that it is presenting overheat issues as well. Since I am on my fourth round of this issue I would note that the overheat has typically occurred during long runs (200 to 500km trips in a day - which I do fairly regularly) and also the failures have always occurred as pairs. First failure I get the car back from a 'shop' with advice 'there is nothing wrong', second failure about two to four weeks later that is 'terminal'. Also three out of four failures have with a pattern of a) Drive car for 2 to 4 hours. b) Stop for a break of approx 45 minutes. c) Drive for 20 to 40 minutes and get an overheat event. Bottom line is I don't trust these engines at all, as nothing has changed in the pattern of failure for three different engines in the same vehicle. Oh - and as an after note, I rarely tow anything.
I can only begin to imagine your frustration Justin!
The earlier 4D56 had no overheating issues
Have you taken your engine into a dealership to be assessed? It could still be classified as a warranty. Worth a try at least.
Hi Max,
Just wanted to say a massive thank you for your video on this. The details you highlight that this vehicle had was exactly what my 2013 MN had. The short story is, I was driving up the Sunshine Coast towing my (just) under 750kg camper in 4th gear most of the way (averaging 2800rpm), 1.5km off the highway, the temperature increased just below red and engine light came on, IT WAS BLOODY QUICK! Sitting on the side of the road, I watched this video and thought "Yep, this guy is all over the issue". Got it booked into a Mitsubishi in Brisbane and within two days, I had an approved long block from Mitsubishi and they even replaced the clutch at a reduced rate, as they already had the motor out. Pretty good feeling that Mitsi come through for this stuff and I am thoroughly impressed.
I do want to ask though, would you recommend getting a fuel filter and catch can fitted with this brand new 4D56? I understand dealerships do not like you doing it. But I cannot for the life of me figure out why?
Mate, thanks so much again. I recommend your channel to everyone now.
That's great news Scott! I have found that Mitsubishi has been reasonable with this issue. It's a shame that this has happened and turned into such a problem. Obviously if they don't have to pay for the repair that is understandable, but when the time comes, I have found that Mitsi has been pretty good. Sometimes the dealerships have created problems, but not necessarily Mitsi themselves,
I have fitted quality catch cans to several Tritons with no issues. I always get the specific fit ones as they are easier to fit and looks heaps more professional. A local earthmoving company where I teach the apprentices, always fit a secondary fuel filter as a matter of course. They are internal vehicles just for the company, but never have had an issue.
Hi Scott, may I know which Mitsubishi dealer in Brisbane that you went to that have your engine replaced? Thanks
Hi MiracleMAX, Sorry for the late update. I got my MN Triton back a few weeks ago. After most of cooling system components get replaced. There is new thermostat, new coolant, new water pump and new timing belt etc. The car is no longer overheating for the first a few days after I got it back. However, the needle of the coolant temp gauge started moving up later when I was driving. It didn't reach the red line but it moved to 3.5/5 and 4/5. I was thinking "holy crap" and why is it still overheating if it passed the stress test and all the components have been replaced.
And when I was throwing my anger at MMAL by posting in the newtriton forum, one of the bloke there he suggested me to drive the car with an ODB2 reader because the gauge may not be accurate. And I did accordingly in the following trips. I found the CTS data from the ODB2 reader is always between 84c-90c which is safe. But the gauge needle do move a little when the temp goes up even the temp is still within the safe range. After proving that although the gauge is flutuating but the car is actually not overheating many times, I thought the overheating problem is solved.
Yestoday, when I was trying to figure out why my MN triton's trailer break is not working properly. I found the main "earth" connection from the battery's negative terminal to the car body chasis is not connected at all. I think when somebody replace the battery they left the connection undone because the cable is a little short for the bolt to connect. So the car's negative terminal is not connected to the frame. Actually I have noticed this long time ago but I thought this may not affect the car's operation. So I found a long bolt and bolt the connection on so the negative terminal of the battery is connected to the frame. Guess what. After I did that the temperature gauge never moves once it reach the middle. Interesting! I will drive more with the car to confirm that and try to figure out why my trailer break lights not working.
That's great news & a great idea to look at live data while driving. Electrical components can do crazy things when there is a poor earth or no earth at all. I hope that has sorted all your overheating issues.
Thanks again for sharing your updates.
Hey, thanks for this informative video.
I’m facing very similar issues on my 2nd hand 2014 MN Triton. My mechanic suspects head gasket but feel like it’s the engine issue.
Mitsubishi are quoting me $750 just for the diagnostic, only issue is the car has modifications such as bull bar, lights, canopy etc. and the servicing has been done at other car mechanics and not Mitsubishi. I’m concerned they will push back and say the overheating is due to poor airflow, which I really don’t think it.
Any advice? Did this Mitsubishi have full dealership servicing history / any modifications?
Unfortunately, this is Mitsubishi's process, which is fair enough. Yes it must have the service history and depending on who you take it to as to what they will question. Sounds pretty steep for the diagnostic cost
Great video. What are my options if mine is 11 years old. I've owned it for 9 and have replaced the head twice.
Have you taken it to the dealer to ask for a possible warranty claim?
th-cam.com/video/tctVrj4bF2k/w-d-xo.html
Im leaving a comment because this guy comments to his replies . Good guy
Thanks! I try to respond to each comment that is made. Hopefully you got some use out of the video 😉
@@MiracleMAX Currently driving a 2010 L200 in the Scottish Highlands.... This video is similar to watching plane crashes the day before you fly 🤣. Makes me nervous.
Thank you for the information in the video 👍
@@trigtrigger9794 Don't panic my Scottish friend! I have seen plenty of Triton/L200s last a long time when serviced correctly & regularly. There was only a certain amount of failed ones...... hopefully not yours though! 😊 Check out other Triton videos on the channel.
Thanks for your comment.
Here at the moment in Oz it feels like a Scottish summer......lots of rain & flooding 😂
@@MiracleMAX You will still be warmer than us 😁. We are approaching summer and having fresh snow on the mountains! 2.C ground level.
Ironically I am sitting at work with 3 bearded dragons from your way.. 09:20 am here.
I need to find out which models had over heating issues, I will have a look around on your channel. EGR is deleted but need to do catch can ..
2.5 4D56 turbo Diesel engine has a common over heating issue due to manufacturing defect. Mitsubishi didn’t recall all the triton and check and replace the engine block with the issue. What they did is a campaign to “cover it up” and delay the showing of the problem. I bought a 2nd hand mn triton(10yr old). And unluckily after 4 month the engine start over heating. I have an old 2005 triton Ute with 4g64 engine. Bought it at 10 year old with 150k on the clock. Now it is about 320k and 17 years old. It never missed a beat and other than normal wear and tear the engine is so reliable and that is why I trusted Mitsubishi and bought the mn triton. But it seems to me, Mitsubishi was doing the same thing as what takata air bag did by covering up the issue instead of correcting them properly. So if you are thinking of buying a second hand triton with 4d56 engine, be careful.
Hey bo zhang ,
If you scroll down in the details of the video, there is some information relating to the overheating issue.
@@MiracleMAX Thank you very much for your reply. because when I bought the car from the dealer, it comes with a warranty from iwarranty. And if I want to make a claim then I will have to use their mechanics. I went to the mechanic and they told me that the viscous fan cluth is faulty and it needs to be replaced 1st. And if after replacing the fan cluth if it is still overheating. they need to send the radiator away and get it tested for blockage. I am still waiting for the warranty claim to be processed and hoping this will fix the problem. Finger crossed.
@@aaronbozhang I hope it works out well for you. Thanks for keeping us informed 😊
@@MiracleMAX Got the Car back 2 days ago and the car is still over heating intermittently after the engine reachs the optimum temperature. It seems to me that the temp gauge raises soon after the engine runs for a while. and then when it is idling. The temp will drop slowly. The mech recommended by the insurance company said he tested it a few km and let the car idled for half an hour and no issue. And he is blaming the used part approved by the insurance company.
@@aaronbozhang Pass the blame........what's your next step?
Is it losing coolant? Is there excessive coolant in the overflow bottle? No oil in the coolant and vice versa? Can you check your temp gauge accuracy with a scan tool? Did they do the fan as well as clean the radiator? Was a thermostat done?
Yes the MN Triton's are a worry. I have one (2015) & the engine has just started getting hot but the coolant, thermostat & water-pump are fine & it has decent oil pressure too.
I was thinking (praying) that it maybe a restricted exhaust system as everything else checks out fine.
But the heat expansion & cooling contraction noises coming from this motor are so loud that they send shivers up my spine. And you can even hear the expansion noises while you are driving it, & in this Brisbane heat somethings got to give sooner or later.
So have you done the testing procedure to see if it is a blown head gasket? Or maybe the EGR cooler? Does the overflow tank get pressurised? Any smoke on start up? Coolant loss? Have you had the radiator checked for blockage? Does the temp reading go excessively high?
@@MiracleMAX
Thanks MAX,
All the above tests have been done and it seems fine.
The temp always stays between 82 deg C & 84 deg C. The only part that seems to get abnormally hot is the vacuum pump. All checks including SCV fuel mixture & timing are fine too.
No smoke on start or while driving, no coolant loss.
The thermostat, full exhaust system & Viscous fan have been replaced.
But it still makes super loud Horrendous cracking thermal noises while driving but it mainly does it while sitting after shut down. Actually when I'm driving it is so violent that I can feel the noise resonate through the pedals and the steering wheel. It also does it with heat-shields removed.
I have tightened all exhaust manifold bolts as well and there are no cracks in it.
The only other thing I can think of now is that maybe the engine oil cooler is blocked or restricted.
So far this problem has got everyone beat, but I can tell that something has got to give sooner or later.
@@robertboyd321 It'll be interesting to see what the actual fault is. Let us know what you find. How many Kms has the engine done? Is the turbo desired and actual boost in live data the same? You said that it is overheating, but 'the temp always stays between 82 deg C & 84 deg C.' What temperature are you referring to?
Are you sure the noise is engine related? Can you hear the noise free revving - just in the workshop bay?
@@MiracleMAX It has done only 76.000K, Has a manual boost valve (Tillix) fitted and it boosts 19 PSI maximum, & there is no longer any lag which has been great. But I have tried it with the Factory Boost controller which doesn't stop the heat & noise. The heat I am trying to describe is the actual engine & accessories. I know they run hot but after a short drive if you spit or drop water on the vacuum pump the liquid sizzles & turns to steam, it will burn your skin too & you cannot touch the throttle body either because it is almost as hot. Now in my opinion that is way too hot. I will fit a new engine oil cooler this weekend & back flush the oil & water feed tubes and see if that sorts it out. A friend said that maybe a water jacket is blocked or maybe it has an air bubble caught in the front of the head, but I think the cooling Temp would rise if that was the case. I know that they are difficult to expel all the air out of the cooling system but I don't think that is the cause.. I will let U know if I either get it sorted or throw a match in it..
@@robertboyd321 You are right, if there was an air pocket of something similar, the coolant temp would rise. Hopefully you can sort the issue. Are all the necessary heat shields fitted?
I got a Triton 2016. I just replaced the brake master. All Triton owner...watch your brake master. It seems that I have that problem from day 1 and after I hit a BMW at 35kph run it confirm my suspicion that really something wrong with it. This time, my mechanic believed me. It happen to him when he tested it.
Thanks for your comment
Good one Mitsubishi. Thanks Max
Yup, not their finest hour
prefect explanation, i got a new motor and my car was new 20k on it they let me see the block surface you are 100% great vid
So glad they honoured the warranty. Just out of curiosity, what did the block look like? I could imagine, but haven't actually seen one after the repair.
@@MiracleMAX you can see the machine marks in the block face fine but enough to catch your fingernail in it, new one smooth as ,they weren't keen on showing me but i carried on like a pork chop and wouldn't let me take a photo, but as soon as i saw it i was on to MMAL direct I'm a machinist by trade and i knew straight away it was the issue mine was one of the first in Australia to be diagnosed , it was a 6 month ordeal to get them to pull the motor apart i only had 20 000km on it and then i had no car while they sourced a new engine, that took another 4 months they ended up hiring me a car, very stressful, but it's got 255000 km now i would have got rid of it but i was locked into a lease bought the car new (2012)now I'm just running till it dies it's been ok since, your description is spot on the cylinder walls are only a few mm between cylinders the block face cannot have even a scratch to seal correctly
@@martinguybuhler That's a great explanation Martin. I really appreciate you sharing your experience with us. That's great you could look at it through a machinists eyes. I'm so glad you were able to get it sorted in the end. Everyone that has commented has had a similar experience with the stress, but also generally a good outcome.
Once again, thanks for sharing. 😊👍
Nice info mate, could save a customer a major bill 👍💪
I hate to think how much this warranty claim has cost Mitsubishi!
Hey Max, so glad we found this video - thank you. Have you heard of this problem occurred with later models? We have a 2018 Mitsubishi Triton experiencing these exact symptoms
Hey Alison,
I'm not sure of the VIN range for the fault, but Mitsubishi seem to be lenient with what is warranty, as long as it displays the same symptoms. Best thing you can do is take it to the dealership and explain that this is a known fault and you would like it diagnosed for warranty.
@@MiracleMAX Thanks so much Max, appreciate it. We have taken the vehicle twice to the dealership. They claim there is nothing wrong. After persisting and also showing them this video, that have since replaced the thermostat and sent us on our way!
@@alisonfeuerstein8927 Well at least they are aware of the fault and have now ruled out the thermostat. Hopefully that's all the problem was. 😉
@@MiracleMAX the plot thickens Max...turns out they were able to replicate the issue we've been having and now going down the warranty replacement path. Fingers crossed
@@alisonfeuerstein8927 Ah, so not just a thermostat, eh?
Keep us informed! Hope it works out for you. Glad the video was of some use. 😉😁
Hi Max, great video. I have a 2016 Triton mq 2.4 diesel, the coolant expansion tank is always empty even after top up but the vehicle is never overheating, could this be the same issue even though it is not overheating?
Has it been pressure tested?
I wish i had this video ages ago. Been dealing with this exact same problem from my 2017 triton. have fought and fought Mitsubishi over and over again in regards to the issues and never got anywhere. the warranty ran out just under 12 month ago but i have been having this problem for close to 3 years now if not longer and it's still not fixed. i gave up dealing with them bastards after i spoke to lawyers and all.
Have spent thousands and thousands on getting it looked at from Mitsubishi to try and figure out the problem and they just keep blaming me. I always did the right thing got it services on due time and always done by Mitsubishi themselves. NOT HAPPY WITH THEM!!
Sorry to hear you have had so much trouble. Have you spoken to Mitsubishi Australia directly if you are not getting help from the dealership? This is a well known, documented fault. You should not have any issue if they carry out the official test and find that the fault is a warranty issue.
About the stress test involving running the engine at 3000rpm for a while and then backing up the throttle resulting in the head gasket failure. I'm curious as to the mechanism of the gasket failure. I imagine that the heat (and/or pressure) generated during the stress test causes the gasket to deteriorate enough to ( in conjunction with the wrongly surfaced block) allow the combustion pressure to leak into an adjacent water jacket. Any thoughts?
Thanks for the video!
Hey Abdul-Kabir Alegbe,
I believe that it is the combination of the build up of pressure and a higher temperature at the same time creates a stress point, which normally would not show after a road test, by the time the vehicle comes back into the workshop. Perhaps a higher pressure within the cylinder is created when on decel. I'm not actually sure.
Thanks for your comment 😉
i have the same problem with my L200 4D56, my question is would the replacing of the head gasket solve the issue?
No, as mentioned in the video, the issue is with with the machining of the block, not the head.
th-cam.com/video/tctVrj4bF2k/w-d-xo.html
Having a similar issue with my 4D56. Late 2015 model & sub 100k on the clock. Found the gauge was going to 3/4 up when i was in traffic. Took my OBD scanner & as i drove, the coolant ran 93-96C but in traffic it went to 114C. Thats when I saw the gauge up to 3/4 up again.
Checked the radiator was pretty low & the overflow reservoir was up to the brim. It seemed to blow the coolant in the reservoir but not returning it to the radiator. I took the excess coolant & syphoned it to the radiator & it took about 1.3L till the radiator was full & the coolant was down to MAX on the reservoir. I then changed the thermostat & radiator cap.
Seems to be averaging round 93-97C running. I have seen it go to 107C in traffic. So it seems to still run hot but no longer to 3/4. Its winter so im concerned summer is going to be a nightmare. Did a few more tests & i can see some bubbles forming in the coolant when under load. Very minor bubbles but mechanic seems to think the head gasket has failed.
Taking it to Mitsubishi but im concerned the supposed correction to the engine block machining pre-dates my engine & its out of warranty.
At this time, i just want to fix it & sell it for a new car....butba new cars are a bit of a wait too.
You are doing the right thing taking it in to Mitsubishi. They will carry out the test (yours sounds like a prime candidate) and take it from there. The one shown in the video was out of the VIN range, but they honoured it anyway. If you get no help from the dealer, contact Mitsubishi directly and state your case. Say that this is a well known, documented warranty fault. I have had other viewers even show the dealers this video.
Hope it goes well for you.
Let us know the outcome.
@MiracleMAX Update. I put it in 5 weeks ago. They initially had it for 2 days & I needed to follow up with them. They finally called me back & confirmed the motor needed replacing. Put in a warranty claim for me. Been calling weekly to get updates. Engine arrived 2 weeks ago. They initially said it should only take 2 days but it's been sitting there since and they said hopefully next week if not the following week. Happy it's being done under warranty but they aren't providing a courtesy car & they're likely not prioritising it. I'm keen to get it soon cause Wife is getting depressed not having a 2nd car and stuck in the house having to WFH most days. I'm sharing the kid pick up & drop off's with my Dad. Think I'll be getting rid of this car. It's just been a pain to deal with.
@@MrSakoTRG Thanks for getting back to us. Yes, I'm sure that the warranty claim is not top priority, but I would be ringing every day to ask about progress. I'm glad that you were able to get the new motor.
@MiracleMAX latest update. I received the car back at 7.5 weeks later. I did contact Mitsubishi Australia last week to find out what they perceive as the normal turnaround for this work & they stated the dealer & service centres are "independently owned and MMAL are limited in dictating or interfering in their day to day". They did follow up but by that stage the service centre already confirmed when they'd get it to me.
The only issue is, I asked for warranty & they said there is no warranty on the engine or workmanship as it was all done under "good will" & the official warranty on the car finished 3 yrs ago. They did say bring it back if I have further issues but I'm done with this car. I'm upset as it is otherwise a great car, very capable & drives well but my Wife & I want nothing to do with Mitsubishi. Thanks for all your help in this video & advice in the comments!
@@MrSakoTRG Sorry that you had a bad experience with the dealer. Even though you might had had your fill of this vehicle, many who have had their motors replaced are very happy with the results.
What vehicle will you get next??
Hi I'm watching from South Africa. I have a 2013 MN 2.5 High power 131kw when doing long hill climbs the heat gage climbs up a lot or when overtaking trucks etc. I took it to Mitsubishi East London (Eastern Cape - South Africa) they did the stress test but claimed it passed with no issues. I have a TJM outback bull bar on my vehicle and the service advisor said I most likely will not get a warrenty claim as the bull bar affects the airflow on the vehicle. I can bring the vehicle in to to be tested again and if it passes they will do a chemical block test to see from there however there is no certainty to whether they will do the claim.
My vehicle has just ticked over to 280 000km do. You have any advise on a way forward?
Hey Shaun,
Since they have carried out the stress test, you need to consider other possible faults.
Does the coolant get forced out the overflow bottle? Have other causes been eliminated? There is some extra information in the details below the video. Are there any external coolant leaks? Do you have to regularly top up the coolant level? Has the radiator been checked for blockage? Is the thermostat working correctly? Has the temperature gauge been checked against the readings on a scan tool? Is the coolant fan working correctly? Is there any coolant in the oil or oil in the coolant? Are there any fault codes present? As shown in the video, the TK head check (chemical) is not very successful with diesels. Are there any bubbles out of the radiator when running while hot? th-cam.com/video/tctVrj4bF2k/w-d-xo.html
Is the system still pressurised when cold?
Was the engine running hot before the bullbar was fitted? How long has the bullbar been on the vehicle? Is the radiator cap a 127kpa? Is the coolant a 50/50 mix?
Let me know how you go.
Hi MiracleMAX, I believe I have the overheating issue on my Jan2014 Triton. The dealer told me to get rid of the car. He said as I bought the car second hand privately Mitsibishi won’t honour the warranty. I bought it with 145 k on the clock. I’ve added 20k since then. Is the dealer correct? Thanks for your video.
The warranty includes this repair if needed. I don't know of any stipulation stating that you can only buy via a dealer. There have been many listed on the comments below that have successfully had their engines replaced by Mitsubishi. You could always ring Mitsubishi Australia directly for more information.
I appreciate that. Thankyou.
Hi Max, I have driven 337k with a few overheats over the last 100k km, would you think as a factory issue they may consider replacing motor as it’s out of warranty?
I was considering using Chem-I-weld to plug up pin holes- any thoughts?
Cheers, Andy
Hey Andy,
Firstly, DO NOT use a chem-i-weld type of solution. You will void any chance of warranty. As stated in the video, the best thing you can to is take it to the dealer for proper diagnosis. What have you checked so far? Is it using coolant and blowing it out of the overflow tank?
Hi Max, as I was flushing out the system in preparation for the chem I weld I realised the cap was buggered, I put the only one I could get my hands on for now 110kpa with no glycol and it ran to down the freeway no trouble this morning, I’ll book it in for professional flush and testing and keep my fingers crossed. It has been towing where I’ve overheated in the past, my cap may have been breaking down over time.
Thanks again, I’ll keep the chemiweld away from it unless they knock back a warranty if it is diagnosed with this issue.
Cheers, Andy
@@AndrewDuncan-h1y OK. Let us know how you go.
What they are trying to do is covering up instead of correct it properly. If it is out of warranty then it will be a big problem for the second hand owner.
Just as in the case of this vehicle, it was technically 'out of warranty' as well as the VIN was not within the assigned code, however, Mitsubishi is helping out in some areas with this overheating issue - you just have to push and don't take no for an answer to this common fault.
Hi max. I seem to have the same issue on my triton 2014 but taken to my mechanic and he suspects the known fault but now Mitsubishi saying blown head gasket and not the known fault any advice would be appreciated i.e any question or documents i should look at from Mitsubishi test results?
I guess that you should ask what testing have they carried out on the engine. There is a specific stress test that needs to be carried out to prove the fault. It does blow the head gasket, but it is due to the poor surface quality of the block that causes the gasket to give way.
th-cam.com/video/tctVrj4bF2k/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/tctVrj4bF2k/w-d-xo.html
@@MiracleMAX thanks max. I'll keep you posted.
My 2016 mq 4n15 does the exact same thing had to test etc done came back negative unfortunately I don't think Mitsubishi will cover it
I am seeing quite a few comments like this. The testing procedure is very specific and Mitsi will only replace what they have to. Dealerships will vary in helpfulness as well.
Just keep in mind that the faulty engine is not the only reason the engine will overheat.
Would you recommend the Mitsubishi triton with the 2.4 litre turbo Diesel engine? Just looking for a 4wd I can go camping in occasionally and depend upon in the future and was looking at the triton. Would appreciate your insight on this. Thanks
Hey ItzHarold814 ,
Despite some initial concerns about a smaller engine size, some have found this engine to be quite reliable. Of course they require the normal maintenance for CRD engines - cleaning of the intake system of carbon. Installing a catch can will help that situation. These use a shim style valve clearance and need to be adjusted regularly.
These did have some issues with towbars and some 6 speed manual transmissions.
I hope that helps 😁👍
@@MiracleMAX Thank you very much. Would you recommend buying one? I plan on getting a catch can installed if I were to get a triton. I suppose my main concern with the triton is the chassis cracking. I’m not sure if this is much of an issue compared to the previous model triton, but it’s just one of those things I would constantly be worried about. If I didn’t exceed the vehicles GVM would this been an issue? For me this vehicle would be an everyday driver which I would only take off roading a few times a year at best. It wouldn’t be setup to be a touring vehicle if that makes sense. Perhaps just a bullbar, under body protection, dual battery setup, etc. Thanks
@@hmatt33 Honestly, 4WDing is not my strong suit. I believe the chassis issue would be for those who are true 4wd people that put their vehicle through there paces, not use for off-roading and camping.
Sorry, I can only go on the reviews of others.
The MQ and MR have strengthened chassis compared to earlier models and revised length leaf springs. The MQ and MR can have cold side intercooler hoses cracking but a number of manufacturers have this issue. Very easy and cheap fix with a good quality replacement that takes 10 mins to fit. The 2.4 is am excellent motor new from the ground up over the 2.5. As the mechanic notes they require valve adjustments. These must be done to spec. If not using a new injector washer and overtightening the injectors this can cause major issues. The 2.4 runs a timing chain and not a belt. The MQ and MR are at the top of the tree for overall reliability compared to other recent 4x4 utes - and the best stock offroad - see 4x4 24x7 video tests. Cheers
Exact thing happened to mine.
Bought it second hand 🤦🏻♀️
My mechanic told me to see Mitsubishi and they’ve been honouring them whether or not they’re secondhand.
Booked in on the 26th of June, so fingers crossed.
Otherwise I’m selling it.
😪
Sucks though, because it’s a nice car apart from this BS.
Glad to hear they are honouring the warranty. They have had a real problem on their hands.
How did you go?
@@Jake-rz9ki they couldn’t find any fault with it even though it kept overheating when I’d take it on long drives..
So instead of throwing good money after bad I sold it and bought a brand new one
So if i just bought a 2013 late 2023 and the engine fails will mitsi replace the engine?
That's up to Mitsubishi. If it fails due to the common overheating fault, I have found them to be quite helpful trying to remedy the issue. The later models do not have the 4D56 engines & did not have the same problems.
Wouldn't the dealer have done an oil change after doing that type of extensive work?
Do you mean after the engine was replaced?
In theory , would waterless coolant prevent this issue arising??
Coolant has a specific mix that should be used. If exceeded no value is gained. In fact, pure antifreeze lacks sufficient heat capacity to keep the engine cool and the heat-transfer capabilities are lowered by 35%, which could cause engine damage.
What we are looking at with the Tritons, is a manufacturing design fault.
I have a 2013 mn and I only have 145,000 on it and it’s displaying the same same systems, it has only just started in the last few weeks. So I might as well go and get it checked
Yes, if you have those symptoms, the best thing is to get it diagnosed by the dealer & let them know that this is a common, documented fault.
Hope it works out well for you.
Let us know how you go
Hi mate, I’m looking at a 2012 triton 2.5 turbo diesel single cab 2WD. Are these okay?
I have worked on quite a few of these. Apart from maintenance items due to age (injectors, egr, turbo, etc at high kilometres), my customers have found these to be quite reliable. That being said, the obvious overheating issues happened in some of the models.
I have included links etc to helpful sites in the video description
Thanks for the informative vid MM 👍
You are welcome Fulcrum! 😉
Hi Max I have a 2015 mq triton with these symptoms I has about 215xxx kms on the clock I bought it 2nd hand with 150xxx kms it has been doing it the whole time i have owned it. do you think it would be same issue and do you think it would still be in warranty or mitsubishi would fix it?I was thinking it was just the radiator not being able to keep up then I googled it and found your video now I'm curious
Hey Jake,
The MQ 2.4 did not suffer from the same problems as the MN 2.5.
What testing have you done so far? Is the cap holding pressure OK? Is the thermostat operating at correct temperatures? Is the coolant ratio correct? Has the radiator been tested for blockages? Are there any fault codes? Is the engine running correctly?
I'm having to top up coolant nearly every tank of fuel. I have taken it to radiator specialists and they say everything is working fine. They all replace the radiator cap and say try this this should help. They have done pressure tests and the liquid test like you have done and they have passed them. When I drive at 100km/h towing I might pull over and turn vehicle off then can hear the radiator bubbling into the overflow if I go on a longer trip the temp gauge will go up 1 or 2 bars if I'm not careful if I sit on 110km/h and am towing up long hills temp goes up very quickly I'm only towing about 800kg
The pressure test and liquid test are all done when the engines cold is there a way to test when the engines hot not sure what to do
I had a brand new radiator put in about 20000km ago done the same thing the next day the put a new radiator cap on and a new cap for the over flow and that was it still doing it
@@Jake-rz9ki Losing coolant is not OK. Is it only when you drive distances that it overheats? Has a proper radiator flow test been done? Has the EGR cooler been tested? Are there any fault codes stored? Is the viscous fan working correctly? Does it blow smoke out the exhaust when overheating?
Hey guys did ever come across diesel gets hot when the techo meter does raps up on Mitsubishi' Triton
Sorry, 'does raps up'? What does that mean?
Hi max i have question
I want to change my coolant what's best coolant for mitsubishi l200 2016 4d56 strada
Here is an example of where to get information for any fluids on your vehicle.
www.datateck.com.au/lube/castr_au/
If you want to use other products, just include the name 'Penrite' for example before datateck & that should bring up the information you need.
@@MiracleMAX thanks max i want to flush my radiator what brand is good because it's so dirty I want to clean and change coolant
@@arwin9113 I use Penrite
www.datateck.com.au/Lube/PenriteAus/
If your coolant is very dirty, I suggest using a cleaner or backflushing the system
@@MiracleMAX ok thanks i will do
Is this still valid today??
Here in New Zealand. I have a 2014 mn Triton
Sorry, I can't comment on New Zealand, but the warranty is still valid here in Australia. Best thing is to go to the dealership and ask.
@@MiracleMAX Thank you for the quick response.
I can only ask.
Cheers
@@oshinzmarshallbrown2766 This is a common fault, so if you push the dealership to do the testing procedure, they will validate the warranty.....here at least
Does anyone know the diameter of EGR cooler hose? Planning to bypass it. Thanks in advance
Usually it's a standard heater hose 5/8 inch or 16mm
Thank youu . Appreciate it.
Great video!!!!
The owner was kind enough to keep in the loop all the way, so that I could try and help with the process. He seems a lot happier with his Triton now! 😉😁
The fact that Mitsubishi would allow such sloppy work says a lot for their quality 😖.. I'll stick to Toyota's, my 75 series Landcruiser has almost 700,000 on it and it still runs perfectly
That is a fair comment Mark. Mitsubishi have a good reputation for some time, but yes, they dropped the ball with this batch of Tritons.
Fair comment on the Toyotas. They are the biggest selling car company in the world & do have a reliable reputation.
@@MiracleMAX any idea what the time range for the bad 4D56 batch was please? Thanks!
@@joansparky4439 The best thing is to contact the dealer - they have all the VINs within the range. But they may also offer warranty if it is not within the VIN range, which was in this case.
@@joansparky4439 It's best to contact the dealer as they have the list of VINs. Some information on dates, etc is listed in the videos description. The engine in this case was out of the VIN list, however they still covered the warranty.
@@MiracleMAX Thanks.
It’s about time Mitshubish go over and beyond! I have moved around 5 times in the last 30yrs!Every mechanic I had, have always advised me to stay clear from buying Mitsubishi apparently due to problematics like this
It just seems to be this particular motor with this overheating issue
My engine failed the test they rejected it because they not happy with service history my argument is its a factory defect and they should make good of it
You could ring Mitsubishi Australia and put your case forward. I had a customer do that and they got another motor. But they do have the right to reject it if the service history has not been kept up to date.
Is everybody getting charged $1200 by Mitsubishi to do the stress ?
Ah, no! It should cost perhaps a standard diagnostic fee........certainly not that much! Did they use gold-plated tools?
The diagnosis test should only be around$176. Some dealers want to remove the block and see what is causing it and this charge would usually be between $1200,$1700. I would recommend you asking the dealer to just send the report for the stress test Mitsubishi Australia and see what they come back with
@@QueenStreetCowboy If the engine is at fault, then Mitsubishi will reimburse the cost of the diagnostic fee.
I have a 2010 triton at 83klm replaced the long block under warrannty. Another 87klm later I ha e the same problem. Obviosly they replaced it with the same problem. No more warranty! Now its going to cost me big $$8k. Mitsubishi is crap
Hey Peter Pan Poly,
I'm surprised that it isn't covered under warranty with an existing problem. Have you spoken to Mitsubishi directly?
@@MiracleMAX yes I tried a few times talking to the dealership were I brought the triton and have been servicing it for the past 12 years. They said Ive got no chancee of getting a long block replacement again after the 1st block . They won't replace the 2nd block even though it has the same manufacturing fault after another 87klm it happened again on the new 2nd block they would only give me 3 month warranty. I dont know what to do. They said Ive got no chance of getting it replaced.
Regards Peter
@@peterpanpoly1217 I have read of others that have had their blocks replaced a second time. Best to contact, not the dealer, but Mitsubishi directly & kick up a stink!
@@MiracleMAX thanks for the info and support I guess I'll have to go for them!
@@peterpanpoly1217 Did you have any luck with contacting them directy? I just got the comfimation that my MN failed the test and that there applying for a new long block. Not sure how this is gonna play out as its a 2014 model.
Hell Max. I am having very odd but similar complications with my 2015 MN triton. Long story short, it was over heating last Thursday night, on the highway w/ no load, 25 minutes of driving with cruise control on. after a local mechanic visit this Tuesday. Relevant tests were conducted showing no faults. Mechanic said it could be a thermostat on its way out. oil is fine and topped up, coolant is fine and topped up - no signs of bubbles, no leaks on the garage floor, no visible damage to anything. My triton has a 4D56UCFS7360 engine. The coolant is 50/30, the radiator cap is 127kPa, and when I bought it privately, the ex owner said the engine was remapped/modded/chipped what ever you want to call it. I am baffled with the knowledge I have based off my research, but what is worst my mechanic is just as confused. Any suggestions ?🫠
Probably should of watched the whole video before I commented… I have my ute booked into the local Mitsubishi dealership. Silly question, but would it be a good idea I tell them I know about the campaign 020116, and get them to do necessary fault finding checks anyway and go from there?
Hey Awilly,
These engines are a bit tricky to diagnose, so it is best to take your vehicle to the local dealership so that they can carry out the necessary diagnosis.
Hey Awilly,
Yes you can mention the possible warranty. As mentioned in the video, they will reimburse the cost of the diagnosis if it becomes a warranty claim. Let us know how you go 😉
@@MiracleMAX hey Max thanks for the prompt response. I didn’t win the powerball last week. So maybe my luck is due to hit next week. Thanks mate!
@@awilly1991 It'll be interesting to see the outcome