@@nazzytpr that's an understatement for this channel. car abuse channel? car creativity channel? not sure what to call these guys as a car channel. but one thing i learned over the years is that, that simple lada engine has to be one of the toughest, most resilient engines ever built.
Great video on how engine flush can clean an engine. The big point that needs to be informed to others, that the sludged up engine surely has suffered excessive wear do to negligence. No matter how how clean you can get it back, the wear can't be restored without an a expensive rebuid. Prevention is cheaper than Correction. Change your oil often.
OMG I try to explain this to all my friends and acquaintances who seem to think oil changes aren't important or can be delayed 10k miles and then done and it'll be as if it was done on time. I keep telling them it's cheaper than a new engine.
I bought a Toyota Celica but 130,000 miles on it transmission fluid never changed. My mechanic said that tranny is done it’s slipping. I change the fluid seven times in a row and drove it another 150 thousand miles perfectly. Easy to do with a drain plug
That's good my friend.. my 92 GTS said it was good without me asking.n I don't know why I never changed it but I did have shifting issues with my Pontiac Grand am and after changing the transmission filter and putting amsoil in it smoothed out.. I ran into another 20,000 mi and it Exploded😂
Since my 96 Cherokee also had a tranny drainplug, I changed its fluid every 10k miles 3 times. The tranny had over 250k miles when I got it and over 350k when I got rid of it with zero issues.
@@bloodclot Not sure what a Celica takes, I can buy a rebuilt trans for my panthers for the $700 in fluid it would take to flush it 7 times. I'd go for a $20 bottle of lucus trans fix first. That said, I've had 5 cars with the 4r70w and not one of them has ever had transmission problems with 300-500K miles on each, and no maintenance done on any of them. Changing oil regularly, absolutely. Changing trans fluid? never.
The problem with "Engine flush" products that actually work at removing sludge is that some of that sludge will fall into the oil sump in clumps that can then plug the oil pump pickup screen, small oil passages, or oil filters. When you plug an oil pump pickup screen or a small oil passage the problem is obviouus, a lack of oil pressure. With a plugged pickup screen it will be the complete oil system has no oil or too little oil and it will show on your gauge or low oil pressure indicator light but a clogged passage for a cam bearing or rocker arm shaft wouldn't be obvious in that it probably won't show up on your gauge or indicator light. The possibility that your oil filter gets plugged up with sludge particulates is the most likely problem and it also wont likely show up on the gauge or indicator lights unless your oil filter or oiling system doesn't have a bypass (typically designed to bypass the oil filter on cold startups during cold weather conditions that make pushing thick oil through filter elements difficult or impossible) In the event of a clogged filter on a system with a bypass you are now getting unfiltered oil pumped directly into your rod bearings, main bearings, cam bearings, etc... which is obviously not ideal. In the event of a clogged filter without a bypass, either in the filter or the oiling system itself, if you have an oil pressure gauge you will get a warning that something is wrong when it's showing oil pressure way above ordinary. Without a gauge the first visible sign will be an oil filter that "Puffs up" and shortly thereafter either bursts or at a minimum blows the o-ring seal out and sprays oil everywhere. My advice for sludge filled engines is simply do oil and filter changes with a high detergent motor oil as frequently as you can afford rather than an "Engine Flush" treatment. Yes it will take a number of oil and filter changes before you begin to see much difference in sludge formations this way but the truth is the sludge removal that is most important, where it affects the oils ability to return to the sump will be the first place that will be cleaned so even if it's not a dramatic visible improvement it's making a difference. And while most anti sludge "Engine Flush" treatments are made safe for use by basically making them not real effective and therefore a waste of money the possibility of breaking large enough clumps of sludge to cause problems is a possibility.
@treyleon8112 yeah, you could, and should, but in a lot of cars the pan is right on top of a crossmember so at a minimum you would have to remove the motor mount bolts and then use a hoist to pull the engine up high enough to get the pan out. On some vehicles even that will not get enough clearance to pull the pan out. Add that to the fact that anyone who would let their engine go long enough between oil changes to sludge up like that isn't going to pull the pan to clean it out. Also on some engines the seals at each end of the oil pan can be tricky enough to get a good oil tight seal when the engine is flipped upside down on an engine stand, doing it under the car while they keep trying to fall out would be a lot of fun, too much fun for me.
I took a magnum in a dodge...over 500,000 km. I ran sea foam engine cleaner throught the throttlebody C.F.I and placed one liter of transmission fluid in the oil in the crankcase ran it awhile an changed it out for synthetic oil after. That truck is now on 573,000 km without blue smoke or grey. Still runs well🙂Crazy stuff.
I added mineral ATF to new but cheap 5w30 oil as 1/7 quarts. Run the car on idle twice for 15 minutes the drove it the third time for 15 minutes with low load ! I does the job of cleaning internal parts of engine and piston rings freed. I haven't checked the catalytic converter yet 😮.. The engine was not as smooth as it is with just engine oil and some knocking I already having before was a bit Lauder during experiment
everything would have to be stripped down to see, but with such condition on the 2nd engine, chances are that at least on the first flushes it didnt clean them if it was clogged
If you live in the USA get a a 12oz bottle or 1 gallon jug of Schaeffers 131. It is officaly sold as a fuel additive but has for the past 30 years listed an engine purge on the back of the bottle. Start with 1oz per quart of oil 500 to 800 miles before you change the oil. After the first one next time do 2oz per quart 1000 miles before oil change. I have gone as high as 4oz per quart in really dirty engines. Never used it in badly sludged engines but have been using it for 20+ years. Works great on used Toyota's and European cars that have had 10,000 mile oil changes and are full of thick heavy varnish. Normaly the first flush will remove 50% of the varnish to the naked eye. Once you have it clean it is easy to put 4oz in it once a year or every other year to keep it clean.
I have used Schaeffers full synthetic in all my cars. Great products, my current daily has almost 157k miles on it and runs perfect, internals perfectly clean with only one change of Mobil 1 synthetic just because I couldn't get Schaeffers. Going to Lubrication Engineers oil next.
Drain 1qt, add 2pt diesel 1c methanol, 1c ammonia. Ammonia is a great emulsifier but it is not miscible with oil but it is with methanol. Methanol is also missable with oil. Use this on the first flush, let run at idle for 30 minutes, allow to drain for 20 minutes remove the oil cap when you do so that any residual ammonia vapor can escape. Second flush add one quart of diesel to the oil, let it run for at least 20 minutes then drain and remove your oil filter and put a new one on. There will not be any sludge left. It will look like you steam cleaned it. Nothing but shiny metal. Another cheap solution that gets the same results but takes longer... At one quart of transmission fluid 300 mi before your oil change. Transmission fluid has detergents that do the same thing but it's weaker and takes longer in addition transmission fluid is hydraulic oil and will emulsify sludge but again it takes longer. Both of these are great solutions that don't cost that much and work as well if not better than seafoams and over the counter engine flushes.
Technically, sludge is just broken down oil, and gasoline is very effective at breaking down oil, so you could basically do an oil change using gasoline, let it sit a few hours, take out the ignition relay so you can crank the engine without it starting, crank it very briefly just to move everything around, put the ignition relay back in, then do a proper oil change with oil.
Methanol and gasoline are both capable of making an explosive vapour from inside the engine. It then goes out the breather pipe and if you unlucky, in the to engine to get burned. Then you have either A backfire A runaway engine An explosion
@@theairstig9164 Pretty rare on a gas engine isn't it? I think way more likely with a turbo, or with a diesel engine where a failure can lead to oil pouring into the combustion chamber, where even if you shut off the fuel flow, oil keeps pouring in so it keeps escalating, since those engines ignite the diesel solely by pressure, and since that works even better on oil.
Put a half a pint of diesel fuel in the engine sump/oil pan with the existing engine oil. Run the engine at a fast idle for 20 minutes. Drain the oil and renew the oil and filter. Works for both petrol and diesel engines. Particularly good for engines with hydraulic lifters.
I've seen people do this engine flush and break stuff loose and ruin the engine. sometimes it takes that stuff awhile to work and everything breaks free and you don't know it until the bearings are scored,and the lifters are plugged! You gotta remember alot of people dont change their oil ever,it happens more than you think ,people lie about it for some reason? then you buy the piece of crap vehicle and try to run this stuff in there and kaboom!
@@fastinradfordable Sometimes it is the gunk that stops the engine from leaking. Once you remove the gunk, all hells break loose, leaks everywhere. And if you do engine oil maintainance according to schedule, there is no need to flush it. An engine is not a toilet, you don't always have to flush it.
I've been flushing my old engines every time I changed the oil - maybe beside my brand new car, since there the engine was clean and I manage to keep it clean by frequent oil changes. Nothing ever broke down. Bah, I even flushed one of my diesel engines with diesel fuel (a few rounds of it) and it's still fine. I guess that flushing an engine that is literally all gunked up due to running the same oil for a few years and tens of thousands of miles is where the bad stuff might happen. If you have one like that, it's better to either leave it as is until it really breaks down, or disassemble it completely and clean the parts manually if you're into it.
I was having VVT lifter check engine codes in my honda and I read online clogged oil galleries were a likely culprit. I bought a bottle of seafoam, engine flush and some diesel + new leftover oil from previous changes, I let it run a good hour and occasionally revved the engine. The gunk that came out was black, and wouldn't you know it after clearing the code it hasn't came back in 4 months of daily driving.
They were a very very common car. Like looking for an old f150 or Chevy 1500 in the US, lots of people (especially in rural areas) have one (or many) parked in the back yard all rusted out, or in a barn.
@@volvo09 A better comparison would be the ford model T which was ubiquitous due to fords monopoly at the time. lada also had a monopoly due to the political structure of the ussr.
Bearing wear, before and after would be interesting too.... flushing all particles loose will also make it into the bearings, oil filter will not catch it all.
@@1marcelfilms I worked flat rate for years and I have to agree that oil and tire work doesn't pay the bills. OTOH, it does give you an opportunity to look at other things and that's where the gravy is. Shocks and brakes are dirty work, but they usually pay well.
In Australia we found a trick with the Buick 3800/Ecotec V6 , Adding a bottle of "sticky lifter" treatment to the engine and leaving it in there for 2 weeks then flushing it out makes it like new again. I have done this to a few cars and they are still going strong.
Yeah ,they don't think so look fine as clean the engine. Better to use Valvoline clean and repair oil. Is just like a normal motor oil but slowly brake down the sludge.
yep heard it said before it's not always a good idea to use engine flush on a higher milage engine that's never had any or you can suddenly find your self with a worn out knocking engine as it removes a coating that has built up keeping things quiet & once it's flushed out everything is rattling
I did 20 engine flushes on my old racebike. Every time my oil stayed like new for almost 1000km. A good flush has additives that protect the engine while doing its thing
This was a much needed video for me as well as others I’m sure. As always your videos are incredibly in depth and well made, similar to another great testing channel Project Farm. Thank you for all your hard work
@@hdlivemodelsif diesel works, it makes sense kerosene works too. Very similar makeup as diesel, to the point that most mechanical diesel engines will run on kerosene
my buddy would use diesel. he would drain the oil, top it off with diesel, run the engine for about 5 minutes, drain and change the filter, then repeat the process a couple more times before installing fresh oil and a new filter. he swore by it. as for myself, I change the oil and filter religiously. probably more frequently than is truly necessary.
I used the engine oil cleaner from Liqui Moly when i bought my Honda Civic. I filled it in the oil and let the car run for 200 kilometers (not pushing it to hard) I then drained all the oil and some insanely disgusting stuff came out. Then i filled in the new oil and the car was running much smoother and better. I also added an oil additive for even less resistance. After that i also used Liqui Moly injector cleaner for the gasoline and after it ran thrue, i tank normal gasoline like always. I uploaded some acceleration videos on another channel and people doubt that the car was stock, because it was running so incredibly good. Would be even better if u put in new oil, let it run for another 200km and then change the oil again, to get really everything nasty out of the engine.
Had an engine I was going to replace because is was going through 1 gt of oil for every hr driving, triple that when towing. Did a last attempt to fix it by replacing engine oil with transmission fluid and ran it lightly fro about 100-200 miles and changed oil like usual. After I changed the oil it hasn't used a drop of oil in between normal oil changes. Don't need to waste money or flush because ATF is high detergent, is cheap and doesn't harm seals etc
Love this channel. Russian, American, makes no difference we are all shade tree mechanics with the basics used just like these guys do. I just love the clutter around the shop...looks like A REAL SHOP!
Been there done that. Nothing more than a very thin flush that can ruin your bearings easily. Only advantage the oil will run out the plug faster and less will be left in the engine so fresh oil will look cleaner for longer. Removing build up on the oil rings, it does nothing.
I feel like if there was a way to run a gallon or two of the cleaner through the engine on a continuous circuit, without running the engine. If you were able to do it for 6-8 hours. Would that leave it squeaky clean? Then add oil and run the engine as normal. I only suggest because I've heard old timers talk about filling an engine completely up with diesel or tranny fluid. Let it sit for a few days then drain.. In theory seems like it would clean out gunk with the right fluid.
I can't believe they didn't shake any of those bottles of flush. there was obviously a thick white portion that has settled to the bottom of each bottle.
i was thinking that powder or whatever may also be the black sediment in the final result. if it's a fine enough powder to make it thru the oil filter it could possibly be, just absorbed/coated with something or just burned
Bought some used fleet vehicles years ago (Chevy Astro Vans) and the inside of the oil cap showed crud build up. Fast forward to around 200,000 miles and needing intake gaskets. We found them all spotless internally. First company used Wolf's Head and we used Penzoil. Did the same with my 64 Chevy and 5 years later I did an oil pan gasket.... spotless inside! Whatever they put in Penzoil seems to work!
Love this channel.And you guys think like a great mechanic. Engine flush, have to add a couple .1 automatic transmission fluid ,2 kerosene.,3 Marvel mystery oil.
12:34 Finally I can find out if this will work? Love your channel. I went to have a look at a car for my son and it was dirtier inside the rocker cover than the car you are working on! Cheers from Australia 👍
I stopped adding oil additives and cleaners etc. after some stuff possibly made my last car knock but this makes me almost want to use a cleaner atleast every so often.. Awesome Experiment..
Easy way is to not let it sludge up in the first place So don't do things like let BMW decide to not change your oil at 12-18mo/15000km services like I saw numerous times in the service books of E63 6 series I was looking at earlier this year
@@greebjDear gods.. 15,000km is about 4,000km more than I'd ever push an oil change (about 11,200 tops) and in a BMW... Damn they really are trying to ensure your engine breaks and you have to either blow money on repairs or a new BMW.
An interesting experiment would be using a couple of oil changes using a thinner 0W20 oil, and check it detergent effect. Flushing products could leave residue.
@@DashCamSerbia The issue with engine flush additives, it's that they can lower the lubricity of the oil, get the oil pick up tube clogged, and obstruct some sensitive passages as with variable timing. Using thinner oil would be a less aggressive engine flush.
@@RogerM88 That is a myth. They disolve carbon an enamel, they dont loosen up big chunks. And if your engine already has a lot of carbon buildup and sludge, be sure that all those small oil channels are already partially clogged. And engine flush will help with that. Using oil that was not intended for the engine is much mush worse. The eninge is designed to have desired oil presure by having the certain diameter of the oil passages and the oil pump flow, which is direcly tied to the oil viscosity. If you change the oil viscosity, you are changing everything. The oil presure, the oil flow rate, the film strenght,...
Great video! I’m not sure what brand flush they are using, but it’s interesting to watch a video like this where there is no outside influence from a sponsor.
an old mechanic told me ATF works good because of the detergents in it, I occasionally add 1/2 to 1 quart before oil change, seems to work. no adverse effects after 10 years owning this vehicle and it stays clean.
Using good synthetic and changing it on time does as well, but takes longer. Bought a FWD GM with a 3.5L that had 85k miles but less than stellar maintenance that was kinda grimy inside and ran Mobile 1 because it’s what I usually have on hand. After a year or so I finally got tired of listening to the valve tap that it had since I bought it and opened it up to put new lifters in and damn it was completely spotless inside. Any traces of sludge were gone and it was immaculate inside, so if it’s not too bad just doing proactive oil changes will clean it out. Would have been nice to see how far it would have gone but at 170k miles the transmission ended up loosing a gear.
@@mysock351C Yep, nothing beats regular, on-time changes with a good quality oil. Far better than getting to a stage of wanting to use an engine flush. People fail to understand that engine oils are blended with an additive and detergent package that still allows the engine oil to be a good lubricant. The engine flushes are harsh detergents that are more likely to do damage than keep the oil lubricating like it is supposed to be doing. Your approach is far better.
Yep, good o' transmission fluid. Done that for years I've evolved to adding Sea Foam a few days before changing the oil. Have 480k on my 08 Chevy Express 2500 work van. Pulled the pan & valve covers for leaking gaskets, and it was spotless inside
That looks like the inside of my VMAX1200. I bought it in Thailand, trusted the seller when I shouldn't have. The engine looked like that, and the tank, carbs and entire fuel system were full of rust. The bloke I sold it to had the time and resources and tools to do it justice properly. I want another one.
Hang a 55 gallon drum of engine flush above the engine. Install a hose to the valve cover and secure tightly. Start the engine and warm up. Open the drum of engine flush and remove the drain plug simultaneously. Stop the engine when drain flow stops. Replace drain plug. Fill with oil and change filter.
You'd have to limit the flow some. You'd be amaze at how quickly 55 gallons will pass through an engine block... Plus it won't reach all spots since the oil pump and what not is in the pan.
If you have a sludgy engine, your best bet is to keep up regular oil changes and run it until it breaks. You want to keep all that sludge right where it's at: Separate from the engine oil and out of the bearings and moving parts. When you flush sludge, you break it up and send it all over the engine, creating countless opportunities for it to get into bearings and other moving parts, shortening the life of the engine. LEAVE SLUDGE WHERE IT IS... or just rebuild your engine!
@@jamahlrawls3520 I believe you may have a misunderstanding of the definition of the word "atomize," as it does not apply here. No atomization occurrs in the crancase of a gasoline engine.
Generally I would agree with you but frankly, if you have visible sludge from neglect, if you just pulled the heads and the oil pan, give them a good bath in the parts cleaner, then reinstall, you could run cleaner through it with no problem to get the rest of the junk out. Much cheaper and less involved with rebuilding the thing. I do agree with the run-it-until-it-breaks mantra when dealing with neglected cars but if you have a car you really enjoy like a good Toyota or Honda then I might invest more time into it. I had a 96 Cherokee that was neglected (got for $500) and looked pretty crappy but once I got it up and running I really liked having it over my Caddy
I got an engine that was very "Sludge-y." Flushed it 3 times with a combo of ATF & oil, then kerosene and ATF. Fresh filter every time, cleaned the oil pump pick up, and then did the oil change in under 1K miles. Sold that old Dart 20 over 20 years ago, and the guy still has that car running around- it's more of a toy, but it is still going
One thing you should try, fill an engine up to the brim with diesel, and let it sit, don't run it (diesel isn't thick enough), or at most spin it off the starter with no spark plugs in so there's no load.
That's why I use engine flush, I reckon the detergent effect wears off as it's likely volatile. So, by the end of your cycle, you will have deposits, putting in new oil will bring that back in suspension until the detergent is neutralized. You could be stuck in a loop that keeps the sludge in the engine. The flush makes the old oil detergent again, so the sludge goes out with the oil.
What I would have like to have seen was after the first 4 flushes of the first one - pull the valve cover and examine it. Then try flushing it with oil and the little additive bottle and see if starts coming out dirty again. The little additive bottle is some serious detergent. - but it was cleaning grime from the engine - not "sludge". It was doing a nice job of it. The only issue is that the solvents in the second cleaner can be really hard on the rubber gaskets and the plastic slides for the timing chain. The inside of the engine is clean - but the valve seals and all the gaskets that keep oil inside the engine start leaking because the solvents have eaten away and hardened the gaskets.
Sponsored by the people who make the little bottles of engine cleaner. The big silver bottle folks refused to pay up, hence no free advertising for you, Ivan.
Since the products were all Russian and most of us here are American, I don’t think it matters. Just an interesting demonstration of the difference between engine cleaning additives.
yea, Im guessing the 'flushing oil' is just oil? which showed no more 'sludge' was coming out with the oil, or they didnt run it long enough to do so. The detergent would obviously dissolve what the oil could/had not. But thats the thing, If the oil wasnt being contaminated and draining as nearly new. Id say your all good. If anything, use a detergent once just to address the oil galleries, then couple oil flushes and itd be more than sufficient.....
@@JDARJISJ Hes referring to the fact they removed the labels on the 5qt jugs, but didnt cover the cans. They never hide brands so far as Ive noticed. Im sure they are superstars in RU. Of course they would be locally sponsored.
I had an LS in an Escalade a guy sold me found out later he did not change his oil. Drained it. Filled full of diesel fuel. Idle it for 15 minutes or so. Drained. Filled it about 2/3 to 3/4 of oil, the rest diesel. Drove it for a few hundred miles. Drained. Filled with oil. It ran okay after that. I’ve added some ATF fluid as well a bit before an oil change to clean it up.
I would love to see similar test to compare oil flush vs fuel additives to see which one cleans piston rings and oil rings better. Of course, such a test would require a lot more work because getting a view of the piston rings requires full engine teardown.
I have bought several vehicles very cheaply due to having a bad engine. All these were due to no oil changes (literally one of the previous owners told me you never have to change oil, just keep adding as needed) or not enough changes. My fix was never an engine flush, I just did multiple oil changes and filters until the bad noises diminished or minimized. The engines were still dirty but not so bad the lifters, etc. made any terrible sounds. Then with fresh oil and filter I used the vehicle but changed the oil after 200-300 miles and next time 500-600 extending the miles continuously until you get to the maximum mile interval. However if the oil was not better than the last change I would not increase the miles.
Just diesel, let it idle 20 min., drain it, repeat it few times, all the sludge will be gone, and it will not hurt the engine, as long as you don't drive it while doing so, just idle!
@@dietznutz1 It has been tested on YT with measurements before and after. As far as I remember, bloke had flushed 7 times with pure diesel until it came out crystal clear. Then stripped again and measured and no damage was noted.
I wonder how much of a difference it would make to pull the oil pan and clean it out before starting. If the engine looks that bad, I’m sure there’s a lot of sludge in the pan that could be removed, making the flushes much more effective. Still interesting to see, thank you for sharing.
@@mohamedabadila انا ما جبت شي من عندي ... عن أنس بن مالك قال: جاء رجل إلى رسول الله صلى الله عليه وسلم فقال: يا رسول الله متى الساعة؟ قال: وما أعددت للساعة؟ قال: حب الله ورسوله، قال: فإنك مع من أحببت، قال أنس: فما فرحنا بعد الإسلام فرحا أشد من قول النبي صلى الله عليه وسلم: فإنك مع من أحببت. قال أنس: فأنا أحب الله ورسوله وأبا بكر وعمر، فأرجو أن أكون معهم، وإن لم أعمل بأعمالهم . طبعا ما تعرف ان الروس ابادو اخوننا في سوريا صح ؟ ولا انت حافظ احاديث معينه كاليهودي يأخذ من الدين ما يريد ويرمي ما يريد !!
Please continue doing what you do the best. Hat down guys 👏👏👏 The best channel for people that want to self repair their cars 👏 Great video - superb ideas 😁
Would love to see you guys take an old filthy car and do a complete detailing job. Clean the engine compartment and engine, and the interior and exterior! That would also make a pretty amazing video!..👍👍 Love this channel.
Amazing video, BUT, I have a controversial thought: Isnt it WORSE to make the burned deposits LOOSE and let them swim in the oil? The main purpose of the oil is lubrication. As soon as you free the deposits, the oil changes into an abrasive fluid. The real test would be to do 1 round of sea foam, then drain the seafoam affected dirty oil with loose perticles out, pour in some new oil WITHOUT seafoam, let it run for an hour, and THEN flush that oil to see the condition of it. My hypothesis is, that this oil would be MUCH dirtier than optimal - becasue you have no chance of draining all the seafom with your first drain. ANd now imagine, this "fresh oil poured after seafoam cleaning" is THE oil that most people would run for another 10k or 20k kilometers....so...if THAT oil is dirty and full of particles.....you will actually casue your engine to wear horribly more compared to a situation where you did not use any sea foam at all. THe gunk in the oil pan, or deposits burned hard to your valve cover, are less harmfull when they stay where they are, compared to making them loose from the surface and let them transform your engine lubricant (oil) into an engine abrasive (oil with loose deposits). I think that after this, if I would efer used sea foam like product to clean the engine, I would then proceed to make another couple flushes with clean oil without seafoam antil the oil that is drained starts to look so clean like the like the one drained from Lada 1.... anybody agrees with me?
Many years ago I had a dummy boss ask me to clean up a Mazda 1.8 liter. It was extremely dirty and crusty busty but low mileage. He asked me to pour diesel into oil. I warned him and advised him he shouldn't. well he got upset w me so I said (OKAY). the sludge and dried carbon all let go at once. Customer bought and drove car maybe 4 miles then a squeal and it stopped. tow truck and diagnostic. camshafts had solid seized up do to oil pump sump being like 95% clogged. he made me remove cams and pan. clean. polish. put back together and send it. laugh my asssss off!!! I left that used car lot directly after. That guy was bonkers. Moral of story. Change oil at regular intervals.
Thank you Garage 54!! When I would get a dirty engine I would pour gas/petrol all the way up to the filler cap, then leave it for about a week. After that, drain without starting the engine, then put used oil in it. Run for 30 min, then drain. Put more used oil in, run again, then drain. Then try new oil and filter, see what it looks like. Maybe keep going, or stop if clean. Works really well! Just do not start engine with just gas/petrol!!
To see how effective the first flush system is, give that first engine a 5th treatment with the second system and you'll see if it brings more out, or if the second flush just works slower or had more to deal with in the second engine.
I can’t escape these guys 😂 had found them on my suggested years ago and loved it so I subscribed lately I’ve been using another account and somehow they are right back in me suggested 😂
I have an idea for an interesting episode? What if you strap 3x airbags in the front bumper and 3 in the rear bumper, wonder how that would protect the car against damage in an accident?
To be fair, you can probably obtain the same results much quicker by removing the oil pan and truly emptying it (so that it is just the sludge that's darkening the new oil). I recently changed my oil pan's gasket, and man, I didn't expect it to be so much oil left inside (almost a liter, and I'm talking about a small 1.4 gasoline engine).
Look how filthy the oil going in is at 6:34. Just drop the oil pan pull off the rocker cover spray everything inside with easy off oven cleaner let it sit for an hours then hose the engine out with a garden hose, leave to dry then put the pan on oil all the rockers put on the cover and fill the crank case. Thats how to flush an engine. Been doing it for years.
Using cooking oil is going viral in Indonesia. In fact, cooking oil is heat resistant and friction resistant for daily use in engines and can dissolve engine sludge.
my dad bought a used car with a straight many years ago. He filled it to the top with diesel fuel and let it set overnight. Drained it then filled it again. Let it drain for 24 hours and put oil and a new filter on it. Lots of sludge came out of it. People were probably using non-detergent oil in it.
If you don’t drop the pan after you have now just clogged your pick up tube. The best way is to remove the pan entirely and thoroughly clean/scrape all the sludge out or use gas in a plastic bottle and a parts washer brush and flush it through the drain holes on the head through the block and out the bottom with the pan and windage tray and pick up tube removed it will have the best chance of living. Also use good oil for its detergents and cleaning property’s. Take the one of the cam caps off first if the cam bearing is chewed up it might not be worth the time.
Do not use engine flush on older engines with turbos installed, unless you have consistently flushed the engine from new. Reason being, a lot of the sludge and build up over time actually helps create seals and take up gaps within the engine. Quite common for turbos to fail after an engine flush, especially with chemical additives. 👍🏼
I would have loved to see the seafoam-type additive added to the first car after the normal oil flush had stopped working. That would have definitely shown a difference, as the next flush should have been darker.
For you fans of Seafoam, use same amount of charcoal lighting fluid and spend the money you saved on a good filter. A great quick flush is a pint of mineral spirits paint thinner, pour it in a cold engine and idle for 15 minutes. IDLE do NOT rev!.
I have no idea how I got onto this Russian car maintenance channel.. But as a car maintenance lover.. I loved the video.
Bro same for me I love this fucking channel !!!
Not exactly a maintenance channel tho😂😂
It's garage 54. It's just basic men being men and trying shuff out.
This channel is awesome, been watching for years.
@@nazzytpr that's an understatement for this channel. car abuse channel? car creativity channel? not sure what to call these guys as a car channel. but one thing i learned over the years is that, that simple lada engine has to be one of the toughest, most resilient engines ever built.
Great video on how engine flush can clean an engine. The big point that needs to be informed to others, that the sludged up engine surely has suffered excessive wear do to negligence. No matter how how clean you can get it back, the wear can't be restored without an a expensive rebuid. Prevention is cheaper than Correction. Change your oil often.
OMG I try to explain this to all my friends and acquaintances who seem to think oil changes aren't important or can be delayed 10k miles and then done and it'll be as if it was done on time. I keep telling them it's cheaper than a new engine.
@@pilotlarsyeah ,change your engine oil on time ,you said well
@@pilotlarsyet we still have manufacturers who say engine oil will last up to 20k miles 😂
@tabishkhan2966 and that works as far as they're concerned because the engine blows up at 100k miles and they can sell you a new one or a new car.
7.5kkm on any higher performance motor.
I bought a Toyota Celica but 130,000 miles on it transmission fluid never changed. My mechanic said that tranny is done it’s slipping. I change the fluid seven times in a row and drove it another 150 thousand miles perfectly.
Easy to do with a drain plug
That's good my friend.. my 92 GTS said it was good without me asking.n I don't know why I never changed it but I did have shifting issues with my Pontiac Grand am and after changing the transmission filter and putting amsoil in it smoothed out.. I ran into another 20,000 mi and it Exploded😂
Since my 96 Cherokee also had a tranny drainplug, I changed its fluid every 10k miles 3 times. The tranny had over 250k miles when I got it and over 350k when I got rid of it with zero issues.
I bought a 89 celica GT, debating doing this too
@@bloodclot Not sure what a Celica takes, I can buy a rebuilt trans for my panthers for the $700 in fluid it would take to flush it 7 times. I'd go for a $20 bottle of lucus trans fix first. That said, I've had 5 cars with the 4r70w and not one of them has ever had transmission problems with 300-500K miles on each, and no maintenance done on any of them. Changing oil regularly, absolutely. Changing trans fluid? never.
Have a 2006 lexus es330 with 180k maybe never changed. Replaced the trans filter after a few drain and fills and only got 10k miles and fail.
I wish you had opened each filter, to see how much of the filter media was plugged.
@@manitoba-op4jx or a reusable filter, with screens to strain, like old stuff
i might get one for my car, to keep an eye on it's internal condition.
Oil pump wear would be immense also
Exactly!!!
Couldn’t agree more bro
They have a separate video for that, trying to see how many filters it will take to clean oil in the lada engine
Was hoping the pan would be removed prior to the first flush and after the last flush. To see the bottom end of the engine as well, before and after.
There is no point as there is less oil flow on the valvetrain, therefore the bottom end is a lot cleaner anyway
yep
The problem with "Engine flush" products that actually work at removing sludge is that some of that sludge will fall into the oil sump in clumps that can then plug the oil pump pickup screen, small oil passages, or oil filters. When you plug an oil pump pickup screen or a small oil passage the problem is obviouus, a lack of oil pressure. With a plugged pickup screen it will be the complete oil system has no oil or too little oil and it will show on your gauge or low oil pressure indicator light but a clogged passage for a cam bearing or rocker arm shaft wouldn't be obvious in that it probably won't show up on your gauge or indicator light. The possibility that your oil filter gets plugged up with sludge particulates is the most likely problem and it also wont likely show up on the gauge or indicator lights unless your oil filter or oiling system doesn't have a bypass (typically designed to bypass the oil filter on cold startups during cold weather conditions that make pushing thick oil through filter elements difficult or impossible) In the event of a clogged filter on a system with a bypass you are now getting unfiltered oil pumped directly into your rod bearings, main bearings, cam bearings, etc... which is obviously not ideal. In the event of a clogged filter without a bypass, either in the filter or the oiling system itself, if you have an oil pressure gauge you will get a warning that something is wrong when it's showing oil pressure way above ordinary. Without a gauge the first visible sign will be an oil filter that "Puffs up" and shortly thereafter either bursts or at a minimum blows the o-ring seal out and sprays oil everywhere. My advice for sludge filled engines is simply do oil and filter changes with a high detergent motor oil as frequently as you can afford rather than an "Engine Flush" treatment. Yes it will take a number of oil and filter changes before you begin to see much difference in sludge formations this way but the truth is the sludge removal that is most important, where it affects the oils ability to return to the sump will be the first place that will be cleaned so even if it's not a dramatic visible improvement it's making a difference. And while most anti sludge "Engine Flush" treatments are made safe for use by basically making them not real effective and therefore a waste of money the possibility of breaking large enough clumps of sludge to cause problems is a possibility.
Couldn’t you just remove bottom pan, clean & clean pickup screen as well? I would think that would be mandatory when cleaning sludge
@treyleon8112 yeah, you could, and should, but in a lot of cars the pan is right on top of a crossmember so at a minimum you would have to remove the motor mount bolts and then use a hoist to pull the engine up high enough to get the pan out. On some vehicles even that will not get enough clearance to pull the pan out. Add that to the fact that anyone who would let their engine go long enough between oil changes to sludge up like that isn't going to pull the pan to clean it out. Also on some engines the seals at each end of the oil pan can be tricky enough to get a good oil tight seal when the engine is flipped upside down on an engine stand, doing it under the car while they keep trying to fall out would be a lot of fun, too much fun for me.
@@oldhillbillybuckkowalski true
Regular oil change intervals is the key to that so. If you changed your oil every 3-4000 miles you really wouldn't have to worry about sludge build up
Thank you Chat GBT❤
I took a magnum in a dodge...over 500,000 km. I ran sea foam engine cleaner throught the throttlebody C.F.I and placed one liter of transmission fluid in the oil in the crankcase ran it awhile an changed it out for synthetic oil after. That truck is now on 573,000 km without blue smoke or grey. Still runs well🙂Crazy stuff.
Cool story bro
@@mann_idonotreadreplies
😂😂😂😂
That was too much
used to do 1 qt of atf 500-800 miles before an oil change, engine seems pretty clean.
ATF works it is a detergent
I added mineral ATF to new but cheap 5w30 oil as 1/7 quarts. Run the car on idle twice for 15 minutes the drove it the third time for 15 minutes with low load !
I does the job of cleaning internal parts of engine and piston rings freed.
I haven't checked the catalytic converter yet 😮..
The engine was not as smooth as it is with just engine oil and some knocking I already having before was a bit Lauder during experiment
This really showed your question which was how much will this remove. It was obvious. Very good real information. Thanks.
If it can clean under the valve cover like that imagine how good its cleaning all the oil passages.
who knows
everything would have to be stripped down to see, but with such condition on the 2nd engine, chances are that at least on the first flushes it didnt clean them if it was clogged
If you live in the USA get a a 12oz bottle or 1 gallon jug of Schaeffers 131. It is officaly sold as a fuel additive but has for the past 30 years listed an engine purge on the back of the bottle. Start with 1oz per quart of oil 500 to 800 miles before you change the oil. After the first one next time do 2oz per quart 1000 miles before oil change. I have gone as high as 4oz per quart in really dirty engines. Never used it in badly sludged engines but have been using it for 20+ years. Works great on used Toyota's and European cars that have had 10,000 mile oil changes and are full of thick heavy varnish. Normaly the first flush will remove 50% of the varnish to the naked eye. Once you have it clean it is easy to put 4oz in it once a year or every other year to keep it clean.
So I my engine takes ~4L of engine oil, I throw in 8oz of the stuff into the engine oil?
I have used Schaeffers full synthetic in all my cars. Great products, my current daily has almost 157k miles on it and runs perfect, internals perfectly clean with only one change of Mobil 1 synthetic just because I couldn't get Schaeffers. Going to Lubrication Engineers oil next.
Drain 1qt, add 2pt diesel 1c methanol, 1c ammonia. Ammonia is a great emulsifier but it is not miscible with oil but it is with methanol. Methanol is also missable with oil. Use this on the first flush, let run at idle for 30 minutes, allow to drain for 20 minutes remove the oil cap when you do so that any residual ammonia vapor can escape. Second flush add one quart of diesel to the oil, let it run for at least 20 minutes then drain and remove your oil filter and put a new one on. There will not be any sludge left. It will look like you steam cleaned it. Nothing but shiny metal.
Another cheap solution that gets the same results but takes longer... At one quart of transmission fluid 300 mi before your oil change. Transmission fluid has detergents that do the same thing but it's weaker and takes longer in addition transmission fluid is hydraulic oil and will emulsify sludge but again it takes longer.
Both of these are great solutions that don't cost that much and work as well if not better than seafoams and over the counter engine flushes.
Cool story bro
Technically, sludge is just broken down oil, and gasoline is very effective at breaking down oil, so you could basically do an oil change using gasoline, let it sit a few hours, take out the ignition relay so you can crank the engine without it starting, crank it very briefly just to move everything around, put the ignition relay back in, then do a proper oil change with oil.
Methanol and gasoline are both capable of making an explosive vapour from inside the engine. It then goes out the breather pipe and if you unlucky, in the to engine to get burned.
Then you have either
A backfire
A runaway engine
An explosion
@@theairstig9164 Pretty rare on a gas engine isn't it? I think way more likely with a turbo, or with a diesel engine where a failure can lead to oil pouring into the combustion chamber, where even if you shut off the fuel flow, oil keeps pouring in so it keeps escalating, since those engines ignite the diesel solely by pressure, and since that works even better on oil.
Put a half a pint of diesel fuel in the engine sump/oil pan with the existing engine oil. Run the engine at a fast idle for 20 minutes. Drain the oil and renew the oil and filter.
Works for both petrol and diesel engines. Particularly good for engines with hydraulic lifters.
ATF is a better substitute
Please excuse my lack of knowledge on this, but what does this do? Deep clean?
This is a very old mechanics way to do it. It works amazingly well. BUT people reading this...
don't drive the car.. idle on the spot.
@@steveblackbird Lol, I'm an old mechanic.
Isn't it dangerous for seals?
I've seen people do this engine flush and break stuff loose and ruin the engine. sometimes it takes that stuff awhile to work and everything breaks free and you don't know it until the bearings are scored,and the lifters are plugged! You gotta remember alot of people dont change their oil ever,it happens more than you think ,people lie about it for some reason? then you buy the piece of crap vehicle and try to run this stuff in there and kaboom!
It’s true there’s nothing wrong with buildup happily living forever built up somewhere in an engine. 😂
@@fastinradfordable Sometimes it is the gunk that stops the engine from leaking. Once you remove the gunk, all hells break loose, leaks everywhere. And if you do engine oil maintainance according to schedule, there is no need to flush it. An engine is not a toilet, you don't always have to flush it.
@@fleurdewin7958 at least then you know you need to take care of the engine. If sludge covers a leak then it means it's already terribly bad.
I've been flushing my old engines every time I changed the oil - maybe beside my brand new car, since there the engine was clean and I manage to keep it clean by frequent oil changes. Nothing ever broke down. Bah, I even flushed one of my diesel engines with diesel fuel (a few rounds of it) and it's still fine.
I guess that flushing an engine that is literally all gunked up due to running the same oil for a few years and tens of thousands of miles is where the bad stuff might happen. If you have one like that, it's better to either leave it as is until it really breaks down, or disassemble it completely and clean the parts manually if you're into it.
Really ? Every second hand car I’ve ever looked at has allegedly had oil and all filters changed religiously at 10k regardless of what the book says 😂
I was having VVT lifter check engine codes in my honda and I read online clogged oil galleries were a likely culprit. I bought a bottle of seafoam, engine flush and some diesel + new leftover oil from previous changes, I let it run a good hour and occasionally revved the engine. The gunk that came out was black, and wouldn't you know it after clearing the code it hasn't came back in 4 months of daily driving.
Do they have an endless supply of ladas?
I think they have a farm where they grow ladas
They were a very very common car.
Like looking for an old f150 or Chevy 1500 in the US, lots of people (especially in rural areas) have one (or many) parked in the back yard all rusted out, or in a barn.
@@volvo09 A better comparison would be the ford model T which was ubiquitous due to fords monopoly at the time. lada also had a monopoly due to the political structure of the ussr.
There are plenty still to find and abuse, no worries
That's a good thing.
The USSR made a lot of those
Bearing wear, before and after would be interesting too.... flushing all particles loose will also make it into the bearings, oil filter will not catch it all.
you just shown that engine flushes are useless when oil changed in reasonable intervals. very informative and entertaining video
Yes, but in case you didn't, 12:00.
Seigei's job is what a mechanic's hell is all about, over and over again, oil changes for eternity
Why is it hell?
@@davidlittle611 because most mechanics are flat rate and oil changes usually pay .3 of an hour
Lol. Doing continuous oil changes for eternity. 😅
Real hell is doing endless tire changes.
@@1marcelfilms I worked flat rate for years and I have to agree that oil and tire work doesn't pay the bills. OTOH, it does give you an opportunity to look at other things and that's where the gravy is. Shocks and brakes are dirty work, but they usually pay well.
In Australia we found a trick with the Buick 3800/Ecotec V6 ,
Adding a bottle of "sticky lifter" treatment to the engine and leaving it in there for 2 weeks then flushing it out makes it like new again.
I have done this to a few cars and they are still going strong.
I'd be scared to leave it for 2 weeks in there with no engine movement.
@@leduard920 Sorry yes it is driven daily or about 5-10 hours drive.
@@maxgood42 goooddd daaayum, and it hasn't exploded yet??
@@leduard920 like I said I've done this to several cars now and it works a treat.
@@maxgood42 What precisely is this stuff you use mate?
An inspection of rod and main bearings BEFOR AND AFTER the test would be great.
All that crap running on them, I bet it was polished or even scratched.
Yeah ,they don't think so look fine as clean the engine. Better to use Valvoline clean and repair oil. Is just like a normal motor oil but slowly brake down the sludge.
@@laszloszell8753 except you can not find it everywhere, I wanted to buy it in Croatia but no luck.
yep heard it said before it's not always a good idea to use engine flush on a higher milage engine that's never had any or you can suddenly find your self with a worn out knocking engine as it removes a coating that has built up keeping things quiet & once it's flushed out everything is rattling
I did 20 engine flushes on my old racebike. Every time my oil stayed like new for almost 1000km. A good flush has additives that protect the engine while doing its thing
This was a much needed video for me as well as others I’m sure. As always your videos are incredibly in depth and well made, similar to another great testing channel Project Farm. Thank you for all your hard work
Please try running diesel fuel only to flush motor. No engine oil, just pure diesel. It works like magic
I wouldn't say magic but it helps! marvels mystery oil helps too!
Kerosene works great!
Blend gasoline kerosine diesel and ethanol. That should do it.
@@hdlivemodelsif diesel works, it makes sense kerosene works too. Very similar makeup as diesel, to the point that most mechanical diesel engines will run on kerosene
@@TheMrDarius Yeah i heard a guy say its the best for cleaning a diesel engine.
my buddy would use diesel. he would drain the oil, top it off with diesel, run the engine for about 5 minutes, drain and change the filter, then repeat the process a couple more times before installing fresh oil and a new filter. he swore by it.
as for myself, I change the oil and filter religiously. probably more frequently than is truly necessary.
diesel as oil? hmmmm
@@GewelReal he would use the diesel just to clean the engine, then fill with a good quality oil and new filter.
I used the engine oil cleaner from Liqui Moly when i bought my Honda Civic.
I filled it in the oil and let the car run for 200 kilometers (not pushing it to hard)
I then drained all the oil and some insanely disgusting stuff came out. Then i filled in the new oil and the car was running much smoother and better.
I also added an oil additive for even less resistance.
After that i also used Liqui Moly injector cleaner for the gasoline and after it ran thrue, i tank normal gasoline like always.
I uploaded some acceleration videos on another channel and people doubt that the car was stock, because it was running so incredibly good.
Would be even better if u put in new oil, let it run for another 200km and then change the oil again, to get really everything nasty out of the engine.
Try Motorkote
The best engine cleaner is a cup of diesel when it’s hot and let it idle for a hour. It will flush out a lot of junk and doesn’t cost anything.
Nobody thought a Civic was modified because of an engine flush.
@@joels7605 Yeah, plus the video he made doesn't even exist on his channel - so that was just a straight up lie.
@@linuxguy1199 I changed the transmission fluid in my pickup truck and then I won the Indy 500. Then everybody clapped.
The cleaning fluid is picking up sludge from the bottom of the oil pan, I would suggest.
These guys do the kind of things others are scared to do. Creativity at its best.
Yepp, brave enough to do this process with these worthless junk cars.
Very brave team. ;-)
@@flycorvus not all daily drivers are created equal.
Had an engine I was going to replace because is was going through 1 gt of oil for every hr driving, triple that when towing. Did a last attempt to fix it by replacing engine oil with transmission fluid and ran it lightly fro about 100-200 miles and changed oil like usual. After I changed the oil it hasn't used a drop of oil in between normal oil changes. Don't need to waste money or flush because ATF is high detergent, is cheap and doesn't harm seals etc
more oil used than the car is worth
Love this channel. Russian, American, makes no difference we are all shade tree mechanics with the basics used just like these guys do. I just love the clutter around the shop...looks like A REAL SHOP!
Try diesel fuel next mixed with some oil in the crankcase to clean sludge
interesting. please try
Does work
Been there done that.
Nothing more than a very thin flush that can ruin your bearings easily.
Only advantage the oil will run out the plug faster and less will be left in the engine so fresh oil will look cleaner for longer.
Removing build up on the oil rings, it does nothing.
I feel like if there was a way to run a gallon or two of the cleaner through the engine on a continuous circuit, without running the engine. If you were able to do it for 6-8 hours. Would that leave it squeaky clean? Then add oil and run the engine as normal. I only suggest because I've heard old timers talk about filling an engine completely up with diesel or tranny fluid. Let it sit for a few days then drain.. In theory seems like it would clean out gunk with the right fluid.
@@no-damn-alias my buddy would use diesel and totally swore by it. but your take is interesting.
what do you suggest?
You guys are a trip every time it's something just stupid and I love it !
These guys single handedly keep the flush company in business
Great channel. Try using the second flush juice on the first engine, see if anything can still come out.
I can't believe they didn't shake any of those bottles of flush. there was obviously a thick white portion that has settled to the bottom of each bottle.
I thought that was foam
@@KK001 I don't think so because it is completely opaque, while the liquid is clear.
i was thinking that powder or whatever may also be the black sediment in the final result. if it's a fine enough powder to make it thru the oil filter it could possibly be, just absorbed/coated with something or just burned
i do the same now😂 for for sensitive modern engines, i mix fresh oil with 2l of diesel. works like a charm. diesel is a very good cleaner.
Bought some used fleet vehicles years ago (Chevy Astro Vans) and the inside of the oil cap showed crud build up. Fast forward to around 200,000 miles and needing intake gaskets. We found them all spotless internally. First company used Wolf's Head and we used Penzoil. Did the same with my 64 Chevy and 5 years later I did an oil pan gasket.... spotless inside! Whatever they put in Penzoil seems to work!
Love this channel.And you guys think like a great mechanic. Engine flush, have to add a couple .1 automatic transmission fluid ,2 kerosene.,3 Marvel mystery oil.
I can imagine it cleaned the oil pan out mostly, I bet that was caked in old oil, would have been nice to see before and after of that.
12:34 Finally I can find out if this will work? Love your channel. I went to have a look at a car for my son and it was dirtier inside the rocker cover than the car you are working on! Cheers from Australia 👍
I stopped adding oil additives and cleaners etc. after some stuff possibly made my last car knock but this makes me almost want to use a cleaner atleast every so often.. Awesome Experiment..
What stuff made it knock?
Easy way is to not let it sludge up in the first place
So don't do things like let BMW decide to not change your oil at 12-18mo/15000km services like I saw numerous times in the service books of E63 6 series I was looking at earlier this year
if a liquid made your engine knock, then you've clearly not taken care of it
@@greebjDear gods.. 15,000km is about 4,000km more than I'd ever push an oil change (about 11,200 tops) and in a BMW... Damn they really are trying to ensure your engine breaks and you have to either blow money on repairs or a new BMW.
I have to rely on the translation to understand the audio, yet it doesnt downgrade the content at all. Well done sir.
An interesting experiment would be using a couple of oil changes using a thinner 0W20 oil, and check it detergent effect. Flushing products could leave residue.
Better to use engine flush than wrong oil grade. Engine flush is designed to coat the metal with protective anti-wear layer.
@@DashCamSerbia The issue with engine flush additives, it's that they can lower the lubricity of the oil, get the oil pick up tube clogged, and obstruct some sensitive passages as with variable timing. Using thinner oil would be a less aggressive engine flush.
@@DashCamSerbia Add to that potential issues to the rubbers using flushing products.
@@RogerM88 That is a myth. They disolve carbon an enamel, they dont loosen up big chunks. And if your engine already has a lot of carbon buildup and sludge, be sure that all those small oil channels are already partially clogged. And engine flush will help with that.
Using oil that was not intended for the engine is much mush worse. The eninge is designed to have desired oil presure by having the certain diameter of the oil passages and the oil pump flow, which is direcly tied to the oil viscosity. If you change the oil viscosity, you are changing everything. The oil presure, the oil flow rate, the film strenght,...
@@RogerM88 Dude, this is not the middle ages. Engine fluses are designed to be safe to rubber. They are evne safe for belt-in-oil systems.
Great video! I’m not sure what brand flush they are using, but it’s interesting to watch a video like this where there is no outside influence from a sponsor.
an old mechanic told me ATF works good because of the detergents in it, I occasionally add 1/2 to 1 quart before oil change, seems to work. no adverse effects after 10 years owning this vehicle and it stays clean.
Using good synthetic and changing it on time does as well, but takes longer. Bought a FWD GM with a 3.5L that had 85k miles but less than stellar maintenance that was kinda grimy inside and ran Mobile 1 because it’s what I usually have on hand. After a year or so I finally got tired of listening to the valve tap that it had since I bought it and opened it up to put new lifters in and damn it was completely spotless inside. Any traces of sludge were gone and it was immaculate inside, so if it’s not too bad just doing proactive oil changes will clean it out. Would have been nice to see how far it would have gone but at 170k miles the transmission ended up loosing a gear.
@@mysock351C Yep, nothing beats regular, on-time changes with a good quality oil. Far better than getting to a stage of wanting to use an engine flush. People fail to understand that engine oils are blended with an additive and detergent package that still allows the engine oil to be a good lubricant. The engine flushes are harsh detergents that are more likely to do damage than keep the oil lubricating like it is supposed to be doing. Your approach is far better.
I always top up with ATF inbetween oil changes.
Ich benutze auch gelegentlich ATF zum reinigen, es funktioniert ganz okay. Bin es sogar schon versuchshalber pur gefahren über Wochen.
Yep, good o' transmission fluid. Done that for years
I've evolved to adding Sea Foam a few days before changing the oil. Have 480k on my 08 Chevy Express 2500 work van. Pulled the pan & valve covers for leaking gaskets, and it was spotless inside
That looks like the inside of my VMAX1200. I bought it in Thailand, trusted the seller when I shouldn't have. The engine looked like that, and the tank, carbs and entire fuel system were full of rust. The bloke I sold it to had the time and resources and tools to do it justice properly. I want another one.
Hang a 55 gallon drum of engine flush above the engine. Install a hose to the valve cover and secure tightly. Start the engine and warm up. Open the drum of engine flush and remove the drain plug simultaneously. Stop the engine when drain flow stops. Replace drain plug. Fill with oil and change filter.
You'd have to limit the flow some. You'd be amaze at how quickly 55 gallons will pass through an engine block... Plus it won't reach all spots since the oil pump and what not is in the pan.
Great job. What i suggest would be interesting is to perform a cylinder combustion pressure before and after and see if there is any difference
If you have a sludgy engine, your best bet is to keep up regular oil changes and run it until it breaks. You want to keep all that sludge right where it's at: Separate from the engine oil and out of the bearings and moving parts. When you flush sludge, you break it up and send it all over the engine, creating countless opportunities for it to get into bearings and other moving parts, shortening the life of the engine. LEAVE SLUDGE WHERE IT IS... or just rebuild your engine!
Wouldn't this depend on how well the flush atomizes the sludge?
@@jamahlrawls3520 I believe you may have a misunderstanding of the definition of the word "atomize," as it does not apply here. No atomization occurrs in the crancase of a gasoline engine.
Generally I would agree with you but frankly, if you have visible sludge from neglect, if you just pulled the heads and the oil pan, give them a good bath in the parts cleaner, then reinstall, you could run cleaner through it with no problem to get the rest of the junk out. Much cheaper and less involved with rebuilding the thing.
I do agree with the run-it-until-it-breaks mantra when dealing with neglected cars but if you have a car you really enjoy like a good Toyota or Honda then I might invest more time into it. I had a 96 Cherokee that was neglected (got for $500) and looked pretty crappy but once I got it up and running I really liked having it over my Caddy
@@Chris-cv4tt Cue 80's rock band Europe - Cherokee!!!!
I got an engine that was very "Sludge-y." Flushed it 3 times with a combo of ATF & oil, then kerosene and ATF. Fresh filter every time, cleaned the oil pump pick up, and then did the oil change in under 1K miles. Sold that old Dart 20 over 20 years ago, and the guy still has that car running around- it's more of a toy, but it is still going
Another amazing video by Garage 54!!!!
One thing you should try, fill an engine up to the brim with diesel, and let it sit, don't run it (diesel isn't thick enough), or at most spin it off the starter with no spark plugs in so there's no load.
Love the robustness of those LADA engines. You can put 5kg of sht in it and it will still have full power output.
Because the design is older and the engine is simple, the tolerances in the engine are not small and thats why jt can withstand these torture
And because of that it doesn't have to work that well to reach "full power"
It's garbage lol
lada always running, always half broken, but never dead
Yes, the full 50 hp lol
When I was a kid, my grandfather filled an engine with diesel ran it for a little bit and flushed. It took the valve covers off again. It was clean.
Let's not forget that motor oil has detergents in it as well
Unless you use low grade oil and neglect it
@@jakkbatt4711 I was saying that because they're doing an oil change Everytime so even without the cleaner ,the oil will help
That's why I use engine flush, I reckon the detergent effect wears off as it's likely volatile. So, by the end of your cycle, you will have deposits, putting in new oil will bring that back in suspension until the detergent is neutralized. You could be stuck in a loop that keeps the sludge in the engine.
The flush makes the old oil detergent again, so the sludge goes out with the oil.
What I would have like to have seen was after the first 4 flushes of the first one - pull the valve cover and examine it. Then try flushing it with oil and the little additive bottle and see if starts coming out dirty again. The little additive bottle is some serious detergent. - but it was cleaning grime from the engine - not "sludge". It was doing a nice job of it. The only issue is that the solvents in the second cleaner can be really hard on the rubber gaskets and the plastic slides for the timing chain. The inside of the engine is clean - but the valve seals and all the gaskets that keep oil inside the engine start leaking because the solvents have eaten away and hardened the gaskets.
Sponsored by the people who make the little bottles of engine cleaner. The big silver bottle folks refused to pay up, hence no free advertising for you, Ivan.
Since the products were all Russian and most of us here are American, I don’t think it matters. Just an interesting demonstration of the difference between engine cleaning additives.
yea, Im guessing the 'flushing oil' is just oil? which showed no more 'sludge' was coming out with the oil, or they didnt run it long enough to do so. The detergent would obviously dissolve what the oil could/had not. But thats the thing, If the oil wasnt being contaminated and draining as nearly new. Id say your all good. If anything, use a detergent once just to address the oil galleries, then couple oil flushes and itd be more than sufficient.....
@@JDARJISJ Hes referring to the fact they removed the labels on the 5qt jugs, but didnt cover the cans. They never hide brands so far as Ive noticed. Im sure they are superstars in RU. Of course they would be locally sponsored.
Showing a brand name and saying it is no good might not be a good idea in some places. Maybe that is why the flush oil's name is not shown.
@@JJSmith1100 maybe, Im pretty sure it was just reg oil and they were comparing flushing with just oil and filter vs using an additive...
I had an LS in an Escalade a guy sold me found out later he did not change his oil. Drained it. Filled full of diesel fuel. Idle it for 15 minutes or so. Drained. Filled it about 2/3 to 3/4 of oil, the rest diesel. Drove it for a few hundred miles. Drained. Filled with oil. It ran okay after that. I’ve added some ATF fluid as well a bit before an oil change to clean it up.
Will the barrel clean it? Sure, so long as you immerse the entire engine in the barrel.
I would love to see similar test to compare oil flush vs fuel additives to see which one cleans piston rings and oil rings better. Of course, such a test would require a lot more work because getting a view of the piston rings requires full engine teardown.
Oh boy garage 54 is cooking a lot of good stuff
I have bought several vehicles very cheaply due to having a bad engine. All these were due to no oil changes (literally one of the previous owners told me you never have to change oil, just keep adding as needed) or not enough changes. My fix was never an engine flush, I just did multiple oil changes and filters until the bad noises diminished or minimized. The engines were still dirty but not so bad the lifters, etc. made any terrible sounds. Then with fresh oil and filter I used the vehicle but changed the oil after 200-300 miles and next time 500-600 extending the miles continuously until you get to the maximum mile interval. However if the oil was not better than the last change I would not increase the miles.
should try using diesel instead. i always use it to clean old auto parts.
Mixing it with oil? In what proportion?
Just diesel, let it idle 20 min., drain it, repeat it few times, all the sludge will be gone, and it will not hurt the engine, as long as you don't drive it while doing so, just idle!
@@milollldo not ever give mechanical advice again
@@dietznutz1 It has been tested on YT with measurements before and after. As far as I remember, bloke had flushed 7 times with pure diesel until it came out crystal clear. Then stripped again and measured and no damage was noted.
@@ukiduki Now try that on a expensive engine... bet you will never
I wonder how much of a difference it would make to pull the oil pan and clean it out before starting. If the engine looks that bad, I’m sure there’s a lot of sludge in the pan that could be removed, making the flushes much more effective. Still interesting to see, thank you for sharing.
Solid!
Top KEK!
Peace be with you.
I love this kind of before and after. Keep up the great work guys!
Super educational. Thx guys!!!!👍🏾👍🏾
You can put Marvel Mystery Oil in the engine and drive it a short time. That stuff is amazing
I'm Arab and i love Russian people 🇷🇺❤️
اسال الله ان يحشرك معهم
@@zqx7 اذا حشرني معهم و كنت في النار مثلا هل ستسعد انت ان اخاك المسلم في النار؟ اهنت عليك و قد اوصاك بي خيرا الحبيب المصطفى؟
@@mohamedabadila انا ما جبت شي من عندي ...
عن أنس بن مالك قال: جاء رجل إلى رسول الله صلى الله عليه وسلم فقال: يا رسول الله متى الساعة؟ قال: وما أعددت للساعة؟ قال: حب الله ورسوله، قال: فإنك مع من أحببت، قال أنس: فما فرحنا بعد الإسلام فرحا أشد من قول النبي صلى الله عليه وسلم: فإنك مع من أحببت. قال أنس: فأنا أحب الله ورسوله وأبا بكر وعمر، فأرجو أن أكون معهم، وإن لم أعمل بأعمالهم .
طبعا ما تعرف ان الروس ابادو اخوننا في سوريا صح ؟ ولا انت حافظ احاديث معينه كاليهودي يأخذ من الدين ما يريد ويرمي ما يريد !!
@@zqx7 ما قلته مجاملة و ما حصل في سوريا ليس مسؤول عنه كل روسي
@@zqx7 طبعا انا مسلم احب اخوتي المسلمين لكن تصريحي سياسي اكثر من كونه شعور في قلبي، دع عنك السطحية و افهم القصد
Please continue doing what you do the best. Hat down guys 👏👏👏 The best channel for people that want to self repair their cars 👏 Great video - superb ideas 😁
This guy is one cool SOB! He’s got a great channel it’s entertaining and his experiments are fun to watch
Would love to see you guys take an old filthy car and do a complete
detailing job. Clean the engine compartment and engine, and the interior
and exterior!
That would also make a pretty amazing video!..👍👍
Love this channel.
Anything you post . Will give thumps up 👍
Been there. ...
.
No words
God bless mick Australia 🇦🇺 🙏
If you try a similar experiment in the future, try using a liter of Automatic Transmission Fluid with each oil change.
Seeing that sludge on the bottom makes me think to filter out what you drain and reuse the oil for more flushes. Would save some money this way.
Impressed with level consistency on sample bottles.
Amazing video, BUT, I have a controversial thought: Isnt it WORSE to make the burned deposits LOOSE and let them swim in the oil? The main purpose of the oil is lubrication. As soon as you free the deposits, the oil changes into an abrasive fluid. The real test would be to do 1 round of sea foam, then drain the seafoam affected dirty oil with loose perticles out, pour in some new oil WITHOUT seafoam, let it run for an hour, and THEN flush that oil to see the condition of it. My hypothesis is, that this oil would be MUCH dirtier than optimal - becasue you have no chance of draining all the seafom with your first drain. ANd now imagine, this "fresh oil poured after seafoam cleaning" is THE oil that most people would run for another 10k or 20k kilometers....so...if THAT oil is dirty and full of particles.....you will actually casue your engine to wear horribly more compared to a situation where you did not use any sea foam at all. THe gunk in the oil pan, or deposits burned hard to your valve cover, are less harmfull when they stay where they are, compared to making them loose from the surface and let them transform your engine lubricant (oil) into an engine abrasive (oil with loose deposits). I think that after this, if I would efer used sea foam like product to clean the engine, I would then proceed to make another couple flushes with clean oil without seafoam antil the oil that is drained starts to look so clean like the like the one drained from Lada 1.... anybody agrees with me?
probably do a 1 flush after seafoam with a clean cheap oil to be honest
Many years ago I had a dummy boss ask me to clean up a Mazda 1.8 liter. It was extremely dirty and crusty busty but low mileage. He asked me to pour diesel into oil. I warned him and advised him he shouldn't. well he got upset w me so I said (OKAY). the sludge and dried carbon all let go at once. Customer bought and drove car maybe 4 miles then a squeal and it stopped. tow truck and diagnostic. camshafts had solid seized up do to oil pump sump being like 95% clogged. he made me remove cams and pan. clean. polish. put back together and send it. laugh my asssss off!!! I left that used car lot directly after. That guy was bonkers. Moral of story. Change oil at regular intervals.
I’m amazed at how interested I am watching these guys do the same thing over and over lol
Thank you Garage 54!! When I would get a dirty engine I would pour gas/petrol all the way up to the filler cap, then leave it for about a week. After that, drain without starting the engine, then put used oil in it. Run for 30 min, then drain. Put more used oil in, run again, then drain. Then try new oil and filter, see what it looks like. Maybe keep going, or stop if clean. Works really well! Just do not start engine with just gas/petrol!!
A quart of transmission oil ran with your regular oil for a couple hundred miles cleans things up nicely.
To see how effective the first flush system is, give that first engine a 5th treatment with the second system and you'll see if it brings more out, or if the second flush just works slower or had more to deal with in the second engine.
I love this Channel I’ve been here since the beginning when you had 10k followers.
I can’t escape these guys 😂 had found them on my suggested years ago and loved it so I subscribed lately I’ve been using another account and somehow they are right back in me suggested 😂
I have an idea for an interesting episode? What if you strap 3x airbags in the front bumper and 3 in the rear bumper, wonder how that would protect the car against damage in an accident?
To be fair, you can probably obtain the same results much quicker by removing the oil pan and truly emptying it (so that it is just the sludge that's darkening the new oil).
I recently changed my oil pan's gasket, and man, I didn't expect it to be so much oil left inside (almost a liter, and I'm talking about a small 1.4 gasoline engine).
I Love This Channel and These Guys. Every day i Hope for 200 new Videos 😂😂😂😂 i Consume This Channel like a Drug ❤
By the way i watched ALL Videos in 2 Months as i was sick 😂
Look how filthy the oil going in is at 6:34. Just drop the oil pan pull off the rocker cover spray everything inside with easy off oven cleaner let it sit for an hours then hose the engine out with a garden hose, leave to dry then put the pan on oil all the rockers put on the cover and fill the crank case. Thats how to flush an engine. Been doing it for years.
Using cooking oil is going viral in Indonesia. In fact, cooking oil is heat resistant and friction resistant for daily use in engines and can dissolve engine sludge.
my dad bought a used car with a straight many years ago. He filled it to the top with diesel fuel and let it set overnight. Drained it then filled it again. Let it drain for 24 hours and put oil and a new filter on it. Lots of sludge came out of it. People were probably using non-detergent oil in it.
I use 2 quarts 5w20 , 1 quart atf and 1 can of seafoam when I need to clean out an engine. Works great , never damaged 1 engine
If you don’t drop the pan after you have now just clogged your pick up tube. The best way is to remove the pan entirely and thoroughly clean/scrape all the sludge out or use gas in a plastic bottle and a parts washer brush and flush it through the drain holes on the head through the block and out the bottom with the pan and windage tray and pick up tube removed it will have the best chance of living. Also use good oil for its detergents and cleaning property’s. Take the one of the cam caps off first if the cam bearing is chewed up it might not be worth the time.
ATF Type F. One quart added and driven 1000 miles will do wonders. Up the interval to every 2k miles and eventually it gets very clean.
That was impressive! But I would have liked to have seen the whole engine apart to see how good of a job the flushing did!
Thank you so much for this level of hard work and knowledge ♥️
When you remove the oil drain plug you should attach a piece of garden hose or something to keep your fingers clean and cool.
Do not use engine flush on older engines with turbos installed, unless you have consistently flushed the engine from new. Reason being, a lot of the sludge and build up over time actually helps create seals and take up gaps within the engine. Quite common for turbos to fail after an engine flush, especially with chemical additives. 👍🏼
If you mix brake fluid is cheap and works, not good for painted parts like oil pan and valve cover. But works
a quart of ATF in the oil for about 30 miles usually cleans them up really well but then you need to do a couple oil changes to rinse it out
I would have loved to see the seafoam-type additive added to the first car after the normal oil flush had stopped working. That would have definitely shown a difference, as the next flush should have been darker.
For you fans of Seafoam, use same amount of charcoal lighting fluid and spend the money you saved on a good filter. A great quick flush is a pint of mineral spirits paint thinner, pour it in a cold engine and idle for 15 minutes. IDLE do NOT rev!.