@@nazzytpr that's an understatement for this channel. car abuse channel? car creativity channel? not sure what to call these guys as a car channel. but one thing i learned over the years is that, that simple lada engine has to be one of the toughest, most resilient engines ever built.
You should have poured the smaller bottle engine flush into the first engine at the end after using the 10 gallons of engine flush to confirm if it actually works. If it cleaned the engine after using 10 bottles of the other engine flush, then that would confirm it actually works
I understand what you're saying. Use one of the little bottles in the car they were using the big jugs of oil with cleaner in it. That definitely would have shown it was effective. Take care.
Great video on how engine flush can clean an engine. The big point that needs to be informed to others, that the sludged up engine surely has suffered excessive wear do to negligence. No matter how how clean you can get it back, the wear can't be restored without an a expensive rebuid. Prevention is cheaper than Correction. Change your oil often.
OMG I try to explain this to all my friends and acquaintances who seem to think oil changes aren't important or can be delayed 10k miles and then done and it'll be as if it was done on time. I keep telling them it's cheaper than a new engine.
They were a very very common car. Like looking for an old f150 or Chevy 1500 in the US, lots of people (especially in rural areas) have one (or many) parked in the back yard all rusted out, or in a barn.
@@volvo09 A better comparison would be the ford model T which was ubiquitous due to fords monopoly at the time. lada also had a monopoly due to the political structure of the ussr.
I took a magnum in a dodge...over 500,000 km. I ran sea foam engine cleaner throught the throttlebody C.F.I and placed one liter of transmission fluid in the oil in the crankcase ran it awhile an changed it out for synthetic oil after. That truck is now on 573,000 km without blue smoke or grey. Still runs well🙂Crazy stuff.
I added mineral ATF to new but cheap 5w30 oil as 1/7 quarts. Run the car on idle twice for 15 minutes the drove it the third time for 15 minutes with low load ! I does the job of cleaning internal parts of engine and piston rings freed. I haven't checked the catalytic converter yet 😮.. The engine was not as smooth as it is with just engine oil and some knocking I already having before was a bit Lauder during experiment
I bought a Toyota Celica but 130,000 miles on it transmission fluid never changed. My mechanic said that tranny is done it’s slipping. I change the fluid seven times in a row and drove it another 150 thousand miles perfectly. Easy to do with a drain plug
That's good my friend.. my 92 GTS said it was good without me asking.n I don't know why I never changed it but I did have shifting issues with my Pontiac Grand am and after changing the transmission filter and putting amsoil in it smoothed out.. I ran into another 20,000 mi and it Exploded😂
Been there done that. Nothing more than a very thin flush that can ruin your bearings easily. Only advantage the oil will run out the plug faster and less will be left in the engine so fresh oil will look cleaner for longer. Removing build up on the oil rings, it does nothing.
I feel like if there was a way to run a gallon or two of the cleaner through the engine on a continuous circuit, without running the engine. If you were able to do it for 6-8 hours. Would that leave it squeaky clean? Then add oil and run the engine as normal. I only suggest because I've heard old timers talk about filling an engine completely up with diesel or tranny fluid. Let it sit for a few days then drain.. In theory seems like it would clean out gunk with the right fluid.
Bought some used fleet vehicles years ago (Chevy Astro Vans) and the inside of the oil cap showed crud build up. Fast forward to around 200,000 miles and needing intake gaskets. We found them all spotless internally. First company used Wolf's Head and we used Penzoil. Did the same with my 64 Chevy and 5 years later I did an oil pan gasket.... spotless inside! Whatever they put in Penzoil seems to work!
I've seen people do this engine flush and break stuff loose and ruin the engine. sometimes it takes that stuff awhile to work and everything breaks free and you don't know it until the bearings are scored,and the lifters are plugged! You gotta remember alot of people dont change their oil ever,it happens more than you think ,people lie about it for some reason? then you buy the piece of crap vehicle and try to run this stuff in there and kaboom!
@@fastinradfordable Sometimes it is the gunk that stops the engine from leaking. Once you remove the gunk, all hells break loose, leaks everywhere. And if you do engine oil maintainance according to schedule, there is no need to flush it. An engine is not a toilet, you don't always have to flush it.
I've been flushing my old engines every time I changed the oil - maybe beside my brand new car, since there the engine was clean and I manage to keep it clean by frequent oil changes. Nothing ever broke down. Bah, I even flushed one of my diesel engines with diesel fuel (a few rounds of it) and it's still fine. I guess that flushing an engine that is literally all gunked up due to running the same oil for a few years and tens of thousands of miles is where the bad stuff might happen. If you have one like that, it's better to either leave it as is until it really breaks down, or disassemble it completely and clean the parts manually if you're into it.
If you have a sludgy engine, your best bet is to keep up regular oil changes and run it until it breaks. You want to keep all that sludge right where it's at: Separate from the engine oil and out of the bearings and moving parts. When you flush sludge, you break it up and send it all over the engine, creating countless opportunities for it to get into bearings and other moving parts, shortening the life of the engine. LEAVE SLUDGE WHERE IT IS... or just rebuild your engine!
@@jamahlrawls3520 I believe you may have a misunderstanding of the definition of the word "atomize," as it does not apply here. No atomization occurrs in the crancase of a gasoline engine.
@@Timcyprian Personally, I've had nothing but great experiences with Kerosene by simply filling the motor with roughly the same amount that I would use oil, and then idle the engine for up to 10 minutes. I wouldn't go past 10 minutes. Does wonders for cleaning filthy engines.
Yeah ,they don't think so look fine as clean the engine. Better to use Valvoline clean and repair oil. Is just like a normal motor oil but slowly brake down the sludge.
yep heard it said before it's not always a good idea to use engine flush on a higher milage engine that's never had any or you can suddenly find your self with a worn out knocking engine as it removes a coating that has built up keeping things quiet & once it's flushed out everything is rattling
I used the engine oil cleaner from Liqui Moly when i bought my Honda Civic. I filled it in the oil and let the car run for 200 kilometers (not pushing it to hard) I then drained all the oil and some insanely disgusting stuff came out. Then i filled in the new oil and the car was running much smoother and better. I also added an oil additive for even less resistance. After that i also used Liqui Moly injector cleaner for the gasoline and after it ran thrue, i tank normal gasoline like always. I uploaded some acceleration videos on another channel and people doubt that the car was stock, because it was running so incredibly good. Would be even better if u put in new oil, let it run for another 200km and then change the oil again, to get really everything nasty out of the engine.
@@hdlivemodelsif diesel works, it makes sense kerosene works too. Very similar makeup as diesel, to the point that most mechanical diesel engines will run on kerosene
In Australia we found a trick with the Buick 3800/Ecotec V6 , Adding a bottle of "sticky lifter" treatment to the engine and leaving it in there for 2 weeks then flushing it out makes it like new again. I have done this to a few cars and they are still going strong.
an old mechanic told me ATF works good because of the detergents in it, I occasionally add 1/2 to 1 quart before oil change, seems to work. no adverse effects after 10 years owning this vehicle and it stays clean.
Using good synthetic and changing it on time does as well, but takes longer. Bought a FWD GM with a 3.5L that had 85k miles but less than stellar maintenance that was kinda grimy inside and ran Mobile 1 because it’s what I usually have on hand. After a year or so I finally got tired of listening to the valve tap that it had since I bought it and opened it up to put new lifters in and damn it was completely spotless inside. Any traces of sludge were gone and it was immaculate inside, so if it’s not too bad just doing proactive oil changes will clean it out. Would have been nice to see how far it would have gone but at 170k miles the transmission ended up loosing a gear.
@@mysock351C Yep, nothing beats regular, on-time changes with a good quality oil. Far better than getting to a stage of wanting to use an engine flush. People fail to understand that engine oils are blended with an additive and detergent package that still allows the engine oil to be a good lubricant. The engine flushes are harsh detergents that are more likely to do damage than keep the oil lubricating like it is supposed to be doing. Your approach is far better.
Yep, good o' transmission fluid. Done that for years I've evolved to adding Sea Foam a few days before changing the oil. Have 480k on my 08 Chevy Express 2500 work van. Pulled the pan & valve covers for leaking gaskets, and it was spotless inside
Hang a 55 gallon drum of engine flush above the engine. Install a hose to the valve cover and secure tightly. Start the engine and warm up. Open the drum of engine flush and remove the drain plug simultaneously. Stop the engine when drain flow stops. Replace drain plug. Fill with oil and change filter.
You'd have to limit the flow some. You'd be amaze at how quickly 55 gallons will pass through an engine block... Plus it won't reach all spots since the oil pump and what not is in the pan.
my buddy would use diesel. he would drain the oil, top it off with diesel, run the engine for about 5 minutes, drain and change the filter, then repeat the process a couple more times before installing fresh oil and a new filter. he swore by it. as for myself, I change the oil and filter religiously. probably more frequently than is truly necessary.
I have an idea for an interesting episode? What if you strap 3x airbags in the front bumper and 3 in the rear bumper, wonder how that would protect the car against damage in an accident?
I would love to see similar test to compare oil flush vs fuel additives to see which one cleans piston rings and oil rings better. Of course, such a test would require a lot more work because getting a view of the piston rings requires full engine teardown.
Would love to see you guys take an old filthy car and do a complete detailing job. Clean the engine compartment and engine, and the interior and exterior! That would also make a pretty amazing video!..👍👍 Love this channel.
I had an LS in an Escalade a guy sold me found out later he did not change his oil. Drained it. Filled full of diesel fuel. Idle it for 15 minutes or so. Drained. Filled it about 2/3 to 3/4 of oil, the rest diesel. Drove it for a few hundred miles. Drained. Filled with oil. It ran okay after that. I’ve added some ATF fluid as well a bit before an oil change to clean it up.
Bearing wear, before and after would be interesting too.... flushing all particles loose will also make it into the bearings, oil filter will not catch it all.
If you live in the USA get a a 12oz bottle or 1 gallon jug of Schaeffers 131. It is officaly sold as a fuel additive but has for the past 30 years listed an engine purge on the back of the bottle. Start with 1oz per quart of oil 500 to 800 miles before you change the oil. After the first one next time do 2oz per quart 1000 miles before oil change. I have gone as high as 4oz per quart in really dirty engines. Never used it in badly sludged engines but have been using it for 20+ years. Works great on used Toyota's and European cars that have had 10,000 mile oil changes and are full of thick heavy varnish. Normaly the first flush will remove 50% of the varnish to the naked eye. Once you have it clean it is easy to put 4oz in it once a year or every other year to keep it clean.
We put acetone in our crankcase, after 2-3 minutes the distributor blew out and landed 10m away lol. The acetone turned to gasses that led to it exploding was very funny and very loud.
I put Acetone in an engine and B12 Chemtool which has a lot stronger solvents that Acetone 1 pint worth and never had any issue with anything exploding! Once it mixes with the oil it should just slowly burnoff the same way gasoline in the oil burns off. If anything would cause it to explode the regular gasoline that leaks into the oil past the rings would but it does not!
The only time I've used acetone was mixing 50/50 with atf for a cylinder soak for a seized engine. Remove plug fill cylinder and let sit overnight. Try turning by hand, and when it moves, you can bump with the starter to for 3 sec. bursts
An interesting experiment would be using a couple of oil changes using a thinner 0W20 oil, and check it detergent effect. Flushing products could leave residue.
@@DashCamSerbia The issue with engine flush additives, it's that they can lower the lubricity of the oil, get the oil pick up tube clogged, and obstruct some sensitive passages as with variable timing. Using thinner oil would be a less aggressive engine flush.
@@RogerM88 That is a myth. They disolve carbon an enamel, they dont loosen up big chunks. And if your engine already has a lot of carbon buildup and sludge, be sure that all those small oil channels are already partially clogged. And engine flush will help with that. Using oil that was not intended for the engine is much mush worse. The eninge is designed to have desired oil presure by having the certain diameter of the oil passages and the oil pump flow, which is direcly tied to the oil viscosity. If you change the oil viscosity, you are changing everything. The oil presure, the oil flow rate, the film strenght,...
was the liquid of the flush bottles clear first and then milky white when pouring in? if so you should probably shake the bottles first to mix it up again
I stopped adding oil additives and cleaners etc. after some stuff possibly made my last car knock but this makes me almost want to use a cleaner atleast every so often.. Awesome Experiment..
Easy way is to not let it sludge up in the first place So don't do things like let BMW decide to not change your oil at 12-18mo/15000km services like I saw numerous times in the service books of E63 6 series I was looking at earlier this year
@@greebjDear gods.. 15,000km is about 4,000km more than I'd ever push an oil change (about 11,200 tops) and in a BMW... Damn they really are trying to ensure your engine breaks and you have to either blow money on repairs or a new BMW.
I used Forte engine flush in the past to clean off the varnish residues on the valve train, it comes out absolutely clean. Not as polluted like this Lada engine, what has it been running? Mineral oil?
To be fair, you can probably obtain the same results much quicker by removing the oil pan and truly emptying it (so that it is just the sludge that's darkening the new oil). I recently changed my oil pan's gasket, and man, I didn't expect it to be so much oil left inside (almost a liter, and I'm talking about a small 1.4 gasoline engine).
I worked an auto repair for 10 years and I have service to at least 10,000 vehicles. I've pulled off a minimum of 100 valve covers. Sludging was extremely rare. Maybe a total of 10 vehicles in 10 years that had engine problems due to sludge. It was more likely to happen on engines that held a small quantity of oil and engines they used turbochargers. The last engine that it was pronto happening to would be an engine that had an exhaust pipe that ran next to it.
Sludge is rarely an issue, if anything it tends to hide issues because it plugs up leaks till it blows out. Older engine yeah I can see it being an issue because of the oil they used and the unleaded gas at one point (The lead acted as a lubricant)
One thing you should try, fill an engine up to the brim with diesel, and let it sit, don't run it (diesel isn't thick enough), or at most spin it off the starter with no spark plugs in so there's no load.
Had you triedd engine oil for diesels? This is a detergent oil. Run for a couple of days and it will strip most of the gludge out then change for new filter and oil. Only pprob is it may clog up the cat exhaust aand some seals may leak.
I was having VVT lifter check engine codes in my honda and I read online clogged oil galleries were a likely culprit. I bought a bottle of seafoam, engine flush and some diesel + new leftover oil from previous changes, I let it run a good hour and occasionally revved the engine. The gunk that came out was black, and wouldn't you know it after clearing the code it hasn't came back in 4 months of daily driving.
Here in indonesia we are using cooking oil to flush our engine.. and it works quite well, maybe you can make a video cleaning ur engine using cooking oil
how about pump solvent through the oiling system while turning the motor by hand or or with the starter (plugs out) and spray some kind of spray in they holes
I thought he was going to pour the small bottle in the other engine to show that it was better. After the 10 gallons of flush when it was showing clean...if he poured that small bottle in and it comes out black you would know that stuff is superior. Still I appreciate them doing this at all. That's a lot of money in oils and flushes.
I have not seen flushing oil in the USA in over 20 years maybe 30 years. When I lived in Germany 1979 to 1991 it was common. Back then it was a 20wt. oil.
You might be able to import a Lada, they are well over 25 years old (more like 40) but not sure if they'd be road legal even with grandfathering of safty issues.
The real question is did it improve the performance of the engine at all? A dyno pull/compression check at intervals along the way would’ve been great.
Drain 1qt, add 2pt diesel 1c methanol, 1c ammonia. Ammonia is a great emulsifier but it is not miscible with oil but it is with methanol. Methanol is also missable with oil. Use this on the first flush, let run at idle for 30 minutes, allow to drain for 20 minutes remove the oil cap when you do so that any residual ammonia vapor can escape. Second flush add one quart of diesel to the oil, let it run for at least 20 minutes then drain and remove your oil filter and put a new one on. There will not be any sludge left. It will look like you steam cleaned it. Nothing but shiny metal. Another cheap solution that gets the same results but takes longer... At one quart of transmission fluid 300 mi before your oil change. Transmission fluid has detergents that do the same thing but it's weaker and takes longer in addition transmission fluid is hydraulic oil and will emulsify sludge but again it takes longer. Both of these are great solutions that don't cost that much and work as well if not better than seafoams and over the counter engine flushes.
I wish they'd pulled the valve cover when the oil flush didn't show dirt being removed, to check the valve train cleanliness at that point, before continuing.
I have no idea how I got onto this Russian car maintenance channel.. But as a car maintenance lover.. I loved the video.
Bro same for me I love this fucking channel !!!
Not exactly a maintenance channel tho😂😂
It's garage 54. It's just basic men being men and trying shuff out.
This channel is awesome, been watching for years.
@@nazzytpr that's an understatement for this channel. car abuse channel? car creativity channel? not sure what to call these guys as a car channel. but one thing i learned over the years is that, that simple lada engine has to be one of the toughest, most resilient engines ever built.
You should have poured the smaller bottle engine flush into the first engine at the end after using the 10 gallons of engine flush to confirm if it actually works. If it cleaned the engine after using 10 bottles of the other engine flush, then that would confirm it actually works
This is what I was going to comment.
I was going to say the same thing. If it started cleaning where the flush gave up would be the ultimate proof.
@@jamesglavich1426 yep
Yep, I believe many of us were thinking the same thing. Seems like G54 dropped the ball on this one.
I understand what you're saying. Use one of the little bottles in the car they were using the big jugs of oil with cleaner in it. That definitely would have shown it was effective. Take care.
I wish you had opened each filter, to see how much of the filter media was plugged.
i wish they'd made a blanking plug so they didn't have to use up a bunch of good filters when a larger easier to inspect filter would have done nicely
@@manitoba-op4jx or a reusable filter, with screens to strain, like old stuff
i might get one for my car, to keep an eye on it's internal condition.
Oil pump wear would be immense also
Exactly!!!
Couldn’t agree more bro
Great video on how engine flush can clean an engine. The big point that needs to be informed to others, that the sludged up engine surely has suffered excessive wear do to negligence. No matter how how clean you can get it back, the wear can't be restored without an a expensive rebuid. Prevention is cheaper than Correction. Change your oil often.
OMG I try to explain this to all my friends and acquaintances who seem to think oil changes aren't important or can be delayed 10k miles and then done and it'll be as if it was done on time. I keep telling them it's cheaper than a new engine.
@@pilotlarsyeah ,change your engine oil on time ,you said well
@@pilotlarsyet we still have manufacturers who say engine oil will last up to 20k miles 😂
@tabishkhan2966 and that works as far as they're concerned because the engine blows up at 100k miles and they can sell you a new one or a new car.
7.5kkm on any higher performance motor.
Do they have an endless supply of ladas?
I think they have a farm where they grow ladas
They were a very very common car.
Like looking for an old f150 or Chevy 1500 in the US, lots of people (especially in rural areas) have one (or many) parked in the back yard all rusted out, or in a barn.
@@volvo09 A better comparison would be the ford model T which was ubiquitous due to fords monopoly at the time. lada also had a monopoly due to the political structure of the ussr.
There are plenty still to find and abuse, no worries
That's a good thing.
The USSR made a lot of those
If it can clean under the valve cover like that imagine how good its cleaning all the oil passages.
I took a magnum in a dodge...over 500,000 km. I ran sea foam engine cleaner throught the throttlebody C.F.I and placed one liter of transmission fluid in the oil in the crankcase ran it awhile an changed it out for synthetic oil after. That truck is now on 573,000 km without blue smoke or grey. Still runs well🙂Crazy stuff.
Cool story bro
@@mann_idonotreadreplies
😂😂😂😂
That was too much
used to do 1 qt of atf 500-800 miles before an oil change, engine seems pretty clean.
ATF works it is a detergent
I added mineral ATF to new but cheap 5w30 oil as 1/7 quarts. Run the car on idle twice for 15 minutes the drove it the third time for 15 minutes with low load !
I does the job of cleaning internal parts of engine and piston rings freed.
I haven't checked the catalytic converter yet 😮..
The engine was not as smooth as it is with just engine oil and some knocking I already having before was a bit Lauder during experiment
Seigei's job is what a mechanic's hell is all about, over and over again, oil changes for eternity
Why is it hell?
@@davidlittle611 because most mechanics are flat rate and oil changes usually pay .3 of an hour
Lol. Doing continuous oil changes for eternity. 😅
But in reality he has dream job for a mechanic, doing all these ridiculous projects and getting paid for it.
Real hell is doing endless tire changes.
Was hoping the pan would be removed prior to the first flush and after the last flush. To see the bottom end of the engine as well, before and after.
There is no point as there is less oil flow on the valvetrain, therefore the bottom end is a lot cleaner anyway
yep
I bought a Toyota Celica but 130,000 miles on it transmission fluid never changed. My mechanic said that tranny is done it’s slipping. I change the fluid seven times in a row and drove it another 150 thousand miles perfectly.
Easy to do with a drain plug
That's good my friend.. my 92 GTS said it was good without me asking.n I don't know why I never changed it but I did have shifting issues with my Pontiac Grand am and after changing the transmission filter and putting amsoil in it smoothed out.. I ran into another 20,000 mi and it Exploded😂
This really showed your question which was how much will this remove. It was obvious. Very good real information. Thanks.
Try diesel fuel next mixed with some oil in the crankcase to clean sludge
interesting. please try
Does work
Been there done that.
Nothing more than a very thin flush that can ruin your bearings easily.
Only advantage the oil will run out the plug faster and less will be left in the engine so fresh oil will look cleaner for longer.
Removing build up on the oil rings, it does nothing.
I feel like if there was a way to run a gallon or two of the cleaner through the engine on a continuous circuit, without running the engine. If you were able to do it for 6-8 hours. Would that leave it squeaky clean? Then add oil and run the engine as normal. I only suggest because I've heard old timers talk about filling an engine completely up with diesel or tranny fluid. Let it sit for a few days then drain.. In theory seems like it would clean out gunk with the right fluid.
@@no-damn-alias my buddy would use diesel and totally swore by it. but your take is interesting.
what do you suggest?
Bought some used fleet vehicles years ago (Chevy Astro Vans) and the inside of the oil cap showed crud build up. Fast forward to around 200,000 miles and needing intake gaskets. We found them all spotless internally. First company used Wolf's Head and we used Penzoil. Did the same with my 64 Chevy and 5 years later I did an oil pan gasket.... spotless inside! Whatever they put in Penzoil seems to work!
I've seen people do this engine flush and break stuff loose and ruin the engine. sometimes it takes that stuff awhile to work and everything breaks free and you don't know it until the bearings are scored,and the lifters are plugged! You gotta remember alot of people dont change their oil ever,it happens more than you think ,people lie about it for some reason? then you buy the piece of crap vehicle and try to run this stuff in there and kaboom!
It’s true there’s nothing wrong with buildup happily living forever built up somewhere in an engine. 😂
@@fastinradfordable Sometimes it is the gunk that stops the engine from leaking. Once you remove the gunk, all hells break loose, leaks everywhere. And if you do engine oil maintainance according to schedule, there is no need to flush it. An engine is not a toilet, you don't always have to flush it.
@@fleurdewin7958 at least then you know you need to take care of the engine. If sludge covers a leak then it means it's already terribly bad.
I've been flushing my old engines every time I changed the oil - maybe beside my brand new car, since there the engine was clean and I manage to keep it clean by frequent oil changes. Nothing ever broke down. Bah, I even flushed one of my diesel engines with diesel fuel (a few rounds of it) and it's still fine.
I guess that flushing an engine that is literally all gunked up due to running the same oil for a few years and tens of thousands of miles is where the bad stuff might happen. If you have one like that, it's better to either leave it as is until it really breaks down, or disassemble it completely and clean the parts manually if you're into it.
Really ? Every second hand car I’ve ever looked at has allegedly had oil and all filters changed religiously at 10k regardless of what the book says 😂
If you have a sludgy engine, your best bet is to keep up regular oil changes and run it until it breaks. You want to keep all that sludge right where it's at: Separate from the engine oil and out of the bearings and moving parts. When you flush sludge, you break it up and send it all over the engine, creating countless opportunities for it to get into bearings and other moving parts, shortening the life of the engine. LEAVE SLUDGE WHERE IT IS... or just rebuild your engine!
Wouldn't this depend on how well the flush atomizes the sludge?
@@jamahlrawls3520 I believe you may have a misunderstanding of the definition of the word "atomize," as it does not apply here. No atomization occurrs in the crancase of a gasoline engine.
When I was a kid, my grandfather filled an engine with diesel ran it for a little bit and flushed. It took the valve covers off again. It was clean.
That's what I still do today (if engine is really black inside).
I heard some people add some ATF to oil before change as it has more detergents and can remove some deposits too.
@@Onimalap I’ve heard the same works really good
Can I have the steps of using diesel flush?
@@Timcyprian Personally, I've had nothing but great experiences with Kerosene by simply filling the motor with roughly the same amount that I would use oil, and then idle the engine for up to 10 minutes. I wouldn't go past 10 minutes. Does wonders for cleaning filthy engines.
An inspection of rod and main bearings BEFOR AND AFTER the test would be great.
All that crap running on them, I bet it was polished or even scratched.
Yeah ,they don't think so look fine as clean the engine. Better to use Valvoline clean and repair oil. Is just like a normal motor oil but slowly brake down the sludge.
@@laszloszell8753 except you can not find it everywhere, I wanted to buy it in Croatia but no luck.
yep heard it said before it's not always a good idea to use engine flush on a higher milage engine that's never had any or you can suddenly find your self with a worn out knocking engine as it removes a coating that has built up keeping things quiet & once it's flushed out everything is rattling
I used the engine oil cleaner from Liqui Moly when i bought my Honda Civic.
I filled it in the oil and let the car run for 200 kilometers (not pushing it to hard)
I then drained all the oil and some insanely disgusting stuff came out. Then i filled in the new oil and the car was running much smoother and better.
I also added an oil additive for even less resistance.
After that i also used Liqui Moly injector cleaner for the gasoline and after it ran thrue, i tank normal gasoline like always.
I uploaded some acceleration videos on another channel and people doubt that the car was stock, because it was running so incredibly good.
Would be even better if u put in new oil, let it run for another 200km and then change the oil again, to get really everything nasty out of the engine.
Try Motorkote
The best engine cleaner is a cup of diesel when it’s hot and let it idle for a hour. It will flush out a lot of junk and doesn’t cost anything.
Nobody thought a Civic was modified because of an engine flush.
@@joels7605 Yeah, plus the video he made doesn't even exist on his channel - so that was just a straight up lie.
@@linuxguy1199 I changed the transmission fluid in my pickup truck and then I won the Indy 500. Then everybody clapped.
Please try running diesel fuel only to flush motor. No engine oil, just pure diesel. It works like magic
I wouldn't say magic but it helps! marvels mystery oil helps too!
Kerosene works great!
Blend gasoline kerosine diesel and ethanol. That should do it.
@@hdlivemodelsif diesel works, it makes sense kerosene works too. Very similar makeup as diesel, to the point that most mechanical diesel engines will run on kerosene
@@TheMrDarius Yeah i heard a guy say its the best for cleaning a diesel engine.
I love this kind of before and after. Keep up the great work guys!
Solid!
Top KEK!
Peace be with you.
Another amazing video by Garage 54!!!!
In Australia we found a trick with the Buick 3800/Ecotec V6 ,
Adding a bottle of "sticky lifter" treatment to the engine and leaving it in there for 2 weeks then flushing it out makes it like new again.
I have done this to a few cars and they are still going strong.
Super educational. Thx guys!!!!👍🏾👍🏾
Oh boy garage 54 is cooking a lot of good stuff
Found this channel from the thumb nail, glad I did, love this sort of thing
an old mechanic told me ATF works good because of the detergents in it, I occasionally add 1/2 to 1 quart before oil change, seems to work. no adverse effects after 10 years owning this vehicle and it stays clean.
Using good synthetic and changing it on time does as well, but takes longer. Bought a FWD GM with a 3.5L that had 85k miles but less than stellar maintenance that was kinda grimy inside and ran Mobile 1 because it’s what I usually have on hand. After a year or so I finally got tired of listening to the valve tap that it had since I bought it and opened it up to put new lifters in and damn it was completely spotless inside. Any traces of sludge were gone and it was immaculate inside, so if it’s not too bad just doing proactive oil changes will clean it out. Would have been nice to see how far it would have gone but at 170k miles the transmission ended up loosing a gear.
@@mysock351C Yep, nothing beats regular, on-time changes with a good quality oil. Far better than getting to a stage of wanting to use an engine flush. People fail to understand that engine oils are blended with an additive and detergent package that still allows the engine oil to be a good lubricant. The engine flushes are harsh detergents that are more likely to do damage than keep the oil lubricating like it is supposed to be doing. Your approach is far better.
I always top up with ATF inbetween oil changes.
Ich benutze auch gelegentlich ATF zum reinigen, es funktioniert ganz okay. Bin es sogar schon versuchshalber pur gefahren über Wochen.
Yep, good o' transmission fluid. Done that for years
I've evolved to adding Sea Foam a few days before changing the oil. Have 480k on my 08 Chevy Express 2500 work van. Pulled the pan & valve covers for leaking gaskets, and it was spotless inside
Great video as usual fellas
Seeing that sludge on the bottom makes me think to filter out what you drain and reuse the oil for more flushes. Would save some money this way.
Hang a 55 gallon drum of engine flush above the engine. Install a hose to the valve cover and secure tightly. Start the engine and warm up. Open the drum of engine flush and remove the drain plug simultaneously. Stop the engine when drain flow stops. Replace drain plug. Fill with oil and change filter.
You'd have to limit the flow some. You'd be amaze at how quickly 55 gallons will pass through an engine block... Plus it won't reach all spots since the oil pump and what not is in the pan.
my buddy would use diesel. he would drain the oil, top it off with diesel, run the engine for about 5 minutes, drain and change the filter, then repeat the process a couple more times before installing fresh oil and a new filter. he swore by it.
as for myself, I change the oil and filter religiously. probably more frequently than is truly necessary.
I have an idea for an interesting episode? What if you strap 3x airbags in the front bumper and 3 in the rear bumper, wonder how that would protect the car against damage in an accident?
“Pipe down”. Totally awesome!
Anything you post . Will give thumps up 👍
Been there. ...
.
No words
God bless mick Australia 🇦🇺 🙏
I would love to see similar test to compare oil flush vs fuel additives to see which one cleans piston rings and oil rings better. Of course, such a test would require a lot more work because getting a view of the piston rings requires full engine teardown.
Would love to see you guys take an old filthy car and do a complete
detailing job. Clean the engine compartment and engine, and the interior
and exterior!
That would also make a pretty amazing video!..👍👍
Love this channel.
I am impressed by how clean eveything got. I wonder how well transmission fluid will work (detergents),or kerosene (solvents).
I had an LS in an Escalade a guy sold me found out later he did not change his oil. Drained it. Filled full of diesel fuel. Idle it for 15 minutes or so. Drained. Filled it about 2/3 to 3/4 of oil, the rest diesel. Drove it for a few hundred miles. Drained. Filled with oil. It ran okay after that. I’ve added some ATF fluid as well a bit before an oil change to clean it up.
I can imagine it cleaned the oil pan out mostly, I bet that was caked in old oil, would have been nice to see before and after of that.
Bearing wear, before and after would be interesting too.... flushing all particles loose will also make it into the bearings, oil filter will not catch it all.
"everything is nice and filthy and its all good" hahahah i lost it
A quart of transmission oil ran with your regular oil for a couple hundred miles cleans things up nicely.
I luv this guy. “Do we have any left? Well put it in !
If you live in the USA get a a 12oz bottle or 1 gallon jug of Schaeffers 131. It is officaly sold as a fuel additive but has for the past 30 years listed an engine purge on the back of the bottle. Start with 1oz per quart of oil 500 to 800 miles before you change the oil. After the first one next time do 2oz per quart 1000 miles before oil change. I have gone as high as 4oz per quart in really dirty engines. Never used it in badly sludged engines but have been using it for 20+ years. Works great on used Toyota's and European cars that have had 10,000 mile oil changes and are full of thick heavy varnish. Normaly the first flush will remove 50% of the varnish to the naked eye. Once you have it clean it is easy to put 4oz in it once a year or every other year to keep it clean.
If you try a similar experiment in the future, try using a liter of Automatic Transmission Fluid with each oil change.
Nice job good info. Thanks😊
Thank you!
We put acetone in our crankcase, after 2-3 minutes the distributor blew out and landed 10m away lol. The acetone turned to gasses that led to it exploding was very funny and very loud.
LOL
I put Acetone in an engine and B12 Chemtool which has a lot stronger solvents that Acetone 1 pint worth and never had any issue with anything exploding! Once it mixes with the oil it should just slowly burnoff the same way gasoline in the oil burns off. If anything would cause it to explode the regular gasoline that leaks into the oil past the rings would but it does not!
Sounds like you had bigger issues than acetone vapor. If what you’re describing is true, why didn’t it blow up from gas vapor?
The only time I've used acetone was mixing 50/50 with atf for a cylinder soak for a seized engine. Remove plug fill cylinder and let sit overnight. Try turning by hand, and when it moves, you can bump with the starter to for 3 sec. bursts
always love this boris doing some experiment, NEVER EVER A CLICKBAIT.. :D
If you mix brake fluid is cheap and works, not good for painted parts like oil pan and valve cover. But works
An interesting experiment would be using a couple of oil changes using a thinner 0W20 oil, and check it detergent effect. Flushing products could leave residue.
Better to use engine flush than wrong oil grade. Engine flush is designed to coat the metal with protective anti-wear layer.
@@DashCamSerbia The issue with engine flush additives, it's that they can lower the lubricity of the oil, get the oil pick up tube clogged, and obstruct some sensitive passages as with variable timing. Using thinner oil would be a less aggressive engine flush.
@@DashCamSerbia Add to that potential issues to the rubbers using flushing products.
@@RogerM88 That is a myth. They disolve carbon an enamel, they dont loosen up big chunks. And if your engine already has a lot of carbon buildup and sludge, be sure that all those small oil channels are already partially clogged. And engine flush will help with that.
Using oil that was not intended for the engine is much mush worse. The eninge is designed to have desired oil presure by having the certain diameter of the oil passages and the oil pump flow, which is direcly tied to the oil viscosity. If you change the oil viscosity, you are changing everything. The oil presure, the oil flow rate, the film strenght,...
@@RogerM88 Dude, this is not the middle ages. Engine fluses are designed to be safe to rubber. They are evne safe for belt-in-oil systems.
was the liquid of the flush bottles clear first and then milky white when pouring in? if so you should probably shake the bottles first to mix it up again
Many of crazy idea i have ,but no one do it. This channel have most of my crazy idea that actually do it😂
I stopped adding oil additives and cleaners etc. after some stuff possibly made my last car knock but this makes me almost want to use a cleaner atleast every so often.. Awesome Experiment..
What stuff made it knock?
Easy way is to not let it sludge up in the first place
So don't do things like let BMW decide to not change your oil at 12-18mo/15000km services like I saw numerous times in the service books of E63 6 series I was looking at earlier this year
if a liquid made your engine knock, then you've clearly not taken care of it
@@greebjDear gods.. 15,000km is about 4,000km more than I'd ever push an oil change (about 11,200 tops) and in a BMW... Damn they really are trying to ensure your engine breaks and you have to either blow money on repairs or a new BMW.
The auto part store must love you !
I Love This Channel and These Guys. Every day i Hope for 200 new Videos 😂😂😂😂 i Consume This Channel like a Drug ❤
By the way i watched ALL Videos in 2 Months as i was sick 😂
Why the flush additive didn't also started to work in the first engine after those several oil changes? 🤔
I used Forte engine flush in the past to clean off the varnish residues on the valve train, it comes out absolutely clean.
Not as polluted like this Lada engine, what has it been running? Mineral oil?
Read the title and immediately recognized the need to know if this would work 😂
To be fair, you can probably obtain the same results much quicker by removing the oil pan and truly emptying it (so that it is just the sludge that's darkening the new oil).
I recently changed my oil pan's gasket, and man, I didn't expect it to be so much oil left inside (almost a liter, and I'm talking about a small 1.4 gasoline engine).
needed a bottle of the second cleaner in the first engine at the end to see if it would really pull more sludge out
I worked an auto repair for 10 years and I have service to at least 10,000 vehicles. I've pulled off a minimum of 100 valve covers. Sludging was extremely rare. Maybe a total of 10 vehicles in 10 years that had engine problems due to sludge. It was more likely to happen on engines that held a small quantity of oil and engines they used turbochargers. The last engine that it was pronto happening to would be an engine that had an exhaust pipe that ran next to it.
Sludge is rarely an issue, if anything it tends to hide issues because it plugs up leaks till it blows out. Older engine yeah I can see it being an issue because of the oil they used and the unleaded gas at one point (The lead acted as a lubricant)
Hi Guys, Awesome Job! Thanks For The Video...
Love the robustness of those LADA engines. You can put 5kg of sht in it and it will still have full power output.
Because the design is older and the engine is simple, the tolerances in the engine are not small and thats why jt can withstand these torture
And because of that it doesn't have to work that well to reach "full power"
It's garbage lol
lada always running, always half broken, but never dead
Yes, the full 50 hp lol
i do the same now😂 for for sensitive modern engines, i mix fresh oil with 2l of diesel. works like a charm. diesel is a very good cleaner.
One thing you should try, fill an engine up to the brim with diesel, and let it sit, don't run it (diesel isn't thick enough), or at most spin it off the starter with no spark plugs in so there's no load.
Had you triedd engine oil for diesels? This is a detergent oil. Run for a couple of days and it will strip most of the gludge out then change for new filter and oil. Only pprob is it may clog up the cat exhaust aand some seals may leak.
I’m more amazed at how his hand remains so clean after catching all the dirty oil with his bare hands so many times 😂😂😂
I was having VVT lifter check engine codes in my honda and I read online clogged oil galleries were a likely culprit. I bought a bottle of seafoam, engine flush and some diesel + new leftover oil from previous changes, I let it run a good hour and occasionally revved the engine. The gunk that came out was black, and wouldn't you know it after clearing the code it hasn't came back in 4 months of daily driving.
Will the barrel clean it? Sure, so long as you immerse the entire engine in the barrel.
That was impressive! But I would have liked to have seen the whole engine apart to see how good of a job the flushing did!
I've found kero (kerosene) added to engine oil (idle 15 mins) before a change works REALLY well.
Great video guys I love it
Here in indonesia we are using cooking oil to flush our engine.. and it works quite well, maybe you can make a video cleaning ur engine using cooking oil
you should compare it to the the control group of a 3rd motor where you swap out the oil with no additiive at the same intermal
Where do I get the stuff in the little bottles in the States? That stuff works very nice.
how about pump solvent through the oiling system while turning the motor by hand or or with the starter (plugs out) and spray some kind of spray in they holes
" Thats a long ass plug" Lmao
When you remove the oil drain plug you should attach a piece of garden hose or something to keep your fingers clean and cool.
Let's not forget that motor oil has detergents in it as well
Unless you use low grade oil and neglect it
@@jakkbatt4711 I was saying that because they're doing an oil change Everytime so even without the cleaner ,the oil will help
So, what if you quadruple the running time on one bottle of flush?
Drive around town for the 15 mins.. that will spray it everywhere and slosh around the pan. Very nice
Love the music!
what happen to the first engine did the oil changes clean it from inside ?
Did you just run it on pure engine flush without motor oil?
A base line of just oil changes would be cool to see if they work just as well
I want a Lada. With Sergei's autograph on driver side door. 😂 I'm not playing.
I thought he was going to pour the small bottle in the other engine to show that it was better. After the 10 gallons of flush when it was showing clean...if he poured that small bottle in and it comes out black you would know that stuff is superior. Still I appreciate them doing this at all. That's a lot of money in oils and flushes.
AWESOME video......Thanks
Should try using purple power 😂 that stuff is wild but amazing!
I have not seen flushing oil in the USA in over 20 years maybe 30 years. When I lived in Germany 1979 to 1991 it was common. Back then it was a 20wt. oil.
i would LOVE to get my hands on one of these cars in the states, they are so cool looking to me.
You might be able to import a Lada, they are well over 25 years old (more like 40) but not sure if they'd be road legal even with grandfathering of safty issues.
I thought you poured in the full barrel all at once:-P You filling it with cooking oil?
The real question is did it improve the performance of the engine at all? A dyno pull/compression check at intervals along the way would’ve been great.
Hopefully it freed up the rings, because its definitely going to burn oil through the valve seals now
Drain 1qt, add 2pt diesel 1c methanol, 1c ammonia. Ammonia is a great emulsifier but it is not miscible with oil but it is with methanol. Methanol is also missable with oil. Use this on the first flush, let run at idle for 30 minutes, allow to drain for 20 minutes remove the oil cap when you do so that any residual ammonia vapor can escape. Second flush add one quart of diesel to the oil, let it run for at least 20 minutes then drain and remove your oil filter and put a new one on. There will not be any sludge left. It will look like you steam cleaned it. Nothing but shiny metal.
Another cheap solution that gets the same results but takes longer... At one quart of transmission fluid 300 mi before your oil change. Transmission fluid has detergents that do the same thing but it's weaker and takes longer in addition transmission fluid is hydraulic oil and will emulsify sludge but again it takes longer.
Both of these are great solutions that don't cost that much and work as well if not better than seafoams and over the counter engine flushes.
Cool story bro
Try 1 pint of diesel in the oil run the engine for about 2 minutes and drop the oil/change the filter.
Under the rocker cover on the last flush very clean almost that clean you could eat your dinner out of it
I wish they'd pulled the valve cover when the oil flush didn't show dirt being removed, to check the valve train cleanliness at that point, before continuing.
Have wondered as to the use of small amounts of something like Xylene - 50 - 100cc with a full load of oil?