I would take any car I own to this man and i do all of my own work. He deserves the business just because he's a man of character and that's worth more than money. There's a reason you have 1.2M subscribers. I hope you know we value your integrity!
@@torobayoverpriced if you ask me 😬 ! but if your car if worth thousands more than the repairs and you have the extra money it’s probably pocket change for rich people
Respect. Being this upset on the owners behalf simply because it will be such a tough decision on getting it repaired properly shows how much integrity this shop has.
I put 770,000 miles on a 2012 4.6 Tundra doing oilfield type deliveries down here in Houston. I am vigilant with all of my fluids and was doing coolant drain and fills every 50k (miles) and transmission every 25k. The factory transmission died around 730.000 miles and I made the mistake by letting a small rebuilder rebuild it and it went back to his shop about 6 or 7 times. Had to sell the truck and was open and honest about transmission. I never had a head gasket failure but around 700k I started getting black buildup in expansion reservoir. I kept driving it all over the country and it never overheated on me. I'm not sure what was causing the buildup but possibly pinhole leak in head gasket. I'm currently on 220,000 on my 2nd 2014 4.6 Tundra. I really love the 4.6 engine and it works for me because I am not towing. I am now going to start doing 25k coolant drain after watching this video.
What an honest man who loves his Toyotas but is willing to call like it is. But also speaks in a language that is understandable. Very rare these days.
Thank you! I have that engine, lightly used so far, 80,000. I didn’t think much of coolant replacement, but NOW I will as well as shorten my oil intervals. You are a life saver!
6k mile oil changes... and consistent coolant flushes... saves your heater core, AND water pump... toyotas COOLANT has CHEMICALS IN IT to help with lubrication... but if old an go bad he's right the coolant will get acidic. " Toyota recommends flushing the coolant in a vehicle every 30,000 miles or every two years. However, the interval may vary depending on the type of coolant used in the vehicle".
Yeah, me too - this same video made me realize yet again, how very unwise it is to actually take seriously the manuf "recommended service intervals" as they are far too long! I have a 2017 Lexus LS460 and had only 69,500 miles when I bought last year (for $36,500) - which means the car is new enough, that most maintenance I do will pay off long-term. There's no such thing as "lifetime" coolant, lifetime ATF, or lifetime any other fluid! That's a lie, always has been, and I'm tired of pretending it isn't.
@@derakbell8143 I'd say that might be over-kill, I've always gone two years between coolant changes (mainly because it just started to bug me too much after that much time elapsed with the same coolant) but, certainly nothing wrong with a yearly interval. Used to be you would never think of simply doing a drain and refill, you'd use a chemical to flush the cooling system, then drain and refill until it came out clear. THEN add your coolant concentration (none of it was that 50/50 rip-off stuff either!). Now the wisdom is to only use distilled water to flush.
It's kind of nice to see a mechanic who's stressed out about the fact that he's thinking about the well-being of his customers. This happens to those who take their work seriously. I can learn a lot from you because you are not stingy with the knowledge you have, and it is huge. Thanks.
If one does not pass on their knowledge then that knowledge is worthless. All of us learned and taught back in the 60's because that is how Italians were back then, the best of the best...
You are not some small insignificant shop! The work you and your team do restores our faith that there are honest and good mechanics out there! God Bless!
@beri232 Because he - establishes a pattern of failure with proof - details history and symptoms - shows root cause - pitfalls of traditional repair and mitigation Just because your attention span is compromised doesn't mean others don't want to see a seasoned expert go over every scenario and solution.
I am an old retired auto mechanic. My only claim to fame is I won the National Alfa Romeo Mechanic's Championship in 1986. I appreciate your in depth analysis and dedication to providing the best possible service to your customers. I am passing on a link to my former independent repair shop I worked for for 16 years in hopes that they too will be very careful about repairs in their future. God is a rewarder for those who do his will and diligently seek him. May God Bless you and help you is my prayer....Al Weseman
Coincidentally, I talked to a new Alpha Romeo owner. He had just traded in his Casper Milktoast white Tesla in on this beautiful vehicle. The interior blew me away. The dealership he used has 6 Teslas in the front row.
Angelo Panari owned Imported Motor Service on Hyde Street he came over to San Francisco because he was one of the Ferrari mechanics for Enzo Ferraries Formula cars, the Ferrari Dealership in San Francisco snatched Angelo up and hired him right up they brought his family over from Italy, they also gave him a apartment, car and he was givien a Green Card by the San Francisco Judge as the dealership guarnateed they were resonsible. I remember when he was working on one of Ferraries 12 cylinder blocks, he scrapped the crank shaft saddles using Prussin blue , he truely was a genius as he could lay his hands on the car and could tell in most cases what the problem was? Angelo passed away about 2 years ago he was wrenching till he died I was trained by the Italians some of the very best Italian mechanics in the world, NO JOKE! I was his partner till 1971 as San Francisco had become the illegl drug center of the USA along with the HIPPIE movement ? Our shop could fix any foreign car on the road we also had a body shop where two Mexicans that were the very best body and paint men till Angelo gave up?
This has been an issue all along with Toyota. No one changes their antifreeze in America. It's how I got all my Toyota cars dirt cheap. Blown head gaskets due to corrosive antifreeze. I'd buy it and fix it and have a good beater car for years. My 2001 Tundra with the 4.7 never had this problem due to me changing the antifreeze regularly and probably because the block is iron. It all comes down to one word... MAINTENANCE ! You sir are an honest and amazing man. Thank you for all the great videos.
Have been part time rebuilding engines since the late 60's and have observed this on numerous occasions. Simple answer is possible, but seems no one will be able to find. Old tractors used to employ soft copper head gaskets, and you could have quite a bit of warpage and they would seal fine. Actually look at some old manuals, the head gasket could be reused over and over. All you had to do is anneal the gasket and throw it back in. Today the only way to get a copper gasket, is most likely for a old 2 stroke motorcycle. They were common on old Suzuki's. Your last chance is to find a sheet of copper the correct thickness, hand cut the holes, then anneal. Have had to do this several times, trust me you are going to have tremendous labor time, and then buying the copper sheet is very costly. They will seal with several thousands of warpage, but again is it worth the effort.
My daily driver is a 2018 Buick Enclave Avenir AWD. It has 82k miles on it and has an extended warranty for 3 more years 43k miles. I took it to my mechanic, the dealer I bought it from and have proven themselves to be extremely trustworthy. I know the mechanic there that works on my cars personally. He called me and said, "hey! I saw your name on a service ticket that and wanted to tell you that we love owners like you in our shop." Then he said, "you're having all of the fluids replaced in the entire car!" He told me that my Buick looked and drove like brand new and spending the time or money to replace coolant, oil, transmission fluid, rear dif fluid, and brake fluid will make everything last wonderfully. He noticed that the front shocks were starting to leak just a tiny bit, which I asked them to check because I noticed it wasn't as smooth in the front lately and wanted them to inspect the control arm bushings, steering, and suspension. They quoted it to me, and I told them to take care of it. I thought my extended warranty was only a powertrain warranty. The service writer called me the next day asking for permission to call my warranty service. I asked him why and he said that I was wrong! My extended warranty is a bumper to bumper extended warranty!!! They called and got the approval to take care of the shocks for only my $100 deductible!!! These guys took it upon themselves to make sure I was right about my warranty and saved me over $2k because of doing more than I expected!!! I have worked on a ton of cars in my life and don't have the time or equipment to do it anymore. Having someone like you or like my dealer mechanics is priceless!!!! Honesty and integrity is priceless.
I own a 06 Lexus (13 yrs) and a 1995 T100 (30 yrs now) . I have maintained them religiously! Coolant change, brake fluid change and 4k mileage oil changes. If something needs attention I fix it immediately. A few years back I was at a dealership talking to the service manager. He told me I was wasting my money changing oil so often. This video is music to my ears. It's reassuring to hear a master mechanic like CCN validate my thinking. Although I do not work on my vehicles anymore I still enjoy learning from this man.
Anyone telling you that you are changing the oil *too* often should not be considered as a viable source of any automotive information. That is an insane thing to say, especially to someone like you who has literal decades of ownership with your cars.
@@GageLawrinse Thank you for your reply. I bought the 1995 Toyota T100 with 4k miles in 1995. 170k miles now and honestly it runs like a top and is quite nice (SR5). 3400 V6 and no real issues. Gaskets, various hoses, front pads, steering controller leak, timing belts, with all factory original drive chain. Incredible.........
Nice! I have a 24 year old L.C. still going strong and a 35 year old Hilux with the 3.0 V6, still going strong, I use them both for what they are for, off-road exploring in the AZ, NV, CA. deserts- you take care of them they take care of you! The older ones of course...
that was your issue, even bothering to listen to someone who works at a dealership. they want you to blow your engine every 5 years to buy their next loan
I have 96 4Runner with 250k, bought new and maintain it myself. Oil changes every 3k miles, trans every 10k. Runs like new. My daughter drives it to college now. I’ve also used surface shield on the frame, no rust
That's the same problems on so many cars from so many brands. It's not the mech who decides the service schedule for a car, but the spread sheet accountant... And it shouldn't be so. As a consequence, these things happen more and more. Thanks for taking the time to make this, and to share it! Much appreciated. Kind regards
call me crazy but I drain and fill every 20k miles. At that interval, older coolant will get diluted and drain out by the next drain and fill. Same goes with ATF but at 30k.
He’s an honest man, brought my 05 4Runner and wanted him to fix everything… I was ready to spend 10k… he did the oil change and checked everything… told me to use it for 2-3 years and sell it, which I did 4 plus years later and doing 2 months road trip, sold it at car max for 2k. Very thankful for his honesty. 17 years with minimal issues, and I was hard on the gas with that car, 5k rpm daily… 130mph 18mpg even at 17 years. Original x reas suspension, never failed emissions, will not overheat even with a gallon of coolant missing, miss that car. Btw, when he told me the news, he did so in such a way like a good friend telling you about life decisions, he took time to explain it and talk to me like a good friend would, I really appreciate what he does.
@@bettysmith4527i think I was there 2018 i think, not sure but he just opened his shop recently somewhere around the Orland Park suburb area or something close by. Southwest of Chicagoland. I was very disappointed when he told me he wouldn’t fix my car, he checked the important things and did the oil change and told me the best thing to plan was to eventually get rid of it… after a few more years and doing a two month road trip to 18 states, I sold it at carmax for 2k with 230k miles… initially they offered 3k but after actual inspection they adjusted it. The tyres were 5 months old… they basically bought the tyres and got the 4runner for free 😀
I’m no longer a Toyota/ASE MAuto Tech , 11 years now. But I worked on a 07-08 Tundra valve dropped. I replaced the short block, bare head on the valve drop side, and so much more. 11 years now I do 99% less work at my new job. Thinking back, I don’t know how I did what you are still doing today, the human brain is marvelous, at the very least! Thanks for the great content!
Three of us bought 1985 Toyota Hilux's. After a 10K break-in per Toyota's specs they ate 2.5qt's of oil every 3K oil change. The dealer did an oil consumption test to confirm the use. The service writer informed us that they "were within spec." Two of us traded them on domestic trucks. The other walked up and down the sidewalk with a sign reading "My truck uses 2.5 qt's of oil every 3K." After several days of this the service manager came out. "You're getting a new short block." The tech doing the engine work told him that Toyota had a bad run of piston rings with insufficient pressure on the cylinder walls thus letting in oil from the pan into the combustion chambers. Toyota knew about the problem but wouldn't pay the dealer to remedy the problem. I guess my friend's sidewalk routine did it.
@@davidanderson8469 For the most part, my dealership took care of their customers. 2.5qt every 3k is a major oil consumption in anyone’s book. I’m glad you and your buddies had a happy ending story. One thing I can’t stand is seeing an upset customer, situational awareness is not dealerships priority at all, everything is about making a quick buck. To this day I still have nightmares when I dream of going back to work for my dealership, waking up is the best part and plus the day I quit my new job double my salary.
I am a retired engineer, and I always over-service my vehicles. I have always had Toyotas, and I have had trouble-free motoring. The coolant must be changed more often than the recommended time. Great video. I really enjoy a mechanic of your caliber explaining what has happened and how to fix it. Interesting to hear that we really cannot rebuild the modern engines like we used to do to the old ones. Great video , God Bless .
He said 50k miles or 5-years. That's still too long. I'm also a retired engineer and I replace coolant every 3-4 years or 30k miles. I do it every 2-years in my motorcycles. I don't care what the coolant maker or the car maker recommends. It's just not that expensive. Yes, there are autos out there that are extremely difficult to do a coolant change for a DIYer, and for those you should go to a reputable, capable shop. It'll cost what it costs, which is still a bunch less than a new engine. What's a few hundred dollars compared to $10k, $15k or $20k+ dollars. Just sayin... Auto engines are now very much a precision engineered and manufactured machine. Maintenance, regular maintenance, and more maintenance is super critical. You almost cannot over maintenance your auto.
@@tywalI agree and I follow my own maintenance schedule. Modem cars tell you the fluids last 100,000 or forever. I'm old enough to know that it's not true.
This man is an honest person who cares about cars, but more importantly, he cares about people. His advice is sound. Don't underestimate what he's saying. I bought my wife a 2024 Rav4 and since the dealership won't do my oil changes earlier than 10,000 miles, I forfeited those free oil changes, and I'm doing my own at home every 5,000 miles with better oil and I even did the first brake-in oil change at 500 miles just to be on the safe side. It's totally worth the peace of mind and complete satisfaction.
As a mechanic, this is music to my ears. I work for an independent shop and customers think we're trying to scam them by suggesting 5-6k oil changes instead of the 8k or higher the dealership recommended depending on the brand. It's even worse with direct injection engines as aging oil evaporates more and will cake on the intake valves. Folks, garages make pennies of profit on oil changes at best, the inspection is where it's at.
Recently I purchased a high mileage 2014 Corolla (156,000 mi) and it seemed to have a head gasket problem. As it turned out ( I4 2AR) cylinder number 2 was "steam" cleaned just as your video shows for cylinder 7 on V8 UR. The steel gasket also shows the same "signs" of some kind of coolant "migration" into cylinder #2. In my case the head and block checked out OK as far as I could measure but I just didn't like the idea of putting time into fixing with the same type of steel gasket if I couldn't fix it for "good". Contrary to your "don't use a Felpro gasket" in July I did just that. So far at about 6,000 miles all is good. It took me an investment of 28 hours of my time and about $200 for all the items needed to do the job. I really respect you as a person as I can see that you really think about the customer and their situation. No doubt you will be seeing an increasing number of these. I intellectually love how you honestly looked at the costs and pathways of doing it "right" for the customer, you sir are a real "GEM". Thanks for making this type of video, superb! Like you say, the cost to repair is "more than the car is worth" is totally accurate to provide the perfect repair in an imperfect world. I think that ( as an engineering technologist ) the space between the cylinders is too small and perhaps the coolant passages should be "rethought". My dad was a certified machinist and in his day he would do his utmost to make the repair "as good as it gets" but his skill and tools were only so good for the 1960's. I was always amazed at what he would come up with, get away with, at such a low cost and that actually worked for years and years. But when dealing with customers, understanding is KEY. So we shall let the "real world" decide if my head gasket repair will allow me to continue with the Corolla for another 10 years of life, I expect it will not be "clear cut". 🙏😃
When I first started watching you, the shop was spotless and near empty, you had just opened. I was very impressed. Now look at you, shop full of work, in progress and not so clean anymore. I call that success and I salute you!
Hi AMD I totally respect all your mechanical abilities I love your videos. I have been a precision machinist and a mechanic for over 40 years you can precision lap that block and head very easily just get yourself a lapping plate. It is extremely easy you can lap off the high spots off both the block and the head and you will be amazed how easy it is and you will have no problem with the gasket sealing properly. Just get yourself a impregnated lapping plate so you do not have to worry about adding lapping compound. And with just a few swipes of the lapping plate you can knock off the high spots of both the block and the head you will be extremely happy. No machine shops needed. And you will not take off enough material to worry about the timing of the Engine. Trust me you are an excellent mechanic you can do this. You will save your customers a ton of money and also be doing fantastic work at the same time. One other thing the bigger the lapping plate the better but not so big that you can’t get it in the area where you need to lap the block.
Yes this. If it's only 0.002" from flat it's minimal work to lap it true. I lapped the block on my 22re when I recently replaced the head gasket. Cast iron block, took a bit of elbow grease but helped me sleep at night.
I have a similar background in machining and tool making and agree lapping would bring this engine back. I'd like to add that the amount of total "warpage" is less important than than the concentration of surface irregularity. A head or block with a gradual 0.002" bow in it will not be a problem because the head will flatten itself out to match the block no problem with little head bolt tension but a 0.002" hollow over an inch between the bores for example will not. I don't think people realize how floppy metal is when you start clamping it with bolts. I've measured the flexing of thick chunks of solid steel bending from only light clamping when the hold down clamps are only slightly off from being directly over the parallels underneath.
I second this! As a Subaru hobbyist I have hand surfaced the blocks for exactly this issue. The key for you is going to be time management. Get an aggressive block and a fine block to save time and still achieve the correct RA value.
As a 20 year veteran of working at a Honda dealership, I can say that you are 100 percent correct with all of your knowledge and responses. I tip my hat to you! Some of the older Hondas had the same issues with the aluminum blocks. And just like you say, there are a few options for a proper repair. However, they are usually very expensive. Thank you for sharing your knowledge about the Toyota engines. ✌️
I feel car care nut is the Technician I never had. He's seems patient, very clear, and thorough with an explanation of why parts fail. The art of being a technician. If only my past fellow technicians were like this at the dealerships.
I have seen old coolant eat up an intake manifold on a car with only 100,000 miles on it . Don't forget to change your coolant especially if you want to keep your car .
You can flatten the deck on that engine using sand paper, contact cement and solid surface countertop material. There are TH-cam videos on it. I have flattened out decks that were up to .004. You do the best you can and put a new gasket on it and you are good for another 100k. You're a mechanic fix it. The new cars have a lot of problems, auto techs certainly have their job security. Thanks for another great video
I'm a Machinist and I feel your pain! I can see where the acidity of the coolant has degraded the coating on the head gasket. Why only on one side of the engine is a mystery. You need a granite surface plate to check the head for flatness, not just a straight edge. Use Dykem Hy-spot blue as it will give you a great image. You can also do the same thing to the block with a parallel bar. You can scrape the surface of the block in place to fix a slight low spot. It's tedious work, but better than removing and disassembling the engine! Some things are not easy, and this is one of them. Are the thicker head gaskets Toyota/Lexus parts or aftermarket like Cometic?
I passed on a 2011 Sequoia over a year ago because the engine had been redone due to blown head gasket. It had 190,000 miles on it and the owner didn't bother to tell me it had been done until I had paid for an pre-purchase inspection. Upon inspection there was slight coolant leak found but nothing visible on the ground. Took a hard pass on that Sequoia. ALWAYS, always get a PPI!!
I have owned 6 different Chevys from 1970 to 2001 and pulling heavy soars up to Canada 🇨🇦 and from Seattle to eastern Washington, one that I know is still on the road with over 300,000 miles and the heads have never been off 4.3 v6 one of the best engines ever❤️👍😎
I hear ya! 5 years ago our son drove our 1995 Astro when the water pump failed and lost all coolant. He kept driving - thought the temperature gauge was wrong. Got so hot it set a code saying the temperature sensor circuit shorted!! Put on a new water pump, reset the code, and the van acted like nothing ever happened. Now has over 300K miles, drove it today. Doesn't even use oil between changes. Its a beater I wouldn't take very far out of town, but hasn't needed anything except routine maintenance for the last 2 years. Can't beat cast iron! (Also one of the reasons I love love love GM 3800s!) Since this is a Toyota channel, have to also brag on daughter's 1999 Camry V6 - 306K and runs like a dream. 1MZ-FE will go forever if you care for them. But NEVER overheat an aluminum engine.
AMD, I wish you lived in the southeast so I could take my car to you. I sincerely admire your integrity and attention to detail. Cars are becoming so complicated and maintenance is becoming so essential. All the while, manufacturers tell the public tall tales about 10,000 mile oil changes, "miracle" 100k mile coolant and "lifetime" transmission fluid. SMH.
Toyota dealer service dept. I worked at in the 90s would not change coolant on used vehicles. Reason: nobody ever looks when buying so why. Really? I was gone within 6 months. BTW, you are the best.
Honestly RickCampbell I can't blame them for not doing that. It would cost them a fortune to do it and most cars (supposedly) come with "lifetime" coolant anyway. I know that's a lie, you know it's a lie, but it's exactly how every used car dealer will treat the cars and that's what I always assume. The first thing I do on a new-to-me car, is assume the previous owner's never done a thing to the car except put gas in it. And then I change all the fluids myself.
Bless you and thanks for the videos! Just started watching your videos a few months ago. My wife has a 2015 Highlander XLE with 145k miles, I just purchased a 2015 ES 350 with 50k miles, thanks to your videos I have changed my maintenance schedules for both, with the head gasket issues you have shown I have implemented 5k mile oil changes and yearly coolant drain and fills, and also yearly transmission drain and fills. "You can't over maintain your engines" I love that quote! Hopefully will have years of reliable service with these 2gr-fe engines and transmissions.
This man is absolutely one of the top ten mechanic in the world! Unfortunately I live in EU and cant take my Toyota to him for repairs. I am cursed with mechanics who barely knows how the engine works.
Thank you so much for this video. I feel horrible for this owner. My dad is a retired mechanic from the 70's he retired in the 20teens. He started telling me back in the day when he started to see manufacturers start pushing the limits of maintenance intervals and changing engine block metals from Iron to Aluminum that these are ticking time bombs that are throw away one time use engines. I have a 22 GX UR V8 and 23 4Runner 1GR V6. He laughed and said nice motors! Remember their short maintenance interval if you want to keep them! Thank you AMD, show this video to everyone when they want to save on an oil or coolant change. God Bless!
Finally, a great mechanic that takes pride in his work and actually takes the time to lay all the parts out in order instead of throwing them in a pile on a dirty floor! He deserves respect!
Coolant can become both acidic and begin to carry an electrical charge that will promote electrolysis. In a metal environment that has a current running through it (like an engine block), the differing metals are always trying to reach equilibrium at a molecular level. Galvanic corrosion. One metal will give up those atoms. As those atoms begin flowing through the coolant, the coolant increases its capacity to carry an electrical charge thus furthering galvanic corrosion. Flush that coolant folks. It’s cheap and you can do it at home. Be sure to burp the air pocket when the thermostat opens.
They used to sell a small zinc ingot you hung inside the radiator filler neck, they called it a "sacrificial anode" or something like that. When that ingot started to corrode, you knew you'd gone too far on your coolant. But obviously you'd be better off just changing coolant.
250k miles on my 2007 tundra and 152k miles on my 2020 tundra. Never had any issues with either one so far and zero oil leaks. Never replaced any seals or gaskets on either one yet.
Awesome take care of them and they will last I changed my starter out last year for the first time and changed my alternator today for the first time... by the way that was a nightmare...lol
Thank you and as always an eye opener. My 2UR V8 gave out too and ironically it’s what led me to discover your channel several months ago as I was trying to figure how it all went wrong. Now with my new Toyota I’m much the wiser thanks to you, hope to get better luck this time around. May you be blessed a thousand times over, you’re the epitome of a true gentleman and a scholar. 🙏🏾
@@IH8Sn0wFal lost compression on two cylinders. Dropped borescope and there was bore scoring. I was experiencing gradual loss of coolant over time, misfire at cold start accompanied by white exhaust smoke. Interestingly once engine warmed up symptoms would clear up, I believe due to thermal expansion whatever gap was in the gasket would reseal and compression would go back up
@@asplmn if his explanation was accurate, and he'd seen as many as he's reporting, it's statistically unlikely that they'd keep hitting #5 and #7 unless other factors are at play. Something isn't lining up.
Out here in Southern AZ, we used a radiator shop that was in business for over 35 years. The owner advised us to flush the engines cooling system at 5 years or every 50,000 miles. In addition, he recommended the use of distilled water with the coolant concentrate or just using the premixed OEM coolant. The radiator cap and thermostat should be replaced at the same 5 year/50,000 mile interval.
Machinist here, have you tried precision lapped stones on the face of the cylinder block? Not a stone, a diamond lapped stone. if that doesn't show you the high spot, lapping/grinding the cylinder block isn't a big deal for any reputable machine shops. They can measure it on their CMM or granite table and indicator and get a dimension before they grind/lap, then measure it again to give you the finished dimension and flatness. Either go with a tool and die shops, or aerospace shops. I would avoid automotive machine shops.
I lap mine on 10mm float glass. It's the cheapest flat surface you can buy. Only to clean it up if already flat. If it's wrapped from overheating is gonna need machining with a flycutter.
Automotive machine shops are typically owned by ego driven individuals that have zero desire to listen to their customers. They do things the way they want to and get really upset if you ask for anything to be done in a certain way. I learned this quote some time ago and experienced it at every automotive machine shop I've been to.
The issue with this is that you can't just remove those 2 thousands(or more), plus any possible material off of the cylinder head and then just slap a thicker gasket. You may have compromised the very physical dimensions of the combustion chamber and valve train and will need to deal with that, as well as possible valve height problems and even requiring valve seat work, not to mention vvti issues and incorrect fuel ignition and compression due to the modified combustion chamber potentially causing a myriad of problems. I've seen more than a few vehicles that were brought in the shop in my many years as a tech after major repairs and machine shop work, misfiring and with ses lights on only for their respective owners to be told that they need a new engine due to deck height measurements being out of spec due to machining. These high tolerance engines along with their respective supporting systems do not allow you to get away with much. These are not the same engines from yesterday.
My Tundra 5.7 2012 model just over 100,000 miles on, it had a blown head gasket. it was cylinder #8 had blown just like this video! the funny thing is that I had radiator flushed with radiator flusher machine on 80,000 miles. First sign of blown head gasket was misfiring on cyl #8 on cold start. I though it was a ignition coil or plugs. So i had replace all coils and plugs, but continue misfire but no over heat. even coolant level has not dropped. My mechanic told me that the head on 3ur engine cannot be resurfaced. My mechanic had sent to the head shop to check any sign of warp, luckily no damage and block wasn't warped. The engine shop also found that one of the valve spring was broken, so I ended up change all the springs and basically rebuild engine. cost was 10,000 dollars. Now my car runs fine, but i am scared that this might happen again.
Great video! I’d add a piece of personal opinion: If you go back and look at those gaskets, they’re not JUST metal. They’re also coated in what’s referred to as an “encapsulant”. This is intended to fill the microscopic pores (grain) that exist natively in metals. An alternative example of this would be heat sink compound on a CPU. I have theorized that several manufacturers have been victims of a poor quality encapsulation on their gaskets. After all, these gaskets are usually made by others. I’ve seen these types of failures on multiple manufacturers and as the OP states, when it exists, there tends to be a pattern. I’d further speculate that a mild overheat could also be the cause of this. Some of the cheaper encapsulants start to break down quickly around 300F.
I don't have experience in machining an engine block but I ben working in a machine shop for 36 years . I would try someone who has experience in lapping . Using a lapping plate you could take the high spots off and bring the overall flatness closer to what you will be comfortable with . Not perfect but closer . And you could do it without removing the engine block from the car.
When I'm working on rebuilding motors on my project cars (Volvos), if the head is not pitted or warped, I wet sand it perfectly flat with 400 grit taped to a piece of home window glass. I check the blocks as well but I've not seen one warped on my project cars. After I clean it up, put it together with new torque yield bolts and it seals up great.
Car Care Nut, can you either move here to Vancouver or train a thousand mechanics to share the love around the world? You're what every car mechanic needs to and should be.
@@mikek.9980 Hint? Where I live a replacement would run $3,974 plus parts, 538 dollars = $4,512 plus tax = 360.00 for a total of $4,872 his $5,000 figure is not far off. That's for 1 side.
My 1UZ LS400 has had no maintenance from the prev. owner from 100k miles to 220k. It's teaching me a lot about cars, which I know very little, I've changed the alternator, power steering pump, high pressure lines, radiator, and I am about to fix a oil leak caused by a faulty oil pan leak. This car hasn't had any fuel injector or spark plug maintenance, or much of any maintenance until my mom got a hold of it, and now at 270,000 miles, she gave it to me after my 300zx blew a head gasket, and she bought a new car. The 1UZ is a tank, and is so underrated. I see some LS400s on Offerup for only a couple grand, be it at 200k miles, but they can run for much more than that. Very underrated.
Mercedes/BMW engine builder here. German engines have marks which show the maximum machining for both the block and heads. The cam gears allow for up to 5 degrees +/- adaptation to compensate. For $23k for a short block I would Darton sleeve it and step deck the block, problem solved. I build 1,000+ AMG engines for reference. Currently I have a new M177 63AMG V8 for rebuild.
So you work on the worst, most overly complex engineered junk engines ever created. That's just sad. I wouldn't take ANY euro trash vehicle if you gave it to me for free. Their track record for reliability, longevity, and holding their value are abysmal.
@@riverpirate1022 Mercedes Benz SLS would like to have a word with you. They use that engine in the GT3 racing still to date 6.3L NA V8 beast, I love Lexus V8 but Merc engine in that SLS is ultimate V8 it's having Transaxle and on top the engine is the only reliable modern V8, old W series Merc cars are also solid. I have an RC F myself by the way. Toyota POS is not that great either, LS is not possible to own anymore because it's too old to maintain. And latest yota's are garbage. The only Toyota I would buy that also has flaws of stupid paint is 4Runner.
no thanks. these newer cars...are TOOO COMPLICATED...and too much being squeezed out of them...and LOW interval oil-coolant services.....throw away......... such high numbers when buying...and worthless when these problems occur. early 2000's were easier times.
AMD, Do you ever pause for a moment and ask yourself if we can actually handle the truth before you tell us the truth because I have my doubts. 🤔😉🤣 Since I am never in a hurry, I have stated several times that my favorite 200 and 300 Series Land Cruiser engine is the 1GR-FE 4.0 V6. Too bad they never sold them in our market. On a positive note, your channel has taught me the valuable lesson to be less jealous of high end Toyotas with V8s. My humble, 126 hp 1ZZ-FE engine looks better with each passing decade.😁
AMD, there must be an honest review of the current and every prior ownership. I understand that most owners are not mechanically inclined I purchased our Sequoia with 178K miles from the very first owner, now while near 200K, engine is stil perfect and I had no doubt she will remain in my fleet for so much needed towing power and air suspension.
I listened to this a second time to make sure I understood the important point. He said the measured warpage is 0.0021. The specification is 0.00257. The block is within factory specifications. He is justified to install a new head gasket on this engine. As he said, there is some risk. He needs to talk with the customer and explain the situation and ask the customer if he wants to take a $5,000 risk on a new head gasket where Toyota says it is within tolerance. I suspect he did just that with his customer. He may want to consider making a cleaning cut on the head to make it perfectly flat. This will eliminate the possibility of additive warpage of both head and block throwing the total warpage out of tolerance resulting in another head gasket leak. This guy is a perfectionist and is the best.
The block is within specification, I would expect that Toyota engineers know that the gasket can accommodate the warp up to the point on the specification the block may have had the existing warp at the time of manufacture. It pasted 190k. I would not be afraid of doing the job. Closely inspect the head as you suggest is a good idea. Of low at the failure point grind it flat.
@robertjohnson4401 I think you missed a couple of points. One, his experience has educated him that a new gasket will NOT result in a "good as new" result, even though the block is within spec, so he felt obligated to inform the customer, allowing the customer to make an informed decision. Two, he will not touch the block to flatten it because of potential damage, which he explained - again, a risky move.
@@bobblack3870 I did not miss either of your two points. I agree he should not touch the block. I said he could see if the head flatness could be improved to improve the outcome. As far as his experience with the block warpage being within tolerance and his bad experience to the contrary, I said he needs to talk with the customer and inform him that Toyota says it is within specification but he has seen bad outcomes with the current warpage. The customer can make the decision.
Warpage isn't always an issue. The head will clamp down and the head gasket will take up the void. In fact, I've read the factory service manual for Mercedes M272 and they said the head will be slightly bowed and the head bolts will actually straighten it out😂
This is how, over time, we as car owners are all paying the price for ridiculous environmental regulations which force manufacturers to lighten all parts of a vehicle, including an aluminum engine, consequently making them less robust and unreliable over time. This equates to more financial burden on the car buying public in having to purchase a new vehicle sooner than later or a repair that entails extravagant labor and parts costs. The government in its infinite wisdom of trying to fix one problem via regulation creates another in ‘throw-away’ vehicles flying in the face of sustainability, disposal issues, not to mention manufacturing materials and energy required to build new vehicles.
thank god i didn't get a second gen sequoia last year, i was shopping for a sequoia and was torned in between 1st and 2nd gen, i was leaning forward the 5.7 v8 just because of the power and torque alone. then i did more reading and research on the 1st gen, and learned about how reliable it is especially the 04-07. i would love to get an 05-07 one but found an 04 in excellent condition, low mileage and the timing belt and waterpump just got done, and car fax report is good. i pulled the trigger on the 04 sequoia, and im never happier, after doing some normal maintenace, plugs, oil, fluid, trans fluid,coolant, radiator, the hippo is driving wonderfully, ac is ice cold, up hill, down hill, rough road, nice road , this thing handle it all. and it has so much room. i love my first gen sequoia.
240k on my 2001 Sequoia, excellent trucks. Just check the ball joints, t-belt, and I personally found out that the heater t replacement is needed. You probably should do it simply due to age. Mine disintegrated upon touch and for $33, an hour of time, and topping off/bleeding coolant it's well worth it.
@@christopherclark4774 i did replaced the lbj with oem lbj, and i also did the t-shape heater hose adaptors, i replaced 2 with the metal ones. timing belts was replaced by the previous owner, i replaced the seprentine belt, radiator, hoses, plugs , oil and all fluids.
We at GM would call Dexcool "Dexkill" especially the recalled coolant or old worn out coolant 😉,seen it eat right thru the aluminum thermostat housings & throttle body assemblies on Opel & Holden engines as well as domestic GM powerplants
I do coolant changes EVERY 60,000 miles or 4 YEARS (no ifs ands or buts). And only OEM TOYOTA fluid goes in there! Yes, Toyota calls it “super long life ….blah blah blah” 🙄 , but at the end of the day it’s a fluid, and not all that expensive. A damaged engine block on the other hand ……no brainer!
@@747-pilot My Lexus GS350 says 100K, then 50K. I recently did it at 100K (was used) . Got most of the coolant out but like 3/4 gal left over. May drain that amount and put that in.
@@747-pilot Old school green antifreeze is perfectly adequate for use in any engine. Ive been using it (or old pink Zerex back in the day) and never had issues. The weak newer engines with aluminum heads are the issue. not the coolant.
Great video AMD! The head gasket in my 2007 5.7L 3UR failed in cylinder #7 at 316,000, my mechanic discovered cylinder wall scoring once it was torn down so I had to shop for another long block because few shops know how to rebuild these correctly. I found an '08 3UR with about 80k and bought it from the original owner that had replaced the engine with a 3UR built for superchargers and racing. My mechanic tore this low mileage engine down for inspection and discovered that the head gasket in this engine was on it's way to a future failure in cylinder #7 as well. My low mileage 5.7L has new head gaskets and I will change the coolant every 40k or 4 years going forward. There is a company based in Florida that has an excellent reputation for building 'race' capable 3UR engines ~ XAT Racing, maybe they can help you and your customers. I am in no way affiliated with XAT Racing. There is also a person (JoeJoe) on the west coast that can import low mileage 3UR JDM Land Cruiser engines from Japan, he may also be able to help.
The only way this could be any better is if he opened a Toyota tech school so idiots like me could learn how to wrench. Much respect brother and keep up the great job. You are indeed a treasure.
Should everyone have to be a master mechanic just to survive? That's why I hate car dependent USA culture. I don't even LIKE cars but as a man I know WAY more about cars than most people, because I have to. My survival depends on me getting to work and getting places and in this country I need a car.
Thank you very, very much for the detailed explanation. I have an ‘11 with 145K+ and have, now, decided to keep oil changes to every 5K, not 6K to 7K and a coolant flush every 45K to 50K, with the next one in October. 👍
If you machine a bunch off the head and block without compensation you also increase the compression ratio and reduce the distance of the the plug and valves to the top of the piston.
Roll the dice. Replace the head gasket, overtorque by 3-5% and run it. Gaging warpage with a straight edge with feelers vs on a surface plate are 2 different animals. .001 over 20" is really small and compounding errors, straight edge tolerance and the feel of the gage leafs all needs to be considered. Head gasket construction and the material densities, even between manufacturers can be a crap shoot. Once upon a time, copper headgaskets and spray on copper particals were common. Your concerns over your reputation and liability are warranted. Great insight and ethics. Very refreshing.
I'm a BMW technician most "blown head gaskets" we get is usually consequential to an overheating . We call them "baked" engines we really don't repair them it needs a long block. Once we get them torn apart we find more anomalies besides a warped block everything is compromised from sleeves extract, oil starvation to bearings, scored cylinders, cracked blocked behind the sleeves( lately those are absolute), head threads that pull out when torquing etc etc
hmm..the smell of N63 engines with valve seal leaks and head gasket crapping out as well as everything else going to crap..the memories of a quart every 200 miles..this is why I bought the LC500 next
Yup, that is truth with just about every modern auto engine. Overheat it, blow a head gasket, best to junk the engine. That coolant leak somebody kept topping off, and then overheated it 🤣They should have spent $500 on the new radiator.
I have a 1996 Ford Ranger Splash, 3.0 V6, 5 spd manual, with 300K Kilometers on it, and never touched the engine. Replaced a water pump, alternator, clutch, batteries, and did a tune up on it at 180K, but other then that, still running, like new. Does not burn oil, leak oil, leak antifreeze. Best engine and vehicle I have ever owned, and I am 69.
Ouch! I don’t feel bad now that I changed antifreeze in my Sequoia at 50K and always oil change at 5K. Just short of 30K verses what fluid changes cost it is a no brainer.
My son's Mazda 4 wacker had a blown head gasket last year. His car is a 2014 SUV. It did cost over $5K. I guess I should be really happy that I bought a 2003 4Runner 4.7L V8 for $7K with 201,000 miles with no leaks. In the old days, we'd shave the heads and be happy with increased compression! Ah, the good old days.
@@paulsteverodriguez3549 The 1UZ through 1993 or thereabouts is a non interference engine, so if the timing belt broke, obviously that would be a bad day but at least you won't need to rebuild the engine. Slap a new belt kit on it and go.
I have a 2011 Tundra TRD limited Crew max with the 5.7. I bought it in 2021 with 232,00 miles. Now close to 270,000 miles. I change the oil and coolant religiously. I also have some other modifications to the truck. Thank you for the information. 🙏🏻 I will keep that much more track of the truck now. You just can't find these 5.7 engines anymore unless they are used or "reman".
No. If I’m reading your question right your are implying Toyota is building cars so reliable they are cannibalizing potential future sales. Toyota was the number one most profitable automaker in the world. Number two in the United States only behind GM. They’re doing just fine.
already did, probably 10 years ago. Still better than other manufacturers. At one time, you could buy Toyota anything, and you knew you were getting the highest quality, best design, and the company would stand by it. But starting in the early 2000s, you needed to do a little research and not pick the one bad model in Toyota's lineup. At this point, one has to be real careful choosing, if they want a 300k capable car. Toyota's best right now: 2024 Rav4, 2024 Prius, and 2024 4runner. Everything else disappoints one way or another. The twin turbo heavy vehicles are a real disappointment.
Complacency is always a risk during/after extended success. One of our flaws as humans. I think the answer to your question is "yes". We can't see "behind the boardroom doors" but we can see more than a few recent corporate decisions that seem inadvisable or overconfident.
My 2 UZFE actually blew up because of a head gasket leak that Hydro lock the engine with coolant. nothing is immune. I took excellent care of it as well.
How common is this problem really? The Tundra came out with the 5.7 V8 in 2007 and continued until 2021, about 14 years, and thus there are over 1 million Tundras sold with that engine that have never had this problem. There are even several Tundras with the 5.7 V8s that have gone over 1 million miles without this problem, and there are hundreds (or maybe thousands) of them that have 500k or more miles without this problem. Maybe it is a bad batch of head gaskets. I have been on the Tundra forums for years (a decade) and I have never seen or heard of this problem. If you add up all the other Toyota vehicles with this engine, and variations of it, it seems to be a very rare problem.
I think the real issue is people not checking their coolant enought. These trucks do develope common leaks like the water pump, radiator, and valley plate. If we are being honest most people do not check their vehicles on a regular basis. They just say, its a toyota, what can go wrong, before you know it the heads/block are warped and the head gasket doesn't seal anymore. Then they fill it up with coolant and take it to the mechanic and say, i don't know what happened, it just started misfiring all of sudden.
Agreed! I can't believe this is a new problem. It would be nice if he gave some history of these blown gaskets i.e. how old the coolant was, maintenance history, mileage. These could be just abused vehicles that never touched their coolant. This vid has a whole FB group of Sequoia owners going crazy! I just tested my 40k+ coolant and its right in the middle of the pH scale.....no sign of acidity------> Not worried.
we had that kind of problems with most modern all-aluminium engines. Luckily I live in a country where nobody cares about emission regulations so I just delete the catalytic converter, replace radiator cap with a lower pressure one and put thicker oil 😉
4.0L 4.3L and 4.7L iron block belt driven Toyota V8s are the only way to go. Everything after was built on a compromise. Never perfection. 1 million mile Tundras etc. all used these motors. Smoother, more reliable, quieter. Chains must be lubricated by oil. So the entire front covers of the blocks on the newer motors are siliconed together. This is bound to cause major oil leaks. The serviceability of these newer V8s suck as well as everything is layered together and tear downs are the norm to fix many issues. Old Toyota V8s 1994-2007 are ultimately the best motors they ever produced!
Send me the links for the 5.7 or 4.6 chain driven motors reaching 1 million K without major services. I and others will be waiting. I've worked on vehicles (especially Toyotas/Lexus) in the northeast for 20 years. Own several older V8 models myself. I speak from experience. Again post the links to these vehicles you speak of.
3UZ in the LS 430 is not a cast iron block, runs to 1M miles as well. The only iron block V8s are in 2UZ line up, I agree that Iron block is the way to go, but in high performance you cannot use that heavy block. RCF uses 2UR the only high performance Toyota/Lexus V8 in existence. It only has coolant valley plate leak if it happens, don't know though how long it will run or say mileage. The major factor is the VVTi system, non interference engines will last a lot than the interference ones.
Like is said 4.0L 4.3L AND 4.7L iron block. The 4.0L and 4.3L being aluminum block. But ALL are belt driven interference motors. That's what all these generation have in common. All related to each other in design and concept.
Yup 👍 we have two GX470’s and a 2jzgte swapped GS400. Don’t plan on owning any other vehicles, just gonna stick with 2 of Toyota’s best engines ever built.
My son chose to take my old '00 Tundra off to college. It's been on the road for over 25 years and 275k miles. I bought it when he was one, with 75k. Still solid as a rock. I replaced it with a like "new" '04 Tundra with 48k, and a GX470, because I NEED a truck for work. The GX is for fun.
I've had the pleasure to experience the 1UZ in a ls400. Owned that car for many years until rust got the best of it. Probably the best vehicle I have and will ever own. Toyota's golden years.
Not Iron block. 2UZ is the only Toyota V8 that uses Iron block and they did it because to help it hold the engine mount. Not some magical nonsense that AMD is telling here. And 2UZ is not some space age engine that will never break, it also has it's shortcomings.
Long time Toyota technician here. I have only seen one of these engines with the head gasket leaking coolant into a cylinder, except it was on the opposite bank on the #8 cylinder. So I thought I would let you know that it does happen on bank 2 as well.
AMD, I really appreciate your honesty and sharing your knowledge. Like many others, I wish your shop was closer. I wish that TOYOTA’s engineers would consult with you and other MASTER TECHS that have a legitimate platform to improve and better engineer repairs. I hope TOYOTA listens to you, not only on this but other issues. I say this because I’m retired from TMMK and think they’ve lost their way…. I hope you’re able to instill your expectations and work ethics into your employees. Keep up the great work! May GOD bless and keep you and your family 🙏
He is a mechanic, not an engineer. He said Aisin AA80E in RCF is a big let down and praising LC 500's heavy Aisin 10 spd that hunts for gears. IRL the RC F transmission can handle track abuse without overheating due to cooling radiators, plus it shifts lighting fast when you use S+ and Manual mode, dude did not even drive the car and trashed it. Again he is not an engineer. LC500 transmission is digi shifter plus too heavy for RC F chassis so it wont fit. Lexus will have to develop an entire new Carbon Fiber monocoque to handle that heavy brick. And why would they do that, when they already did LFA with Transaxle 1LR V10. It will cost them a ton of money. Toyota won't listen to anyone except their pockets, the company was in downward spiral ever since they discarded their motto of Lexus's "In the pursuit of perfection"
Bogus plastic intake manifolds leaking coolant is what caused the downfall of the 3.8 Buick V-6, an engine which was previously known for legendary reliability and longevity, and easily the equal of any Toyota V-6.
I have this engine type for a 2017 GX460, i am glad i told the dealer to do the coolant flush even though it was expensive (currently don’t have a garage to diy like I used to) thanks for this invaluable info
My sons 2014 Tundra SR5, 140k miles, exact same problem. Paid $12k to swap in a used 42k mile engine from a local salvage, 1 year warranty. As a GM LS owner, I had no idea Toyota 3UR-FE wasnt able to be remanned.
I own a 2015 tundra 5.7 I think the good news for tundra and sequoia owners is that there are many more that were wrecked because many more tundras sold. There is better availability of used motors
I would take any car I own to this man and i do all of my own work. He deserves the business just because he's a man of character and that's worth more than money.
There's a reason you have 1.2M subscribers. I hope you know we value your integrity!
Too expensive.
@@torobayoverpriced if you ask me 😬 ! but if your car if worth thousands more than the repairs and you have the extra money it’s probably pocket change for rich people
@@francissalazar2957 The thing is rich people don't watch him!
@@torobay You get what you pay for.
Lifelong(?) Coolant and transmission oil - change them sooner and often.
Respect. Being this upset on the owners behalf simply because it will be such a tough decision on getting it repaired properly shows how much integrity this shop has.
I put 770,000 miles on a 2012 4.6 Tundra doing oilfield type deliveries down here in Houston. I am vigilant with all of my fluids and was doing coolant drain and fills every 50k (miles) and transmission every 25k. The factory transmission died around 730.000 miles and I made the mistake by letting a small rebuilder rebuild it and it went back to his shop about 6 or 7 times. Had to sell the truck and was open and honest about transmission. I never had a head gasket failure but around 700k I started getting black buildup in expansion reservoir. I kept driving it all over the country and it never overheated on me. I'm not sure what was causing the buildup but possibly pinhole leak in head gasket. I'm currently on 220,000 on my 2nd 2014 4.6 Tundra. I really love the 4.6 engine and it works for me because I am not towing. I am now going to start doing 25k coolant drain after watching this video.
You might be a "tiny" shop in terms of square footage - but you're "Way Bigger" in terms of work ethic and customer service.
End of story.
No as big as Dave.
What an honest man who loves his Toyotas but is willing to call like it is. But also speaks in a language that is understandable.
Very rare these days.
They should hire him as a consultant to avoid problems in the first place. The new Toyota products look like Darth Vader styled them.
Thank you! I have that engine, lightly used so far, 80,000. I didn’t think much of coolant replacement, but NOW I will as well as shorten my oil intervals. You are a life saver!
6k mile oil changes... and consistent coolant flushes... saves your heater core, AND water pump... toyotas COOLANT has CHEMICALS IN IT to help with lubrication... but if old an go bad he's right the coolant will get acidic.
" Toyota recommends flushing the coolant in a vehicle every 30,000 miles or every two years. However, the interval may vary depending on the type of coolant used in the vehicle".
Yeah, me too - this same video made me realize yet again, how very unwise it is to actually take seriously the manuf "recommended service intervals" as they are far too long! I have a 2017 Lexus LS460 and had only 69,500 miles when I bought last year (for $36,500) - which means the car is new enough, that most maintenance I do will pay off long-term.
There's no such thing as "lifetime" coolant, lifetime ATF, or lifetime any other fluid! That's a lie, always has been, and I'm tired of pretending it isn't.
I repalce all the cooalnt every year.
@@derakbell8143 I'd say that might be over-kill, I've always gone two years between coolant changes (mainly because it just started to bug me too much after that much time elapsed with the same coolant) but, certainly nothing wrong with a yearly interval.
Used to be you would never think of simply doing a drain and refill, you'd use a chemical to flush the cooling system, then drain and refill until it came out clear. THEN add your coolant concentration (none of it was that 50/50 rip-off stuff either!). Now the wisdom is to only use distilled water to flush.
It's kind of nice to see a mechanic who's stressed out about the fact that he's thinking about the well-being of his customers. This happens to those who take their work seriously. I can learn a lot from you because you are not stingy with the knowledge you have, and it is huge. Thanks.
If one does not pass on their knowledge then that knowledge is worthless. All of us learned and taught back in the 60's because that is how Italians were back then, the best of the best...
He is HONEST and ETHICAL.
You are not some small insignificant shop! The work you and your team do restores our faith that there are honest and good mechanics out there! God Bless!
Absolutely agree!
I thought the same thing as soon as he said that. He’s special
Amen
I can tell Ahmed is a down to earth honest hardworking guy.....I can't say ho much I respect him as a person and trust his advice.
We value our vehicles and we need mechanics that feel the same way. We keep their shops open they keep us on the road.
Please record one of these from
Start to finish. You and this channel really help!
Your service to the Toyota community is invaluable
The fact that you took 25 plus minutes to explain to us what is wrong with this V8, thank you.
This guy is great because he is honest but I agree….. he stretches these video’s so long that I lose interest or fall asleep.
I skipped around and the content did not show progress so I quit in under a minute. I don't respect videos that don't "value my time".
I liked it.
His #passion for his job and his #passion for his customers came across Very Strong.
@beri232 Because he
- establishes a pattern of failure with proof
- details history and symptoms
- shows root cause
- pitfalls of traditional repair and mitigation
Just because your attention span is compromised doesn't mean others don't want to see a seasoned expert go over every scenario and solution.
@@Alacrity-reservedGet that Tik Tok attention span out of this well meaning, informative channel 😂
I am an old retired auto mechanic. My only claim to fame is I won the National Alfa Romeo Mechanic's Championship in 1986. I appreciate your in depth analysis and dedication to providing the best possible service to your customers. I am passing on a link to my former independent repair shop I worked for for 16 years in hopes that they too will be very careful about repairs in their future. God is a rewarder for those who do his will and diligently seek him. May God Bless you and help you is my prayer....Al Weseman
Coincidentally, I talked to a new Alpha Romeo owner. He had just traded in his Casper Milktoast white Tesla in on this beautiful vehicle. The interior blew me away. The dealership he used has 6 Teslas in the front row.
Angelo Panari owned Imported Motor Service on Hyde Street he came over to San Francisco because he was one of the Ferrari mechanics for Enzo Ferraries Formula cars, the Ferrari Dealership in San Francisco snatched Angelo up and hired him right up they brought his family over from Italy, they also gave him a apartment, car and he was givien a Green Card by the San Francisco Judge as the dealership guarnateed they were resonsible. I remember when he was working on one of Ferraries 12 cylinder blocks, he scrapped the crank shaft saddles using Prussin blue , he truely was a genius as he could lay his hands on the car and could tell in most cases what the problem was?
Angelo passed away about 2 years ago he was wrenching till he died I was trained by the Italians some of the very best Italian mechanics in the world, NO JOKE!
I was his partner till 1971 as San Francisco had become the illegl drug center of the USA along with the HIPPIE movement ?
Our shop could fix any foreign car on the road we also had a body shop where two Mexicans that were the very best body and paint men till Angelo gave up?
This has been an issue all along with Toyota. No one changes their antifreeze in America. It's how I got all my Toyota cars dirt cheap. Blown head gaskets due to corrosive antifreeze. I'd buy it and fix it and have a good beater car for years. My 2001 Tundra with the 4.7 never had this problem due to me changing the antifreeze regularly and probably because the block is iron.
It all comes down to one word... MAINTENANCE !
You sir are an honest and amazing man. Thank you for all the great videos.
Always tell the truth no matter how bad it is. AMD, you are a man of excellent integrity.
"You cannot over maintain these" is a quote everyone should follow.
that should be said about any vehicle you want to keep for a looong time.
Have been part time rebuilding engines since the late 60's and have observed this on numerous occasions. Simple answer is possible, but seems no one will be able to find. Old tractors used to employ soft copper head gaskets, and you could have quite a bit of warpage and they would seal fine. Actually look at some old manuals, the head gasket could be reused over and over. All you had to do is anneal the gasket and throw it back in. Today the only way to get a copper gasket, is most likely for a old 2 stroke motorcycle. They were common on old Suzuki's. Your last chance is to find a sheet of copper the correct thickness, hand cut the holes, then anneal. Have had to do this several times, trust me you are going to have tremendous labor time, and then buying the copper sheet is very costly. They will seal with several thousands of warpage, but again is it worth the effort.
My daily driver is a 2018 Buick Enclave Avenir AWD. It has 82k miles on it and has an extended warranty for 3 more years 43k miles. I took it to my mechanic, the dealer I bought it from and have proven themselves to be extremely trustworthy. I know the mechanic there that works on my cars personally. He called me and said, "hey! I saw your name on a service ticket that and wanted to tell you that we love owners like you in our shop." Then he said, "you're having all of the fluids replaced in the entire car!" He told me that my Buick looked and drove like brand new and spending the time or money to replace coolant, oil, transmission fluid, rear dif fluid, and brake fluid will make everything last wonderfully. He noticed that the front shocks were starting to leak just a tiny bit, which I asked them to check because I noticed it wasn't as smooth in the front lately and wanted them to inspect the control arm bushings, steering, and suspension. They quoted it to me, and I told them to take care of it. I thought my extended warranty was only a powertrain warranty. The service writer called me the next day asking for permission to call my warranty service. I asked him why and he said that I was wrong! My extended warranty is a bumper to bumper extended warranty!!! They called and got the approval to take care of the shocks for only my $100 deductible!!! These guys took it upon themselves to make sure I was right about my warranty and saved me over $2k because of doing more than I expected!!! I have worked on a ton of cars in my life and don't have the time or equipment to do it anymore. Having someone like you or like my dealer mechanics is priceless!!!! Honesty and integrity is priceless.
You got a great dealer there !
The only honest stealership I've ever heard of. Or, they have one or two specific customers that they're honest with.
I own a 06 Lexus (13 yrs) and a 1995 T100 (30 yrs now) . I have maintained them religiously! Coolant change, brake fluid change and 4k mileage oil changes. If something needs attention I fix it immediately. A few years back I was at a dealership talking to the service manager. He told me I was wasting my money changing oil so often. This video is music to my ears. It's reassuring to hear a master mechanic like CCN validate my thinking. Although I do not work on my vehicles anymore I still enjoy learning from this man.
Anyone telling you that you are changing the oil *too* often should not be considered as a viable source of any automotive information. That is an insane thing to say, especially to someone like you who has literal decades of ownership with your cars.
@@GageLawrinse Thank you for your reply. I bought the 1995 Toyota T100 with 4k miles in 1995. 170k miles now and honestly it runs like a top and is quite nice (SR5). 3400 V6 and no real issues. Gaskets, various hoses, front pads, steering controller leak, timing belts, with all factory original drive chain. Incredible.........
Nice! I have a 24 year old L.C. still going strong and a 35 year old Hilux with the 3.0 V6, still going strong, I use them both for what they are for, off-road exploring in the AZ, NV, CA. deserts- you take care of them they take care of you! The older ones of course...
that was your issue, even bothering to listen to someone who works at a dealership. they want you to blow your engine every 5 years to buy their next loan
I have 96 4Runner with 250k, bought new and maintain it myself. Oil changes every 3k miles, trans every 10k. Runs like new. My daughter drives it to college now. I’ve also used surface shield on the frame, no rust
That's the same problems on so many cars from so many brands. It's not the mech who decides the service schedule for a car, but the spread sheet accountant... And it shouldn't be so. As a consequence, these things happen more and more.
Thanks for taking the time to make this, and to share it!
Much appreciated.
Kind regards
Stretch the service intervals, tighten the tolerances and lower the oil viscosity all in the name of cheaper servicing and more mpg.
Engine coolant flush & refill with proper OEM coolant is a hell of a lot cheaper than a head gasket job or engine replacement or rebuild!
call me crazy but I drain and fill every 20k miles. At that interval, older coolant will get diluted and drain out by the next drain and fill. Same goes with ATF but at 30k.
@@Baebon6259 I'd call you "wise".
I thought a coolant flush was bad for the engine?
I drain and fill every 30k miles. My 05 Malibu V6 has 332k miles with no head gasket issues
@@DJR5280 Careful now, anything non-Toyota reaching 300k miles is taboo here.
This guy is on another level. I wouldn't bring my Toyota to anybody else.
Oh give me a break.
@@RoboticpycoticYou must be fun at parties.
@@Roboticpycotic As if he is the only qualified Toyota parts swapper in the U.S.. lol
it sounds like an expensive visit if he wants 23000 to rebuild a standard toyota engine.
Simp
Thanks! One of the best, informative channels on TH-cam!!😊
He’s an honest man, brought my 05 4Runner and wanted him to fix everything… I was ready to spend 10k… he did the oil change and checked everything… told me to use it for 2-3 years and sell it, which I did 4 plus years later and doing 2 months road trip, sold it at car max for 2k. Very thankful for his honesty. 17 years with minimal issues, and I was hard on the gas with that car, 5k rpm daily… 130mph 18mpg even at 17 years. Original x reas suspension, never failed emissions, will not overheat even with a gallon of coolant missing, miss that car.
Btw, when he told me the news, he did so in such a way like a good friend telling you about life decisions, he took time to explain it and talk to me like a good friend would, I really appreciate what he does.
Don’t ever sell to carmax. They are crooks.
Where is he located?
@@bettysmith4527i think I was there 2018 i think, not sure but he just opened his shop recently somewhere around the Orland Park suburb area or something close by. Southwest of Chicagoland.
I was very disappointed when he told me he wouldn’t fix my car, he checked the important things and did the oil change and told me the best thing to plan was to eventually get rid of it… after a few more years and doing a two month road trip to 18 states, I sold it at carmax for 2k with 230k miles… initially they offered 3k but after actual inspection they adjusted it.
The tyres were 5 months old… they basically bought the tyres and got the 4runner for free 😀
@@bettysmith4527Homer Glenn Illinois TCCN Automotive
First shop owner in history who doesn't want your Toyota to break down❤❤
Nah, there is a great place 90 min from me that are cruiser specialists. They go the extra mile because they love these vehicles.
I’m no longer a Toyota/ASE MAuto Tech , 11 years now. But I worked on a 07-08 Tundra valve dropped. I replaced the short block, bare head on the valve drop side, and so much more. 11 years now I do 99% less work at my new job. Thinking back, I don’t know how I did what you are still doing today, the human brain is marvelous, at the very least! Thanks for the great content!
Three of us bought 1985 Toyota Hilux's. After a 10K break-in per Toyota's specs they ate 2.5qt's of oil every 3K oil change. The dealer did an oil consumption test to confirm the use. The service writer informed us that they "were within spec." Two of us traded them on domestic trucks. The other walked up and down the sidewalk with a sign reading "My truck uses 2.5 qt's of oil every 3K." After several days of this the service manager came out. "You're getting a new short block." The tech doing the engine work told him that Toyota had a bad run of piston rings with insufficient pressure on the cylinder walls thus letting in oil from the pan into the combustion chambers. Toyota knew about the problem but wouldn't pay the dealer to remedy the problem. I guess my friend's sidewalk routine did it.
@@davidanderson8469 For the most part, my dealership took care of their customers. 2.5qt every 3k is a major oil consumption in anyone’s book. I’m glad you and your buddies had a happy ending story. One thing I can’t stand is seeing an upset customer, situational awareness is not dealerships priority at all, everything is about making a quick buck. To this day I still have nightmares when I dream of going back to work for my dealership, waking up is the best part and plus the day I quit my new job double my salary.
I am a retired engineer, and I always over-service my vehicles. I have always had Toyotas, and I have had trouble-free motoring. The coolant must be changed more often than the recommended time. Great video. I really enjoy a mechanic of your caliber explaining what has happened and how to fix it. Interesting to hear that we really cannot rebuild the modern engines like we used to do to the old ones. Great video , God Bless
.
How often would you recommend changing coolant by years / miles?
He said 50k miles or 5-years. That's still too long. I'm also a retired engineer and I replace coolant every 3-4 years or 30k miles. I do it every 2-years in my motorcycles. I don't care what the coolant maker or the car maker recommends. It's just not that expensive. Yes, there are autos out there that are extremely difficult to do a coolant change for a DIYer, and for those you should go to a reputable, capable shop. It'll cost what it costs, which is still a bunch less than a new engine. What's a few hundred dollars compared to $10k, $15k or $20k+ dollars. Just sayin... Auto engines are now very much a precision engineered and manufactured machine. Maintenance, regular maintenance, and more maintenance is super critical. You almost cannot over maintenance your auto.
@@tywal thanks! So informative. Appreciate it.
TY
You made this video a keeper 👍
@@tywalI agree and I follow my own maintenance schedule. Modem cars tell you the fluids last 100,000 or forever. I'm old enough to know that it's not true.
This man is an honest person who cares about cars, but more importantly, he cares about people.
His advice is sound. Don't underestimate what he's saying.
I bought my wife a 2024 Rav4 and since the dealership won't do my oil changes earlier than 10,000 miles, I forfeited those free oil changes, and I'm doing my own at home every 5,000 miles with better oil and I even did the first brake-in oil change at 500 miles just to be on the safe side.
It's totally worth the peace of mind and complete satisfaction.
He is honest.
He really does care about people.
As a mechanic, this is music to my ears. I work for an independent shop and customers think we're trying to scam them by suggesting 5-6k oil changes instead of the 8k or higher the dealership recommended depending on the brand. It's even worse with direct injection engines as aging oil evaporates more and will cake on the intake valves.
Folks, garages make pennies of profit on oil changes at best, the inspection is where it's at.
I did a DIY change myself at 5,000 miles, and let the dealer do the free oil change at 10,000 miles, then I did the next at 15,000.
why would a dealer not do them that makes no sense
You still have the oil changes coming every 10K. We're getting a 2024 CRV soon. I'll have the oil changed at 1000 miles.
Recently I purchased a high mileage 2014 Corolla (156,000 mi) and it seemed to have a head gasket problem. As it turned out ( I4 2AR) cylinder number 2 was "steam" cleaned just as your video shows for cylinder 7 on V8 UR. The steel gasket also shows the same "signs" of some kind of coolant "migration" into cylinder #2. In my case the head and block checked out OK as far as I could measure but I just didn't like the idea of putting time into fixing with the same type of steel gasket if I couldn't fix it for "good". Contrary to your "don't use a Felpro gasket" in July I did just that. So far at about 6,000 miles all is good. It took me an investment of 28 hours of my time and about $200 for all the items needed to do the job. I really respect you as a person as I can see that you really think about the customer and their situation. No doubt you will be seeing an increasing number of these.
I intellectually love how you honestly looked at the costs and pathways of doing it "right" for the customer, you sir are a real "GEM". Thanks for making this type of video, superb!
Like you say, the cost to repair is "more than the car is worth" is totally accurate to provide the perfect repair in an imperfect world. I think that ( as an engineering technologist ) the space between the cylinders is too small and perhaps the coolant passages should be "rethought".
My dad was a certified machinist and in his day he would do his utmost to make the repair "as good as it gets" but his skill and tools were only so good for the 1960's.
I was always amazed at what he would come up with, get away with, at such a low cost and that actually worked for years and years. But when dealing with customers, understanding is KEY.
So we shall let the "real world" decide if my head gasket repair will allow me to continue with the Corolla for another 10 years of life, I expect it will not be "clear cut". 🙏😃
When I first started watching you, the shop was spotless and near empty,
you had just opened. I was very impressed.
Now look at you, shop full of work, in progress and not so clean anymore.
I call that success and I salute you!
Hi AMD I totally respect all your mechanical abilities I love your videos. I have been a precision machinist and a mechanic for over 40 years you can precision lap that block and head very easily just get yourself a lapping plate. It is extremely easy you can lap off the high spots off both the block and the head and you will be amazed how easy it is and you will have no problem with the gasket sealing properly. Just get yourself a impregnated lapping plate so you do not have to worry about adding lapping compound. And with just a few swipes of the lapping plate you can knock off the high spots of both the block and the head you will be extremely happy. No machine shops needed. And you will not take off enough material to worry about the timing of the Engine. Trust me you are an excellent mechanic you can do this. You will save your customers a ton of money and also be doing fantastic work at the same time. One other thing the bigger the lapping plate the better but not so big that you can’t get it in the area where you need to lap the block.
Yes this. If it's only 0.002" from flat it's minimal work to lap it true.
I lapped the block on my 22re when I recently replaced the head gasket. Cast iron block, took a bit of elbow grease but helped me sleep at night.
Very true. This doesn't need another block or block machining
I have a similar background in machining and tool making and agree lapping would bring this engine back. I'd like to add that the amount of total "warpage" is less important than than the concentration of surface irregularity. A head or block with a gradual 0.002" bow in it will not be a problem because the head will flatten itself out to match the block no problem with little head bolt tension but a 0.002" hollow over an inch between the bores for example will not. I don't think people realize how floppy metal is when you start clamping it with bolts. I've measured the flexing of thick chunks of solid steel bending from only light clamping when the hold down clamps are only slightly off from being directly over the parallels underneath.
1000%
I second this! As a Subaru hobbyist I have hand surfaced the blocks for exactly this issue. The key for you is going to be time management. Get an aggressive block and a fine block to save time and still achieve the correct RA value.
As a 20 year veteran of working at a Honda dealership, I can say that you are 100 percent correct with all of your knowledge and responses. I tip my hat to you! Some of the older Hondas had the same issues with the aluminum blocks. And just like you say, there are a few options for a proper repair. However, they are usually very expensive. Thank you for sharing your knowledge about the Toyota engines. ✌️
I feel car care nut is the Technician I never had. He's seems patient, very clear, and thorough with an explanation of why parts fail. The art of being a technician. If only my past fellow technicians were like this at the dealerships.
I have seen old coolant eat up an intake manifold on a car with only 100,000 miles on it . Don't forget to change your coolant especially if you want to keep your car .
You can flatten the deck on that engine using sand paper, contact cement and solid surface countertop material. There are TH-cam videos on it. I have flattened out decks that were up to .004. You do the best you can and put a new gasket on it and you are good for another 100k. You're a mechanic fix it. The new cars have a lot of problems, auto techs certainly have their job security. Thanks for another great video
I'm a Machinist and I feel your pain! I can see where the acidity of the coolant has degraded the coating on the head gasket. Why only on one side of the engine is a mystery. You need a granite surface plate to check the head for flatness, not just a straight edge. Use Dykem Hy-spot blue as it will give you a great image. You can also do the same thing to the block with a parallel bar.
You can scrape the surface of the block in place to fix a slight low spot. It's tedious work, but better than removing and disassembling the engine! Some things are not easy, and this is one of them. Are the thicker head gaskets Toyota/Lexus parts or aftermarket like Cometic?
I passed on a 2011 Sequoia over a year ago because the engine had been redone due to blown head gasket. It had 190,000 miles on it and the owner didn't bother to tell me it had been done until I had paid for an pre-purchase inspection. Upon inspection there was slight coolant leak found but nothing visible on the ground. Took a hard pass on that Sequoia. ALWAYS, always get a PPI!!
Smart man! 👍
I have owned 6 different Chevys from 1970 to 2001 and pulling heavy soars up to Canada 🇨🇦 and from Seattle to eastern Washington, one that I know is still on the road with over 300,000 miles and the heads have never been off 4.3 v6 one of the best engines ever❤️👍😎
I hear ya! 5 years ago our son drove our 1995 Astro when the water pump failed and lost all coolant. He kept driving - thought the temperature gauge was wrong. Got so hot it set a code saying the temperature sensor circuit shorted!! Put on a new water pump, reset the code, and the van acted like nothing ever happened. Now has over 300K miles, drove it today. Doesn't even use oil between changes. Its a beater I wouldn't take very far out of town, but hasn't needed anything except routine maintenance for the last 2 years. Can't beat cast iron! (Also one of the reasons I love love love GM 3800s!) Since this is a Toyota channel, have to also brag on daughter's 1999 Camry V6 - 306K and runs like a dream. 1MZ-FE will go forever if you care for them. But NEVER overheat an aluminum engine.
AMD, I wish you lived in the southeast so I could take my car to you. I sincerely admire your integrity and attention to detail. Cars are becoming so complicated and maintenance is becoming so essential. All the while, manufacturers tell the public tall tales about 10,000 mile oil changes, "miracle" 100k mile coolant and "lifetime" transmission fluid. SMH.
Toyota dealer service dept. I worked at in the 90s would not change coolant on used vehicles. Reason: nobody ever looks when buying so why. Really? I was gone within 6 months. BTW, you are the best.
Honestly RickCampbell I can't blame them for not doing that. It would cost them a fortune to do it and most cars (supposedly) come with "lifetime" coolant anyway. I know that's a lie, you know it's a lie, but it's exactly how every used car dealer will treat the cars and that's what I always assume. The first thing I do on a new-to-me car, is assume the previous owner's never done a thing to the car except put gas in it. And then I change all the fluids myself.
Bless you and thanks for the videos! Just started watching your videos a few months ago. My wife has a 2015 Highlander XLE with 145k miles, I just purchased a 2015 ES 350 with 50k miles, thanks to your videos I have changed my maintenance schedules for both, with the head gasket issues you have shown
I have implemented 5k mile oil changes and yearly coolant drain and fills, and also yearly transmission drain and fills. "You can't over maintain your engines" I love that quote! Hopefully will have years of reliable service with these 2gr-fe engines and transmissions.
This man is absolutely one of the top ten mechanic in the world! Unfortunately I live in EU and cant take my Toyota to him for repairs. I am cursed with mechanics who barely knows how the engine works.
good mechanics that work on engines are expensive
Thank you so much for this video. I feel horrible for this owner. My dad is a retired mechanic from the 70's he retired in the 20teens. He started telling me back in the day when he started to see manufacturers start pushing the limits of maintenance intervals and changing engine block metals from Iron to Aluminum that these are ticking time bombs that are throw away one time use engines. I have a 22 GX UR V8 and 23 4Runner 1GR V6. He laughed and said nice motors! Remember their short maintenance interval if you want to keep them! Thank you AMD, show this video to everyone when they want to save on an oil or coolant change. God Bless!
Finally, a great mechanic that takes pride in his work and actually takes the time to lay all the parts out in order instead of throwing them in a pile on a dirty floor! He deserves respect!
Coolant can become both acidic and begin to carry an electrical charge that will promote electrolysis.
In a metal environment that has a current running through it (like an engine block), the differing metals are always trying to reach equilibrium at a molecular level. Galvanic corrosion. One metal will give up those atoms. As those atoms begin flowing through the coolant, the coolant increases its capacity to carry an electrical charge thus furthering galvanic corrosion.
Flush that coolant folks. It’s cheap and you can do it at home. Be sure to burp the air pocket when the thermostat opens.
They used to sell a small zinc ingot you hung inside the radiator filler neck, they called it a "sacrificial anode" or something like that. When that ingot started to corrode, you knew you'd gone too far on your coolant. But obviously you'd be better off just changing coolant.
This is a man of Integrity, a gem of a human being, a very rare phenomenon nowadays…..
I have 407,000 on my 2015 Tundra zero issues. 342,000 on my Tundra before this one, again with zero issues. YES... BRING BACK THE V8
250k miles on my 2007 tundra and 152k miles on my 2020 tundra. Never had any issues with either one so far and zero oil leaks. Never replaced any seals or gaskets on either one yet.
Awesome take care of them and they will last I changed my starter out last year for the first time and changed my alternator today for the first time... by the way that was a nightmare...lol
@@johnwest2396 everything looks like a nightmare lol. But that sounds promising. I should be good for another 100k and 200k on both mine
The only thing I've replaced a mine so far is a starter, alternator and my Master brake cylinder was leaking
The latest Tundra's and Takoma's ARE NOW DESINGED BY LAID OFF GENERAL MOTORS engine designers. THE NEW JAPANESE ENGINES ARE AS BAD A DETROIT JUNK...!
Thank you and as always an eye opener. My 2UR V8 gave out too and ironically it’s what led me to discover your channel several months ago as I was trying to figure how it all went wrong. Now with my new Toyota I’m much the wiser thanks to you, hope to get better luck this time around. May you be blessed a thousand times over, you’re the epitome of a true gentleman and a scholar. 🙏🏾
What was the issue with your 2ur?
@@IH8Sn0wFal lost compression on two cylinders. Dropped borescope and there was bore scoring. I was experiencing gradual loss of coolant over time, misfire at cold start accompanied by white exhaust smoke. Interestingly once engine warmed up symptoms would clear up, I believe due to thermal expansion whatever gap was in the gasket would reseal and compression would go back up
Im glad you addressed root cause. Change your coolant, oil, transmission fluid on or before recommended manufacture intervals.
Except he didn't. If coolant alone was the problem other passages would be failing.
@@UZJ60but he showed the other passages on their way to failure by eating through the gasket
@@asplmn if his explanation was accurate, and he'd seen as many as he's reporting, it's statistically unlikely that they'd keep hitting #5 and #7 unless other factors are at play. Something isn't lining up.
Thank you for your insights. 50k mi coolant intervals & 3k oil intervals. Got it!
Out here in Southern AZ, we used a radiator shop that was in business for over 35 years. The owner advised us to flush the engines cooling system at 5 years or every 50,000 miles. In addition, he recommended the use of distilled water with the coolant concentrate or just using the premixed OEM coolant. The radiator cap and thermostat should be replaced at the same 5 year/50,000 mile interval.
Your last 2 sentences make no sense starting after 50,000 miles and at the "In addition"
@@08turboSS They made sense to me. What don't you get?
It's important to use distilled water with your coolant as tap water contains minerals and will cause sediment build-up.
Machinist here, have you tried precision lapped stones on the face of the cylinder block? Not a stone, a diamond lapped stone. if that doesn't show you the high spot, lapping/grinding the cylinder block isn't a big deal for any reputable machine shops. They can measure it on their CMM or granite table and indicator and get a dimension before they grind/lap, then measure it again to give you the finished dimension and flatness. Either go with a tool and die shops, or aerospace shops. I would avoid automotive machine shops.
I lap mine on 10mm float glass. It's the cheapest flat surface you can buy. Only to clean it up if already flat. If it's wrapped from overheating is gonna need machining with a flycutter.
Automotive machine shops are typically owned by ego driven individuals that have zero desire to listen to their customers. They do things the way they want to and get really upset if you ask for anything to be done in a certain way. I learned this quote some time ago and experienced it at every automotive machine shop I've been to.
Yeah for the kind of money here I would get the block machined to fix the 0.002" flatness, or just put a new head gasket in it. It is in spec.
The issue with this is that you can't just remove those 2 thousands(or more), plus any possible material off of the cylinder head and then just slap a thicker gasket. You may have compromised the very physical dimensions of the combustion chamber and valve train and will need to deal with that, as well as possible valve height problems and even requiring valve seat work, not to mention vvti issues and incorrect fuel ignition and compression due to the modified combustion chamber potentially causing a myriad of problems. I've seen more than a few vehicles that were brought in the shop in my many years as a tech after major repairs and machine shop work, misfiring and with ses lights on only for their respective owners to be told that they need a new engine due to deck height measurements being out of spec due to machining. These high tolerance engines along with their respective supporting systems do not allow you to get away with much. These are not the same engines from yesterday.
Good luck finding a aerospace machine shop that would touch a engine block. Most are just cnc manufacturers now.
My Tundra 5.7 2012 model just over 100,000 miles on, it had a blown head gasket.
it was cylinder #8 had blown just like this video!
the funny thing is that I had radiator flushed with radiator flusher machine on 80,000 miles.
First sign of blown head gasket was misfiring on cyl #8 on cold start.
I though it was a ignition coil or plugs. So i had replace all coils and plugs, but continue misfire but no over heat. even coolant level has not dropped.
My mechanic told me that the head on 3ur engine cannot be resurfaced.
My mechanic had sent to the head shop to check any sign of warp, luckily no damage and block wasn't warped.
The engine shop also found that one of the valve spring was broken, so I ended up change all the springs and basically rebuild engine.
cost was 10,000 dollars.
Now my car runs fine, but i am scared that this might happen again.
Great video! I’d add a piece of personal opinion:
If you go back and look at those gaskets, they’re not JUST metal. They’re also coated in what’s referred to as an “encapsulant”. This is intended to fill the microscopic pores (grain) that exist natively in metals. An alternative example of this would be heat sink compound on a CPU.
I have theorized that several manufacturers have been victims of a poor quality encapsulation on their gaskets. After all, these gaskets are usually made by others. I’ve seen these types of failures on multiple manufacturers and as the OP states, when it exists, there tends to be a pattern. I’d further speculate that a mild overheat could also be the cause of this. Some of the cheaper encapsulants start to break down quickly around 300F.
I don't have experience in machining an engine block but I ben working in a machine shop for 36 years . I would try someone who has experience in lapping . Using a lapping plate you could take the high spots off and bring the overall flatness closer to what you will be comfortable with . Not perfect but closer . And you could do it without removing the engine block from the car.
When I'm working on rebuilding motors on my project cars (Volvos), if the head is not pitted or warped, I wet sand it perfectly flat with 400 grit taped to a piece of home window glass. I check the blocks as well but I've not seen one warped on my project cars. After I clean it up, put it together with new torque yield bolts and it seals up great.
God bless you Sir you are the most honest mechanic on the planet.
Car Care Nut, can you either move here to Vancouver or train a thousand mechanics to share the love around the world? You're what every car mechanic needs to and should be.
I wish we had AMD here in Vancouver, i would take my Toyotas to him exclusively
You better rob the regional bank first!
@@mikek.9980 Hint? Where I live a replacement would run $3,974 plus parts, 538 dollars = $4,512 plus tax = 360.00 for a total of $4,872 his $5,000 figure is not far off. That's for 1 side.
Well, if nothing else, you just convinced me that I need to change my coolant on my 2016 Tacoma. I thank you much.
My 1UZ LS400 has had no maintenance from the prev. owner from 100k miles to 220k. It's teaching me a lot about cars, which I know very little, I've changed the alternator, power steering pump, high pressure lines, radiator, and I am about to fix a oil leak caused by a faulty oil pan leak. This car hasn't had any fuel injector or spark plug maintenance, or much of any maintenance until my mom got a hold of it, and now at 270,000 miles, she gave it to me after my 300zx blew a head gasket, and she bought a new car. The 1UZ is a tank, and is so underrated. I see some LS400s on Offerup for only a couple grand, be it at 200k miles, but they can run for much more than that. Very underrated.
I don’t even own a Toyota but I’m fascinated by this video and now I know why the phrase “blowing a gasket” exists lol😅
Everytime I watch your stuff, i learn something. I'm just blown away by your honest and work ethics, it's unbelievable.
Mercedes/BMW engine builder here. German engines have marks which show the maximum machining for both the block and heads. The cam gears allow for up to 5 degrees +/- adaptation to compensate. For $23k for a short block I would Darton sleeve it and step deck the block, problem solved. I build 1,000+ AMG engines for reference. Currently I have a new M177 63AMG V8 for rebuild.
fascinating!😃
Prove it you have worked on 1000 AMG engines?
So you work on the worst, most overly complex engineered junk engines ever created.
That's just sad.
I wouldn't take ANY euro trash vehicle if you gave it to me for free.
Their track record for reliability, longevity, and holding their value are abysmal.
@@riverpirate1022 Mercedes Benz SLS would like to have a word with you. They use that engine in the GT3 racing still to date 6.3L NA V8 beast, I love Lexus V8 but Merc engine in that SLS is ultimate V8 it's having Transaxle and on top the engine is the only reliable modern V8, old W series Merc cars are also solid. I have an RC F myself by the way. Toyota POS is not that great either, LS is not possible to own anymore because it's too old to maintain. And latest yota's are garbage. The only Toyota I would buy that also has flaws of stupid paint is 4Runner.
no thanks. these newer cars...are TOOO COMPLICATED...and too much being squeezed out of them...and LOW interval oil-coolant services.....throw away......... such high numbers when buying...and worthless when these problems occur.
early 2000's were easier times.
AMD, Do you ever pause for a moment and ask yourself if we can actually handle the truth before you tell us the truth because I have my doubts. 🤔😉🤣 Since I am never in a hurry, I have stated several times that my favorite 200 and 300 Series Land Cruiser engine is the 1GR-FE 4.0 V6. Too bad they never sold them in our market. On a positive note, your channel has taught me the valuable lesson to be less jealous of high end Toyotas with V8s. My humble, 126 hp 1ZZ-FE engine looks better with each passing decade.😁
29.95😂
1zz are oil burners. 1GR is in 2nd gen tacomas and 4runners since 2010.
Have to LS swap it I guess LOL
So basically Toyota cant build a v6 or v8?
AMD, there must be an honest review of the current and every prior ownership. I understand that most owners are not mechanically inclined
I purchased our Sequoia with 178K miles from the very first owner, now while near 200K, engine is stil perfect and I had no doubt she will remain in my fleet for so much needed towing power and air suspension.
Didn't realize having a small shop determined your mechanical ability. Good to know. I'll look into expanding to up my game 😏
I listened to this a second time to make sure I understood the important point. He said the measured warpage is 0.0021. The specification is 0.00257. The block is within factory specifications. He is justified to install a new head gasket on this engine. As he said, there is some risk. He needs to talk with the customer and explain the situation and ask the customer if he wants to take a $5,000 risk on a new head gasket where Toyota says it is within tolerance. I suspect he did just that with his customer. He may want to consider making a cleaning cut on the head to make it perfectly flat. This will eliminate the possibility of additive warpage of both head and block throwing the total warpage out of tolerance resulting in another head gasket leak. This guy is a perfectionist and is the best.
The block is within specification, I would expect that Toyota engineers know that the gasket can accommodate the warp up to the point on the specification the block may have had the existing warp at the time of manufacture. It pasted 190k. I would not be afraid of doing the job. Closely inspect the head as you suggest is a good idea. Of low at the failure point grind it flat.
@robertjohnson4401 I think you missed a couple of points. One, his experience has educated him that a new gasket will NOT result in a "good as new" result, even though the block is within spec, so he felt obligated to inform the customer, allowing the customer to make an informed decision. Two, he will not touch the block to flatten it because of potential damage, which he explained - again, a risky move.
@@bobblack3870 I did not miss either of your two points. I agree he should not touch the block. I said he could see if the head flatness could be improved to improve the outcome. As far as his experience with the block warpage being within tolerance and his bad experience to the contrary, I said he needs to talk with the customer and inform him that Toyota says it is within specification but he has seen bad outcomes with the current warpage. The customer can make the decision.
Warpage isn't always an issue. The head will clamp down and the head gasket will take up the void.
In fact, I've read the factory service manual for Mercedes M272 and they said the head will be slightly bowed and the head bolts will actually straighten it out😂
This is how, over time, we as car owners are all paying the price for ridiculous environmental regulations which force manufacturers to lighten all parts of a vehicle, including an aluminum engine, consequently making them less robust and unreliable over time. This equates to more financial burden on the car buying public in having to purchase a new vehicle sooner than later or a repair that entails extravagant labor and parts costs. The government in its infinite wisdom of trying to fix one problem via regulation creates another in ‘throw-away’ vehicles flying in the face of sustainability, disposal issues, not to mention manufacturing materials and energy required to build new vehicles.
thank god i didn't get a second gen sequoia last year, i was shopping for a sequoia and was torned in between 1st and 2nd gen, i was leaning forward the 5.7 v8 just because of the power and torque alone. then i did more reading and research on the 1st gen, and learned about how reliable it is especially the 04-07. i would love to get an 05-07 one but found an 04 in excellent condition, low mileage and the timing belt and waterpump just got done, and car fax report is good. i pulled the trigger on the 04 sequoia, and im never happier, after doing some normal maintenace, plugs, oil, fluid, trans fluid,coolant, radiator, the hippo is driving wonderfully, ac is ice cold, up hill, down hill, rough road, nice road , this thing handle it all. and it has so much room. i love my first gen sequoia.
240k on my 2001 Sequoia, excellent trucks. Just check the ball joints, t-belt, and I personally found out that the heater t replacement is needed. You probably should do it simply due to age. Mine disintegrated upon touch and for $33, an hour of time, and topping off/bleeding coolant it's well worth it.
@@christopherclark4774 i did replaced the lbj with oem lbj, and i also did the t-shape heater hose adaptors, i replaced 2 with the metal ones. timing belts was replaced by the previous owner, i replaced the seprentine belt, radiator, hoses, plugs , oil and all fluids.
What a sincere and honest guy.....far and few between. God bless
Lack of coolant changes kills lots of engines. Looking at you, Dexcool. All my vehicles get coolant changes every 5 years at the most.
We at GM would call Dexcool "Dexkill" especially the recalled coolant or old worn out coolant 😉,seen it eat right thru the aluminum thermostat housings & throttle body assemblies on Opel & Holden engines as well as domestic GM powerplants
I do coolant changes EVERY 60,000 miles or 4 YEARS (no ifs ands or buts). And only OEM TOYOTA fluid goes in there! Yes, Toyota calls it “super long life ….blah blah blah” 🙄 , but at the end of the day it’s a fluid, and not all that expensive. A damaged engine block on the other hand ……no brainer!
@@747-pilot My Lexus GS350 says 100K, then 50K. I recently did it at 100K (was used) . Got most of the coolant out but like 3/4 gal left over. May drain that amount and put that in.
@@747-pilot Old school green antifreeze is perfectly adequate for use in any engine. Ive been using it (or old pink Zerex back in the day) and never had issues. The weak newer engines with aluminum heads are the issue. not the coolant.
I do coolant changes about once every 3 months. Because my waterpump leaks. So I don't have this problem.
Great video AMD!
The head gasket in my 2007 5.7L 3UR failed in cylinder #7 at 316,000, my mechanic discovered cylinder wall scoring once it was torn down so I had to shop for another long block because few shops know how to rebuild these correctly. I found an '08 3UR with about 80k and bought it from the original owner that had replaced the engine with a 3UR built for superchargers and racing.
My mechanic tore this low mileage engine down for inspection and discovered that the head gasket in this engine was on it's way to a future failure in cylinder #7 as well. My low mileage 5.7L has new head gaskets and I will change the coolant every 40k or 4 years going forward. There is a company based in Florida that has an excellent reputation for building 'race' capable 3UR engines ~ XAT Racing, maybe they can help you and your customers. I am in no way affiliated with XAT Racing. There is also a person (JoeJoe) on the west coast that can import low mileage 3UR JDM Land Cruiser engines from Japan, he may also be able to help.
Get a horse !😅
@@frankalfonso7070
No!
Thank you for this video. My UZ has 352k miles, still purring like a kitten as my daily driver for 17 years!
Not too many mechanics left that actually care like this guy does!!
My GX 550 w V6 is at dealership after 4k miles, they told me it needs new one just like tundras
That’s why I got 05 100 series. Very happy with it. It clocked 175k. I am taking to you next month for checkup.
The only way this could be any better is if he opened a Toyota tech school so idiots like me could learn how to wrench.
Much respect brother and keep up the great job. You are indeed a treasure.
Should everyone have to be a master mechanic just to survive? That's why I hate car dependent USA culture. I don't even LIKE cars but as a man I know WAY more about cars than most people, because I have to. My survival depends on me getting to work and getting places and in this country I need a car.
Why I like the old all iron V8 engines means no warpage and cam in block, short timing chain lasts forever..
Thank you very, very much for the detailed explanation. I have an ‘11 with 145K+ and have, now, decided to keep oil changes to every 5K, not 6K to 7K and a coolant flush every 45K to 50K, with the next one in October. 👍
9:29 Bro brought out the receipts, literally 🤣🤣
Like a pissed off teacher returning math tests😂
@@mad-meh2719 😀
😂 word! My man is a beast, especially keeping record 👌🏻
If you machine a bunch off the head and block without compensation you also increase the compression ratio and reduce the distance of the the plug and valves to the top of the piston.
That's when he goes thicker head gaskets
I watched this video, walked out to my 2016 LC200, rifled thru the glove compartment for my Lifetime Powertrain Warranty paperwork and gave it a hug.
Roll the dice. Replace the head gasket, overtorque by 3-5% and run it. Gaging warpage with a straight edge with feelers vs on a surface plate are 2 different animals. .001 over 20" is really small and compounding errors, straight edge tolerance and the feel of the gage leafs all needs to be considered. Head gasket construction and the material densities, even between manufacturers can be a crap shoot. Once upon a time, copper headgaskets and spray on copper particals were common. Your concerns over your reputation and liability are warranted. Great insight and ethics. Very refreshing.
100% brother. At this point, this far into it, that's the way I would go. Some prayers at night and let her rip!
I'm a BMW technician most "blown head gaskets" we get is usually consequential to an overheating . We call them "baked" engines we really don't repair them it needs a long block. Once we get them torn apart we find more anomalies besides a warped block everything is compromised from sleeves extract, oil starvation to bearings, scored cylinders, cracked blocked behind the sleeves( lately those are absolute), head threads that pull out when torquing etc etc
hmm..the smell of N63 engines with valve seal leaks and head gasket crapping out as well as everything else going to crap..the memories of a quart every 200 miles..this is why I bought the LC500 next
Yup, that is truth with just about every modern auto engine. Overheat it, blow a head gasket, best to junk the engine. That coolant leak somebody kept topping off, and then overheated it 🤣They should have spent $500 on the new radiator.
I have a 1996 Ford Ranger Splash, 3.0 V6, 5 spd manual, with 300K Kilometers on it, and never touched the engine. Replaced a water pump, alternator, clutch, batteries, and did a tune up on it at 180K, but other then that, still running, like new. Does not burn oil, leak oil, leak antifreeze. Best engine and vehicle I have ever owned, and I am 69.
Ouch! I don’t feel bad now that I changed antifreeze in my Sequoia at 50K and always oil change at 5K. Just short of 30K verses what fluid changes cost it is a no brainer.
My son's Mazda 4 wacker had a blown head gasket last year. His car is a 2014 SUV. It did cost over $5K.
I guess I should be really happy that I bought a 2003 4Runner 4.7L V8 for $7K with 201,000 miles with no leaks.
In the old days, we'd shave the heads and be happy with increased compression! Ah, the good old days.
That 4.7 is a UZ engine, the good one.
@@silicon212yes, cast iron block 2002-2004
Remember the 100k miles or 7 years interval for the timing belt, this and a broken radiator are the only things that can kill that V8 easily
@@paulsteverodriguez3549 The 1UZ through 1993 or thereabouts is a non interference engine, so if the timing belt broke, obviously that would be a bad day but at least you won't need to rebuild the engine. Slap a new belt kit on it and go.
@@silicon212 i was replying the guy who mentioned son’s 4Runner, v8 4Runner have 2UZ not 1UZ so timing belt is super important
I have a 2011 Tundra TRD limited Crew max with the 5.7. I bought it in 2021 with 232,00 miles. Now close to 270,000 miles. I change the oil and coolant religiously. I also have some other modifications to the truck. Thank you for the information. 🙏🏻 I will keep that much more track of the truck now. You just can't find these 5.7 engines anymore unless they are used or "reman".
Even Toyota's can blow a gasket.
At 200k miles a lot of other cars are not worth saving, but Landcrusers are capable
of spaceship milages.
Exactly. A fellow in Louisiana will soon be hitting the 1 million mile mark with his Tundra 5.7 V8.
.....guess you didn't see the part where he said $23,000 fix.
@@edriley1516 Compared to the price of a new Landcruiser, it may seen a lot to pay
but better than buying a load of trouble.
Spaceship milages? Is that after or before the BLOWN HEAD GASKET/NEW ENGINE!
Did you not watch the whole video😂
Is Toyota becoming a victim of its own success?
Part of it is owner negligence.
No.
If I’m reading your question right your are implying Toyota is building cars so reliable they are cannibalizing potential future sales.
Toyota was the number one most profitable automaker in the world. Number two in the United States only behind GM. They’re doing just fine.
This is a 2013. The vehicles they make today are getting recalled.
already did, probably 10 years ago. Still better than other manufacturers. At one time, you could buy Toyota anything, and you knew you were getting the highest quality, best design, and the company would stand by it. But starting in the early 2000s, you needed to do a little research and not pick the one bad model in Toyota's lineup. At this point, one has to be real careful choosing, if they want a 300k capable car. Toyota's best right now: 2024 Rav4, 2024 Prius, and 2024 4runner. Everything else disappoints one way or another. The twin turbo heavy vehicles are a real disappointment.
Complacency is always a risk during/after extended success. One of our flaws as humans. I think the answer to your question is "yes". We can't see "behind the boardroom doors" but we can see more than a few recent corporate decisions that seem inadvisable or overconfident.
My 2 UZFE actually blew up because of a head gasket leak that Hydro lock the engine with coolant. nothing is immune. I took excellent care of it as well.
How common is this problem really? The Tundra came out with the 5.7 V8 in 2007 and continued until 2021, about 14 years, and thus there are over 1 million Tundras sold with that engine that have never had this problem. There are even several Tundras with the 5.7 V8s that have gone over 1 million miles without this problem, and there are hundreds (or maybe thousands) of them that have 500k or more miles without this problem. Maybe it is a bad batch of head gaskets. I have been on the Tundra forums for years (a decade) and I have never seen or heard of this problem. If you add up all the other Toyota vehicles with this engine, and variations of it, it seems to be a very rare problem.
Very true
I think the real issue is people not checking their coolant enought. These trucks do develope common leaks like the water pump, radiator, and valley plate. If we are being honest most people do not check their vehicles on a regular basis. They just say, its a toyota, what can go wrong, before you know it the heads/block are warped and the head gasket doesn't seal anymore. Then they fill it up with coolant and take it to the mechanic and say, i don't know what happened, it just started misfiring all of sudden.
@@jesserodriguez5308 Excellent point. Those head gaskets can go to crap if they get cooked from being too hot.
Shitty batch of head gaskets
Agreed! I can't believe this is a new problem. It would be nice if he gave some history of these blown gaskets i.e. how old the coolant was, maintenance history, mileage. These could be just abused vehicles that never touched their coolant. This vid has a whole FB group of Sequoia owners going crazy! I just tested my 40k+ coolant and its right in the middle of the pH scale.....no sign of acidity------> Not worried.
we had that kind of problems with most modern all-aluminium engines. Luckily I live in a country where nobody cares about emission regulations so I just delete the catalytic converter, replace radiator cap with a lower pressure one and put thicker oil 😉
man I love how much detail you talk about in your videos... in a world of 10 second reels, I love long detailed videos like this.
4.0L 4.3L and 4.7L iron block belt driven Toyota V8s are the only way to go. Everything after was built on a compromise. Never perfection. 1 million mile Tundras etc. all used these motors. Smoother, more reliable, quieter. Chains must be lubricated by oil. So the entire front covers of the blocks on the newer motors are siliconed together. This is bound to cause major oil leaks. The serviceability of these newer V8s suck as well as everything is layered together and tear downs are the norm to fix many issues. Old Toyota V8s 1994-2007 are ultimately the best motors they ever produced!
You're wrong....there are multiple 5.7 V8's at over 1 million miles. Actually more 5.7's than 4.7's. Both are very reliable motors.
Send me the links for the 5.7 or 4.6 chain driven motors reaching 1 million K without major services. I and others will be waiting. I've worked on vehicles (especially Toyotas/Lexus) in the northeast for 20 years. Own several older V8 models myself. I speak from experience. Again post the links to these vehicles you speak of.
m.th-cam.com/video/TL7fyyUNRmA/w-d-xo.html
Here is a 2007 new body style that is famous. BUT it has the UZ iron block 4.7L belt driven motor.
🤣
3UZ in the LS 430 is not a cast iron block, runs to 1M miles as well. The only iron block V8s are in 2UZ line up, I agree that Iron block is the way to go, but in high performance you cannot use that heavy block. RCF uses 2UR the only high performance Toyota/Lexus V8 in existence. It only has coolant valley plate leak if it happens, don't know though how long it will run or say mileage. The major factor is the VVTi system, non interference engines will last a lot than the interference ones.
Like is said 4.0L 4.3L AND 4.7L iron block. The 4.0L and 4.3L being aluminum block. But ALL are belt driven interference motors. That's what all these generation have in common. All related to each other in design and concept.
I can see a real need for an LS swap kit for those big Toyotas. Just think how much easier they would be to work on and maintain.
I was thinking the same thing. A swap like that would make sense. A reliable 6.2 or cammed 5.3 with ported heads
Stuck a LS3 EROD in my 1990 FJ62. Thing is a monster 👍
Cylinder head deck height has always been of monumental importance. Even in the old hot rod building days. Great coverage. Thx
2uz is the king of longevity.
Yes sir! Own one myself and love it!
Yup 👍 we have two GX470’s and a 2jzgte swapped GS400. Don’t plan on owning any other vehicles, just gonna stick with 2 of Toyota’s best engines ever built.
350k on my 04 4rnr with 2UZ
My son chose to take my old '00 Tundra off to college. It's been on the road for over 25 years and 275k miles. I bought it when he was one, with 75k. Still solid as a rock. I replaced it with a like "new" '04 Tundra with 48k, and a GX470, because I NEED a truck for work. The GX is for fun.
My GX470 is one of the best purchases I ever made.
I've had the pleasure to experience the 1UZ in a ls400. Owned that car for many years until rust got the best of it. Probably the best vehicle I have and will ever own. Toyota's golden years.
Not Iron block. 2UZ is the only Toyota V8 that uses Iron block and they did it because to help it hold the engine mount. Not some magical nonsense that AMD is telling here. And 2UZ is not some space age engine that will never break, it also has it's shortcomings.
Long time Toyota technician here. I have only seen one of these engines with the head gasket leaking coolant into a cylinder, except it was on the opposite bank on the #8 cylinder. So I thought I would let you know that it does happen on bank 2 as well.
AMD, I really appreciate your honesty and sharing your knowledge. Like many others, I wish your shop was closer.
I wish that TOYOTA’s engineers would consult with you and other MASTER TECHS that have a legitimate platform to improve and better engineer repairs. I hope TOYOTA listens to you, not only on this but other issues. I say this because I’m retired from TMMK and think they’ve lost their way….
I hope you’re able to instill your expectations and work ethics into your employees.
Keep up the great work!
May GOD bless and keep you and your family 🙏
everybody has lost their way now
He is a mechanic, not an engineer. He said Aisin AA80E in RCF is a big let down and praising LC 500's heavy Aisin 10 spd that hunts for gears. IRL the RC F transmission can handle track abuse without overheating due to cooling radiators, plus it shifts lighting fast when you use S+ and Manual mode, dude did not even drive the car and trashed it. Again he is not an engineer. LC500 transmission is digi shifter plus too heavy for RC F chassis so it wont fit. Lexus will have to develop an entire new Carbon Fiber monocoque to handle that heavy brick. And why would they do that, when they already did LFA with Transaxle 1LR V10. It will cost them a ton of money.
Toyota won't listen to anyone except their pockets, the company was in downward spiral ever since they discarded their motto of Lexus's "In the pursuit of perfection"
5.7 can blow head gaskets and also overheat from hidden coolant leaks under the intake from the coolant distribution plate
Bogus plastic intake manifolds leaking coolant is what caused the downfall of the 3.8 Buick V-6, an engine which was previously known for legendary reliability and longevity, and easily the equal of any Toyota V-6.
@@donreinke5863 Yeah, but you can probably get an Buick aluminum intake for 20 bucks at a junkyard
I have this engine type for a 2017 GX460, i am glad i told the dealer to do the coolant flush even though it was expensive (currently don’t have a garage to diy like I used to) thanks for this invaluable info
My sons 2014 Tundra SR5, 140k miles, exact same problem. Paid $12k to swap in a used 42k mile engine from a local salvage, 1 year warranty. As a GM LS owner, I had no idea Toyota 3UR-FE wasnt able to be remanned.
I own a 2015 tundra 5.7 I think the good news for tundra and sequoia owners is that there are many more that were wrecked because many more tundras sold. There is better availability of used motors
i could never trust a used engine. no telling how neglected it was.