Removing a Jacobs 33 arbor without wedges

This video is how I removed two Jacobs 33 arbors from two different chucks, the standard wedges do not work with the Jacobs 33...
I hope you find this video informative and helpful

[@robertdebusk6157]

I must say, That is a great idea. Usually when something doesn't come out on the first try, it gets damaged beyond recognition on the next try. You found a way to remove the arbor that doesn't damage it or you.
Take Care and Stay Safe.
Bob

[@outsidescrewball]

thanks for viewing and your comments

[@AWDJRforYouTube]

It is 4:36 AM EST, can't sleep, just in time to watch this I guess... great idea on the chuck removal Chuck. I did something like that[on the drill press] to replace a worn out 5/8" Jacobs w/ J 33 on my drill press years ago. Thanks for posting Chuck!

[@outsidescrewball]

thanks for viewing and your comments...too funny as I read you comment at 4:00 am PST....if I only had chickens to feed....lol

[@wildgoobsid5]

Love the dog. Obviously a dog lover. Our rule- always give your dog a human name. Howard “Howie” is one of the best I’ve ever heard!

[@mortier9]

Great tip. I have an Albrecht chuck with straight arbor I couldn't remove. The Jacobs wedges didn't fit, so I was about to tap it, etc. to pull it out. Your method succeeded in 10 minutes. I just used a couple square nuts instead of key stock. I put a little grease on the nuts to keep them in place. The hydraulic press popped out the arbor on the first try!

[@outsidescrewball]

awesome...thanks for viewing and your supportive comment, glad it worked for you

[@AmateurRedneckWorkshop]

A very clever move there Chuck. Thanks for the tip.

[@outsidescrewball]

thanks for viewing and your comments

[@douglasthompson2740]

A bit longer process is to disassemble the chuck (might be time for a cleaning anyway) and then knock the arbor out from the inside with a punch or press as it is exposed once the body is off. Give Howie a hug for me.

[@outsidescrewball]

thanks for viewing and your comments, you are correct that is the best method...I really did not want to mess with a tear down....Howie say Woof/Lick

[@PiefacePete46]

Sadly for me, Jacobs chucks are closed at the back. I watched a video where an axial hole was drilled through the centre of the chuck to expose the inner end of the arbor. I would probably try that if I had to... this time I was only cleaning it. Chuck's method is pretty neat, but I don't even have the clamp, let alone the press! 😢

[@sierraspecialtyauto7049]

Nicely done, Chuck. Very creative.

[@outsidescrewball]

thanks for viewing and your comments

[@charleskutrufis9612]

Hopefully I will remember this useful tip for next time, great idea. Thank You

[@MartsGarage]

Nicely done, Chuck. Those Albrecht chucks are nice. If it were to be done often a heavier wall tube with the two projections as part of the tube would work well and be less fiddly. A press is a great tool to have in the shop. I enjoy using mine. Mart in England.

[@outsidescrewball]

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[@MaturePatriot]

A great tip! Necessity is the mother of inventions, and work-a-rounds.

[@outsidescrewball]

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[@jorgedelafuentemaganto]

Thank you very much from Madrid (Spain). 👍🏻

[@DudleyToolwright]

Drum roll please... What a great idea. I really could have used your help about a month ago. Thanks the the awesome tip Chuck.

[@outsidescrewball]

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[@robertoswalt319]

I find myself saying this a lot, but that was really clever. Thanks for sharing that with us.

[@outsidescrewball]

thanks for viewing and your comments

[@chrislee7817]

Tha ks so much for this. It worked a treat. I used small bits of a broken drill bit and all 👍

[@outsidescrewball]

thanks for viewing and your comments

[@jdmccorful]

Good gig! Enjoyed watching.

[@outsidescrewball]

thanks for viewing and your comments

[@tomherd4179]

Some arbors like one of yours has the center area ground down some. I use two 1/2" square bars about 1.5" long clamped together then drilled out in the center to the diameter of the arbor center lower diameter. Then on the right and left side of the arbor drill hole I again drill and tap two holes for allen screws to clamp it to the arbor. Somewhat like your puller used. Placing wedges #3 on the chuck max opened position, then using 1/2"+ washers, tube, pipe, centers, etc. build up to the clamp. Press wedges and pop it off (normally). For a straight 1/2" without the center recess, well... I have ended up grinding a recess. I avoid arbors without the center recess - makes life easier. Suggest once remove check arbor for being true or at least in specification.

[@Engineerd3d]

Great tip Chuck!

[@outsidescrewball]

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[@MyShopNotes]

Great thinking Chuck.

[@outsidescrewball]

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[@vendter]

My Albrecht chuck has a hole in the center that allows access to the arbor from the jaw end. I took the largest punch I had that would fit in the hole and pressed against that to force out the arbor, basically the opposite direction you did. It's nice to see there are more ways to skin a cat, though I don't know who would want to skin a cat.

[@outsidescrewball]

thanks for viewing and your comments, my unit had no access hole and I didn't want to drill one...

[@johnhall8455]

That’s strange, there is a threaded part in the centre of the chuck….
You would have to dismantle the chuck and remove it to allow access to the arbor…which is one way of removing the arbor if the wedge method doesn’t work..

[@jerzyszczepanski2518]

Worked for me. Thanks mate. 👍

[@outsidescrewball]

awesome...thanks for viewing and your comment

[@TheRadioShop]

Nice tip! Thanks Chuck

[@outsidescrewball]

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[@cpcoark]

That's a new trick for me. Good idea

[@outsidescrewball]

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[@andyZ3500s]

Clever idea Chuck.

[@outsidescrewball]

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[@akfarmboy49]

Good idea I’m sure I will use it
Thank you

[@outsidescrewball]

thanks for viewing and your comments

[@cavemansmancave9025]

Thanks for the tip, Chuck.
I have a couple chucks with bent arbors. I’ll be using a variation of this to change them out.
Thanks,
John

[@outsidescrewball]

Hello John, thanks for viewing and commenting...

[@CraigLYoung]

Thanks for sharing!

[@outsidescrewball]

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[@swanvalleymachineshop]

Great easy way . Cheers .

[@outsidescrewball]

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[@bid6413]

Clever Chuck. Thanks.

[@outsidescrewball]

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[@dannyl2598]

Thank you

[@dcraft1234]

cool trick. A sturdy box with carpet under the press catches all schrapnel!

[@outsidescrewball]

thanks for viewing and your comments

[@chrisstephens6673]

Chuck playing with chuck, thank goodness i didnt mean it as an innuendo. 😆
Of course you could have put an end mill in the chuck and tried milling, sure to dislodge any tapers, but on the whole i prefer your method.👍

[@outsidescrewball]

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[@royreynolds108]

Nice idea.

[@outsidescrewball]

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[@jeffreystroman2811]

Little bit heat and cold (freeze spray or entire assembly in a freezer then heat only a part) usually works wonders, usually...

[@dizzolve]

Man's best friend .......... makes life 2wice as woof

[@outsidescrewball]

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[@bobhudson6659]

10 out of 10 mister.

[@outsidescrewball]

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[@andrewdolinskiatcarpathian]

Excellent idea. Now I need an arbor press! 😳

[@outsidescrewball]

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[@ypaulbrown]

thanks Chuck, really enjoyed this......Cheers

[@outsidescrewball]

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[@onemanwreckincrew]

Ingenious

[@outsidescrewball]

thanks for viewing and your supportive comment

[@larrysmurthwaite773]

Chuck getting along with other Chucks!

[@outsidescrewball]

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[@johnhall8455]

Easiest way to remove the arbor if the wedges aren’t available or if it’s a straight shank arbor, is to dismantle the chuck and then a punch can be used to knock the arbor out from inside the chuck body….no chance of damaging this way…
Unscrewing the two halves of the body can be a problem though on old chucks that have never been serviced…

[@bcbloc02]

If it did the job was it really not the right tool? :-) Baily says hi Howie :-)

[@outsidescrewball]

thanks for viewing and your comments....Big Woof to Baily

[@claytonpalsson3104]

I thank you for the brain teaser on removing the arbor. there are probably other ways but this seems sort of correct.

[@outsidescrewball]

thanks for viewing and your comments, they do make a wedge tool but it is over $100 in the MSC catalog

[@johnridgeway6718]

I thing if you tapped the pipe with a hammer you might not need the press. The shock from the hammer might be easier and the chuck would come off just fine. Moderate taps though.

[@richardellis3141]

cool ..

[@outsidescrewball]

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[@josephlovell6951]

Sweet

[@outsidescrewball]

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[@TheAyrCaveShop]

Petty dang skookem 👍👍

[@outsidescrewball]

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[@larrysperling8801]

very clever chuck. i will file that one away

[@outsidescrewball]

thanks for viewing and your comments

[@frankward709]

Surface grinder make a set of wedge

[@outsidescrewball]

thanks for viewing and your comment, yes that would work, but the wedge does need to be hardened....just a lot of time, this was quick and simple...did some homework and they do sell a wedge specific for this removal...bucks!!

[@ccfmfg]

Nice. Can I send You mine?

[@outsidescrewball]

thanks for viewing and your comments....if you need help, I am here

[@ccfmfg]

@@outsidescrewball I am former active duty Military and We learned that any problem can be solve with the application of the Right Amount of Explosives. So thank you but I am good. i love the channel.

[@lenuemccumbee6124]

Chuck instead of the keys loose!weld them to the to the pipe!!

[@outsidescrewball]

thanks for viewing and your comments, I was going to weld them, but not worth the time/effort for just the two chucks

[@saxplayingcompnerd]

WITHOUT WEDGES. proceeds to use another wedging tool that costs far more than a $10 set of JT wedges. COME ON MAN

[@outsidescrewball]

thanks for viewing and you have a point with your opinion, but most mechanic/machine shops own bearing splitters and most shops don't own chuck wedges in my experience....Yes you can order, but why order if you can get it done....????

[@BleuJurassic]

mind out that tube is hot grins

[@outsidescrewball]

thanks for viewing and your comment

[@azenginerd9498]

A donated dental pick might just be the ticket for manipulating those bits of key stock...

[@outsidescrewball]

thanks for viewing and your comment...my dental assistant would save the damaged picks for me...I probably have about 30 of them various designs...lol, but they were in the other part of the shop....

[@37yearsofanythingisenough39]

Chuck with the arbor off, take the chuck,open the jaws and tap drill the web you will find at the bottom by chucking the chuck in your lathe and tapping it with a sharp FINE THREAD tap. I say sharp because this is not a real good place to break off a tap. ( mine are all threaded 3/8-24 ). The next time you want to remove an arbor from the chuck, open the jaws and thread a matching FINE THREAD socket head cap screw into the previously threaded web from inside the chuck. Pushes the chuck right off the arbor as soon as the end of the SHCS meets the end of the arbor. Been doing it this way for decades. The fine thread is necessary because you are using it to apply pressure and the fine thread has more strength than a coarse thread of a given diameter. Look at a gear puller. They all have fine threads for this very reason. Once you do this you can throw away your wedges, pipe, and etc..

[@ypaulbrown]

great information......thanks

[@outsidescrewball]

thanks for viewing and your comments, I have done that with a keyed chuck, but I did not want to drill the keyless chuck

[@UncleKennysPlace]

I just removed one without wedges. Accidentally. Ruined the drill and the workpiece. I don't recommend drill seizure as a removal technique.

[@trollforge]

Yup, been there!

[@outsidescrewball]

thanks for viewing and your comments, I am well practiced in the method...lol