Had an older 14 Super Chuck (black knurl housing, script letters) that I had taken apart a fews ago and litterly just set the parts in a coffee can full of solvent. Decided today to get some of my projects done or tossed Needed a reminder of reassembly when I found your great video. I have the same exact press in my shop. If by chance you loose track of where the jaws came out of, the location in the body isn't as imortant as the clocking between the 3 jaws. If you can't align the jaws ends after placing the "half nut", swap 2 of the jaws positions and it should be back in time. I also run the jaws in and the n out fully closed before dropping in the balls in case I missed a burr. The jaws at fully closed helps stabilize during the ball insertion
Steve, I am impressed with the gentle way you handle your tools and materials you are working on. Very similar to Adam Booth. No slamming or banging, a lot of patience, and as Keith Fenner says, you "getter done".
Once upon a time, 5 years ago there was a fella that would take on any job and successfully build or repair it. That would be you Steve. Hardly a grey hair anywhere eh, LOL. Fun seeing this one. Well done. Now we all know how it is done eh.
@@SteveSummers HEY ! When I lost that leg I had to find something to replace that fixing the imposible that was a huge part of my life. Now I pour silver fun things and It saved me from crawling up a wall backwards. When people like us create all of our lives it is imperative we find something to fill that empty spot in our lives. Beware my friend. Start now getting a plan together to deal with a situation like mine. Retirement is only fun for a couple/few weeks. We are an odd bunch and we love it eh. Thanks for another golden oldie my friend.
@@TomokosEnterprize I hear you. Retirement isn't something I can ever imagine doing. I have to keep my mind and body moving. Watching sports or laying around isn't something I find rewarding . Got to keep myself useful in some way. Good on you for pushing through hard times and adapting. Good luck to you now and in the future.
@@SteveSummers I sure hear you on that one Steve. The satisfaction of creating something new or repairing the irreplaceable, one of a kind gizmo's like where your day job is just can't be beaten with a tv. I have to admit now I spend about 3 hours a day dealing with my channel and sometimes just cruising the net looking for folks like you, Keith Fenner, Adam and a couple others in this field of taking on life and it's various challenges. Have a great summer my friend. Keep those great posts a cumin eh.
Not sure if you noticed but the threads on the jaw teeth are ground do you can identify them. The #1 jaw has a short land at the back of the tooth, #2 has a long land in the same spot and #3 has a groove. That might help somebody should they ever get them mixed up. The 18N is my favorite size. I once spent several hours stoning the jaws in one of mine to get it to hold a piece of 6" drill rod with .001" repeatable run out, both at the chuck and at the end of the rod. It is my go to for drilling my tightest toleranced holes.
Jacobs has instructions on chuck rebuilding on their website. And, Identifying the 3 jaws is about the only useful info about the overhaul that I picked up. This is a great simple instructional video. Thanks Steve.
I gotta sat Steve that anyone who strikes a chuck with any thing needs their head read. Loved the video, keep them coming. Also gotta say love the accent. I would love to see more ‘down under (Australian)’ content on TH-cam that deals with this metal working/maintenance but it isn’t around. If anyone reads this comment and knows of Australian content please send me the details. Regards Rossco.
Randy Richard In The Shop I use it all the time. Handy little thing👌. I have at least 10 different ones and like the one you sent the best. Thanks Randy..
Useful information…if wedges don’t work to split the chuck and arbor, it is easy to drill through the chuck until you hit the arbor, then use a punch to knock them apart… I never use grease on drill or lathe chucks as it just acts like a magnet for dust and metal chips… A light oil like 3 in one works absolutely fine…I’ve never had any problems in the 50 years I’ve been servicing them…..
I have the same chuck, we changed arbors by enlarging the hole that you see inside the chuck. If I recall correctly, it was not hardened in that area. When the drill broke through, we pressed it out.
Nice video Steve. I have the same chuck. Now I know how to take it apart. Quick simple and easy. Keep up the good videos. I always like seeing one of your new videos come up.
BMR Studio It really was luck😃. Getting this box was one of the best things I can remember other than the wife and kids of course 😃. It was full of good stuff. One man's lifetime collection of tools. I feel very fortunate. Thanks for watching
its easy to use an 3 to 4 adapter and if ya look at flea markets ect youll find lots of bigger stuff out there compared home gamer size 1 and 2 .nice vid thanks for sharing
Thanks Steve, I have four of those super chucks including a big 18n Plus some regular Jacobs.They were being scrapped and were in need of a cleaning I got the outside cleaned up well and they function OK but I know they need a cleaning. I was hesitant to open them up not knowing their construction.... Again ,Thanks for a great Video ALSO It seems to me I watched a video (Oxtool) where He used that 1/8" hole to remove the arbor with a long 1/8" punch Try to warm up the base with a propane tourch (not the arbor) and not too hot 120f should do you should be able to touch it but not hold it long spray some pb blaster on before you heat it .....should pop right out
Gaz Pyrotechnics Thank you very much. I try to show folks interesting things in a video that in my opinion is easy to watch. I also try and explain things clearly. Just seen that you joined my patron 👍. Thanks again. You really give me hope that the channel will continue to grow.
Steve Summers joining your Patreon was an easy decision. I should’ve done it long ago. If it helps you to produce more content then it’s a no brainer. It’s a small price to pay for content I really enjoy watching.
Probably the best way to change the taper is to use an adapter. Sometimes I run into a chuck with a no.3 and want to go to a no.2 then I have to do the horrible job of trying to remove the shank and is sometimes not too much fun 😫😂😂
A couple of things. One if the tapers are locked that well I’d just use adapters instead. Second I like your press I need a press for my shop and that looks perfect for a small space. Would it be that hard to make?
I'd surgest leaving that arbor if it runs true. Maybe down the road you will have a MT3 use. Very easy to get an adapter sleeve. Best wishes DIRT FARMER JAKE
I am working on one as well of my own, plus an eBay used Albrecht 1/2" (not sure about it's condition yet). Anyway sometime if you could I would be interested in the end result run out after cleaning up. I checked mine after putting a 1/2" end mill in the chuck and found about 1.7 thousands, I think it's too much for that quality chuck, but I really don't know, especially after one is used for a while.
I think it is possible to avoid the press if you have the right wedges. See Tom Lipton; he has so many videos I lose track. Could possibly do the MT replacement too.
My company used to do the IT support for the Jacobs factory in Sheffield where many of their chucks were designed and made. Sad day when they closed the factory and moved the production to China. It's a housing estate now.
To remove the arbor, one option is to drill a 1/4" cross hole through the morse taper, and insert a hardened dowel pin. Then put your shims between the chuck body and the pin, and press it off. I did this with my 18n, and worked just fine. If you need to borrow some removal shims, send me your address and I'll mail you mine to borrow.
I believe, given that the aim is for a friction fit between the inside of the outer collar and the two half-nuts, that you shouldn't have applied grease to the half-nuts or the inside of the collar.
Tried this method and ended up breaking some teeth on the jaws. On my chuck, the jaws would have needed to potrude outside of the chuck for all the teeth to be out of the way of the collar. So beware, if it isn't coming off easy there might still be some teeth in the way.
Jyrki Koivisto lots of chucks have holes. This one just seems small for the size of the arbor. Not sure if it is even all the way into the arbor or not.
An old toolmaker taught me to pop an appropriate sized hole to put a hole in the dimple then use a drive punch to separate the arbor from the body. If memory serves me correctly that particular chuck is probably large enough to use a 5/16” or 3/8” drill bit without an issue to really have enough force to pop that bad boy apart. It doesn’t have to be precise, you can freehand it with a pistol grip drill if necessary.
Is it just me or did he just pass up the opportunity to change out the Morse taper while he was at it? I thought that was ONE of the reasons to disassemble. LOOKS GREAT though.
coyzee1 Maybe. The groove is shallow and would require machining. It's a Jacobs arbor and hard as a rock. It would probably have to be ground out deeper.
Curious why you chose not to grease the threads on the jaws or split nut? Seems to me one would want those to have at least some lubrication, maybe not as much as the factory gave it but some nonetheless.
Best way is to assemble it dry then lubricate with light oil. Fill inside with small amount and use a blast of low pressure air to spread it around. Let any excess to drain out.
I have one also that needs a cleaning. Bought it at an auction. After cleaning the outside I noticed it does not say made in the USA. Does your say made in or just USA?
The inside of your chuck looked very similar to the three New Old Stock chucks I've taken apart so far. Whatever that factory grease is it turns into like a solid varnish after a few decades. Also full of nice factory burrs as well. The Llambrich chuck I did was particulary full of them. I guess if the burrs didn't interfere with normal operation they would just leave them to save time. I only have a 1 ton lever-operated arbor press which worked pretty good for taking apart and putting together smaller chucks like a 31BA or 33BA. One was seized with a small amount of corrosion between the split ring and outer sleeve and I had to heat it up pretty good with a propane torch before it seperated. Keep in mind that new Jacobs chucks are now made in China, so it's probably better to buy New Old Stock or even used, as long as it says made in the USA somewhere on the outside. If you care about that sort of thing.
aflippy21 I have noticed that the older ones seem nicer than the new ones. Mine is a old USA version. Took slightly over 1000lbs to separate the color from the body. Not much really.
Steve, I may be mistaken, but I was thinking that you should just use oil, not grease on the chuck. But as I learned this from an unnamed internet person, it may be wrong or it may have been a keyless chuck I am thinking about!
Dennis Williams I'm not sure that the taper size in the 18N have wedges available from Jacob's, might have to make some. I've had some chucks and arbors that were locked by heating the chuck and freezing the arbor with LN2 that really didn't want to come apart - used wedges, turned the arbor and threaded it, drilled through the body and pounded it. Finally got it out by reaming the hole in the body with a dowel pin, packing the cavity with grease and hydraulically popped it in a 20T press.
Paul Devey Jacob's doesn't make wedges for the JT4 on the back of my 18N. I guess they might have made some years ago but there's nothing on their site now. If you made or got some you'd still have to cross drill for a pin or something for the wedges to work against on the MT3 since it's max diameter is smaller than the JT4 max. Assuming that Steve's chuck has JT4
I always wondered how they come apart. Great video. I have the same chuck. It is very rusty, I think saltwater got into it. My problem is I don't have a press. How much pressure did it take to press it apart? What are the chances of using a 4-pound hammer to force it apart?
Any chance you could comment on the OD of that round stone? I also have an 18N chuck that needs a rebuild. I’d love to order the stone ahead of time! Thanks!
deemstyle Sure .. just put calipers on the od and it is 0.543 or 13.75mm So it's odd sized . Just under 35/64ths🤔. A 1/2" stone would work fine. I really was surprised at how many factory burrs it had. Thanks for watching.
Well done, I have one which is threaded. How do you tell the difference when they are assembled before you start messing with the arbor. like your lab press, those are great little bench top units. Nice video. Oh... had to edit...and your background in the beginning , beautiful.
Flathead Ron's Garage Not sure I understand your question. Like I showed in the video. Mine is not threaded. Just around a 1/8th hole that I'm not even sure is all the way through the body. Thanks for watching 👍
I have a collection of chucks in a box of stuff I bought, two without arbors which have threads, and two with arbors which won’t come out. I was wondering how a rookie like me can learn how to tell if it’s threaded or press fit. Sorry Steve. I’m new at this and I’ll learn how to describe things or ask questions so they make more sense as I gain more knowledge. Still love your enthusiasm. And your videos👍👍👍
i think a chuck will say if its threaded the same way it says what its taper is usually , it might say 1/2-20 or 1/2-jt4 on it the first one denotes a thread at 20tpi (usually from an old drill chuck in my experience)
Claude Morehead I have read of people drilling them out before. I would like to make it where I could change them out easy in the future if needed. Thanks for watching 👍
When you drill it its a good idea to tap the hole afterwards and put in two set skews locking each other. If you leave it as it is, the hole will collect dirt and grime over time and you will have a hard time to get the arbor off.
If that hole inside the chuck could be threaded for a grease fitting you could force it off with a grease gun. If not, perhaps you could fit a pin or a straight punch into the hole and drive it out with that with grease or heavy oil. I will have to investigate tuning my chucks up like that. I did not check for burrs.
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Had an older 14 Super Chuck (black knurl housing, script letters) that I had taken apart a fews ago and litterly just set the parts in a coffee can full of solvent.
Decided today to get some of my projects done or tossed
Needed a reminder of reassembly when I found your great video.
I have the same exact press in my shop.
If by chance you loose track of where the jaws came out of, the location in the body isn't as imortant as the clocking between the 3 jaws.
If you can't align the jaws ends after placing the "half nut", swap 2 of the jaws positions and it should be back in time.
I also run the jaws in and the n out fully closed before dropping in the balls in case I missed a burr.
The jaws at fully closed helps stabilize during the ball insertion
Steve, I am impressed with the gentle way you handle your tools and materials you are working on. Very similar to Adam Booth. No slamming or banging, a lot of patience, and as Keith Fenner says, you "getter done".
This looks like North Georgia or NC. Beautiful country. Thanks for the video.
Once upon a time, 5 years ago there was a fella that would take on any job and successfully build or repair it. That would be you Steve. Hardly a grey hair anywhere eh, LOL. Fun seeing this one. Well done. Now we all know how it is done eh.
LoL, when I watch my older videos I notice how grey I've gotten 😅 .
Time catches up to ya. Thanks for watching buddy. It's good to see you
@@SteveSummers HEY ! When I lost that leg I had to find something to replace that fixing the imposible that was a huge part of my life. Now I pour silver fun things and It saved me from crawling up a wall backwards. When people like us create all of our lives it is imperative we find something to fill that empty spot in our lives. Beware my friend. Start now getting a plan together to deal with a situation like mine. Retirement is only fun for a couple/few weeks. We are an odd bunch and we love it eh. Thanks for another golden oldie my friend.
@@TomokosEnterprize I hear you. Retirement isn't something I can ever imagine doing. I have to keep my mind and body moving. Watching sports or laying around isn't something I find rewarding . Got to keep myself useful in some way. Good on you for pushing through hard times and adapting. Good luck to you now and in the future.
@@SteveSummers I sure hear you on that one Steve. The satisfaction of creating something new or repairing the irreplaceable, one of a kind gizmo's like where your day job is just can't be beaten with a tv. I have to admit now I spend about 3 hours a day dealing with my channel and sometimes just cruising the net looking for folks like you, Keith Fenner, Adam and a couple others in this field of taking on life and it's various challenges. Have a great summer my friend. Keep those great posts a cumin eh.
Not sure if you noticed but the threads on the jaw teeth are ground do you can identify them. The #1 jaw has a short land at the back of the tooth, #2 has a long land in the same spot and #3 has a groove. That might help somebody should they ever get them mixed up. The 18N is my favorite size. I once spent several hours stoning the jaws in one of mine to get it to hold a piece of 6" drill rod with .001" repeatable run out, both at the chuck and at the end of the rod. It is my go to for drilling my tightest toleranced holes.
Jacobs has instructions on chuck rebuilding on their website. And, Identifying the 3 jaws is about the only useful info about the overhaul that I picked up. This is a great simple instructional video. Thanks Steve.
I gotta sat Steve that anyone who strikes a chuck with any thing needs their head read. Loved the video, keep them coming. Also gotta say love the accent. I would love to see more ‘down under (Australian)’ content on TH-cam that deals with this metal working/maintenance but it isn’t around.
If anyone reads this comment and knows of Australian content please send me the details.
Regards
Rossco.
Nice job Steve. Another use of the scribe. Ball picking.
Randy Richard In The Shop I use it all the time. Handy little thing👌. I have at least 10 different ones and like the one you sent the best. Thanks Randy..
Just got a super chuck and it never felt right. After watching your video I now know how to disassemble mine. thanks
Very helpful and informative video! Thanks for posting!!!
Useful information…if wedges don’t work to split the chuck and arbor, it is easy to drill through the chuck until you hit the arbor, then use a punch to knock them apart…
I never use grease on drill or lathe chucks as it just acts like a magnet for dust and metal chips…
A light oil like 3 in one works absolutely fine…I’ve never had any problems in the 50 years I’ve been servicing them…..
Always wondered how they worked. Great little video
I have the same chuck, we changed arbors by enlarging the hole that you see inside the chuck. If I recall correctly, it was not hardened in that area. When the drill broke through, we pressed it out.
Nice video Steve. I have the same chuck. Now I know how to take it apart. Quick simple and easy. Keep up the good videos. I always like seeing one of your new videos come up.
Mark L Nothing to it really. It would be hard to do wrong. Thanks for watching.
Love this man…what a great guy.
Just did a gummed up 20n I got from eBay. Smooth as new with fresh grease.
d6joe Makes a world of difference👍. This one went from feeling like it was full of sand to smooth as new. The 2on is nice.
You are the luckiest machinist on the planet with this boxes :)
BMR Studio It really was luck😃. Getting this box was one of the best things I can remember other than the wife and kids of course 😃. It was full of good stuff. One man's lifetime collection of tools. I feel very fortunate. Thanks for watching
its easy to use an 3 to 4 adapter and if ya look at flea markets ect youll find lots of bigger stuff out there compared home gamer size 1 and 2 .nice vid thanks for sharing
Thanks Steve, I have four of those super chucks including a big 18n Plus some regular Jacobs.They were being scrapped and were in need of a cleaning I got the outside cleaned up well and they function OK but I know they need a cleaning. I was hesitant to open them up not knowing their construction.... Again ,Thanks for a great Video ALSO It seems to me I watched a video (Oxtool) where He used that 1/8" hole to remove the arbor with a long 1/8" punch Try to warm up the base with a propane tourch (not the arbor) and not too hot 120f should do you should be able to touch it but not hold it long spray some pb blaster on before you heat it .....should pop right out
Good info. I never knew how to take those apart. Now ill have to buy one to practice on.
nice job on the chuck
Another interesting ‘how to’ video Steve. Nice job.
Gaz Pyrotechnics Thank you very much. I try to show folks interesting things in a video that in my opinion is easy to watch. I also try and explain things clearly. Just seen that you joined my patron 👍. Thanks again. You really give me hope that the channel will continue to grow.
Steve Summers joining your Patreon was an easy decision. I should’ve done it long ago. If it helps you to produce more content then it’s a no brainer. It’s a small price to pay for content I really enjoy watching.
Good video thanks for sharing.
that reminds me ive got a couple Jacobs I need to rebuild
I've wondered how you've taken them apart for a long time thanks for sharing
lomsome's Garage No problem👍. They look like it would be hard to take apart but they are real easy. Thanks for watching
Very cool Steve! Learn something every time I watch you. Thanks
Good job Steve, I've got a couple chucks that could probably use a cleaning liked that. Now I know how. Have a good weekend. Craig
clemwyo Thanks Craig. It really was easy and only took an hour or less. That is unless you try to film it. Then it took about 6 if you count editing 😃
Steve Summers I feel your pain brother.
Hi great Chanel did you ever change the arbor
Thank you for sharing.👍
I have never done that either, nice Video! Would have been need to see a before picture, when it was all rusted.
Nicely done Steve!
ATB, Robin
That's great. I know what my next job is now. Cheers Steve
Probably the best way to change the taper is to use an adapter. Sometimes I run into a chuck with a no.3 and want to go to a no.2 then I have to do the horrible job of trying to remove the shank and is sometimes not too much fun 😫😂😂
look up jacobs chucks online. Parts available!. Wedges too.
I found your channel and i'm enjoying watching your videos. I have sub you.
Great job Steve !
A couple of things. One if the tapers are locked that well I’d just use adapters instead. Second I like your press I need a press for my shop and that looks perfect for a small space. Would it be that hard to make?
Good thing for many to know,,, mainly so they see it might not be as hard as they may have thought... Thank you Steve! :o)
O,,,
nice vid, thanks a lot
I'd surgest leaving that arbor if it runs true.
Maybe down the road you will have a MT3 use.
Very easy to get an adapter sleeve.
Best wishes
DIRT FARMER JAKE
I am working on one as well of my own, plus an eBay used Albrecht 1/2" (not sure about it's condition yet). Anyway sometime if you could I would be interested in the end result run out after cleaning up. I checked mine after putting a 1/2" end mill in the chuck and found about 1.7 thousands, I think it's too much for that quality chuck, but I really don't know, especially after one is used for a while.
Sounds like a good way to invest an hour or two on a soggy afternoon.
Jim's videos That's what I did. It was raining when I did it. Had to stop filming several times in this video due to the loud rain on the tin roof☺.
Hey man, nice vid. I love seeing your channel grow and you are putting out really nice videos. Just a big thumbs up from across the Atlantic! :)
I think it is possible to avoid the press if you have the right wedges. See Tom Lipton; he has so many videos I lose track. Could possibly do the MT replacement too.
a great day to learn! Thank you!
My company used to do the IT support for the Jacobs factory in Sheffield where many of their chucks were designed and made. Sad day when they closed the factory and moved the production to China.
It's a housing estate now.
To remove the arbor, one option is to drill a 1/4" cross hole through the morse taper, and insert a hardened dowel pin. Then put your shims between the chuck body and the pin, and press it off. I did this with my 18n, and worked just fine. If you need to borrow some removal shims, send me your address and I'll mail you mine to borrow.
Tubalcain mr Pete has a video on how to remove the arbor from the chuck
I believe, given that the aim is for a friction fit between the inside of the outer collar and the two half-nuts, that you shouldn't have applied grease to the half-nuts or the inside of the collar.
Where can one can the servicing tool to fit the back of the collar?
Hey, you have a Mini lathe. Man they are fun..
Drill out the hole in the back of the chuck to 5/16 and press the arbor out.
Tried this method and ended up breaking some teeth on the jaws. On my chuck, the jaws would have needed to potrude outside of the chuck for all the teeth to be out of the way of the collar. So beware, if it isn't coming off easy there might still be some teeth in the way.
Did you drill and separate the arbor?
Pretty sure that the little hole inside the chuck is the centering hole of the arbor shaft. Just press it out?
Jyrki Koivisto lots of chucks have holes. This one just seems small for the size of the arbor. Not sure if it is even all the way into the arbor or not.
An old toolmaker taught me to pop an appropriate sized hole to put a hole in the dimple then use a drive punch to separate the arbor from the body. If memory serves me correctly that particular chuck is probably large enough to use a 5/16” or 3/8” drill bit without an issue to really have enough force to pop that bad boy apart. It doesn’t have to be precise, you can freehand it with a pistol grip drill if necessary.
Super
Is it just me or did he just pass up the opportunity to change out the Morse taper while he was at it? I thought that was ONE of the reasons to disassemble. LOOKS GREAT though.
Hello Steve, another great video. Could you use a thick washer as packing for the wedges to remove the arbor ?
coyzee1 Maybe. The groove is shallow and would require machining. It's a Jacobs arbor and hard as a rock. It would probably have to be ground out deeper.
Could you rig up a slide hammer somehow to pull the arbor out? Maybe drill and tap the end of the arbor?
Curious why you chose not to grease the threads on the jaws or split nut? Seems to me one would want those to have at least some lubrication, maybe not as much as the factory gave it but some nonetheless.
Best way is to assemble it dry then lubricate with light oil. Fill inside with small amount and use a blast of low pressure air to spread it around. Let any excess to drain out.
I have one also that needs a cleaning. Bought it at an auction. After cleaning the outside I noticed it does not say made in the USA. Does your say made in or just USA?
Duane Dickey Yes mine says Made in USA. Thanks for watching 👍
The inside of your chuck looked very similar to the three New Old Stock chucks I've taken apart so far. Whatever that factory grease is it turns into like a solid varnish after a few decades. Also full of nice factory burrs as well. The Llambrich chuck I did was particulary full of them. I guess if the burrs didn't interfere with normal operation they would just leave them to save time.
I only have a 1 ton lever-operated arbor press which worked pretty good for taking apart and putting together smaller chucks like a 31BA or 33BA. One was seized with a small amount of corrosion between the split ring and outer sleeve and I had to heat it up pretty good with a propane torch before it seperated.
Keep in mind that new Jacobs chucks are now made in China, so it's probably better to buy New Old Stock or even used, as long as it says made in the USA somewhere on the outside. If you care about that sort of thing.
aflippy21 I have noticed that the older ones seem nicer than the new ones. Mine is a old USA version. Took slightly over 1000lbs to separate the color from the body. Not much really.
Steve, I may be mistaken, but I was thinking that you should just use oil, not grease on the chuck. But as I learned this from an unnamed internet person, it may be wrong or it may have been a keyless chuck I am thinking about!
My colchester is a #3 if you're wanting to unload it... lol
Forked wedges. Make the slot to fit the arbor
Thanks
Dennis Williams Yeah, not sure what I'm going to do just yet.👍
Several ways it can be done.
Dennis Williams I'm not sure that the taper size in the 18N have wedges available from Jacob's, might have to make some. I've had some chucks and arbors that were locked by heating the chuck and freezing the arbor with LN2 that really didn't want to come apart - used wedges, turned the arbor and threaded it, drilled through the body and pounded it. Finally got it out by reaming the hole in the body with a dowel pin, packing the cavity with grease and hydraulically popped it in a 20T press.
Yes, Jacobs make and sell them .
Paul Devey Jacob's doesn't make wedges for the JT4 on the back of my 18N. I guess they might have made some years ago but there's nothing on their site now. If you made or got some you'd still have to cross drill for a pin or something for the wedges to work against on the MT3 since it's max diameter is smaller than the JT4 max. Assuming that Steve's chuck has JT4
Great job Steve. I'm looking for a small hydrolytic press. I like the size of yours. Can you give me the brand name.
Which solvent did you use to clean it? I usually use gasoline for such things but it probably isn't the best idea.
Mark Trombley I also use gas. Other than the stink it works great👍
I always wondered how they come apart. Great video.
I have the same chuck. It is very rusty, I think saltwater got into it. My problem is I don't have a press. How much pressure did it take to press it apart? What are the chances of using a 4-pound hammer to force it apart?
if you have a bearing/gear puller, that’ll work.
@@allisonandrews6398 thanks for the idea.
It's been sitting in Marvel mystery oil waiting for time to work on it.
It's on my list....someday.
Any chance you could comment on the OD of that round stone? I also have an 18N chuck that needs a rebuild. I’d love to order the stone ahead of time! Thanks!
deemstyle Sure .. just put calipers on the od and it is 0.543 or 13.75mm So it's odd sized . Just under 35/64ths🤔. A 1/2" stone would work fine. I really was surprised at how many factory burrs it had. Thanks for watching.
🤭I know what my next job is going to be
The Workshop Mechanic Channel Easy as it gets. Some times the hardest part is getting started 👍
Well done, I have one which is threaded. How do you tell the difference when they are assembled before you start messing with the arbor. like your lab press, those are great little bench top units. Nice video. Oh... had to edit...and your background in the beginning , beautiful.
Flathead Ron's Garage Not sure I understand your question. Like I showed in the video. Mine is not threaded. Just around a 1/8th hole that I'm not even sure is all the way through the body. Thanks for watching 👍
I have a collection of chucks in a box of stuff I bought, two without arbors which have threads, and two with arbors which won’t come out. I was wondering how a rookie like me can learn how to tell if it’s threaded or press fit. Sorry Steve. I’m new at this and I’ll learn how to describe things or ask questions so they make more sense as I gain more knowledge. Still love your enthusiasm. And your videos👍👍👍
i think a chuck will say if its threaded the same way it says what its taper is usually , it might say 1/2-20 or 1/2-jt4 on it the first one denotes a thread at 20tpi (usually from an old drill chuck in my experience)
Thank You.
You have to drill a hole to do so. I've had to do it in the past.
Claude Morehead I have read of people drilling them out before. I would like to make it where I could change them out easy in the future if needed. Thanks for watching 👍
When you drill it its a good idea to tap the hole afterwards and put in two set skews locking each other. If you leave it as it is, the hole will collect dirt and grime over time and you will have a hard time to get the arbor off.
How much time did you waste teasing those bearings through that opening when all you had to do was separate the split nut?
Perhaps the split nut won't come out while the balls are in place. The races are cupped so the balls hold then in line.
Those chucks are expensive! Hard to find one in such good shape for cheap... :(
Last I looked, Albrecht and Jacobs parts are available at McMaster Carr. None too cheap. I wonder if balls are a standard size.
If that hole inside the chuck could be threaded for a grease fitting you could force it off with a grease gun. If not, perhaps you could fit a pin or a straight punch into the hole and drive it out with that with grease or heavy oil. I will have to investigate tuning my chucks up like that. I did not check for burrs.
You can send me that 18N. I have a MT3 on my Enco tailstock. :)
Have you heard about Steve Summers? No? Chuck It out!