I have a chuck like that but had no clue how to get the thing separated from the taper and gave up. Now I'll make me a set of these babies and give it another go. Thanks, Mr. Pete.
Greetings MrPete. My first project of the new year (01-01-2024). Three of my chucks were on R8 collets. Now that I downsized to a Clausing 8530 I had to switch to a 2MT. Used 5 degrees, winging it and worked great.
Your library of tools and offer of a multitude of methods to accomplish tasks is quite useful. None of us have the same collection or abilities so it's good to see the options.
Thanks for another great video. When you pulled out the angle blocks and went to the surface plate, I thought for sure you were going to place the 3 degree block upside down on the wedge, then indicate along the top to show its parallel to the surface. Been helping my 16 year old with his geometry homework has given me a renewed appreciation for what the ancient Greeks figured out.
Mr. Pete, My earlier attempt at making these wedges was a dismal failure. Now I know how to do it, thanks! On another point I’m sure you have come across the “Museum of Our Industrial Heritage” channel but if not give it a look. I just watched a video of a tour of Millers Falls tool company that is fascinating. It was filmed in 1943 during WW 2 when the company was producing products for the war effort. The film itself is silent but has been digitalized and there are background people giving commentary. One man knew many of the people at Millers Falls and gives interesting commentary on them. I have several Millers Falls tools including hand planes, screwdrivers and a combination square that is just as accurate as my Starret. Dale
Great video. I have had a couple of those wedges in my toolbox for the past thirty plus years.. I thought they were the clips that held the front brake lines in place on the 67 Dodge I had. Might be time to clean out that toolbox.......
They could be from a Dodge. If they were from a recent model and did the job, it would be a possible source of inexpensive mass-produced parts / tools.
Mr. Pete, your timing on this is PERFECT. I have an Albrecht chuck that needs to come off an odd arbor. The groove on the shank is an odd distance from the chuck. A quick custom build of a new set of wedges is EXACTLY what the Sr. ordered.. I wonder how many caught your "Primitive Pete" reference.. Well played sir, well played..
Just made a pair (just in mild steel) which worked beautifully when squeezed in the vise to remove a keyless chuck from a b2 taper. Ain't nothing like having the right tool for the job!
It's nice to have a vertical milling machine for these. However, I don't have one. I made mine by starting with a 1/4" piece of plate steel and used an angle grinder with cut off blades to cut everything, from the slots to the outline. I then used my angle grinder with a grinding disk to taper the wedges to the needed taper and thickness. This took a while, but the resulting set worked like a charm. I put the wedges on my chuck (an expensive German chuck mounted on a mauled arbor) in my vice and with a few turns of the vice handle, the chuck and arbor popped apart.
@@mrpete222 Indeed so. We watch him EVERY night after we downloaded every episode. For there is no one like Paladin. He GETS the job done and "yesterday!" "I have gun. Will Travel". YesireeBobTail! But none exceed "OUR" "Mr Pete"! And yuz kin take that to the bank; and the check will NOT bounce! Praise Jesus for "our" "Mr Pete'!
Nice job! I have noticed a few of my arbor-to-chucks do not have the "normal/standard" distance between so that 2 wedges will work. This would give one the ability to make a special set as needed. When one finds a 1/2 smooth arbor with nothing to press against from the chuck, then creativity gets involved and usually a modified arbor (if it survives or can be trusted after removal).
I watched the number 384 video. very informative. I now know and understand about Jacobs, and Morse. Btw, I checked out the Cameron site. Amazingly eorbinant prices for drill presses. The one like yours is 1500.00 dollars.
Nice video, I’ve got to make an odd set, #3 Morse with #33 Jacobs taper. I have got a set of 3’s I’ve had for years but they don’t fit the back of the 33 Morse. I’d seen this video before but thought I’d take a refresher course before I cut into a piece of pre ground 4140.
I have a magnetic chuck that I think I could use to cut the taper. Just angle the chuck at 3 degrees and use a flycutter. I haven't tried anything like that, but I might just try it to see if it would work.
Hi mrpete222, Interesting stuff, there obviously are different ways of making these as you have already pointed out, I think you also asked us for comments on how we would make them, so here are my two cents, I would have slotted the material first, then cut material to length, then lay an existing Jacobs wedge on a surface grinder with the new material on top of it and grind to a wedge, no need to work out the angle as this would automatically be done. But obviously you can only do this if you have a surface grinder.
you should do a video series making a tilting vise. theres so much content from shaping the stock in the mill to cuttings the ways making gears to make the indexing. theres hours of very interesting content in the project
Good stuff Mr. Pete. I kinda held my breath when you were milling the taper so close to the vice jaws. LOL I could not imagine your reaction if you had something slipped and you milled the hardened jaws of the vice.
I have several sets of Jacobs wedges - JT1, JT2, and JT6 that also works with JT3/33. I work on a lot of vintage gear. Light industrial. The wedges often aren't thick enough. When there's an a removable arbor, often a JT2 can be wedged firmly while a JT3/33 is struck. However, when there's too much space and the chuck attaches directly to the taper on the spindle, then what? I'd made several Jacobs-like wedges in various thicknesses. Problem solved. They're not made as precisely as the wedges in the video. Very nice work. Really.
Lyle, I had never used an Albrecht chuck. But when I got my new Powermatic drill press, it came with one. I fell instantly in love with it. But that did not last long. Here is why: If you use large bits; or especially large "hole" saws; the chuck will bind so tight that it simply cannot be broken with the hands. Fortunately, I found a TH-cam DIY that said, "use 2 special "Vise Grips"" to break it loose. (Irwin Vise Grip-12LC) They DO the job, but they are liable to ruin the knurling on the outside of the chuck. Have you had this problem with said chucks? And if so what did you do to break them once they gall together? Thanks dear brother.
at a spring factory i used to work at ..they told me to never use a hand tightening chuck with a bit bigger than 1/2 .... they said it would bust the chuck ....and i think they found out the hard way ....and they were using Albrecht chucks ...........
Thanks for the video , it worked like a charm except that I had to make an angle block since I don’t have a set like yours . You left out that step for us poor folk . Ha Ha ! And I did sweat 😓 a little blood working that close to my vise, you probably heard the sigh of relief all the way to your house when I was done . 😉 !
Great video, nice content. I always learn something from you on these vids. You are a wealth of info. Really nice of you to share. Thank you Mr. Pete. Dan
Thank you for the videos, sir. Any advice for a low budget/new guy who may not have angle blocks or fancy vices? I have very minimal options and funds but need to make some wedges.
Very nice! I have some Albrecht and Röhm chucks that need attention. The double wedge approach I really like, the only way to go really when one wants to avoid bending forces completely.
Oh we are already following you on Instagram though we like watching you more on TH-cam. Our drill presses are so fragile if we use anything like that chisels it will likely bend the shank arbor spindle and whatever else damage bearings side to side not allowed. Loving on the Die Makers Square mr.pete:) Word of the day be-la-bor ing no never mr.pete you can never over express your messages to us. From your comment yesterday, Yes my day starts early in California 3:00 daily work starts at 6:00 AM daily. The vise on the green milling machine? is that a 6.00 inch Ellis Tools and Manufacturing Company vise? Just learning here. I notice both you and Randy Richards use red dykem instead of the blue just wondering as I was written up for using it out of the inspection department years ago as it indicates rejection or errors in a production shop, not criticizing here just trying o learn about things. In the end a nice working 3 degree wedge repair tool.
Yes, I do love that little square. The reason I use the red dye is this. 20 years ago, someone gave me a case of quarts of the red dye. I pour it into the smaller containers. I gave most of it away, but I still have enough left to take me into the next century.
@@ExtantFrodo2 Yes the red dykem was for first article parts run around parts corrections back to programming etc. in production shops aerospace job shops quality control to prevent error dimensional parts from making there way onto or into the good parts areas and to help make a first part to follow making the second and so on, it was what I learned but there is likely many other quality control methods besides this to select from all about controlled flows and error reduction regardless. Thank you for sharing.
What I am surprised about is, the fact you didn't manufacture the missing components for the Albrecht chuck, and video it instead of using a Jacobs chuck. Would you consider doing that? May make an interesting series!
I have an old Delta 11-990 drill press with a stuck arbor in the quill. I have suspect MT1 can remove it. The arbor is around 10mm wide at the quill. I’m not able to confirm and any directions would be appreciated!
You cut that clearance close, I was puckering for you. I agree anytime you can mount something at an angle in the vice it is the best method. Question did the finished slot need to be at the same angle or was that convenience because of the part being chucked
I would love to have a milling machine. No more room in the basement for any more machines. I will have to use the Craftsman lathe attachment to do the same. Thank you.
Flex shaft grinders: Have you ever used one? any tips or suggestions on good brands or upgrade parts? I was gifted a SE 979FSG for Christmas. So far I have ordered spare hand pieces to make tool changes faster instead of dealing with the chuck and chuck key. Also a new footswitch but after that I have no idea what I should get for it.
would have messed that up, i was thinking x axis cut which would tended to lift part. y axis best as u did. do have albrech chuck. didnt eat that month.
Happy New Year! I thought the nut just above the chuck, when backed down with a wrench, would remove the chuck!? I have never needed to remove a chuck before, but they have removed themselves at the most inopportune times. Thanks for the Video!
Chucks don't fit onto a morse taper. a morse taper usually fits into the machine itself. some morse tapers are held in with a drawbar but the majority are held in by the taper itself as in most drill presses. there is a wedge to remove them from a drill press but it is a different style and is insertd in the quill of the drill press and bears against the tang of the morse taper and forces the morse taper out when tapped with a hammer.
The principle is the same. I made some wedges to remove my er32 collet chuck from the mt3 taper in my mill spindle. I use a drill press vise to squeeze the wedges together to extract the taper. Much kinder to the bearings than hitting the drawbar with a soft headed mallet.
I don´t think they are too wide. I believe, they make them so narrow to save material (money). But the wider ones have more stability, and that is good.
Talk about mechanical advantage, a wedge is a beautiful thing! Thanks Mr Pete!
It is indeed
Mr. Pete, I love when you show different alternative ways to do set ups, measures angles, etc. Thank you
Thanks , I love doing it
Mr Pete I would have been grateful to have had you as my shop instructor.
Thanks
Never knew about these wedges. I have always just bumped it with a wooden file handle. Now I will have to get a set. Thanks Again.
Very nicely done, Mr Pete. Thanks.
Thanks
Works like a dream. Removed a JT33 taper with ease. Onl;y took 30 mins of machining the tapers. Thanks for the advive
I made a pair about four years ago when I needed them ASAP. Easy to make, also my first successful attempt at hardening. Great video as usual!
Thanks 👍
Double sided tape right to the back flat part of you vise works well for smaller pieces and light cuts. Thanks Mr. Pete for another video.
Good idea
I have a chuck like that but had no clue how to get the thing separated from the taper and gave up. Now I'll make me a set of these babies and give it another go. Thanks, Mr. Pete.
Yes
Greetings MrPete. My first project of the new year (01-01-2024). Three of my chucks were on R8 collets. Now that I downsized to a Clausing 8530 I had to switch to a 2MT. Used 5 degrees, winging it and worked great.
👍👍👍
Thanks for all of your videos geared for the home garage dwellers.
👍
It wouldn't be Saturday morning without MrPete and a cup of coffee!
Thanks
The man is a machine!
Lost Mountain Restoration the Chuck Norris of his craft!
I was thinking of a Jacobs ladder yesterday, LOL. Surprise someone would mention that
Sorry, are we talking about the type of Jacob's Ladder involving a high voltage transformer, or something else?
He's a cyborg?
Your library of tools and offer of a multitude of methods to accomplish tasks is quite useful. None of us have the same collection or abilities so it's good to see the options.
Yes thanks
I need to make some wedges myself. I like the sticker in the background. Thanks for the video Lyle
Good eye. I had to enlarge it to recognize that sticker.
Just checking to see if you are watching, LOL
@@mrpete222 Yeah, I'm watching😎
tu as un bon oeil les jeunes lolll I too have seen it is a small aguissable this little 222 I love your work that you do not loose
Thanks for another great video. When you pulled out the angle blocks and went to the surface plate, I thought for sure you were going to place the 3 degree block upside down on the wedge, then indicate along the top to show its parallel to the surface. Been helping my 16 year old with his geometry homework has given me a renewed appreciation for what the ancient Greeks figured out.
Mr. Pete,
My earlier attempt at making these wedges was a dismal failure. Now I know how to do it, thanks!
On another point I’m sure you have come across the “Museum of Our Industrial Heritage” channel but if not give it a look. I just watched a video of a tour of Millers Falls tool company that is fascinating. It was filmed in 1943 during WW 2 when the company was producing products for the war effort. The film itself is silent but has been digitalized and there are background people giving commentary. One man knew many of the people at Millers Falls and gives interesting commentary on them. I have several Millers Falls tools including hand planes, screwdrivers and a combination square that is just as accurate as my Starret.
Dale
Yes, I have watched that video several times, and I love it. Are you still on quite a few MF tools
Something to watch with my Saturday coffee …. Thx Mr. P ….. Always very informative …..
👍👍
We are fortunate that you enjoy sharing your considerable knowledge...
👍
THANK YOU...for sharing. I have some of these wedges in the toolbox and wasn't sure what they were used for.
Thank you for showing several ways to measure the taper. Educational for us knuckle draggers.
lol
Great video. I have had a couple of those wedges in my toolbox for the past thirty plus years.. I thought they were the clips that held the front brake lines in place on the 67 Dodge I had. Might be time to clean out that toolbox.......
lol
They could be from a Dodge. If they were from a recent model and did the job, it would be a possible source of inexpensive mass-produced parts / tools.
Honest when you asked if anyone could guess what degrees they were I said to myself 3 degrees.
Yet another fantastic learning video.
lol thanks
Mr. Pete, your timing on this is PERFECT. I have an Albrecht chuck that needs to come off an odd arbor. The groove on the shank is an odd distance from the chuck. A quick custom build of a new set of wedges is EXACTLY what the Sr. ordered..
I wonder how many caught your "Primitive Pete" reference.. Well played sir, well played..
Thanks 👍
Just made a pair (just in mild steel) which worked beautifully when squeezed in the vise to remove a keyless chuck from a b2 taper. Ain't nothing like having the right tool for the job!
Yes
It is nice to see such useful, and easy to make, projects. Thanks for sharing so much knowledge.
It's nice to have a vertical milling machine for these. However, I don't have one. I made mine by starting with a 1/4" piece of plate steel and used an angle grinder with cut off blades to cut everything, from the slots to the outline. I then used my angle grinder with a grinding disk to taper the wedges to the needed taper and thickness. This took a while, but the resulting set worked like a charm. I put the wedges on my chuck (an expensive German chuck mounted on a mauled arbor) in my vice and with a few turns of the vice handle, the chuck and arbor popped apart.
Nice job, you are a very patient man.
Thank you that helped me with my #0 chuck replacement.
👍
This sure beats Saturday morning cartoons any day
Yes, but not as good as Palidan. Which I am going to watch right now
@@mrpete222 Haha only folks our age know who Palidin was.
@@jimpritz4169 Hey, I'm 29 and I watch Paladin every night! LOL
Some of the best scripts ever made for a show. There will never be another like it.
@@mrpete222 Indeed so. We watch him EVERY night after we downloaded every episode. For there is no one like Paladin. He GETS the job done and "yesterday!"
"I have gun. Will Travel".
YesireeBobTail!
But none exceed "OUR" "Mr Pete"! And yuz kin take that to the bank; and the check will NOT bounce!
Praise Jesus for "our" "Mr Pete'!
@@DixieDee Glad you enjoy watching the show and also glad you are only 29. Hope you have a blessed 2019.
Good job , thanks for making these videos I really enjoy them and also wind up learning something.
Thanks
Very helpful video on how to cut shallow angles on a Bridgeport mill.
Nice job! I have noticed a few of my arbor-to-chucks do not have the "normal/standard" distance between so that 2 wedges will work. This would give one the ability to make a special set as needed. When one finds a 1/2 smooth arbor with nothing to press against from the chuck, then creativity gets involved and usually a modified arbor (if it survives or can be trusted after removal).
Morning coffee and watching Mr. Pete vids nothing better than that 👊🏻☕️👊🏻☕️👊🏻
👍👍👍👍
Simple tools that make work easier. Very good video.
Yes
I watched the number 384 video. very informative. I now know and understand about Jacobs, and Morse. Btw, I checked out the Cameron site. Amazingly eorbinant prices for drill presses. The one like yours is 1500.00 dollars.
Yes, no one but IBM could afford one
Excellent! Headed to the shop to make some. Thank you!
👍👍
Lyle, you are a true national treasure..
Thanks
Hey Mr. Pete, have you ever read the book "How to tighten a drill bit" written by Chuck Key?
lol
Great video Lyle. I made some a while ago. I'm glad to see we used the same method. Cheers
Great minds think a like, LOL
Haha. When my mind is as active as yours ill be a happy man
Nice video, I’ve got to make an odd set, #3 Morse with #33 Jacobs taper. I have got a set of 3’s I’ve had for years but they don’t fit the back of the 33 Morse. I’d seen this video before but thought I’d take a refresher course before I cut into a piece of pre ground 4140.
👍👍
I have a magnetic chuck that I think I could use to cut the taper. Just angle the chuck at 3 degrees and use a flycutter. I haven't tried anything like that, but I might just try it to see if it would work.
Yes, that would be a good solution
highpower -Be really careful. thin material does not hold well on mag chucks.
@@milantrcka121 I know, that is why if I were to try it, I would do light cuts.
@@milantrcka121 I Agree it could be dangerous, an interrupted cut would not recommend it.
Nice work. I miss not having a Bridgeport mill. I suppose I could scribe a line and file to it. Or even use the belt sander. Hmmm...... 😆
Yes
A neat little project.
Thanks.
Thanks
Happy new year thanks for your time teasching
Happy New Year's
Good video always learning how to do certain things from ur videos
👍👍
Hi mrpete222, Interesting stuff, there obviously are different ways of making these as you have already pointed out, I think you also asked us for comments on how we would make them, so here are my two cents, I would have slotted the material first, then cut material to length, then lay an existing Jacobs wedge on a surface grinder with the new material on top of it and grind to a wedge, no need to work out the angle as this would automatically be done. But obviously you can only do this if you have a surface grinder.
John Bower - Why would someone need to make these, if they already had them?
@@stevek5416 As in this case, not having all sizes?
That is a good solution thank you
When I made my set, I just eye-balled the angles. They aren't even flat on the angles, but they still did the trick.
The power of wedges, even small ones. Thx.
you should do a video series making a tilting vise. theres so much content from shaping the stock in the mill to cuttings the ways making gears to make the indexing. theres hours of very interesting content in the project
Wow, that sounds like a big project
thanks mrpete great info and i found very interesting
Excellent job sir thanks for sharing..
Thanks
Interesting video. Thanks.
Good stuff Mr. Pete. I kinda held my breath when you were milling the taper so close to the vice jaws. LOL I could not imagine your reaction if you had something slipped and you milled the hardened jaws of the vice.
lol
Interesting. Thanks for the video.
👍
great vid and info
I have several sets of Jacobs wedges - JT1, JT2, and JT6 that also works with JT3/33. I work on a lot of vintage gear. Light industrial. The wedges often aren't thick enough. When there's an a removable arbor, often a JT2 can be wedged firmly while a JT3/33 is struck. However, when there's too much space and the chuck attaches directly to the taper on the spindle, then what? I'd made several Jacobs-like wedges in various thicknesses. Problem solved. They're not made as precisely as the wedges in the video. Very nice work. Really.
Excellent! Thanks, Mr. Pete! :-)
Thanks
Lyle, I had never used an Albrecht chuck. But when I got my new Powermatic drill press, it came with one. I fell instantly in love with it. But that did not last long. Here is why: If you use large bits; or especially large "hole" saws; the chuck will bind so tight that it simply cannot be broken with the hands. Fortunately, I found a TH-cam DIY that said, "use 2 special "Vise Grips"" to break it loose. (Irwin Vise Grip-12LC)
They DO the job, but they are liable to ruin the knurling on the outside of the chuck.
Have you had this problem with said chucks? And if so what did you do to break them once they gall together?
Thanks dear brother.
I did have one jam. I used leather and a channel lock. I generally use them only for smaller bits.
at a spring factory i used to work at ..they told me to never use a hand tightening chuck with a bit bigger than 1/2 .... they said it would bust the chuck ....and i think they found out the hard way ....and they were using Albrecht chucks ...........
Thanks for the video , it worked like a charm except that I had to make an angle block since I don’t have a set like yours . You left out that step for us poor folk . Ha Ha ! And I did sweat 😓 a little blood working that close to my vise, you probably heard the sigh of relief all the way to your house when I was done . 😉 !
lol
Great video, nice content. I always learn something from you on these vids. You are a wealth of info. Really nice of you to share. Thank you Mr. Pete. Dan
Thanks
Thank you for the videos, sir. Any advice for a low budget/new guy who may not have angle blocks or fancy vices? I have very minimal options and funds but need to make some wedges.
Nice and precizie job !!
All the beast !
Thanks
Very nice! I have some Albrecht and Röhm chucks that need attention. The double wedge approach I really like, the only way to go really when one wants to avoid bending forces completely.
To get my chuck of its MT2 drawbar style arbor, I used a piece of steel tube and a set screw.
Good solution, thanks
When the chuck is new drill a hole through the back and tap it. When you need to remove it just put in a screw and push it off. Saves a lot of time.
I work with plenty of guys that firmly believe screwdrivers are actually pry-drivers.
Hey! I resemble that remark.
Isn't that what they are for?
@@mrpete222 keep an edge on the tip for those small flat heads and its a chisel its double duty in in your pocket
Screwdrivers are disposably cheap. I have no problem destroying one to get my task done.
i thought those little shiny triangles with the angle markings were meant for this job?? 😉
Thank you for the video.
Thanks
Thanks
Thanks Mr Pete. Great video. Happy New Year and please Machine Responsibly. LOL
lol
Happy New Year, I really enjoy your video's. See you in 2019.
Will those work on a metric taper though? ☺
No
It's amazing how much pressure 2 tapers can apply.
Yes
Awesome :)
👍
Feel free to embed this video on our homemade tools forum; looks like you're one of us :-) www.homemadetools.net/forum/
Oh we are already following you on Instagram though we like watching you more on TH-cam. Our drill presses are so fragile if we use anything like that chisels it will likely bend the shank arbor spindle and whatever else damage bearings side to side not allowed. Loving on the Die Makers Square mr.pete:) Word of the day be-la-bor ing no never mr.pete you can never over express your messages to us. From your comment yesterday, Yes my day starts early in California 3:00 daily work starts at 6:00 AM daily. The vise on the green milling machine? is that a 6.00 inch Ellis Tools and Manufacturing Company vise? Just learning here. I notice both you and Randy Richards use red dykem instead of the blue just wondering as I was written up for using it out of the inspection department years ago as it indicates rejection or errors in a production shop, not criticizing here just trying o learn about things. In the end a nice working 3 degree wedge repair tool.
Yes, I do love that little square. The reason I use the red dye is this. 20 years ago, someone gave me a case of quarts of the red dye. I pour it into the smaller containers. I gave most of it away, but I still have enough left to take me into the next century.
The vise is a 5 inch Genuine Bridgeport vise. I really like the Bridgeport vises. I have a 5 inch and a six-inch
Interesting. I'd never heard that about red dykem, but it certainly is sensible.
@@ExtantFrodo2 Yes the red dykem was for first article parts run around parts corrections back to programming etc. in production shops aerospace job shops quality control to prevent error dimensional parts from making there way onto or into the good parts areas and to help make a first part to follow making the second and so on, it was what I learned but there is likely many other quality control methods besides this to select from all about controlled flows and error reduction regardless. Thank you for sharing.
@@ActiveAtom thanks that's awesome.
Hello Sir, how thick is the stock you use for these tools?, it looks around 2-3 mm, could that be right?
Can't it be lead soldered onto a block so that it's head and shoulders over vise jaws?
What I am surprised about is, the fact you didn't manufacture the missing components for the Albrecht chuck, and video it instead of using a Jacobs chuck. Would you consider doing that? May make an interesting series!
Absolutely not. I would not know how and it would be near impossible
I have an old Delta 11-990 drill press with a stuck arbor in the quill. I have suspect MT1 can remove it. The arbor is around 10mm wide at the quill.
I’m not able to confirm and any directions would be appreciated!
You are confusing me. Does this drill press have a Morse taper spindle?
And is your chuck held on his Arbor with a Jacobs taper?
lol; get in there. hahaha. old footage but still good stuff.
Would it be possible to have some sacrificial jaws and just machine through them.
Yes. You may have seen me make plastic jaws with the 3-D printer. That is a good idea, I should go back and redo the video with the throwaway Jaws.
That's right, you would not have seen that video, no one watched it, LOL
Excellent Dec. 29 2018
Thanks
Next project: Tubal Caine makes a Jacobs Ladder!
lol
You cut that clearance close, I was puckering for you. I agree anytime you can mount something at an angle in the vice it is the best method. Question did the finished slot need to be at the same angle or was that convenience because of the part being chucked
The angle of the slide could not have mattered any less
I would love to have a milling machine. No more room in the basement for any more machines. I will have to use the Craftsman lathe attachment to do the same. Thank you.
👍
Flex shaft grinders: Have you ever used one? any tips or suggestions on good brands or upgrade parts? I was gifted a SE 979FSG for Christmas. So far I have ordered spare hand pieces to make tool changes faster instead of dealing with the chuck and chuck key. Also a new footswitch but after that I have no idea what I should get for it.
I use a foredom. With Dremel attachments
@@mrpete222 awesome thanks. I know the foredom is the go-to for most people.
hi are all the wedges at 3 degree taper ? if you would post the degrees for the other ones it would be handy ........thanks Eric
I have never measure of the other ones. You will have to do that
thank you but i have none to measure ...lol .........thanks again ...........
What about a sine bar and gauge blocks for a 3 deg mill setup??
Absolutely
do you use the 3degree angle for the other wedges also?
👍
This is why I need a mill.
lol
nice
I imagine that you'll find an alternate use for the extra wedge.
It's already in the recycle bin
Thanks for s haring.
👍
would have messed that up, i was thinking x axis cut which would tended to lift part. y axis best as u did. do have albrech chuck. didnt eat that month.
Yes
I wonder, instead of milling the end of that wedge, could you run it against a belt sander to shape the wedge?
hell yea. A belt sander is bad az.
You knew the answer.
Thanks.
👍
Good video.
Thanks
Happy New Year! I thought the nut just above the chuck, when backed down with a wrench, would remove the chuck!? I have never needed to remove a chuck before, but they have removed themselves at the most inopportune times. Thanks for the Video!
lol
Given my very limited tool collection, I would use calipers and trig to figure out the wedge angle.
I would like to watch you do that in a video. I consider using a sign bar. But that is overkill. And no one would care
mrpete222 Hmmm... If I wasn't so camera shy...
Can you use the same kind of wedge for a Morse taper
???
Chucks don't fit onto a morse taper. a morse taper usually fits into the machine itself. some morse tapers are held in with a drawbar but the majority are held in by the taper itself as in most drill presses. there is a wedge to remove them from a drill press but it is a different style and is insertd in the quill of the drill press and bears against the tang of the morse taper and forces the morse taper out when tapped with a hammer.
The principle is the same. I made some wedges to remove my er32 collet chuck from the mt3 taper in my mill spindle. I use a drill press vise to squeeze the wedges together to extract the taper. Much kinder to the bearings than hitting the drawbar with a soft headed mallet.
Thank you
I don´t think they are too wide. I believe, they make them so narrow to save material (money). But the wider ones have more stability, and that is good.
Yes
Tubalcain brand chuck wedges none better.
Mine did not crack, LOL. Happy new year Harold