How To Remove a Jacobs Taper (When Wedges Don't Fit!!) - MSFN
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 มิ.ย. 2017
- How to remove a Jacobs Taper Arbor from a drill chuck when wedges won’t do the job. I found myself in this situation and had to do some special fixtureing to remove the straight shank arbor so I could replace it with a JT2 to MT2 arbor to use it in my tailstock on my lathe. I hope this video helps you! If you have a better way than demonstrated here….leave it in the comments section! Please Like, Comment and Subscribe! When subscribing….click the notifications “bell” to get notified of newly released videos. Thanks for Watching!
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Please Post YOUR SOLUTION below if you feel it is better than mine to help others that may find themselves in my situation, let's help one another! Thanks! - MSFN
I have been struggling with wedges for a couple days. Thanks for the idea. I cut the end of the arbor off, drill and tapped 1/2-20 thread. A piece of tube, a long bolt and an impact wrench finally freed the oppressed arbor from my 18N.
nice!
I ended up having to do the same thing (used drawbar/pipe) to get mine out. You were a great help! Thanks
stubborn sukkerz! LOL Nice job!
Another nice learning journey shared and thoroughly benefitted by us all.
Your experiments and efforts worked eventually for us to use some day
That Albrecht Chuck is worth every cent and exactly the struggle U put in for it.
Thanks again
ATB
aRM
I paid $0.00 for the chuck...love it! 😊
Bloopers were nice touch! Glad you got it off.
Joe
Ha, glad you hung in that long Joe! :)
Excellent, it always amazes me how well a taper holds
Another 2 methods that work on that style straight shank is drill and tap the end like you did , then just screw in a slide hammer. This prevents dings from hammers hitting chuck.
If it’s a Morse taper shank, and you don’t want to destroy it, drill and tap 1/4-28 thread thru inside of chuck into tapered cavity. Then, install small 1/16 NPT grease zerk. Use grease gun to extract it hydraulically. Then insert small 1/16 npt plug into hole after. Then, you can remove anything after that. They don’t need to be assembled with a 50 ton press either, just light tap with brass hammer.
Cheers
Once you drilled and threaded the straight shank you could have just used a suitable length of pipe between the back of the chuck and bolt head/washer, and used the bolt to pull it apart (same as when extracting suspension bushes) - no wedges required.
But it worked out OK so well done.
Cheers Rob
When I knew "something was giving way" and it wasnt the drill chuck, I feared I was putting too much pressure on the lathe spindle bearings with my original idea so abandoned the lathe and went to the vise. If I could do it all over again I would have gone about it differently. It was a good learning experience. Great suggestion on your part Rob, Thanks! ~ Rich
How would that work? Would you be tightening the bolt to force it out?
I ask because if that is the case, I wonder if the bolt may snap instead. Just a though. Have you tried this method and have success I guess would be my question.
I knew you'd come up with a solution, well done!
I think that "logo" is an arrow that indicates the direction of the blade's rotation.
Oh boy, that was stuck on pretty good. I think I would have machined out the taper shank if it was that stuck on :D
Now that woulda been something! Thats for dropping by Stefan....I was watching your video on sharpening inserts when your comment came in 😊
Very interesting solution. Nice job
Thanks!
Since my first reply I have had to change what I did in order to get a couple of them out.
Two ways I have had to do it differently:
I bought a used 14N chuck and it was mounted for a milling machine arbor. That thing was in there like you would not believe. I tried the wedges and nothing, I tried drilling the end (inside the chuck) and using a press, No luck either way. I ended up using a grinder and cut off wheel (This arbor was hard as flint and carbide inserts where getting chewed up trying to get it) and cut it as close as I could to the chuck and this exposed the softer material inside. I then put a piece of hex stock in my lathe chuck and grabbed the other end with the drill chuck and drilled the arbor until I felt there was only about 1/4" left in depth, then I set my compound to the taper and thinned it as much as I felt I could without hitting the chuck and used a rod and press to get it out.
The second one was a 20N chuck with a #4 MT so I was in your position here where the Jacobs taper was larger than the morse taper on mine so I again placed a piece of stock in my lathe and then tightened the chuck to it and turned the #4 morse taper to 1" diameter for about 2/3rd's of it's length and then single point threaded it to 1"-8tpi, I then made a spacer out of pipe like you did and used two grade 8 washers with grease between them as a thrust washer and tightened the nut. I took it out of the lathe and then hit the tang end of the arbor with a hammer which released a bit of tension allowing me to tighten the nut more, After a few times of this the arbor came free of the chuck. It had a Jacobs brand arbor and the material in them turns freely, actually some of the best metal I have ever threaded.
I struggled with it, at and at times was embarrassing when the initial plan failed....... but was satisfying when it finally broke loose!
I came to the party late! I had the same saw for years- bought it in 1990. It is a Chinese saw, imported to the US by Grizzly (I think- I in Australia.?).The "Logo" is just an arrow showing direction of blade rotation. The modern equivalent from Grizzly is part # G0622.
Logo....heheh....Newbie saw owner....LOL Thanks for the info! ~ Rich
I see Florida has become a bit drippy :) I giggled a bit about the direction arrow. By the end of the video I was cheering for your viking-like use of two war hammers to get-er-done :)
I was trying to avoid hammers to avoid looking like an idiot :) Worst looking direction arrow I ever seen, never saw a HB in person so had no clue. Lol
Richard--great lesson in perseverence! As others have mentioned, the bandsaw is generic Chinese. I have one the same color, same casting marks that is marked "Ram Machinery." I think they were sold under a variety of names, however. The castings are similar or identical to the Harbor Freight $250 bandsaw Item #93762.
I like the bandsaw, it does a good job for me. Thanks for the additional info!
Where there is a will, there is a way. Good job.
These chucks are quite easy to dismantle and you can do it with the arbor in place. Once you've got it apart you can access the other end of the arbor and bang it out with a punch. In extremis you can warm the chuck component to loosen it. As long as the chuck is dismantled and you don't go nuts with the heat that'll be fine.
Hope you are doing well. I have the same problem. Jacobs 4 taper on 3mt stub. the JT4 is bigger than the 4MT so no lip. Tang twisted off 4MT. Maybe I can chuck it to some stock in the lathe chuck and turn off the twisted off tang section and drill and tap as you did. Hmmmm. Thanks for the video.
I was thinking of tapping the outside of the straight shank & using the pipe you made with a nut & washer. As you tighten the nut & washer against the pipe, it should pull it out.
I thought I had it all figured out when I started the video.....LOL
And thanks for the bloopers at least you’re keeping it real..😎
Hey sure you helped me i have for long time already 2drill presses because of i cannot remove one jacobs 13 for 16 going to try the trick so i can get rid of one drill press
Well, this was the first arbor I ever tried to remove, it didnt go as well as I thought it would but eventually I got it off. Them tapers sure hold good! Lol
What a good idea, I would not have thought to tap a hole. Good one there, I am trying to think if here would be a way to use a longer pipe sleeve then use the threads on the bolt you installed to pull it out by turning the bolt into the hole. Thus pulling the two apart. Don't know if that would work but if this comes up around here I am going to try extending on your idea. Thank you a very good one this time.
Thanks Glenn, read Xynudu's comment....I think you are on the same page as him on that line of thinking. It was a nice challenge for me not being a seasoned machinist but was happy to have it finally pop off as you can see from the video :) I have since thought up a few other ways to break the taper since yesterday but am glad everyone commenting is expressing alternatives so others may benefit. Post a vid of your solution, would love to see others tackle this one. Richard
Yes, he did have the same idea I think, Sorry I didn't read the comments before chiming in.
Unless you wanted to save that old arbor, jacobs recommends to drill a cross hole thru the arbor in a location to suit the wedges to drift out the arbor. Works well but does pretty much ruin the old arbor. Start with a small hole less than half the dia. of the arbor, or the arbor could split at the hole an give less to work with for removal.
Yes, that is another way to do it, thanks for sharing 👍🏼
Interesting; I have the exact same brand chuck and the straight 1/2 arbor.
I am going to drill and tap the end and use a pipe slightly longer than the shank.
No the exact same solution but one that was suggested below.
Thanks
It presented a challenge, thought I would show my blunders and final result in the hopes others could learn from my mistakes.
Albrecht is a great chuck....the best!
Great job amigo!
Thanks! 😊
Had you loosened that retaining collar at the top of the chuck? It’s there to retain the chuck so it can be used for milling.
I wonder if a 4 jaw may have held it? My luck usually is like yours in the video!
MSFN you did a great job by being steadfast and not surrendering to the obsinate part! remember, machinery is 90%obstination and 10% inspiration!!! thanks for sharing with us all.
Thanks friend, I am not above making an idiot of myself on occasion 😊 Merry Christmas 🎉
Merry Christmas to you and yours as well ...
Thank You!
Plan D, if all else fails... I once used a drill chuck to mill with an endmill. but the side load removed the chuck from the taper. They can't hold against a side load. Try putting in in a spindle and chuck a bar in the drill chuck , spin it and put a side load on the bar.
I think you did well :-) job done ;-)
Much appreciated :)
U r a smart man yay 😊 thanks
👍🏼 :)
I may be mistaken but I thought that the knurled ring, the one cosest to the taper, acts as a clamp. By undoing the cap head screw that tightens up the split, the knurled ring no longer clamps the taper. You're left with overcoming the frictional/rust forces that are keeping the taper in place inside the Albrecht chuck. The undercut groove in the taper might allow you to fit one of the smaller taper removers to act against the shoulder of the undercut groove. That leaves you with an eigth of an inch or so of clearance to the back of the Albrechet chuck that can be filled with one of the larger taper wedges.
You are completely wrong on all points
I would have tried 1. reducing the spot where the tapers fit to the size taper I had or 2. drilling a hole for a cross-pin rather than drilling and tapping the end. Either way would leave the shank re-usable in the future and would have been fairly quick. The bandsaw is a dead ringer for my old Harbor Freight one. The newer ones have a hole drilled for a pin to keep it in the vertical position. It is also a good idea to stiffen the bottom so it is more stable. I put angle iron on each side and a shelf in the middle to hold bits. Made a huge difference.
All great suggestions, thanks for taking the time to help a new machinist out. I considered the cross-pin but if you saw my drill press you would understand why I took the route I did. Lol I am glad it all worked out in the end :)
No pin on mine to hold in vertical position but easy to install one...thanks! :)
Standard wedges didn't fit a random Chinese chuck I had, so I made a custom pair using a hacksaw, MIG welder, and angle grinder. I did not yet own a mill, then. In this situation, I would make a shaft collar from some random bit of plate or disk, or even a stout bar, large enough to be stopped by a piece of pipe just larger than the chuck. Clamp arbor in shaft collar, drop chuck in pipe, use inertia/impact to separate the two.
mscdirect / Grainger sells Albrecht wedge kit. It's little different then Jacobs...for stubborn one like yours... I found that if you use heat * no more then 250F* ( I have old toaster, 5~10 min) and take a can of compressed air (the one for cleaning keyboards, etc) flip can upside down and it will spray liquid *freon* ( warning frost bite possible) anyways.. Spray bunch on the arbor (Only arbor not chuck) *it will shrink arbor/shaft and break tide seal* now you can slide wedges if needed and it will come off without any resistance..
Thank you for that, I was green at the time (blush) ~ Richard
Static threads will hold a LOT more than twisting threads. I am not sure if the 5/16" threads would have held. I had to take the pivot pins out of my Camaro tilt steering wheel. They were tapped 10-24, I believe or maybe fine thread. Just pulling with the bolt would strip the threads off of the bolt. I even tried a stainless bolt. Same thing. So, I cut the head off of a stainless bolt, took a 1/4" bolt, drilled and taped the threaded end for the same as the thread of the pivot pin, screwed the "stud" into the pivot pin, put my spacers on then screwed the 1/4" bolt onto the other end of the stud. I held the head of the 1/4" bolt with one wrench and ran a nut down on the 1/4" bolt to pull the pivot pins. The stronger bolt threads easily pulled the pivot pins and no threads were damaged.
Nice job, always more than one way to skin a cat :)
I might be mistaken but have you undone the collar on that Albricht chuck, its got a small screw that conpresses it on to the audour, the arbour will not come off without removing it?
The collar doesn't clamp the arbour, it's just for gripping to tighten the chuck and clamps onto the body, it has nothing to do with the arbour
I was thinking you could of cross drilled the shaft, put a dowel pin thru to push off of.
in the end, it all worked out
It was a fun learning experience for a newbie to removing shanks :) Feel free to see one of my other less embarrasing videos! Thanks for dropping by Phil, say hello to Pierre for me ~ Richard
will do Richard.
I would be on plan q by now 😢 quit, nice perseverance and effort.
Thanks Shaun! I appreciate ya! :)
Thats no logo it's an arrow to show the direction of the saw blade
is it ? Dang.... LOL Well....hopefully someone may recognize the saw. Thanks for watching! :)
THANK YOU!, much appreciated...looks just like mine. It works great thus far...just recently bought it. Thx again 👍🏼
Paul Reed
I agree it is. My cheap horror freight has one just like it.
That was my first conclusion of what I thought it was not knowing much about bandsaws, simply because I think very critical. I’ve run into enough tools, accessories, etc. without proper markings, indications, labels, etc. enough where I’ve had to rely on illustrations/photos or just imagining the steps and what the designer(s)/engineer(s) were thinking as they were creating the piece.
I’ve learned that:
a) most designers/engineers are ordinary people;
b) inventions, adaptation, innovations, ect. are a build-up of the existing product;
and c) are usually progressively (by which one can come to logical conclusions by simply studying and observing the product *and* the history behind the product that goes with it).
I just thought I’d mention it not to esteem myself, but to help other readers consider what I have written in order that they may look at a thing, observe it, study where it has been and their past iterations to make a logical conclusion of its current direction that may aid them in resolving a matter as the one in this video.
Also, seeking others’ experiences, knowledge, and advice to consider. More possible solutions make a more informed decision as to which steps and/or method(s) to take.
I have a metal cutting bandsaw exactly like yours and mine was made in China and bought at one of these giant tool sales like they have in parking lots, at warehouses and sometimes on streets down town. Mine does not have a name or manufacturer on it either but what you are calling a logo I think is an arrow cast into it to show the direction of the rotation of the blade to assist in putting the blade on in the correct direction. Sorry I couldn’t help you any more.
Thank you! Yes, I was just a newbie to these machines and learned the hard way about the "logo" via the comment section....I laugh nowadays....damn directional arrow. LOL
Just a thought.... isn’t that a locking screw in the collar? Good to see how you tried different ways of getting the job done. Thanks for sharing. John
Loosening that collar wouldnt help release the taper. Just sharing so that others may benefit. Thx for watchin
@@MakinSumthinFromNuthin What makes you say it wouldn't help? In another arbor removal video I saw, the guy says it's important to remove the collar. Isn't it possible you made your day much harder than necessary by keeping that collar on?
@@GenePavlovsky maybe, but maybe not
looks like a harbor freight bandsaw to me, i have 2 of them and they are wonderful
I like my little saw, best investment I made....paid $100
Hit it sideways ,thats tapers weakness they are great for axial loads since it pushes taper into each other ,not so great for radial forces it loosens it up -thats why you don't mill with taperd chucks -unless its a taper with tread. ,you could use a jackhammer(smaller like drill version-i don't know name in english) for extra vibrations.
I am new to machining so experience is not on my side. It was a $300 chuck and didnt want to damage it, so did my best! :) Thanks for the info!
I drill a 13/64" hole cross ways of the shank and run a piece of 3/16" round HSS through the hole (close enough that the wedges will be trapped between the HSS and the chuck) then close the wedges in a vise and the chuck comes right off. I have done this several times and it has worked perfect every time.
I'm sure you could get away with just about any 3/16" rod as long as it has some temper to it.
thanks!, hopefully someone else benefits from your comment!
That bandsaw is your basic made-in-China 3/4" blade horiz/vertical bandsaw for under $1,000. The logo is an arrow showing blade direction. I assume its identical to the RongFu 712N that I have
I've got the Rong Fu # RF 115. 1/2" x 64.5" band saw. Same arrow. Made in Taiwan. Great little arm saver.
P.S. I have a similar band saw like that here in the UK. It’s quite common - basically a Chinese job that badged engineered for different suppliers. I got some spare from Clarke under the guise of a CBS45MD 370W if that’s any help. I managed to download a parts list after searching the web. J.
Thanks. Viewers educated me quickly its just a cheap chinese saw. I never had one and didnt know a thing about it at the time. LOL
Is it possible to push the spindle out using a press stand, I'm thinking about doing this because my chuck has a hole all the way through.
I am not sure
@@MakinSumthinFromNuthin Done, easy as.
I believe that's a blade directional rotation Arrow. I don't think that's a company logo
It was a directional arrow...LOL Idiot moment! :)
PS: Was my first saw of that type...like it!
Success... my first thought was to make a spit collar with set screws about an inch or inch and a half long with set screws so it could clamp on the straight section of the shaft...
I considered that actually, this way seemed faster but I am sure that would work too. I thought the lathe chuck was more powerful than the jacobs taper but was wrong..thanks for posting another solution as it may help someone else! :)
i have the 12'' delta drill press don,t know to take chuck off
Lyle Peterson (Tubalcain, Mr. Pete222) has a detailed video on removing a chuck from a Delta drill press, its tricky...check it out
Where do you get the wedges? I’m happy for you, you showed a lot of imagination.
Thanks!, got them from SHARS.com
Well done sir.
Thanks Rodman :)
Makin Sumthin From Nuthin You're very welcome.
Just rebuilt the entire deck on my John Deere L110 Mower, replaced spindle bearings, drilled out the 2 other pulleys that they rivet together for some unknown reason and replaced those bearings too (bolted the pulleys back together), replaced belt & blades...sounds & cuts like brand new now 👍🏼
Makin Sumthin From Nuthin That's awesome. I love to hear of things being repaired instead of being replaced. America has become a disposable country. Everything just Getty tossed in the trash an thrown out. Thank you for not being part of the problem. Bravo sir.
I know you do mower repair/maintenance so thought I would let you know :)
I just disassemble the keyless chuck. Once the jaw holder screw is removed you can use a punch or even a press if needed to punch it out from the inside.
That logo is the marking of Harbor Freights Central Machinery model band; Idk that its limited to them alone, but for sure the HFT metal band has that marking
might be a Sterling. I think the 'logo' 2:30 is just an arrow for direction of the blade. This saw appears to be a common casting for many different manufacturers.
Bro 🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥💯😎😎
Well.... I am up to Plan C with mine. Tried 4 jaw, it fails as well. Tried drilling hole and using a pin, the washer bent. (May have worked if I had wedges at the time. Tried using some angle scrap.) Now waiting for set of proper wedges in the mail. Will post results of my Plan C efforts.
Tuff suckers at times!!!!!
Never seen that solution before it worked. I thought you would have to use a hydraulic press to press it out from the inside of the chuck.
A little late to the party, but I was thinking since you weren't planning on keeping the shaft, I would have turned it down and used the #1 wedges
I'm thinking that you have the large model band saw that is sold by harbor freight.
Yeah, its just a cheap chinese type lathe, works great tho 👍🏼😊
I have an older Grizzly 0622 band saw, your and mine look identical. I have come to the conclusion that "check mark" looking thing is a logo of some kind cause i have seen it on a few different machines from Chine/Tiawan.
Well done, I've never tried to remove a chuck from a straight shank but I'm sure that it would have involved a Big Hammer and Fire : )
Don't power tap with your keyless chuck...not good for the chuck.
Is there a screw in the chuck?
Ok one tip make sure you fix your vice to the work bench
Its not often I use the vise and I am always moving it around for different things so never saw the need to bolt it down...I just clamp it where its needed. I need a bigger shop! :)
Makin Sumthin From Nuthin i did before the same till the clamps got lose. Lucky i was wearing safety boots 😣 Btw nice videos
Is there some reason You Tube has removed your video? Black screen is all I am getting for this (Jacobs Taper). Seems a couple other channels have a segment doing this also. Take care. Doug
Its a youtube glitch, just refresh your browser and reload the page. It happens to me a lot and is aggravating
Makin Sumthin From Nuthin Thanks. Doug
Now for the harder question, how do you remove a morse taper (Doesn't have a tang) from a tailstock if it is stuck?
Remove the quill and tap it out from the backside, reassemble tailstock
@@MakinSumthinFromNuthin Cool, thanks man! By any chance, do have more content on the way? Your stuff is pretty good.
Thank you. Honestly, I wont be back on TH-cam for quite some time
:-(
Just a guess but, that looks like a Harbor Freight bandsaw. I was
thinking Grizzly at first due to color but, a TH-cam video showed an HF
that was really close to yours.
Thanks. No telling, but works great 😊
no hold that taper in you hand and tap the chuck with a small (not sledges like yours) hammer just once its the side-wards blow that breaks the seal
I've removed suspension ball joints using that exact technique. Helps a lot if you can supply some sort of separating pressure as well.
Where can i buy this wedges i dont want to make it by my self.
Home Depot sells them online, MSC, Amazon. Ebay. Go to Jacobs site to get the correct number for what you are working on and order that set. They are usually $12-$15 a set.
I got mine from Shars.com
would not a gear puller work?
I dont see how one could, it was an interesting learning experience :)
heat
Liquid Nitrogen?? on the arbor?
I never used LN.....dunno
Heat often helps. Also, you weren't cursing enough.
Ahhhhh, the gift of editing film :)
Makin Sumthin From Nuthin for me the cussin' would come when the taper popped and the chuck fell on my foot!
Greased, rusted into tapper for long time. Put vinegar and soda powder that can some acids to loosen residues inside the chuck -tapper
That saw, got one RAM MACHINERY.
LOL what is this portavise ?
Portavise....I like that! LOL
Late, and maybe a crazy idea...
Can you heat the chuck, maybe almost to 200 F and dunk the arbor into ice water?
Bolt that damn vise down! Lol good job not backing down from that fight.
Lmao, I use that vise lotsa places....What I need is a real shop! It tried to whoop me!! 😎
Yeah, I think should have at least clamped the vise down to hold it still.
King Canada metal cutting band saw
It works good, I like it!
My problem is that my taper is in the drill press and won't come out.
If its never been out it could be problematic. Rust or corrosion is possible depending on where previous owners stored it
I gotta ask, why not just disassemble the chuck and tap it out? I don't understand the wedges.
Tap it out?, I dont follow you?
Makin Sumthin From Nuthin
disassemble the chuck, use a punch and drift the arbor out from the front
I dont believe there is a thru hole to access the arbor in Albrecht chucks....I could be wrong tho. It all worked out in the end 😊
grab the chuck by the two nurled sections and screw them apart, that will remove the hood (tapered section). then the jaws and jaw guide will come out. under that is a threaded piece that pushes the jaws, screw that out. insert a drift punch into the hole that the threaded part was screwed into and tap out the arbor.
Thanks!, I did not know....but I do now. I appreciate ya! 👍🏼
You forgot to yell 'STUPID THING' after it popped off! ;-)
Dont know if you got your answer but the bandsaw is china made in largte numnbers and companies put their own name on it. Just got one myself. And fighting with a jacobs taper too :)
I had the bandsaw for like one day when that was posted....everyone educated me! Some called me stupid! LOL
Dont let the taper whoop ya like mine did! ~ Richard
I know it's years later. Should have started with Kroil and let creep into the chuck taper.
The last time I dropped a drill chuck like that it landed on the jaws and all of the internal gear teeth shattered like glass :'(
:(
Wells
I've been busy.. Was looking up my chuck to show someone what they will do and found this..
When you get your mill, or want to upgrade your drill press, check out this chuck..
The Ultimate Keyless chuck.. Change your drill bits on the fly without stopping the rotation..
I don't think they make these any longer, but, some one might be.. I have a 3/8" and a 1/2" version.. Check out this video, and put it on your "one Day List".. Ha.. Cheers my friend!!
th-cam.com/video/mrQjVVehcII/w-d-xo.html
Great info Mark!! Thanks for watching & Happy Holidays! 😊🎉
More then one way to skin a cat, Problem is not everyone owns a cat skinner.
AKA : I don't ahve the machines you do or machine shop I can work with this stuff in.
A differnt way to remove it might have been a steering or pulley puller, or you could grind on it hit it with Ice cold Dry Ice
heat the chuck and chill the shank, this will unwedge the parts or should. Soak it in wd40 for a few days and hope it helps
Grind flats on it and try to turn the shank using shock hits with a dead blow hammer.
My problem is the drill press dosn't have a Morres taper shank drill chuck, the drill chuck spins on the arbor, and inspection inside the chuck does not show a screw or allen cap bolt.
A: how do I get it off
B: how do I make it solid so I can use it as a drill press and not a chunk of metal taking up floor space?
This is a cheap delta knock off drill press from China. But it has a solid quell unlike the new crap they are making.
All good suggestions you offered, my issue was this was my 1st chuck/arbor removal and I didnt want to damage a $375 chuck. Most likely your chuck screws on....I believe Mr. pete (Tubalcain) has many Delta drill presses and has done videos on chuck removal. It does not have a screw or allen bolt because it screws on if I am not mistaken. Search his vids...I remember there was a trick to unscrewing it~ Richard
9:40 I'd say he lives in sunnyville
Florida 😊, thanks for watching!
Rather than the work involved in drilling, tapping, I'd have welded some scrap to the end, then if the old straight arbor was to be kept, then simply grind it off again.
Jeez.. wedges ALWAYS fit... you just need a BIGGER hammer !!
Ha, mission accomplished so all is well! :)
I woulda done it like sex with the girlfriend (one side HOT and the other COLD)
:)
You placed your wedges on the wrong end of your collar, thus they got "wedged" into place. If you had used them on the end adjacent to the lathe jaws, they couldn't get captured, and the collar would push directly against the chuck.
I had a heck of a time that day! LOL Yes, I am sure your idea woulda worked out much better..probly less fuss :)
Hang in there. You know what is said about us armchair quarterbacks. I enjoyed your video.
I would have welded the pipe to the spindle and have at it
My 1st rodeo removing a MT2 arbor. LOL. I was afraid of damaging the free Albrecht chuck
I believe that is a grizzly bandsaw
Thanks, got the saw figured out and got a manual now 😊
Plan A, the Chuck on the lathe could have been repeated, incrementally...
That’s working on an old piece of equipment for you. Never goes as planed and then you need to get creative. Idea worked damn good though.
Not a logo, blade direction!
My first saw!! LOL Caught hell over that for years now!......well deserved!!!
why not drill a hole thru the taper shaft , stick a rod thru it to give you leverage???
wth?
see, you didnt need our help. lol
Thank God! LOL I wasnt about to let a chuck beat me :)