I worked late last night. I did not get a chance to try your method. I'll get back to you as soon as I have. I really appreciate you posting this info on You Tube!
I have been struggling on and on for years trying to get a Morris taper arbor out of one of these chucks! I am going to give your method a try this evening! Thanks for posting this valuable info!
It's good to see you joining in The Giveaway, too. Thank you for sharing your videos. Watching the videos your and Keith have published makes me want to get myself a lathe, but I don't think my apartment neighbors would appreciate me keeping them up at all hours while I make chips! Keep up the good work!
Nice video, as all your videos are, my friend. Thanks for sharing your experiences, and I'm sure I'm not alone when I say, I appreciate the time you take to make these. Dave
Thank you so much! This method worked pretty well for me, except for one thing: I couldn't find a large enough wrench, and all of my wrenchs were untapered. To remove the drill chuck, after getting the collar off, I milled a tapered piece of aluminum of some small arbitrary angle. Then I cut a slot in the side of it with a 3/4" end mill and used that to wedge the chuck off. It took a bit of hammering, but I got in the end.
Hello again. I just had to try to remove the arbor from my chuck. I tried making a poor mans removal tool to remove the arbor. No luck, all I managed to do was get my wrench stuck in place. So...onward and disassemble the whole thing and try to remove it with my arbor press. I watched a video last night showing the disassembling and service of the chuck. Taking it apart is very easy to do.It unscrews exactly like you said. This chuck is very well made with close tolerances inside the bore. Now comes the fun part. I tried to press out the arbor with my 2 ton arbor press, but it would not budge. Looks like it will have to be pressed out using a much more powerful press, probably a hydraulic press. I was able to order a replacement 6JT 2MT from Mc Masters. It will probably arrive here, before I can get this thing pressed out, but oh well. Something new every day.
The little short stubb arbors are for either use in a collet of a milling machine or in a turret type tailstock. sometimes those suckers can get really jammed in there. especially if you add in any kind of rust. Worst case scenario a little heat may work to get it unstuck. Also a nice bath in some penetrating oil may help. Just be sure to get it all thoroughly cleaned of oil or grease before the new arbor goes in.
Although I subscribe to your channel, I didn't find this video until today when I did a TH-cam search. I needed to remove the MT2 arbor from an Albrecht chuck to replace it with a R8 arbor. I found that a 16mm wrench that came with my Bosch router was the perfect size. I sanded a small taper on the end to help it start and with a fair amount of tapping with a hammer, I had success. Thanks for the idea!
Though I had the Jacobs wedges, I could not separate the arbor from the chuck. I applied so much force that the arbor slid out of the collet rather than the arbor releasing from the chuck. The solution was applying a few drops of Kroil where the arbor and chuck meet and let it sit overnight. The next day I used a pair of ball-peen hammers and drove the wedges against one another. It took 5 tries to synchronize the blows with adequate force before the chuck released.
The key-less chuck is a valuable addition to the shop. The Machinery's Handbook is and excellent reference book but it is far from self explanatory and can be very intimidating, especially when it comes to math
Great things to have for the giveaway,, and thanks for the oversize drill bit in the key less chuck tip I have a mediocre chuck that works well and I have always used my large drills in them,,oops
I watched this video awhile back even before I got my lathe. When I got the lathe, I came across what looks like your Albrecht chuck, but didn't have a clue what the previous owner used it for. It too had the same short shaft sticking out of the bottom. It wouldn't fit in my chuck, so back into the drawer it went. Now watching your video I now see how that chuck will become useful. So ! out to the garage at 9:30 PM to check it out. Well this chuck turns out to be a CUSHMAN brand chuck and is stamped Japan C13k 6JT. 1/2 " cap. Now that kinda scares me. Looking at the base, that shaft looks pretty large. If I remove that shaft, am I looking at having a problem finding a replacement shaft to fit my lathe. My lathe is identical to yours. What possible use would that short shaft have ? Thanks again for all these great videos. My wife refers to my lathe as "That other woman" because I am spending so much time out in the garage. ...Ken
There is no benefit to chilling a tapered shank prier to insertion, as driving with marginally more force will achieve the same effect. It is actually a detriment to chill a shaft in a freezer, in industry a freezer is never used because water that has condeznsated will be trapped then lead to corrosion. For straight shafts either heating alone is used, or chilled with nitrogen or CO2 free of moisture and oxygen. In addition oil or grease is added for ease or removal in the future.
Cheers, I just bought 2x Albrecht chucks on ebay, a O - 3/8 in near new cond. It has a Jacobs 1/2" arbor that I want to change to #1 morse. I also bought a 0 - 5/16 that I want to put a new 1/2" arbor in. I wasn't aware that drilling through the arbor & putting a pin through to remove arbor with drifts could be done, excellent !. The latter chuck was a great buy because the jaws are cactus, but the chuck is otherwise O.K. I will replace the jaws but I am not sure the model, I could not see it stamped. Or are all these chucks the same jaws ? I'll subscribe because that was a good video on this type of chuck... Cheers, Pedro... "Merry Xmas".......
Usually the model is stamped on the side or at least the size range. The jaws for each range are different and the albrecht rebuild kits can be a bit pricey.
***** Cheers for your reply. I made the tooling needed to dismantle the 0 to 5/16" chuck & it was very simple with the right gear. There was a bit of surface rust internally but I gave the parts a gentle polish with very fine wet & dry on the lathe & thoroughly cleaned every part, it will be a good chuck again provided I can get the right jaws. I will knock the old arbor out while it's in pieces. Thanks again for your help. Pedro...
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Thanks for the tutorial. Just removed a JT33 arbor from my Albrecht using your recommended wrench technique. Worked perfectly!
I worked late last night. I did not get a chance to try your method. I'll get back to you as soon as I have. I really appreciate you posting this info on You Tube!
had a 1/2 shank stuck on a Albrecht chuck, 5 minutes after watching this the arbor is off, great tip
I have been struggling on and on for years trying to get a Morris taper arbor out of one of these chucks! I am going to give your method a try this evening! Thanks for posting this valuable info!
It's good to see you joining in The Giveaway, too. Thank you for sharing your videos. Watching the videos your and Keith have published makes me want to get myself a lathe, but I don't think my apartment neighbors would appreciate me keeping them up at all hours while I make chips! Keep up the good work!
Nice video, as all your videos are, my friend.
Thanks for sharing your experiences, and I'm sure I'm not alone when I say, I appreciate the time you take to make these.
Dave
Thank you so much! This method worked pretty well for me, except for one thing:
I couldn't find a large enough wrench, and all of my wrenchs were untapered. To remove the drill chuck, after getting the collar off, I milled a tapered piece of aluminum of some small arbitrary angle. Then I cut a slot in the side of it with a 3/4" end mill and used that to wedge the chuck off. It took a bit of hammering, but I got in the end.
Hello again. I just had to try to remove the arbor from my chuck. I tried making a poor mans removal tool to remove the arbor. No luck, all I managed to do was get my wrench stuck in place. So...onward and disassemble the whole thing and try to remove it with my arbor press. I watched a video last night showing the disassembling and service of the chuck. Taking it apart is very easy to do.It unscrews exactly like you said. This chuck is very well made with close tolerances inside the bore. Now comes the fun part. I tried to press out the arbor with my 2 ton arbor press, but it would not budge. Looks like it will have to be pressed out using a much more powerful press, probably a hydraulic press. I was able to order a replacement 6JT 2MT from Mc Masters. It will probably arrive here, before I can get this thing pressed out, but oh well. Something new every day.
The little short stubb arbors are for either use in a collet of a milling machine or in a turret type tailstock. sometimes those suckers can get really jammed in there. especially if you add in any kind of rust. Worst case scenario a little heat may work to get it unstuck. Also a nice bath in some penetrating oil may help. Just be sure to get it all thoroughly cleaned of oil or grease before the new arbor goes in.
Although I subscribe to your channel, I didn't find this video until today when I did a TH-cam search. I needed to remove the MT2 arbor from an Albrecht chuck to replace it with a R8 arbor. I found that a 16mm wrench that came with my Bosch router was the perfect size. I sanded a small taper on the end to help it start and with a fair amount of tapping with a hammer, I had success. Thanks for the idea!
Glad the video helped :-)
That is a good time chilling down the arbor for a few hours in a freezer
Great info. Thanks
Excellent video.
Thank you!
This I Learned - Silver and Deming bit - I did not that is what they were called. Thanks for the share, good vid.
Loveley video helped me immensely
worked for me, thanks
Great items for the giveaway!! Keith's gonna need a more than two boxes come November I think!!
good info
really helpful thank you.
Though I had the Jacobs wedges, I could not separate the arbor from the chuck. I applied so much force that the arbor slid out of the collet rather than the arbor releasing from the chuck. The solution was applying a few drops of Kroil where the arbor and chuck meet and let it sit overnight. The next day I used a pair of ball-peen hammers and drove the wedges against one another. It took 5 tries to synchronize the blows with adequate force before the chuck released.
The key-less chuck is a valuable addition to the shop. The Machinery's Handbook is and excellent reference book but it is far from self explanatory and can be very intimidating, especially when it comes to math
Great things to have for the giveaway,, and thanks for the oversize drill bit in the key less chuck tip I have a mediocre chuck that works well and I have always used my large drills in them,,oops
I watched this video awhile back even before I got my lathe. When I got the lathe, I came across what looks like your Albrecht chuck, but didn't have a clue what the previous owner used it for. It too had the same short shaft sticking out of the bottom. It wouldn't fit in my chuck, so back into the drawer it went. Now watching your video I now see how that chuck will become useful. So ! out to the garage at 9:30 PM to check it out. Well this chuck turns out to be a CUSHMAN brand chuck and is stamped Japan C13k 6JT. 1/2 " cap. Now that kinda scares me. Looking at the base, that shaft looks pretty large. If I remove that shaft, am I looking at having a problem finding a replacement shaft to fit my lathe. My lathe is identical to yours. What possible use would that short shaft have ? Thanks again for all these great videos. My wife refers to my lathe as "That other woman" because I am spending so much time out in the garage. ...Ken
If you have a 3/4" chuck can you go up to a 3/4" shank?
There is no benefit to chilling a tapered shank prier to insertion, as driving with marginally more force will achieve the same effect. It is actually a detriment to chill a shaft in a freezer, in industry a freezer is never used because water that has condeznsated will be trapped then lead to corrosion. For straight shafts either heating alone is used, or chilled with nitrogen or CO2 free of moisture and oxygen. In addition oil or grease is added for ease or removal in the future.
"just a quick video" almost 20 minutes quick that is.
Cheers,
I just bought 2x Albrecht chucks on ebay, a O - 3/8 in near new cond. It has a Jacobs 1/2" arbor that I want to change to #1 morse. I also bought a 0 - 5/16 that I want to put a new 1/2" arbor in. I wasn't aware that drilling through the arbor & putting a pin through to remove arbor with drifts could be done, excellent !. The latter chuck was a great buy because the jaws are cactus, but the chuck is otherwise O.K. I will replace the jaws but I am not sure the model, I could not see it stamped. Or are all these chucks the same jaws ?
I'll subscribe because that was a good video on this type of chuck...
Cheers, Pedro... "Merry Xmas".......
Usually the model is stamped on the side or at least the size range. The jaws for each range are different and the albrecht rebuild kits can be a bit pricey.
*****
Cheers for your reply. I made the tooling needed to dismantle the 0 to 5/16" chuck & it was very simple with the right gear. There was a bit of surface rust internally but I gave the parts a gentle polish with very fine wet & dry on the lathe & thoroughly cleaned every part, it will be a good chuck again provided I can get the right jaws. I will knock the old arbor out while it's in pieces.
Thanks again for your help.
Pedro...
Hey I want that feeds speeds card
Who else started repeatedly checking there iPhone for a text around the 13:00 mark :D
Are you an American? I can understand your language but Is there no Filipino version?
Yes, I can confirm they make a 5/8" but no, they don't make a 3/4".
Not so simple if it's a 2 morse taper arbor.