Everyone's talking about power goals, and I'm in my 2004 WRX and I'm satisfied with 300-320 hp. I'm not trying to be the fastest on the streets, as is I can keep up with A LOT of things. I just wanna be able to keep doing what I'm doing.
Recently spun a bearing in my stock FRS.. Think I’m gonna go with a IAG stage 1 short block that way when it is time for forced induction down the road, the engine will be stronger. This video helped a lot !!
@@joegrant2828in what world? My Subaru shop near me charges 2659 for labor to replace a shortblock. Shortblock is about 2000 dollars. Plus at least 1000 in parts and labor for the heads. How are you looking at 11k dollars?
@@joshuathomas4934 i spun rod bearing. Shot metal all through block and turbo. I called tuner shops they wanted 11 grand to replace. Subaru tech ended up charging me 9k with new turbo. Where do you live. And are they giving you rebuilt block. Or brand new
@@joshuathomas4934 curious to hear where you are getting such cheap labor from. Subaru wrx stis arent cheap to maintain and also expensive to add alot of power to. The engine from my year had lots of these problems. Subaru got tired of paying even though there fault.
Your the man! My 2004 sti came back with 40 psi low on a cylinder... this is exactly the information I needed, I am thinking of going with IAG stage 2! Thank you !!!!
This video is great! Im glad I picked up the IAG stage 2.5 tuff block. When I called IAG they were super helpful with finding my the right block and other parts based on the power and what i wanted to use it for.
@j3jymann so far it has held up very well. I've only done about 6k miles but most of that is on the track or autocrossing. It gets all the fluids changed multiple times a season and the motor is holding up very very nicely
Keep the trumpet solute song handy in your car then when it blows, you can solute it while blasting that song on the side of the road till your trailer comes.
Such a perfect timing. I've been thinking about buying an ej207 v7 or rebuild my ej205, maybe boreing out the walls making it a 2.1L with a twinscroll setup. Both are gonna be difficult so I'm stuck
Nice vid 🤙🏼 I spun a rod bearing in my car. Went with a built block by Crawford. Might never utilize its full potential but it was extremely important to me to have forged pistons.
@@Smeedia It is completely unmodified besides a cat back exhaust so I'm hoping it'll make it to at least 200k! Like you saw though I'm gunna have new motor and trans on the ready for when it goes lol
Perfect video I just blew my fa20. I’d like to go the RA route. Just trying to find a shop that will build this for me. Some shops in Texas will only put iag in.
My motor blew previous owner beat the hell out of it and traded in and I bought it. Cylinder 4 went thankfully I caught it right when it happened. Went IAG Stage 2 block and couldn’t be happier.
Ooohhh I've come so far since my last comment on this video.. Today's the day I get my type RA Shortblock!! I already got a new vf48, and I plan on having the heads decked and valves done. I''m hoping that I'll have the closest thing to a new 2012 STI as possible..
Blew my FA20DIT, happens that putting forged internals is cheaper than going the OEM route. So I guess I will have some potential for more ponies down the road :D
My engine timing chain tensioners broke , Fn up the valves and rocker arms. Swapped it out with a newer engine...of course ...it was a 2.2 Ecotec by GM LoL
You don't have to use a JDM ecu with a JDM swap. You swap a cam pulley and the crank pulley. That's all you have to do. Easy peasy. You will need a tune and you CAN use an Access Port. You don't need to go open source.
OMG, this video is perfect for me since my car just blew up on the DYNO today. I was doing a stage 2 plus tune on my 2016 STI and the motor seized up, so I am assuming it was a rod/bearing. I cried inside when it happened earlier today, so I'm trying to push through it. Maybe an IAG stage 1 or stage 2 short block? Might just machine the heads and get them all cleaned up. Thinking of an FP turbo of some sort? Thanks man--love your vids, Bro!
@@Smeedia I'd be happy with 400-450 whp. Yeah it was a very sad moment. My Subaru guru buddies recommend maybe a stage 1 IAG block? I'd be happy with that. I would upgrade turbo, oil pump etc.. since I don't know for sure where all the little metal critters from rod bearing migrated too.
So I talked to IAG about the stage 3 FA20 block and trying to hit that 800 rating that they have set for that block, and the whole list of what they gave me was $16k. Seems a bit expensive if you ask me
Yeah, Uncle Rodney came a knocking on cylinder #2 about 2 weeks ago. My poor 2015 STi has a gnarly tick/knock now. Out the door (provided nothing extra is needed) I got quoted at $7.6k for a rebuild with forged internals (Manley). That's everything. Removal, teardown, cleaning, honing, new internals (forged rods, pistons, & king racing bearings), new timing belt & water pump, etc. All in all, I was expecting much worse. With that said, if you're from WNY (Buffalo specifically), I'd highly recommend Smukall Performance for your WRX or STi. He sold it to me. He installed my new ACT clutch & flywheel for a fair price. He knows his shit when it comes to these cars and I'm VERY neurotic about who I let work on my car as I typically did everything when I still worked in a shop. Alas, no lift, no way I'm doing this one 🤣. Sure, some jackstands, a cherry picker, and maximum effort would do it, but I'm getting older and don't have that kind of drive anymore. Let alone the time required. That would cut the costs dramatically, BUT... again, time. I'd need at least 3 - 5 days to do this on my own. 1 for teardown. However long the machine shop would need for honing the heads. Then a couple days on the rebuild to be sure I didn't miss anything. Yeah... don't have that kind of time available these days. Being a slave to a 9 - 5 (er' 7 - 3 in my case) 5 days a week doesn't leave much room for such ventures.the
Hey I saw your post. Did you end up doing your rebuild with Smukall Automotive? I want to rebuild my block to beef it up. My car runs well but I want to play it safe.
@Doug Castle yes. Don Jr. over at Smukall knows what he's doing. As I previously stated, I'm super neurotic when it comes to ANYONE else doing work on my car aside from me. He's down to earth and does good work. Smukall gave me a fair quote out the gate, and I didn't even bother shopping past it as I doubted greatly that anyone locally was going to do better. $7.6k included a used bare block as the walls of cylinder #2 were scored beyond general repair (without sleeving it anyway). Manly Forged Pistons. King Race Bearings. Subaru OE crank & rods. Honed the heads. Valve job. The works, in short. I'm about 750 miles shy of finishing the break-in, and so far, so good!! Nearing the 3k mark of break-in oil change #2 and the level hasn't dropped. Anyone who knows EJs should find this fact rather interesting. Granted, before the motor was cooked and was eating oil like it was going out of style, but even healthy EJs have been known to chew up around 1 quart per 3k. This gives me high hopes that the rings seated perfectly and this trend theoretically should continue. One last thing, semi-unrelated, but worthy of sharing. One thing I noticed, even before the motor started to go south, it's not a fan of heat. Days where the ambient temp is above 80, even post rebuild, it runs notably more rough. That WAS the case until about a week ago when I installed the Velossa Tech Big Mouth Ram Air snorkel. This thing is a game changer! I ran the A/C full blast, 90°+ outside, and she was idling smooth as SILK. Look into it if you're not happy with summer EJ rough idles. Worth every freaking penny in my book! www.velossatechdesign.com/
I just spun a bearing on my 08 sti. Looking at the type ra sb and the only difference is the piston design. Comparing that with the iag stage one, I feel more at ease with the stage one because everything is forged and they use better bearings. I do have full bolt ons with an fp green. Was hoping at making around 450 whp with my current setup. Which would you recommend going?
I'd suggest the type RA, they're reliable blocks for a fantastic price. You can snag RA blocks for under $2,000 if your not looking to make more than 450whp I'd always suggest an RA. My old 05 STI had an RA block making 460WHP and I beat thr hell out of it. Never had an issue and the block still runs fantastic
Why was I looking this up last night and now this comes about! Catastrophic engine failure in my 15’ STI, was trying to find out if it’s cost effective to go OEM (More expensive) or just go IAG 2 Tuff. Tough decisions 🤣
@@Smeedia yea when I was looking last 15+ STI longblocks are in the high 8-9k range, meanwhile a 2 Tuff is 3600. Didn’t think about RA stuff, now just to find out if my heads are good 🤣
@@Smeedia Cyl 2 windowed top of the block, can see Cylinder wall ravaged so hoping it didn’t make it up to the head but who knows, we shall see once winter goes away 🤙🏼
So I haven’t blown up the ‘18 STI yet, but I’m already going down the rabbit hole of building a motor. I want an overbuilt reliable 600hp on 93. With as FLAT a torque curve as possible. What sort of setup would you recommend? Long block or short block? I was thinking of getting an IAG 900 setup and running only 600hp with it so it’s overbuilt af. Long block, short block, closed deck, open deck? There’s just so many options out there lol. I just want to keep the track handling sort of setup but have 600hp on tap if i want it. But what sort of motor build/turbo setup would your recommend based on the stuff I stated? Stuff will always break, but I want a beefy setup cuz nobody wants to be *that guy*. You know that guy. The one who blows up his subaru 4x and keeps doing things half assed
I recently bought the stage 2 tuff block, rated at 625 bhp. This will accomplish my goal of 400whp safely. Great videos keep up the good work. I follow you on the fb group as well. Honestly I’ve heard and seen proof of many ppl pushing this block in particular over 500whp. It’s just like any other engine, once you go past a certain point, the longevity of its life is shortened.
@@Smeedia yes all drop in ready you'd have to call them for availability. Last time I checked I belive they have 4 or 5 of the full drivetrains. I'm saving up for one now to drop into my bugeye
I know I won't blow my motor. I have 95k on my stock STI. It has a Koyo Radiator, IAG AOS, GDT Cylinder 4 Cooling, and never used a Cobb OTS tune. Just had her 90-105k service done. Its getting tuned in a couple days for just an intake. I know the cars limits. Not worried about the engine blowing.
I only swap 2JZ’s and LS ONLY no matter what platform it is 😆 jk. Thanks for that info.. It never even crossed my mind when JDM swapping. good to know!
What are the difference between EJ257 and EJ207? The JDM is a smaller engine so does it still have potential for more power than the US one? Is the RA even better than the JDM?
Been looking around for a cost effective option, since my ej255 looks like it might be on its way out (ringlands, probably 😑). Never considered an oem SB before, but I like the price. Would the Type RA SB be compatible with the D25 WRX heads? Really looking for a reliable-ish 350-400 wheel daily driver (after other mods, obviously).
@@Smeedia Cool, I'm gonna look more into it. Thanks for the info, as always, and I appreciate that you actually read and reply to comments. Shows you care 🤙
Luckily they put the ra block in the 19+ sti as well, I am hoping they prove to be able to make 500 up reliably..... but for mine I am thinking 400 whp just to keep it hopefully more to the safe side
Thanks for the information on the various engine options. With cars nowadays have so many sensors and computers, if i go with an aftermarket block, does it mean i have to replace all the existing wiring and ecu so that I don’t get some gremlin electrical and fault codes?
Well I guess now since I’m installing a new built block I guess I should probably upgrade my turbo too. Damn I need more fueling now to max this turbo out. $18,000 dollars and 1 year later... Damn I should of bought an engine that could handle 1000whp because 600whp isn’t enough anymore. It just never ends.
My Subaru has a rod knock so I bought a new type RA block do I need to take the heads to get resurfaced ? Even tho the car didn’t heat up? Because you take the heads when your car get over heat on my case it didn’t I moneyshift I need help lmao
How much would charge me to rebuild my block for me it has rod knock I got they car 2 weeks go from dealership and I only drove it 354 miles and got rod knock:/
What sort of engine would you recommend for 270 - 300 awkw? Do you loose alot if bottom end Torque with an EJ207 compared to a EJ255 or EJ257? really appreciate your help 🙏
@@Smeedia Do you have to replace the pistons on the 257 RA motors if I'm aiming for the 300 awkw mark? Can I have standard size forged pistons installed without having to home the new block, or is honing unavoidable? Thankyou so much for your input Means alot
Idk if you have any plans on uploading about this but how’s the Neon SRT4? Anything interesting happening with that process? I haven’t heard about it in a while
I Just spun a bearing at 40K with 300HP... Big sad. Oil temps starting to increase by a ton. Looked like I was panning for gold in my oil pan. Stage 1 IAG going in Aug 10.
Been a long time watcher and never thought I would have to re visit this video my 16 wrx is knocking and its confirmed rod knock. Not sure what my next steps will be, f Ill go built or not. From your experience what would you suggest? It was just a fun daily I have 5k saved up for emergency car stuff so Im willing to spend all that plus some to get it done right. My goal before engine blew was to do flex fuel kit next and that's it but now I might have to go full beans lol. I just need pointed in a direction this is a new area for me I haven't done research on engine components before. mods egr and tgv deletes catted downpipe bypass valve cold air intake ecbs
Just reliable fun in the low 400s is what i want to do some guys in my car club recommend Sri swapping it for cheaper but I’ve gotten a lot of recommendations and you seem to put reliability high up on your list then most which is one of the reasons i like watching your videos so much.
If just low 400s, built internals rods and pistons, a little head work and the motor should hold just fine. Swapping an EJ into an FA car is doable but not worth the work IMO
I recently got a 2009 Impreza wrx with a 2019 STI short block since last owner I guess blew it off or whatever, This thing is way to fucking fast and is still on stock!!! Last owner also recommend me to get a tunner in case I decided to add more to the car is clean tittle got it for 9.5k with 82k miles. I think is a great deal.
Maybe a silly question, but is the original engine number registered somewhere with a STI? I always hear those Muscle car guys talk about a numbers matching car. Curious if that’s something that could help a STI holding its value.
Not so much with these cars, they made so many VA chassis subarus that I don't foresee them increasing in value with the exception of the S209 or the type RA
Hi Tanna. This thing is going to be a total beast. Did you update your life insurance just as a precaution lol. Waiting for this motor got me feeling like I'm 10 and wanting for santa to 🎅🎅🎅. Need some wheel & tyres advice for my 09wrx. I really like the look of the R888 tyres?? 🤘🤘🤘🤘
Lol sammmmme, been waiting for it to come back! And the R888 are great tires, keep in mind there are not too many evacuation channels for water on them so on wet days they might be pretty slick when driving 🙏
@@Smeedia so definitely new for the summer tyres. 🌞. Are you going to be swapping the exhaust system for the new motor??. Forgot to say I finally got a guy to custom build the pipes for my rear box and it sounds like a RB22 sti. Had a long wait finding the right person to do the work, but well worth it. I'll get some pictures and IG you 👌🤘
What WHP levels should I be making on a 2.5 IAG closed deck, FP Black, 2200 CCs injectors, Flex fuel, 545 hellcat fuel pump, ETS 4 inch front mount, ELH, S2 cams, and other supporting mods ??
i have an 05 sti spun a bearing...2 questions...Is it possible to make it more reliable than stock? #2 can u make it more reliable than stock while having more power than stock? (nothing crazy 300-350 maybe even 400-450 wheel)
Honestly I don’t know if my engine (ej255) is fucked. I have a tick coming from my engine, and don’t want to take it to the dealership. sounds internally, happens more when I rev it but also happens at idle. Sounds like some metal to metal and like something is loose. I have a Cobb AP and my dam and knock learns are good. Tried checking for exhaust leaks but can’t find any. The sound comes from the left and right side of the block. Any suggestions?
I just spun a bearing last week on my STi hatch.. but Im just trying to keep mine reliable and maybe just throw couple bolts ons and that’s it ... should I do forged internals or do everything oem ?
Snag. Type RA block, pretty beefy for an OEN short block. Flat iron tuning sells them for around $1800 or so and people have made 600+ with them. Perfect for a mild bolt on platform 🙏
Recently spun a rod bearing on my stock block 09 STi, I purchased a Type RA short block, will the stock heads work? and is there anything i should be looking for when swapping in the new short block?
Dude rockin a 2014 STI hatch, it’s the main family mobile, would a aftermarket intercooler or radiator be better for longevity? Stock rad seems to be holding up cooling for as well As intercooler keeping stock power for dd. Btw moving back to WA soon what’s the shop you work at, might need some work
It's called The Mod Garage 🙏 and no need for a larger rad under daily driving conditions. If you decide to push more power then I'd suggest snagging one. But the stock top mount is pretty good
@@Smeedia Word just more weight/ inefficient cooling? Lol to be honest just looking to turn wrenches for fun. Idk how you find time to reply to these haha
Me and my brother built a bugeye pushing 20 psi like instantly lol motor blew a year after we tuned it instead of putting a new motor in we crushed the car regret it all the time
okay man so i have been watching your videos always ... right now i am rebuiding my 2008 sti hatch. bearing went. so i went ahead and bought a 2020 long block , which will work swapping my intake manifold . at this time i have also purchased oil uptake/baffel/AOS/fuel pump and injectors/20g turbo better intercooler and still getting a few more things like exhaust and such...but my question issssssss!!!! does the 2020 sti block have the same specs as the type RA block as i have heard since 19 they have used it in the new sti's any insight would be dope pleaseeee and right now im only trying to make a super safe 380/400 on pump. i would need to get 1300cc injectors and such if i wanted to do E85 i bellive and add the flex fuel kit.
Yessir the 2020 block is the same as the type RA short block so you should be pretty solid for power. Sounds like you've got some fun parts about to go on the car 🔥😁
@@Smeedia oh yes man and thank you so much for the input! and ya man i learned alot from your builds and awesome information!! always so educational!! anything else you would suggest on the new build?!
![[LIVE] : ONE ลุมพินี 76 | คู่เอก "ผึ้งหลวง vs สมิงดำ"](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/9SBshmGQOIM/mqdefault.jpg)
My motor blew. What I did is cry
Hopefully it wasn't for too long 😪
Mine too
That is fair ! I'd cry to
Mine blew today. 32K miles. I drove it for 8K, immaculately maintained and driven like a human, not a maniac. Fuck
just blew mine after an oil change lmao@@jonathandyang
Everyone's talking about power goals, and I'm in my 2004 WRX and I'm satisfied with 300-320 hp. I'm not trying to be the fastest on the streets, as is I can keep up with A LOT of things. I just wanna be able to keep doing what I'm doing.
Recently spun a bearing in my stock FRS.. Think I’m gonna go with a IAG stage 1 short block that way when it is time for forced induction down the road, the engine will be stronger. This video helped a lot !!
Gonma prob cost atleast 11k if you have someone do ot for you
@@joegrant2828in what world? My Subaru shop near me charges 2659 for labor to replace a shortblock. Shortblock is about 2000 dollars. Plus at least 1000 in parts and labor for the heads. How are you looking at 11k dollars?
@@joshuathomas4934 i spun rod bearing. Shot metal all through block and turbo. I called tuner shops they wanted 11 grand to replace. Subaru tech ended up charging me 9k with new turbo. Where do you live. And are they giving you rebuilt block. Or brand new
@@joshuathomas4934 curious to hear where you are getting such cheap labor from. Subaru wrx stis arent cheap to maintain and also expensive to add alot of power to. The engine from my year had lots of these problems. Subaru got tired of paying even though there fault.
Your the man! My 2004 sti came back with 40 psi low on a cylinder... this is exactly the information I needed, I am thinking of going with IAG stage 2!
Thank you !!!!
Sorry to hear but the IAG set up should be a great set up!
Yoooo he's back again
Eyyyyyy 🙏🔥
Please don’t talk about this, ur giving me anxiety
Lol this is only in the extreme case, the question is always asked so figured it wouldn't hurt to cover it 😅🙏
don't see it as a bad thing, it's a right of passage!
Honda owner?
This video is great! Im glad I picked up the IAG stage 2.5 tuff block. When I called IAG they were super helpful with finding my the right block and other parts based on the power and what i wanted to use it for.
IAG has incredible customer service 🔥 congrats on the new motor!
So you got it done right away how much was it for all the labor and everything? I want to get it done 2.5 to mine as soon as possible
How has it held up? Do you still have it and what kinda miles?
@j3jymann so far it has held up very well. I've only done about 6k miles but most of that is on the track or autocrossing. It gets all the fluids changed multiple times a season and the motor is holding up very very nicely
love it. thanks for the tips and ideas man. getting a engine soon. cars coming back!!
Yesss!!!! What are you looking into?!
Hit the nail on the head for motors. I love it. IAG is great, but STi Type RA motor sounds even more interesting and cost effective
Much more cost effective and had been pretty proven so far 🔥🙏
@@Smeedia I have always been curious of how much can be pushed. You are awesome thank you
Would the type RA block work with ej255 heads? It would raise the compression.
It would work and compression would be slightly diffrent
Well said. Definitely a terrible feeling the first time the motor goes. I hear it gets easier? Hoping to not find out haha
The legends say that it gets easier but only the chosen few truly know...
On my second spun bearing...
Promise you, it does not get easier. 🙃
Keep the trumpet solute song handy in your car then when it blows, you can solute it while blasting that song on the side of the road till your trailer comes.
Such a perfect timing. I've been thinking about buying an ej207 v7 or rebuild my ej205, maybe boreing out the walls making it a 2.1L with a twinscroll setup. Both are gonna be difficult so I'm stuck
Both are solid options just boils down to budget and what you want 🔥🙏
Nice vid 🤙🏼
I spun a rod bearing in my car. Went with a built block by Crawford. Might never utilize its full potential but it was extremely important to me to have forged pistons.
Totally agree and you can't go wrong with crawford!
About how much did u pay for that with installation?
@@TheJasbmx I just paid the cost of the short block (Crawford S2). I’m rebuilding and installing everything else
Forged internals on stock block?
A really good video. JDM. I keep seeing that term. Stay safe brother.
Just a tip if you blow a Subie motor you can go right to any subie dealership and order another block for around 2k (for BRZ)
Best channel on TH-cam
❤❤❤
blew the engine in my '12 sti hatch today, have had this video saved for a long time lol.
NOOOOOOO 😭😭😭 what's the game plan?
@@Smeedia not sure atm, gotta see how much (if any) of the SB is salvageable. If not then I guess we're going type RA!
I didn't blow my motor but I'm watching this for ideas to project build a built engine as project; slowly 😉
I daily an 03 wrx that still has the original engine, transmission and even the original turbo at 150k miles im really living life on the edge
Nahhh, your solid up to like 500K 😉🔥
@@Smeedia It is completely unmodified besides a cat back exhaust so I'm hoping it'll make it to at least 200k! Like you saw though I'm gunna have new motor and trans on the ready for when it goes lol
Perfect video I just blew my fa20. I’d like to go the RA route. Just trying to find a shop that will build this for me. Some shops in Texas will only put iag in.
Tons of information!
Noted everything down
😁🔥😁🔥😁🔥
My motor blew previous owner beat the hell out of it and traded in and I bought it. Cylinder 4 went thankfully I caught it right when it happened. Went IAG Stage 2 block and couldn’t be happier.
Shooting for more power as well? Sorry to hear, see that happen too often 😭
@@Smeedia Nothing too crazy just want to max the stock turbo out now. I’m trying to skate the line of power and reliability lol.
it’s crazy because i blew my motor not too long ago and i’m getting it rebuilt as we speak
Hopefully rebuild time does not take too long 🙏🔥
Bro, ALWAYS GO DEEP !!!😂😂😂😂
More to come lol wanting to go deeper into each option but would have been wayyy to much info for one video 😅🙏
Ooohhh I've come so far since my last comment on this video.. Today's the day I get my type RA Shortblock!! I already got a new vf48, and I plan on having the heads decked and valves done. I''m hoping that I'll have the closest thing to a new 2012 STI as possible..
Ohhhhh the RA block was a good move 🔥🔥🔥
Just got rod knock on my RA block lol good thing I kept it stock.
I got rod knock my my 2015 STI at 105k lol. The bearing rod knock on the RA is a hit or miss.
Blew my FA20DIT, happens that putting forged internals is cheaper than going the OEM route. So I guess I will have some potential for more ponies down the road :D
Yesss, always an opportunity to look at it as more power 🔥😁
How did you blow it?
@@andrescano1122 too hard driving I guess, maybe a bad tuner too
@@TDLmc Are you building it yourself?
@@CaptainMeliodas No, it actually requires honing since the sleeves got scratched! Putting 86.5 pistons on it
My engine timing chain tensioners broke , Fn up the valves and rocker arms. Swapped it out with a newer engine...of course ...it was a 2.2 Ecotec by GM LoL
Oof, I've only seen a handful of chain engines snap but when they snap..... its usually pretty catastrophic 😖
You don't have to use a JDM ecu with a JDM swap.
You swap a cam pulley and the crank pulley.
That's all you have to do. Easy peasy.
You will need a tune and you CAN use an Access Port. You don't need to go open source.
I saw a WRX going for $11,000 online. Blown motor. Everything else was pristine. Then I saw it had a CVT and I said "GOOD."
CVTs 🙅🙅🙅
OMG, this video is perfect for me since my car just blew up on the DYNO today. I was doing a stage 2 plus tune on my 2016 STI and the motor seized up, so I am assuming it was a rod/bearing. I cried inside when it happened earlier today, so I'm trying to push through it. Maybe an IAG stage 1 or stage 2 short block? Might just machine the heads and get them all cleaned up. Thinking of an FP turbo of some sort? Thanks man--love your vids, Bro!
Sorry to hear 😢 the Type RA block is a good cost effective option but how much power so you want?
@@Smeedia I'd be happy with 400-450 whp. Yeah it was a very sad moment. My Subaru guru buddies recommend maybe a stage 1 IAG block? I'd be happy with that. I would upgrade turbo, oil pump etc.. since I don't know for sure where all the little metal critters from rod bearing migrated too.
Type RA short block is cheaper and have been proving themselves around the 550WHP mark
Go in deeper in to the different motor and what to expect
Coming in some more videos going to break then down 🙏
Interesting, two shops said they refuse to even sell me a type ra cause they keep blowing up including an S209 that’s currently there tf?
So I talked to IAG about the stage 3 FA20 block and trying to hit that 800 rating that they have set for that block, and the whole list of what they gave me was $16k. Seems a bit expensive if you ask me
Mind you that’s the long block with everything else they suggested for it.
Long block and all bolt on parts? Seems relatively accurate for 800 WHP
I ended up spending a lot more than I expected 😂 but Ik it’ll help me on the long run runing a stage 2 iag with support mods
Haha I'm in this boat now. Got 180k out my 09 WRX it before it needed some big love. Now I'm trying to figure my way forward without spending 13k lol.
Yeah, Uncle Rodney came a knocking on cylinder #2 about 2 weeks ago. My poor 2015 STi has a gnarly tick/knock now. Out the door (provided nothing extra is needed) I got quoted at $7.6k for a rebuild with forged internals (Manley). That's everything. Removal, teardown, cleaning, honing, new internals (forged rods, pistons, & king racing bearings), new timing belt & water pump, etc. All in all, I was expecting much worse.
With that said, if you're from WNY (Buffalo specifically), I'd highly recommend Smukall Performance for your WRX or STi. He sold it to me. He installed my new ACT clutch & flywheel for a fair price. He knows his shit when it comes to these cars and I'm VERY neurotic about who I let work on my car as I typically did everything when I still worked in a shop.
Alas, no lift, no way I'm doing this one 🤣. Sure, some jackstands, a cherry picker, and maximum effort would do it, but I'm getting older and don't have that kind of drive anymore. Let alone the time required. That would cut the costs dramatically, BUT... again, time. I'd need at least 3 - 5 days to do this on my own. 1 for teardown. However long the machine shop would need for honing the heads. Then a couple days on the rebuild to be sure I didn't miss anything. Yeah... don't have that kind of time available these days. Being a slave to a 9 - 5 (er' 7 - 3 in my case) 5 days a week doesn't leave much room for such ventures.the
Hey I saw your post. Did you end up doing your rebuild with Smukall Automotive? I want to rebuild my block to beef it up. My car runs well but I want to play it safe.
7.6k seems very good for that amount of work.
@Doug Castle yes. Don Jr. over at Smukall knows what he's doing. As I previously stated, I'm super neurotic when it comes to ANYONE else doing work on my car aside from me. He's down to earth and does good work. Smukall gave me a fair quote out the gate, and I didn't even bother shopping past it as I doubted greatly that anyone locally was going to do better. $7.6k included a used bare block as the walls of cylinder #2 were scored beyond general repair (without sleeving it anyway). Manly Forged Pistons. King Race Bearings. Subaru OE crank & rods. Honed the heads. Valve job. The works, in short.
I'm about 750 miles shy of finishing the break-in, and so far, so good!! Nearing the 3k mark of break-in oil change #2 and the level hasn't dropped. Anyone who knows EJs should find this fact rather interesting. Granted, before the motor was cooked and was eating oil like it was going out of style, but even healthy EJs have been known to chew up around 1 quart per 3k. This gives me high hopes that the rings seated perfectly and this trend theoretically should continue.
One last thing, semi-unrelated, but worthy of sharing. One thing I noticed, even before the motor started to go south, it's not a fan of heat. Days where the ambient temp is above 80, even post rebuild, it runs notably more rough. That WAS the case until about a week ago when I installed the Velossa Tech Big Mouth Ram Air snorkel. This thing is a game changer! I ran the A/C full blast, 90°+ outside, and she was idling smooth as SILK. Look into it if you're not happy with summer EJ rough idles. Worth every freaking penny in my book!
www.velossatechdesign.com/
Just spend $10,000 on an IAG long block. Done! :-)
Sheeeeesh 😳
What about a video explaining hybrid motors
Can definitely make that one 🔥
hey man, what rain gaurds do you have. I also love your channel and now I wanna wrap my subie bc of your vids.!
They're the OEM Subaru rain guards 🙏😁
Yeshkamesh! My name a Borat! What can you do if blow motor?! Very nice!
This explains what I've been seeing Borat pictures lately 👀
Great video btw
Thanks my man 🙏😁
I didn’t blow my motor but I’m waiting on a EJ207 short block and refurbishing my EJ20G heads on it, should handle over 300hp
I just spun a bearing on my 08 sti. Looking at the type ra sb and the only difference is the piston design. Comparing that with the iag stage one, I feel more at ease with the stage one because everything is forged and they use better bearings. I do have full bolt ons with an fp green. Was hoping at making around 450 whp with my current setup. Which would you recommend going?
I'd suggest the type RA, they're reliable blocks for a fantastic price. You can snag RA blocks for under $2,000 if your not looking to make more than 450whp I'd always suggest an RA. My old 05 STI had an RA block making 460WHP and I beat thr hell out of it. Never had an issue and the block still runs fantastic
Why was I looking this up last night and now this comes about! Catastrophic engine failure in my 15’ STI, was trying to find out if it’s cost effective to go OEM (More expensive) or just go IAG 2 Tuff. Tough decisions 🤣
Its a sign! All going to boil down to how much power you want to make, TBH the type RA short block is a pretty good route to go for the $$$
@@Smeedia yea when I was looking last 15+ STI longblocks are in the high 8-9k range, meanwhile a 2 Tuff is 3600. Didn’t think about RA stuff, now just to find out if my heads are good 🤣
Depending on what the failure was they should be, most of the time the heads can be cleaned up at the machine shop 🙏🔥
@@Smeedia Cyl 2 windowed top of the block, can see Cylinder wall ravaged so hoping it didn’t make it up to the head but who knows, we shall see once winter goes away 🤙🏼
Oh God 😳
Is the Type Ra shortblock better than the STI 2004 EJ207 Shortblock?
So I haven’t blown up the ‘18 STI yet, but I’m already going down the rabbit hole of building a motor. I want an overbuilt reliable 600hp on 93. With as FLAT a torque curve as possible. What sort of setup would you recommend? Long block or short block? I was thinking of getting an IAG 900 setup and running only 600hp with it so it’s overbuilt af. Long block, short block, closed deck, open deck? There’s just so many options out there lol. I just want to keep the track handling sort of setup but have 600hp on tap if i want it. But what sort of motor build/turbo setup would your recommend based on the stuff I stated? Stuff will always break, but I want a beefy setup cuz nobody wants to be *that guy*. You know that guy. The one who blows up his subaru 4x and keeps doing things half assed
Biggest issue with Jdm engines are smog related. That’s why I’m patiently saving for a used usdm sti engine for my fozzy. 😕
Very true, for states with strict smog it can also be an issue
IAG blocks are rated by power to the crank. The numbers they provide are not at the wheels power. This is info provided by IAG themselves.
Thats how most engines are rated, but yes good to keep in mind 🙏🙏🙏
I recently bought the stage 2 tuff block, rated at 625 bhp. This will accomplish my goal of 400whp safely. Great videos keep up the good work. I follow you on the fb group as well. Honestly I’ve heard and seen proof of many ppl pushing this block in particular over 500whp. It’s just like any other engine, once you go past a certain point, the longevity of its life is shortened.
Very true, always play it safe by over building 🔥🙏
Jdm Chicago has full v7 sti drivetrains for 6500, thats engine, transmission, ecu, driveshaft, rear diff, cv axles, and hubs
Pretty much drop in ready?
@@Smeedia yes all drop in ready you'd have to call them for availability. Last time I checked I belive they have 4 or 5 of the full drivetrains. I'm saving up for one now to drop into my bugeye
@@Smeedia also the engine's are ej207
I know I won't blow my motor. I have 95k on my stock STI. It has a Koyo Radiator, IAG AOS, GDT Cylinder 4 Cooling, and never used a Cobb OTS tune. Just had her 90-105k service done. Its getting tuned in a couple days for just an intake. I know the cars limits. Not worried about the engine blowing.
Glad to hear! Sounds like you've got the longevity mods down 🔥😁
What year STI comes with the type RA short block? Or does it come with the type RA only?
I only swap 2JZ’s and LS ONLY no matter what platform it is 😆 jk. Thanks for that info.. It never even crossed my mind when JDM swapping. good to know!
Anytime and LS swaps are so 2019 😉
There is a guy with a 2JZ WRX, that thing is sweet!
Where to buy an sti with a blown engine?
Mine blew and the shop I went to swapped a type ra motor
What are the difference between EJ257 and EJ207? The JDM is a smaller engine so does it still have potential for more power than the US one? Is the RA even better than the JDM?
Been looking around for a cost effective option, since my ej255 looks like it might be on its way out (ringlands, probably 😑). Never considered an oem SB before, but I like the price. Would the Type RA SB be compatible with the D25 WRX heads? Really looking for a reliable-ish 350-400 wheel daily driver (after other mods, obviously).
Not sure if the D25s are direct swap i know the W25s are. Someone has to have done it before. 🙏 the RA block would be a good option 🔥🙏
@@Smeedia Cool, I'm gonna look more into it. Thanks for the info, as always, and I appreciate that you actually read and reply to comments. Shows you care 🤙
I try 🙏😁
pull engine and trans, clean engine bay, plan LS swap, have multiple existential crises while taking years to save up the money
Lol this! ^
Luckily they put the ra block in the 19+ sti as well, I am hoping they prove to be able to make 500 up reliably..... but for mine I am thinking 400 whp just to keep it hopefully more to the safe side
400 would be a safe side for it and oodles of fun too 🔥
Can you do an update on this with non Wrx Sti motors?
I have a 2013 brz is it worth to ej25 swap it. I’m tired of getting gapped lol
Tbh no 😅 I'd snag a second hand S/C or Turbo set up
my motor blew at 115 thousand :( now saving for a crawford short block not trying to get crazy power so 400 hp sounds good
Crawford short blocks are solid units! Sorry to hear about the engine failure 😭
@@Smeedia it happens man she held till she couldnt anymore cant wait for the build journey thanks for the reply!
I concur, I got married to get more headwork and it's just a non stop expense
Thanks for the information on the various engine options. With cars nowadays have so many sensors and computers, if i go with an aftermarket block, does it mean i have to replace all the existing wiring and ecu so that I don’t get some gremlin electrical and fault codes?
No sir, you can use the factory sensors and harnesses 😁
hey smeedia from your experience what shortblick do you recommend? my ej255 spun a bearing and trying to get it back and going
Is this including the short block rebuild or just a short block swap
Mine made it to 107k 😭 just got it bac after a couple months!
So just buy an already assembled shortblock and put the top end on it?
so will the 2018 sti RA short block swap into my 2013 wrx 2.5T without any modifications?
Well I guess now since I’m installing a new built block I guess I should probably upgrade my turbo too. Damn I need more fueling now to max this turbo out. $18,000 dollars and 1 year later... Damn I should of bought an engine that could handle 1000whp because 600whp isn’t enough anymore. It just never ends.
Its always an endless rabbit hole 😅🙏
@@Smeedia I’m starting to learn to just be happy with what I have. Many people just wish.
I just want a daily, don't give a fuck about "power" just want a stock daily driver.
I blew my motor. Type ra block inbound
My Subaru has a rod knock so I bought a new type RA block do I need to take the heads to get resurfaced ? Even tho the car didn’t heat up? Because you take the heads when your car get over heat on my case it didn’t I moneyshift I need help lmao
Watched this video, then proceeded to blow my motor lol. I guess the Subaru God’s wanted a sacrifice.
Nooooo 😭😭😭
How much would charge me to rebuild my block for me it has rod knock I got they car 2 weeks go from dealership and I only drove it 354 miles and got rod knock:/
Is it ok to reuse a brand new MLS gasket that has been torqued down but not heat cycled? I want to pull the head back off to fix an exhaust stud...
Personally I wluldent re use them
@@Smeedia thanks
What sort of engine would you recommend for 270 - 300 awkw?
Do you loose alot if bottom end Torque with an EJ207 compared to a EJ255 or EJ257?
really appreciate your help 🙏
Tbh I don't like 207s all that much but it's a good oem option.
Personally the 257 RA blocks are the best bang for the buck IMO
@@Smeedia Do you have to replace the pistons on the 257 RA motors if I'm aiming for the 300 awkw mark?
Can I have standard size forged pistons installed without having to home the new block, or is honing unavoidable?
Thankyou so much for your input
Means alot
100% stock RA block will handle that just fine. No need to swap pistons 🙏
Idk if you have any plans on uploading about this but how’s the Neon SRT4? Anything interesting happening with that process? I haven’t heard about it in a while
Nothing yet, we need to put it on stands and pull all suspension and brakes off the car. Been bugging Matt to get it going 😅🙏
I Just spun a bearing at 40K with 300HP... Big sad. Oil temps starting to increase by a ton. Looked like I was panning for gold in my oil pan. Stage 1 IAG going in Aug 10.
Offfff 😖😖😖 at least you'll have a better block in there 🔥
@@Smeedia Yup, bad fincail decisions here I come.
Been a long time watcher and never thought I would have to re visit this video my 16 wrx is knocking and its confirmed rod knock. Not sure what my next steps will be, f Ill go built or not. From your experience what would you suggest? It was just a fun daily I have 5k saved up for emergency car stuff so Im willing to spend all that plus some to get it done right. My goal before engine blew was to do flex fuel kit next and that's it but now I might have to go full beans lol. I just need pointed in a direction this is a new area for me I haven't done research on engine components before.
mods
egr and tgv deletes
catted downpipe
bypass valve
cold air intake
ecbs
Do you have an end goal for power or do you just want it back on the road?
@@Smeedia i want to make low 400s
Just reliable fun in the low 400s is what i want to do some guys in my car club recommend Sri swapping it for cheaper but I’ve gotten a lot of recommendations and you seem to put reliability high up on your list then most which is one of the reasons i like watching your videos so much.
If just low 400s, built internals rods and pistons, a little head work and the motor should hold just fine. Swapping an EJ into an FA car is doable but not worth the work IMO
@@Smeedia Thank you for responding to me so quick I haven't even got response from the shops yet. Thank you Tanner Hope you had a Merry Christmas!
I recently got a 2009 Impreza wrx with a 2019 STI short block since last owner I guess blew it off or whatever, This thing is way to fucking fast and is still on stock!!! Last owner also recommend me to get a tunner in case I decided to add more to the car is clean tittle got it for 9.5k with 82k miles. I think is a great deal.
Solid deal, especially with having a new block in it! 😁🔥
@@Smeedia What ACCESSPORT would you recommend me, only going to add a cold air intake and change the exhaust. Performance brakes are on the way.
They make one for your model year, or are you referring to the tune?
@@Smeedia both.
What intake/exhaust do you plan on running?
What is the best option to dumb it down, if I just want to get my car running, no modifications and stock power?
Just an OE shortblock replacement, redeck the heads and send it
Ive lost one and bought an IAG.
Lost one?!
Maybe a silly question, but is the original engine number registered somewhere with a STI? I always hear those Muscle car guys talk about a numbers matching car. Curious if that’s something that could help a STI holding its value.
Not so much with these cars, they made so many VA chassis subarus that I don't foresee them increasing in value with the exception of the S209 or the type RA
Hi Tanna. This thing is going to be a total beast. Did you update your life insurance just as a precaution lol. Waiting for this motor got me feeling like I'm 10 and wanting for santa to 🎅🎅🎅. Need some wheel & tyres advice for my 09wrx. I really like the look of the R888 tyres?? 🤘🤘🤘🤘
Lol sammmmme, been waiting for it to come back! And the R888 are great tires, keep in mind there are not too many evacuation channels for water on them so on wet days they might be pretty slick when driving 🙏
@@Smeedia so definitely new for the summer tyres. 🌞. Are you going to be swapping the exhaust system for the new motor??. Forgot to say I finally got a guy to custom build the pipes for my rear box and it sounds like a RB22 sti. Had a long wait finding the right person to do the work, but well worth it. I'll get some pictures and IG you 👌🤘
Glad you got it sorted out! I'll be using the ETS exhaust from my old set up and having the fabricator make a downpipe to mate up to it 😁🔥
@@Smeedia it's going to sound Sweeeeet lol. Take care Bro 🤘🤘🤘
What WHP levels should I be making on a 2.5 IAG closed deck, FP Black, 2200 CCs injectors, Flex fuel, 545 hellcat fuel pump, ETS 4 inch front mount, ELH, S2 cams, and other supporting mods ??
Guess around 550 depending on the tuner
@@Smeedia ok cool that’s where I’m at. I wanted to see if my tuner was actually good.
i have an 05 sti spun a bearing...2 questions...Is it possible to make it more reliable than stock? #2 can u make it more reliable than stock while having more power than stock? (nothing crazy 300-350 maybe even 400-450 wheel)
Yessir! Build the motor and it should be more reliable and hold more power
Honestly I don’t know if my engine (ej255) is fucked. I have a tick coming from my engine, and don’t want to take it to the dealership. sounds internally, happens more when I rev it but also happens at idle. Sounds like some metal to metal and like something is loose. I have a Cobb AP and my dam and knock learns are good. Tried checking for exhaust leaks but can’t find any. The sound comes from the left and right side of the block. Any suggestions?
Could be injector tick, the injectors can get pretty noisy at times 🙏
I just wanna make my car run and be happy again
Get it happy again ❤
I just spun a bearing last week on my STi hatch.. but Im just trying to keep mine reliable and maybe just throw couple bolts ons and that’s it ... should I do forged internals or do everything oem ?
Snag. Type RA block, pretty beefy for an OEN short block. Flat iron tuning sells them for around $1800 or so and people have made 600+ with them. Perfect for a mild bolt on platform 🙏
Recently spun a rod bearing on my stock block 09 STi, I purchased a Type RA short block, will the stock heads work? and is there anything i should be looking for when swapping in the new short block?
Your stock heads will work just fine, make sure to clean or replace the avcs cam gears and ocvs 🙏
Dude rockin a 2014 STI hatch, it’s the main family mobile, would a aftermarket intercooler or radiator be better for longevity? Stock rad seems to be holding up cooling for as well
As intercooler keeping stock power for dd. Btw moving back to WA soon what’s the shop you work at, might need some work
It's called The Mod Garage 🙏 and no need for a larger rad under daily driving conditions. If you decide to push more power then I'd suggest snagging one. But the stock top mount is pretty good
@@Smeedia Word just more weight/ inefficient cooling? Lol to be honest just looking to turn wrenches for fun. Idk how you find time to reply to these haha
Always try to make tike to respond 🙌🙏
Any idea what you are looking at swapping something bigger into an 2015 impreza and replacing the fb20? Simple block swap or entire ecu?
Best swap for that car would be an FA20DIT, have never seen it done but it's possible
@@Smeedia any specific reason? Car is also cvt. I would like to use the wrx cvt if possible! Yhanks for your help! Loving that eg33!!
You can use the CVT 🙏😁
Do you know if you can swap a complete fa20dit engine from a 2014-2018 forester XT into a 2015+ WRX?
I belive they have some minor differences I'd have to dig into some tech documents to find out on that one
So idk anything about cars rly. Small stuff. So a long block is the short block plus heads. Is that what you are saying? Just clarifying.
Correct 🙏
Me and my brother built a bugeye pushing 20 psi like instantly lol motor blew a year after we tuned it instead of putting a new motor in we crushed the car regret it all the time
💔😭
Buy another motor and build it. Then when/if your motor blows. You already have a built engine to put in. Then rebuild the broken motor.
okay man so i have been watching your videos always ... right now i am rebuiding my 2008 sti hatch. bearing went. so i went ahead and bought a 2020 long block , which will work swapping my intake manifold . at this time i have also purchased oil uptake/baffel/AOS/fuel pump and injectors/20g turbo better intercooler and still getting a few more things like exhaust and such...but my question issssssss!!!! does the 2020 sti block have the same specs as the type RA block as i have heard since 19 they have used it in the new sti's any insight would be dope pleaseeee and right now im only trying to make a super safe 380/400 on pump. i would need to get 1300cc injectors and such if i wanted to do E85 i bellive and add the flex fuel kit.
Yessir the 2020 block is the same as the type RA short block so you should be pretty solid for power. Sounds like you've got some fun parts about to go on the car 🔥😁
@@Smeedia oh yes man and thank you so much for the input! and ya man i learned alot from your builds and awesome information!! always so educational!! anything else you would suggest on the new build?!
Seems like you've got it covered for the most part 🔥😁
I just finished ordering a JDM FA20DIT. Spun a bearing...FML
You might be able to used a USDM ECU with a FA20, not sure on the compatibility between that set
How do you know if you have a type RA short block?
Casting number on the engine would be 706 or late model 705s.
2019+ STI comes with the RA block as well