Ive 130000 miles on my 97 Sti Coupe. Bought it with 40000. Never rebuilt. 4 things I done over the years, warm up 3mins, cool down 3-5 minutes sometimes more. Oil changes 5000 miles. Never absolutely dog it in 1st gear. Its been one of the most reliable cars I've owned in over 20 years driving.
I think one of the things most people overlook when modifying a car is the fact that the more mods you have the shorter it’s engine/trans life will be.
It is not as simple as that . Many mods made correctly actually make your car more reliable and they allow you to run more boost and more ignition timing without making the car less reliable than its original form . Moreover , some original parts are so reliable that they can take more power and torque without reducing their lifespan . It starts getting less reliable than stock only for really highly tuned cars...or those tuned badly which makes more than 90% of all problems encountered
@@nikolaosskordas9159 I agree. Either cheap parts or not properly built. I've modded ever car I owned, and none have blown. I've always passed the cars along and seen them on the road years later.
Most mods I do are reliability mods to go along with a better tune and bolt ons. You can get plenty of power out of these cars with that. Just a tune livens these up like crazy
With the mods I've pushed the stock block to at this point, I expect to get at least a little fun out of it in the 'safe' 450hp tune. But I also got into modding because I flat out KNOW this isn't going to last, and planned what I built into the next stage for the future block build. Just, if you have this kind of car and you want to build for power, always plan/build for at least a tier over what you want, and if you can, go more.
Got 70k on my built motor...forged pistons, eagle rods, acl bearings...Regular maintenance is key as well as common sense. Sadly common sense isnt so common anymore.
I just paid for a full motor maintenance job. Killer B oil pickup & baffle, cyl 4 mod, timing belt, spark plugs, oil. And I have an AOS. It was pricey but the peice of mind is worth it.
This is why i always say Subarus are good cars and reliable. Most of the time one of these cars blow is usually because of the person behind the wheel not the car. My 2012 WRX is at 145km so close to 100miles and is on the stock trans stock motor stock turbo and havent had a major issue with the car. This was an amazing video!
Mines a little 4 banger outback I daily drive it on top of taking it through every mud hole I see she still rolling fine you just can't be listening to your friends when they are telling you to whip it whip it.
If you're wanting a stock block pushed to 'safe' limits, that's about what I just built. :) Just finishing up my last parts with my tuner, and looks like I'll be hitting about the numbers I was shooting for. I built for track & street (non-daily), and have pretty much every single longevity/positive mod you can add at this point (very similar to yours), along with going ETS rotated & ELH. I'm sitting at 390hp/350lb on o93 10%, @19psi after the first tune session. Obviously we could go more, but it's a good 'safe' area to be in. For E85, my local station actually tests at 90%. During the tune, I ran into the fuel pump needing more power, so installing the IWire Kit/Studs as we speak to get finished next week. We're shooting for 450hp/380lb @ 19psi, though I might push it to 20 and see how it goes. Otherwise, after the tune, I cannot believe how smooth, and QUIET it is. The only time you know it's a beast is under mid/heavy throttle. Otherwise regular driving, you would barely notice it was heavily modified. It's a whole different car now, and it feels verrry nice! I highly recommend doing it. Just as he says, don't cheap out. Get the good stuff, as you'll pay more in money and time later on.
@@Smeedia Oh it's awesome! The S207 NBR build is now just about ready to show, but of course now it's coming into late Fall/Winter so nowhere to show it here in WI! A whole lot of learning going on, but have to say you've been quite the inspiration of getting over my fear building all this over the past couple years. I'm coming from building older Dodge Turbo 2.2's back in the late 90's/2000's. After blowing up a Lancer Shelby back when, was very much nervous about getting back into the car scene.. But it's just part of the DNA, and got my dream car finally to build. So this time, am making sure to do things right and learn as much as I can. Is also why it's super important to do all my own work, as you can take a ton of pride home knowing when finally done and successful, that warm glow of success.. Even though you have to go through so much pain to get there! But, the reactions of people who see it and know, I never expected just driving around.. I really need to get this out more, because it seems folks like it. :D
Hey 👋 hope you are doing okay! I have been following you for quite sometime and have learned a lot about Subarus. I wanted to ask you a question and hoping get sone help. I own a 2015 Subaru Impreza Wrx and wanted to replace the Purge solenoid valve but can’t where is located. Can you please tell me where is the Purge solenoid valve location on the 2015 Subaru Impreza Wrx?. Thanks Bro appreciate you a lot.
Keeping to the maintenance schedule and driving it properly account for 80% I think. Ringland failure and rod bearing failure (apart from 2012-2016 defective blocks after the tsunami's) are usually 100% attributed to the driver. Lugging the engine in too high of a gear cruising, or getting into boost at too low of RPMs in too high of a gear is literally asking for your rings to crumble but it's how every drives (you trying to save MPG in a turbo subaru!?). Modding is it's own can of worms, and can exacerbate issues by problematic drivers.
Correct. Blown EJ motors are typically 99% the fault of the owner. The 1% include cracked oil pickups, backed out oil pump seal plate and defects. I don’t understand how people blow these motors so much. Mine gets thrashed on backroads and driven daily. It an oil filter change ever 2500-3000 miles and all the maintenance is always up to date. I have an intake, turbo inlet, throttle body hose, and the rest is bone stock. I have a custom tune on the car tune for 91 octane and I run 93. I use 5w 40 rotella and my car has been the most reliable car Iv ever seen. It’s a tank. Never ever ever ever ever have issues with my car aside from a rat eating the wires to my coolant temp sensor. I love my wrx. It’s AMAZING.
@@joshuathomas4934 Seconded my man. I'm intake/inlet/ebcs/downpipe, was driving it over 25k miles a year for the first 3.5 years I owned it, down terrible roads and conditions doing client home visits. Nothing has broken that wasn't directly my fault. At 150k now. 2011.
I’m looking at getting a WRX soon, however I always run low RPM (currently have a N/A Impreza). How many rpm is recommended for cruising? And what is the correct shifting rpm for the turbo engines?
So totally true I had my STi tune modified to run wastegate pressure until coolant went above 80 Deg C. Made my EJ207 happier, and helped not fill up the catch can.
Good video. I bought an 04 FXT with stage 2 OTS map. It has cobb intake and perrin catless DP. The previous owner was very moderate on the throttle all the time. It has lasted 180k miles. I got a protune for it which was his next step before I got ahold of it. It's also on the stock transmission. We both have done meticulous maintenance on the thing and it's been a reliable daily. Goes to show you can keep these engines alive if you take CARE of them
air intakes are hit or miss for Ej motors in general due to sensitive changes of AFR and leaner combustion. even if tuned they are still sensitive to the engine.
My first and current car is a 2006 Subaru WRX. Original engine and transmission. Only mods I put on it is an Injen cold air intake and a Greddy TI-C catback exhaust. It’s at 160000 miles and it’s still going strong. Changed the clutch and flywheel 3 times in its lifespan. Changed the timing belt with a performance belt for more lasting durability and replace the starter, ps pump and alternator once as well as spark plugs. It’s just common sense to maintain your car and know it’s limits instead of complaining that a head gasket was blown due to bad engineering rather than faulting the owner for being negligent.
I like your comment about the reality of the the block. It’s not forged, it’s a flat 4 and it has a shitty tune from factory. The fact that you can make 400ish to the crank reliably is actually impressive lol
We veterans in the Subaru game know what's going on out there, and this isn't new at all. This has been a thing since the debut of the WRX. People aren't doing their maintenance, driving forever on OTS tunes, not tuning for mods, blah, blah, blah. The fault lies solely with the owners. I am at 386k+ miles with my 2002 WRX because I know exactly what I am doing. Take care of them, and they will take care of you!!
No matter how many times I've seen it and heard it...lots of folks RARELY ever follow the parts list for the OTS tunes. And I'm so glad you friggin touched on buying quality parts. So many subarus around my area with improper OTS tunes and crappy parts put on them! BUT THE BEST THING IVE HEARD IN THIS, that I even stress to everyone I talk to - Know what parts are going on and learn about how they're effecting your engine. Plan out what you're gonna do to the engine, research and research again about the parts and how they contribute, then shoot for it. This ain't no simple AutoZone special type of car and deserves to be treated with quality parts. Give these babies some damn Gucci and LV type of love 😂
1. Keep it stock 2. Do the proper maintenance 3. Keep it stock 4. Change the oil every 6,000 miles 5. Keep it stock 6. Check the oil every 1,000 miles, top off as needed 7. Keep it stock 8. KEEP IT STOCK Thank you for coming to my Ted Stock
I came from the Porsche world where they recommend oil changes every 10k miles or yearly and I can confirm that it is not the same with EJ engines. Just because both are boxer engines does not mean they are the same. It’s not that expensive or difficult to change oil (and filter!) every 3000 miles
I got at 2019 wrx CVT, I got it brand new, I put about 42k miles on it before I got it protuned, before I got it tuned I got an ETS intake installed, ran it with OTS and my Anxy port kept going at it, installed a catted invidia downpipe and IAG AOS, the car is now at 87k(I use it for work, drive around sf) i warm it up everytime it’s cold start loud, when i push it I don’t smell any burnt oil, I’m waiting for 100k+ mods or just swapping to to STI transmission when the time comes! So far the car has beeen going at it happily
A great video for all of us out there modifying and working on the subies. You and others are a great reference brother. Thanks for doing this video. I'm going to be out of town for subifest this year. Next year I will be there. Oh yeahhhh. Subies forever guys and gals.
I got a stock 2017 wrx. I let my car warm up AT LEAST to 150 degrees (oil temp in the mini display in the dash above the radio) With the way I drive, even if I am on the high way for a long time going 75 or something, I have never gotten temps higher than 208 (and that's after going full boost to pass some one) When I slow her down to 75 and stay there, the car temps drop to 204-207. Then every once in a while, I'll get off and get gas and let my car cool down a bit, and she gets to 194-197 (depending on if it's a hot summer day or cold winter) I've had litterally no issues with that. Also checking the oil every once in a while and making sure everything is good. I know right now I gotta handle my oil drain seal (starting to do leaks but very minor). 90k miles and no rod knock. Fantastic car that will work great if I keep up with everything.
Can u make a separate video like this, but geared more towards a daily driver non-performance stock Subaru for your avg Joe? More specifically for 2.5 Liter engine that has little to no mods. I.e. Forester, legacy, Outback, etc., nor is a “sports” trim. Just discovering your channel and I’m pretty impressed. U explain things relatively rookie friendly. Keep up the good work👍
So true about using quality parts. I'm orig owner of an 05 sti. At about 115k got a code that front o2 sensor was bad. Bought a Denso o2 sensor off Amazon. Worked fine for a few thousand miles then started to get a funky idle and acceleration hesitations. Tuner and 2 diff mechanics could not figure out what the issue was (kept blaming the injectors which were fine). Long story short, engine failed had a new IAG stage 2 tuff SB installed at about 118K and still had the idle/hesitation issues. Finally went to a new tuner who was quite savy and thought that my O2 sensor was likely counterfeit or bad. Put in an oem o2 sensor and car idled and ran perfectly. Counterfeit o2 sensor from Amazon likely caused my orig engine to fail. Lesson learned, only buy oem or quality aftermarket parts. Amazon is no place to buy car part for our subies.
Great vid. Hoping more people will finally "get it" Subies get a bad rep. for being "ticking time bombs" but 98% of the time, they blow because of either abuse/poor maintenance, or idiots slapping on a bunch of bolt on parts modding the crap out of it without building up a proper foundation first ! I am surpised you didn't touch on the one thing, and probably why you are seeing a lot more "my subie blew up" posts. The weather is getting cooler, which makes it easier to go do burnouts/drifting in the parking lots. #1 way to blow your subie up real fast!
Got knock? Add methanl/water injection 👍 I've been running the Snow Performance stage 2 setup for ~40k miles on my FA WRX. 112k on the odometer and I've been auto-crossing it since March 2020.
I am the fail safe lol. Just have to make sure the LED lights up and always monitor the AP for any funny business. The only issues I've had are with the quick connect fittings going to the tank/pump coming off after being hit by the sub woofer (It's been addressed now lol) and draining all the fuel into the spare tire compartment. "What is that smell? Why is the car running shitty? Oh..."
I just bought a ‘13 WRX hatch, and it’s bone stock and I love it. I’ve been working on cars (repairs, not mods or tuning) for about five years. I was driving a ‘93 Camry and it had all kinds of cheap parts, no problem. But now looking at actual good quality parts for Subies, holy shit 😂 I see why people say they’re money pits. Buuuuut, I also know, good parts and regular maintenance means a longer engine life. So I’m hyped to see what I can do with this thing. Awesome video man, you made a ton of great points!
I have an AEM oil pressure sensor and I use that to gauge (excuse the pun) when the car is warm enough. Typically oil pressure is around 97 PSI at first startup and I wait till it drops to 90 before driving, which also is almost exactly the same amount of time it takes for the coolant gauge to rise up a couple notches from zero. Probably 4 minutes or so. I figure that the oil is warmer than it was at cold start and the coolant is also beginning to circulate meaning the thermostat has opened, so it’s safe to drive. I do this every. single. time. I drive the car.
man im so anxiety ridden for my poor ol EJ that i bought from some shady dealer on accident (learned they were shady after i bought the car, looking at you boss motors) and its got 180k on it currently, i literally give it atleast 10 minutes before i even think about driving it LOL
My 2009 Forester X (non-turbo) is still stock and still going strong at 195,000 miles damn near 200k. Thought bout slapping a turbo on it, but putting turbos on n/a Subaru can really mess everything up. So I just got exterior mods on it and not touching the engine compartment, just leaving it stock
Def agree!! Also proper crankcase ventilation. Too much crankcase pressure will blow out seals or worse. If your adding a 100hp+ to your motor enlarging the hose size or introducing a catch can will help dramatically. Water meth ppl like to say its not for daily i call bs! Ive been running snow performance kit with a 40% methanol 60% water mix. Drastically reduces iat probably as much or more then an upgraded intercooler. Its only used in high boost situations so 1 gallon will usually last 30 to 40 gallons of gas. And will also cut down on carbom buildup significantly. Its like steam cleaning your valves. Even more helpful on direct injection. My tuner has my cel set to flash when knock is detected so i know to let off. I monitor oil temp with a 1/8 npt hollow drain plug. Super easy no drilling and tapping. Funny you said that, my coolant temp will reach half long before the oil temp moves. I usually wait til ay least 100°f before driving and 150°f before getting into boost. A wideband is super helpful at making sure your afr are stable. Pretty much a necessity. Aem x series with bosch 4.9 have the fastest response time and are extremely reliable. Boost gauge also helpful especially if tuned with boostcut eliminated. Replacing any old rubber vac lines with silicone can save you from air leaks and lean conditions. In volvo world we call this stage 0. Plugs ( 1 step colder if plan on adding power and properly gapped will save blowout .020-.024 depending on engine) coils or wires cap rotor, replacing any aged stiff rubber hoses, refreshing pcv system, changing fluids (believe it or not brake fluid goes bad), coolant flush, back flushing heater core, checking any mounts and steering components, intake throttle amd exhaust gaskets. As far as fuel i always always run 93 and often add vp racing octanium (adds 7 octane) believe me it works. Ive ran as much ignition timing on wmi and 93+vp as ppl on e85 with zero knock even on hot days with multiple runs and on stock intercooler. And almosy as important as letting your car warm is letting it cool. Dont run it hard down the highway get off the exit to your house and shut it right off. My buddy blew the turbo om his legacy gt got it glowing and shut it down right after. Youll coke the bearings, it literally bakes the oil into char. Turbos and downpipes can get as hot at 1900°f so you can imagine what that does to oil that stops flowing. Think of it like that stream that doesnt freeze in the winter while all those still ponds have 2 ft of ice. You can get a turbo timer that runs off oil temp but i jist use the old saab suggested method they used to stamp on the sun visor. "Let car run 90 seconds at idle before shutting down". Im sure i missed some other good points and apologize i in no way am meaning to hijack your video. Just thought id offer my 8 cents (was quite a bit more then .02)
You wanna talk about heat soak, try Rallycross and grid, good lord iat's go through the roof. And not much you can do. Love the video man! Hit multiple nails on the head!
How do you monitor IATs? I have a JDM WRX bugeye running 307bhp and 352nm/TQ so pretty good for a td04 with turboback and upgraded fuel pump. I was going to upgrade to an STI tmic but got told it wasn't worth it since I don't race it's a daily driver. How do I monitor IATs and is the WRX top mount fine for this use?
@@liammcknight3845 I used a laser thermometer when I pop my hood at grid. I've got an Sti intercooler that I'm going to install a thermocouple into and I've also got the sprayer kit as well. And I'll monitor iat's with the thermocouple though when I get there
Hey Subie nation! I have a 99 JDM Subie Legacy gt twin turbo vdc wagon. I'm lovin it. 180xxx km previous owner took very good care of it. I am a first time Subaru owner.
It’s been a bit of a shock for my brother going from a 4Runner to a WRX😂…let’s just say he’s not used to “maintaining” a vehicle. Video was super helpful for things to look for and understand with the subarus👍🏻
If I end up getting the wrx I'm looking at it will probably be my less reliable vehicle even though my 4runner is close to 300k, tho the odometer has been broken way before I owned it so who knows it could be past that by now
I was offered a 02 wrx for my 04 v6 4Runner with 270k miles and even tho the Subaru has way less miles it’s still scary to think about trading a Toyota for a Subaru 😂
In the grand scheme of things I know nothing about Subarus. With that said I’m in my first sti attempting to build the ultimate daily… without ruining it. I have cheaped out on… nothing. Iv done a lot although not much past intake and catback in terms of air fuel. I’m currently running 93 stage 1+ OTS tune. Running the redline intake. Did every 30k maintenance item. My engine runs smooth, happy and knock has never reached past 2.4. Besides bad gas. Follow his rules follow the Bible of reliability items and consider 0w-40 instead of 5w-30. Mine is daily beaten and has a obsessive mechanic. I’m pretty proud and not worried so far.
I can't get over the importance of this video. I have a tuned classic saab900 that was a field find, the first year of the project was just getting to "stage 0" and starting with a solid and healthy foundation. Drive the car as it is and get a feel for it and how it is going to respond to modifications and create a plan for tuning. Putting parts that work together to achieve an end goal is essential
I got my wrx last week with 56k and the first thing I did was have the 60k service done. And multi point done so I new were to start working on it now I know we're to start diving in. In my case the shocks were leaking so I'll be doing a coil swap this week love your videos
Lmao, you have me laughing with the skyrocket piston, I just imagine that happening. I got a 2011 WRX stock in August 2020, been watching you and learned a lot. Already got AOS, 4th cylinder cooling mod, Cobb SF intake, Kartboy short-throw shifter, bushing, and the AP.
Got my 04 wrx with almost 185k. Stock motor, catless uppipe and TBE, turbo inlet, EBCS, walbro 255, stage 2 OTS map, I drive like a normal person. Change the oil every 5k. Don't let my car warm up, I let it run for a minute then drive off without going over 2.5-3k til it's up to temp. Done a ton of preventative stuff (killer-b oil pickup / baffle, DOM cooling mod, changed all the hoses under the hood, new MAF, new coil packs) and address problems as they pop up. I'm surprised it's lasted me this long, at this point, I think my car will last past 200k
This is couldn’t have come at a better time, especially since I’m getting my first STI in the next few a days to week😍 I’m lucky enough to have the short block recall done on the STI I’m buying. I am however looking into buying a closed deck short block or Type RA short block. I am talking to a well known performance shop that is in NY 4 hours away from me.
@@Smeedia idk yet, I’m going to modify the car as it sits right now to make about 360whp, he has a list for me for that build, then the built motor I’m thinking of going rotated turbo kit, to handle at least 700, I’ll probably be doing the build myself but buy the short block, I’m a mechanic but with this build I don’t wanna mess something up. That’s only one build I’ll be doing though.👀🔥 I will probably start a channel for both subies I have and see if I can get a fan base going.
All this is so helpful. Coming from the Honda world this all new to me. I have '06 Fozzy 2.5 XT and it is my baby so now I can take care of it the way it should be.
I currently have a ‘19 STI. STI short shift. Got it at 5k miles. Now it’s got 23k miles. It’s my legitimate daily driver. Love it!!!! Glad to hear it’s the S209 setup😅. And that 3rd gear has been “beefed up?” The only mod it has is a COBB AOS. Didn’t know what the heck it was at first until I did some “Google Fu”. Glad the last owner invested in that. My mechanic that I’ve been going to for years said it was a solid install. I do Full Synth 5W30 oil changes exactly at 5k intervals but always keep a reserve quart. I rotate the tires every other oil change. Pain in the ass with that plastic panel I have to remove every time because I jack up and crawl under the car to change oil. Learned as a driver by trade that older engines and anything turbo will consume oil despite being in tip-top condition. Lots of highway commuting is why I have a longer oil change interval and per Subaru, which I kinda am skeptical deep inside. I’ll change intervals to 3k/3months. These STIs are an investment. You don’t hear this that much about cars unless it’s Porsche, Supra etc. I’ve been, recently, offered more than I paid for it! It’ll hold its value for the most part even after this used car bubble bursts. Every car I’ve ever had is always considered a POS from a POS manufacturer. I’ve always maintained my vehicles. And if any upgrades were done. I bit the bullet and got quality parts. I’m just an enthusiast and can turn a wrench but if I am unsure I will go to an established pro and have what I need done. I remember my 05 WRX Wagon, my first AWD turbo…autobox, always downshifted that thing to stay outta OD😒. I used royal purple in that one regularly. I was only in my 20s 😬. Never had issues with my Subies. Just did routine maintenance. Never modded them extensively for that matter. I hated that I couldn’t use my STI during last winter because I knew that it was sitting on 19” summer tires and couldn’t invest in all seasons or a separate 18” snow-tire/wheel yet. I have a Wrangler as a backup 🤣. Would a COBB AccessPort be beneficial without having modded anything???? Or a professional tune?? Just wanna help the STI be more efficient, smooth and prolong its life… And make more HP on the side 😈 I plan on keeping this STI. Or until Subaru convinces me to buy whatever STI reboot (8 Speed DSG-ish) 400hp Wagon they come up with in the future 🤣 🤣.
I chose to remain stock. Watching this, I’m greatly satisfied in my decision becase this is too much work for me, man. Mods are cool if you’re ready to put the time & Mooney in it - I still believe in buying the stock speed i desire & keep it stock. I’ll stick to being slow in my fully OEM Fozzy & living vicariously through others’ mods 😅.
I think Knock needs to be discussed more. I remember when I purchased my first Subaru and AP, I would see -2 knock on the freeway and I would get anxiety lol! I spoke with my tuner and he said it was “phantom knock” and he clarified it what was going on. I had never heard of it in the past.
thatd be correct from what ive heard online and between my tuner and a few other tuners, there is alot of phantom knock with the EJ's, the knock sensor is just so anxiety ridden and i hate it, but its also super helpful
I jus got a 2002 subaru 2.5rs a couple months ago and ive been doing lil things to get it running better it just has alot of old parts, this video helped out alot thank u 🙏🏽 motivated more to get this restored
Based on my experience, my Subaru Impreza WRX 2002 Bugeye is perhaps one of the rarest models in the Alps. In my community and among other Subaru enthusiasts here, we've collectively driven around 300,000 kilometers with boxer engines. The key to their longevity is diligent maintenance. It's important to note that Subaru recommends oil servicing for EJ20 engines and the EJ25/EJ20X/EJ20Y variants every 9,000-10,000 kilometers. In contrast, my Audi A4 TDI, for instance, requires an oil change every 30,000 kilometers. Boxer engines demand meticulous maintenance to avoid damage, and using high-quality oil is crucial. Personally, I've only used Motul 6100 or ARAL BlueTronic oil. When it comes to modifications, I prefer to keep my car stock. However, if you're looking for a bit more power, I would consider ECU mapping. The Bugeye models tend to run a bit rich, so optimizing the fuel-air mixture can extract additional power without compromising longevity. I would advise against tuning the car or adding aftermarket air intakes if you intend to keep it running smoothly for the long haul. All in all, the boxer were designed to run at least 275.000 Kilometers and the failing rate is under 20%, for the ones tested in the laboratory, a little bit higher failing rate as my 3.0 TDI, but V6 diesel clearly live longer than petrol boxer engines. Still a boxer can be reliable, and you really have to fuck up the head gasket with a shity tune in my eyes.
When I built my wagon I made sure I spent on top parts I was told by a tuner years ago spend the big money once is better than spending it twice on cheap parts which will cost more in the long run
Didn't realize it at the time, but pretty sure I took a couple pictures of your car, last Saturday. Saw it parked on my way out from snagging some smoothies, and had to share with a friend. Small world!
Great vid as usual bro🤙🏽 Ima change my oil return line on my ej this weekend lol. Just take off dp and I'll be good right, or should I loosen the upPipe a bit 🥴
05 Wrx pro tuned for 7yrs bolt ons 126k miles still has original head gaskets,turbo, engine, trans it doesn’t even use oil. I change oil depending on how hard it’s been ran but still never go over 3500-4K miles
Thank you, for putting BAD OWNERS on notice. Always the biggest 🐘 in the room. A fool owner who doesn't follow the correct path always ends up breaking some shit.
I own a 2006 wrx.just recently installed a sti mtr an 6 spd trans and all the needed features makes 24 lbs. Boost on 93 Oct. gonna go E 85,,,.it's fun to drive daily.
Also, with modding the stock block, I’d be real careful on a 350+ build on a stock non-RA block. The case likes to flex under high boost/high power and can lead to rod bearing failure. If your doing a rebuild, spend the money to size up the case bolts and head studs. And with speed density, although kinda unnecessary on stock turbo, is beneficial cause your taking air temps and density post turbo and intercooler which helps you prevent being hard on the car with high intake temps.
Tanner I remember you saying to never run an intake and downpipe on newer STi's, so I've been debating on going "stage 1+" or straight to "stage 2". That being said I've been talking to Neil at Bren Tuning and he claims he's able to tune for it to run safely on stock fuel system with Cobb intake and Cobb GESI downpipe. I already have cylinder 4 cooling mod and AOS as well as an AWE track edition catback. I Just wanted to see what you thought being how you always suggest to talk to your tuner plus I trust your judgment 100%. Thanks
You can tune it to work on the stock fuel system but gains are minimal and not worth it IMO. Tunes are less aggressive and are held back on boost. You can but I still wouldn't advise it
2015 sti stage 2, cobb catted downpipe cobb sf intake, tomei exhaust, 136k km and doesn’t burn oil yet and oil stays clear/clean for 5000km which is my oil change routine
Hey Smeedia, I have a question for you. Ive been watching your videos for the past couple of weeks. I own a 2013 STi hatch. Im really impressed with how quickly you tear down these EJ engines and trouble shoot any issues. Just curious, are you a mechanic by trade or did you teach yourself how to work on Subarus so efficiently? Im only asking cause working on my STi has always intimidated me for some reason. I am mechanically inclined and good with basic tools. I just did the DP on my STi about 2 weeks ago and it wasnt so bad after all. Not sure why I was so afraid to dive into it. Please keep the videos coming. Very informative.
Definitely more to come and all self taught, I never went to school for mechanics, never have gotten an ASE Certificate or anything. Just self taught. Best way to learn IMO is to just dive into them 🙏🙏🙏
@@Smeedia installing my DP gave me the confidence to continue working on my STi myself. That's pretty cool that you taught yourself how to work on these engines and your making these videos. You break it all down very simply. Watching your videos has been helping me understand these engines alot more. They're not as intimidating as they may seem to work on I'm realizing. Please make more videos. The Subaru community needs you 😂 👍✌️.
With youtube were all mechanics lol.. I put an 04 coil pack etm throttle vvt cam motor into a 98. Drilled end of cams for rotor plate and distributor, swapped the 98 accessory bracket amd accessories, swapped the 98 intake manifold and cable throttle, and ran the vvt solenoid to a 12v load dependent source. Before this i had never done more then brake pads and oil changes. Hours upon hours of forum reading. Now i have done about everything on the car but engine internals.
i plan on keeping my 21 STI bone stock with the exception of some cosmetics. But I am still terrified of blowing up because the more I look the more horror stories i see. But I know that's also biased as no one goes online to post about how well their car is running. Your advice is good. I plan on babying the car a lot as it is an inner-city car so I don't see the point of going full throttle at lights anyway
Hey Tanner! I had a relatively involved question for you this time around. I own a 21 STi and I am all about making the car as reliable as possible (heavily inspired by you). So far I have an IAG street AOS and GDT Cylinder 4 Cooling Mod hooked up to the engine. I think I am ready to take the next step with a few bolts-ons (for reliability). My ultimate goal for this next step is to install a COBB Front Mount Intercooler (cause its carb legal haha) and Killer B EQL Headers. Maybe a COBB Redline intake. I plan to run near stock horsepower for now. My question for you is: will running a COBB intake, COBB FMIC, and Killer b headers on stock fuel system and stock downpipe cause the EJ257 to lean out? Do you seen any issues with this set up?
@@Smeedia Gotcha! In all honesty its more for reliability than any sort of power gains, but I'll just have to wait and see how it goes! Thanks for the reply 🔥
Best mods to keep your EJ alive is to address the oiling issues, leave it stock or tune it properly. And to drive it properly. They go for a long time. Always address the issues right away.
Subaru owners, if you car has 250hp stock it will last 200k miles, if your pushing 400-500hp you’ll be lucky to get 50k and if you have 1000hp your hoping your car will last 10 seconds a bunch of times. The more hp you get out of the engine, the less miles you will get. That’s how it works
Excellent points. I used to watched Bader but it's playing Russian Roulette with the engine life and longevity and all of those drivers are prepared for a an eventual rebuild after it dies (his words, not mine). Used STIs and WRXs are very popular on the market and you never know what underline issues have happened and will happen so that is another good point to figure out these issues before modifying the tuning the car, 100%. I'm certain that every WRX and STI has been driven hard at some point or else what would be the point of a previous buyer buying the car in the first place. Buyer beware.
Facts, no one babies these cars. They're all driven hard. However if taken care of you can minimize failures. And Josh has said it best, you want a race car you'll have racecar problems 😅
Along with the belts. Double check the pulleys/tensioner and the water pump. Had both a water pump fail and a timing belt tensioner fail that cost me 2 engines.
great post. A LOT of people need to hear this!!! but often they dont even bother too look at information available before they start modding their cars.
Man, you like a super Subaru genius! I don't claim to really know shit about cars but I generally can at least follow the conversation and understand what's being said but watching this just showed me that I am a straight dumb dumb cause.... just so much flew right over my head and had me sitting there with mouth open, going what what, what did he say. I feel like chick right now or something. respect bro!
One of the worst things about driving my 05 lightly modded STi was every asshole trying to bait me into a race at every light. No matter what they drove. I live in Florida so theres that. Had a civic shitbox with a kid driving and 3 chicks trying me in rush hour traffic once. He'd been next to me for miles between lights, revving and talking shit.. Finally I kind of faked him a little, just a little stab in second. He was so busy watching me he had to swerve over the curb to avoid the car in front of him. He still hit them. Plus he broke every suspension part and who knows what else under the car on the curb. The girls busted out laughing at him. No idea what he was thinking, teenager so probably thinking TESTOSTERONE! Even if I was down to race there was nowhere to go, rush hour. And his car..... it was like a 93 Civic Lx 4 door slammed with 4 people in it. Requisite shitty paint and straight pipe exhaust. Hopefully it was a learning eperience for him. How to get girls to laugh at you and refuse rides. About to start a quest for a 14 Sti hatch, should be fun driving 5 hours every direction to find someone's "mint stock" shitbox full of mod problems. But I know she's out there. I will find you, no matter how long, no matter how far! I will find you!
What perfect timing for this video... my 2nd pro tune was supposed to be tomorrow.... yesterday I got CEL, P0011 and P0016 codes... yea can't wait for that phone call from the dealer. Pray for me friends :(
Regular maintenance, warming up and letting it cool down at idle helps a bunch. Get an AOS, cylinder 4 cooling mod. Delete the egr system, if possible. Get a proper tune. Don’t abuse the car on a regular basis.
Haha i remember the 1st ej i timed.. also.. check your belt condition from time to time.. take the cover off and actually make sure everything is good.. u may be surprised🥵
Thank you soo much for sharing your knowledge with all of us 🙏. I just bought a 21 sti base model last month and although I got the 10 year warranty with the car I want to make sure I do everything I can to prevent engine failure
Warming up the engine before you dog it or rev it is super important. Wear is magnified exponentially the cooler the engine is under 180 degrees F. There has been massive research done on this subject and there are wear/temperature charts all over the net referencing this. Another is ETHANOL mixed fuel will reduce the life of your oil. The more ethanol you run in an engine the higher the % of it will leak past the rings and get into your oil. Ethanol is very bad in your crankcase. So if you are running and E mix your oil change intervals should be short.
Having owned three GC8 WRXs at 147k, 128k and 125k miles my opinion is they are reliable cars when left in stock form. They are poor track cars as the stock oiling system cannot cope with track conditions, simple as that. They are also super sensitive to knock/pinging. At the same time subarus are pretty cheap, and very common compared to something like a lancer EVO. They are also the best sports car ever made IMO so Im gonna stick with my subarus as long as I can 👌
I don't own a Subaru never have but they've sparked my interest I'm one of the few people that I actually like the new Subaru WRX Thinking about actually getting one but I'm scared because I keep on hearing stories about Subaru's blowing up your video is very informative though I've always change my oil at 3K even synthetic. Oil is cheap compared to repairs.
Been considering a '16 STi Limited I saw a few days ago... Came across your channel doing research. Of everything I've seen so far it makes me want it more every day... Time to get with the bank me thinks 🤔 😌 😎
@@Smeedia I got it today! 2016 STi Limited It has an aftermarket exhaust (not sure from where... there's no markings on it but noticeably louder than stock), aftermarket wheels, Tien coilovers, K&N air filter, tow hook installed, and tinted windows. I'm super excited to see it in my driveway finally!!! Thnx again for the informative videos. I'll be following your channel and a few others for all the goodness this car has to offer!
if you have oil pressure gauge wait until pressure drops before going ham. At idle my pressure would be around 90-100psi. after fully warmed up it drops to 20psi.
8:49 this is the reason why i bought a IAG stage 2.5 closed deck short block. its sitting in my room and slowly gathering all of the parts to summon the forbbiden one in the future
After market oil pan, new return feed line New fuel rail replace intake with brz super charger retune, add extra coated plugs run motul in engine and royal purple in everything else oh and rings as strong as captain America's shield
Very impressive presentation! Sooo nice to listen to an expert who obviously knows what he's talking about, but can do so without stumbling and constantly repeating "ummm" and "ahhh" to the point that the viewer wonders how far up the gene pool this presenter got. If I was into subie mods ... you'd be the guy I'd be following.
I bought a 2020 STi thinking it would be better. Unfortunately I had bad luck...at 10k the motor decided to say ✌ out. Didn't beat on the car, serviced the car every 3k at Subaru. Checked my oil regularly. I only had an Invidia catback with a stage 1 stock motor tune. Cylinder 1 spun a rod bearing. Also the main crank bearing/seal also went. The Subaru tech wasnt sure which occurred first. I was honest about what modifications were on the car and polite about it. Luckily for me Subaru is going to warranty it out for me. Even if you do everything right, unfortunately it can still happen.
Ive 130000 miles on my 97 Sti Coupe. Bought it with 40000. Never rebuilt. 4 things I done over the years, warm up 3mins, cool down 3-5 minutes sometimes more. Oil changes 5000 miles. Never absolutely dog it in 1st gear. Its been one of the most reliable cars I've owned in over 20 years driving.
Glad to hear she's still going strong 💪
1st gear would b the least stressful on the engine? Surprised u change ur oil that infrequent but it sounds like you dont dog on ur car.
Escluse me what does dog it mean?
@@HandlewithcareVibes driving it hard
@@donovankraus433 5000 miles is infrequent? I change mine every ~8000 or so and no problems in my 50,000 mile ownership
I think one of the things most people overlook when modifying a car is the fact that the more mods you have the shorter it’s engine/trans life will be.
Facts! Definitely can reduce lifespan when you start pushing it harder and farther
It is not as simple as that . Many mods made correctly actually make your car more reliable and they allow you to run more boost and more ignition timing without making the car less reliable than its original form . Moreover , some original parts are so reliable that they can take more power and torque without reducing their lifespan . It starts getting less reliable than stock only for really highly tuned cars...or those tuned badly which makes more than 90% of all problems encountered
@@nikolaosskordas9159 I agree. Either cheap parts or not properly built. I've modded ever car I owned, and none have blown. I've always passed the cars along and seen them on the road years later.
Most mods I do are reliability mods to go along with a better tune and bolt ons. You can get plenty of power out of these cars with that. Just a tune livens these up like crazy
With the mods I've pushed the stock block to at this point, I expect to get at least a little fun out of it in the 'safe' 450hp tune.
But I also got into modding because I flat out KNOW this isn't going to last, and planned what I built into the next stage for the future block build.
Just, if you have this kind of car and you want to build for power, always plan/build for at least a tier over what you want, and if you can, go more.
Got 70k on my built motor...forged pistons, eagle rods, acl bearings...Regular maintenance is key as well as common sense. Sadly common sense isnt so common anymore.
Unfortunately that is too true 😖
Common sense is so rare that it should be a super power. No joke.
Not sure it's ever been common.. that's great tho, bro? Ej20/ej25? Turbo? What car?
@@dannythompson1948 Mostly turbocharged Subarus, all boxer engines, that we drive hard.
Never was.
How to keep a Subaru reliable.... watch Smeedia 🔥😂
😉😉😉😉
Simple
Soo true!!!
I’m here now 👀💯
I just paid for a full motor maintenance job. Killer B oil pickup & baffle, cyl 4 mod, timing belt, spark plugs, oil. And I have an AOS. It was pricey but the peice of mind is worth it.
Spring and Fall=Boost Season. IATs and oil temps are glorious! Lol
Damn glorious 🔥🔥🔥
Boost season for me is Winter
This is why i always say Subarus are good cars and reliable. Most of the time one of these cars blow is usually because of the person behind the wheel not the car. My 2012 WRX is at 145km so close to 100miles and is on the stock trans stock motor stock turbo and havent had a major issue with the car. This was an amazing video!
Thank you and 100%! They're not time bombs like people make them out to be
Mines a little 4 banger outback I daily drive it on top of taking it through every mud hole I see she still rolling fine you just can't be listening to your friends when they are telling you to whip it whip it.
If you're wanting a stock block pushed to 'safe' limits, that's about what I just built. :)
Just finishing up my last parts with my tuner, and looks like I'll be hitting about the numbers I was shooting for.
I built for track & street (non-daily), and have pretty much every single longevity/positive mod you can add at this point (very similar to yours), along with going ETS rotated & ELH.
I'm sitting at 390hp/350lb on o93 10%, @19psi after the first tune session. Obviously we could go more, but it's a good 'safe' area to be in.
For E85, my local station actually tests at 90%. During the tune, I ran into the fuel pump needing more power, so installing the IWire Kit/Studs as we speak to get finished next week. We're shooting for 450hp/380lb @ 19psi, though I might push it to 20 and see how it goes.
Otherwise, after the tune, I cannot believe how smooth, and QUIET it is. The only time you know it's a beast is under mid/heavy throttle. Otherwise regular driving, you would barely notice it was heavily modified. It's a whole different car now, and it feels verrry nice! I highly recommend doing it.
Just as he says, don't cheap out. Get the good stuff, as you'll pay more in money and time later on.
Sounds like a fun and solid build! Huge huge huge to not cheap out on mods!
@@Smeedia Oh it's awesome!
The S207 NBR build is now just about ready to show, but of course now it's coming into late Fall/Winter so nowhere to show it here in WI!
A whole lot of learning going on, but have to say you've been quite the inspiration of getting over my fear building all this over the past couple years. I'm coming from building older Dodge Turbo 2.2's back in the late 90's/2000's. After blowing up a Lancer Shelby back when, was very much nervous about getting back into the car scene.. But it's just part of the DNA, and got my dream car finally to build.
So this time, am making sure to do things right and learn as much as I can. Is also why it's super important to do all my own work, as you can take a ton of pride home knowing when finally done and successful, that warm glow of success.. Even though you have to go through so much pain to get there!
But, the reactions of people who see it and know, I never expected just driving around.. I really need to get this out more, because it seems folks like it. :D
@@clintusmaximus I got 400wheel an 400 TQ and it’s more than enough to have fun with lol 😂I want 1000 next build
@@clintusmaximus that’s what I want is to be scared 😂😂
Hey 👋 hope you are doing okay! I have been following you for quite sometime and have learned a lot about Subarus. I wanted to ask you a question and hoping get sone help. I own a 2015 Subaru Impreza Wrx and wanted to replace the Purge solenoid valve but can’t where is located. Can you please tell me where is the Purge solenoid valve location on the 2015 Subaru Impreza Wrx?. Thanks Bro appreciate you a lot.
Keeping to the maintenance schedule and driving it properly account for 80% I think. Ringland failure and rod bearing failure (apart from 2012-2016 defective blocks after the tsunami's) are usually 100% attributed to the driver. Lugging the engine in too high of a gear cruising, or getting into boost at too low of RPMs in too high of a gear is literally asking for your rings to crumble but it's how every drives (you trying to save MPG in a turbo subaru!?). Modding is it's own can of worms, and can exacerbate issues by problematic drivers.
Correct. Blown EJ motors are typically 99% the fault of the owner. The 1% include cracked oil pickups, backed out oil pump seal plate and defects. I don’t understand how people blow these motors so much. Mine gets thrashed on backroads and driven daily. It an oil filter change ever 2500-3000 miles and all the maintenance is always up to date. I have an intake, turbo inlet, throttle body hose, and the rest is bone stock. I have a custom tune on the car tune for 91 octane and I run 93. I use 5w 40 rotella and my car has been the most reliable car Iv ever seen. It’s a tank. Never ever ever ever ever have issues with my car aside from a rat eating the wires to my coolant temp sensor. I love my wrx. It’s AMAZING.
@@joshuathomas4934 Seconded my man. I'm intake/inlet/ebcs/downpipe, was driving it over 25k miles a year for the first 3.5 years I owned it, down terrible roads and conditions doing client home visits. Nothing has broken that wasn't directly my fault. At 150k now. 2011.
I’m looking at getting a WRX soon, however I always run low RPM (currently have a N/A Impreza). How many rpm is recommended for cruising? And what is the correct shifting rpm for the turbo engines?
@@joshuathomas4934 0
@@MGK-fm9hc that kind of depends on which wrx you're getting at this point in time- 5speed 255 engine, 6spd fa20, or 6spd fa24?
Thanks for explaining why my Subie is still rock solid after 16 years. Great video!!
Thank you! They're solid cars when cared for 🔥😁
So totally true
I had my STi tune modified to run wastegate pressure until coolant went above 80 Deg C.
Made my EJ207 happier, and helped not fill up the catch can.
Good video. I bought an 04 FXT with stage 2 OTS map. It has cobb intake and perrin catless DP. The previous owner was very moderate on the throttle all the time. It has lasted 180k miles. I got a protune for it which was his next step before I got ahold of it. It's also on the stock transmission. We both have done meticulous maintenance on the thing and it's been a reliable daily. Goes to show you can keep these engines alive if you take CARE of them
100%! As long as they've been taken care of they'll last 🔥
air intakes are hit or miss for Ej motors in general due to sensitive changes of AFR and leaner combustion. even if tuned they are still sensitive to the engine.
My first and current car is a 2006 Subaru WRX. Original engine and transmission. Only mods I put on it is an Injen cold air intake and a Greddy TI-C catback exhaust. It’s at 160000 miles and it’s still going strong. Changed the clutch and flywheel 3 times in its lifespan. Changed the timing belt with a performance belt for more lasting durability and replace the starter, ps pump and alternator once as well as spark plugs. It’s just common sense to maintain your car and know it’s limits instead of complaining that a head gasket was blown due to bad engineering rather than faulting the owner for being negligent.
At how many miles dis you replace the starter, ps pump and alternator?
#1 thing my tuner told me was: Please let your car come up to operating temperature before driving hard.
Yes yes yes yes
I like your comment about the reality of the the block. It’s not forged, it’s a flat 4 and it has a shitty tune from factory. The fact that you can make 400ish to the crank reliably is actually impressive lol
Gotta remember they're cast aluminum engines. Nit the strongest lol
@@Smeedia lol truth
The factory pistons in an ej207 sti are forged and how can you prove that the factory tune is bad my legacy gt has 300,000 miles on the stick tune
@@drewlindsay3553 my comment does not apply to jdm cars, their tunes are way better. Usdm sucks
Your channel has been really great as a new owner of an older WRX - thanks man!
Glad that the videos have been helping 🔥😁
We veterans in the Subaru game know what's going on out there, and this isn't new at all. This has been a thing since the debut of the WRX. People aren't doing their maintenance, driving forever on OTS tunes, not tuning for mods, blah, blah, blah. The fault lies solely with the owners. I am at 386k+ miles with my 2002 WRX because I know exactly what I am doing. Take care of them, and they will take care of you!!
No matter how many times I've seen it and heard it...lots of folks RARELY ever follow the parts list for the OTS tunes. And I'm so glad you friggin touched on buying quality parts. So many subarus around my area with improper OTS tunes and crappy parts put on them!
BUT THE BEST THING IVE HEARD IN THIS, that I even stress to everyone I talk to - Know what parts are going on and learn about how they're effecting your engine. Plan out what you're gonna do to the engine, research and research again about the parts and how they contribute, then shoot for it. This ain't no simple AutoZone special type of car and deserves to be treated with quality parts. Give these babies some damn Gucci and LV type of love 😂
THE OTS TUNES LITERALLY TELL YOU WHAT PARTS TO USE, I don't know how to make it any easier or why people deviate from the map notes.
@@Smeedia right?! It's so sad to see that people really don't read or care to do research then go and blame the car for their ignorance imo 😥
1. Keep it stock
2. Do the proper maintenance
3. Keep it stock
4. Change the oil every 6,000 miles
5. Keep it stock
6. Check the oil every 1,000 miles, top off as needed
7. Keep it stock
8. KEEP IT STOCK
Thank you for coming to my Ted Stock
No need to keep it stock just modify it the right way and do oil changes every 3K miles.
@@Smeedia I've found that my 2.5i likes the 3k intervals on royal purple, any longer it gets pretty dark and cold starts make valvetrain noise
I came from the Porsche world where they recommend oil changes every 10k miles or yearly and I can confirm that it is not the same with EJ engines. Just because both are boxer engines does not mean they are the same. It’s not that expensive or difficult to change oil (and filter!) every 3000 miles
Can do it for $40 and 20 minutes out of the day. Dubsrus are somewhat temperamental at times
@@Smeedia I’ve had good results with that Rotella diesel oil. 192k miles and still running strong at 18psi (original stock turbo still)
Ran Rotella for years before swapping to motul, good oil 🔥
@@ericMT what year is your subie?
My 16 sti has made it 120 000 kms so I’m pretty proud of her
whats it at now? mines at 110k miles
Also good idea to let the car sit for a minute before shutting it off to prevent hot oil from baking its self to the I side of the turbo
Thata why there is a turbo coolant tank right next to the turbo.
I got at 2019 wrx CVT, I got it brand new, I put about 42k miles on it before I got it protuned, before I got it tuned I got an ETS intake installed, ran it with OTS and my Anxy port kept going at it, installed a catted invidia downpipe and IAG AOS, the car is now at 87k(I use it for work, drive around sf) i warm it up everytime it’s cold start loud, when i push it I don’t smell any burnt oil, I’m waiting for 100k+ mods or just swapping to to STI transmission when the time comes! So far the car has beeen going at it happily
Glad to hear that it's been treating you well! 🥳🥳🥳
You can use this advice for any car project. You have to fix issues before you try to build up.
Always gotta fix the issued first!
literally just bought a 2013 wrx. perfect timing
Congrats on the car my dude 🔥😁
A great video for all of us out there modifying and working on the subies. You and others are a great reference brother. Thanks for doing this video. I'm going to be out of town for subifest this year. Next year I will be there. Oh yeahhhh. Subies forever guys and gals.
Stay safe on your trip Paul 🤙
I got a stock 2017 wrx. I let my car warm up AT LEAST to 150 degrees (oil temp in the mini display in the dash above the radio) With the way I drive, even if I am on the high way for a long time going 75 or something, I have never gotten temps higher than 208 (and that's after going full boost to pass some one) When I slow her down to 75 and stay there, the car temps drop to 204-207. Then every once in a while, I'll get off and get gas and let my car cool down a bit, and she gets to 194-197 (depending on if it's a hot summer day or cold winter) I've had litterally no issues with that. Also checking the oil every once in a while and making sure everything is good. I know right now I gotta handle my oil drain seal (starting to do leaks but very minor). 90k miles and no rod knock. Fantastic car that will work great if I keep up with everything.
Can u make a separate video like this, but geared more towards a daily driver non-performance stock Subaru for your avg Joe?
More specifically for 2.5 Liter engine that has little to no mods. I.e. Forester, legacy, Outback, etc., nor is a “sports” trim.
Just discovering your channel and I’m pretty impressed. U explain things relatively rookie friendly. Keep up the good work👍
I can definitely see what I can whip up 🔥🙏 and thank you! 😁
So true about using quality parts. I'm orig owner of an 05 sti. At about 115k got a code that front o2 sensor was bad. Bought a Denso o2 sensor off Amazon. Worked fine for a few thousand miles then started to get a funky idle and acceleration hesitations. Tuner and 2 diff mechanics could not figure out what the issue was (kept blaming the injectors which were fine). Long story short, engine failed had a new IAG stage 2 tuff SB installed at about 118K and still had the idle/hesitation issues. Finally went to a new tuner who was quite savy and thought that my O2 sensor was likely counterfeit or bad. Put in an oem o2 sensor and car idled and ran perfectly. Counterfeit o2 sensor from Amazon likely caused my orig engine to fail. Lesson learned, only buy oem or quality aftermarket parts. Amazon is no place to buy car part for our subies.
The amount of OEM counterfeit parts coming out had been absolutely insane lately 😤
Great vid. Hoping more people will finally "get it" Subies get a bad rep. for being "ticking time bombs" but 98% of the time, they blow because of either abuse/poor maintenance, or idiots slapping on a bunch of bolt on parts modding the crap out of it without building up a proper foundation first ! I am surpised you didn't touch on the one thing, and probably why you are seeing a lot more "my subie blew up" posts. The weather is getting cooler, which makes it easier to go do burnouts/drifting in the parking lots. #1 way to blow your subie up real fast!
Trying to help where I can 🔥🙏
EJ205 is the best mod.
No ringland issues,
No headgasket issue.
No bearing issues unless maf is stuffed.
Keeps boosting for 350,000km
Got knock? Add methanl/water injection 👍 I've been running the Snow Performance stage 2 setup for ~40k miles on my FA WRX. 112k on the odometer and I've been auto-crossing it since March 2020.
Solid kit! Have the fail safe added as well or are you only using it for the cooling?
I am the fail safe lol. Just have to make sure the LED lights up and always monitor the AP for any funny business. The only issues I've had are with the quick connect fittings going to the tank/pump coming off after being hit by the sub woofer (It's been addressed now lol) and draining all the fuel into the spare tire compartment. "What is that smell? Why is the car running shitty? Oh..."
I just bought a ‘13 WRX hatch, and it’s bone stock and I love it. I’ve been working on cars (repairs, not mods or tuning) for about five years. I was driving a ‘93 Camry and it had all kinds of cheap parts, no problem. But now looking at actual good quality parts for Subies, holy shit 😂 I see why people say they’re money pits. Buuuuut, I also know, good parts and regular maintenance means a longer engine life. So I’m hyped to see what I can do with this thing. Awesome video man, you made a ton of great points!
Congrats on the car dude and they are definitely money pits but awesome cars 🔥
I have an AEM oil pressure sensor and I use that to gauge (excuse the pun) when the car is warm enough. Typically oil pressure is around 97 PSI at first startup and I wait till it drops to 90 before driving, which also is almost exactly the same amount of time it takes for the coolant gauge to rise up a couple notches from zero. Probably 4 minutes or so.
I figure that the oil is warmer than it was at cold start and the coolant is also beginning to circulate meaning the thermostat has opened, so it’s safe to drive. I do this every. single. time. I drive the car.
man im so anxiety ridden for my poor ol EJ that i bought from some shady dealer on accident (learned they were shady after i bought the car, looking at you boss motors) and its got 180k on it currently, i literally give it atleast 10 minutes before i even think about driving it LOL
My 2009 Forester X (non-turbo) is still stock and still going strong at 195,000 miles damn near 200k. Thought bout slapping a turbo on it, but putting turbos on n/a Subaru can really mess everything up. So I just got exterior mods on it and not touching the engine compartment, just leaving it stock
Def agree!! Also proper crankcase ventilation. Too much crankcase pressure will blow out seals or worse. If your adding a 100hp+ to your motor enlarging the hose size or introducing a catch can will help dramatically.
Water meth ppl like to say its not for daily i call bs! Ive been running snow performance kit with a 40% methanol 60% water mix. Drastically reduces iat probably as much or more then an upgraded intercooler. Its only used in high boost situations so 1 gallon will usually last 30 to 40 gallons of gas.
And will also cut down on carbom buildup significantly. Its like steam cleaning your valves. Even more helpful on direct injection. My tuner has my cel set to flash when knock is detected so i know to let off. I monitor oil temp with a 1/8 npt hollow drain plug. Super easy no drilling and tapping. Funny you said that, my coolant temp will reach half long before the oil temp moves. I usually wait til ay least 100°f before driving and 150°f before getting into boost. A wideband is super helpful at making sure your afr are stable. Pretty much a necessity. Aem x series with bosch 4.9 have the fastest response time and are extremely reliable.
Boost gauge also helpful especially if tuned with boostcut eliminated. Replacing any old rubber vac lines with silicone can save you from air leaks and lean conditions. In volvo world we call this stage 0. Plugs ( 1 step colder if plan on adding power and properly gapped will save blowout
.020-.024 depending on engine) coils or wires cap rotor, replacing any aged stiff rubber hoses, refreshing pcv system, changing fluids (believe it or not brake fluid goes bad), coolant flush, back flushing heater core, checking any mounts and steering components, intake throttle amd exhaust gaskets. As far as fuel i always always run 93 and often add vp racing octanium (adds 7 octane) believe me it works. Ive ran as much ignition timing on wmi and 93+vp as ppl on e85 with zero knock even on hot days with multiple runs and on stock intercooler. And almosy as important as letting your car warm is letting it cool. Dont run it hard down the highway get off the exit to your house and shut it right off. My buddy blew the turbo om his legacy gt got it glowing and shut it down right after. Youll coke the bearings, it literally bakes the oil into char. Turbos and downpipes can get as hot at 1900°f so you can imagine what that does to oil that stops flowing. Think of it like that stream that doesnt freeze in the winter while all those still ponds have 2 ft of ice. You can get a turbo timer that runs off oil temp but i jist use the old saab suggested method they used to stamp on the sun visor. "Let car run 90 seconds at idle before shutting down".
Im sure i missed some other good points and apologize i in no way am meaning to hijack your video. Just thought id offer my 8 cents (was quite a bit more then .02)
You wanna talk about heat soak, try Rallycross and grid, good lord iat's go through the roof. And not much you can do. Love the video man! Hit multiple nails on the head!
IATs 📈📈📈 my old TMIC set up on my 07 STI would cook bacon when I ran Auto cross in Louisiana 😳
How do you monitor IATs? I have a JDM WRX bugeye running 307bhp and 352nm/TQ so pretty good for a td04 with turboback and upgraded fuel pump.
I was going to upgrade to an STI tmic but got told it wasn't worth it since I don't race it's a daily driver.
How do I monitor IATs and is the WRX top mount fine for this use?
@@liammcknight3845 I used a laser thermometer when I pop my hood at grid. I've got an Sti intercooler that I'm going to install a thermocouple into and I've also got the sprayer kit as well. And I'll monitor iat's with the thermocouple though when I get there
Hey Subie nation! I have a 99 JDM Subie Legacy gt twin turbo vdc wagon. I'm lovin it. 180xxx km previous owner took very good care of it. I am a first time Subaru owner.
It’s been a bit of a shock for my brother going from a 4Runner to a WRX😂…let’s just say he’s not used to “maintaining” a vehicle.
Video was super helpful for things to look for and understand with the subarus👍🏻
Definitely a diffrent breed of car, glad the video helped 💪🔥😁
I hate that I like subarus, luckily I have my reliable Toyota’s to keep on driving when they break
If I end up getting the wrx I'm looking at it will probably be my less reliable vehicle even though my 4runner is close to 300k, tho the odometer has been broken way before I owned it so who knows it could be past that by now
I was offered a 02 wrx for my 04 v6 4Runner with 270k miles and even tho the Subaru has way less miles it’s still scary to think about trading a Toyota for a Subaru 😂
In the grand scheme of things I know nothing about Subarus.
With that said I’m in my first sti attempting to build the ultimate daily… without ruining it.
I have cheaped out on… nothing. Iv done a lot although not much past intake and catback in terms of air fuel.
I’m currently running 93 stage 1+ OTS tune. Running the redline intake.
Did every 30k maintenance item.
My engine runs smooth, happy and knock has never reached past 2.4. Besides bad gas.
Follow his rules follow the Bible of reliability items and consider 0w-40 instead of 5w-30.
Mine is daily beaten and has a obsessive mechanic. I’m pretty proud and not worried so far.
I can't get over the importance of this video. I have a tuned classic saab900 that was a field find, the first year of the project was just getting to "stage 0" and starting with a solid and healthy foundation. Drive the car as it is and get a feel for it and how it is going to respond to modifications and create a plan for tuning. Putting parts that work together to achieve an end goal is essential
I got my wrx last week with 56k and the first thing I did was have the 60k service done. And multi point done so I new were to start working on it now I know we're to start diving in. In my case the shocks were leaking so I'll be doing a coil swap this week love your videos
Congrats on the car and will be jight and day difference on coilovers!
Lmao, you have me laughing with the skyrocket piston, I just imagine that happening. I got a 2011 WRX stock in August 2020, been watching you and learned a lot.
Already got AOS, 4th cylinder cooling mod, Cobb SF intake, Kartboy short-throw shifter, bushing, and the AP.
Eyyyyy already got a solid set up for some mods 🔥😁
Got my 04 wrx with almost 185k. Stock motor, catless uppipe and TBE, turbo inlet, EBCS, walbro 255, stage 2 OTS map, I drive like a normal person.
Change the oil every 5k. Don't let my car warm up, I let it run for a minute then drive off without going over 2.5-3k til it's up to temp. Done a ton of preventative stuff (killer-b oil pickup / baffle, DOM cooling mod, changed all the hoses under the hood, new MAF, new coil packs) and address problems as they pop up.
I'm surprised it's lasted me this long, at this point, I think my car will last past 200k
As long as they're taken care of they're 👌 seen some stock engine cars go past 350K miles
@@Smeedia alright, I'm shooting for 350 now 😂
This is couldn’t have come at a better time, especially since I’m getting my first STI in the next few a days to week😍 I’m lucky enough to have the short block recall done on the STI I’m buying. I am however looking into buying a closed deck short block or Type RA short block. I am talking to a well known performance shop that is in NY 4 hours away from me.
What block are you looking at going with? 👀🔥
@@Smeedia idk yet, I’m going to modify the car as it sits right now to make about 360whp, he has a list for me for that build, then the built motor I’m thinking of going rotated turbo kit, to handle at least 700, I’ll probably be doing the build myself but buy the short block, I’m a mechanic but with this build I don’t wanna mess something up. That’s only one build I’ll be doing though.👀🔥 I will probably start a channel for both subies I have and see if I can get a fan base going.
@@thatorangesti8864 hey bro I’m planning to as well, did you buy it and how is it?
All this is so helpful. Coming from the Honda world this all new to me. I have '06 Fozzy 2.5 XT and it is my baby so now I can take care of it the way it should be.
Everyone, make sure you get a AMS intake mani like he shows in the background. It will make engine last 4 ever.
😅😅😅
I currently have a ‘19 STI. STI short shift. Got it at 5k miles. Now it’s got 23k miles. It’s my legitimate daily driver. Love it!!!! Glad to hear it’s the S209 setup😅. And that 3rd gear has been “beefed up?” The only mod it has is a COBB AOS. Didn’t know what the heck it was at first until I did some “Google Fu”. Glad the last owner invested in that. My mechanic that I’ve been going to for years said it was a solid install. I do Full Synth 5W30 oil changes exactly at 5k intervals but always keep a reserve quart. I rotate the tires every other oil change. Pain in the ass with that plastic panel I have to remove every time because I jack up and crawl under the car to change oil. Learned as a driver by trade that older engines and anything turbo will consume oil despite being in tip-top condition. Lots of highway commuting is why I have a longer oil change interval and per Subaru, which I kinda am skeptical deep inside. I’ll change intervals to 3k/3months.
These STIs are an investment. You don’t hear this that much about cars unless it’s Porsche, Supra etc. I’ve been, recently, offered more than I paid for it! It’ll hold its value for the most part even after this used car bubble bursts.
Every car I’ve ever had is always considered a POS from a POS manufacturer. I’ve always maintained my vehicles. And if any upgrades were done. I bit the bullet and got quality parts. I’m just an enthusiast and can turn a wrench but if I am unsure I will go to an established pro and have what I need done.
I remember my 05 WRX Wagon, my first AWD turbo…autobox, always downshifted that thing to stay outta OD😒. I used royal purple in that one regularly. I was only in my 20s 😬. Never had issues with my Subies. Just did routine maintenance. Never modded them extensively for that matter.
I hated that I couldn’t use my STI during last winter because I knew that it was sitting on 19” summer tires and couldn’t invest in all seasons or a separate 18” snow-tire/wheel yet. I have a Wrangler as a backup 🤣.
Would a COBB AccessPort be beneficial without having modded anything???? Or a professional tune??
Just wanna help the STI be more efficient, smooth and prolong its life…
And make more HP on the side 😈
I plan on keeping this STI. Or until Subaru convinces me to buy whatever STI reboot (8 Speed DSG-ish) 400hp Wagon they come up with in the future 🤣 🤣.
I chose to remain stock. Watching this, I’m greatly satisfied in my decision becase this is too much work for me, man. Mods are cool if you’re ready to put the time & Mooney in it - I still believe in buying the stock speed i desire & keep it stock. I’ll stick to being slow in my fully OEM Fozzy & living vicariously through others’ mods 😅.
Nothing wrong with that 🔥🔥
I think Knock needs to be discussed more. I remember when I purchased my first Subaru and AP, I would see -2 knock on the freeway and I would get anxiety lol! I spoke with my tuner and he said it was “phantom knock” and he clarified it what was going on. I had never heard of it in the past.
I can make a subaru knock video 💪
@@Smeedia do it! 😁
thatd be correct from what ive heard online and between my tuner and a few other tuners, there is alot of phantom knock with the EJ's, the knock sensor is just so anxiety ridden and i hate it, but its also super helpful
I jus got a 2002 subaru 2.5rs a couple months ago and ive been doing lil things to get it running better it just has alot of old parts, this video helped out alot thank u 🙏🏽 motivated more to get this restored
Eyyyy love some 2.5 action 🔥 glad the video helped my friend!
Would be Awesome to see your way doing a carbon clean mate.
Ohhhh yes 🔥
Based on my experience, my Subaru Impreza WRX 2002 Bugeye is perhaps one of the rarest models in the Alps. In my community and among other Subaru enthusiasts here, we've collectively driven around 300,000 kilometers with boxer engines. The key to their longevity is diligent maintenance. It's important to note that Subaru recommends oil servicing for EJ20 engines and the EJ25/EJ20X/EJ20Y variants every 9,000-10,000 kilometers. In contrast, my Audi A4 TDI, for instance, requires an oil change every 30,000 kilometers. Boxer engines demand meticulous maintenance to avoid damage, and using high-quality oil is crucial. Personally, I've only used Motul 6100 or ARAL BlueTronic oil.
When it comes to modifications, I prefer to keep my car stock. However, if you're looking for a bit more power, I would consider ECU mapping. The Bugeye models tend to run a bit rich, so optimizing the fuel-air mixture can extract additional power without compromising longevity. I would advise against tuning the car or adding aftermarket air intakes if you intend to keep it running smoothly for the long haul. All in all, the boxer were designed to run at least 275.000 Kilometers and the failing rate is under 20%, for the ones tested in the laboratory, a little bit higher failing rate as my 3.0 TDI, but V6 diesel clearly live longer than petrol boxer engines. Still a boxer can be reliable, and you really have to fuck up the head gasket with a shity tune in my eyes.
Love these videos man they honestly do help a ton
Glad that they're helping 🔥🙏
When I built my wagon I made sure I spent on top parts I was told by a tuner years ago spend the big money once is better than spending it twice on cheap parts which will cost more in the long run
Facts, I've learned the hard way. Buy it once so you don't have to buy it again
I'm a new 2020 STi owner and this is gold.
Congrats on the car 🔥😁
Didn't realize it at the time, but pretty sure I took a couple pictures of your car, last Saturday. Saw it parked on my way out from snagging some smoothies, and had to share with a friend. Small world!
Eyyyy!! South hill area? 🔥
@@Smeedia this was actually Kitsap area! Saw it outside Maxx Nutrition, as I was walkin out. If it wasn't yours, definitely inspiring others!! 🚕😅
I was out there a few weeks ago 😅🔥
Great vid as usual bro🤙🏽 Ima change my oil return line on my ej this weekend lol. Just take off dp and I'll be good right, or should I loosen the upPipe a bit 🥴
Loosen the turbo on the up pipe, will make it 100X easier
Well said bro, thats what I said to most customer when they ask me when modifying subaru.
🙏🙏🙏
Always informative content. 👍🏻
💪🙏
05 Wrx pro tuned for 7yrs bolt ons 126k miles still has original head gaskets,turbo, engine, trans it doesn’t even use oil. I change oil depending on how hard it’s been ran but still never go over 3500-4K miles
Thank you, for putting BAD OWNERS on notice.
Always the biggest 🐘 in the room. A fool owner who doesn't follow the correct path always ends up breaking some shit.
Not trying to put anyone on blast but gotta be said 😅🙏
@@Smeedia THEY KNOW who they be! 🥴😆
I own a 2006 wrx.just recently installed a sti mtr an 6 spd trans and all the needed features makes 24 lbs. Boost on 93 Oct. gonna go E 85,,,.it's fun to drive daily.
Also, with modding the stock block, I’d be real careful on a 350+ build on a stock non-RA block. The case likes to flex under high boost/high power and can lead to rod bearing failure. If your doing a rebuild, spend the money to size up the case bolts and head studs.
And with speed density, although kinda unnecessary on stock turbo, is beneficial cause your taking air temps and density post turbo and intercooler which helps you prevent being hard on the car with high intake temps.
my 06wrx is still healthy with cobb ots stage 2 map since 2012. only upgraded the suspension bits and followed maintenance. always garaged
Tanner I remember you saying to never run an intake and downpipe on newer STi's, so I've been debating on going "stage 1+" or straight to "stage 2". That being said I've been talking to Neil at Bren Tuning and he claims he's able to tune for it to run safely on stock fuel system with Cobb intake and Cobb GESI downpipe. I already have cylinder 4 cooling mod and AOS as well as an AWE track edition catback. I Just wanted to see what you thought being how you always suggest to talk to your tuner plus I trust your judgment 100%. Thanks
You can tune it to work on the stock fuel system but gains are minimal and not worth it IMO. Tunes are less aggressive and are held back on boost. You can but I still wouldn't advise it
@@Smeedia cool so than I'll just go with the down pipe and heat mitigation mods.
2015 sti stage 2, cobb catted downpipe cobb sf intake, tomei exhaust, 136k km and doesn’t burn oil yet and oil stays clear/clean for 5000km which is my oil change routine
Hey Smeedia, I have a question for you. Ive been watching your videos for the past couple of weeks. I own a 2013 STi hatch. Im really impressed with how quickly you tear down these EJ engines and trouble shoot any issues. Just curious, are you a mechanic by trade or did you teach yourself how to work on Subarus so efficiently? Im only asking cause working on my STi has always intimidated me for some reason. I am mechanically inclined and good with basic tools. I just did the DP on my STi about 2 weeks ago and it wasnt so bad after all. Not sure why I was so afraid to dive into it. Please keep the videos coming. Very informative.
Definitely more to come and all self taught, I never went to school for mechanics, never have gotten an ASE Certificate or anything. Just self taught. Best way to learn IMO is to just dive into them 🙏🙏🙏
@@Smeedia installing my DP gave me the confidence to continue working on my STi myself. That's pretty cool that you taught yourself how to work on these engines and your making these videos. You break it all down very simply. Watching your videos has been helping me understand these engines alot more. They're not as intimidating as they may seem to work on I'm realizing. Please make more videos. The Subaru community needs you 😂 👍✌️.
With youtube were all mechanics lol.. I put an 04 coil pack etm throttle vvt cam motor into a 98. Drilled end of cams for rotor plate and distributor, swapped the 98 accessory bracket amd accessories, swapped the 98 intake manifold and cable throttle, and ran the vvt solenoid to a 12v load dependent source. Before this i had never done more then brake pads and oil changes. Hours upon hours of forum reading. Now i have done about everything on the car but engine internals.
i plan on keeping my 21 STI bone stock with the exception of some cosmetics. But I am still terrified of blowing up because the more I look the more horror stories i see. But I know that's also biased as no one goes online to post about how well their car is running. Your advice is good. I plan on babying the car a lot as it is an inner-city car so I don't see the point of going full throttle at lights anyway
Hey Tanner!
I had a relatively involved question for you this time around.
I own a 21 STi and I am all about making the car as reliable as possible (heavily inspired by you). So far I have an IAG street AOS and GDT Cylinder 4 Cooling Mod hooked up to the engine. I think I am ready to take the next step with a few bolts-ons (for reliability).
My ultimate goal for this next step is to install a COBB Front Mount Intercooler (cause its carb legal haha) and Killer B EQL Headers. Maybe a COBB Redline intake. I plan to run near stock horsepower for now.
My question for you is: will running a COBB intake, COBB FMIC, and Killer b headers on stock fuel system and stock downpipe cause the EJ257 to lean out? Do you seen any issues with this set up?
You can do it but you won't really see any of the benefits of the mods without st minimum doing injectors and a Fuel pump 😖
@@Smeedia Gotcha! In all honesty its more for reliability than any sort of power gains, but I'll just have to wait and see how it goes! Thanks for the reply 🔥
@@trnql_noir what did you end up doing?
Best mods to keep your EJ alive is to address the oiling issues, leave it stock or tune it properly. And to drive it properly. They go for a long time. Always address the issues right away.
3 in a row maybe?
4 in a row!
@@Smeedia is it 4 in a row first... Thought just 3 xD can you tell I'm bored?
I thought It was 9 row? 👀
@@Smeedia row row row your boat. Slowly down the stream. Just reminded me to order oil stuff before my trip so I can do it right when I get back.
I am using on all my subarus link standalone ecu always great results better then cobb better then oem ecu so much options just simply the best 👌🏽
Standalone will always be 💪
Subaru owners, if you car has 250hp stock it will last 200k miles, if your pushing 400-500hp you’ll be lucky to get 50k and if you have 1000hp your hoping your car will last 10 seconds a bunch of times. The more hp you get out of the engine, the less miles you will get. That’s how it works
Yoooo! I know the guy that bought this car off you!!! This thing is nuts!
🔥🔥🔥🔥
Step 1. Remove the turbo. Thanks for coming.
Excellent points. I used to watched Bader but it's playing Russian Roulette with the engine life and longevity and all of those drivers are prepared for a an eventual rebuild after it dies (his words, not mine). Used STIs and WRXs are very popular on the market and you never know what underline issues have happened and will happen so that is another good point to figure out these issues before modifying the tuning the car, 100%. I'm certain that every WRX and STI has been driven hard at some point or else what would be the point of a previous buyer buying the car in the first place. Buyer beware.
Facts, no one babies these cars. They're all driven hard. However if taken care of you can minimize failures. And Josh has said it best, you want a race car you'll have racecar problems 😅
Tomei timing belt guide is a must to make sure that timing belt doesn't skip. OEM part is useless when compared to it
Recommend Smeedia aggressively😈😈💥💥💥👍🏼+ Thanks for addressing a video like this👏🏼👏🏼!
❤🔥❤🔥
Along with the belts. Double check the pulleys/tensioner and the water pump. Had both a water pump fail and a timing belt tensioner fail that cost me 2 engines.
Tensioner is a big one!
great post. A LOT of people need to hear this!!! but often they dont even bother too look at information available before they start modding their cars.
Fuel quality is everything in a tuned wrx/ sti. My '16 wrx cobb accessport goes wild with crappy gas
They FREAK OUT, happened with the 05 a while ago
Man, you like a super Subaru genius! I don't claim to really know shit about cars but I generally can at least follow the conversation and understand what's being said but watching this just showed me that I am a straight dumb dumb cause.... just so much flew right over my head and had me sitting there with mouth open, going what what, what did he say. I feel like chick right now or something. respect bro!
One of the worst things about driving my 05 lightly modded STi was every asshole trying to bait me into a race at every light. No matter what they drove. I live in Florida so theres that. Had a civic shitbox with a kid driving and 3 chicks trying me in rush hour traffic once. He'd been next to me for miles between lights, revving and talking shit.. Finally I kind of faked him a little, just a little stab in second. He was so busy watching me he had to swerve over the curb to avoid the car in front of him. He still hit them. Plus he broke every suspension part and who knows what else under the car on the curb. The girls busted out laughing at him. No idea what he was thinking, teenager so probably thinking TESTOSTERONE! Even if I was down to race there was nowhere to go, rush hour. And his car..... it was like a 93 Civic Lx 4 door slammed with 4 people in it. Requisite shitty paint and straight pipe exhaust. Hopefully it was a learning eperience for him. How to get girls to laugh at you and refuse rides.
About to start a quest for a 14 Sti hatch, should be fun driving 5 hours every direction to find someone's "mint stock" shitbox full of mod problems. But I know she's out there. I will find you, no matter how long, no matter how far! I will find you!
Yeah the oil leak I to my coolant definitely got me. I should’ve stopped driving the car and fix it first. Learned my lesson
Live and learn 🙏🙏🙏
What perfect timing for this video... my 2nd pro tune was supposed to be tomorrow.... yesterday I got CEL, P0011 and P0016 codes... yea can't wait for that phone call from the dealer. Pray for me friends :(
🙏🤞
Regular maintenance, warming up and letting it cool down at idle helps a bunch. Get an AOS, cylinder 4 cooling mod. Delete the egr system, if possible. Get a proper tune. Don’t abuse the car on a regular basis.
If you want your subaru to live even longer use 5w 40 Rotella or Delco diesel oil
Haha i remember the 1st ej i timed.. also.. check your belt condition from time to time.. take the cover off and actually make sure everything is good.. u may be surprised🥵
Factssssss, covers are easy to pop off 🤌
Thank you soo much for sharing your knowledge with all of us 🙏. I just bought a 21 sti base model last month and although I got the 10 year warranty with the car I want to make sure I do everything I can to prevent engine failure
Congrats on the car and anytime!
Warming up the engine before you dog it or rev it is super important. Wear is magnified exponentially the cooler the engine is under 180 degrees F. There has been massive research done on this subject and there are wear/temperature charts all over the net referencing this. Another is ETHANOL mixed fuel will reduce the life of your oil. The more ethanol you run in an engine the higher the % of it will leak past the rings and get into your oil. Ethanol is very bad in your crankcase. So if you are running and E mix your oil change intervals should be short.
Having owned three GC8 WRXs at 147k, 128k and 125k miles my opinion is they are reliable cars when left in stock form. They are poor track cars as the stock oiling system cannot cope with track conditions, simple as that. They are also super sensitive to knock/pinging. At the same time subarus are pretty cheap, and very common compared to something like a lancer EVO. They are also the best sports car ever made IMO so Im gonna stick with my subarus as long as I can 👌
I don't own a Subaru never have but they've sparked my interest I'm one of the few people that I actually like the new Subaru WRX Thinking about actually getting one but I'm scared because I keep on hearing stories about Subaru's blowing up your video is very informative though I've always change my oil at 3K even synthetic. Oil is cheap compared to repairs.
Just keep it stock, let it warm up, and take care of it and it will last.
Keep it standard and service it by the book. My dad's first legacy did 302000 miles before being traded in.
Been considering a '16 STi Limited I saw a few days ago... Came across your channel doing research. Of everything I've seen so far it makes me want it more every day... Time to get with the bank me thinks 🤔 😌 😎
Eyyyy glad to hear! Keep me posted if you pick it up 🥳
@@Smeedia I got it today!
2016 STi Limited
It has an aftermarket exhaust (not sure from where... there's no markings on it but noticeably louder than stock), aftermarket wheels, Tien coilovers, K&N air filter, tow hook installed, and tinted windows.
I'm super excited to see it in my driveway finally!!!
Thnx again for the informative videos. I'll be following your channel and a few others for all the goodness this car has to offer!
Eyyyy congrats Bryan!!!
if you have oil pressure gauge wait until pressure drops before going ham. At idle my pressure would be around 90-100psi. after fully warmed up it drops to 20psi.
8:49 this is the reason why i bought a IAG stage 2.5 closed deck short block. its sitting in my room and slowly gathering all of the parts to summon the forbbiden one in the future
After market oil pan, new return feed line New fuel rail replace intake with brz super charger retune, add extra coated plugs run motul in engine and royal purple in everything else oh and rings as strong as captain America's shield
Very impressive presentation! Sooo nice to listen to an expert who obviously knows what he's talking about, but can do so without stumbling and constantly repeating "ummm" and "ahhh" to the point that the viewer wonders how far up the gene pool this presenter got. If I was into subie mods ... you'd be the guy I'd be following.
Appreciate the feedback and glad to hear! 😁😁😁
I bought a 2020 STi thinking it would be better. Unfortunately I had bad luck...at 10k the motor decided to say ✌ out. Didn't beat on the car, serviced the car every 3k at Subaru. Checked my oil regularly. I only had an Invidia catback with a stage 1 stock motor tune. Cylinder 1 spun a rod bearing. Also the main crank bearing/seal also went. The Subaru tech wasnt sure which occurred first. I was honest about what modifications were on the car and polite about it. Luckily for me Subaru is going to warranty it out for me. Even if you do everything right, unfortunately it can still happen.
Glad to hear that they're helping, if your honest and up front with dealers. Most of the time they're willing to help
Me too...I find getting angry will typically get you no where. I know if someone is rude to me, my willingness to help is significantly decreased.😂