I broke in my stage 2.5 to 1,800 miles this time just because. I also just learned that we have looser tolerances for pistons for higher power so I can hear the piston slap on warm up so that’s normal don’t be scared if you hear it. My STI is on 40 lbs of boost and I finally finished tuning.
The looser piston tolerances are due to using forged pistons. Cast pistons don’t expand near as much when they heat up, that’s why you don’t hear it in a stock engine. Forged pistons expand much more do to heat so they have to size the cylinder bore larger for when they are at operating temp, this is the cause of piston slap on cold starts, by using offset wrist pins you can minimize piston slap, but it’s no big deal really
I found it very helpful as I’m nearing an engine swap on my 2016 wrx. With a 142,000 miles it’s almost that time after I had a cam gear failure With the motor removed to do the repair might as well swap it instead of paying for 2 engine removals
For the first heat cycle, it's important to use a no-spill funnel to bleed the system from the highest point. This is usually the coolant expansion tank. Once you turn off the engine, wait for the coolant to cool off before removing the funnel. Make sure to check your coolant levels when the car has cooled off every time you change the oil, and add more coolant if necessary.
Hey guys does this process apply to brand new cars from the factory too? I'm gonna be taking delivery of a 2024 BRZ soon and I want to treat it right. 🙏
Was waiting for this vid for a long time have a big Faith jn the fa24 wanna have an fa24 sg9 Forester and a Subaru legacy 3.0r manual specb jdm perfect duo
I have Millers break in oil, But for the first startup I wanna use a mineral oil with ZDDP additive as I will be flushing it out after idling for 5-10 mins. Can I use "MOTUL 3000 4T Plus 10w-40HC-TECH Mineral Engine Oil" for the first 10 mins?
Curious, im build race engines in a different non automotive industry, we always recommend to change spark plus fairly quickly do to metal contamination from break in, do you guys not encounter that issue?
Please advise. The service that customizes my car recommended me not to warm up the engine. They said that I should start the engine and wait for a maximum of one minute and start driving smoothly. Do you think this makes sense? Because I doubt very much that it can be useful for a new engine.
Is the engine stock? This break-in procedure is for our built engines. Otherwise, we recommended following the manufacturer's break-in and warm-up procedures.
Seems like the ticket to engine break-in is drive spirited but stay under 4k rpm and do not go into high boost. Let the engine warm up before going ham. Change the oil early. Simple
I was told of a very specific engine break-in process by a nice guy that worked at Toyota on all of their race engines from the 1990's to the time where I met him around 2010. That process is as follows: Mile 0 Break-in oil and new filter. Start the engine and get it to operating temperature. Make sure there are no leaks. Mile 0-500 Break-in oil and new filter. 4000rpm max. No boost. No cruise control. No excessive idling. Change gears every 90 seconds. Engine braking (downshift) whenever possible. Oil consumption will occur. Mile 501-1500 Break-in oil and new filter. 4500rpm max. Minimal boost (1-3psi). No cruise control. No excessive idling. Change gears every 90 seconds. Engine braking (downshift) whenever possible. Oil consumption will occur. Mile 1501-3000 Break-in oil and new filter. 5000rpm max. Minimal boost (4-7psi). No cruise control. No excessive idling. Change gears every 90 seconds. Engine braking (downshift) whenever possible. Oil consumption will occur. Mile 3001 and after Run whichever oil & filter you prefer. I followed this process and my ej255 has been untouched since this process was completed. It has been over 100,000 miles since the time that process was completed and I have no oil consumption issues. I'm running stock boost levels, and it was performed on a OEM complete block with no modifications done - some parts were changed (ARP head studs, Cometic MLS head gaskets, KillerB oil pickup). The Subaru specialist shop that did the engine swap detailed the same process. As per the oil, choose whichever break-in oil you are comfortable with. As per the filter, OEM filters are trash - most of the damage occurs from particles in the 20 micron and smaller range. With that in mind, Royal Purple, AMSOil and the Fram Ultra Synthetic are the best oil filters on the market (unless you opt for a bypass kit). This process was completed on my Toyota Mr2 and it was an incredibly rev happy engine (redline of 7200rpm) and it had no oil consumption issues either. Does this process require an incredible amount of patience? Yes, it absolutely does. Is it worth it? Absolutely!
@@juliusschreck613 You have an opinion. Good for you. I'll stick by the word of someone that actually worked on Toyota's racing engines for over a decade.
The FA24 is using our prototype FA firelock headgasket. This break-in process is the same for all our engine builds regardless of what headgaskets are used.
Donut media would probably have something negative to say about IAG and how they assume something is weak, or lacking or having weak links or assuming something better that could have been done as if there is no amazing research and development made by the leaders in Subaru engine builders. Then the followers follow these false assumptions passing on rumors to their naive followers when they don’t have the science backed knowledge and experience to back up their false assumptions.
I laugh when I see people taking 1000 miles to break an engine in. Its not the 1980s. The point of breaking in a engine is to wear the piston rings into the bores to create good compression. That's it. It takes approximately 50 miles or an hour of driving. Then you do a oil change and then its tuning/mapping time. My engine builder who has been building engines since the 80s and subaru engines since 2002 has been doing it this way since the beginning.
This is absolutely how you do it! I race cars and this is how we break in engines, 50 miles. I also laugh at some tuners telling owners to take 1500 miles ha ha most people it's there 2nd car, weekend toy to blast or track car and 1500 miles would take weeks and weeks even into months. 50 miles on a engine dyno, fit in car then tune. Job done
@@craiga631I’d assume they just say this simply to protect themselves. I was watching thinking how tf im gonna do 2500kms to break in the car when it’s unregistered needing to pass an inspection. I can’t get it inspected until it’s broken in. I can get a day pass, etc. but 2500kms is like a whole year of driving my Wrx.
I have a 2021 WRX that is getting a IAG600 will my shop already know this? They have to dyno tune it because I have other parts on the car, is this alright?
Very curious - why would there be metal shavings during the break-in process? Are you saying the engine is supposed to disintegrate a little by design? I thought metal shavings normally happen when you don't change your oil a long time and that friction breaks down the moving parts of the engine.
the metal shavings they are refering to is more like extremely fine grains of sand except metal, and this comes from the bearings, pistons rings, cylinder walls moving head compnets etc, wearing in to there final tolarances. all engines will wear (not disintergrate) as a byproduct from just operating from day 1. The metal shavings you are thinking of are byproduct of a spun bearing or something else that sized due to lack of oil, and that's completely different that what they mean. As far as why 750 miles I guess that what there testing has shown to be where everything has finally loosened up to spec.
because when all the engine parts are machined no matter how precise it is there is always going to be a tiny amount of interference once everything is put together, and it take actual operation of the engine for everything to settle into place, so to speak. those "metal shavings" are just tiny bits of metal that are getting ground off as everything starts operating. it should stop once break in is complete, and then after that there should be none (unless something breaks of course) except for super tiny little particles that are normal part of regular wear and tear.
Modern ring packages are low tension hard faced coated and will not wear into the cylinder, the all important part is the bore finish if your engine seems to use oil its time to take it back out and find a machine shop who can properly finish those bores, if the engine is done right you can beat the shit out of it and it will hurt nothing, these are not the old soft plasma rings of the past, sorry guys no break in necessary..
Watched 2 seconds of the video and thought to myself. Here I am with a sloppy 1.8t build with questionable tolerance and a gt3076 at 30psi of boost. Bouncing off the Rev limiter anti lagging lighting tires. On a fresh "rebuild" with only 10 minutes of idle time LMAO. It still runs even after I sold it. Like 40k? Since it's slapped together build
FYI, the ONLY part of an engine that "breaks-in" is the piston ring sealing with the bores. Thats it. Vary the load on the first 25 miles and you be good. WIth the piston travel speeds and average hone grit depth, it doesnt take long to seal with rings. Gaskets, seals, valves, bearings, chains, hoses etc do not break-in
from all ive ever heard or did, is to pack your oil pump with Vaseline and to never prefill oil filter on first start up because it can cause the pump to cavate
Interesting to see you guys cut the original break in period in half! Assuming the research had everything to do with that. Great video.
I broke in my stage 2.5 to 1,800 miles this time just because. I also just learned that we have looser tolerances for pistons for higher power so I can hear the piston slap on warm up so that’s normal don’t be scared if you hear it. My STI is on 40 lbs of boost and I finally finished tuning.
The looser piston tolerances are due to using forged pistons. Cast pistons don’t expand near as much when they heat up, that’s why you don’t hear it in a stock engine. Forged pistons expand much more do to heat so they have to size the cylinder bore larger for when they are at operating temp, this is the cause of piston slap on cold starts, by using offset wrist pins you can minimize piston slap, but it’s no big deal really
Just built my own engine and been doing the break in procedure it’s there but barely noticeable but thank for the info
man that wrx looks amazing
I found it very helpful as I’m nearing an engine swap on my 2016 wrx. With a 142,000 miles it’s almost that time after I had a cam gear failure
With the motor removed to do the repair might as well swap it instead of paying for 2 engine removals
After the 50 miles are you OK to get into a little bit of boost? Maybe 5-7 psi?
Perfect timing im mid engine build due in about next year of april, really helpful
Good timing!
What do you do when it's a race car? I usually install the motor and send it to the dyno.
Great video :) Looking forward to more info on the built FA24 :)
Thanks for the feedback!
If you follow these steps... how did you fill the cooling system and engine passages with coolant?
For the first heat cycle, it's important to use a no-spill funnel to bleed the system from the highest point. This is usually the coolant expansion tank. Once you turn off the engine, wait for the coolant to cool off before removing the funnel. Make sure to check your coolant levels when the car has cooled off every time you change the oil, and add more coolant if necessary.
Awesome video Foster!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Can we have a full overview of all the aesthetic mods on the car 🙏🏼
There are several older videos showing us painting the fender flares: th-cam.com/video/ruUBrxP6utc/w-d-xo.html
@@theiagchannel ok
Looking foward to do this on the new to me 08 sti
I can either buy a stock r35 gtr here in my country or a 950hp shortblock build and its hard to choose
as an sti owner I would get the gtr
GTR forsure lol
Yea dude, go with the GTR. Only get the 950hp subaru if you are willing to choose *wrong* because your heart says so :D
950hp is for those that want it. Not sure? Dont commit.
If I had that option in my country, R35 for sureee. A 950hp build is still probably 50k USD cheaper than a used stock R35 for me
Hey guys does this process apply to brand new cars from the factory too? I'm gonna be taking delivery of a 2024 BRZ soon and I want to treat it right. 🙏
I thought you were supposed to leave the spark plugs out first to circulate oil? seems like a very good idea
I've got an engines that run on M5. They get idled up to temp and then start doing full throttle pulls on the dyno.
Was waiting for this vid for a long time have a big Faith jn the fa24 wanna have an fa24 sg9 Forester and a Subaru legacy 3.0r manual specb jdm perfect duo
any updates on this built FA24DIT motor with dyno pulls
Great info!
Hey IAG fam , any idea when you will release an update on this?
Keep an eye out in the coming months!
I have Millers break in oil, But for the first startup I wanna use a mineral oil with ZDDP additive as I will be flushing it out after idling for 5-10 mins. Can I use "MOTUL 3000 4T Plus 10w-40HC-TECH Mineral Engine Oil" for the first 10 mins?
Any plans for an FA24 brz/gr86 built engine?
It is on our radar!
Wait!? Wasn’t Foster with SubiSpeed? 🤔
I was until June, then I left to come work for IAG 😁
@@FosterJohnsonMedia cool!
Welcome to IAG! Love their products 👍🏾
Subispeed shit the bed.
Would this build fit into a GR86 running it NA or with an aftermarket super or turbo charger?
What year is that Subaru???
This is a 2022!
@1.42 is that crank walk?
How much would something like this cost? I know In the future I will need this.
Shoot us an email to sales@iagperformance.com and we can talk about a built!
When can we see dyno results?
Curious, im build race engines in a different non automotive industry, we always recommend to change spark plus fairly quickly do to metal contamination from break in, do you guys not encounter that issue?
Fresh set up plugs on install is recommended but no need to change until its normal interval!
any updates on this build?
Please advise. The service that customizes my car recommended me not to warm up the engine. They said that I should start the engine and wait for a maximum of one minute and start driving smoothly. Do you think this makes sense? Because I doubt very much that it can be useful for a new engine.
Is the engine stock? This break-in procedure is for our built engines. Otherwise, we recommended following the manufacturer's break-in and warm-up procedures.
Curious on the dyne results
dyno
Is there a link to the break-in manual for race car setups?
www.iagperformance.com/content/documents/Engine-After-Sale-Shipping-Doc.pdf
Seems like the ticket to engine break-in is drive spirited but stay under 4k rpm and do not go into high boost. Let the engine warm up before going ham. Change the oil early. Simple
It has been 6 months now........... any updates?
Gonna follow this breakin guide but for 1k minimum on my (soon to be) built Mazdaspeed 3
I was told of a very specific engine break-in process by a nice guy that worked at Toyota on all of their race engines from the 1990's to the time where I met him around 2010. That process is as follows:
Mile 0
Break-in oil and new filter. Start the engine and get it to operating temperature. Make sure there are no leaks.
Mile 0-500
Break-in oil and new filter. 4000rpm max. No boost. No cruise control. No excessive idling. Change gears every 90 seconds. Engine braking (downshift) whenever possible. Oil consumption will occur.
Mile 501-1500
Break-in oil and new filter. 4500rpm max. Minimal boost (1-3psi). No cruise control. No excessive idling. Change gears every 90 seconds. Engine braking (downshift) whenever possible. Oil consumption will occur.
Mile 1501-3000
Break-in oil and new filter. 5000rpm max. Minimal boost (4-7psi). No cruise control. No excessive idling. Change gears every 90 seconds. Engine braking (downshift) whenever possible. Oil consumption will occur.
Mile 3001 and after
Run whichever oil & filter you prefer.
I followed this process and my ej255 has been untouched since this process was completed. It has been over 100,000 miles since the time that process was completed and I have no oil consumption issues. I'm running stock boost levels, and it was performed on a OEM complete block with no modifications done - some parts were changed (ARP head studs, Cometic MLS head gaskets, KillerB oil pickup). The Subaru specialist shop that did the engine swap detailed the same process.
As per the oil, choose whichever break-in oil you are comfortable with. As per the filter, OEM filters are trash - most of the damage occurs from particles in the 20 micron and smaller range. With that in mind, Royal Purple, AMSOil and the Fram Ultra Synthetic are the best oil filters on the market (unless you opt for a bypass kit).
This process was completed on my Toyota Mr2 and it was an incredibly rev happy engine (redline of 7200rpm) and it had no oil consumption issues either.
Does this process require an incredible amount of patience? Yes, it absolutely does. Is it worth it? Absolutely!
Lol race engines. There's no race car in the world that puts more than 50 miles on the engine before being beat on.
@@juliusschreck613 You have an opinion. Good for you.
I'll stick by the word of someone that actually worked on Toyota's racing engines for over a decade.
What ended happening with this build??
Could I flat foot prime an Ej?
With EJs you can disconnect the crank position sensor instead
keep your work
Is there a reason that you guys recommend the oem head gasket for break in? And why does using an alternative void warranty for the block?
The FA24 is using our prototype FA firelock headgasket. This break-in process is the same for all our engine builds regardless of what headgaskets are used.
Someone send this to donut media
Donut media would probably have something negative to say about IAG and how they assume something is weak, or lacking or having weak links or assuming something better that could have been done as if there is no amazing research and development made by the leaders in Subaru engine builders. Then the followers follow these false assumptions passing on rumors to their naive followers when they don’t have the science backed knowledge and experience to back up their false assumptions.
True. Go ND!
Here in the Caribbean we do it different
What's your procedures bro?
What's your procedures bro?
Has this process been validated by an automotive Engineer?
Yes, our engineering staff has approved this process
I laugh when I see people taking 1000 miles to break an engine in. Its not the 1980s. The point of breaking in a engine is to wear the piston rings into the bores to create good compression. That's it. It takes approximately 50 miles or an hour of driving. Then you do a oil change and then its tuning/mapping time.
My engine builder who has been building engines since the 80s and subaru engines since 2002 has been doing it this way since the beginning.
This is absolutely how you do it! I race cars and this is how we break in engines, 50 miles. I also laugh at some tuners telling owners to take 1500 miles ha ha most people it's there 2nd car, weekend toy to blast or track car and 1500 miles would take weeks and weeks even into months. 50 miles on a engine dyno, fit in car then tune. Job done
@@craiga631I’d assume they just say this simply to protect themselves. I was watching thinking how tf im gonna do 2500kms to break in the car when it’s unregistered needing to pass an inspection. I can’t get it inspected until it’s broken in. I can get a day pass, etc. but 2500kms is like a whole year of driving my Wrx.
same with mine. Break in on the dyno, change oil, and tune. then just change the oil again after a bit to synthetic
That's how young people are now. Notice how many young people on TH-cam telling experienced people how it's done. Lol.
Pre filling a oil filter is so dumb, like what happens if I fill my oil without putting the oil filter on
Foster is with IAG now? Subiespeed must be going down hill.
You can prelube the filter by holding down the accelerator and Turing the car on.
Do I really need to do that in highway
But manual said 100 mph 4,500 rpm
But highway speed 65 mph I am worried getting pulled over by police again
huh
I have a 2021 WRX that is getting a IAG600 will my shop already know this? They have to dyno tune it because I have other parts on the car, is this alright?
They should be, but feel free to show them this video just in case.
@@theiagchannel Can I get a dyno tune with a new shortblock? Or should I get a tune just so I can drive it to break it in then get it dyno'd?
I blew up tons of motors and finally built it correct and i put over 80 thousand miles on the rebuild, just do stuff the right way no shortcuts
Damn, that top mount is nearly flat
What about motorcycles
Do you guys install engines if buy the engine from you guys. And send you my car. I'm in Washington state.
Very curious - why would there be metal shavings during the break-in process? Are you saying the engine is supposed to disintegrate a little by design? I thought metal shavings normally happen when you don't change your oil a long time and that friction breaks down the moving parts of the engine.
And I hear different number of miles for the break-in period. Would you also expand on the 750 miles and where that number is from?
the metal shavings they are refering to is more like extremely fine grains of sand except metal, and this comes from the bearings, pistons rings, cylinder walls moving head compnets etc, wearing in to there final tolarances. all engines will wear (not disintergrate) as a byproduct from just operating from day 1. The metal shavings you are thinking of are byproduct of a spun bearing or something else that sized due to lack of oil, and that's completely different that what they mean. As far as why 750 miles I guess that what there testing has shown to be where everything has finally loosened up to spec.
because when all the engine parts are machined no matter how precise it is there is always going to be a tiny amount of interference once everything is put together, and it take actual operation of the engine for everything to settle into place, so to speak. those "metal shavings" are just tiny bits of metal that are getting ground off as everything starts operating. it should stop once break in is complete, and then after that there should be none (unless something breaks of course) except for super tiny little particles that are normal part of regular wear and tear.
Modern ring packages are low tension hard faced coated and will not wear into the cylinder, the all important part is the bore finish if your engine seems to use oil its time to take it back out and find a machine shop who can properly finish those bores, if the engine is done right you can beat the shit out of it and it will hurt nothing, these are not the old soft plasma rings of the past, sorry guys no break in necessary..
Watched 2 seconds of the video and thought to myself. Here I am with a sloppy 1.8t build with questionable tolerance and a gt3076 at 30psi of boost. Bouncing off the Rev limiter anti lagging lighting tires. On a fresh "rebuild" with only 10 minutes of idle time LMAO. It still runs even after I sold it. Like 40k? Since it's slapped together build
20mins and the motors go from >40% leakdown to
Just drive it as you would lol😅.
The break in: seating the rings. Literally can be done in one heat cycle.
Cant wait to see what you are able to do with the FA24dit platform. I am ready for a 8.5k ripperrrrrr
it will be a ripper for sure!
Wowwww
only 30 psi fuel 35 is legal
FYI, the ONLY part of an engine that "breaks-in" is the piston ring sealing with the bores. Thats it. Vary the load on the first 25 miles and you be good. WIth the piston travel speeds and average hone grit depth, it doesnt take long to seal with rings.
Gaskets, seals, valves, bearings, chains, hoses etc do not break-in
Just got my IAG 600 installed! With grimspeed headers. Sounds 🍆💦
from all ive ever heard or did, is to pack your oil pump with Vaseline and to never prefill oil filter on first start up because it can cause the pump to cavate
From what you heard... 😅
That is how a Subaru should look
Dislike button for all the guys who actually know how to properly breakin an engine ->
I don’t understand, I thought this was regular procedure for break-in? What did he do wrong?
no way yall back manual? six gears hmmmm? can i stop? mmmmmm?
I read not let the engine idle ,since the first start 20 minutes at 2500 rpms