You say to test the insulated brush holder. WHICH ONE IS THAT? What is the position of the insulated brush holder versus the position of the brush cup assembly on the main body of the starter? I assume from the way you tested, that the one OPPOSITE the first brush holder you tested, is the 2nd insulated brush holder, that is, they alternate with one insulated, the next one live, the next insulated, and the next one live. is that correct? NOW, starting from the heavy terminal connection on the starter case, which one is supposed to be the insulated brush holder? You whipped through the disassembly WAY TOO FAST to keep up with what you are doing. I had to rerun the video 4 times just to establish that the field coil wire ends are both on the BOTTOM of the starter when the brush cover is removed. Thanks! Bill
Next question is where and how do you connect the field coil wires? You put the brushes in, but you never mention the field coil wires. Where are the field coil wires supposed to attach? Do they attach to the inside of the brush cap? Where? Thanks! Bill
I spoke with Nick yesterday and he suggest that you just give him a call at (719) 250-2991. You may need to leave a message as he is working on a project and may not be able to answer right away. I would also suggest that you get a copy of the MTFCA Manual www.snydersantiqueauto.com/ProductDetail/BT-E_THE-ELECTRICAL-SYSTEM-BOOK?fromCategory=Products/books/model-t-books .
Just watched your video. What I would like to know, what happened to the small end spacer bushing after the seal? You didn't ream it out or show you installed it. Does it not have to be there as it also has a spacer on it. You can't just install the seal without that end bushing. Am I missing something here? Please help. PaulB
Wow! Thank you. I have a quick question. My starter works great, but it leaks oil. I'm told that's due to needing new bushings. Can you tell me what bushings prevent the oil from seeing into the field? Thanks!
I think the bushings you are looking for are available from the vendors. Check out part numbers T-5105, T-5106 and maybe a total solution T-5105-SEAL and T-5105SK from www.snydersantiqueauto.com/search?attr15=17&attrYear=&pn=search&t=&q=starter+bushings . I am sure that Lang's and other vendors will have the same parts. Thanks for taking the time to comment and ask questions on our videos.
@@modelt-tips6985 they do. You can get a left or right wound field coil which will change the rotation of the starter. We swapped ours to correct the battery...or make negative ground.
Oh no! You can buy a new one for less thank $500. I have started using this one from Snyder's ( www.snydersantiqueauto.com/product.htm?pid=982405&cat=41905 ). By the time you ship a core to them and pay for a replacement, you can get this new modern version and skip the bendix issues. Thanks for your comment.
Thanks for all the Great info. 👍
Thank you Nick, just working on my starter and it's the first time I've worked on one like this so any advice is welcome.
Thanks again, PaulB
great video, wonderful way to pass down information to younger gen. just one thing, I'm tired of tootsie
Sorry that tootsie gets you down... but, when you hear it you know it must be about Model Ts! Ha!
Great video! Very clear on the necessary steps!
Mr Nickolas - what is the thickness of the bushing in front of the bearing ?
Great video. Thanks for your time and effort.
Gordon Reeder thanks for taking the time to comment.
dont know why Henry didn't use a bushing instead of Babbitt bearing or was Edsel to blame? good video.
Thanks
You say to test the insulated brush holder.
WHICH ONE IS THAT? What is the position of the insulated brush holder versus the position of the brush cup assembly on the main body of the starter? I assume from the way you tested, that the one OPPOSITE the first brush holder you tested, is the 2nd insulated brush holder, that is, they alternate with one insulated, the next one live, the next insulated, and the next one live. is that correct? NOW, starting from the heavy terminal connection on the starter case, which one is supposed to be the insulated brush holder? You whipped through the disassembly WAY TOO FAST to keep up with what you are doing. I had to rerun the video 4 times just to establish that the field coil wire ends are both on the BOTTOM of the starter when the brush cover is removed.
Thanks!
Bill
Next question is where and how do you connect the field coil wires? You put the brushes in, but you never mention the field coil wires. Where are the field coil wires supposed to attach? Do they attach to the inside of the brush cap? Where?
Thanks!
Bill
I spoke with Nick yesterday and he suggest that you just give him a call at (719) 250-2991. You may need to leave a message as he is working on a project and may not be able to answer right away. I would also suggest that you get a copy of the MTFCA Manual www.snydersantiqueauto.com/ProductDetail/BT-E_THE-ELECTRICAL-SYSTEM-BOOK?fromCategory=Products/books/model-t-books .
Nick you failed to point out what field wire goes on which brush, I'm sure the field wire goes on the non grounded brush, right
Just watched your video. What I would like to know, what happened to the small end spacer bushing after the seal? You didn't ream it out or show you installed it. Does it not have to be there as it also has a spacer on it. You can't just install the seal without that end bushing. Am I missing something here? Please help.
PaulB
Wow! Thank you. I have a quick question. My starter works great, but it leaks oil. I'm told that's due to needing new bushings. Can you tell me what bushings prevent the oil from seeing into the field? Thanks!
I think the bushings you are looking for are available from the vendors. Check out part numbers T-5105, T-5106 and maybe a total solution T-5105-SEAL and T-5105SK from www.snydersantiqueauto.com/search?attr15=17&attrYear=&pn=search&t=&q=starter+bushings . I am sure that Lang's and other vendors will have the same parts.
Thanks for taking the time to comment and ask questions on our videos.
Excellant ! rebuild starter the easy part now to install without busting mag coils oh ugg;
samuel pine Thanks for taking the time to comment. Hope you don’t have any problems with the installation!
I have. A starter that's positive ground...can I switch out the field coil for a negative ground? Do they swap?
I don't think so... but, I am not real knowledgeable on that subject.
@@modelt-tips6985 they do. You can get a left or right wound field coil which will change the rotation of the starter. We swapped ours to correct the battery...or make negative ground.
How much is a starter overhauled like this $1500 ??
Oh no! You can buy a new one for less thank $500. I have started using this one from Snyder's ( www.snydersantiqueauto.com/product.htm?pid=982405&cat=41905 ). By the time you ship a core to them and pay for a replacement, you can get this new modern version and skip the bendix issues.
Thanks for your comment.
I have to agree on to much Tootsie !!
Sorry you don't like Tootsie... it is our "theme" song some like some don't. Skip buy the intro!