dam you never fail to surprise me with your ingenuity. The tool you fabricated is GENIUS! They say "Necessity is the mother of invention" and this is an example of that for sure.
Suggestion: when attaching two dissimilar metals like the steel bolts into the aluminum housing of your two speed unit, always put some anti-seize on the threads or they will gall and you'll have the same problem again.
@@jmuller86 your frame of your international is clean/rust free. So I guess you don't drive it much during the winter. I will ask my dad about the 2 sd rear end. He had several of those trucks, plus he sold a bunch of them. He may know how to fix the international.
Great video Jesse. Man, there is a lot going on in this video. That Freightliner is practically new. $4000 looks like a steal. As far as selling the International, when you get the new truck up and running, keep the Int'l for a season and see how much you use it or need it. Very impressed with the mechanic work you do!
Imagine having a buddy like Jesse when you bought your first junker car that had a different issue every week? Jesse is the real deal. Been enjoying these last few repair vids! Thanks for taking us along. I’m one of those home mechanics that first thing I check when I have an issue is the blinker fluid
Based on the 500K miles on the truck I expect that the planetary gears in the rear are worn out. If the previous owners or operators didn't know how to properly shift it they probably were grinding the gears. They planetary gear engages when you select the low range. They are probably causing it to pop out of low. I'm fairly confident your problem is in the differential. I hope this helps.
Jesse you don't put out a lot of videos but when you do they are gems. It's so interesting watching you tackle a project. Keep the truck, don't give up on it. Well done Jesse I wish I had your energy.
Jesse you have too much slop in the the ring and pinion that swap causes the two speed to move back and forth cuz the two speed also probably has a little wear in it inside the ring and pinion and this is why it pops out of low great video
These old school trucks are worth their weight in Gold. Everything is simple and fixable. Parts are rather cheap and can be found very cheap used or in salvage yards.
The only difficulty in NYS is that older trucks tend to get neglected and rot out within 20-30 years. Depending on who owned it and took care of the truck they can last a long time. You dont see many older trucks in NY often unless they are from out of state. But, you are correct. I'm 21 and I love the older "simple" vehicles and equipment since I can understand it.
@@adamcase3157 best way to keep the rot at bay is to spray the vehicle down with fluid film. Soak everything down underneath and in the engine bay. Of course not the brakes and components like the belts, alternator or exhaust.
@@alouisschafer7212 Correct! Since its been snowing a lot recently I see tons of vehicles with sand, calcium [I think] (liquid salt), salt covered. Only a small group will thoroughly wash after a storm. Once I purchase a pick up I'm going to fluid film as much as I can
Good Morning Jesse, Another great video! You have a knack for finding a problem and following it back to the root cause. In today's example, you are getting out in front of the potential problem of what can happen north of 1200 degrees with the installation of the EGT & boost gauges. Nice to see you turn up the fuel too! You do a great job! Thank You!
To test the rear end hi/low mechanism, I would remove the electronic box, weld a small piece to housing to hold the shifter in hi or low position, drive it around see if it holds the gear, if it does than the problem is the electronic board in the shifter box, if it doesn't stay in gear, than the problem obviously is in the differential gears.
From the sounds of it... I am no mechanic or specialist... but its definitely a mechanical problem. You can hear in the video once that rear is under a good amount of TORQUE it pops out.
Dam when I first bought my 05 f450 I was putting 6 tons of gravel on it. That's incredible 6.5 tons on that international. Wow! And it was cool to see all u did to the good ol girl. Lots less crap to deal with on those older trucks. Thanks for sharing!!!
I know from personal experience how difficult it can be to work in uncomfortable, cramped, tight spaces, which makes it all the more amazing that you are able to capture those great video clips to share with the world. I also know how much more planning, time, effort, and countless hours of editing it takes to capture those awesome video clips, which is a level of effort that very few content creators are willing to do. Your work on this channel is simply genius and definitely rises above the crowd.Many thanks for doing this herculean task for the rest of us!
Honestly, I don't know why I read the comments, (this is one of the few channels where I do) because I know next to NOTHING about thingamajig limiters and the like, BUT I do enjoy and appreciate your methodical approach to problem solving. And, to my untrained brain, I think your vids have improved immeasurably. I enjoy watching them, the comments and look forward to your working on the new truck. Nice job, Sir.
Great job we used to boost them and add a Propane injection for extremely tough pulls. I would recommend a one of those bearing buddies. It would put pressurized oil in the turbo at shut down or if you stall it when hot. The manifold and exhaust tend to glow red at night on those hard pulls. Really enjoy your content 👍
Never shut a vehicle off when its hot is what I learned and yeah its true. How much would that propane injection do to boost power and how does it affect the engine?
Bud,pyro sensor needs to go after the turbo on the exhaust side,all you're basically doing is the temp at the cylinder its installed opposite too,also that air cleaner restriction gauge(what's left of it) sucks on the clean side.....if it's open to atmosphere it will ,or has been sucking dirty/dusty air,maybe the motor is just dusted. DT466's had a habit of snapping at the end of the crankshaft to the flywheel, the later DT466B's defined that the crankshaft was better machined with a increased radius curve at the flywheel to crank. If it's not a "B",we use to call them turning time bombs! Good luck!!
Just a note your EGT set-up is only monitoring the front three cylinders, which usually run a tad cooler. To monitor both back and front cylinders you would require two sensors. That said the EGT set-up you have should give you a good general reading. Cheers
I really do enjoy watching you do maintenance work on vehicles 🚗 Jesse, it’s also really cool that you can (like Mr Andrew Camarata) do these things and only have to pay for parts, well done and I will look forward to seeing with you do next.
Jesse, my dad had a lot of dump trucks with the Eaton Two speed. A 1951 Ford F6 with a vacuum shift. A 1953 Ford F600 the first electric shift. A 1962 Dodge D600 electric shift. The Dodge did the grinding racheting noise problem but never went in between hi/lo like yours. If I can remember right the problem areas are too much play in the ring and pinion gear backlash. And you will have to get a motors truck manual and look at the workings of the 2 speed. Of course try to find a good truck mechanic with experience on these on line or in person. You did the right first steps with the electrics. Here"s a good vid to look at th-cam.com/video/pOvy3SnKyJ0/w-d-xo.html
thanks, I am pretty sure the problem is in one of the forks/gears. I cant believe how much research I did on the rear and I didnt find this video. and you found it instantly lol
Man... LOVED the vid! I truly enjoy your stuff! Love fact that you explain things in simplistic way. Thank you for taking us along, my friend. Already anticipating the next video!
Till the shop is up, your backside is the shop. I hated it too. The rear end.... the shift fork on the inside of the rear end and part that sticks out behind the shift motor sets in a brass bushing top and bottom on most but they do very a bit on just how they make the shift. Those bushings most likely the lower one on the inside is worn out and lets it climb out.... one of the two points will be bad worn and needs to be replaced. I haven't done one in over forty years so its hard to describe it well. Also in the rear end itself it has a shift collar that goes high/low... it looks like a sincro out of a transmission and works the same way to make it synchronized other wise like before all that and back in the forties it was straight cut and had to really have the rpms just right to make it work well. We used to take the electric or vacuum motor off and make a lever that would manually shift the gears which was fine as a kid cause it was one more lever. Personally those transmissions in either truck are a waste of money. A nine, ten or thirteen speed would be much more to the advantage point. I don't know if one rear end from the flatbed repair/parts truck will slip in but once inside of it by just taking the center section out, it will explain in black and white why the other is jumping out of gear.... what makes them wear like that is the bearings are too small for the job. Unless someone gives you plenty for the old truck, keep it till you know whats what with the new one. Parts and pieces should be everywhere for the older trucks laid up/retired. I personally if it were me go with a thirteen speed, and single speed rear end. Keep away from dayton wheels and stick with the budd rims like you have now.
Looking forward to your next video, Jesse...sorry that you could not fix the issue with the international, but hoping with some help and ideas from some gear heads here online that you can get it all taken care of at some point. Would be nice to keep it around, BUT if you choose not to, selling it would be a good idea, AFTER you get the reas end issue taken care of. always learning something from you, thank you for sharing.
Wanted to mention something I noticed on your truck. might want to replace the busted air filter restriction indicator on your intake tube. I have heard of them letting dust in after filter which could be harmful to your engine. Great video love the content!
Really enjoyed the video. The tool you made reminds me of my Dad. He was a shade tree mechanic when he got off work. He would make his own tools if it took something he didn't have. Keep it up.
Not sure how precise the EGT reading has to be but your probe looks like it's sitting on the other side of the manifold. The tip should be center of the pipe. Love your videos thanks for great content.
The 8.3 cummins is a good motor. I have one in my motorhome. And love it...Good luck on that rear. Sometimes they can be a Royal pain inthe ass getting them figured out when they start acting up
Have you changed that electric stepper motor yet. I had this chevy truck that wouldn't stay in 4 high. It needed a new stepper (encoder) motor. When the motor got warm the high resistance wouldn't hold the motor in gear. New encoder motor fixed it. I know it's not a transfer case but that setup reminds me of the way a transfer case works. Good luck, can't wait to see the track loader running!
Did you find a better deal than his? Wow. Tell us about it. It would be interesting to those of us looking. I have every machine I need except a small dump truck.
You are a jack of all trades & master of many, Jesse! So amazing! Did you by chance go to mechanics school? You are so knowledgeable. You remind me of my dad many, many years ago. Of course, schooling wasn’t even heard of back then. I don’t really know how he learned. We love watching your channel. Thank you & God bless.
Get a NOS kit and supercharger, bigger jets and massive hood scoop 👌, I found a good tip for drilling and tapping manifolds, put small powerful neodymium magnets on the drill and tap to capture all swarf and debris
That international is clean , I didn't see any rust when you were underneath it. And Congratulations on the new whip👍, try to keep it as long as you can because after you get rid of it you'll see just how much you needed it, I say that from experience 🤦. But don't get me wrong, if you can get a good chunk of change from it then it might be best . Check the barter ads too sometimes you can come up with something else you need more than an extra truck. 👍
Back in the day people would remove the anaroyd pipe remove the fitting on the pump,they would install a zerk fitting and pump grease to keep the rack at full travel and it worked LOL
Jesse, I don’t know anything mechanical or have any skills but I enjoy your videos and hope you keep making them. You have good analytical skills and you do interesting projects.
Thanks for showing how to work on the injection pump. I have the same truck (‘92 international 4700 with a DTA 360) grossly underpowered, but I will try this! It’s a synchronized 6 speed manual, so I’m no help on the two speed rear end..
I have a international s1700, DT360. After sitting for more than a couple hours it won’t start without ether. I’m in the process of changing all the fuel lines thinking it’s getting air in the system and bleeding back. Once I get that figured out I’m definitely going to make the same adjustments you did with the fuel because it’s just a dog right now. Also having some issues with the rear end, heck I’m not even sure if it’s going into high or low, it seems like it’s really winding out at 55 so maybe it’s stuck in low. Thanks for the video, it’s nice to be able to relate to the stuff you’re working on.
Ed here, my international tractors would do this when the pump got weak, had to get pumps rebuilt. dont like ether too much, sometimes rattle the valves with it. sometimes weak batteries wont turn the engine fast enough to pump up the injectors.
@@patriciareynolds2729 Hi Ed. Thanks for the reply. After replacing all the fuel lines and injector seals it seems much better. I wouldn’t say perfect but better. After a couple days sitting it’ll still take 10 seconds or a little more to fire off. I don’t doubt the pump is probably getting weak too. It’s got a lot of miles on it.
When you are drilling the manifold, cold start the engine while drilling. The exhaust pressure will blow out the shaving from the drill bit. Pack the tap with geese.
Jesse, great video! Impressed by the methodical and thoughtful process of elimination for getting to the issues. Well done! It makes me cringe and yell at the computer to watch Andrew change a starter on the Cat.
I have zero interest in cats but it's entertaining to watch Andrew get stuff done... The way everyone wishes they could do it but are too afraid too. Lol
Love this little truck. Kinda want to say that before grinding started, shoulda opened up the rear end to find out why it was out of spec. That might open a whole nother snake nest though... might just end up being a 5 speed lol
Every time I watch one of his videos I get inspired to buy old things, tear them apart, and to make them right again or better! Now... to just do all of those things... :)
@@jmuller86 = We do rebuild a few things here or there. I can't wait to retire and grab some land up north... This was our build... My son's first... th-cam.com/video/Gx2dEZ_O1Q8/w-d-xo.html
When we used to get air leaks on the fuel system we used to gob grease over each of the pipe fittings over the course of a few days until we fixed the air leak. The grease will seal the fuel lines for long enough to locate the problem. This for the suction lines, obvs.
With 6,300 hrs, I suspect the Freightliner has a lot more than 55,000 miles on it. For stationary machines we always compared hours to mileage by figuring it at 40 mph which would be 252,000 miles. At 20 mph that would be 126,000 miles.
Previous owner could have just idled the truck a lot. Could’ve spent a lot of time waiting to be loaded and waiting to unload. I see this with a lot of pool companies. They idle all day, but get loaded up and drive just a few miles away to dump the dirt, come back, and wait for their turn to be loaded.
Love yur videos. U & Andrew are 2Kings of property maint. & equipment fix-up. But u, a master electrician & res/crmcl.builder add more interest. Now A. just got a tilt bucket..can u jump up & get a tilt/rotator/finger grab tool like Headblom? He is in Sweeden, so u will report soil/rock proportions for effectiveness in your/Andrew's area. Love yur/A's work & especially attitude toward work! Both of u reflect best of American values. Hats off & salute!
Jesse if you only had 8psi of boost you should pressure test your turbo piping and charge air cooler. Might be losing boost between turbo and intake manifold.
Old style 2 speed was a spring that was cocked and tripped for a more positive shift by popping the foot feed. There was no geared wheel that rotates. It was a screw shaft design.
From the standpoint of a machinist, I would suggest that the shape of the gear-teeth in the rear end have changed, possibly from low oil levels, wear, etc. It is my understanding that the shape of the teeth is what helps gears stay meshed when under load, and you changing load values while driving causing it to malfunction, seems indicative. I think you will find deformed teeth (from wear, etc) inside the rear end. I've watched a bunch of your videos. Thanks for being so informative.
he planetary gears are with a brass shafts or pins that's what wore and will not stay aligned when it in low gear. Drain the oil and have it tested and lock for brass particle. Hope this help
Amazing fabrication work there! Not sure someone else has suggested this but fellow TH-camr J.C. SMITH PROJECTS might be able to help you with the International's rear issues. He specializes in restoring and fabricating big trucks. Thanks for the video!
I see where everyone beat me with the grease on the drill & tap trick, how bout getting a donut magnet to drill through. Works great, whenever I drill inside an existing electrical panel that is either live or not easily cleaned out I use one and it catches everything.
Something kinda funny is. I think the Bose that is right below where he mounted the egt probe is actually for a egt probe lol. There is one on each side right where you would normally have them. It was prob to tight of a spot to drill with out taking the turbo back off. Not that it matters. It would just be less likely to crack since there is more material.
Am I assuming correctly you lived a former life as a heavy equipment mechanic? Sure seems like you know a lot more than TH-cam has to offer! Great video; good luck with the new truck!
Internationals are great trucks. If I were you I’d get one 1984 for newer dt466 ( have the inline pumps up to 1993 I think) and just look for one with a 10-speed trans. My dad and I always had two speed rears then get one with 10-speed. Then got two more with 10,s. Once you got that route you’ll realize it’s a totally different truck. Still not the fastest truck in the world but definitely reliable. Just be careful with that weight having no jake brake - that is the only thing I have bad to say about an s-series. Plus pulling a trailer that large will be hard on the main box with all that weight.
Maybe Andrew could come over and whack it with his 10lb mall, crank in some self tapping nut driver screws, a few sheetmetal scraps and some sawdust to tighten the gap at the ring and pinion.
Your shift collar is probably rounded out which will allow it to slip out, or your shift fork is worn out where it slip into the slot on the sift collar. All of which requires removal of the third member.
I bought the parts to upgrade to a 5" exhaust system but I kind of got discouraged after not being able to fix the rear. then I got the FL70 and kind of gave up on the exhaust upgrade
The first thing I did with my 4700 was pitch the7.3 In the trap pile and installed a DT466E in it and love it. Now it's a great little truck.
Another "GREAT" video where you put your heart and soul into fault finding, Best wishes from the U/K.
dam you never fail to surprise me with your ingenuity. The tool you fabricated is GENIUS! They say "Necessity is the mother of invention" and this is an example of that for sure.
thanks. even though its only a 45 minute round trip to get parts, I can usually fab one up much quicker
@@jmuller86 well ive seen you use a couple diff tools you made specifically for something and im always like 😲 ...
Suggestion: when attaching two dissimilar metals like the steel bolts into the aluminum housing of your two speed unit, always put some anti-seize on the threads or they will gall and you'll have the same problem again.
When you drill and tap a hole like that if you pack the drill or tap with grease it will keep most of the shavings from going thru.
yea I have seen a few guys suggest that, its a good suggestion
@@jmuller86 Jesse did you start this video before you redid the tagalong trailer?
@@stevensaxon8888 yes
I did mine with engine running and grease. Idea was that it would blow any loose chips out. IDK, it survived anyway.
@@jmuller86 your frame of your international is clean/rust free. So I guess you don't drive it much during the winter. I will ask my dad about the 2 sd rear end. He had several of those trucks, plus he sold a bunch of them. He may know how to fix the international.
Great video Jesse. Man, there is a lot going on in this video. That Freightliner is practically new. $4000 looks like a steal. As far as selling the International, when you get the new truck up and running, keep the Int'l for a season and see how much you use it or need it. Very impressed with the mechanic work you do!
better too have n not need than too need n not have i would keep the corn binder
Imagine having a buddy like Jesse when you bought your first junker car that had a different issue every week? Jesse is the real deal. Been enjoying these last few repair vids! Thanks for taking us along. I’m one of those home mechanics that first thing I check when I have an issue is the blinker fluid
then the muffler bearing
don't forget the piston return springs
Based on the 500K miles on the truck I expect that the planetary gears in the rear are worn out. If the previous owners or operators didn't know how to properly shift it they probably were grinding the gears. They planetary gear engages when you select the low range. They are probably causing it to pop out of low. I'm fairly confident your problem is in the differential. I hope this helps.
I was thinking the same exact thing. One to menu slam shifts lol.
I bet this too.
Jesse you don't put out a lot of videos but when you do they are gems. It's so interesting watching you tackle a project. Keep the truck, don't give up on it. Well done Jesse I wish I had your energy.
Jesse you have too much slop in the the ring and pinion that swap causes the two speed to move back and forth cuz the two speed also probably has a little wear in it inside the ring and pinion and this is why it pops out of low great video
This is the problem for sure..
These old school trucks are worth their weight in Gold.
Everything is simple and fixable. Parts are rather cheap and can be found very cheap used or in salvage yards.
Cheere to Ben T. Don't tread on me!
@@dave_in_florida Thank you very much for appreciating the Flag.
I will change it now I have had it on here long enough.
The only difficulty in NYS is that older trucks tend to get neglected and rot out within 20-30 years. Depending on who owned it and took care of the truck they can last a long time. You dont see many older trucks in NY often unless they are from out of state. But, you are correct. I'm 21 and I love the older "simple" vehicles and equipment since I can understand it.
@@adamcase3157 best way to keep the rot at bay is to spray the vehicle down with fluid film.
Soak everything down underneath and in the engine bay. Of course not the brakes and components like the belts, alternator or exhaust.
@@alouisschafer7212 Correct! Since its been snowing a lot recently I see tons of vehicles with sand, calcium [I think] (liquid salt), salt covered. Only a small group will thoroughly wash after a storm. Once I purchase a pick up I'm going to fluid film as much as I can
Good work Jesse,
For the boot to blowout like that, it might be an indication of the vent for the diff being restricted.
Good Morning Jesse,
Another great video! You have a knack for finding a problem and following it back to the root cause. In today's example, you are getting out in front of the potential problem of what can happen north of 1200 degrees with the installation of the EGT & boost gauges. Nice to see you turn up the fuel too! You do a great job! Thank You!
Yes. JM is good at this. Reminds me of Watch Wes Work. Another great diagnostician.
What if your hauling heavy load uphill, the gauge pegs, do you stop & roll back, or burn up the pistons?
@@chadsimmons6347 shift it down a gear, higher rpms equals more flow and less heat
To test the rear end hi/low mechanism, I would remove the electronic box, weld a small piece to housing to hold the shifter in hi or low position, drive it around see if it holds the gear, if it does than the problem is the electronic board in the shifter box, if it doesn't stay in gear, than the problem obviously is in the differential gears.
From the sounds of it... I am no mechanic or specialist... but its definitely a mechanical problem. You can hear in the video once that rear is under a good amount of TORQUE it pops out.
Dam when I first bought my 05 f450 I was putting 6 tons of gravel on it. That's incredible 6.5 tons on that international. Wow! And it was cool to see all u did to the good ol girl. Lots less crap to deal with on those older trucks. Thanks for sharing!!!
Good troubleshooting!
Pausing to watch the sunset was great too. Sometimes it’s important to appreciate the simple things.
Another great tool fabricated by @Jesse! You should put some flat spots on the outer socket.
I know from personal experience how difficult it can be to work in uncomfortable, cramped, tight spaces, which makes it all the more amazing that you are able to capture those great video clips to share with the world. I also know how much more planning, time, effort, and countless hours of editing it takes to capture those awesome video clips, which is a level of effort that very few content creators are willing to do. Your work on this channel is simply genius and definitely rises above the crowd.Many thanks for doing this herculean task for the rest of us!
it is alot of work, you are right. thank you for recognizing that. I appreciate the good feedback
So much pain in trying to fix that rearend! I give you credit. I eagerly await those Freightliner videos. Love the channel.
Honestly, I don't know why I read the comments, (this is one of the few channels where I do) because I know next to NOTHING about thingamajig limiters and the like, BUT I do enjoy and appreciate your methodical approach to problem solving. And, to my untrained brain, I think your vids have improved immeasurably. I enjoy watching them, the comments and look forward to your working on the new truck. Nice job, Sir.
Great job we used to boost them and add a Propane injection for extremely tough pulls. I would recommend a one of those bearing buddies. It would put pressurized oil in the turbo at shut down or if you stall it when hot. The manifold and exhaust tend to glow red at night on those hard pulls.
Really enjoy your content 👍
Never shut a vehicle off when its hot is what I learned and yeah its true.
How much would that propane injection do to boost power and how does it affect the engine?
Great video Jesse. Man i love that 1990 international 4700 . but when you need to move up you move up. that is a nice Freightliner FL70. great video,
Bud,pyro sensor needs to go after the turbo on the exhaust side,all you're basically doing is the temp at the cylinder its installed opposite too,also that air cleaner restriction gauge(what's left of it) sucks on the clean side.....if it's open to atmosphere it will ,or has been sucking dirty/dusty air,maybe the motor is just dusted.
DT466's had a habit of snapping at the end of the crankshaft to the flywheel, the later DT466B's defined that the crankshaft was better machined with a increased radius curve at the flywheel to crank.
If it's not a "B",we use to call them turning time bombs!
Good luck!!
Putting the egt probe after the turbo is like wiping before you shit
Just a note your EGT set-up is only monitoring the front three cylinders, which usually run a tad cooler. To monitor both back and front cylinders you would require two sensors. That said the EGT set-up you have should give you a good general reading. Cheers
I really do enjoy watching you do maintenance work on vehicles 🚗 Jesse, it’s also really cool that you can (like Mr Andrew Camarata) do these things and only have to pay for parts, well done and I will look forward to seeing with you do next.
Nice video man. I own a busy auto repair shop in Rhode Island and I enjoy watching your videos.
Another Excellent vid from the finest all around mechanic! Keep em coming Jesse!
Jesse, my dad had a lot of dump trucks with the Eaton Two speed. A 1951 Ford F6 with a vacuum shift. A 1953 Ford F600 the first electric shift. A 1962 Dodge D600 electric shift. The Dodge did the grinding racheting noise problem but never went in between hi/lo like yours. If I can remember right the problem areas are too much play in the ring and pinion gear backlash. And you will have to get a motors truck manual and look at the workings of the 2 speed. Of course try to find a good truck mechanic with experience on these on line or in person. You did the right first steps with the electrics. Here"s a good vid to look at th-cam.com/video/pOvy3SnKyJ0/w-d-xo.html
Isn't there a shift fork in those rear ends?
thanks, I am pretty sure the problem is in one of the forks/gears. I cant believe how much research I did on the rear and I didnt find this video. and you found it instantly lol
Man... LOVED the vid! I truly enjoy your stuff! Love fact that you explain things in simplistic way. Thank you for taking us along, my friend. Already anticipating the next video!
Nice little neighborhood you've got there.
Good luck w/the new truck.
Till the shop is up, your backside is the shop. I hated it too. The rear end.... the shift fork on the inside of the rear end and part that sticks out behind the shift motor sets in a brass bushing top and bottom on most but they do very a bit on just how they make the shift. Those bushings most likely the lower one on the inside is worn out and lets it climb out.... one of the two points will be bad worn and needs to be replaced. I haven't done one in over forty years so its hard to describe it well. Also in the rear end itself it has a shift collar that goes high/low... it looks like a sincro out of a transmission and works the same way to make it synchronized other wise like before all that and back in the forties it was straight cut and had to really have the rpms just right to make it work well. We used to take the electric or vacuum motor off and make a lever that would manually shift the gears which was fine as a kid cause it was one more lever. Personally those transmissions in either truck are a waste of money. A nine, ten or thirteen speed would be much more to the advantage point. I don't know if one rear end from the flatbed repair/parts truck will slip in but once inside of it by just taking the center section out, it will explain in black and white why the other is jumping out of gear.... what makes them wear like that is the bearings are too small for the job. Unless someone gives you plenty for the old truck, keep it till you know whats what with the new one. Parts and pieces should be everywhere for the older trucks laid up/retired. I personally if it were me go with a thirteen speed, and single speed rear end. Keep away from dayton wheels and stick with the budd rims like you have now.
Looking forward to your next video, Jesse...sorry that you could not fix the issue with the international, but hoping with some help and ideas from some gear heads here online that you can get it all taken care of at some point. Would be nice to keep it around, BUT if you choose not to, selling it would be a good idea, AFTER you get the reas end issue taken care of. always learning something from you, thank you for sharing.
FUN PROJECT TO FOLLOW, IM INTRIGUED TO SEE WHAT YOU ARE GOING TO DO WITH THAT TRUCK. VERY LOW MILEAGE‼️👍👍. Vinny 🇺🇸
Wanted to mention something I noticed on your truck. might want to replace the busted air filter restriction indicator on your intake tube. I have heard of them letting dust in after filter which could be harmful to your engine. Great video love the content!
Really enjoyed the video. The tool you made reminds me of my Dad. He was a shade tree mechanic when he got off work. He would make his own tools if it took something he didn't have. Keep it up.
Not sure how precise the EGT reading has to be but your probe looks like it's sitting on the other side of the manifold. The tip should be center of the pipe. Love your videos thanks for great content.
I was thinking it needs to be set to the correct depth and he essentially just dropped it in which won’t give accurate readings.
Man I love these videos I learn alot. Thanks Jesse.
The 8.3 cummins is a good motor. I have one in my motorhome. And love it...Good luck on that rear. Sometimes they can be a Royal pain inthe ass getting them figured out when they start acting up
Another nice fix JM, nice work
Have you changed that electric stepper motor yet. I had this chevy truck that wouldn't stay in 4 high. It needed a new stepper (encoder) motor. When the motor got warm the high resistance wouldn't hold the motor in gear. New encoder motor fixed it. I know it's not a transfer case but that setup reminds me of the way a transfer case works. Good luck, can't wait to see the track loader running!
Liked the Rigid brushless driver... Heard good things about them..
Milwaukee is the one to beat tho.. Great video.. 💯💯💯
That truck was right around the corner from me. Saw it on marketplace while looking for a similar truck. Good luck and keep up the great content!
Did you find a better deal than his? Wow. Tell us about it. It would be interesting to those of us looking. I have every machine I need except a small dump truck.
@@googleguy5700 Didn't imply I found a better deal. Just cool to know Jesse was in the neighborhood.
You are a jack of all trades & master of many, Jesse! So amazing! Did you by chance go to mechanics school? You are so knowledgeable. You remind me of my dad many, many years ago. Of course, schooling wasn’t even heard of back then. I don’t really know how he learned. We love watching your channel. Thank you & God bless.
Get a NOS kit and supercharger, bigger jets and massive hood scoop 👌,
I found a good tip for drilling and tapping manifolds, put small powerful neodymium magnets on the drill and tap to capture all swarf and debris
Congrats on the new truck Jesse
Its Awesome
Really really good videos..I dont own or drive any trucks but I really like watching and learning..
That international is clean , I didn't see any rust when you were underneath it. And Congratulations on the new whip👍, try to keep it as long as you can because after you get rid of it you'll see just how much you needed it, I say that from experience 🤦. But don't get me wrong, if you can get a good chunk of change from it then it might be best . Check the barter ads too sometimes you can come up with something else you need more than an extra truck. 👍
Back in the day people would remove the anaroyd pipe remove the fitting on the pump,they would install a zerk fitting and pump grease to keep the rack at full travel and it worked LOL
Jesse, I don’t know anything mechanical or have any skills but I enjoy your videos and hope you keep making them. You have good analytical skills and you do interesting projects.
Thanks for showing how to work on the injection pump. I have the same truck (‘92 international 4700 with a DTA 360) grossly underpowered, but I will try this!
It’s a synchronized 6 speed manual, so I’m no help on the two speed rear end..
Hey Jesse..nice job and a tip is to put grease in the flutes of tap to capture the chips
Hi jesse really enjoying your videos keep up the great work . Hi from Ireland 🇮🇪
Also works if you start the engine and let it idle while drilling and tapping the egt hole in the exhaust manifold 👍.. blows the chips out immediately
Awesome Jesse looking forward on the next truck
Man you're good jessie,did you go to school to be a mechanic. I can't get enough of your videos, you are my favorite utuber I must say!
LOL....
ahoj from czech republic: magnetize the drill first and then the slow speed - the minimum of chips
Excited for the new truck!
I have a international s1700, DT360. After sitting for more than a couple hours it won’t start without ether. I’m in the process of changing all the fuel lines thinking it’s getting air in the system and bleeding back. Once I get that figured out I’m definitely going to make the same adjustments you did with the fuel because it’s just a dog right now. Also having some issues with the rear end, heck I’m not even sure if it’s going into high or low, it seems like it’s really winding out at 55 so maybe it’s stuck in low. Thanks for the video, it’s nice to be able to relate to the stuff you’re working on.
that sounds like you have air in the lines, install a clear line to check for it
Ed here, my international tractors would do this when the pump got weak, had to get pumps rebuilt. dont like ether too much, sometimes rattle the valves with it. sometimes weak batteries wont turn the engine fast enough to pump up the injectors.
@@patriciareynolds2729 Hi Ed. Thanks for the reply. After replacing all the fuel lines and injector seals it seems much better. I wouldn’t say perfect but better. After a couple days sitting it’ll still take 10 seconds or a little more to fire off. I don’t doubt the pump is probably getting weak too. It’s got a lot of miles on it.
The shift collar in the differential is worn, that is the main cause of the rear axle to jump out if gear like that.
When you are drilling the manifold, cold start the engine while drilling. The exhaust pressure will blow out the shaving from the drill bit. Pack the tap with geese.
Best of luck with the new truck
I’ve got the 6CTA8.3 Cummins in my truck, love the engine, I just need to finish up some of the engine work I’ve been doin on it.
Jesse - "I dod't have a lot of experience with a rear end..." - LOL!!!
he also not an expert of diesel engines 😹😹😹
Jesse, great video! Impressed by the methodical and thoughtful process of elimination for getting to the issues. Well done! It makes me cringe and yell at the computer to watch Andrew change a starter on the Cat.
But you still watched it
@@DK-jd8bj yes I did. I'm a sucker for Cats
I have zero interest in cats but it's entertaining to watch Andrew get stuff done... The way everyone wishes they could do it but are too afraid too. Lol
@@DK-jd8bj yeah, there's a reason for that... He could have done devastating damage to the bell housing. Lol
Love this little truck. Kinda want to say that before grinding started, shoulda opened up the rear end to find out why it was out of spec. That might open a whole nother snake nest though... might just end up being a 5 speed lol
New truck looks badass
Some nice back to back videos in couple a days 👍👍
My favorite part was the drive. Thank you. Take it easy.
Every time I watch one of his videos I get inspired to buy old things, tear them apart, and to make them right again or better! Now... to just do all of those things... :)
lol
@@jmuller86 = We do rebuild a few things here or there. I can't wait to retire and grab some land up north... This was our build... My son's first... th-cam.com/video/Gx2dEZ_O1Q8/w-d-xo.html
Dt360 is awesome! I want to put one in a pickup. Turbo sounds awesome. I can get 6 ton in my cab and chassis truck
If you put grease in the valleys of the tap it will keep the shavings from falling down into the turbo.
I just found this channel. AWESOME. Subscribed.
As always, great production, thank you.
I love watching this videos 🔥
When we used to get air leaks on the fuel system we used to gob grease over each of the pipe fittings over the course of a few days until we fixed the air leak. The grease will seal the fuel lines for long enough to locate the problem. This for the suction lines, obvs.
With 6,300 hrs, I suspect the Freightliner has a lot more than 55,000 miles on it. For stationary machines we always compared hours to mileage by figuring it at 40 mph which would be 252,000 miles. At 20 mph that would be 126,000 miles.
Previous owner could have just idled the truck a lot. Could’ve spent a lot of time waiting to be loaded and waiting to unload. I see this with a lot of pool companies. They idle all day, but get loaded up and drive just a few miles away to dump the dirt, come back, and wait for their turn to be loaded.
Well, think I’ll give this video a look and try. So far so good .👍👍👍👍🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
Love yur videos. U & Andrew are 2Kings of property maint. & equipment fix-up. But u, a master electrician & res/crmcl.builder add more interest. Now A. just got a tilt bucket..can u jump up & get a tilt/rotator/finger grab tool like Headblom? He is in Sweeden, so u will report soil/rock proportions for effectiveness in your/Andrew's area. Love yur/A's work & especially attitude toward work! Both of u reflect best of American values. Hats off & salute!
I can't wait for your big dump truck video!
Jesse if you only had 8psi of boost you should pressure test your turbo piping and charge air cooler. Might be losing boost between turbo and intake manifold.
Another great video. Thanks Jessie
Andrew fixing his D4, and Jessie working on the International! A double header! I wish you guys were my neighbors.
Old style 2 speed was a spring that was cocked and tripped for a more positive shift by popping the foot feed. There was no geared wheel that rotates. It was a screw shaft design.
From the standpoint of a machinist, I would suggest that the shape of the gear-teeth in the rear end have changed, possibly from low oil levels, wear, etc. It is my understanding that the shape of the teeth is what helps gears stay meshed when under load, and you changing load values while driving causing it to malfunction, seems indicative. I think you will find deformed teeth (from wear, etc) inside the rear end.
I've watched a bunch of your videos. Thanks for being so informative.
he planetary gears are with a brass shafts or pins that's what wore and will not stay aligned when it in low gear. Drain the oil and have it tested and lock for brass particle. Hope this help
Amazing fabrication work there! Not sure someone else has suggested this but fellow TH-camr J.C. SMITH PROJECTS might be able to help you with the International's rear issues. He specializes in restoring and fabricating big trucks. Thanks for the video!
Great Video, you can everything repair👍👍👍🤗
I am really enjoying the channel Keep up the good work.
Always good to check air filters aswell, no air = no boost
I see where everyone beat me with the grease on the drill & tap trick, how bout getting a donut magnet to drill through. Works great, whenever I drill inside an existing electrical panel that is either live or not easily cleaned out I use one and it catches everything.
Liking the magnet trick
Something kinda funny is. I think the Bose that is right below where he mounted the egt probe is actually for a egt probe lol. There is one on each side right where you would normally have them. It was prob to tight of a spot to drill with out taking the turbo back off. Not that it matters. It would just be less likely to crack since there is more material.
Am I assuming correctly you lived a former life as a heavy equipment mechanic? Sure seems like you know a lot more than TH-cam has to offer! Great video; good luck with the new truck!
Sounds like you have a major boost leak unless it’s just the way the camera picks it up
I was thinking the same thing
Internationals are great trucks. If I were you I’d get one 1984 for newer dt466 ( have the inline pumps up to 1993 I think) and just look for one with a 10-speed trans. My dad and I always had two speed rears then get one with 10-speed. Then got two more with 10,s. Once you got that route you’ll realize it’s a totally different truck. Still not the fastest truck in the world but definitely reliable. Just be careful with that weight having no jake brake - that is the only thing I have bad to say about an s-series. Plus pulling a trailer that large will be hard on the main box with all that weight.
Maybe Andrew could come over and whack it with his 10lb mall, crank in some self tapping nut driver screws, a few sheetmetal scraps and some sawdust to tighten the gap at the ring and pinion.
Your shift collar is probably rounded out which will allow it to slip out, or your shift fork is worn out where it slip into the slot on the sift collar. All of which requires removal of the third member.
Sweet new truck dude
Fuel metering adjustments are a good bump. Bigger exhaust cheaper than bigger turbo.
I bought the parts to upgrade to a 5" exhaust system but I kind of got discouraged after not being able to fix the rear. then I got the FL70 and kind of gave up on the exhaust upgrade
Those 2 speed switchboxes were always tempermental, one wrong shift & it time for a different one, easy to change , I always went with good used.