Considering the price-tag for a new vehicle today, I wouldn't have to think twice about dumping a couple of thousand $$$ into a vehicle I know and love to drive.
I am only 10 seconds into video. but a whole Ford 10.5 isn't a few thousand. so I agree completely edit: especially on 2010 thats basically a new truck
What a pleasure to see a procedure so well explained, with competence, experience , calm and with the family thrown in to give a human aspect. Thankyou all.
This is an old school full floating axle. You can find one on anything with duel rear wheels. (Or in this case, an American "3/4" ton. Somehow getting away without duels...
Years ago my brother & I were stripping a Land Rover rear axle. The pinion was fighting like a good 'em.... we stepped away to find a larger tool of persuasion, there was a loud bang and the tinkle of a window being smashed. It had come loose and had flown out of the garage and through Mum's new greenhouse (we'd put up the day before). To say we were both relived and unpopular at the same time is an understatement....
I suspect that was a 'Salisbury' model axle and, IIRC, they required a special spreader tool. My first purchase from a dismantler was a pair of brake drums for a Series 1. A couple of years later I became one of the staff there.
@@robt2151jam a prybar on the spider gears and rotate the pinion flange. the carrier will now come out. this works for any spicer/salisbury and salisbury-type (integral carrier) axle
@Rob Smith Hopefully she was more relieved that neither of you were in the way of that projectile that went through her new greenhouse, than she was mad at you!
I understand editing and such, but you really do make things look easy when you have the right tools. It's really amazing to watch the proper tools do a proper job. Nice.
Edits made is particularly easy after step by step bringing the truck down onto the replacement axle then instantly lifting truck, axle and all like the quick connects snapped in place.
Your family's intermittent appearances are nice to see. Its one of the major joys of my life, too, seeing my kiddo as soon as he comes home from school.
42:25 Instead of the plastic pans, look at rubber feeder pans they sell for horses. TSC Tractor Supply has them. They are softer, they handle cold and abuse better. We have a couple of stainless bed pans scrapped out of a hospital/nursing home. Surprisingly useful and hell for stout.
I was stoked the day I got a cement/mortar mixing pan. But you just got me hip to a totally great idea using those rubber feeder pans. Those things are practically invincible. Thanks for sharing!
Smell-o-Vision will be great though, I have grown up on a farm in South Africa 200 miles from the nearest town and we fixed all our equipment ourselves. Mostly we just relied on the neighbors' knowledge and guess the rest, but the smell of oil, grease and diesel still remind me of those days. Thank you Wes for showing me where we went wrong and where we guessed right. One time our 1950 Fordson tractor started knocking furiously, so we discovered the big-end bearing was worn out. We had no replacement bearing, so we installed buffalo hide cut correctly and soaked in water. It lasted for 6 hours which tied us over until someone went to town. Good old days.
That was a good video Wes. I have encountered the bearing problems but on my larger trucks, it was good to see it all come together for you and the right way to go with a complete used axle. I never scrapped my Lorries to a junkyard, but we stripped down all re-usable parts and cleaned and stored them, and it saved me a lot of money over the years. It was nice to see your family. Best Wishes from Cheshire..
I have never seen FRAM gear oil in any of my auto parts stores. This is a new one for me. And very good for you on installing new U bolts, some people will not do that.
I've got a 2003 2-wd F-250 Super Duty 7.3 Diesel Crew cab with 114,000 miles . I don't think my rearend is a lockup as it's designated a Limited Slip on the window sticker , I'm the original owner . Thanks for a Great Video . Man this old 7.3 Diesel still pulls like a mad man .
12:00 spinning bearings. I've 'cured' similar to this. Packed 'em with cigarette papers. Lasted until the body rusted away. Great content! EDIT: For you, Wes, it's a bit like talking to us if we were on Mars. You chat, we respond an hour or more later...
Love watching Wes's videos. You see him with the impact getting ready to take the U bolts off the normal way, next scene the death wheel LOL to take them off the correct way.
Eh, I would have tried a torch on the U-bolt nuts first if the threads and shanks of the u-bolts weren't severely rust pitted. I live in the rust belt too and you typically try to save anything that isn't just completely rotten away or going to cause a failure later down the road.
@@WatchWesWork Maybe new passenger light duty trucks, where all fasteners are throw-away. But 3/4" and 7/8" u-bolts have always been reusable unless they've been stretched beyond limits.
I'm worn out from doing an all-day home repair today. But I'd gladly do 5 home repairs to having to do the job you just did. Glad there are guys like you who actually know how to make that repair.
Always enjoy your videos. You get right to the point. Not like some of the other you tubers who think that they are Hollywood directors with the long dragged out opening of the video.
Amen. They love to hear them TALK. Instead of getting to the point and getting the task started and done. When I see that. I just don't watch them. If I needed someone who talks. I'd rather talk to me grandson and listen to him talk and ask questions. ❤
Excellent decision on the rebuild vs junk yard housing, Great video and editing. You are a great teacher of mechanics. After all the metal in the rear I would worry forever about the use of the housing with latent metal migrating into the bearings and gears. You are the best.\
A good cleaning will take care of it. Any small amount left over will be cought by the magnet on the diff cover. Just try and get out what is reasonably feasible to do. You will be replacing the fluid after about 500 miles due to break in procedures.
@@williamallen7836 My concern is always the residual amount of metal that can migrate to the axle wheel bearings. Not too many mechanics wash out the rear end tubes like 16 inch guns on a battleship.
@@tonyrum5808 There really is no need for cleanliness to that degree. A basic 20 minute clean is enough. Anything that would be left will be so fine that it will cause no harm, and picked up by the magnet. It will look like what is on the magnet after the first 500 mile brake in gear oil change. They are designed to deal with very fine metal shavings that are produced between gear oil changes. Hence the magnet to catch the stuff that will cause damage until the next gear oil change. My pinion bearing was destroyed far beyond the one in this video, and a basic cleaning got the bits that would cause damage. The roller cage was in about 1K small pieces. When I rebuilt the 10 bolt in my Camaro I used 3 to 4 cans of break cleaner. Prior to this I bolted the diff cover on with the center section & pinion gear removed. I shot some kerosene down both axle tubes as a general flush that removed most of the bits. Then used a broom handle to push kerosene soaked rags from the wheel to the center section, and pulled them out ware the pinion gear used to be. Similar to cleaning a gun. Once very little to no metal shavings could be seen, I started spraying break cleaner to flush any very small shavings to the center section. Removed the cover, the magnet cought most of it. So I cleaned the cover. Then with the pinion end pointing upwards I sprayed down through it to clear the gear oil passage out. Then sprayed out the rest of the center section. A quick spray of wd-40 down the axel tube, and the center section to prevent rust while I worked on the rebuild. After the 500 mile breakin the only shavings on the magnet was the very fine shavings from the pinion & ring gear breaking in. Looked almost like mud on the magnet. There's no need to worry so much as long as a basic cleaning job is done.
13:30 i helped a friend with a rarer 1920's diff for a merc, by creating a locking point system with braze. Holes drilled in the base of the diff case and then pegs brazed on the outer races of the smaller, but closest equivalent bearings we could find. The unmodified fit was just as loose as what you're presenting here. That was some years ago, and no issues so far. If done carefully, brazing the race doesn't warp it too much. Caveat, it does deform somewhat, so a fitted truncated cone was fabbed before so we can hone the face back into spec, which wasn't that difficult. There's more than one way to skin a cat, plenty of way. I mean, you could even clad the bearing holders with braze and hone that.
in that instance I agree with you, cause for you you're skinning a cat that's the only cat in the world and it has to work, for Wes it's pretty much your regular ol' tabby and he just needs to get it done cheap and quick, he got the repair done probably for less than just parts the other way
I revisit a lot of your video's Wes ... that's how good they are, craftsmanship and sarcastic humor! ... my cup-a-tea ... thanks bud ... Greetings from Holland.
Yea, when your talking about more money than it would cost to buy a complete axle, there is no point in fixing that one. Thank you for doing this video. I have never worked on a diff before, and I haven't seen many people do videos on them. Thanks.
I noticed you covered the license plate with a glove, A suggestion, have Mrs WWW make you a license plate something that has you logo on it, and if it had a couple or three magnets secured to the back side of it, that would help it cover the customers plate. Just a thought.
Man, I know how hard it is to incorporate your family into a youtube life. Let alone your business. My hats off to you for making it happen for our entertainment.
Being the owner of a completely different truck brand 8 years newer, I found this video very useful. I watched it all. Thank you! If I ever come across a 2011 F250 broken down for this issue on the side of the road I'll tell him what to tell the mechanic.
It appears as though there was water intrusion into the diff, and afterward the truck may have sat undriven for a period of time which caused the bearings to become fused (rusted) to their races, causing the races to spin. Great video!
My 1990 F 350 would leak diff oil from the seals, ruining the shoes in the process. Replaced the seals and it did it again. With a little research I found that the factory bearings were wide enough to ruin the seal. A kit was made with a narrower bearing and a better seal. Never leaked again, but why didn't the mechanic that did the first repair know this and why didn't the parts supplier know this. Worse yet, when I did the repair myself, I had to educate the ford truck parts dealer about the update. The ford instructions said to pack the bearing. Nice video.
I just rebuilt a gm 7.5 in my firebird and wow what a difference in part size ! That crush sleeve is massive. Good call ditching that axle I wouldn’t bother trying to do anything with that bearing race spinning.
You know wes has great integrity he doesnt just say oh it needs this this this and charge thousands he looks out for the customer that is a noble thing my friend. Not many like you around.
As soon as I saw the front race damage I thought of finding another one from the wreckers. It doesn’t make sense to even try to reuse that housing. You probably knocked off 4 to 6 hours off from not having to get new parts and rebuilding the entire unit. Nice job!
I think the reason they did use grease in the axle bearings is the different amount of static load. Grease can better withstand static loads there while the diff bearings do carry much less static load and thus can run in oil. Modern oil can be mixed accordingly for the high static loads. Also, grease can tolerate some amount of water content in the cavity, while oil basically gets milky. That is what killed this axle in the first place - so if it had used grease it would still work.
The grease will quickly get washed out by the diff oil. The Dana 30 in my Volvo wagon has an inner oil seal that keeps the oil out of the wheel bearing, allowing it run in grease only.
@@maplebones well yeah, you need to keep the system you have. You can't just put axle grease into an axle bearing which is supposed to run in oil. But that wasn't my point here.
Keeping those carrier bearings in place while under severe loads seems to be a constant problem with heavy pickups, no matter the brand. I went the more expensive route on my 1st generation Dodge ... a Jasper rebuilt. Re-fitted carriers, installed with bearing locker. The original 5 speed transmission was replaced with a brand new 4500 HD rather than simply rebuilding or replacing the Getrag. Both were painful to the wallet, but that pain has only been once for each in close to half a million miles, a lot of those pulling much more than the truck was originally rated for. Everyone else would have been through 5 transmissions and at least 3 rear ends by then. I think another reason for the longevity I've gotten is because, as I learned more, I changed my driving habits. Constantly trying to get more than you should reasonably expect out of machine, for the most part, only leads to premature wear. "It's a workhorse, not a racehorse." It will plow a field all day. But if you put it in the Kentucky Derby, it will be dead before it gets halfway around the track.
Talking about a bearing locker, are you talking about a retainer that blocks the preload shims in place? On my 04 wrangler d44 rear axle the preload shims are outside the bearings and held in place solely by interference/preload force, though i dont think they slip out completely due to the diff cover. I have read views that the carrier bearing preload should be very tight on assembly, and failure from too much preload is rare or nonexistant. I believe that was from the Randys ring and pinion website.
@@connor3288 I'm not sure, but I think the locker was used between the bearing outer races and the case. Prevent movement under heat/stress, remove any chance of having the race spin in the case. I know the transmission man that installed my 4500HD told me that he had a jig that would literally spread the case to make removing the ring gear/spider gear/bearing package possible "without resorting to the use of high explosives ..." I think (not certain, because it came to me by hearsay) manufacturer outfitted repair facilities have, or had, rather specialized equipment (unitaskers) that would have been expensive and impractical for most small repair shops to have. Certainly explains the popularity for swapping out the entire unit rather than repairing it yourself.
Just paid the local Ford dealer to fix the noise in my 2016 F150 rear end at 160000, km. Cost about $1,400 CDN. They acknowledged that the differential in this vintage of truck was problematic, but that there was no Ford warranty. Ford has changed the rear end design since my truck was built. Good video Wes. I am glad I didn't tackle it myself as I don't have a hoist and would be laying on my back and getting dripped on by road salt. Would like to have saved some money though.
Bearing spinning in the housing and Wes says "there is no easy way to fix that." Then he suggests grinding the cap and line boring it!?Wes, Wes, Wes, you act like a man who has never made a shim from an beer can. That's an easy fix brother. It's like using a piece of leather belt to fix a rod bearing or a piece of emery cloth wedged in a wiper arm stub shaft to keep it from slipping. I mean sawdust in the oil pan, pepper in the radiator.... oh I can go on all day. Jk'in you did the right thing man but for the record a beer can and green locktite she'd been good as new :). Cheers buddy!
@@WatchWesWork Had a Dana 44 out of a Jeep years ago with the same deal. Got some copper foil ~0.001" thick and wrapped the bearing race with it. Heard from a friend of a friend that that Jeep is still chuggin' away.
Great video Wes. Thank you for sharing the content. I’ll never do this job, but it sure is fun watching you do it rather effortlessly. Your son is growing fast. Amazing change from videos last year. Soon he’ll be helping his dad, in a productive way 🤣
I'm happy that you didn't have the same issue I had with my 2012 Ram 1500 after an axle swap. Mine was bent in an accident, so swapped in a used axle from a scrap yard. Drove it about 10 miles and the pinion bearing blew. Had to get another second hand axle and start all over.
IMO you made the right call putting a different axle in. Short of line-boring those bearing caps there was no real way to fix it and line-boing is just way too costly to justify it.
Wes having worked in the Sheet Metal trades for 28 years I've learned when operating a Grinder or cutoff wheel etc that not only does it pay to use safety glasses, but a face shied is pretty much required as well, after all if you get (and I have) slivers in your eyes you get to watch the doctor pull them out! and after all, eyes are not available off the shelf! When I look in a mirror, I see the person who is most responsible for my own safety!
I have a similar hub on my Ford. The oil slinger behind the bearing ate itself and took out the bearing/oil seal. I reassembled without the slinger. If I understand it's function correctly it's intended job is to divert oil away from the seal. Not to oil the bearing so much. Good Video Wes! 👍. PS you're right the seals do suck, even with the Ford tool it's a pia.
slingers are to lube the bearing, when oil level is low(up a hill) it grabs oil and slings it the upper portion and it travels down the bearing thus lubing it,
Wes the reason for the grease in the Bering hubs on the duce and a half is that it was protection against water. The duce and a half could run through water up to 48 " and the axels and third members were supposed to be water proof, vents on the pumpkin were one-way. I leared this while in Korea in the early 70's. I really enjoy your channel you can thank Matt at Diesel Creek for suggesting it.
Another great job Wes, my only suggestion is you should have used a lube locker cover gasket (20 bucks) and you should have installed the aluminum diff cover from ford (60 bucks). On a side note for that 10.5" to fail under 100k it had to have been submerged a time of two and left with water mixed oil. These axles are nearly bomb proof....
Good call replacing the whole diff with a used unit. I have stepped on some bad land mine$ trying to be a $mart a$$ and replacing individual components with new ones while trying to make it work with old ones. Don't end too well specially with parts that were assembled all new as a unit at the same time. Good work, Wes !
Things certainly have come a long way. Back in the 70's I bought a 1962 Ford F-100 (predecessor of the F-150). Shortly thereafter I was able to obtain the actual Ford shop manual for the entire F series. 100 to 900. I had started having trouble with the rear end howling. I found out that, according to the Ford factory manual; they wanted you to set the pinion to ring lash with a common "brown paper grocery sack". I did not believe that was correct, so; I consulted a mechanic that was older than I was at the time. He said that was right and quite common. The truck is long gone, but; I still have the manual. So, the lash was variable enough that a common sack would work to set it. Not like that anymore, is it?
Interesting. I have some old manuals that show how to make your own special tools. I can't imagine that anymore. If they can't get it off the Mac Tools truck it doesn't exist.
@@WatchWesWork I have a manual that shows that as well. I think it is also a Ford manual. Somewhere around the mid 80's. That's when I got out of the business. Around the '86-'88 time frame.
Tolerances are so tight anymore there's no extra "meat" to machine down. It's one time use and throwaway. Brake rotors . Drums. We live in a throwaway society. Before too long we will loose the skills to do so. And if it doesn't have an OBD port shops don't want to work on it anymore. Nobody "fixes" things anymore its strictly R&R.
@@WatchWesWork Making your own tools is half the fun (at least for me), tho I know I've added plenty of time to my personal projects making tools but hey if it's a job I'll be doing more than once it's worth it.
Bearings have a rated capacity and speed for oil lubed and grease packed. Generally a grease packed bearing has a lower rated speed. Grease packed bearing have a higher dynamic load capacity, if memory serves me correctly.
Yes, junkyards do not sell certain parts due to liability. I was a car buyer for a junkyard for several years, and there were many parts that we did not resell due to liability issues. We also did not resell catalytic converters or air bags for the same reason. After the Takata air bag recall, we began pulling air bags from cars before they even went out on the yard to ensure that no one would even be able to steal them. We did not resell brake pads, rotors, drums, wheel cylinders, or hoses unless they were brand new, and customers had to sign a waiver of liability before we would resell them. We did not have any limitations on calipers or master cylinders though.
Just another great video, Wes. Your patience continues to amaze me. How one person can put up with so many rusted, frozen, or otherwise stuck bolts and fittings without throwing something is shocking. There is a special place above for people like you. Your problem solutions are becoming legendary. Congrats on another job well done. Thanks for sharing.
im always fascinated by people in the south who see a little rust and panic. charge way more give up lol. dude come to northern ontario. there's a good reason the drop out rate in the trade is over 95% in first 2 years now. the ones who make it through though! ;)
@@maplebones Carpenters throw hammers, football players throw helmets, hockey players break stick, baseball players throw bats and the beat goes on an on, it's called frustration
Man what never happens for me is hitting a wrench with a hammer and not breaking the wrench. That's some master mechanic skill on display there. I've broken every major brand of wrench doing that.
Nice. I watched a guy bring his Mustang in 6 times under warranty only to be NPF. He was about to leave for the very last time and I started to talk to the Man. Unlike most, I actually listen. I went for a Test Drive and the Guy had a noise from the Rearend, Pinion Bearings. You could just barely hear it. I made good money on the repair and kept a Customer. It doesn't get much better than that.
Mainly the vehicles from Ontario and Quebec are the ones I find to be very very very rusty, I assume its because they get milder more frequently near freezing weather that necessitates road salt application. Generally Canadian vehicles in Alberta, Saskatchewan and Manitoba don't get rustier than the average American Midwest. Nice job on the Diff swap Wes.
@@tlr-nut7275 That's true for common sodium chloride, but they're now using calcium and magnesium chloride that are active to almost -30 C. It's mixed with water and spayed on. It's starting to show up in Alberta and Sask. and Manitoba. Road crews love it because, whether it's needed or not, it's gives them more winter work.
Wes with the noise and the metal on the plug I would of stopped right there and swapped it out. The yards in Columbus, Ohio sell brake parts no problem. Thanks Wes, good video.
32:34 Is there a reason to not do that with a press, either an arbor press or a full-on hydraulic press? I think you have both, I know you've got the full-on press at a minimum. It just seems like a lot of work goes into hitting it and keeping it even/straight when you could just make a little adaptor that holds the installation tool squarely on the front of the press ram and then give it a good old-fashioned hydraulic shove...
17:08 Junk Yards here in Europe do the same. Especially in recent years, it's become more and more difficult to find old parts. Unless you have friends on the inside and good relations, you're stuffed if you have old stuff. CV19 hasn't made things easier either.
Wes in 1982 I did a GMC C35, someone had been into it before me. They had not tightened up the differential side bearing cap bolts. I took 0.005” off each bearing cap, then used Locktite red stud and bearing to safety it. That pickup was a farm service pickup, if it put 5,000 miles a year on it was a lot. Later I found out that when the motor went out, the owner gave it to someone else who put it into a another C35 to convert from single wheels to dual wheels. Last I had heard the new owner put over 100,000 miles on it. I told the new owner what I had done. He commented that I must have done something correct! Did water get into the differential oil. Kind of looks like it. Hello from north east Montana. 10 miles from the Canadian border.
Even with the $20/gal coolant for my Toyota, I simply cannot imagine a situation where I would ever consider using used coolant outside of an emergency situation.
Who would? I can only imagine it's priced at the cost of disposal and after 6 months on the shelf, can be written off as a loss to claim back the cost of getting rid of it.
Filling tractor tyres for extra weight. Personally I just use water, but used anti-freeze is a popular choice in places where freezing is a consideration.
Probably would have smelled like sulfur soaked in rancid pond water. Pretty much sums up the kind of smell you get when you have past-due for a change axle oil, mixed with water.
Thumbs up on the hearing protection. My dad is nearly deaf after being in this business for 50 years before retiring.
Yes. My father and his two brothers are all mechanics. All three of them 3/4 deaf.
Considering the price-tag for a new vehicle today, I wouldn't have to think twice about dumping a couple of thousand $$$ into a vehicle I know and love to drive.
+
I am only 10 seconds into video. but a whole Ford 10.5 isn't a few thousand. so I agree completely
edit: especially on 2010 thats basically a new truck
Lack of maintenance maybe
Hell, I'm about to spend $150 on a new suspension kit for our 2001 Honda Accord with almost 300K miles. Can't kill 'em!
I've done that with my 2000 Tundra.
You're video was very timely, Wes. I was just about to get up off my couch and doing something productive. Thanks for saving me!
You too?
@@Le_Comte_de_Monte_Felin Me three
Ditto!
Glad I could help!
He was to late for me this morning. Darn
What a pleasure to see a procedure so well explained, with competence, experience , calm and with the family thrown in to give a human aspect. Thankyou all.
Good day to all ! Watch Wes work is a straightforward and legit repair channel with good content. 👍
I love this guy's videos, I'm not a mechanic and we don't have this kind of trucks in Ireland but I can't stop watching it. Good job.
This is an old school full floating axle. You can find one on anything with duel rear wheels. (Or in this case, an American "3/4" ton. Somehow getting away without duels...
in today's economy we all have to be half arsed mechanics
Years ago my brother & I were stripping a Land Rover rear axle. The pinion was fighting like a good 'em.... we stepped away to find a larger tool of persuasion, there was a loud bang and the tinkle of a window being smashed. It had come loose and had flown out of the garage and through Mum's new greenhouse (we'd put up the day before). To say we were both relived and unpopular at the same time is an understatement....
I suspect that was a 'Salisbury' model axle and, IIRC, they required a special spreader tool.
My first purchase from a dismantler was a pair of brake drums for a Series 1. A couple of years later I became one of the staff there.
@@robt2151jam a prybar on the spider gears and rotate the pinion flange. the carrier will now come out.
this works for any spicer/salisbury and salisbury-type (integral carrier) axle
Cheers
Hell hath no Fury like an angry Mother! Then for the next few day you will be eating Cold Shoulder. . .
@Rob Smith
Hopefully she was more relieved that neither of you were in the way of that projectile that went through her new greenhouse, than she was mad at you!
I understand editing and such, but you really do make things look easy when you have the right tools. It's really amazing to watch the proper tools do a proper job. Nice.
Edits made is particularly easy after step by step bringing the truck down onto the replacement axle then instantly lifting truck, axle and all like the quick connects snapped in place.
Thats why mechanics spend thousands on tools, it really does make things easier. Its not just the editing
Your family's intermittent appearances are nice to see. Its one of the major joys of my life, too, seeing my kiddo as soon as he comes home from school.
42:25 Instead of the plastic pans, look at rubber feeder pans they sell for horses. TSC Tractor Supply has them. They are softer, they handle cold and abuse better.
We have a couple of stainless bed pans scrapped out of a hospital/nursing home.
Surprisingly useful and hell for stout.
I was stoked the day I got a cement/mortar mixing pan. But you just got me hip to a totally great idea using those rubber feeder pans. Those things are practically invincible. Thanks for sharing!
Solid Video! Thanks for keeping them coming, Wes! I always learn something, even if it's a what not to do!
Smell-o-Vision will be great though, I have grown up on a farm in South Africa 200 miles from the nearest town and we fixed all our equipment ourselves. Mostly we just relied on the neighbors' knowledge and guess the rest, but the smell of oil, grease and diesel still remind me of those days. Thank you Wes for showing me where we went wrong and where we guessed right. One time our 1950 Fordson tractor started knocking furiously, so we discovered the big-end bearing was worn out. We had no replacement bearing, so we installed buffalo hide cut correctly and soaked in water. It lasted for 6 hours which tied us over until someone went to town. Good old days.
That was a good video Wes. I have encountered the bearing problems but on my larger trucks, it was good to see it all come together for you and the right way to go with a complete used axle. I never scrapped my Lorries to a junkyard, but we stripped down all re-usable parts and cleaned and stored them, and it saved me a lot of money over the years. It was nice to see your family. Best Wishes from Cheshire..
Good job well done Wes your family is looking well.
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I’ve said it before and say it again I wish you were my mechanic. Love how thorough your work ethic is. You’re a good man Wes.
Wait a minute you cannot leave us hanging. Your wife needs to finish the story about the corn field fire! Your sure have a delightful family!
Yeah, did she conjure up a lightning bolt or something?
I have never seen FRAM gear oil in any of my auto parts stores. This is a new one for me. And very good for you on installing new U bolts, some people will not do that.
Car Quest and Advance are switching to it. Just like Die Hard batteries.
I heard that FRAM bought the Carquest factories and just slapped their logo on it? Someone here I'm sure will fill us in
Isn't the life of a mechanic living in the rust belt just grand? It adds a whole new perspective to every job.
I've got a 2003 2-wd F-250 Super Duty 7.3 Diesel Crew cab with 114,000 miles . I don't think my rearend is a lockup as it's designated a Limited Slip on the window sticker , I'm the original owner . Thanks for a Great Video . Man this old 7.3 Diesel still pulls like a mad man .
Wes, your attention to detail is impressive. Great job as always!
12:00 spinning bearings. I've 'cured' similar to this. Packed 'em with cigarette papers. Lasted until the body rusted away. Great content!
EDIT: For you, Wes, it's a bit like talking to us if we were on Mars. You chat, we respond an hour or more later...
Your my favorite youtube channel, Wes! Your never boring! Thanks!
How Junior goes "Hi folks" at the end just kills me. hahaha
Love watching Wes's videos. You see him with the impact getting ready to take the U bolts off the normal way, next scene the death wheel LOL to take them off the correct way.
Eh, I would have tried a torch on the U-bolt nuts first if the threads and shanks of the u-bolts weren't severely rust pitted. I live in the rust belt too and you typically try to save anything that isn't just completely rotten away or going to cause a failure later down the road.
Yeah, i would of gone with the devils night light
I've never seen a U-bolt that could be reused. Even if they are not rusted, they are a torque to yield fastener.
I think Wes was just relieving some of the tension on the bolts so he could cut it safely
@@WatchWesWork Maybe new passenger light duty trucks, where all fasteners are throw-away. But 3/4" and 7/8" u-bolts have always been reusable unless they've been stretched beyond limits.
I'm worn out from doing an all-day home repair today. But I'd gladly do 5 home repairs to having to do the job you just did. Glad there are guys like you who actually know how to make that repair.
Always enjoy your videos. You get right to the point. Not like some of the other you tubers who think that they are Hollywood directors with the long dragged out opening of the video.
Amen. They love to hear them TALK. Instead of getting to the point and getting the task started and done. When I see that. I just don't watch them.
If I needed someone who talks. I'd rather talk to me grandson and listen to him talk and ask questions. ❤
Another great video! I personally like when you talk as you work. Education is visual and audible. Keep up the good work. Fan for life.
Excellent decision on the rebuild vs junk yard housing, Great video and editing. You are a great teacher of mechanics. After all the metal in the rear I would worry forever about the use of the housing with latent metal migrating into the bearings and gears. You are the best.\
A good cleaning will take care of it. Any small amount left over will be cought by the magnet on the diff cover. Just try and get out what is reasonably feasible to do. You will be replacing the fluid after about 500 miles due to break in procedures.
@@williamallen7836 My concern is always the residual amount of metal that can migrate to the axle wheel bearings. Not too many mechanics wash out the rear end tubes like 16 inch guns on a battleship.
@@tonyrum5808 There really is no need for cleanliness to that degree. A basic 20 minute clean is enough. Anything that would be left will be so fine that it will cause no harm, and picked up by the magnet. It will look like what is on the magnet after the first 500 mile brake in gear oil change. They are designed to deal with very fine metal shavings that are produced between gear oil changes. Hence the magnet to catch the stuff that will cause damage until the next gear oil change.
My pinion bearing was destroyed far beyond the one in this video, and a basic cleaning got the bits that would cause damage. The roller cage was in about 1K small pieces. When I rebuilt the 10 bolt in my Camaro I used 3 to 4 cans of break cleaner. Prior to this I bolted the diff cover on with the center section & pinion gear removed. I shot some kerosene down both axle tubes as a general flush that removed most of the bits. Then used a broom handle to push kerosene soaked rags from the wheel to the center section, and pulled them out ware the pinion gear used to be. Similar to cleaning a gun. Once very little to no metal shavings could be seen, I started spraying break cleaner to flush any very small shavings to the center section. Removed the cover, the magnet cought most of it. So I cleaned the cover. Then with the pinion end pointing upwards I sprayed down through it to clear the gear oil passage out. Then sprayed out the rest of the center section. A quick spray of wd-40 down the axel tube, and the center section to prevent rust while I worked on the rebuild. After the 500 mile breakin the only shavings on the magnet was the very fine shavings from the pinion & ring gear breaking in. Looked almost like mud on the magnet. There's no need to worry so much as long as a basic cleaning job is done.
You have a MOST assuring and calm approach to your repair videos. Enjoy them very much. Good work! Good Luck.
The editing from forklifting the old axle out to raising the new-old axle in place was pretty cool.
13:30 i helped a friend with a rarer 1920's diff for a merc, by creating a locking point system with braze. Holes drilled in the base of the diff case and then pegs brazed on the outer races of the smaller, but closest equivalent bearings we could find. The unmodified fit was just as loose as what you're presenting here. That was some years ago, and no issues so far. If done carefully, brazing the race doesn't warp it too much. Caveat, it does deform somewhat, so a fitted truncated cone was fabbed before so we can hone the face back into spec, which wasn't that difficult.
There's more than one way to skin a cat, plenty of way. I mean, you could even clad the bearing holders with braze and hone that.
in that instance I agree with you, cause for you you're skinning a cat that's the only cat in the world and it has to work, for Wes it's pretty much your regular ol' tabby and he just needs to get it done cheap and quick, he got the repair done probably for less than just parts the other way
I revisit a lot of your video's Wes ... that's how good they are, craftsmanship and sarcastic humor! ... my cup-a-tea ... thanks bud ... Greetings from Holland.
Great video, great lighting, and excellent commentary throughout. Keep up the good work. Glad to have folks like you with these skills.
Hi Wes. 6 hours comparing to a all new rear axle. Think you did a great job 👏
Hufflepuff Towing & Arson: If we can't tow it, they won't know it was yours.
Yea, when your talking about more money than it would cost to buy a complete axle, there is no point in fixing that one. Thank you for doing this video. I have never worked on a diff before, and I haven't seen many people do videos on them. Thanks.
I noticed you covered the license plate with a glove, A suggestion, have Mrs WWW make you a license plate something that has you logo on it, and if it had a couple or three magnets secured to the back side of it, that would help it cover the customers plate. Just a thought.
How are you going to stick magnets to an aluminum license plate?
Definitely can’t let the public see the license plate 🤣
@@whatitis99 In my state, they are still metal, AKA steel for now.
@@whatitis99 bolts are not aluminum
Sell yourself.
This is not greedy, this is good practice for a TH-camr.
Man, I know how hard it is to incorporate your family into a youtube life. Let alone your business. My hats off to you for making it happen for our entertainment.
Audio fade out as the lift went up, subtle, nice!
Being the owner of a completely different truck brand 8 years newer, I found this video very useful. I watched it all. Thank you! If I ever come across a 2011 F250 broken down for this issue on the side of the road I'll tell him what to tell the mechanic.
It appears as though there was water intrusion into the diff, and afterward the truck may have sat undriven for a period of time which caused the bearings to become fused (rusted) to their races, causing the races to spin. Great video!
You might be on the right track..........I would agree
Does water intrusion cause the gear oil to get foamy? When I did my trucks diff at 180k miles it was foamy like that.
Just FORD built explains it all
The plugged breather tells me the truck saw plenty of water and mud.
My 1990 F 350 would leak diff oil from the seals, ruining the shoes in the process. Replaced the seals and it did it again. With a little research I found that the factory bearings were wide enough to ruin the seal. A kit was made with a narrower bearing and a better seal. Never leaked again, but why didn't the mechanic that did the first repair know this and why didn't the parts supplier know this. Worse yet, when I did the repair myself, I had to educate the ford truck parts dealer about the update.
The ford instructions said to pack the bearing.
Nice video.
How crazy is it that AvE broke his Snap-On dead blow hammer this week as well!
I was about to say this... Small world 🤔
I have an old Snap-On molded hammer that broke apart as well
Cold weather making the plastic brittle.
Thanks, I learned a lot. The best part was the ending with your family. The definition of precious.
I just rebuilt a gm 7.5 in my firebird and wow what a difference in part size ! That crush sleeve is massive. Good call ditching that axle I wouldn’t bother trying to do anything with that bearing race spinning.
You know wes has great integrity he doesnt just say oh it needs this this this and charge thousands he looks out for the customer that is a noble thing my friend. Not many like you around.
As soon as I saw the front race damage I thought of finding another one from the wreckers.
It doesn’t make sense to even try to reuse that housing.
You probably knocked off 4 to 6 hours off from not having to get new parts and rebuilding the entire unit.
Nice job!
If the yunkyard waves accountability, you are accountable?
Atta boys coming your way, those rear ends have been the same for years but wow it was toast
I think the reason they did use grease in the axle bearings is the different amount of static load. Grease can better withstand static loads there while the diff bearings do carry much less static load and thus can run in oil.
Modern oil can be mixed accordingly for the high static loads.
Also, grease can tolerate some amount of water content in the cavity, while oil basically gets milky. That is what killed this axle in the first place - so if it had used grease it would still work.
The grease will quickly get washed out by the diff oil. The Dana 30 in my Volvo wagon has an inner oil seal that keeps the oil out of the wheel bearing, allowing it run in grease only.
@@maplebones well yeah, you need to keep the system you have. You can't just put axle grease into an axle bearing which is supposed to run in oil.
But that wasn't my point here.
greatest intro, the fluid is jacked, awesome vid as always
Keeping those carrier bearings in place while under severe loads seems to be a constant problem with heavy pickups, no matter the brand.
I went the more expensive route on my 1st generation Dodge ... a Jasper rebuilt. Re-fitted carriers, installed with bearing locker. The original 5 speed transmission was replaced with a brand new 4500 HD rather than simply rebuilding or replacing the Getrag. Both were painful to the wallet, but that pain has only been once for each in close to half a million miles, a lot of those pulling much more than the truck was originally rated for. Everyone else would have been through 5 transmissions and at least 3 rear ends by then.
I think another reason for the longevity I've gotten is because, as I learned more, I changed my driving habits. Constantly trying to get more than you should reasonably expect out of machine, for the most part, only leads to premature wear. "It's a workhorse, not a racehorse." It will plow a field all day. But if you put it in the Kentucky Derby, it will be dead before it gets halfway around the track.
Talking about a bearing locker, are you talking about a retainer that blocks the preload shims in place? On my 04 wrangler d44 rear axle the preload shims are outside the bearings and held in place solely by interference/preload force, though i dont think they slip out completely due to the diff cover. I have read views that the carrier bearing preload should be very tight on assembly, and failure from too much preload is rare or nonexistant. I believe that was from the Randys ring and pinion website.
@@connor3288 I'm not sure, but I think the locker was used between the bearing outer races and the case. Prevent movement under heat/stress, remove any chance of having the race spin in the case.
I know the transmission man that installed my 4500HD told me that he had a jig that would literally spread the case to make removing the ring gear/spider gear/bearing package possible "without resorting to the use of high explosives ..." I think (not certain, because it came to me by hearsay) manufacturer outfitted repair facilities have, or had, rather specialized equipment (unitaskers) that would have been expensive and impractical for most small repair shops to have. Certainly explains the popularity for swapping out the entire unit rather than repairing it yourself.
Enjoyed it, Wes. Thanks for letting us look over your shoulder.
The trials of working alone are real, I deal with it every day too, makes you smarter I guess, people often ask '' how did you do that ".
Wes World wins again!
Wes is da man, and Max is the PUP!
Mrs. Wes...she's the glue that holds it all together.
Merry Christmas!
30:40 FRAM OIL! man I thought they only made filters…. You said those bearings were fine but now they can’t be with a fram product…
Just paid the local Ford dealer to fix the noise in my 2016 F150 rear end at 160000, km. Cost about $1,400 CDN. They acknowledged that the differential in this vintage of truck was problematic, but that there was no Ford warranty. Ford has changed the rear end design since my truck was built.
Good video Wes. I am glad I didn't tackle it myself as I don't have a hoist and would be laying on my back and getting dripped on by road salt. Would like to have saved some money though.
$1400 is a steal. I did this job myself on a 2016 Platinum, it was close to $800 in parts alone.
Bearing spinning in the housing and Wes says "there is no easy way to fix that." Then he suggests grinding the cap and line boring it!?Wes, Wes, Wes, you act like a man who has never made a shim from an beer can. That's an easy fix brother. It's like using a piece of leather belt to fix a rod bearing or a piece of emery cloth wedged in a wiper arm stub shaft to keep it from slipping. I mean sawdust in the oil pan, pepper in the radiator.... oh I can go on all day. Jk'in you did the right thing man but for the record a beer can and green locktite she'd been good as new :). Cheers buddy!
Spotted Cow comes in a can too.
Or Yuengling.
We call that the “Chicago Rebuild”, a tube of super glue and a sixer of Milwaukee’s Best…
@@WatchWesWork Had a Dana 44 out of a Jeep years ago with the same deal. Got some copper foil ~0.001" thick and wrapped the bearing race with it. Heard from a friend of a friend that that Jeep is still chuggin' away.
Excellent~Wes loves rust! Nice to see you "Lovely Assistant"!
Great video Wes. Thank you for sharing the content. I’ll never do this job, but it sure is fun watching you do it rather effortlessly. Your son is growing fast. Amazing change from videos last year. Soon he’ll be helping his dad, in a productive way 🤣
I'm happy that you didn't have the same issue I had with my 2012 Ram 1500 after an axle swap. Mine was bent in an accident, so swapped in a used axle from a scrap yard. Drove it about 10 miles and the pinion bearing blew. Had to get another second hand axle and start all over.
IMO you made the right call putting a different axle in. Short of line-boring those bearing caps there was no real way to fix it and line-boing is just way too costly to justify it.
Wes having worked in the Sheet Metal trades for 28 years I've learned when operating a Grinder or cutoff wheel etc that not only does it pay
to use safety glasses, but a face shied is pretty much required as well, after all if you get (and I have) slivers in your eyes you get to watch the
doctor pull them out! and after all, eyes are not available off the shelf!
When I look in a mirror, I see the person who is most responsible for my own safety!
I have a similar hub on my Ford. The oil slinger behind the bearing ate itself and took out the bearing/oil seal. I reassembled without the slinger. If I understand it's function correctly it's intended job is to divert oil away from the seal. Not to oil the bearing so much. Good Video Wes! 👍. PS you're right the seals do suck, even with the Ford tool it's a pia.
It's surely not an essential component.
My 2004 srw f350 does not have that oil slinger. When I replaced the backing plates a couple years ago all it had was the seal on both sides
slingers are to lube the bearing, when oil level is low(up a hill) it grabs oil and slings it the upper portion and it travels down the bearing thus lubing it,
You're welcome Wes and family including Max!! 🐕
It’s cute seeing your son, he’s right about my son’s age. Time to get him doing some apprentice work prepping the vehicles for you LOL
Wes the reason for the grease in the Bering hubs on the duce and a half is that it was protection against water. The duce and a half could run through water up to 48 " and the axels and third members were supposed to be water proof, vents on the pumpkin were one-way. I leared this while in Korea in the early 70's. I really enjoy your channel you can thank Matt at Diesel Creek for suggesting it.
Another great job Wes, my only suggestion is you should have used a lube locker cover gasket (20 bucks) and you should have installed the aluminum diff cover from ford (60 bucks).
On a side note for that 10.5" to fail under 100k it had to have been submerged a time of two and left with water mixed oil. These axles are nearly bomb proof....
Good call replacing the whole diff with a used unit.
I have stepped on some bad land mine$ trying to be a $mart a$$ and replacing individual components with new ones while trying to make it work with old ones.
Don't end too well specially with parts that were assembled all new as a unit at the same time.
Good work, Wes !
Things certainly have come a long way. Back in the 70's I bought a 1962 Ford F-100 (predecessor of the F-150). Shortly thereafter I was able to obtain the actual Ford shop manual for the entire F series. 100 to 900. I had started having trouble with the rear end howling. I found out that, according to the Ford factory manual; they wanted you to set the pinion to ring lash with a common "brown paper grocery sack". I did not believe that was correct, so; I consulted a mechanic that was older than I was at the time. He said that was right and quite common. The truck is long gone, but; I still have the manual. So, the lash was variable enough that a common sack would work to set it. Not like that anymore, is it?
Not a bad trick at all. Like using a business card to set flywheel gap on small engine coils.
Interesting. I have some old manuals that show how to make your own special tools. I can't imagine that anymore. If they can't get it off the Mac Tools truck it doesn't exist.
@@WatchWesWork I have a manual that shows that as well. I think it is also a Ford manual. Somewhere around the mid 80's. That's when I got out of the business. Around the '86-'88 time frame.
Tolerances are so tight anymore there's no extra "meat" to machine down. It's one time use and throwaway. Brake rotors . Drums. We live in a throwaway society. Before too long we will loose the skills to do so. And if it doesn't have an OBD port shops don't want to work on it anymore. Nobody "fixes" things anymore its strictly R&R.
@@WatchWesWork Making your own tools is half the fun (at least for me), tho I know I've added plenty of time to my personal projects making tools but hey if it's a job I'll be doing more than once it's worth it.
First thing I saw was the cottage cheese coming out of that fill port....WATER IMMERSION!
Bearings have a rated capacity and speed for oil lubed and grease packed. Generally a grease packed bearing has a lower rated speed. Grease packed bearing have a higher dynamic load capacity, if memory serves me correctly.
Yes, junkyards do not sell certain parts due to liability. I was a car buyer for a junkyard for several years, and there were many parts that we did not resell due to liability issues. We also did not resell catalytic converters or air bags for the same reason. After the Takata air bag recall, we began pulling air bags from cars before they even went out on the yard to ensure that no one would even be able to steal them. We did not resell brake pads, rotors, drums, wheel cylinders, or hoses unless they were brand new, and customers had to sign a waiver of liability before we would resell them. We did not have any limitations on calipers or master cylinders though.
Just another great video, Wes.
Your patience continues to amaze me.
How one person can put up with so many rusted, frozen, or otherwise stuck bolts and fittings without throwing something is shocking.
There is a special place above for people like you. Your problem solutions are becoming legendary.
Congrats on another job well done.
Thanks for sharing.
Oh yeh, he just edits out the part where the impact, wrenches, pry bars, etc. go flying across the shop along with a few choice expletives.
im always fascinated by people in the south who see a little rust and panic. charge way more give up lol. dude come to northern ontario. there's a good reason the drop out rate in the trade is over 95% in first 2 years now. the ones who make it through though! ;)
If you find yourself throwing things it's time to find another line of work.
@@maplebones Carpenters throw hammers, football players throw helmets, hockey players break stick, baseball players throw bats and the beat goes on an on, it's called frustration
@@maplebones if you never let your frustration lose, you're going to end up dead
I do like ford's F-250 and the 4 wheel drive set-up. The E-locker on the rear diff is great. I used mine for snow removal and it was a tank.
Man what never happens for me is hitting a wrench with a hammer and not breaking the wrench. That's some master mechanic skill on display there. I've broken every major brand of wrench doing that.
10/10, again. Lighting, sound and comment all excellent. Grazie Mille!
when these break lines came out easy I think you're can say "I'll be dipped" :)
Plenty of light and in focus, well done, good videography.
*sludge comes out drain plug* My brain: "THERES YOUR PROBLEM LADY!"
Good ol' Eric O. at South Main Auto!
Wes. You have a beautiful family, thanks for including them,
Wes, I’d work for you for free to learn all the stuff you know. You’re an amazing mechanic and I enjoy your dry sense on humor too!
Nice. I watched a guy bring his Mustang in 6 times under warranty only to be NPF. He was about to leave for the very last time and I started to talk to the Man. Unlike most, I actually listen. I went for a Test Drive and the Guy had a noise from the Rearend, Pinion Bearings. You could just barely hear it. I made good money on the repair and kept a Customer. It doesn't get much better than that.
Mainly the vehicles from Ontario and Quebec are the ones I find to be very very very rusty, I assume its because they get milder more frequently near freezing weather that necessitates road salt application. Generally Canadian vehicles in Alberta, Saskatchewan and Manitoba don't get rustier than the average American Midwest. Nice job on the Diff swap Wes.
Road salt is only affective to around -10°C. It's just too cold in Alberta for it to be useful.
Yeah I live in northern Alberta and have never seen a frame as rusty as what he works on
@@tlr-nut7275 That's true for common sodium chloride, but they're now using calcium and magnesium chloride that are active to almost -30 C. It's mixed with water and spayed on. It's starting to show up in Alberta and Sask. and Manitoba. Road crews love it because, whether it's needed or not, it's gives them more winter work.
love how you can just make out the DO THE JOB RIGHT as your putting the hub seal in .................... great videos keep em comeing
Looks like water intrusion killed that differential pitting the steel and rusting the vent shut. Should of been checked once in a while.
Probably just sat for a while
If should have did, there would be less work for repairmen.
Wes with the noise and the metal on the plug I would of stopped right there and swapped it out. The yards in Columbus, Ohio sell brake parts no problem. Thanks Wes, good video.
32:34 Is there a reason to not do that with a press, either an arbor press or a full-on hydraulic press? I think you have both, I know you've got the full-on press at a minimum. It just seems like a lot of work goes into hitting it and keeping it even/straight when you could just make a little adaptor that holds the installation tool squarely on the front of the press ram and then give it a good old-fashioned hydraulic shove...
Awesome video.
Looked like some real carnage in that rear end.
Even a surgeon of mechanical skills couldn’t rebuild that carnage..
17:08 Junk Yards here in Europe do the same. Especially in recent years, it's become more and more difficult to find old parts. Unless you have friends on the inside and good relations, you're stuffed if you have old stuff. CV19 hasn't made things easier either.
you have a knack for filming these things by yourself, i know it's not easy. the quality and sound is excellent.
I can smell this video
For a 2010 that one sweet truck. Great video Wes.
Always glad to see the Huffle Puff Towing & Brake Bleeding Service in action. Is there a back story on the fire she started?
You don't want to know...
@@WatchWesWork 😂🤣👍
@@WatchWesWork Do too!
@@WatchWesWork yeah we do, if not here, then on your next live stream!
I'd at least like to hear the double entendre that couldn't make it in the final cut
Good work, my man. You are very talented and skilled. It's neat to see your son being interested in his book.
Definitely looks like water intrusion destroyed that axle! Only 130.000 miles.
Pretty good that the gears showed no wear even with the crapola gear lube
Wes in 1982 I did a GMC C35, someone had been into it before me. They had not tightened up the differential side bearing cap bolts. I took 0.005” off each bearing cap, then used Locktite red stud and bearing to safety it.
That pickup was a farm service pickup, if it put 5,000 miles a year on it was a lot. Later I found out that when the motor went out, the owner gave it to someone else who put it into a another C35 to convert from single wheels to dual wheels.
Last I had heard the new owner put over 100,000 miles on it. I told the new owner what I had done. He commented that I must have done something correct!
Did water get into the differential oil. Kind of looks like it.
Hello from north east Montana.
10 miles from the Canadian border.
Even with the $20/gal coolant for my Toyota, I simply cannot imagine a situation where I would ever consider using used coolant outside of an emergency situation.
Who would?
I can only imagine it's priced at the cost of disposal and after 6 months on the shelf, can be written off as a loss to claim back the cost of getting rid of it.
@@jonathan1427 honestly that makes a lot more sense than the idea of someone reusing it.
Used coolant is great for those of us who have a lot of junk projects sitting around that need to be winterized. They practically give the stuff away.
Filling tractor tyres for extra weight. Personally I just use water, but used anti-freeze is a popular choice in places where freezing is a consideration.
Great video reminds me when I use to rebuild gearboxes at a factory
With this video, you don’t need smell-o-vision
Probably would have smelled like sulfur soaked in rancid pond water. Pretty much sums up the kind of smell you get when you have past-due for a change axle oil, mixed with water.
enjoy watching you work and the condition of the shop, just like my favorite now retired Mechanic..
I've seen some pretty bad diff lube but holy smokes, Yikes cha ching