Awesome little engine.:) I've got one in my 89 Bayliner Capri. It's still point ignition, so no crank sensor.:) The engine had sat outside for 20 years and the owner said wouldn't run. Re-arranged the ignition wires and it fired right up, tuned up and now have 26 hours on it. Runs like new.:)
They are great little engines as long as you don't let them get hot. They like to crack the head. I've also discovered that rebuilders don't quite know what they are doing with them. More to come on that
@@NotSoGrandGarage True, I'll pull an oil analysis after this summers boating and see how it's doing. It took me two boats to make one and I have a spare 2.3 with either a cracked block, head or blown head gasket. I haven't pulled it apart to find out but when time permits I'll have a look. Keeping it for spares.:)
Good mechanics generally find a better way! If engineers had to work on the stuff they design they wouldn’t made stuff so hard to work on! Great job buddy! 👍👍👍👍🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🙏🙏🙏🙏
@johnnybrown1036 gotcha. So if you look down under the intake near the timing cover, you should see where the harness comes up. Now at some point, they changed sensor design. If yours is different, I'm not sure.
question, how do ik this is forsure my problem and not a fuel pump issue? the car will start like nothing after sitting for a long while/overnight but the moment i come back from the store it just cranks and cranks but won’t start
To rule out the fuel pump, you'd need to test for fuel pressure at the fuel rail. I would bet that your issue is the ignition control module. Common problem on them.
@@NotSoGrandGarage way ahead of you i replaced that $200 part a while, it was worse beforehand kept on miss firing and now it drives like nothing. Replaced a coil pack and spark plug wires too so it kinda rules out anything electrical under the hood (i hope); I’ll try testing the fuel rail but i mean i keep smelling gas when I crank it so it has to be getting fuel just probably not delivered to a certain amount
@@jalenrodriguez4733 is it throwing any codes? Could be something stupid like a coolant temp sensor. If it's bad and stuck really cold, it'll flood and not run good if at all.
@@NotSoGrandGarage yea i’ve ran for codes w/ obd1 ford system and it kinda threw out stupid codes the egr valve, fuel regulator, o2 sensor (i dunno why which is strange since there’s not a check engine light). However i have cleaned these parts extensively many times with carb cleaner and a small brush so ik those are not the issue; fixed a couple of vacuum lines along the way too. I thought about the coolant sensor but i need to locate it on this 92 mustang. I dunno if this plays into effect but the heater isn’t that strong as for say what you get out of a 5.0 of that generation. Whether it’s for the inventions of the time or not it takes a awhile to get warm and dies down when you drive around; so could it be running under temp? maybe but this thing has a factory electric fan that doesn’t engage until it reaches a fail-safe temp
@@NotSoGrandGarage I put a new timing belt on my 1994 2.3 Ranger a couple weeks ago. I had also ordered a CPS but I didn't install it because it looked to difficult. Checking my codes I got one that may be related to the CPS so I watched your video yesterday and went down to the garage this morning and slapped it on using your method. Truck runs great. Thanks
What about just keeping the same original connector, cutting where the old sensor is and splicing in the new sensor without having to reroute the new cable? LOL
You could probably get away with it.. but all things considered, its easy enough to change it. If there is an issue with the 30+ year old connector or wiring, then you'll be doing it anyways.
Awesome little engine.:) I've got one in my 89 Bayliner Capri. It's still point ignition, so no crank sensor.:) The engine had sat outside for 20 years and the owner said wouldn't run. Re-arranged the ignition wires and it fired right up, tuned up and now have 26 hours on it. Runs like new.:)
They are great little engines as long as you don't let them get hot. They like to crack the head. I've also discovered that rebuilders don't quite know what they are doing with them. More to come on that
@@NotSoGrandGarage True, I'll pull an oil analysis after this summers boating and see how it's doing. It took me two boats to make one and I have a spare 2.3 with either a cracked block, head or blown head gasket. I haven't pulled it apart to find out but when time permits I'll have a look. Keeping it for spares.:)
Good mechanics generally find a better way! If engineers had to work on the stuff they design they wouldn’t made stuff so hard to work on! Great job buddy! 👍👍👍👍🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🙏🙏🙏🙏
That's no joke. Lol. Thanks for watching
Thank you so much for this! Very informative and detailed! Having to replace my sensor and this video helped tremendously!
No problem and glad it was helpful.
Can you show us how to get the crankshaft gear out? Thanks.
Engine and truck are long gone out of the shop. Likely a press fit but not sure.
Nice video thank you. I have a 92 2.3. I do not see where the crankshaft position sensor plugs into. Any help would be appreciated.
Harness connector should be under the intake behind the alternator.
@@NotSoGrandGarage my alternator is on the passenger side.
@johnnybrown1036 gotcha. So if you look down under the intake near the timing cover, you should see where the harness comes up. Now at some point, they changed sensor design. If yours is different, I'm not sure.
@@NotSoGrandGarage yeah i don't see the wires coming up from the sensor on the drive side at all. Lost
I found where it plugged in. Replaced it and still crank no start. How do I test the new sensor with a multi meter?
question, how do ik this is forsure my problem and not a fuel pump issue? the car will start like nothing after sitting for a long while/overnight but the moment i come back from the store it just cranks and cranks but won’t start
To rule out the fuel pump, you'd need to test for fuel pressure at the fuel rail. I would bet that your issue is the ignition control module. Common problem on them.
@@NotSoGrandGarage way ahead of you i replaced that $200 part a while, it was worse beforehand kept on miss firing and now it drives like nothing. Replaced a coil pack and spark plug wires too so it kinda rules out anything electrical under the hood (i hope); I’ll try testing the fuel rail but i mean i keep smelling gas when I crank it so it has to be getting fuel just probably not delivered to a certain amount
@@jalenrodriguez4733 is it throwing any codes? Could be something stupid like a coolant temp sensor. If it's bad and stuck really cold, it'll flood and not run good if at all.
@@NotSoGrandGarage yea i’ve ran for codes w/ obd1 ford system and it kinda threw out stupid codes the egr valve, fuel regulator, o2 sensor (i dunno why which is strange since there’s not a check engine light). However i have cleaned these parts extensively many times with carb cleaner and a small brush so ik those are not the issue; fixed a couple of vacuum lines along the way too. I thought about the coolant sensor but i need to locate it on this 92 mustang. I dunno if this plays into effect but the heater isn’t that strong as for say what you get out of a 5.0 of that generation. Whether it’s for the inventions of the time or not it takes a awhile to get warm and dies down when you drive around; so could it be running under temp? maybe but this thing has a factory electric fan that doesn’t engage until it reaches a fail-safe temp
@@jalenrodriguez4733 Have you removed the EGR valve and made sure the valve itself isn't stuck open?
Excellent!
Thanks for watching
@@NotSoGrandGarage I put a new timing belt on my 1994 2.3 Ranger a couple weeks ago. I had also ordered a CPS but I didn't install it because it looked to difficult. Checking my codes I got one that may be related to the CPS so I watched your video yesterday and went down to the garage this morning and slapped it on using your method. Truck runs great. Thanks
What about just keeping the same original connector, cutting where the old sensor is and splicing in the new sensor without having to reroute the new cable? LOL
You could probably get away with it.. but all things considered, its easy enough to change it. If there is an issue with the 30+ year old connector or wiring, then you'll be doing it anyways.