2009 was the last year for rear drum brakes and the 3 channel ABS. 2010 and 2011 Rangers were rear disc brakes and a 4 channel ABS system. So if you are going to swap a 2010/2011 disc brake rear axle I don’t know how you are going to hook everything up and still have working ABS. I believe that the 3 channel ABS runs from a signal from the tone ring and the 4 channel system runs off of sensors on each hub. Wether a 2009 or older 2 wheel drive Ranger has 9” or 10” rear drums depends on if it was the standard payload (9”) or heavy duty payload (10”).
Awesome confirmation of my previous research. Also, if you didn't know. If you want a stronger limited slip action out of the factory trac-lok carrier, you can do a number of things. Number 1 is obviously to rebuild it with fresh clutches and plates. But, beyond that you can get carbon fiber clutches, as well as repack the system so it has one more clutch disc and one less metal disc per side. Doing that and changing your breakaway torque setting will give you a much stronger limited-slip action. Another "hack" is that when it starts to wear out or feels worn out, you can reshim it several times and keep going on the same clutches. This is something you're told to do anyway after the first 1000 miles on a new set to adjust for break-in. Furthermore, you can run without any friction modifier for more aggressiveness, but I've read that it will make the diff a little noisy/chattery. You can also shim just the right side a little more than normal if you find that you can do donuts counter-clockwise but not clockwise. A sign of a "time to work on it" trac-lok pack is if it'll lay two stripes going straight, but one-wheels when you try a donut of any kind. Donuts CCW but not CW are normal for an unadjusted diff, and a perfectly adjusted diff with clutches in good shape will spin both regardless of rotation. And THAT'S what you really want! I'm gonna save up my money and yank and explorer axle. An inch or so wider+disc brakes+31 spline+8.8+limited slip will suit me rather exquisitely in the future here with the ideas I have for my Ranger. Thanks for the vid, bro.
Only thing I would do is actually get a 4.0 Ranger axle tube, as it has the leaf spring perches where they need to be, and makes installation much easier. Installation is easier because the spring perches on the Explorer axle have to be welded, if you drop it directly into a Ranger rear end.
@@isaiahwelch8066 They need to be on the bottom like they would be on an Explorer, actually. I want my truck lowered. Gonna go with an expo axle, expo springs, flipped extended shackle hangers (to negate the 2" of drop flipping would normally give) and then drop arms on the front, maybe springs too, if I want it low-low.
I went to the junk yard and got a 8.8 for my 98 and sand blasted it then gutted it and replaced everything and put a 5.13 gears in it and put a 6.5 in lift on the rear and front and put new10x15 corvette rally rims with new 35 inch tires on back and 33 on the front and its just a 4 banger with a automatic and is alot zippier than the 7.5 with 4.10 gears with 14 inch tiny wheels , I use it to go back and forth to work or go to town and the top speed limit sign is 50 so it does real good and haven't tried any hiways but then again I don't need to go on one for anything .
ok and so how fast is the range at .6 seconds and what do you get on mpg ?? im very curiouse ..what did that cost you ?? where did you get the 8.8 from ??
So how did the axle fit under the truck? I know rangers have a slightly off center driveshaft so the axle lengths right and left are different and they're not all the same for all 8.8's from '98-'11.
Just bought a Mazda B2300, (it's a rebadged Ford) about four hours ago off of Facebook. (Will finalize deal and drive home Wednesday.) So I need to get to know the Ranger better. Thanks for the info.
@@samuelyeet6006 It's worked out good. I paid $900.00 and drove it home. It puked and lost power from "flooding" a couple times. But, after cutting it off for five minutes, it was ready to go again. Turned out, when I got it home, the kid I bought it from had maxed out the idle adjustment. The intake choke was carboned up real bad, and one coil pack was loose on the spark plug end. Well, a couple of days just tinkering with it got me running pretty smooth. It is an OBD 2 code reader system, so I couldn't find one of those locally. I just adjusted things by feel and by ear. Now, a month plus into it, I feel good about it. It's a 4cyl with an automatic, so you can't expect a hot rod. But, I get 22+ mph doing 60 on the highway. I had to put a windshield in it, so all total, I'm under $1250.00 for a small, but very functional, truck. I think it was as very much worth all the effort, as I'm sure it would be listed at about $2999.00 on a used car lot.
They are literally the same truck just different brand. 2.3 is awesome lil engine purge solenoid most likely is your problem it was on mine. Enjoy I love mine 7 foot box 2300 stick 2 wheel drive.
This information is top shelf but beyond my mechanical ability and knowledge. I love my 2003 Ford Ranger and want to upgrade but yeah, limited ability. Great video!
Ability comes from learning. Take it slow and learn as much as you can as you go, it's all doable. I refer to YT as "the idiot's little helper" because I am constantly looking at how people did things so this idiot can get it done. I'm tearing my truck down to the frame and building it back up as an overlander. Massive modifications most of which I have never done, but? Someone else has always done it and can almost always find good instruction on YT or forums or articles or w/e.
When I bought my 2003 Ranger in 2008, I knew next to nothing about cars. But I knew at that time I was in no position to pay a mechanic every time I had a problem. So anytime there was a problem, I learned. And today I'd say I'm fairly knowledgeable and always do the work myself. The Ranger is an amazing platform to learn to wrench on.
You can upgrade by going to junk yard and reading the tag on diff plate cover or door number . You can easily switch gears and pinion or trade out complete rearends. DO NOT go to AAMCO transmission. Any knowledge you have, trumps any employee they have nation wide
its all good if you have a rear wheel drive truck but you had better change the front to the same ratio if you have a 4x4 truck otherwise first time in 4x4 you will be carrying parts home when you make that walk
I've been dragging a explorer 8.8 with discs, 4.10 r\p, and lsd since 2016, but I never installed it. I picked a second ranger and am going to install it while I am overhauling that one this fall. I have the clutch kit and bracket kit, but still need a few brake components.
Well, I traded for the truck, trading an 87 ford bronco that is in my little picture. I don’t know whats all on the inside yet but its got headers and it has a 750 edlebrock and that is big for a 302 so there is something going on inside because it does not bog down when slammed to the floor. It will get it!!
It bolts right in, it's really not a complicated procedure. Well I am going to get back to building a plug and play stand alone ecu, now that isn't simple mod.
I upgraded my 2003 xl long bed from a 8.8 3.55 open to 4.10 trac-lok and changed from the small 15" steel wheels to oem aluminum 16" with 235/70 Michelin all season tires. I also upgraded to 2003 mustang cobra rear disc brakes and didn't need to touch the proportioning valve. They don't stop any better but they are way lighter and never lose adjustment like drums. The truck has a 4.0 sohc and 5 speed auto. 2003 did not come with EGR so they get better fuel economy. I thought I would get worse mileage with the lower gearing but I rarely drive on the highway and make mostly short trips around town. I was surprised to gain a little over 1 mpg along with much better acceleration. I fill up every time the fuel light comes on and average 340 miles on 16.5 to 17 gallons and drive it kind hard, accelerating quickly and making no effort to save fuel. I've been running this for the last 10 years and only put 75,000 miles on it in that time.
Fuel mileage DOES NOT IMPROVE with gear ratio change unless you match the engine RPM and torque with your driving needs. Often guys get better gas mileage, after upsizing tires, by changing gear ratio numerically higher, e.g. 3.73-1 to 4.10-1 etc.
I ended up doing a 2001 Explorer 8.8" on my 1992 Ranger. Couldn't resist going with 3.73 gears, LSD, rear disc brakes and to top it off it only cost me $100 for the unit. Keep in mind that if you go with an Explorer unit you'll need to cut and weld a few of the mounts.
One word of advice about rear brake upgrades: If you go with rear disc brakes, you'll need the anchor plate, which is what bolts to the axle tube, and what the caliper hardware bolts to. Also, I highly recommend getting a proportioning valve for your braking balance. I've learned this the hard way, as I upgraded to '94-'04 Mustang rear disc brakes, and still keep blowing out the right rear caliper. For some reason, the brake fluid pressure going to the Mustang rear calipers is too much for the caliper to handle, using the stock Ranger brake system. About going for fuel economy via a lower gear ratio: If you have a manual trans, make sure your engine has enough torque to overcome the diminished diameter of your rear gears, otherwise you'll prematurely wear out your clutch. Again, a hard lesson learned, as I went from a stock 3.45 gear ratio (7.5" open axle) to a 3.08 gear ratio (8.8" open axle). Due to me having a 2.3 Lima motor that was already worn when I bought the truck, changing to that low of a gear ratio literally prevented me from being able to shift into Overdrive, as I would shift, and the gearing would literally drop my speed from 60 mph to 45 mph -- and make me shift back down to 4th gear. However, a solution would be to get a donor 5-speed Mustang transmission that bolts up to a 2.3 Lima block, since the 2.3 came in both the Mustang and Ranger. What this would do is eliminate the Overdrive gear, and give you basically an actual 5th gear, as a 5th gear from the Mustang trans has the same ratio as the Ranger's 4th gear: 1:1. That is to say, the engine RPMs and transmission RPMS is the same. Having learned these things, I'm upgrading my 2.3 Lima to a 2.5 Lima, basically, by putting the rotating 2.5 assembly in a 2.3 Lima block, so I don't have to screw with changing out wiring and ECMs. The other thing I'm going to try and do is find an 8.8 axle for a Ranger with 3.73 gearing, that way I don't have to constantly shift from Overdrive down to 4th.
2.5 is the way to go honestly, I love mine and it looks stock. I got a spare 3.73 rear end out of 10 ranger with disk brakes, I've been contemplating, but drum brakes been working just fine.
@@everydayirace : My problem is, I absolutely despise drum brakes, because when you have to do anything to them, usually the star adjuster is seized, and it makes getting the drums off a PITA. Second, I hate dealing with the springs and other tensioned hardware. The last time I dealt with drums, those brakes had not been touched in so long that it became an all-day job -- which was not helped by both axle seals being blown out, and the rear diff oil being sprayed all over on the inside of the drum. That job was one of the messiest and longest jobs I had ever done on my truck -- and I've messed around with the clutch system more than anything, along with removing the transmission. Compared to a drum brake job, doing a clutch or transmission job is way, way easier. Even doing plugs & wires, a timing belt job, or a head gasket is not nearly as time-consuming or painful as drum brakes are, on a Ranger.
@@isaiahwelch8066 I changed my axle seals last week and swapped transmission out last night, it was actually enjoyable 😂, I don't enjoy working on drum brakes, but they last a long time, in all honesty explorer rear disk brakes are much worse, that e brake set inside of the rotor is stuck half the time I have to pull an axle, good thing I bring my bfh, it solves all the problems.
@@everydayirace : That's why I went with Mustang brakes originally. Basically, the idea is, that with the intermediate piece of E-Brake cabling from a '95+ Explorer, you can interchange the stock Ranger E-Brake cabling to the Mustang rear disc brakes -- which, by the way, don't use the Explorer design, but rather actually have a coil spring and hook on the caliper casing, in order to actually lock in place the caliper piston (when you engage the emergency brakes). Only thing I hate about doing axle seals? The smell of the gear oil, lol, because that shite stinks! Lol
If you plan to change to disc brakes, the 2011 differential uses axles with a toner wheel on the back . The right axle has problems with the hardness that causes the bearing to damage the axle. The axles are not available unless explorer axles will work.
Depends on what your doing when ever your changing any gear ratio it always a trade off between torque and acceleration so in other words if you got a light vehicle and you want to get up and go faster and you have alot of torqe already and you dont plan on pulling any heavy loads its a good idea to have a higher gear ratio but if you do this you will loose torque
Super informative video! I'm looking for a 4.10 8.8 for my '04 B2300. Do you know of any vehicles that came with that setup I could scavenge a rear end from?
Also if you can’t find any information on the rear end you can Jack the rear end up and rotate the tire 1 full revolution mark a line on the tire and the fender well and mark a line on the rear end and the driveshaft. Then rotate the wheel one full revolution and have somebody lay under the car and count how many times it makes a complete circle and then you can guesstimate like if it rotates 3 and 3/4 turns it’s 3.73. 4.10 would be 4 and one tenth of a turn. If it’s open differential you gotta leave one tire on the ground. It’s not exact science but an old car guy showed me that trick… That’s awesome though, I didn’t know ford had an axle code in the door. I knew about the tab on the rear end though. Thanks for the info.
I built an explorer 8.8 with a rebuilt traction lock with carbon discs and 456's for my 97 2wd. I have plans to run some 31's and the lower ration will suite my needs extra well. Im still trying to find a donor 2.5 lima to drop in it
there is a 4th option. A TRU TRAC limited slip, has worm gears instead of clutches. i got one in my 08 ranger 2.3 5 speed standard. It hasthe 7.5 inch. so far no problems with it 40,000 k since install, (30,000 miles)
Interesting. I'm refurbishing a 2005 Ford Courier Crew Cab 2WD. It is basically the same as these. Mine has the 4.0l SOHC V6 but has an auto behind it. I'll have to see what the diff is now.
@@everydayirace I initially meant that it had all the characteristics you impressed upon us. I was foolishly misunderstanding that it would bolt right in though. I suppose we'd save money by buying it at a junk yard then having a mechanic install it though right?
Do you know how to fully disable the traction control? I hate it and when the Temps go above 70 the light comes on when depressing the brake and putting it in drive and it actually can prevent me from getting into gear smoothly. I think it's the break sensor switch. Rather than replacing it I just want to disable this traction control all together. These rangers are great in the snow and if it slips I don't need this nanny nonsense. I have a 4x4. Good vid man.
I don't know what year your truck is, I am guessing 2010-2011, those years came with stabilitrack (traction control), but traction control doesn't have anything to do with truck going in the gear, traction control either cuts power to engine, applies brakes, or does combination of the 2 when it sees wheel slip. I would look somewhere else if you have problems shifting transmission in drive.
@@everydayirace 2011 what's weird is its only hard to get into gear when that damn light comes on. If I tap on the brake pedal a few times I can feel it click so speak and then my column shifter engages freely. It's weird man. This light also never comes on when it's cold and I have zero issues getting it into gear unless that light comes on. I have just rolled with it the last two years but it's annoying in the summer months to say the least.
@@jonesey1981 not sure never fixed it. I just have to tap the brake pedal one or two more times and it unlocks the column shifter. Its winter now and it never does it in cold weather. Summer time I just deal with it.
Great info, very smart thoughts. I'm wanting to either swap engine and put the 3.8 super charged tbird or wondering if the supercharger manifold will fit on my 4.0! Anyone have any ideas or info on this would really appreciate it.... Cheers
There is a kit to put a 5 liter motor in the Ranger. Last I checked it was around $475. Motor mounts, headers included. But you need the transmission, from a fox body mustang would be great. I left the 2.5 liter 4 banger in mine!! Gas mileage and durability. Got a f150
@@everydayirace yes, but let's face it, he's asking about hopping up the 4 liter!?. The kit to install a 5 liter is under $500! I'll leave my 2.5 in mine, already got a FX 4 eating me outta house and home!! I'd suggest a diner totaled fox body, I got a 78 Fairmont wagon screaming at me, 351 Windsor, got aluminum heads already, but I'll turn 61 on 2 weeks! Got a TCI c4. 373 gears and a 100 shot of gas!! Think I'll just take my grandson fishing.
One package and different axle u forgot was the 09 to 11 fx4 ranger rear diffs which is an 8.8 with 410s and a torsen limited slip with I believe either 31 or 32 spline axles
I need some advice on what would work best for me with what differential upgrade I have a 99 ford ranger 4.0 2wd i have a 3 in lift with 32’s falkensat3w I do some moderate trails and want to be somewhat confident in snow nothing crazy But I would say most of the time I’m on the road
i got a 95 ranger 2wd 4cyl 5 speed manual i want to do some upgrades but i dont really know about this stuff. whats the best upgrades i can do for better acceleration and smooth gear change
If you have 4 wheel disc brakes its so much safer as disc brakes are less likly to lock up where as the Drums lock up quick "experience" from a car that had 4 wheel drum! but I am wondering about the Pinion line up.... I bought a 8.8 that I am trans planting from a 96 Explorer to a 1967 Plymouth Barracuda ,"I know" dont tell me About putting ford Parts in a Mopar, good Mopar rear axles are extreamly Hard to find and cost an arm a leg and my first born, but is the pinion line from the Transmission to the Axle angled toward the pass side? i would like to know so I am not messing up alignment when installing.
You'd have to search on Mopar forums, Ford Chevy and dodge did it their own way, and unfortunately I never paid attention how dodge did it, so I don't know.
I have a 2010 ford ranger with aluminum 15 in rims that came standard with the truck 4 cyl engine i went to buy identical rims at the wreckers unfornately they were off a older ford ranger i think its 2010 2011 rangers that have the disc brakes on the rear. The older rims although they look identical will not fit on the rear because the roter hits on the inside of the rim they will fit on the front so keep that in mind
@@everydayirace So you are saying it's not possible to gain any low end torque? Or to pick up some torque in the lower rpms to have a flat torque line? I'm not trying to turn a 4 cyl. Into a v8. I'm trying to maximize the low end torque so I can tow more and get up hills.
Most likely a 7.5 inch open diff one wheel peel in either 3 42 or 3.73 ratio. You can check your door like he showed you or you can also check out the tag on your diff cover bolt
I come here look for better feul economy. My truck engine runs at about 3,500 rpm at highway speeds. Is this a normal rpm? I have been trying to find out and not having any success. What speeds and rpm does a regular truck run?
Look up an online engine speed calculator and put all your truck info, such as gear ratio, tire size and transmission gear ratio and you'll have your answer.
I have an 7.5 in rear end open diff. I had all the rear drum brakes replaced, Drums, shoes, hardware and adjusters. MY ebrake is tightened up but my ebrake peddal goes all the way to the floor and barely catches, what could cause that?
broken e-brake cable. I just did this repair. Get under the truck and see if theres a cable there with slack in it. If not it may have broken from behind the pedal. it's not a fun repair, but it's fairly simple. just make sure you watch the part about getting an extra inch by pushing the pedal gearing down when you go to reinstall it or you'll never get the cable to seat in the little pinch nut thing that connects them.
@@jonesey1981 @jonesey1981 the left cable sags now and it didnt prior to having the brakes done. I am wondering if they put the cable back in the drum right. It goes around the little pin inside
You don't need to find an old ranger with a torson diff. EATON makes a torson diff. that will fit the Ranger. I put one in a 2011; so far so good. Under normal circumstances it is like an open diff, then when one wheel rotates too much more than the other it locks up both wheels. Eventually it unlocks. No need to turn it on or off. It just does it automatically. No air, no electricity, no cables.
@@everydayirace Rotation determines speed. With the bigger ratio you speed will be inaccurate. Going from a 373 to a 410 will show you going faster than you really are and the opposite is true. Yes, taller tires can alter your speed a little. Going from 15's (generally stock on those models) to 18's or 20's will have a BIG impact on your speedometer. Especially at highway speeds. Dealers can recalibrate your speedometer readings if you change tire sizes.
@@everydayirace More teeth the more pulses and vice versa. Speed sensors read the rotation of the front wheels on a 2wd. Rear is read off the differential.
@@everydayirace I've been very lucky in general with my truck. I take care of it, grandpa got it for me when I was 14 before he died. It had 150k then. I'm 22 now. Zero common ranger issues in 300k miles. I've had to replace the clutch at 240k miles, crank sensor at 170k, fuel pump at 195k, computer at 230k. Just had the engine rebuilt at 295k only because she was getting a little tired, still had life left though. I'm gonna try to get to 500k. Rear end is getting tired, but I think it will be fine for another 75k. I change the fluid every 30k miles along with the transmission and transfer case fluid. I only use the truck mostly for my vacation trips, taking her on another 3400 mile trip in a week, mostly highway use has probably preserved it.
@@ThatOneVideo1 maintenance is the key, sounds like you were on top of it. Rebuilding rear end is pretty easy, I am sure you can do it. I made a video how to rebuild a trac lok, just haven't had time to upload it.
i dropped in a yukon posi trac unit with a 4.10 ratio in my 7.5 rear end. also swapped the clutch fan for a electric fan. that's about all you can do for power in a 2.3 ranger until you get into a complete rebuild lol
My 7.5 diff is whining slightly. I want to up grade to the 8.8 LS. Open diff sucks cause I live in th mountains of Va. And the damn truck will get stuck in wet grass...lol
Hi, I have a 2010 Ford Ranger that has an axle code 96. Which is an open 8.8 with 3:73 gears. I placed 32 inch tires on the truck. If I swapped to a 4:10 gear would it help with acceleration? Does it matter that its open and not limited since its a 4x4? Once in 4 wheel drive all tires should actively rotate.
Higher numerical gear ratio helps with acceleration, since it's a 4x4, you have to change gears in front and rear differentials. Limited slip will have better traction than open differential.
@@everydayirace Thanks, I plugged in my tire size into a gear ratio calculator and it says 3.98 is ideal. So I assume I need to go with 4.10. I'm gonna see what a shop will charge to swap out front and rear gears and convert to a limited slip.
Need some help i have a 04 4.0 4wd ranger it used to have to 8.8 with 4.10 i believe the last owner swapped it out for a 7.5 with 3.73 can it put 4.10 into my 7.5 rear end and get the same performance as having 4.10 in an 8.8?
4:10 is gonna give you more grunt on the bottom end. Better for off roading. 3.73 less torque on the bottom better for free way driving lower rpm's at highway speeds. I have 3.73 and mine is still a pig on gas lol.
Yes, you just have to keep gear ratios the same in the front and rear axle......meaning if you want to change to 4.10 gear ratio in the rear, you'll have to change it to 4.10 in the front axle as well.
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Glad I'm not the only one having a blast at the junk yard
My favorite place to go 😂.
Am I missing something?
@@christiancatalan707 It's simple really. Boys play with their balls(soccer, football, baseball, golf etc..) while men play with their cars.
I love wrenching on weekends
I love the results wrenching
Best review on TH-cam about differentials for Ford ranger. Thank you so much sir.
You're welcome, 👍.
Been driving Rangers since 99 and never knew ANY of this. AWESOME video
Thanks brother!
2009 was the last year for rear drum brakes and the 3 channel ABS. 2010 and 2011 Rangers were rear disc brakes and a 4 channel ABS system. So if you are going to swap a 2010/2011 disc brake rear axle I don’t know how you are going to hook everything up and still have working ABS. I believe that the 3 channel ABS runs from a signal from the tone ring and the 4 channel system runs off of sensors on each hub.
Wether a 2009 or older 2 wheel drive Ranger has 9” or 10” rear drums depends on if it was the standard payload (9”) or heavy duty payload (10”).
Very helpful, I have a 2003 ranger.
Want to upgrade to a limited slip differential. Thanks 👍
Awesome confirmation of my previous research. Also, if you didn't know. If you want a stronger limited slip action out of the factory trac-lok carrier, you can do a number of things. Number 1 is obviously to rebuild it with fresh clutches and plates. But, beyond that you can get carbon fiber clutches, as well as repack the system so it has one more clutch disc and one less metal disc per side. Doing that and changing your breakaway torque setting will give you a much stronger limited-slip action.
Another "hack" is that when it starts to wear out or feels worn out, you can reshim it several times and keep going on the same clutches. This is something you're told to do anyway after the first 1000 miles on a new set to adjust for break-in. Furthermore, you can run without any friction modifier for more aggressiveness, but I've read that it will make the diff a little noisy/chattery. You can also shim just the right side a little more than normal if you find that you can do donuts counter-clockwise but not clockwise.
A sign of a "time to work on it" trac-lok pack is if it'll lay two stripes going straight, but one-wheels when you try a donut of any kind. Donuts CCW but not CW are normal for an unadjusted diff, and a perfectly adjusted diff with clutches in good shape will spin both regardless of rotation. And THAT'S what you really want!
I'm gonna save up my money and yank and explorer axle. An inch or so wider+disc brakes+31 spline+8.8+limited slip will suit me rather exquisitely in the future here with the ideas I have for my Ranger. Thanks for the vid, bro.
Yes, but the stronger limited slip action, the quicker it will wear out 95% of the time, there is a fine balance between the 2.
@@everydayirace Indeed. As long as mine lays two strips in any direction of burnout, donut, or drift, I'm happy.
Only thing I would do is actually get a 4.0 Ranger axle tube, as it has the leaf spring perches where they need to be, and makes installation much easier. Installation is easier because the spring perches on the Explorer axle have to be welded, if you drop it directly into a Ranger rear end.
@@isaiahwelch8066 They need to be on the bottom like they would be on an Explorer, actually. I want my truck lowered. Gonna go with an expo axle, expo springs, flipped extended shackle hangers (to negate the 2" of drop flipping would normally give) and then drop arms on the front, maybe springs too, if I want it low-low.
I went to the junk yard and got a 8.8 for my 98 and sand blasted it then gutted it and replaced everything and put a 5.13 gears in it and put a 6.5 in lift on the rear and front and put new10x15 corvette rally rims with new 35 inch tires on back and 33 on the front and its just a 4 banger with a automatic and is alot zippier than the 7.5 with 4.10 gears with 14 inch tiny wheels , I use it to go back and forth to work or go to town and the top speed limit sign is 50 so it does real good and haven't tried any hiways but then again I don't need to go on one for anything .
ok and so how fast is the range at .6 seconds and what do you get on mpg ?? im very curiouse ..what did that cost you ?? where did you get the 8.8 from ??
Thanks man, I have an f150 but this still provided the basics I need to know in order to increase my towing capacity.
So how did the axle fit under the truck? I know rangers have a slightly off center driveshaft so the axle lengths right and left are different and they're not all the same for all 8.8's from '98-'11.
Love the description, I wanna mad max my rwd 2008 ranger and improve the diff and drum brakes with calipers.
@Randall Beckett Definitely, I've been watching on Flixzone} for since november myself =)
@Randall Beckett yup, have been watching on Flixzone} for months myself :D
Just bought a Mazda B2300, (it's a rebadged Ford) about four hours ago off of Facebook. (Will finalize deal and drive home Wednesday.) So I need to get to know the Ranger better. Thanks for the info.
Did you buy it? How do you like it?
@@samuelyeet6006 It's worked out good. I paid $900.00 and drove it home. It puked and lost power from "flooding" a couple times. But, after cutting it off for five minutes, it was ready to go again.
Turned out, when I got it home, the kid I bought it from had maxed out the idle adjustment. The intake choke was carboned up real bad, and one coil pack was loose on the spark plug end.
Well, a couple of days just tinkering with it got me running pretty smooth. It is an OBD 2 code reader system, so I couldn't find one of those locally. I just adjusted things by feel and by ear.
Now, a month plus into it, I feel good about it. It's a 4cyl with an automatic, so you can't expect a hot rod. But, I get 22+ mph doing 60 on the highway.
I had to put a windshield in it, so all total, I'm under $1250.00 for a small, but very functional, truck. I think it was as very much worth all the effort, as I'm sure it would be listed at about $2999.00 on a used car lot.
They are literally the same truck just different brand. 2.3 is awesome lil engine purge solenoid most likely is your problem it was on mine. Enjoy I love mine 7 foot box 2300 stick 2 wheel drive.
This information is top shelf but beyond my mechanical ability and knowledge. I love my 2003 Ford Ranger and want to upgrade but yeah, limited ability. Great video!
Everyone starts knowing nothing at all.
Ability comes from learning. Take it slow and learn as much as you can as you go, it's all doable. I refer to YT as "the idiot's little helper" because I am constantly looking at how people did things so this idiot can get it done. I'm tearing my truck down to the frame and building it back up as an overlander. Massive modifications most of which I have never done, but? Someone else has always done it and can almost always find good instruction on YT or forums or articles or w/e.
I did a diff swap out of necessity, went to wreckers pulled it out put it in, pretty easy , just gotta get to it
When I bought my 2003 Ranger in 2008, I knew next to nothing about cars. But I knew at that time I was in no position to pay a mechanic every time I had a problem. So anytime there was a problem, I learned. And today I'd say I'm fairly knowledgeable and always do the work myself. The Ranger is an amazing platform to learn to wrench on.
You can upgrade by going to junk yard and reading the tag on diff plate cover or door number . You can easily switch gears and pinion or trade out complete rearends. DO NOT go to AAMCO transmission. Any knowledge you have, trumps any employee they have nation wide
Wow! Another great video about Ford Ranger features. Kudos, and thanks so much!!
its all good if you have a rear wheel drive truck but you had better change the front to the same ratio if you have a 4x4 truck otherwise first time in 4x4 you will be carrying parts home when you make that walk
I've been dragging a explorer 8.8 with discs, 4.10 r\p, and lsd since 2016, but I never installed it. I picked a second ranger and am going to install it while I am overhauling that one this fall. I have the clutch kit and bracket kit, but still need a few brake components.
very good video I have a 2003 ranger v6 4.0 rear traction what differential do you recommend?
I just bought one and Im doing the same thing except going to 4.10 cause Im wanting it quicker off the line and more traction! Great video thanks
4.10 are the way to go, especially if you're planning on running 31" tires.
@@everydayirace thanks for the reply! I got 275/65/15 on the rear. Little warmed over 302 so im trying to get traction and get there quickly!! Lol
What's done to the 302?
Well, I traded for the truck, trading an 87 ford bronco that is in my little picture. I don’t know whats all on the inside yet but its got headers and it has a 750 edlebrock and that is big for a 302 so there is something going on inside because it does not bog down when slammed to the floor. It will get it!!
I found 8.8 lsd with 4.10 gears today, going to get it tomorrow...
Great video, I have a question tho. So I have a 94 ford ranger 3.0v6 what should I do to the differential
Definitely change the fluid.
2002 FX4 level II torsion went out no replacement. Put in an Easton Detroit locker similar to the torsion. 4.10 rear end
Good job 👍
I watched the whole video, and learned so much, thanks for sharing!
You're welcome.
Great video man very informative. I got a 97 Ranger and I’m fixing it up like I like it.
What are you doing to it?
Mines got the 4.0 and 4.10 posi rear diff, no one tire fires here 😉
Good video, although I have to say, a new differential is a heck of “one simple mod” haha. Keep up the good work.
It bolts right in, it's really not a complicated procedure. Well I am going to get back to building a plug and play stand alone ecu, now that isn't simple mod.
@@everydayirace I feel like it would be easier to just do a swap lol
@@nickmorrison5856 that's what I did.
Just got a 95 mazda b2300 ( pretty much a ford ranger) gonna start doing simple mods like this one, that's for the info!
I'll be testing bunch of simple mods, stay tuned.
Have a question can you help me please
I upgraded my 2003 xl long bed from a 8.8 3.55 open to 4.10 trac-lok and changed from the small 15" steel wheels to oem aluminum 16" with 235/70 Michelin all season tires. I also upgraded to 2003 mustang cobra rear disc brakes and didn't need to touch the proportioning valve. They don't stop any better but they are way lighter and never lose adjustment like drums. The truck has a 4.0 sohc and 5 speed auto. 2003 did not come with EGR so they get better fuel economy. I thought I would get worse mileage with the lower gearing but I rarely drive on the highway and make mostly short trips around town. I was surprised to gain a little over 1 mpg along with much better acceleration. I fill up every time the fuel light comes on and average 340 miles on 16.5 to 17 gallons and drive it kind hard, accelerating quickly and making no effort to save fuel. I've been running this for the last 10 years and only put 75,000 miles on it in that time.
Thanks for the information!
Fuel mileage DOES NOT IMPROVE with gear ratio change unless you match the engine RPM and torque with your driving needs. Often guys get better gas mileage, after upsizing tires, by changing gear ratio numerically higher, e.g. 3.73-1 to 4.10-1 etc.
so what is the tag on the axel you have? i want the same one. also does that 8.8 bolt right up to everything no modification?
I ended up doing a 2001 Explorer 8.8" on my 1992 Ranger. Couldn't resist going with 3.73 gears, LSD, rear disc brakes and to top it off it only cost me $100 for the unit. Keep in mind that if you go with an Explorer unit you'll need to cut and weld a few of the mounts.
One word of advice about rear brake upgrades:
If you go with rear disc brakes, you'll need the anchor plate, which is what bolts to the axle tube, and what the caliper hardware bolts to. Also, I highly recommend getting a proportioning valve for your braking balance. I've learned this the hard way, as I upgraded to '94-'04 Mustang rear disc brakes, and still keep blowing out the right rear caliper. For some reason, the brake fluid pressure going to the Mustang rear calipers is too much for the caliper to handle, using the stock Ranger brake system.
About going for fuel economy via a lower gear ratio: If you have a manual trans, make sure your engine has enough torque to overcome the diminished diameter of your rear gears, otherwise you'll prematurely wear out your clutch. Again, a hard lesson learned, as I went from a stock 3.45 gear ratio (7.5" open axle) to a 3.08 gear ratio (8.8" open axle). Due to me having a 2.3 Lima motor that was already worn when I bought the truck, changing to that low of a gear ratio literally prevented me from being able to shift into Overdrive, as I would shift, and the gearing would literally drop my speed from 60 mph to 45 mph -- and make me shift back down to 4th gear.
However, a solution would be to get a donor 5-speed Mustang transmission that bolts up to a 2.3 Lima block, since the 2.3 came in both the Mustang and Ranger. What this would do is eliminate the Overdrive gear, and give you basically an actual 5th gear, as a 5th gear from the Mustang trans has the same ratio as the Ranger's 4th gear: 1:1. That is to say, the engine RPMs and transmission RPMS is the same.
Having learned these things, I'm upgrading my 2.3 Lima to a 2.5 Lima, basically, by putting the rotating 2.5 assembly in a 2.3 Lima block, so I don't have to screw with changing out wiring and ECMs. The other thing I'm going to try and do is find an 8.8 axle for a Ranger with 3.73 gearing, that way I don't have to constantly shift from Overdrive down to 4th.
2.5 is the way to go honestly, I love mine and it looks stock.
I got a spare 3.73 rear end out of 10 ranger with disk brakes, I've been contemplating, but drum brakes been working just fine.
@@everydayirace : My problem is, I absolutely despise drum brakes, because when you have to do anything to them, usually the star adjuster is seized, and it makes getting the drums off a PITA. Second, I hate dealing with the springs and other tensioned hardware. The last time I dealt with drums, those brakes had not been touched in so long that it became an all-day job -- which was not helped by both axle seals being blown out, and the rear diff oil being sprayed all over on the inside of the drum. That job was one of the messiest and longest jobs I had ever done on my truck -- and I've messed around with the clutch system more than anything, along with removing the transmission. Compared to a drum brake job, doing a clutch or transmission job is way, way easier. Even doing plugs & wires, a timing belt job, or a head gasket is not nearly as time-consuming or painful as drum brakes are, on a Ranger.
@@isaiahwelch8066 I changed my axle seals last week and swapped transmission out last night, it was actually enjoyable 😂, I don't enjoy working on drum brakes, but they last a long time, in all honesty explorer rear disk brakes are much worse, that e brake set inside of the rotor is stuck half the time I have to pull an axle, good thing I bring my bfh, it solves all the problems.
I did my body mounts 3 days ago, let me tell you, I'll take drum brakes over it any day lol.
@@everydayirace : That's why I went with Mustang brakes originally.
Basically, the idea is, that with the intermediate piece of E-Brake cabling from a '95+ Explorer, you can interchange the stock Ranger E-Brake cabling to the Mustang rear disc brakes -- which, by the way, don't use the Explorer design, but rather actually have a coil spring and hook on the caliper casing, in order to actually lock in place the caliper piston (when you engage the emergency brakes).
Only thing I hate about doing axle seals? The smell of the gear oil, lol, because that shite stinks! Lol
You may know this by now, but for the sake of sharing, Disc brake 8.8's have the parking brake shoes behind the rotor, might even be the same hook up.
If you plan to change to disc brakes, the 2011 differential uses axles with a toner wheel on the back . The right axle has problems with the hardness that causes the bearing to damage the axle. The axles are not available unless explorer axles will work.
What 8.8 limited slip rear ends will fit on a Ford ranger? I have an 89, I have no clue where to start.
Depends on what your doing when ever your changing any gear ratio it always a trade off between torque and acceleration so in other words if you got a light vehicle and you want to get up and go faster and you have alot of torqe already and you dont plan on pulling any heavy loads its a good idea to have a higher gear ratio but if you do this you will loose torque
higher gear will make it so you get off the line faster but you lose top end spend, it feels more torquey
Super informative video! I'm looking for a 4.10 8.8 for my '04 B2300. Do you know of any vehicles that came with that setup I could scavenge a rear end from?
Ford rangers came with 4.10 gears, not very common, but they did. You can also install 4.10 gears in the ranger rear end as well.
Look for the late 80's early 90's Ford Bronco 2. A lot of them had the 8.8.
4wd standard shift trucks had 4.10 gears
06 ranger edge has them level 2 package
Excellent explanation
Thank you.
Also if you can’t find any information on the rear end you can Jack the rear end up and rotate the tire 1 full revolution mark a line on the tire and the fender well and mark a line on the rear end and the driveshaft. Then rotate the wheel one full revolution and have somebody lay under the car and count how many times it makes a complete circle and then you can guesstimate like if it rotates 3 and 3/4 turns it’s 3.73. 4.10 would be 4 and one tenth of a turn. If it’s open differential you gotta leave one tire on the ground. It’s not exact science but an old car guy showed me that trick… That’s awesome though, I didn’t know ford had an axle code in the door. I knew about the tab on the rear end though. Thanks for the info.
It doesn't work very good on a non limited slip differential.
Did you choose the Axel R6 differential?
@18:10 for future reference. Great video-thanks!
I built an explorer 8.8 with a rebuilt traction lock with carbon discs and 456's for my 97 2wd. I have plans to run some 31's and the lower ration will suite my needs extra well. Im still trying to find a donor 2.5 lima to drop in it
I just talked to another guy last night that was looking for a 2.5 too lol. I see them pretty often at the junkyard.
The 2.5 is not a Lima block, though they do have the same main bearing journal size.
there is a 4th option. A TRU TRAC limited slip, has worm gears instead of clutches. i got one in my 08 ranger 2.3 5 speed standard. It hasthe 7.5 inch. so far no problems with it 40,000 k since install, (30,000 miles)
What did tru trac come in?
@@Typpyng It was aftermarket upgrade.
Interesting. I'm refurbishing a 2005 Ford Courier Crew Cab 2WD. It is basically the same as these. Mine has the 4.0l SOHC V6 but has an auto behind it. I'll have to see what the diff is now.
I got lucky and bought one this week with every damn one of these problems, lol.
Not sure if I missed it, but which years Ford Explorer have the proper rear that hits all the check marks? Thank you for the video btw.
If by check marks you means bolts right in, non of them bolt right in.
@@everydayirace I initially meant that it had all the characteristics you impressed upon us. I was foolishly misunderstanding that it would bolt right in though. I suppose we'd save money by buying it at a junk yard then having a mechanic install it though right?
@@RubenAvila Most of the time yes, unless you buy a broken one, and then it'll cost you more money to repair it.
Do you know how to fully disable the traction control? I hate it and when the Temps go above 70 the light comes on when depressing the brake and putting it in drive and it actually can prevent me from getting into gear smoothly. I think it's the break sensor switch. Rather than replacing it I just want to disable this traction control all together. These rangers are great in the snow and if it slips I don't need this nanny nonsense. I have a 4x4. Good vid man.
I don't know what year your truck is, I am guessing 2010-2011, those years came with stabilitrack (traction control), but traction control doesn't have anything to do with truck going in the gear, traction control either cuts power to engine, applies brakes, or does combination of the 2 when it sees wheel slip. I would look somewhere else if you have problems shifting transmission in drive.
@@everydayirace 2011 what's weird is its only hard to get into gear when that damn light comes on. If I tap on the brake pedal a few times I can feel it click so speak and then my column shifter engages freely. It's weird man. This light also never comes on when it's cold and I have zero issues getting it into gear unless that light comes on. I have just rolled with it the last two years but it's annoying in the summer months to say the least.
@@nyquil07na38 Maybe a neutral safety switch going out or something.
@@jonesey1981 not sure never fixed it. I just have to tap the brake pedal one or two more times and it unlocks the column shifter. Its winter now and it never does it in cold weather. Summer time I just deal with it.
I have a 1984 2.3l. Can I use a 8.8? Wich gearbox is better? I have a tk5
Thanks!
Great info, very smart thoughts. I'm wanting to either swap engine and put the 3.8 super charged tbird or wondering if the supercharger manifold will fit on my 4.0! Anyone have any ideas or info on this would really appreciate it.... Cheers
They make a kit to bolt ford m90 to 4.0sohc, use a search bar, there are bunch of videos, I just watched them few days ago 😂.
No, it won't. The 3.8 is basically a sawed off Windsor block. The 4 liter is 60° block, the 3.8 is a 90° block.
There is a kit to put a 5 liter motor in the Ranger. Last I checked it was around $475. Motor mounts, headers included. But you need the transmission, from a fox body mustang would be great. I left the 2.5 liter 4 banger in mine!! Gas mileage and durability. Got a f150
@@markmccarty727 4.2l f150 manual transmission is much easier to find and it'll bolt up to 5.0 and use same hydrolic clutch system.
@@everydayirace yes, but let's face it, he's asking about hopping up the 4 liter!?. The kit to install a 5 liter is under $500! I'll leave my 2.5 in mine, already got a FX 4 eating me outta house and home!! I'd suggest a diner totaled fox body, I got a 78 Fairmont wagon screaming at me, 351 Windsor, got aluminum heads already, but I'll turn 61 on 2 weeks! Got a TCI c4. 373 gears and a 100 shot of gas!! Think I'll just take my grandson fishing.
One package and different axle u forgot was the 09 to 11 fx4 ranger rear diffs which is an 8.8 with 410s and a torsen limited slip with I believe either 31 or 32 spline axles
What diff can i drop in my 03 2.3 manual? or recommend.
If you don’t have a ranger 8.8 with disc brakes I’d go with one from an explorer, 31 spline
I need some advice on what would work best for me with what differential upgrade
I have a 99 ford ranger 4.0 2wd i have a 3 in lift with 32’s falkensat3w
I do some moderate trails and want to be somewhat confident in snow nothing crazy But I would say most of the time I’m on the road
Torsen diff is what I would pick.
Good info... I learned a few things, thanks
Thanks for watching 👍
Great informative video man appreciate the help 👍🏽
Hi I’m over in the uk. What do you recommend to put in a 2009 Ford Ranger 2.5 4 litre for better acceleration
Numerically higher gear ratio will give you better acceleration.
4.10 gears.
i got a 95 ranger 2wd 4cyl 5 speed manual i want to do some upgrades but i dont really know about this stuff. whats the best upgrades i can do for better acceleration and smooth gear change
Install higher numerically gears for better acceleration just like it was said in this video.
Got any tips to enhance my mazda b3000 3.0L V6 I want it to have a little more power and to sound better
Ok
If you have 4 wheel disc brakes its so much safer as disc brakes are less likly to lock up where as the Drums lock up quick "experience" from a car that had 4 wheel drum! but I am wondering about the Pinion line up.... I bought a 8.8 that I am trans planting from a 96 Explorer to a 1967 Plymouth Barracuda ,"I know" dont tell me About putting ford Parts in a Mopar, good Mopar rear axles are extreamly Hard to find and cost an arm a leg and my first born, but is the pinion line from the Transmission to the Axle angled toward the pass side? i would like to know so I am not messing up alignment when installing.
You'd have to search on Mopar forums, Ford Chevy and dodge did it their own way, and unfortunately I never paid attention how dodge did it, so I don't know.
I have a 2010 ford ranger with aluminum 15 in rims that came standard with the truck 4 cyl engine i went to buy identical rims at the wreckers unfornately they were off a older ford ranger i think its 2010 2011 rangers that have the disc brakes on the rear. The older rims although they look identical will not fit on the rear because the roter hits on the inside of the rim they will fit on the front so keep that in mind
10-11 rangers need 15" wheels.
I meant the caliper
I have a 2000 ford ranger 2.5 liter. Do I have to replace the whole rear axle to put in a 8.8 limited slip differential?
It depends on what the truck has now, which was explained in this video.
Great video.
If you change the gear ratio, it will affect the speedometer readings. How do you address that issue?
Changing a gear ratio doesn't affect speedometer on 95-09 rangers, speed sensor reads from the ring gear that's on the rear carrier.
You look at the speedo? Ha ha ha ha ha ha haha ha ha ha ha.
Awesome! Thanks
What mods does the 2.3l duratec respond to best? I want my b2300 to have more low end power.
Dohc 4 cyl engines aren't designed for low end torque.
@@everydayirace So you are saying it's not possible to gain any low end torque? Or to pick up some torque in the lower rpms to have a flat torque line? I'm not trying to turn a 4 cyl. Into a v8. I'm trying to maximize the low end torque so I can tow more and get up hills.
Far as I'm concerned there's nothing better than 4.88 on 35s
thanks great video
You're welcome.
I have a 93 ranger splash with 4.0 5 speed with 8.8 rear 3.08 gear
your work speaks for itself! Awsome stuff!!!
Spiral out @@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@
Thank you.
Hey folk!
Could you help me ?
What differential should a Ford Ranger 97 2.3 have? Please answer.
Most likely a 7.5 inch open diff one wheel peel in either 3 42 or 3.73 ratio. You can check your door like he showed you or you can also check out the tag on your diff cover bolt
I come here look for better feul economy. My truck engine runs at about 3,500 rpm at highway speeds. Is this a normal rpm? I have been trying to find out and not having any success. What speeds and rpm does a regular truck run?
Look up an online engine speed calculator and put all your truck info, such as gear ratio, tire size and transmission gear ratio and you'll have your answer.
I have an 7.5 in rear end open diff. I had all the rear drum brakes replaced, Drums, shoes, hardware and adjusters. MY ebrake is tightened up but my ebrake peddal goes all the way to the floor and barely catches, what could cause that?
broken e-brake cable. I just did this repair. Get under the truck and see if theres a cable there with slack in it. If not it may have broken from behind the pedal. it's not a fun repair, but it's fairly simple. just make sure you watch the part about getting an extra inch by pushing the pedal gearing down when you go to reinstall it or you'll never get the cable to seat in the little pinch nut thing that connects them.
@@jonesey1981 @jonesey1981 the left cable sags now and it didnt prior to having the brakes done. I am wondering if they put the cable back in the drum right. It goes around the little pin inside
You don't need to find an old ranger with a torson diff. EATON makes a torson diff. that will fit the Ranger. I put one in a 2011; so far so good. Under normal circumstances it is like an open diff, then when one wheel rotates too much more than the other it locks up both wheels. Eventually it unlocks. No need to turn it on or off. It just does it automatically. No air, no electricity, no cables.
I wonder what the difference is between the mustang carrier and the ranger.
Ranger carrier has a speedo trigger attached to it compared to 04 and older mustang carriers.
Do you have to change or upgrade drive shaft?
Driveshaft doesn't have to be changed.
Very 👍 good
Hello have questiong to change my 3.73 gear to 4.10 do i just need the Ring and Pinion Or do i need something else . ?
Just need the gears.
@@everydayirace thank you so much
What about speedometer calibration?
@@everydayirace Rotation determines speed. With the bigger ratio you speed will be inaccurate.
Going from a 373 to a 410 will show you going faster than you really are and the opposite is true.
Yes, taller tires can alter your speed a little. Going from 15's (generally stock on those models) to 18's or 20's will have a BIG impact on your speedometer. Especially at highway speeds.
Dealers can recalibrate your speedometer readings if you change tire sizes.
@@everydayirace More teeth the more pulses and vice versa.
Speed sensors read the rotation of the front wheels on a 2wd.
Rear is read off the differential.
I'm lucky my 98 has 3.73 8.8 limited slip from the factory.
My truck used to be unlucky 😁.
@@everydayirace I've been very lucky in general with my truck. I take care of it, grandpa got it for me when I was 14 before he died. It had 150k then. I'm 22 now. Zero common ranger issues in 300k miles. I've had to replace the clutch at 240k miles, crank sensor at 170k, fuel pump at 195k, computer at 230k. Just had the engine rebuilt at 295k only because she was getting a little tired, still had life left though. I'm gonna try to get to 500k. Rear end is getting tired, but I think it will be fine for another 75k. I change the fluid every 30k miles along with the transmission and transfer case fluid. I only use the truck mostly for my vacation trips, taking her on another 3400 mile trip in a week, mostly highway use has probably preserved it.
@@ThatOneVideo1 maintenance is the key, sounds like you were on top of it. Rebuilding rear end is pretty easy, I am sure you can do it. I made a video how to rebuild a trac lok, just haven't had time to upload it.
i dropped in a yukon posi trac unit with a 4.10 ratio in my 7.5 rear end. also swapped the clutch fan for a electric fan. that's about all you can do for power in a 2.3 ranger until you get into a complete rebuild lol
I'll be testing bunch of things on my truck when it cools off for performance and mpg gains. Just waiting on fitting to my fuel cell to show up.
@@everydayirace love to see any and all ranger related videos!
My 7.5 diff is whining slightly. I want to up grade to the 8.8 LS. Open diff sucks cause I live in th mountains of Va. And the damn truck will get stuck in wet grass...lol
Open diff sucks on flat roads as well lol.
Hi, I have a 2010 Ford Ranger that has an axle code 96. Which is an open 8.8 with 3:73 gears.
I placed 32 inch tires on the truck. If I swapped to a 4:10 gear would it help with acceleration? Does it matter that its open and not limited since its a 4x4? Once in 4 wheel drive all tires should actively rotate.
Higher numerical gear ratio helps with acceleration, since it's a 4x4, you have to change gears in front and rear differentials. Limited slip will have better traction than open differential.
@@everydayirace What do you need to change to convert from open differential to limited slip? Thanks
@@robedwards6926 you have to change carrier....... that's the part that ring gear bolts to.
@@everydayirace Thanks, I plugged in my tire size into a gear ratio calculator and it says 3.98 is ideal. So I assume I need to go with 4.10. I'm gonna see what a shop will charge to swap out front and rear gears and convert to a limited slip.
I have a stock 8.8 with 556 gears I don't think I'm going to upgrade it
Need some help i have a 04 4.0 4wd ranger it used to have to 8.8 with 4.10 i believe the last owner swapped it out for a 7.5 with 3.73 can it put 4.10 into my 7.5 rear end and get the same performance as having 4.10 in an 8.8?
4.10 gears work the same regardless what rear end they're in.
*With those bigger mazda wheels and tires I woulda put 4.10s in there while I was at it.*
My 02 with 3.0 and 410 had 17s 275 85 , and 2inch spacers
Just remember if you have 4x4 you have to change the front diff to match the gears in the back or you will definitely have worse problems
Does the 2011 rear axle bolt up to a 1999 Ford ranger I want disc brakes and am not trying to pay 1000 bucks for a conversion kit
It bolts on, but doesn't have a speed sensor on the housing. $1000....what is the kit made off, lumber? 😂
Kinda wish i can lower my rpms on highway on my 3.0 ranger 5 speed at 65mph my rpms sit at 2500 any ideas?
Have you tried watching the video?
Yeah I commented before watching it Lol I got a 86 code
will that work on my 94 also or only95
Yes
What was the purpose of having the 3.73 gears vs the 4.10 gears? Why do they make each?
4:10 is gonna give you more grunt on the bottom end. Better for off roading. 3.73 less torque on the bottom better for free way driving lower rpm's at highway speeds. I have 3.73 and mine is still a pig on gas lol.
4.10s were more for 4wds to match the front diff.
I found a 8.8 with 4:10 gears and disc brakes for 400 bucks,alright deal?
Depends on its condition and what it came from.
If i have 4x4 (1999 xlt 3.0), can I still do this?
Yes, you just have to keep gear ratios the same in the front and rear axle......meaning if you want to change to 4.10 gear ratio in the rear, you'll have to change it to 4.10 in the front axle as well.
Thank you
Good job!!
I've got more videos planned, come and check them out 👍.
What if the door tag is faded out that you can't read it? That's the problem on my Ford Ranger.
Pop the cover, and you'll know what you have.
The metal tag on the differential itself
What was durability and mpg?
Durability applies to if you replace 7.5 rear end with 8.8 rear end, mpg if you install numerically lower gear ratio.
What if your door tag is gone?
You'll have to measure gear ratio by jacking the rear end off the ground and spinning wheels.
My Ranger has 3.55 LSD differential
My Ranger has 2 differentials.
I rebuilt a 3.0 horsepower is such crap I'm glad I have stock 556 gears. Otherwise it wouldn't pull my trailer lol