Nice video. You call it the worst video ever but it was really quite informative. Thank you I just did this job last night on my 95 Legacy L 2.2.. It took me 5 hours by myself and I have never done a timing belt before now. One thing I felt you should have mentioned was the oil pump. The oil pump is only five more bolts and the backing plate screws have a reputation for loosening allowing oil pressure to bleed off. Having the timing belt out is a great opportunity to do that. In any event, this job isn't to terribly hard even for a non-mechanic do-it-yourselfer like me. One thing I would recommend to anybody trying this job though, GET AN IMPACT WRENCH. If you don't have one rent or borrow one it is totally worth it. I screwed around for over an hour trying to get the cam sprocket bolts loose and it is almost impossible w/out an impact wrench. Plus, it just makes everything so much easier. Thanks for the video!
Eric, your channels are my favorite on youtube. Definitely the best car related videos out there. Back when i was going to school you were an inspiration, something of a role model. Now, as a Volvo technician, I find your videos keep me going when I have a rough day. Your shop set up, and business as a whole, are what I've been working towards since I started this career, way back when I applied at a tech school. Keep up the great work, great videos, and great information. I owe a portion of my current success to you. When I finally get my own shop going you will, again, be a part of my success. Just thought I'd throw out some love. You're a hell of a technician!
Great video, Eric (as with any gift- it's the thought that counts) As with electrical spark timing- there is also a "Dwell Angle" with the crankshaft/camshaft relationship- irregardless of hydraulic lifters, solid tappets, followers, VTEC, ECOTEC- or whatever the engineers come up with. Usage of a flourescent crayon and strobe timing light would be an eye-opener, especially if a well-placed recording camera(s) captures the action of belt/cam(s)/crank while driving- to actually observe any lag, hesitation, or over-advancement. Stop action hidef video is awsome to watch, frame by frame tells so much. Peace be with you & your family, Eric!
I'm in the process of buying all the parts to do the timing belt on my Subaru. I've watched a ton a videos, more complete, Subaru specific stuff. But even an incomplete video by Eric has worth. The general timing belt notes you were making were great..especially turning the engine by hand and double checking your marks. Some serious cover your sss stuff there! You calmed my nerves referring to this as easy too. I decided to do it cuz I do somewhat agree. Years later, thank you for actually putting this up, you're obviously not proud of it, but I took a lot from it.
Thanks for the great video, Erik. Just finished this as my first DIY project on my '97 impreza. I wanted to share the one enormous mistake that left me with a non-starting car for 12 hours while I did more research. The timing mark on the crank shaft is NOT the arrow/triangle on the toothed pulley. That would be the piston position indicator. I saw the obvious mark and the actual timing mark may has well been invisible to me. Thankfully the starter motor didn't jack up the valve for me. Got everything sorted and the car is idling better than ever. Now to rebuild that leaky power steering pump.
rust neutralizer in the spray can would help with some of that rust so it stops eating away at the metal. Why not use quick dry RTV to run a new seal and wait until it completely dried so you had a seal close to the original and would seal better? Oh little tip for ya K050345 = 5 ribs 34.5 inches So if the other belt only had 3 ribs it should have been part number K030XXX Length where the X's are decimal carried over once. Duralast belts from autozone are a lot easier to read the part number for the one you can see would have been 345K5 and the other would have been XXXK3 x's are sizes again. And finally the Dayco belts are 5050345. They just use the Gates number but replaces the K with a 5. I work part time as a manager for a parts store and some people think they are gonna show how much more they know than the parts guy and try to laugh at them so they come in and say something like they need a 45 and a half inch belt with 3 ribs and want to watch as the person sweats trying to find out which one they need. I just go on over and grab them a 255K3 and 5030455 and ask them which brand. I've also had people come in and say crap like "lets see how much you know". I usually smile and say "OK lets see". And after they ask me some really stupid question like "whats the displacement of the chevy 350 engine" after I let them know its 5.7L then I tell them they need to answer my question next. And then I ask them the model of their transmission. A lot of those guys just think everyone in a parts store don't know their shit. But I personally work on cars and do so for others and have been told I do fantastic work. I do it as a hobby and refuse to make something I like doing a job so I opt to not be a mechanic. It allows me the luxury of working on cars and continuing to enjoy doing it. Some people out there can be very very annoying so I guess what I am trying to say is....Thank you for not being a condescending asshole mechanic. That is the exact reason why some of the commercial customers who have an attitude like yours gets a decent discount.
Hey Eric, I love the search for a new look as far as the go pro goes, but the other method of filming(even though it was more difficult) gave much more detail and information. I'm not saying ditch the camera, just use it when the situation permits. Love the show!
Enjoyed the video. I had an indentical 99 Subaru Forester and change TB also. I found installation of the TB challenging because the pax side camshaft was on a lobe and easily "jumped" to non-aligned position. Also getting the belt installed was a challenge even w/ tensioner in slack position. One lower idler must be installed after belt is installed over cog idlers. Sorry this part was missed in video. I think GoPro setup is way to record.
I just did a 2000 Tundra belt, it has lines on the belt its self to help you from getting a tooth off. Since I was the second person to do one on this truck,211K, the belt ended up being a tooth off when I got in there. The cam marks lined up but the crank mark was off a tooth. It was one of the more time consuming timing belts that I have done. Sometimes moving the cam gears just enough to keep that slack out of the non tension side is everything.
i have done the dual overhead cam engines.the belts are marked as to where everything should be and with a bit of patience the job isn't as bad as one would think.took three hours after the rad was removed to complete(first time around).burping the cars is more of a pain than i thought it should be.had to heat cycle them all several times. it was a good idea to get the idlers in a kit. i've never seen a set that was reusable....the bearings always seem rough. i am suprised though that the left cam was a tooth off. thats kind of a head scratcher.wonder if cat damage had also occurred? given the time line though we will never know,odds are.
I really enjoyed this video, I think that filming the job and explaining it afterward, gives a more profound meaning to this work plus you are adding so much more information, so definitively It is great.
Eric, Love all your vids. Have to say though that the point of view from the cam mounted on your head leaves a lot to be desired. Many cases where you are installing a pulley or cover and we get a great shot of the top of the alternator or the rest of the top of the engine. Just can't get in there and see what you are doing up close because the cam is 6 inches or so above your eye level. Just my 2 cents. Maybe you can come up with a different mounting position? Dunno. Anyway, Merry Christmas and a most Happy New Year.
HI ERIC, JUST WATCHED YOUR VIDEO THANKS . GETTING READY TO DO THE SAME ON MY SUBARU, HOW MANY MILES DO YOU SUGGEST BEFORE YOU NEED TO DO THIS ? THANKS RON
Good advice regarding turning the crankshaft manually after the belt is installed and tensioned up to verify that the timing marks line up, however you need to turn the crank two turns to get them to line up.
My favorite part was the test drive when Eric expressed a moment of bittersweet satisfaction that he had possibly resolved the longstanding hesitation issue.
thoroughly enjoyed this vid. i would actually say that this vid is a good t/belt vid (well this and the part 1 vid). you covered the most important points. how to vids are not as easy to do as people think, i think you do quite a good job of how to vids. i know myself from making car how to vids that it isn't as easy as it looks. trying to articulate knowledge in the form of a vid is challenging sometimes
If dealing with a saggy timing belt cover seal, one trick is to take a pair of scissors, and snip out half a CM or more to take out the slack. Your belt will be in two or more pieces, but it makes it a lot easier to get back on sometimes.
I believe that the timing belt pulleys and tensioner should always be replaced whenever changing the belt. We saw a couple people who destroyed engines when tensioners or pulleys failed or seized up. They aren't that expensive, especially when compared to the cost of a new engine.
When installing the belt, start with just the upper smooth idler and the tensioner pulley on ONLY. Your belt probably has marks, so line the belt marks with the hash marks on the crank and cams and route it around the water pump. THEN, install the cogged idler and finally the lower smooth idler. This is the easiest way to install the belt without a struggle.
I helped do a cambelt change on an Impreza which was a pig of a job. We only removed the radiator fans which gave us enough room. Like you, we found one of the cams was a tooth out which was one of the reasons it wasn't running right (the car had various problems which were sorted out one by one) so your advice to check the engine timing is definitely spot on. Your advice on rotating the engine a complete revolution to check that the timing marks are still line up is spot on as well. I also had to change the timing belt on my Astra G (the same guy helped me on this job). What we did to undo the crankshaft pulley bolt was to use a breaker bar while one of us put our foot on the brake pedal and it came undone without too much difficulty. It took us several attempts to get the timing marks lined up because the one on the crankshaft was a bit difficult to see so it always pays to check very carefully. With this car I replaced the pulleys and the tensioner at the same time (costing just over $80 for the kit) as the car had done 127,000 miles so it makes sense to replace them at the same time. It was obvious in your footage that they needed replacing.
Another excellent video! I highly recommend you warranty your go pro because if you continue to make videos with it the quality of your videos will quickly go down. Also sometimes another view of the fron of the engine would have been helpful but overall still a great and informative video! Have a great christmas!!
We had a 1986 Subaru RX turbo. Absolutely the worst vehicle I have owned. The engine crapped out and Subaru of North America rebuilt the engine because we purchased the extended warranty. I changed the oil with Castrol GTX 20-50w every 3,000 miles and used genuine Subaru oil filters. We documented each fill up and each oil change in a log book. It required four or five trips to two different dealers and contacting the service manager for the tri-state area to convince Subaru there was a significant problem at 65,000 miles. I spoke with one of the mechanics who worked on it and "unofficially" it had the wrong pistons and con rods installed from the factory. Evidently the turbo required different pistons and con rods. I did not own a shop manual and I don't know if he was correct or blowing smoke. There were three things I really liked about the vehicle. It was on demand 4wd. You simply depressed the clutch and moved the 4wd lever up. It had a "hill holder" clutch. The clutch had a second hydraulic circuit that kept the brakes set after the brake pedal was released.. This was an excellent feature. The oil filter was easy to reach as it was on the right front of the engine. This made oil changes simple. The biggest negative issue was the vehicle was listed by Car and Driver magazine as one of the 10 worst vehicles. I explained the engine had recently been rebuilt and all issues corrected. This did not help and we took a bath on a trade in. This was our first and last Subaru. We moved to Honda Accords. Then we make the mistake of purchasing a 2000 Honda Odyssey Navi. Honda transmissions in the Odysseys do not hold up and Honda will not stand behind their product. This is my last Honda.
Newer Subarus are much improved (from, like, '09 up). I have friends who had earlier models who had several problems. My '10 Forester is over 206,000 miles with NO breakdowns or issues. Have only changed oil and filters and tires and brakes. Very happy with it and about to buy another.
Holy crap, Eric. I started watching your videos when you were brand new to youtube, had around 3,000 subs and a dozen videos. Now you have 10.5X the subs and 19X the videos! Glad you stayed dirty, glad you're doing alright. Happy Holidays, thanks for all those honda tips, YEARS ago! Now that I am more mechanically inclined with cars (been through 3 since I last saw your vids) I'M gonna stay dirty!!!!
23:50 should have used your own advice a while back when looking for the culprit to the hesitation... its funny how we preach but sometimes fail to take our own advice. as the saying goes "do as I say not what I do" thanks for the video! don't be so hard on yourself, it came out pretty good. Merry Christmas & Happy New Year! enjoy your time off.
Great videos, thanks for sharing, best to ya, quick question: You spray a lot of that "brake cleaner" on your jobs, may I ask what solvents are in that stuff, how do you collect the runoff? I do hope that you take care not to inhale too much of it... long may you run!
is that oiless compressor you are using ?and if yes is it sufficient for all impacts and ratchets? good job on the timing belt could you do vid on 03 altima 2.5 timing chain and head replacement ? thanks
Thanks for sharing this video Eric , I just bought a 2012 Legacy with 80,0000 miles on it I think the timing belt will need to be replaced in the future .
did one of those legacy timing belts last year. wasn't too bad until I had to bleed the air from the radiator and engine. it wouldn't bleed the air until the engine was being driven and then the temp would shoot up and when you dropped to idle the temp would go back down. took a good hour to bleed the system
Don't all those parts have specific torque specs? Water pumps especially tend to get over-tightened. Some only need 7 to 8 ft-lbs per bolt. I assume the total torque on the part is the sum of all the bolts' torque.
Which way does the bleeder hole go on the tstat, toward the front of the car or to the rear?? I do know the hole goes at the top of the tstat when it is mounted vertically...nice video..got one to do real soon..
You could probably use the narrower field of view settings on the go-pro for this sort of thing. Wide view captures more and looks cool enough, but sometimes it actually takes away and also seems a little further away than it could.
Nice one thanks Eric. 'Think I've made a mistake though and was wondering... After putting on the belt and pulling the grenade pin and beginning one gentle rotation of the engine by turning the crank with socket and ratchet... I heard a noise that did not sound good so stopped and try to reverse back to TDC but heard the bad noise again. Mines a EJ206 DOHC . What does one do if one messes up? Take off the belt and adjust crank/cams separately?? Pull the heads? Light her up for the insurance money? : (
Next day and I have checked the position of the pulleys and worked out how far I rotated the engine before the bad noise began.... the exhaust cam sprocket on the passenger side had moved when the belt came off. I was lining up the wrong mark and was 90˚ counterclockwise out. When testing I rotated the crank pulley one and a quarter turns which means the intake cam is 220˚ through it's cycle and the exhaust is 310˚, where they should have been the same. I assume this means the intake and exhaust valves are out at the same time. Damage control strategy anyone?
*off note* Hey Eric, since it's close to Christmas, i thought i would say Merry Christmas to you and your family Eric, I hope you and your family have a great day and holiday break and i look forward to more ETCG in 2014!
hey Eric i replaced my first headgasket in a 89 geo prizm with the help from alot of your vids and i cant thank you enough. let me know if you need a camera man thanks stay dirtyyyyyyyyyyyy
There are better cameras than the gopro setup for things like this. I've been recording myself work for a year with great results... only drawback is that the music in the shop gets recorded, which I then have to cover with noise, so that TH-cam doesn't flag the audio.
You have a defective unit of gopro. There are other reports of this type of behaviour and all were defective units Mine never stops, and cutting recording is not normal. Go warranty your gopro.
Good day sir. May I know the brand part number of the timing belt, pulleys and water pump set that you installed? I am planning to do the same job. thanks.
This may be a crazy idea, But here it goes...I have a 2001 Forester with a manual and a SOHC 2.5 with 160K on it. Is it do-able for a backyard mechanic to install a newer (2014) engine and trans into this older car without a bunch of butchery? Thanks Man, LOVE your channel !!
i change one camshaft chain & tensioner on a 99 vw passat 2.8.., 6cylinder, i also change the timing belt., put everything back together & start it., it statrs but wont keep up., it runs for a few minutes then shut off., i change the fuel pump & it still does the same thing.., what do you think is the problem
Nice video, I enjoyed it. I'm still wondering about the size of your shop. It looks a lot bigger than I first thought. Thanks and keep up the good work.
"Nice" video Eric! I have heared that those cams that need hydralic presure behind them to work are tuff to line up if you want to turn them round dry. so you need to work correctly start it up and see again with oilpresure that those marks line up. But i ges as they have lock (when useing correct tools) for cam and crank that they are brithy safe.
hi eric u have many repair video's here on youtube but do you have a video for buying a car? i mean what to do on a test drive and what areas to look at? what to listen for leaks that are expesive to repair and witch you can do at home? sorry for the bad spelling.
Cool video, sorry to hear about your camera cutting out! GoPro likes HIGH BANDWIDTH cards! So find yourself a 16gb Sandisk "extreme pro" I think it's called. It should be a class 10 card and cost around $50. I think that will solve your recording issue. Although it could be your settings, old firmware, or maybe the card needs to be formatted by the camera. you could also try lower resolution and frame rate combination , like 720p @ 30fps
I got a timing belt off by one tooth once and I could instantly tell the difference since it was a car I drove daily. It doesn't look like much but makes a big difference in performance.
So what was the cause of the problem with the GoPro camera? Did you find out why it was cutting out? I find it interesting that it started recording again after it stopped, even without any input from you.
I loved that repair eric, and its nice to know even a skilled man like yourself can still make minor mistakes. Very enjoyable and your narration covered the missing bits spot on :-))
Eric can you explain what you mean by tension side and loose side? Are you saying that anything by the tensioner should be looser than the other side? Why is that?
I had a '97 Legacy 2.5 GT that I bought for $500 because one of the head gaskets had gone. The DOHC engine is a nightmare to get timed because the cams on the driver side will not stay put on their own (Subaru makes a $100 tool to hold them). I think it took four times for me to get the timing right. I also learned that while you can get the heads off with the engine in the car, you cannot get them back on. That said, I would rather pull the engine out of a Subaru than anything else. To bad my ex-wife got that car in the divorce.
if you ever time a 2.2 ecotec engine don't bother turning the engine over to check your timing marks. they only line up every 24 revolutions of the crank. I found this out because one of the other guys in my shop kept trying to time one and the lines never lined back up after turning the engine. hehe
on the removal of the air from the coolant system I tried for over an hour to get the air out it never quit releasing air I figured I'd try a short run down the road and it overheated.I got the car back home and the top hose was very hot and had alot of pressure on it.everything has been changed.and checked.I figured ok..it's a head gasket. so I pulled the plugs out to see if one had been steam cleaned and no sign of an issue. checked compression and was good. checked for a flow issues with the radiator and even swapped out just in case, fans are working. the car runs strong and idles smooth, no missing,no codes,but yet this thing will not quit overheating no matter what I do,there is alot of pressure in the system the cap when barley opened shot up to the 2nd floor like a bullet, as a last resort I took the old thermostat and gutted it to use the outer part and seal so the is no restriction now.still overheating. the system has been flushed.also before I installed the new pump I check the impeller on the pump to make sure everything was good and it seemed to be.I guess what I'm asking is there anything else that I have overlooked. any help would be appreciated. thanks
i have a 94 legacy wagon and the timing belt broke on me at idle. do you think that it wold be safe enough to re-time the engine and put a new belt on or do you think that there my possibly be some damage done the internals.
WARNING: The Haynes manual for the Subaru 2.2 engine states that the torque ft lbs for the harmonic balancer is 80. WRONG! It's 130. It's a misprint - and one that cost me hundreds and hundreds of dollars. Torqued to 80 ft/lbs my harmonic balancer lasted less than a month before it's noisy wobble alerted me that all was not right. The woodruff key had sheared off and the fix was over my head. Took it to my local pricey mechanic and threw $$$ at them. I'm lucky it didn't trash the end of my crank - that would mean new crank / engine rebuild time. Haynes cannot be implicitly trusted for torque settings. I recommend that if you're following their procedures that you check elsewhere for critical measurement.
Those small rubber seals around the timing cover are only about 5-10 bucks to replace, and when I worked at the suby dealer it was published in a tsb to replace those when doing a timing belt or whenever it was necessary to remove the timing cover. those rubber seals aren't extra parts, keeps out a lot of dirt/debris. btw, not sure why you removed the radiator... maybe so people can see what you're doing? subaru did an excellent job designing the ej22e engine thats in that car, also why they used it in the legacy from 89-98 without any major design changes(and infact still use the same block to this day for the 2.5l), with the exception of adding sensors and trimming emmissions for obdII.
the oil leaks are coming from the seals behind the crank shafts on the timing belt. be prepared to address those at some point in the future should you get another opportunity to work on this Subaru. Those seals do often dry out and leak overtime. sometimes pretty severely. same thing with the power steering leak, that's another common item to leak.
can you possibly diagnos a problem im having with my car, it's making a knock noise in the front of the engine.i got the video uploaded to my account. Any help is appreciated, thanks.
I paid $1,000 for Pep Boys to replace the timing belt in my Forester in the middle of the Arizona summer. Then I realized that my head gasket was bad and removing and reinstalling the timing belt is part of replacing the head gasket. I always recommend that Subaru owners replace their head gaskets when the timing belt is due.
Eric, just say No to the Go. They are good for skateboarders and wake boarders but your normal version of recoding is excellent!!! I just got motion sickness...
Think that go-pro made things much nicer for viewing. You can really see what your working on and where things are located. Just need to find a way to fit a good mic in there so you don't have to do a voice over :p But the voice over was still nice, better explaining of everything.
Check your GoPro settings to make sure you don't have it set for a determined amount of time for your videos. This would explain why it was cutting off on you. Nothing wrong with the camera, you may have it set for 5 or 10 minutes per video.
I replaced the timing belt on a chevet and when I tried to start it wouldn't run re timed it many times come to find out the previous owner put the plug wires ad vanced to the next terminal on the distibuter
I allways install full timeing belt kits with pullys and all so waterpump when ever WP is behind timeing belt or driven by it. That way customer cnow its car have full warenty. So when you ask price of change timeing belt, allso ask what you get with it!
I just did this job on my Subaru 2001 Forester S. Engine is an EJ25. Essentially the same exact engine/job as this vid. GREAT new discovery I found is "rockauto.com". Got a complete Gates kit with a timing belt, all new idlers, new tensioner, AND water pump with WP gasket and thermostat gasket for $164 plus shipping (which is very reasonable). I don't know if Eric mentions where he bought his kit or how much it was, but I HIGHLY recommend Rock auto if anyone watching this is embarking on the same job. They also have SEVERAL kits to choose from (different brands and different qualities) if you want to spend a little more.
Why would you ever replace a timing belt without replacing all the idlers and tensioners too? It's much cheaper than fixing bent valves if/when the old parts fail.
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its 2023 and this is still the best video to work on my 98 subaru forester!! thank you Erick The Car guy.
Nice video. You call it the worst video ever but it was really quite informative. Thank you
I just did this job last night on my 95 Legacy L 2.2.. It took me 5 hours by myself and I have never done a timing belt before now. One thing I felt you should have mentioned was the oil pump. The oil pump is only five more bolts and the backing plate screws have a reputation for loosening allowing oil pressure to bleed off. Having the timing belt out is a great opportunity to do that. In any event, this job isn't to terribly hard even for a non-mechanic do-it-yourselfer like me. One thing I would recommend to anybody trying this job though, GET AN IMPACT WRENCH. If you don't have one rent or borrow one it is totally worth it. I screwed around for over an hour trying to get the cam sprocket bolts loose and it is almost impossible w/out an impact wrench. Plus, it just makes everything so much easier.
Thanks for the video!
Eric, your channels are my favorite on youtube. Definitely the best car related videos out there. Back when i was going to school you were an inspiration, something of a role model. Now, as a Volvo technician, I find your videos keep me going when I have a rough day. Your shop set up, and business as a whole, are what I've been working towards since I started this career, way back when I applied at a tech school. Keep up the great work, great videos, and great information. I owe a portion of my current success to you. When I finally get my own shop going you will, again, be a part of my success. Just thought I'd throw out some love. You're a hell of a technician!
Great video, Eric (as with any gift- it's the thought that counts) As with electrical spark timing- there is also a "Dwell Angle" with the crankshaft/camshaft relationship- irregardless of hydraulic lifters, solid tappets, followers, VTEC, ECOTEC- or whatever the engineers come up with. Usage of a flourescent crayon and strobe timing light would be an eye-opener, especially if a well-placed recording camera(s) captures the action of belt/cam(s)/crank while driving- to actually observe any lag, hesitation, or over-advancement. Stop action hidef video is awsome to watch, frame by frame tells so much. Peace be with you & your family, Eric!
I'm in the process of buying all the parts to do the timing belt on my Subaru. I've watched a ton a videos, more complete, Subaru specific stuff. But even an incomplete video by Eric has worth. The general timing belt notes you were making were great..especially turning the engine by hand and double checking your marks. Some serious cover your sss stuff there! You calmed my nerves referring to this as easy too. I decided to do it cuz I do somewhat agree. Years later, thank you for actually putting this up, you're obviously not proud of it, but I took a lot from it.
Thanks for the great video, Erik. Just finished this as my first DIY project on my '97 impreza. I wanted to share the one enormous mistake that left me with a non-starting car for 12 hours while I did more research. The timing mark on the crank shaft is NOT the arrow/triangle on the toothed pulley. That would be the piston position indicator. I saw the obvious mark and the actual timing mark may has well been invisible to me.
Thankfully the starter motor didn't jack up the valve for me. Got everything sorted and the car is idling better than ever. Now to rebuild that leaky power steering pump.
rust neutralizer in the spray can would help with some of that rust so it stops eating away at the metal. Why not use quick dry RTV to run a new seal and wait until it completely dried so you had a seal close to the original and would seal better?
Oh little tip for ya K050345 = 5 ribs 34.5 inches So if the other belt only had 3 ribs it should have been part number K030XXX Length where the X's are decimal carried over once. Duralast belts from autozone are a lot easier to read the part number for the one you can see would have been 345K5 and the other would have been XXXK3 x's are sizes again. And finally the Dayco belts are 5050345. They just use the Gates number but replaces the K with a 5.
I work part time as a manager for a parts store and some people think they are gonna show how much more they know than the parts guy and try to laugh at them so they come in and say something like they need a 45 and a half inch belt with 3 ribs and want to watch as the person sweats trying to find out which one they need. I just go on over and grab them a 255K3 and 5030455 and ask them which brand.
I've also had people come in and say crap like "lets see how much you know". I usually smile and say "OK lets see". And after they ask me some really stupid question like "whats the displacement of the chevy 350 engine" after I let them know its 5.7L then I tell them they need to answer my question next. And then I ask them the model of their transmission. A lot of those guys just think everyone in a parts store don't know their shit. But I personally work on cars and do so for others and have been told I do fantastic work. I do it as a hobby and refuse to make something I like doing a job so I opt to not be a mechanic. It allows me the luxury of working on cars and continuing to enjoy doing it. Some people out there can be very very annoying so I guess what I am trying to say is....Thank you for not being a condescending asshole mechanic. That is the exact reason why some of the commercial customers who have an attitude like yours gets a decent discount.
@Hagbard Celine eh...the ending needs a little work.
Hey Eric, I love the search for a new look as far as the go pro goes, but the other method of filming(even though it was more difficult) gave much more detail and information. I'm not saying ditch the camera, just use it when the situation permits.
Love the show!
Enjoyed the video. I had an indentical 99 Subaru Forester and change TB also. I found installation of the TB challenging because the pax side camshaft was on a lobe and easily "jumped" to non-aligned position. Also getting the belt installed was a challenge even w/ tensioner in slack position. One lower idler must be installed after belt is installed over cog idlers. Sorry this part was missed in video. I think GoPro setup is way to record.
I just did a 2000 Tundra belt, it has lines on the belt its self to help you from getting a tooth off. Since I was the second person to do one on this truck,211K, the belt ended up being a tooth off when I got in there. The cam marks lined up but the crank mark was off a tooth. It was one of the more time consuming timing belts that I have done. Sometimes moving the cam gears just enough to keep that slack out of the non tension side is everything.
the hands-free videos are great! must be soooo much easier working with 2 hands lol
i have done the dual overhead cam engines.the belts are marked as to where everything should be and with a bit of patience the job isn't as bad as one would think.took three hours after the rad was removed to complete(first time around).burping the cars is more of a pain than i thought it should be.had to heat cycle them all several times. it was a good idea to get the idlers in a kit.
i've never seen a set that was reusable....the bearings always seem rough. i am suprised though that the left cam was a tooth off.
thats kind of a head scratcher.wonder if cat damage had also occurred?
given the time line though we will never know,odds are.
I really enjoyed this video, I think that filming the job and explaining it afterward, gives a more profound meaning to this work plus you are adding so much more information, so definitively It is great.
Eric,
Love all your vids. Have to say though that the point of view from the cam mounted on your head leaves a lot to be desired. Many cases where you are installing a pulley or cover and we get a great shot of the top of the alternator or the rest of the top of the engine. Just can't get in there and see what you are doing up close because the cam is 6 inches or so above your eye level. Just my 2 cents. Maybe you can come up with a different mounting position? Dunno. Anyway, Merry Christmas and a most Happy New Year.
HI ERIC, JUST WATCHED YOUR VIDEO THANKS . GETTING READY TO DO THE SAME ON MY SUBARU, HOW MANY MILES DO YOU SUGGEST BEFORE YOU NEED TO DO THIS ? THANKS RON
Good advice regarding turning the crankshaft manually after the belt is installed and tensioned up to verify that the timing marks line up, however you need to turn the crank two turns to get them to line up.
My favorite part was the test drive when Eric expressed a moment of bittersweet satisfaction that he had possibly resolved the longstanding hesitation issue.
thoroughly enjoyed this vid. i would actually say that this vid is a good t/belt vid (well this and the part 1 vid). you covered the most important points. how to vids are not as easy to do as people think, i think you do quite a good job of how to vids. i know myself from making car how to vids that it isn't as easy as it looks. trying to articulate knowledge in the form of a vid is challenging sometimes
you just gotta love that that spill free /bleeding funnel !!!!!!
If dealing with a saggy timing belt cover seal, one trick is to take a pair of scissors, and snip out half a CM or more to take out the slack. Your belt will be in two or more pieces, but it makes it a lot easier to get back on sometimes.
I believe that the timing belt pulleys and tensioner should always be replaced whenever changing the belt. We saw a couple people who destroyed engines when tensioners or pulleys failed or seized up. They aren't that expensive, especially when compared to the cost of a new engine.
When installing the belt, start with just the upper smooth idler and the tensioner pulley on ONLY. Your belt probably has marks, so line the belt marks with the hash marks on the crank and cams and route it around the water pump. THEN, install the cogged idler and finally the lower smooth idler. This is the easiest way to install the belt without a struggle.
I helped do a cambelt change on an Impreza which was a pig of a job. We only removed the radiator fans which gave us enough room. Like you, we found one of the cams was a tooth out which was one of the reasons it wasn't running right (the car had various problems which were sorted out one by one) so your advice to check the engine timing is definitely spot on. Your advice on rotating the engine a complete revolution to check that the timing marks are still line up is spot on as well. I also had to change the timing belt on my Astra G (the same guy helped me on this job). What we did to undo the crankshaft pulley bolt was to use a breaker bar while one of us put our foot on the brake pedal and it came undone without too much difficulty. It took us several attempts to get the timing marks lined up because the one on the crankshaft was a bit difficult to see so it always pays to check very carefully. With this car I replaced the pulleys and the tensioner at the same time (costing just over $80 for the kit) as the car had done 127,000 miles so it makes sense to replace them at the same time. It was obvious in your footage that they needed replacing.
Another excellent video! I highly recommend you warranty your go pro because if you continue to make videos with it the quality of your videos will quickly go down. Also sometimes another view of the fron of the engine would have been helpful but overall still a great and informative video! Have a great christmas!!
We had a 1986 Subaru RX turbo. Absolutely the worst vehicle I have owned. The engine crapped out and Subaru of North America rebuilt the engine because we purchased the extended warranty. I changed the oil with Castrol GTX 20-50w every 3,000 miles and used genuine Subaru oil filters. We documented each fill up and each oil change in a log book. It required four or five trips to two different dealers and contacting the service manager for the tri-state area to convince Subaru there was a significant problem at 65,000 miles. I spoke with one of the mechanics who worked on it and "unofficially" it had the wrong pistons and con rods installed from the factory. Evidently the turbo required different pistons and con rods. I did not own a shop manual and I don't know if he was correct or blowing smoke. There were three things I really liked about the vehicle. It was on demand 4wd. You simply depressed the clutch and moved the 4wd lever up. It had a "hill holder" clutch. The clutch had a second hydraulic circuit that kept the brakes set after the brake pedal was released.. This was an excellent feature. The oil filter was easy to reach as it was on the right front of the engine. This made oil changes simple. The biggest negative issue was the vehicle was listed by Car and Driver magazine as one of the 10 worst vehicles. I explained the engine had recently been rebuilt and all issues corrected. This did not help and we took a bath on a trade in. This was our first and last Subaru. We moved to Honda Accords. Then we make the mistake of purchasing a 2000 Honda Odyssey Navi. Honda transmissions in the Odysseys do not hold up and Honda will not stand behind their product. This is my last Honda.
Newer Subarus are much improved (from, like, '09 up). I have friends who had earlier models who had several problems. My '10 Forester is over 206,000 miles with NO breakdowns or issues. Have only changed oil and filters and tires and brakes. Very happy with it and about to buy another.
Holy crap, Eric. I started watching your videos when you were brand new to youtube, had around 3,000 subs and a dozen videos. Now you have 10.5X the subs and 19X the videos! Glad you stayed dirty, glad you're doing alright. Happy Holidays, thanks for all those honda tips, YEARS ago! Now that I am more mechanically inclined with cars (been through 3 since I last saw your vids) I'M gonna stay dirty!!!!
23:50 should have used your own advice a while back when looking for the culprit to the hesitation...
its funny how we preach but sometimes fail to take our own advice.
as the saying goes "do as I say not what I do"
thanks for the video! don't be so hard on yourself, it came out pretty good.
Merry Christmas & Happy New Year! enjoy your time off.
Great videos, thanks for sharing, best to ya, quick question:
You spray a lot of that "brake cleaner" on your jobs, may I ask what solvents are in that stuff, how do you collect the runoff? I do hope that you take care not to inhale too much of it... long may you run!
is that oiless compressor you are using ?and if yes is it sufficient for all impacts and ratchets? good job on the timing belt could you do vid on 03 altima 2.5 timing chain and head replacement ? thanks
Thanks for sharing this video Eric , I just bought a 2012 Legacy with 80,0000 miles on it I think the timing belt will need to be replaced in the future .
did one of those legacy timing belts last year. wasn't too bad until I had to bleed the air from the radiator and engine. it wouldn't bleed the air until the engine was being driven and then the temp would shoot up and when you dropped to idle the temp would go back down. took a good hour to bleed the system
Don't all those parts have specific torque specs? Water pumps especially tend to get over-tightened. Some only need 7 to 8 ft-lbs per bolt. I assume the total torque on the part is the sum of all the bolts' torque.
Which way does the bleeder hole go on the tstat, toward the front of the car or to the rear?? I do know the hole goes at the top of the tstat when it is mounted vertically...nice video..got one to do real soon..
You could probably use the narrower field of view settings on the go-pro for this sort of thing.
Wide view captures more and looks cool enough, but sometimes it actually takes away and also seems a little further away than it could.
Nice one thanks Eric. 'Think I've made a mistake though and was wondering... After putting on the belt and pulling the grenade pin and beginning one gentle rotation of the engine by turning the crank with socket and ratchet... I heard a noise that did not sound good so stopped and try to reverse back to TDC but heard the bad noise again. Mines a EJ206 DOHC . What does one do if one messes up? Take off the belt and adjust crank/cams separately?? Pull the heads? Light her up for the insurance money? : (
Next day and I have checked the position of the pulleys and worked out how far I rotated the engine before the bad noise began.... the exhaust cam sprocket on the passenger side had moved when the belt came off. I was lining up the wrong mark and was 90˚ counterclockwise out. When testing I rotated the crank pulley one and a quarter turns which means the intake cam is 220˚ through it's cycle and the exhaust is 310˚, where they should have been the same. I assume this means the intake and exhaust valves are out at the same time. Damage control strategy anyone?
*off note* Hey Eric, since it's close to Christmas, i thought i would say Merry Christmas to you and your family Eric, I hope you and your family have a great day and holiday break and i look forward to more ETCG in 2014!
Merry Christmas to you and yours too!
hey Eric i replaced my first headgasket in a 89 geo prizm with the help from alot of your vids and i cant thank you enough. let me know if you need a camera man thanks stay dirtyyyyyyyyyyyy
There are better cameras than the gopro setup for things like this. I've been recording myself work for a year with great results... only drawback is that the music in the shop gets recorded, which I then have to cover with noise, so that TH-cam doesn't flag the audio.
You have a defective unit of gopro. There are other reports of this type of behaviour and all were defective units Mine never stops, and cutting recording is not normal. Go warranty your gopro.
Good day sir. May I know the brand part number of the timing belt, pulleys and water pump set that you installed? I am planning to do the same job. thanks.
This may be a crazy idea, But here it goes...I have a 2001 Forester with a manual and a SOHC 2.5 with 160K on it. Is it do-able for a backyard mechanic to install a newer (2014) engine and trans into this older car without a bunch of butchery?
Thanks Man, LOVE your channel !!
i change one camshaft chain & tensioner on a 99 vw passat 2.8.., 6cylinder, i also change the timing belt., put everything back together & start it., it statrs but wont keep up., it runs for a few minutes then shut off., i change the fuel pump & it still does the same thing.., what do you think is the problem
This was a very good video and i was nice time with this.
Don't think about it badly. Great job Eric. thank you.
Cutouts or not, it's still pretty cool to absorb info from this.
You da man! Wish you were here in Matthews, NC! Thanks for all your videos. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!
Go pro was a great point of view gotta do this job soon do you happen to have links to where you got your timing and idler kit?
Nice video, I enjoyed it. I'm still wondering about the size of your shop. It looks a lot bigger than I first thought. Thanks and keep up the good work.
"Nice" video Eric! I have heared that those cams that need hydralic presure behind them to work are tuff to line up if you want to turn them round dry. so you need to work correctly start it up and see again with oilpresure that those marks line up. But i ges as they have lock (when useing correct tools) for cam and crank that they are brithy safe.
hi eric u have many repair video's here on youtube but do you have a video for buying a car?
i mean what to do on a test drive and what areas to look at? what to listen for leaks that are expesive to repair and witch you can do at home? sorry for the bad spelling.
"I'm gonna see if this hesitation went away." Perfect excuse to go wide open throttle lol
Cool video, sorry to hear about your camera cutting out! GoPro likes HIGH BANDWIDTH cards! So find yourself a 16gb Sandisk "extreme pro" I think it's called. It should be a class 10 card and cost around $50. I think that will solve your recording issue. Although it could be your settings, old firmware, or maybe the card needs to be formatted by the camera. you could also try lower resolution and frame rate combination , like 720p @ 30fps
I got a timing belt off by one tooth once and I could instantly tell the difference since it was a car I drove daily. It doesn't look like much but makes a big difference in performance.
So what was the cause of the problem with the GoPro camera? Did you find out why it was cutting out? I find it interesting that it started recording again after it stopped, even without any input from you.
That was pretty kool Eric do more vids like this. Merry Christmas and happy new year
Keep up the good work Eric! Love your videos, took me from knowing nothing about cars 3 years ago, and now I can do engine swaps! :D
I loved that repair eric, and its nice to know even a skilled man like yourself can still make minor mistakes.
Very enjoyable and your narration covered the missing bits spot on :-))
Eric can you explain what you mean by tension side and loose side? Are you saying that anything by the tensioner should be looser than the other side? Why is that?
Hi Eric do you know where I can get a replacement bolt for my harmonic balancer on a 1992 honda accord?
I had a '97 Legacy 2.5 GT that I bought for $500 because one of the head gaskets had gone. The DOHC engine is a nightmare to get timed because the cams on the driver side will not stay put on their own (Subaru makes a $100 tool to hold them). I think it took four times for me to get the timing right. I also learned that while you can get the heads off with the engine in the car, you cannot get them back on. That said, I would rather pull the engine out of a Subaru than anything else. To bad my ex-wife got that car in the divorce.
Is it hard to fix . Ok i have a 2001 4x4 chev. The window wont roll up but goes down. What should I do?
if you ever time a 2.2 ecotec engine don't bother turning the engine over to check your timing marks. they only line up every 24 revolutions of the crank. I found this out because one of the other guys in my shop kept trying to time one and the lines never lined back up after turning the engine. hehe
on the removal of the air from the coolant system I tried for over an hour to get the air out it never quit releasing air I figured I'd try a short run down the road and it overheated.I got the car back home and the top hose was very hot and had alot of pressure on it.everything has been changed.and checked.I figured ok..it's a head gasket. so I pulled the plugs out to see if one had been steam cleaned and no sign of an issue. checked compression and was good. checked for a flow issues with the radiator and even swapped out just in case, fans are working. the car runs strong and idles smooth, no missing,no codes,but yet this thing will not quit overheating no matter what I do,there is alot of pressure in the system the cap when barley opened shot up to the 2nd floor like a bullet, as a last resort I took the old thermostat and gutted it to use the outer part and seal so the is no restriction now.still overheating. the system has been flushed.also before I installed the new pump I check the impeller on the pump to make sure everything was good and it seemed to be.I guess what I'm asking is there anything else that I have overlooked. any help would be appreciated. thanks
Love these videos! Get a camera that doesnt stop up and continue making them. I learned a lot! Thanks!
Hey Eric, you should do a video on and about ECU's and what you can do with them.
i have a 94 legacy wagon and the timing belt broke on me at idle. do you think that it wold be safe enough to re-time the engine and put a new belt on or do you think that there my possibly be some damage done the internals.
Chaos OwnsU so... maybe alittle late but since I believe it's the 2.2 it should should be fine non interference engine
WARNING: The Haynes manual for the Subaru 2.2 engine states that the torque ft lbs for the harmonic balancer is 80. WRONG! It's 130. It's a misprint - and one that cost me hundreds and hundreds of dollars. Torqued to 80 ft/lbs my harmonic balancer lasted less than a month before it's noisy wobble alerted me that all was not right. The woodruff key had sheared off and the fix was over my head. Took it to my local pricey mechanic and threw $$$ at them. I'm lucky it didn't trash the end of my crank - that would mean new crank / engine rebuild time.
Haynes cannot be implicitly trusted for torque settings. I recommend that if you're following their procedures that you check elsewhere for critical measurement.
David Sanborn I'm going to check mine and correct it in the morning
Shame that the footage of the timing belt was lost , that would have been good to see .
I like the heavy breathing that comes through you narration haha
Bye Scooby, you will be missed. Also Bye Eric for 2013. Look forward to your 2014 videos!
Those small rubber seals around the timing cover are only about 5-10 bucks to replace, and when I worked at the suby dealer it was published in a tsb to replace those when doing a timing belt or whenever it was necessary to remove the timing cover. those rubber seals aren't extra parts, keeps out a lot of dirt/debris. btw, not sure why you removed the radiator... maybe so people can see what you're doing? subaru did an excellent job designing the ej22e engine thats in that car, also why they used it in the legacy from 89-98 without any major design changes(and infact still use the same block to this day for the 2.5l), with the exception of adding sensors and trimming emmissions for obdII.
the oil leaks are coming from the seals behind the crank shafts on the timing belt. be prepared to address those at some point in the future should you get another opportunity to work on this Subaru. Those seals do often dry out and leak overtime. sometimes pretty severely. same thing with the power steering leak, that's another common item to leak.
I did read the Go Pro was having problems when using the large memory cards..Most people changed to smaller cards and it fixed the problem...
can you possibly diagnos a problem im having with my car, it's making a knock noise in the front of the engine.i got the video uploaded to my account. Any help is appreciated, thanks.
Thanks Eric!! parts 1 & 2 were what i needed to get er don!
You mentioned that you didn't fix the cause of the oil leaks. Maybe I didn't hear what you said about that, are you planning on going at that later?
The car was sold almost 2 months ago now so probably not.
EricTheCarGuy Good new ! Now you are so busy to make video, you take 2 month for the post production instead of 1 month previously 1 years ago.
That camera might make me barf lol. Otherwise great video series as always, despite the missing footage.
What a legend! this video saved me $1000
I paid $1,000 for Pep Boys to replace the timing belt in my Forester in the middle of the Arizona summer.
Then I realized that my head gasket was bad and removing and reinstalling the timing belt is part of replacing the head gasket. I always recommend that Subaru owners replace their head gaskets when the timing belt is due.
How about a link to purchase the timing belt kit you mentioned?
If the factory paint Mark's are not on the notches on the cam pulley what do I use?
I hope you got the chance to make a video about, how to replace timing chain. :)
// Big ETCG fan :D
Eric, just say No to the Go. They are good for skateboarders and wake boarders but your normal version of recoding is excellent!!! I just got motion sickness...
i have the same car and my timing belt looks really bad if it breaks will that damage my engine?
Eric, please in the future, set up a secondary camera to ensure there is no loss of footage! Great video other than that!
Have a nice Christmas
How did you get the crank shaft pulley back on
Think that go-pro made things much nicer for viewing. You can really see what your working on and where things are located. Just need to find a way to fit a good mic in there so you don't have to do a voice over :p But the voice over was still nice, better explaining of everything.
I know this video is old but I love your work good video
Check your GoPro settings to make sure you don't have it set for a determined amount of time for your videos. This would explain why it was cutting off on you. Nothing wrong with the camera, you may have it set for 5 or 10 minutes per video.
I replaced the timing belt on a chevet and when I tried to start it wouldn't run re timed it many times come to find out the previous owner put the plug wires ad vanced to the next terminal on the distibuter
I allways install full timeing belt kits with pullys and all so waterpump when ever WP is behind timeing belt or driven by it. That way customer cnow its car have full warenty. So when you ask price of change timeing belt, allso ask what you get with it!
BTW ur thermostat o ring might be swollen, be sure to replace this o ring and possibly the thermostate just to be safe.
this reminds me so much of working on alfa romeo´s , great cars and pretty fuel efficient, and has the best roadgrip of eny car ive tryed.
skipped the part where you tight the cranck pulley bolt!!
how to do you tight it? breaker bar and hammer??
great vid and just enough humor...liked and subbed
I just did this job on my Subaru 2001 Forester S. Engine is an EJ25. Essentially the same exact engine/job as this vid. GREAT new discovery I found is "rockauto.com". Got a complete Gates kit with a timing belt, all new idlers, new tensioner, AND water pump with WP gasket and thermostat gasket for $164 plus shipping (which is very reasonable). I don't know if Eric mentions where he bought his kit or how much it was, but I HIGHLY recommend Rock auto if anyone watching this is embarking on the same job. They also have SEVERAL kits to choose from (different brands and different qualities) if you want to spend a little more.
Great video eric best of holiday wishes.
Why would you ever replace a timing belt without replacing all the idlers and tensioners too? It's much cheaper than fixing bent valves if/when the old parts fail.
Just to let ya know there are timing marks on the new belts that line up wit the cams timing and crank timing
what did eric the car guy end up getting after selling the Soob?
Can someone tell me what can followers are and what they do? Symptoms of wear would also be great