As an experienced general engineer I wasn't expecting to learn anything new but I came across you Eric just whilst browsing You Tube so watched out of interest (as you do and after all we all learn off of each other don't we?) I posted a comment to say that your no nonsense style of presentation is one of the best on You Tube. No bells, no whistles, just damned good clear advice. Please keep 'em coming, I have subscribed. Thank you!
I've watched several of your videos. Your efforts to help others is greatly appreciated. I've been able to successfully perform many automotive repairs (for myself and family members) due to your videos and tips. Thank you and I hope to see more of your videos (hopefully for fun only) in the future.
Thanks for the basics video I'm turning 14 and my dad won't get me a car unless I know to fix it I have 2 years to go but I know almost nothing about cars
One note, you should go over the testing of the Rad cap, I find many bad caps are the cause of overheats, as they either do not seal or no longer hold the rated PSI
Michael Berg No I did not have adapters to check those caps. The only adapter I have is for the 'old school' large caps that you hardly see anymore. I agree that is something that would be nice to cover in the future. Thanks for the suggestion.
EricTheCarGuy I have a problem that I can't solve, it's on a 2002 Cadillac Escalade, it has the expansion tank type cooling system there are no leaks but it won't bleed and stay bleeded so the heater is not working right and now it's causing a lot of problems like the transmission not working right, this is my friends SUV and all I did was changed the spark plugs and thermostat and now he thinks I caused the problem, before I started it ran ok but the heater in the dash was not working right but the rear heater was so he wanted me to change the thermostat and when I did it came out in pieces, this is the type of thermostat built into the water neck so I put the old water neck back in so I can flush the system a couple of times with water then put some blue devil flush in and ran the engine to get all the gunk out and a lot came out then I flush with water 3 more times then put in antifreeze but I had a very hard time getting the air out what do you think
I'm planning to do this test soon, but I'm wondering if I can find a way if I can include the actual radiator cap in the test? I mean it was supposed to open up at a certain PSI right? maybe I can fabricate an adaptor to inject pressure to the top radiator hose? Will that do?
I'm loving the "Basic Series" of videos. Is like watching ETCG 3 years ago. A new video on the use of the mechanic stethoscope would be so awesome! Thanks for your time and effort Eric!
Eric my system (G35) wouldn't pressurize until I pinched the tube going to the overflow bottle, It would just keep blowing air, once pinched it held 15psi for minute with no leaks. any suggestion
That's why for myself I'll continue to feed air in the overflow 1/2 inch hose to 15 lbs. [that's safe and enough] with the cap on, its a two way valve in itself. if it holds before and after I remove the feed hose all is almost good. Almost in a way a lightly cracked head at times may only leak when at full hot, This way you would not have missed that cap bleeding down.
hey man I may have said this on other videos of yours but I really appreciate you taking the time to explain diagnostics. It's really helpful to learn the methods to diagnose your own problems or at least problem areas so you don't go throwing parts at something that's not the problem.
Seems like an indispensable tool. I haven't needed on yet, but you have me convinced that having one might be a good idea as our family's cars get older. Thanks for the great video as always.
8 years ago on this video. I just picked one of these up. If I ran a vacuum on 15 psi and it took 30 mins to leak to 11 psi. Is there a leak or just it's losing vacuum itself
On some vehicles you have to clamp down one or two bypass hoses in order to built adequate pressure! This is as specially true on some GM Vans and others with a plastic reservoir. Also like to mention that you can change the seals on the pressure adapters and most kits come with extras, but sometimes you have to make your own to compensate for bad sealing on the adapter itself!
Hi eric. I have a slight coolant leak somewhere (I top up about 50ml coolant a week) , my rad hoses are rock hard top and bottom (and both really warm), the coolant is trying to escape via my header tank (almost busting out at times), my heater matrix has sprung a leak so it's now disconnected, my fans come on as they should. I also have a misfire on low revs....but..i have NO overheating issues, the car idles great, runs OK when cold on start up, but it almost failed emissions test with high Co2, boosts well when it gets through that initial low rev misfire.... I've been told it's a head gasket but it's NOT overheating at all?? What do u think eric? Oh, I drive a Subaru Impreza WRX 2.0 TURBO, grey import. Cheers 🥂
When either my son or I have a problem with our cars I always tell him to check Eric The Car Guy. I tell him that this site is a good educational tool for the armature or novice mechanic. Keep up the good work.
I bought that leak tester but it’s leaking from beneath the cap 🤣🤣🤣 and I bought it long time about 6 months so no return or complain omg 😱 waste of money I’ll try to see if there is a way to do something or just take the nozzle and drill on old cap then weld it 😅 I think that’s what I’ll do damn this
2002 Camry here. If my car was in a collision prior to my purchase in 2011 could the block have been damaged but not show this till 2024? I drive the car from Ventura to wash state 2011. 5/24 the gage that was always 2 digits from cold suddenly went to H. Theory is: wash/oregon has much colder temps than California ; we’ve had many freezes and temps over 100, combined with a damaged block, perhaps the crack has been compressing expanding? Car works fine just idling but the moment it’s driven it goes bezerk. Car overheats due to Coolant is rapidly dumped. Every mechanic had a diff. Opinion after pressure test. Replaced everything but the head gasket, block, Heater core. Car started with low mileage, has 168k now however I know lots with Toyotas high mileage never experienced overheating or coolant loss so mileage is not a factor. Maybe the accident before I bought it had damaged block that simply worsened with freeze then extreme hot weather ? Is there a block test? A recent shop say the leak in behind the intake manifold gasket. They can’t conclude what? A 6/28 3 hours head gasket test, thereafter mechanic say the 3 cylinder was observed as abnormal but no proof yet it’s head gasket. Believed is possibly the very start of one. I’ve had none of the serious symptoms most gets bec. Shops says the leak is external . the severest issue is rapid dumping of coolant
Hey I know you, watched your videos, here's one for scotty, How about take a pressure gauge,connect a shutoff and 2 small hoses and pump from your air source entering through the overflow hose connector. that's good for all ,screw the rad cap. and all that pumper contraption and various fittings. Yeah baby!
The main problem I have with my pressure testing kit is that the adapters don't fit all vehicles. It's more complicated than you might first think, because the seal for the pressure testing needs to be deep to the overflow passage, so that air doesn't reflux back to atmosphere. So, it's the deeper seal, not the one at the outer lip of the radiator. The other issue with just hooking up to shop air is that you are looking for a fall of pressure when you stop pumping the pressure up. I guess you could turn off the shop air or turn the valve off, but at some point the effort to make your own is not worth it. Remember not to overdo the pressure beyond about 15psi, you could cause more problems with too much pressure. Some auto parts stores will loan equipment like this, too, so you aren't saving a lot of dough.
Many parts stores "loan" tools these days. What they usually do is sell you the tool, then when you return it the return the money as long as you didn't damage the tool. BUT check it over in the store before you leave. In this case the tester may come with say 5 adapters. You don't check and one is missing. When you bring it back they can charge you for the missing part.
@West Park yes your right unfortunately when your on a budget and only have money for parts where the hell am i gonna get the rest of the money for the parts yes i understand when you "rent" not loan these tool you get your money back but if I wanted to buy the parts at the same time to save trips to auto parts
I have a 2001 Honda accord 2.3lx did the pressure test no leaks holds pressure......changed radiator water pump thremostate hoses it doesn't over heat but it builds alot of pressure so much the hoses shake no blown head gasket I'm lost any plz
Everyone keeps telling me OVER and over and over to use one of these. Problem is I can’t afford one! And I don’t think anyone I know has one. So don’t know what my next step is
I like to squeeze the top radiator hose firmly after a customer comes in from a moderate drive it can help determine if they got some leaks if its soft
2011 Jeep rubicon 3.8L… reservoir not sucking back to radiator. What if the pressure holds at 17psi while the engine is off. When I start it and rev it, the psi drops 1psi then bounces right back to 17psi. A blown head gasket would make it jump way up right?
Pressure tested my S10 heater core @ 15psi. No leakdown. When running ac or defrost can smell coolant and getting a film on the windshield. Confused... Like your vids
Mine holds pressure at 14.5 or 15 but is supposed to be at 1.1 bar which is 15.9. I had a fast leak at the radiator hose that I fixed and hoped that was it. It was losing pressure much faster before I clamped it. I can't seem to find the leak but if there is one anymore. I have no symptoms of a bad head gasket. no milky oil, chemical tested the overflow, not overheating, no oil in the rad, exhaust is normal, compression is normal, heat works, no bubbling at the rad when I turn it on, the plugs aren't wet Any ideas?
Im having an issue...coolant will fill up in the resevoir and not drain back into the radiator...i dont have coolant in my oil and no oil in my coolant...no smoke out of the exhaust...no issues driving no idle problems...coolant is only leaking when the resevoir gets full...i have no idea what the problem is...shouldnt be a head gasket with only 74,000 miles on the car...not smelling coolant in the cab...i bled the system and just was getting tiny little bubbles that wouldnt stop...you think a bad water pump would cause bubbling
Longgggg story. I have an 08 pathfinder. Ok so inside my radiator cracked leaking anti freeze into my transmission. I found out Nissan recommendation was new transmission new radiator. F Nissan bc I’m broke and I don’t have 5000 laying around. I found out this is a common issue with a easy fix. Flush the transmission change the radiator done. That issue fixed the main problem. I burped the coolant and let it run for an hr with the yellow funnel after that. When I take off the yellow funnel the car starts to leak coolant for the reservoir over spill. I have changed the water pump/thermostat/hose/fan clutch/radiator/ caps/and coolant. The car after 1hr in idle start pushing out coolant for the reservoir over fill hole. When I drive it the car spits out a lot faster. The oil is milky but that is from me pulling the water pump and coolant getting in. Pleaseeeeee help me.
hi Eric i have not yet done this test yet,but ? is there is a block in system y bc the hose going from engine back to radiator is cold ther is No coolant going threw engine is blocked and i have replaced thermostat now im lost but could it that both the orginal thermostat i pulled out and the New 1 are both BAD or is ther more i pray not im lost but im going to get torch and check the oginal 1 since its right here im getting ready test soon another ? is the cap has on it 1.1 is that the psi of how much psi it will take and now just pump it how much does a kia sorento 2014 psi be is ther a recmmnded psi
I carried out a pressure test on my car. The pressure dropped by .2 bar and then held pressure? I assume this was just because i put to much pressure in the system initially 🤷🏻♂️
I've recently run into a cooling issue and was hoping for some insight. I put a new engine in my car and while burping the coolant system, I noticed that bubbles never really stopped coming up from the radiator. The bubbles are very small. I was able to get a pressure test kit from advance and tested the system at the cap rated pressure, and it help 17lbs for a few hours with no leakage or drop in pressure. Here's the odd part, when I start the car, bubbles begin to emerge from the funnel I'm using to bleed the system. I have even gone as far to remove the thermostat and bleed just to see if the there was an issue with the thermostat (which is new). The bubbles continued. So the cooling system will pass a pressure test, but when running I am almost concerned about a crack in the cylinder.
if the heater core is leaking, it would not hold pressure while performing the pressure test, correct? bc I get a strong smell in my truck when sitting for a few days, but i'm thinking that's bc the heater core and area prob has mold growth on and around.
Eric, I did both a pressure and vacuum test of my coolant system -- is one of them better than the other? Both were ok on my car ... minus blowing off hoses from a pressure test (1 bar), seems a vacuum test is just as good (or better). Any thoughts on that?
Just checked mine. Lost 1 1/2 psi in 8 min. How do I know if block is cracked. Just changed head gasket. Had water in oil. Never checked block. Should I use uv dye?
Help!!...For my year car, the dealer has discontinued these maintenance parts. I have a 95 Honda Civic VX hatch back (1.5L engine). I have a coolant system leak on one of the small diameter, very far back coolant hoses; it goes to the oil cooler. While I am in the system, I would like to replace all of these small dia. hoses (there are 4 total). These 4 hoses have sharp bends to them, so likely, universal products won't work. Can you give me a few after market companies that would carry these products? Thanks, Chris
great videos I'm trying to charge my AC system or "top off" but my caps are not red and blue they are both black ??? its a 98 E-150 ford I think its a 4.6 L any ideas how I tell the low from high ....
on my L67 3800 engine the gasket for the thermostat is going mushy and breaking down a bit. also there is this white stain in several areas (where hoses attach to engine) but i've been told that happens when you use additives (i used liquimoly fuel system cleaner, and injector cleaner) it could be a head gasket? anyway the car has a few problems but it's a peice of shit(handy) so i'll leave it unless it gives me problems.
What would cause the heater hose to not relieve pressure after removing your pressure tester. It's on an 07 hhr with 2.2 One hose is Rock hard the other kinds sorta hard. I can't see a clogged heater core causing this, shouldnt it leak down with the radiator cap off??
The hose running to the thermostat housing is kinda sorta hard and the other I think just runs to the block but is extremely hard and not losing the pressure....even after 5 min plus with the cap off.
I have been running all my cars unpressurised since 1976. An unpressurised system ensures greater reliability. At sea level plain water boils at 100C (212F) but coolant at the correct strength boils at approx. 128C. Therefore we already have a sufficient margin of safety. Pressurised systems put a severe strain on the radiator, the radiator & heater hoses & can cause leaks which combined with the high pressure, forces the coolant out of the system quickly. This leads rapidly to overheating with the subsequent warping of the alloy cylinder head/s & great expense. Unpressurised systems do not force the coolant out of any minor leaks & can save the cylinder head from warping. About 30 years ago in Australia, the air cooled Volkswagen was voted the most reliable car. Why? Because it is air cooled & this eliminates all the problems of pressurised systems & warped cylinder heads. As i said i have been running all my cars unpressurised since 1976 without any overheating problems & i would not have it any other way. Many cars today are already running unpressurised because of a faulty radiator cap which may unwittingly have saved the motorists great expense. Just remember to maintain the coolant at the approx. correct strength & change the coolant at the recommended intervals. If you keep topping up with plain water the strength will deteriorate & the coolant will boil at less than 128C, So top up with the correct coolant strength & not just with plain water. I will no doubt receive gasps of horror from automotive engineers but i have been doing this successfully for a very long time.
Eric I know this is off topic but it wouldnt allow me to send you a private msg. I own a 1999 Pontiac grand am gt. I will be replacing the intake manifold gaskets and have heard this is a common problem with this car. I was advised not to use the OEM gaskets because they are made of a composite material. I'm looking for some tips/advice on completing this task and what brand/type of gasket you would go with. Fel-pro PermaDry?.. or something else?
Hey there, got a 2000 civic dx with coolant being pushed out of the radiator into the reservoir on the side. I notice dried coolant around the thermostat housing. The radiator holds pressure but I still have an overheating problem. Can the leaking around the thermostat contribute to the air getting into the cooling system?
First, a safety tip. Never remove a radiator cap unless it is cold ! You should also check the radiator cap. All have some kind of gasket, typically rubber. Make sure it is in good condition. The same tool usually comes with an adapter for testing the radiator cap. "Expansion tanks" are sometimes called remote cooling system/radiator reservoir. Same thing, different name. They are not overflow/"burp" tanks which are NOT pressurized ! An expansion tank IS pressurized..
that is a shamed design. That honda needs a "shrinker tank", nevermind expansion. (more radiator). A company called CSF used to have alot for those little hondas.. search around for the brass/copper.
hi Eric I have problem in my car, its 99 Renault Megane 1.9 D diesel the problem is that the pressure rise quickly when I close the expansion vase cap (touching the upper radiator hose) I change head gasket when I remove the glow plug from the 2 cylinder and start engine the pressure is normal (other pressure rise) I change the cylinder head and the problem persists is it the block? (I am thinking Sleeving the 2 cylinder) what do you think
I put approx 10 liters of antifreeze into the radiator and overflow bottle. My car 1986 Econoliner V8, and it drives like a dream but the windows become very foggy, very soon ? Does it sound serious, headgasket or just the heater system inside the compartment ? I can smell the antifreese from within.. Don´t see any leaks under the car...at first glance..
Gidday Eric, this question all the way from Australia mate. I have a vehicle that is holding pressure in the cooling system over night, when I open the expansion tank cap it gives off a whoosh type of noise. The motor is stone cold and in 30 odd years of working on my own cars have never ever come across this problem before. I have recently had some overheating issues with the car and only just changed out the rad cap amongst other item like radiator, water pump, hoses, coolant sensor and thermo stat, I have read that it maybe a head gasket problem, what do you reckon mate..Hey love the videos, always hanging out for the next one...cheers..... PS. I should mention the model vehicle I have is a 1996 EL Ford Falcon 4.0L 6cyc, and are know for doing head gaskets..alloy head as well.
If you can't locate the leak because there is too much coolant laying around the engine compartment, hose it down first, Use a leaf blower to get rid of the excess water. Then pressure test. They also sell special dyes that a black light sensitive. In theory, they work well for very small/slow leaks. Again, start with a relatively clean/dry engine.
Eric, my coolant reservoir tank is bubbling over when I turn my truck off (2002 Ranger). I used a block tester and found no combustion gases in the cooling system. The truck is not overheating. What could be my problem, and could a pressure test help me find it?
Hey Erick, quick question. I realize this is an old video but I've seen newer videos from you. I have a 1982 gmc sierra classic. I have installed a new radiator and my pressure test will not hold pressure at all. No leaks are found in my system at all. I steering toward a blown head gasket. The spark plug on number 5 was wet (with water) when I pulled it out. I really wanting to test test test before I pull EVERYTHING off to put new head gaskets on. What are your thoughts. Thanks man. I cant tell ya how many of your videos I've watched. You have helped me many times. Hope all is well.
Hello Eric. Could you give me an advice to my problem? I took out the thermostat on a benzine engine but ran it for 2 minutes without coolant and without thermostat and thermostat cover and the engine works bad, uneven, shakes a little more. Could this be just because there is no water and the head gasket leaks and has no pressure from the water/coolant?Should I install a new thermostat or change the head gasket? Thanks in advance
Would you use a worm drive clamp on rad hoses? I just checked how my new rad hoses were going and I believe I saw a bit of coolant. I loosened the clamp, cleaned it up and installed it again, making sure the hose was on good and the clamp was secure, tight enough where it cant screw on much more. I'll check again tomorrow but I just wanna be sure I'm not losing any coolant.
Eric, What are your views on using distilled water with coolant? I know many shops use standard tap water with a traditional coolant drain and refill. Do you see any harm doing so? Especially if a regular maintenance interval is followed. Newer coolants are premixed and include distilled or deionized water out of the box. I've got an older Toyota and have replaced the coolant each year with standard tap water and coolant and am wondering if I am doing any harm. Maybe you could post a video about coolants? Thanks, Mike
Eric I have a leak at the radiator heater hose a small drip. I have tested for head gasket and crack block diesel chemical test for a diesel 6.5 turbo chevy and I don't get a change in the color. I did have air in the radiator so I bleed the air out but I still have a leak at the heater hose. I don't have any leaks at the heater core and the radiator has never gotten hot. I cut back the heater hose and put on a new clamp and installed a new GM radiator cap. Do you have any ideas what I should check? Should I put on a new heater hose? Thank you
I have a 95 tahoe 5.7 with oil or ATF in the radiator. But no coolant in the oil or trans. Compression is great on all 8. If I disconnect the ATF lines to the radiator, would this pressure test tell me for sure whether it's a leaking head/intake gasket, or a internal leak for the ATF cooler? I dont mind replacing all gaskets and throwing in a new radiator, but I'd like to know the exact source of the problem before I start replacing stuff.
I've taken my '04 Celica to the shop the other day to have the plugs changed out and they told me my water pump was leaking and doing a power flush would cause the leak to get worse. Here's my problem. I have not had any signs of a leakweather it's overheating or any spots on the ground and the expansion tank is 1/2 full . I thought about using the dye you use to look for leak on A/C systems to try to find it. You think maybe the shop is trying to con me for a $300 water pump job?
One of my works full size passenger vans was loosing coolant with no visible leaks and puddles left after parking it. We took it in and found out it was an internal leak in the intake gasket. It had a Chevy SB350. The labor to replace it was not cheap.
I have a question, on my 2000 new Beetle I was suspecting a bad coolant pump. So I blew into the return line the cooling system it goes to the coolant reservoir, and I had to blow really hard and then all the sudden it felt like a busted through. I don't know if that was just me having to get through the water pressure of the weight of the water or if I actually blew something through is it possible did I blew something through and fix it? Another question I have is, when you pressure test and there is a leak it can be hard to find if you just have water in there oh, so can I purchase a inexpensive food coloring like a neon color it's easy to see but that in the water? And last but not least can the coolant temperature sending unit going bad cause a engine to overheat on a 2000 new Beetle 2.0? Thanks for the help, and you know what, you should sell baseball hats with your logo on it or something. Later G banger Eric.
Air in the system affects idle in newer cars,which is what led me to inspecting my radiator. And I found wetness on the upper tank crimping on my radiator. Probably no way to repair it. Better off spending the $60.00 for a new one.
Eric, I don't know if you've discussed this before but is there a right or wrong antifreeze to use in a vehicle? If so, why would auto zone make an antifreeze that can be used for any make and model? This really bugs me and I would love to hear your opinion on this.
Nasty leak inside the passenger compartment, behind a closed door under the dash close to the heater fan blower... Car drives very well. Never overheats. Fan heater works very well.. Radiator looks fine, nothing un der the car..Foggy inside car..
i'm here binge watching your channel because of three reasons 1) i'm getting a car soon 2) i don't have the best relationship with my dad although he is really good with cars and 3) (the most important) paul walker
How come there is not a single tool for both presser testing as well as refilling the coolant system ? Why must we buy a presser tester as well as an "Air lift " Would the snap on SVTS2000 do the trick? Thanks for your time
Hi Eric. I have a 97 silverado. we've gone threw 4 radiators going on 5. it has a new water pump and thermostat (2years old) but my radiators keep blowing. any sugestions
hey +Ericthecarguy would a radiator cap not holding pressure make the heater Luke warm instead of hot or what could be the problem. I tried flushing the heater core. I put a new radiator in the truck is a 02 ram with 5.9
thank you for your videos eric, Im sorry u decided to quite. U've taught me quite a bit. not even about cars, but about the methodological approach to problem solving. sherlock Holmes has nothing on you, my friend.
Hi Eric I have a Lexus 2001 is300 and my heat comes on when I put it on but only passenger side gets hot and driver stays a bit cold and after a few minutes both get cold can u help me out?
Rather than buying a vacuum pump for every test you need to do, is there an all in one product with all the different adapters so you can pressure test everything such as coolant system, bleeding brakes, checking for intake manifold leaks, etc ?
hey what's up my friend I have a question for you I have a Mitsubishi Montero 2000 I change the camshaft seals and I messed up the timing and I don't know how to put it back can you help me with that that car is out of time
Hey eric, thanks for the video! i had a blown head gasket, so i got that replaced; however, i am still loosing coolant somewhere. there are no external leaks, and someone said it could be coming out the exhaust but the shop said that's just water. can i still be leaking internally if it holds pressure?
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As an experienced general engineer I wasn't expecting to learn anything new but I came across you Eric just whilst browsing You Tube so watched out of interest (as you do and after all we all learn off of each other don't we?) I posted a comment to say that your no nonsense style of presentation is one of the best on You Tube. No bells, no whistles, just damned good clear advice. Please keep 'em coming, I have subscribed. Thank you!
Eric you are by far the greatest uploader of vehicle repair and "basics" i have ever seen and very much enjoy them keep it up!
I've watched several of your videos. Your efforts to help others is greatly appreciated. I've been able to successfully perform many automotive repairs (for myself and family members) due to your videos and tips. Thank you and I hope to see more of your videos (hopefully for fun only) in the future.
Thanks for the basics video I'm turning 14 and my dad won't get me a car unless I know to fix it I have 2 years to go but I know almost nothing about cars
korynnininm You have a great father.
good dad!
You are 18, hows life?
@ABC ABC cause tbh he doesn't know shit I ended up taking 2 years of autos class I high school
@@korynnininm 😂😂
Just came here to say thank you Eric for spreading your knowledge to youtube and helping so many people out with their cars. You rock man!
One note, you should go over the testing of the Rad cap, I find many bad caps are the cause of overheats, as they either do not seal or no longer hold the rated PSI
Yes and it is usually the non return valve in the cap that leaks out to the overflow bottle.
I covered that in the overheat video which there is a link to in the description.
EricTheCarGuy You went over caps but NO TESTING of the caps, no adapters for caps?. I figured it would give you another basics video.
Michael Berg No I did not have adapters to check those caps. The only adapter I have is for the 'old school' large caps that you hardly see anymore. I agree that is something that would be nice to cover in the future. Thanks for the suggestion.
EricTheCarGuy I have a problem that I can't solve, it's on a 2002 Cadillac Escalade, it has the expansion tank type cooling system there are no leaks but it won't bleed and stay bleeded so the heater is not working right and now it's causing a lot of problems like the transmission not working right, this is my friends SUV and all I did was changed the spark plugs and thermostat and now he thinks I caused the problem, before I started it ran ok but the heater in the dash was not working right but the rear heater was so he wanted me to change the thermostat and when I did it came out in pieces, this is the type of thermostat built into the water neck so I put the old water neck back in so I can flush the system a couple of times with water then put some blue devil flush in and ran the engine to get all the gunk out and a lot came out then I flush with water 3 more times then put in antifreeze but I had a very hard time getting the air out what do you think
he blinks in slow-motion :)
Checked then he was like hehe blinking blinking
so should i just put about 5psi to 7 in for the 5mins
It is a sign of a calm person.
😅😅
DISTILLED water, make sure you use distilled.
Is it because it is thin and not thick?
Probabily helps with corrosion
I'm planning to do this test soon, but I'm wondering if I can find a way if I can include the actual radiator cap in the test? I mean it was supposed to open up at a certain PSI right? maybe I can fabricate an adaptor to inject pressure to the top radiator hose? Will that do?
I'm loving the "Basic Series" of videos. Is like watching ETCG 3 years ago.
A new video on the use of the mechanic stethoscope would be so awesome!
Thanks for your time and effort Eric!
Any ideas what's wrong when coolant only leaks after shutting down engine and its not the water pump?
Thank you Eric you're pretty smart guy thanks for sharing your knowledge I'd hook you up with my sister but she's married. Lol
Eric my system (G35) wouldn't pressurize until I pinched the tube going to the overflow bottle, It would just keep blowing air, once pinched it held 15psi for minute with no leaks. any suggestion
Great video. Extremely informative and easy to follow. Thank you.
Hi Eric. Thanks for putting all these videos up. They are some of the best and easy to understand. It makes me want to be a professional mechanic.
What if the coolant cap is the source of the leak? I had that happen on one if my old cars. It was pretty confusing to find!
That's why for myself I'll continue to feed air in the overflow 1/2 inch hose to 15 lbs. [that's safe and enough] with the cap on, its a two way valve in itself. if it holds before and after I remove the feed hose all is almost good. Almost in a way a lightly cracked head at times may only leak when at full hot, This way you would not have missed that cap bleeding down.
hey man I may have said this on other videos of yours but I really appreciate you taking the time to explain diagnostics. It's really helpful to learn the methods to diagnose your own problems or at least problem areas so you don't go throwing parts at something that's not the problem.
Seems like an indispensable tool. I haven't needed on yet, but you have me convinced that having one might be a good idea as our family's cars get older. Thanks for the great video as always.
8 years ago on this video. I just picked one of these up. If I ran a vacuum on 15 psi and it took 30 mins to leak to 11 psi. Is there a leak or just it's losing vacuum itself
On some vehicles you have to clamp down one or two bypass hoses in order to built adequate pressure! This is as specially true on some GM Vans and others with a plastic reservoir. Also like to mention that you can change the seals on the pressure adapters and most kits come with extras, but sometimes you have to make your own to compensate for bad sealing on the adapter itself!
curious if you can fix the crack plastic welding it? but probably a quick fix not a great fix
Hi eric. I have a slight coolant leak somewhere (I top up about 50ml coolant a week) , my rad hoses are rock hard top and bottom (and both really warm), the coolant is trying to escape via my header tank (almost busting out at times), my heater matrix has sprung a leak so it's now disconnected, my fans come on as they should. I also have a misfire on low revs....but..i have NO overheating issues, the car idles great, runs OK when cold on start up, but it almost failed emissions test with high Co2, boosts well when it gets through that initial low rev misfire.... I've been told it's a head gasket but it's NOT overheating at all?? What do u think eric? Oh, I drive a Subaru Impreza WRX 2.0 TURBO, grey import. Cheers 🥂
head gasket, will start overheating when coolant is gone.
When either my son or I have a problem with our cars I always tell him to check Eric The Car Guy. I tell him that this site is a good educational tool for the armature or novice mechanic. Keep up the good work.
What if the leak is slow? Is this normal, lets say like 2-3 minutes per psi?
After the first 100,000 failures on those plastic tanks I'm wondering why they didn't change the design...
I blew my radiator doing that by over pressurizing the system
Why did you over pressurize did you not follow the psi pressure recommended on the cap.
I'm bingewatching your channel. Seriously, thank you for all these videos.
Another awesome video, well explained. Your one of the best!!!!
This is like a university course on automotive engineering. Eric is literally the best on TH-cam for this sort of thing.
I bought that leak tester but it’s leaking from beneath the cap 🤣🤣🤣 and I bought it long time about 6 months so no return or complain omg 😱 waste of money I’ll try to see if there is a way to do something or just take the nozzle and drill on old cap then weld it 😅 I think that’s what I’ll do damn this
why do you always have a honda
2002 Camry here. If my car was in a collision prior to my purchase in 2011 could the block have been damaged but not show this till 2024? I drive the car from Ventura to wash state 2011. 5/24 the gage that was always 2 digits from cold suddenly went to H. Theory is: wash/oregon has much colder temps than California ; we’ve had many freezes and temps over 100, combined with a damaged block, perhaps the crack has been compressing expanding? Car works fine just idling but the moment it’s driven it goes bezerk. Car overheats due to Coolant is rapidly dumped. Every mechanic had a diff. Opinion after pressure test. Replaced everything but the head gasket, block, Heater core. Car started with low mileage, has 168k now however I know lots with Toyotas high mileage never experienced overheating or coolant loss so mileage is not a factor. Maybe the accident before I bought it had damaged block that simply worsened with freeze then extreme hot weather ? Is there a block test? A recent shop say the leak in behind the intake manifold gasket. They can’t conclude what? A 6/28 3 hours head gasket test, thereafter mechanic say the 3 cylinder was observed as abnormal but no proof yet it’s head gasket. Believed is possibly the very start of one. I’ve had none of the serious symptoms most gets bec. Shops says the leak is external . the severest issue is rapid dumping of coolant
It would be nice to see this done on one of those newer systems, with no rad cap. Those are sometimes a little confusing.
2:30 ... actually watch the video... :P
It's basically the same process.
Hey I know you, watched your videos, here's one for scotty, How about take a pressure gauge,connect a shutoff and 2 small hoses and pump from your air source entering through the overflow hose connector. that's good for all ,screw the rad cap. and all that pumper contraption and various fittings. Yeah baby!
The main problem I have with my pressure testing kit is that the adapters don't fit all vehicles. It's more complicated than you might first think, because the seal for the pressure testing needs to be deep to the overflow passage, so that air doesn't reflux back to atmosphere. So, it's the deeper seal, not the one at the outer lip of the radiator. The other issue with just hooking up to shop air is that you are looking for a fall of pressure when you stop pumping the pressure up. I guess you could turn off the shop air or turn the valve off, but at some point the effort to make your own is not worth it. Remember not to overdo the pressure beyond about 15psi, you could cause more problems with too much pressure. Some auto parts stores will loan equipment like this, too, so you aren't saving a lot of dough.
Many parts stores "loan" tools these days. What they usually do is sell you the tool, then when you return it the return the money as long as you didn't damage the tool. BUT check it over in the store before you leave. In this case the tester may come with say 5 adapters. You don't check and one is missing. When you bring it back they can charge you for the missing part.
Blazer02LS yup autozone wanted 275 for radiator pressure tester fuck that lol
@West Park yes your right unfortunately when your on a budget and only have money for parts where the hell am i gonna get the rest of the money for the parts yes i understand when you "rent" not loan these tool you get your money back but if I wanted to buy the parts at the same time to save trips to auto parts
I have a 2001 Honda accord 2.3lx did the pressure test no leaks holds pressure......changed radiator water pump thremostate hoses it doesn't over heat but it builds alot of pressure so much the hoses shake no blown head gasket I'm lost any plz
Everyone keeps telling me OVER and over and over to use one of these. Problem is I can’t afford one! And I don’t think anyone I know has one. So don’t know what my next step is
Hey Eric the car guy. You should record a video on how to correctly replace a camshaft synchronizer in a distributorless system.
I like to squeeze the top radiator hose firmly after a customer comes in from a moderate drive it can help determine if they got some leaks if its soft
What constitutes " holding pressure"? I just tested mine. it dropped from 16 to 14 1/2 in 2 minutes
snap on makes an amazing pressure testing/filling makes refilling coolant easy and fast
2011 Jeep rubicon 3.8L… reservoir not sucking back to radiator.
What if the pressure holds at 17psi while the engine is off. When I start it and rev it, the psi drops 1psi then bounces right back to 17psi. A blown head gasket would make it jump way up right?
Pressure tested my S10 heater core @ 15psi. No leakdown.
When running ac or defrost can smell coolant and getting a film on the windshield.
Confused...
Like your vids
Mine holds pressure at 14.5 or 15 but is supposed to be at 1.1 bar which is 15.9. I had a fast leak at the radiator hose that I fixed and hoped that was it. It was losing pressure much faster before I clamped it. I can't seem to find the leak but if there is one anymore. I have no symptoms of a bad head gasket. no milky oil, chemical tested the overflow, not overheating, no oil in the rad, exhaust is normal, compression is normal, heat works, no bubbling at the rad when I turn it on, the plugs aren't wet
Any ideas?
Im having an issue...coolant will fill up in the resevoir and not drain back into the radiator...i dont have coolant in my oil and no oil in my coolant...no smoke out of the exhaust...no issues driving no idle problems...coolant is only leaking when the resevoir gets full...i have no idea what the problem is...shouldnt be a head gasket with only 74,000 miles on the car...not smelling coolant in the cab...i bled the system and just was getting tiny little bubbles that wouldnt stop...you think a bad water pump would cause bubbling
Longgggg story.
I have an 08 pathfinder. Ok so inside my radiator cracked leaking anti freeze into my transmission. I found out Nissan recommendation was new transmission new radiator. F Nissan bc I’m broke and I don’t have 5000 laying around. I found out this is a common issue with a easy fix. Flush the transmission change the radiator done. That issue fixed the main problem. I burped the coolant and let it run for an hr with the yellow funnel after that. When I take off the yellow funnel the car starts to leak coolant for the reservoir over spill. I have changed the water pump/thermostat/hose/fan clutch/radiator/ caps/and coolant. The car after 1hr in idle start pushing out coolant for the reservoir over fill hole. When I drive it the car spits out a lot faster. The oil is milky but that is from me pulling the water pump and coolant getting in. Pleaseeeeee help me.
hi Eric i have not yet done this test yet,but ? is there is a block in system y bc the hose going from engine back to radiator is cold ther is No coolant going threw engine is blocked and i have replaced thermostat now im lost but could it that both the orginal thermostat i pulled out and the New 1 are both BAD or is ther more i pray not im lost but im going to get torch and check the oginal 1 since its right here im getting ready test soon another ? is the cap has on it 1.1 is that the psi of how much psi it will take and now just pump it how much does a kia sorento 2014 psi be is ther a recmmnded psi
What happens if you 30lbs of pressure when the system only runs at 14 to 18? Is that bad? Did I most likely mess something up?
I carried out a pressure test on my car. The pressure dropped by .2 bar and then held pressure? I assume this was just because i put to much pressure in the system initially 🤷🏻♂️
Great video Eric! Lots of really useful information.
I've recently run into a cooling issue and was hoping for some insight. I put a new engine in my car and while burping the coolant system, I noticed that bubbles never really stopped coming up from the radiator. The bubbles are very small. I was able to get a pressure test kit from advance and tested the system at the cap rated pressure, and it help 17lbs for a few hours with no leakage or drop in pressure. Here's the odd part, when I start the car, bubbles begin to emerge from the funnel I'm using to bleed the system. I have even gone as far to remove the thermostat and bleed just to see if the there was an issue with the thermostat (which is new). The bubbles continued. So the cooling system will pass a pressure test, but when running I am almost concerned about a crack in the cylinder.
if the heater core is leaking, it would not hold pressure while performing the pressure test, correct? bc I get a strong smell in my truck when sitting for a few days, but i'm thinking that's bc the heater core and area prob has mold growth on and around.
When I release pressure I get doused with coolant coming back up through the tester. Is that normal
U measure lbs to psi by suggesting, estimating or there's a suffix or method to be run & go with to be no. ed
Eric, I did both a pressure and vacuum test of my coolant system -- is one of them better than the other? Both were ok on my car ... minus blowing off hoses from a pressure test (1 bar), seems a vacuum test is just as good (or better). Any thoughts on that?
First thing I would check with an overheating car, is the oil.
if it's white and milky you have a sure fire head gasket problem.
Just checked mine. Lost 1 1/2 psi in 8 min. How do I know if block is cracked. Just changed head gasket. Had water in oil. Never checked block. Should I use uv dye?
Exhaust gas checker, lisle makes one, it changes the color of the a liquid in a cylinder they give you
please tell me what brand your test kit is, please? very interested in your testing.
Help!!...For my year car, the dealer has discontinued these maintenance
parts.
I have a 95 Honda Civic VX hatch back (1.5L engine). I have a
coolant system leak on one of the small diameter, very far back coolant hoses;
it goes to the oil cooler. While I am in the system, I would like to replace
all of these small dia. hoses (there are 4 total). These 4 hoses have sharp bends to them, so likely, universal products won't work. Can you give me a few after market
companies that would carry these products?
Thanks, Chris
great videos I'm trying to charge my AC system or "top off" but my caps are not red and blue they are both black ??? its a 98 E-150 ford I think its a 4.6 L any ideas how I tell the low from high ....
TH-cam is how I’m learning to be a mechanic basically
on my L67 3800 engine the gasket for the thermostat is going mushy and breaking down a bit. also there is this white stain in several areas (where hoses attach to engine) but i've been told that happens when you use additives (i used liquimoly fuel system cleaner, and injector cleaner) it could be a head gasket? anyway the car has a few problems but it's a peice of shit(handy) so i'll leave it unless it gives me problems.
What would cause the heater hose to not relieve pressure after removing your pressure tester. It's on an 07 hhr with 2.2
One hose is Rock hard the other kinds sorta hard. I can't see a clogged heater core causing this, shouldnt it leak down with the radiator cap off??
The hose running to the thermostat housing is kinda sorta hard and the other I think just runs to the block but is extremely hard and not losing the pressure....even after 5 min plus with the cap off.
I have been running all my cars unpressurised since 1976. An unpressurised system ensures greater reliability. At sea level plain water boils at 100C (212F) but coolant at the correct strength boils at approx. 128C. Therefore we already have a sufficient margin of safety. Pressurised systems put a severe strain on the radiator, the radiator & heater hoses & can cause leaks which combined with the high pressure, forces the coolant out of the system quickly. This leads rapidly to overheating with the subsequent warping of the alloy cylinder head/s & great expense. Unpressurised systems do not force the coolant out of any minor leaks & can save the cylinder head from warping. About 30 years ago in Australia, the air cooled Volkswagen was voted the most reliable car. Why? Because it is air cooled & this eliminates all the problems of pressurised systems & warped cylinder heads. As i said i have been running all my cars unpressurised since 1976 without any overheating problems & i would not have it any other way. Many cars today are already running unpressurised because of a faulty radiator cap which may unwittingly have saved the motorists great expense. Just remember to maintain the coolant at the approx. correct strength & change the coolant at the recommended intervals. If you keep topping up with plain water the strength will deteriorate & the coolant will boil at less than 128C, So top up with the correct coolant strength & not just with plain water. I will no doubt receive gasps of horror from automotive engineers but i have been doing this successfully for a very long time.
Eric I know this is off topic but it wouldnt allow me to send you a private msg. I own a 1999 Pontiac grand am gt. I will be replacing the intake manifold gaskets and have heard this is a common problem with this car. I was advised not to use the OEM gaskets because they are made of a composite material. I'm looking for some tips/advice on completing this task and what brand/type of gasket you would go with. Fel-pro PermaDry?.. or something else?
My Mazda Tribute doesn't have a radiator cap what are your thoughts
Hey there, got a 2000 civic dx with coolant being pushed out of the radiator into the reservoir on the side. I notice dried coolant around the thermostat housing. The radiator holds pressure but I still have an overheating problem. Can the leaking around the thermostat contribute to the air getting into the cooling system?
Are you supposed to drain the coolant system before pressure testing?
First, a safety tip. Never remove a radiator cap unless it is cold !
You should also check the radiator cap. All have some kind of gasket, typically rubber. Make sure it is in good condition. The same tool usually comes with an adapter for testing the radiator cap.
"Expansion tanks" are sometimes called remote cooling system/radiator reservoir. Same thing, different name. They are not overflow/"burp" tanks which are NOT pressurized ! An expansion tank IS pressurized..
that is a shamed design. That honda needs a "shrinker tank", nevermind expansion. (more radiator). A company called CSF used to have alot for those little hondas.. search around for the brass/copper.
hi Eric I have problem in my car, its 99 Renault Megane 1.9 D diesel
the problem is that the pressure rise quickly when I close the expansion vase cap (touching the upper radiator hose)
I change head gasket
when I remove the glow plug from the 2 cylinder and start engine the pressure is normal (other pressure rise)
I change the cylinder head and the problem persists
is it the block? (I am thinking Sleeving the 2 cylinder)
what do you think
I put approx 10 liters of antifreeze into the radiator and overflow bottle. My car 1986 Econoliner V8, and it drives like a dream but the windows become very foggy, very soon ? Does it sound serious, headgasket or just the heater system inside the compartment ? I can smell the antifreese from within.. Don´t see any leaks under the car...at first glance..
Gidday Eric, this question all the way from Australia mate. I have a vehicle that is holding pressure in the cooling system over night, when I open the expansion tank cap it gives off a whoosh type of noise. The motor is stone cold and in 30 odd years of working on my own cars have never ever come across this problem before. I have recently had some overheating issues with the car and only just changed out the rad cap amongst other item like radiator, water pump, hoses, coolant sensor and thermo stat, I have read that it maybe a head gasket problem, what do you reckon mate..Hey love the videos, always hanging out for the next one...cheers..... PS. I should mention the model vehicle I have is a 1996 EL Ford Falcon 4.0L 6cyc, and are know for doing head gaskets..alloy head as well.
If you can't locate the leak because there is too much coolant laying around the engine compartment, hose it down first, Use a leaf blower to get rid of the excess water. Then pressure test.
They also sell special dyes that a black light sensitive. In theory, they work well for very small/slow leaks. Again, start with a relatively clean/dry engine.
Eric, my coolant reservoir tank is bubbling over when I turn my truck off (2002 Ranger). I used a block tester and found no combustion gases in the cooling system. The truck is not overheating. What could be my problem, and could a pressure test help me find it?
Hey Erick, quick question. I realize this is an old video but I've seen newer videos from you. I have a 1982 gmc sierra classic. I have installed a new radiator and my pressure test will not hold pressure at all. No leaks are found in my system at all. I steering toward a blown head gasket. The spark plug on number 5 was wet (with water) when I pulled it out. I really wanting to test test test before I pull EVERYTHING off to put new head gaskets on. What are your thoughts. Thanks man. I cant tell ya how many of your videos I've watched. You have helped me many times. Hope all is well.
Hello Eric. Could you give me an advice to my problem? I took out the thermostat on a benzine engine but ran it for 2 minutes without coolant and without thermostat and thermostat cover and the engine works bad, uneven, shakes a little more. Could this be just because there is no water and the head gasket leaks and has no pressure from the water/coolant?Should I install a new thermostat or change the head gasket? Thanks in advance
Would you use a worm drive clamp on rad hoses? I just checked how my new rad hoses were going and I believe I saw a bit of coolant. I loosened the clamp, cleaned it up and installed it again, making sure the hose was on good and the clamp was secure, tight enough where it cant screw on much more. I'll check again tomorrow but I just wanna be sure I'm not losing any coolant.
Eric,
What are your views on using distilled water with coolant? I know many shops use standard tap water with a traditional coolant drain and refill. Do you see any harm doing so? Especially if a regular maintenance interval is followed. Newer coolants are premixed and include distilled or deionized water out of the box. I've got an older Toyota and have replaced the coolant each year with standard tap water and coolant and am wondering if I am doing any harm.
Maybe you could post a video about coolants?
Thanks,
Mike
Eric I have a leak at the radiator heater hose a small drip. I have tested for head gasket and crack block diesel chemical test for a diesel 6.5 turbo chevy and I don't get a change in the color. I did have air in the radiator so I bleed the air out but I still have a leak at the heater hose. I don't have any leaks at the heater core and the radiator has never gotten hot. I cut back the heater hose and put on a new clamp and installed a new
GM radiator cap. Do you have any ideas what I should check? Should I put on a new heater hose? Thank you
I have a 95 tahoe 5.7 with oil or ATF in the radiator. But no coolant in the oil or trans. Compression is great on all 8. If I disconnect the ATF lines to the radiator, would this pressure test tell me for sure whether it's a leaking head/intake gasket, or a internal leak for the ATF cooler? I dont mind replacing all gaskets and throwing in a new radiator, but I'd like to know the exact source of the problem before I start replacing stuff.
I've taken my '04 Celica to the shop the other day to have the plugs changed out and they told me my water pump was leaking and doing a power flush would cause the leak to get worse. Here's my problem. I have not had any signs of a leakweather it's overheating or any spots on the ground and the expansion tank is 1/2 full . I thought about using the dye you use to look for leak on A/C systems to try to find it. You think maybe the shop is trying to con me for a $300 water pump job?
but the gauge was slowly going down so there is a light leak somewhere either ur tester or somewhere within the system
One of my works full size passenger vans was loosing coolant with no visible leaks and puddles left after parking it. We took it in and found out it was an internal leak in the intake gasket. It had a Chevy SB350. The labor to replace it was not cheap.
Both those tester links are for the same cheap junk tester Just so you know
I have a question, on my 2000 new Beetle I was suspecting a bad coolant pump. So I blew into the return line the cooling system it goes to the coolant reservoir, and I had to blow really hard and then all the sudden it felt like a busted through. I don't know if that was just me having to get through the water pressure of the weight of the water or if I actually blew something through is it possible did I blew something through and fix it? Another question I have is, when you pressure test and there is a leak it can be hard to find if you just have water in there oh, so can I purchase a inexpensive food coloring like a neon color it's easy to see but that in the water? And last but not least can the coolant temperature sending unit going bad cause a engine to overheat on a 2000 new Beetle 2.0? Thanks for the help, and you know what, you should sell baseball hats with your logo on it or something. Later G banger Eric.
Air in the system affects idle in newer cars,which is what led me to inspecting my radiator. And I found wetness on the upper tank crimping on my radiator. Probably no way to repair it. Better off spending the $60.00 for a new one.
Eric, I don't know if you've discussed this before but is there a right or wrong antifreeze to use in a vehicle? If so, why would auto zone make an antifreeze that can be used for any make and model? This really bugs me and I would love to hear your opinion on this.
Nasty leak inside the passenger compartment, behind a closed door under the dash close to the heater fan blower... Car drives very well. Never overheats. Fan heater works very well.. Radiator looks fine, nothing un der the car..Foggy inside car..
i'm here binge watching your channel because of three reasons 1) i'm getting a car soon 2) i don't have the best relationship with my dad although he is really good with cars and 3) (the most important) paul walker
Advance auto parts does the the "loan a tool" radiator pressure tester.
How come there is not a single tool for both presser testing as well as refilling the coolant system ? Why must we buy a presser tester as well as an "Air lift " Would the snap on SVTS2000 do the trick? Thanks for your time
Hi Eric. I have a 97 silverado. we've gone threw 4 radiators going on 5. it has a new water pump and thermostat (2years old) but my radiators keep blowing. any sugestions
hey +Ericthecarguy would a radiator cap not holding pressure make the heater Luke warm instead of hot or what could be the problem. I tried flushing the heater core. I put a new radiator in the truck is a 02 ram with 5.9
okay E, I'm about to start your video on radiator compression test...... I'm putting my faith in you, lol
thank you for your videos eric, Im sorry u decided to quite. U've taught me quite a bit. not even about cars, but about the methodological approach to problem solving. sherlock Holmes has nothing on you, my friend.
Hi Eric I have a Lexus 2001 is300 and my heat comes on when I put it on but only passenger side gets hot and driver stays a bit cold and after a few minutes both get cold can u help me out?
Rather than buying a vacuum pump for every test you need to do, is there an all in one product with all the different adapters so you can pressure test everything such as coolant system, bleeding brakes, checking for intake manifold leaks, etc ?
hey what's up my friend I have a question for you I have a Mitsubishi Montero 2000 I change the camshaft seals and I messed up the timing and I don't know how to put it back can you help me with that that car is out of time
Hey eric, thanks for the video! i had a blown head gasket, so i got that replaced; however, i am still loosing coolant somewhere. there are no external leaks, and someone said it could be coming out the exhaust but the shop said that's just water. can i still be leaking internally if it holds pressure?
I am thinking about using this tool when I replace my water pump. Should I do this before I bleed the cooling system just to check for leaks?