Worst Subaru Timing Belt Video Ever (Part 1) -EricTheCarGuy
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 16 ก.ย. 2024
- Link to part 2: • Worst Subaru Timing Be...
It's true that in some ways this is the worst Subaru timing belt replacement video ever. The main reason is because of the lack of footage. This was my first attempt at using the GoPro as a POV camera while I worked. The hands free part was great, the camera intermittently cutting out sucked. I didn't realize that I had lost footage until after I started to edit. Once I saw that I was missing come key scenes I became pretty depressed about it. Especially since I had already sold the Subaru and it was long gone, so reshooting was not an option. I did the best I could to pick up the pieces with the voice over. I think it turned out OK. The GoPro is a great camera when it works. In the future I'll be doing things differently. For now, if you really need a good Subaru timing belt replacement video, check this one out from BriansMobile1. He has a few others as well, including one on the DOHC model.
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I wish every car repair video was recorded this way...I can finally see what's going on...Make them all like this Eric!!
Eric, even your "worst" videos are better than 99% of other similar repair videos on youtube.
If you're breaking it down this far, always replace the water pump, the oil pump, the thermostat and the bypass hose. If you're working on a manual transmission car, it's actually easier to do this work with the engine out of the car. Takes about 45 minutes to pull the engine. Bonus.... inspect the clutch and rear main seal and replace easily at this point.
Eric, this is the best view angle ever. I already know how to change this belt, but seeing you do it from your point of perspective and order of operations were different. It kept me watching all the way through comparing your course of actions vs mine. Awesome job! Thank you for the videos!
I word of caution: do not watch this video if you've done any mushrooms.
Looks like I picked the wrong week to quit sniffin' glue.
the air/electric tools that are used at a factory are set at the proper torque for the part/fastener they are to be used on. also the assembly that holds these tools out of the way are given the minimum tension needed so they don't drop to the floor when not in use. that way a worker is not physically over stressed during the period of a his/her shift.
Enjoying this POV, actually quite nice to see you do things fast and easy in your own pace, two hands and all this, seems alot easier than having the damn camera in your hands. Thanks for uploading and taking your time making this video.
Great vid. You were mentioning the Gear Wrenches. I had a complete set of metric ones I got from Canadian Tire about 12 years ago, they were partnership ones, one side said Mastercraft Maximum, and the other side had the trademarked Gear Wrench. I used those for about 6 years, but I wasn't working fulltime during that period, as soon as I started at the dealership, those wrenches started slipping and the ratchet sides were cracking. When I took them in for warranty, supposed to have lifetime, I was told they were no longer made in partnership, and they were not going to give me just Gear Wrench brand ones as replacements, I did receive other tools instead. I went to Napa and bought a kit of them, and I was going in for warranty on at least one of them a week, which I thought was stupid, so I just started buying Bluepoint ones. Now I have 2 sets of Bluepoint metrics, regular length one solid head and one flex head, 1 set of stubby metric solid heads, one set of regular length flex head standards, and one set of stubby flex head standards. In my opinion the Gear Wrench ones are good for the home shop, but not for everyday hard use. I might warranty one of my Bluepoints about every 4-5 months.
This is actually one of my favorite videos from you. I really like the style, with narration over the footage and a point of view shot. It is a lot more similar to actually doing it yourself.
We have gear wrench And I'm sure somebody has mentioned it. But smacking the wrench on a hard surface seems to unlock a bind and get them working again. For us when I do that I'm very happy with them but I never use them to break a nut free as ours always bind after. Nice video though.
Good tip on using an old spark plug as a hose plug.
Also, I thought the timing marks for the crank were on the cog that lives directly behind the pulley. Since the crank has a key that keeps the cog and the crank pulley in the same orientation to the crank no matter what you do. I just ignore the pulley, remove it from the equation without a thought and use the marks on the crank cog to position the crank, belt and cams. Again that DOHC and just from memory. I could be mistaken.
That makes sense. I don't really pay any attention to timing marks (if any) on my crank pulleys either now that I think about it. It is nice to be able to verify timing without pulling the pulley off, though, so I would think they all should have marks somewhere...
Yeah, there was an old school subaru guru on youtube that preferred to run his EA82 without any timing covers, so he could mechanically tune the valve timing on the fly. The only time my belt ever skipped a tooth, without popping the hood, there was no question in my mind that I would to need to reset the belt. A couple teeth made a serious difference in compression for my EJ205. I was just glad it passed a leaked down after I reset the belt. I was very worried that there had been valve interference.
I'm glad I have a camera guy doing all my footage because I know how awkward and annoying moving the camera every 20 seconds can be.... The GoPro was an interesting POV, keep up the good work man.
Eric, you could do a video on how to replace the casters on your cart and I'd still watch it..
eric the car guy simulator
Syphon787G id buy that game haha. Dlc would be "tooling with eric o". Coop in one garage with two erics.
Change your thermostat while you are in there anyway. Overheating and warping heads on a Subaru is a big deal, change the thermostat. OEM is the best one and it's worth the money IMO. Waterpump bolts are 9ft. pounds. It's pretty important IMO if you ever hope to get it off again without breaking one. You don't want to break one.
I just did a timing belt job on a '06 Legacy 2.5i. It's pretty much the same procedure other than the water pump is relocated where you don't have to remove the camshaft pulley. Great vid!
Hey I love the new camera view!! My personal recommendations for a better quality video: sometimes I felt the voice over wasnt loud enough over the background noise, and the missing chunks of video are unfortunate but I understand that they werent your fault. Great video as always, very helpful!!
Thanks for your input. I'll work on making this type of video better in the future.
This first person view is so great, feels like Virtual Reality. Thanks for this video Eric, I always wondered how you worked in real time.
I actually liked the video quality and overhead view. Plus the voice over was very clear and works well to describe the procedures in easy to understand steps. Just was wondering if you can bump your head with the cam attached? Great job!
This is so awesome. You need to try the go pro again! I love the perspective!
I didn't think it was that bad of a video. Thanks Eric, enjoyed it.
I actually really liked the voiceover. I felt like you could just do your job and explain everything with a nice flow if that makes sense. I would love these every once in awhile. Keep it up!
I reckon the go pro camera is great! It make your videos heaps better because were basically seeing things the way you see it and it just looks more professional all round. Good stuff man :D
When Google glass comes down in price I hope your able to get a set Eric. Not to knock the gopro Im happy to watch any new videos you make with any camera. I think the google glass would be purfect for your videos in my opinion.
2006 Subaru Impreza 2.5i non-turbo wagon
Hi Guys, I recently did my first timing belt job. I thought it went well as I started the car and the engine seemed to run fine. A couple of days later I noticed some issues with the engine and decided to get back under the timing belt cover and check things out. Timing belt itself looks fine. Crankshaft and camshaft markings all line up like they should when camshafts markings are straight up. The problem is in getting the crankshaft sprocket marking straight up. The engine is EXTREMELY resistant to being cranked over. This was not a big deal the first time around. In finishing the timing belt install I hand cranked the engine several times by hand to check the timing between the camshafts and crankshaft sprockets and everything looked good. I didn't have any difficulty doing this.
I bench 250lbs x 5 and deadlift 225lbs for a workout and I am now having MUCH more difficulty getting the crankshaft sprocket straight up. The engine wants to spring back against my clockwise cranking of the engine.
Why I Went Under the Timing Belt Cover Again
As I have been using the car in the past few days I noticed that the engine sounds like it knocks when I start it up, but it starts easily. It also makes an extra clicking sort of sound when it idles. Sometimes as it idles, around 500rpm, the revs drops a bit and the i hear/feel a knocking going on. Could that be my ECM still relearning? For the most part the car is running smoother than normal when the ECM is relearning it's fuel mixture.
I notice more vibration out of the engine than normal. I have seen that before, I believe it is usually tied to a misfire in at least one of my cylinders. I have a known internal oil leak. Lately that engine vibration hasn't been present. It popped up again just after the timing belt job. Other than that the car moves as fine as it did before the timing belt job and has been driving fine.
I'm not entirely sure if the knocking issues are related to my timing belt work. My main concern right now is my inability to crank the engine over by hand.
Please help, I had to call off of work on account of this. I can't make any money while my car is apart or in questionable condition. I am in an emergency situation. Thanks in Advance, -AJFresh
zac thompson Thank you zac. Later that night as I was going to sleep it occurred to me I may have had the car in gear. Checked the car, it was in gear. Took it out and was able to crank the engine over with no problem. Finished the job the next day thanks again!
I like the pov style repair. I'm heading in to auto tech school and it give you some perspective on what it would look like in an everyday repair. And its more enjoyable to watch, I feel more engaged.
Speaking from all of my first hand experience on this, but any time a Hog Ring / Friction Ring (hold sockets on air / cordless impacts and ratchets) wear out, the sockets fall off so easy it becomes EXTREMELY annoying, letting the socket do what they LOVE to do... go rolling across the shop floor to hide from you... never before have I seen or heard of a Hog Ring not letting go of sockets from being Worn Out.... I have seen brand new Hog rings not want to let go until they break in a bit... also, Pin Detent type socket retainers sometime get rusty or get lots of dirt, grease, dust, bits of rust powder, all that good stuff, stuck behind the pin that won't allow the pin to compress like it should.
There are better cameras than the gopro setup for things like this. I've been recording myself work for a year with great results... only drawback is that the music in the shop gets recorded, which I then have to cover with noise, so that TH-cam doesn't flag the audio.
The quality of eric the car guy just went another climb! Very nice, Sir. More GoPro stuff please. Real time is time consuming but we learn a lot from it. When your viewers watch a video of yours, it's cause we wanna learn, so don't worry about stuff taking time. Maybe if you didnt show that, some of us would give up too early, you know.
Nice tip, if you go to Amazon, you can get the whole Gates kit, belt, idlers, tensioner, water pump for a very reasonable price. On my 2000 it was $132 shipped at the time. That way you know everything is good. The worst part is the idler gear on the water pump. usually won't make it through two timing belts. And when it comes apart, it starts screaming and then blows ball bearings everywhere. On mine, the timing belt jumped three teeth and the engine wouldn't run. But luckily it was at idle and it didn't bend valves.
This would be a great use of Google Glass. The lens might not be as fisheye but you would have to wear a "special hat"
Can't believe it. Eric is getting rid of the car, does the last job, and finds out why the car was hesitating. But sometimes it was OK like you said. So the timing not being completely correct the car actually sounded like it ran sort of well.
I like your technique for the crank pulley remove. I never have the right puller for the job. Nice to know a work around.
thank God you found camera man brian
Disable the ignition/fuel pump before bumping the ignition to remove the crank pulley! Don't want it to run away on you and a lot of subarus will start with one little bump.
Eric, I actually think as for what you were trying to achieve in this video was good especially with the point of view camera. Yes like you said you had troubles with it no recording etc and yes people will disagree with me! I loved this POV actually makes you feel like I was there helping you lol also your voice over explaining it all well, good job! Keep it up!
dont use a drill bit on the tensioner, use a small nail. i used a drill bit once, when it was all installed on the vehicle, i pulled the drill bit but it snapped, but due to it being a long drill bit i did not notice, so part of the bit was still holding the tensioner and the timing belt was loose. drill bits are to brittle, use a nail, they bend before they brake.
absolutely right. drill bits are very hard and in turn brittle. I have had the same result and I quit using drill bits after one broke on me and I had to disassemble all the timing stuff again in order to removed the broken peice of drill bitm
unfortunately for me i did not notice and every thing seemed fine to start with , then the timing belt slipped a tooth or 2 and my timing was way out, on 1 cam, had no power between 2000-4500 rpm. fortunately it was an interference free engine. replaced the belt and water pump and all pulleys, all was fine. i had originally removed the tension-er to replace a bearing in a bracket it was mounted to.
My Opinion had same issue on a 2.4 Mitsubishi motor I have. Cost another 45 minutes to complete the job. Nails from now on!!!
Wow, you know it's a bad video when you get an error before the video even starts.
*attempts refreshing*
Eric, please don't use the head-mounted camera any longer. I seriously got vertigo and motion sick. Thank you, Eric.
In contrast I loved it.
I am glad that you show the patients that we mechanics have to have while working on cars. Sure we could zing stuff off, but that would be expensive in broken bolts and parts.
The GoPro adds a unique perspective, though I only use it as a novelty shot. The way video is compressed, you don't get hi def resolution unless the camera is held completely still and the subject isn't moving. But for tight spots and creative imagery, a few gopro shots add flavour, ha ha.
I like the fact u are trying new ideas. I think maybe you can use the GoPro in areas
that are really hard to reach or give a different angle on the same topic from the main camera. Or locate it in the engine bay when testing or driving a car with a difficult to locate noise or other problem. You mention the air wrench / torque setting or lack there of, I highly recommend the torque wrench on any bolt going into aluminum as I did a timing kit and water pump on my 05 outback and the tensioner
thread pulled and it cost me $100 bucks for a mobile guy to helicoil it. Keep up the good work.
Hey Eric, yeah crank bolt removal with this method can work flawlessly like yours did. Unfortunately, this method snapped my crank bolt just inside of the end of the crank on my '92 Legacy. Then in trying to drill to use an easy out, my dad , I got cockeyed and ended up being cheaper buying a junkyard engine & installing it than basically doing a rebuild because of having to replace the crank where we messed it up with the drill. Just FYI your use of the starter bump removal method was NOT what lead me to using it.
I am so glad cars don't rust in Texas. My 20 year old daily driver has lived its entire life in the DFW area and has no undercarriage rust. I've never broken a bolt on that car :)
Good point about not putting gasket sealer on the engine side. I had to do the water pump in my VT Commodore and it took me longer to clean all the crap off it then to take the damn pump off and after that, my back was killing me. Im pretty impressed by the gopro footage in dark places :)
My gear wrenches are a few years old ,I do not use them for every bolt but ,love them when I do use them.
I have a Vertigo.. the video motion makes me dizzy.. anyway that for the video :)
I really enjoy your videos. I like the idea of the gopro however I kind of get dizzy watching the video this way. Keep up the awesome work.
You should really keep doing videos like this! Best timing belt video ever for the win etcg
Chin up Eric! It's a mad POV video non the less, it really makes me feel like I am there doing it! Great job and keep it up!!
Not the worst, it's my favourite car to work on , lots of room with my hand compare Honda and it's a tricky timing .
anyone else think of jeremy clarkson. ..."ill get the hammer"
Nice video Eric. Really like this type of camera position, hope you will do more videos like this and will find out why cameras are cutting out
I know somebody who did not replace his drive belt. His son almost dyed.
It was raining and he was driving back from a party and was mildly drunk. He crashed head on into a tree, suffered serious injuries and his passenger dyed. Then he got sued by the parents of his dead friend.
After a lenghty investigation, it turned out his drive belt snapped mid corner and took out the powersteering with it, he just could not turn the steering wheel, just like he declared.
SO yeah, dont be a fucking cheapskate and replace all the belts and pulleys!
The other thing to remember on a Subaru, don't set the crank to TDC. You better look up the marks and set it to mid stroke. Because even if you are very careful, often one of the cam gears will spin around. And if the engine is at TDC, it can damage valves. It's worth noting because on most cars, you set TDC to do a timing belt. But not on a Subaru.
Hey man, I'd like to point out that when you're loosening the pulley on the front with the braker bar. You should unplug the park plugs, which is very easy and accessible on subarus. Just in case it would start.
very good vid Eric, but I have some comments
whenever I do a timing belt job, I always disconnect the battery, just for safety sake
you weren't planning on changing the tensioner and idler pulleys to start with?
my philosphy is to replace everything that touches the belt or tensions it, including the water pump, provided it is driven by the timing belt
lastly, I think that every mechanic has used the starter method to break the crank pulley/damper bolt loose, don't ever attempt this method on a Honda with the transmission on the right side of the vehicle. These engines are counter clockwise rotation units, doing the starter method will only tighten the bolt further, possibly snapping the head of the bolt off!, leaving you with a broken bolt in the end of the crank
Props to ya man, flat backing it really sucks. any plans for a 2 post in the future?
This wasn't so bad at all. A few cut outs, but you explained what happened. It's like taking a pee break at the movies. Someone just has to catch you up on whatever you missed.
I watched the video after a couple of glasses of wine and I should be honest - it made me a little bit sick )) But the vid is great and the point of view is also awesome thanks to the fish eye effect and the hat mount. Thank you, Eric, for another stunning video! Keep it going!
I love this guy. Such great information. And I feel like I'm talking to someone, because he always looks away from the camera like a shy guy! hahaha. Thanks Eric, you're the man!
Good video. I am trying Rustop on my new Grand Cherokee, see if that helps with rusted bolts. Last GC had bolts and nuts so rusted I couldn't ket a wrench to fit on them.
You get what you pay for Eric. My Craftsman Set of gear wrenches are my favorite tools that I have. In the 5 yrs I've owned them, I've had to have the 10mm rebuilt because I used it so much it started to slip. I've used non name brand wrenches before, and I know what you're talking about, they don't work so good.
I was going to buy the gearwrench set tomorrow but was staying away because I didnt likr their warranty and would rather have at least crafstman. Good to know they are not that great. Saved me a few bucks. Thank you
All I can say is that, beyond a great teaching video, you really made me feel better about my most recent purchase being an old Jeep with a so-much-very-simpler-engine to work on.
Now that I've seen this, I won't ever buy a Subaru. Can't imagine what these repairs would cost at the dealership.
the tool trucks sell a nifty little tool that works perfect for hose removal(if you can get to them). it's just a screw driver handle with a hook on the end. just stick it between the hose and the radiator or t-stat housing and go around the the entire circle . they come right off after that !!!!!!!
I think the videos you did earlier without the GoPro, just taking the time to set up the right camera angles, turned out better than this one.
I like to try new things. Sometimes it doesn't always work out. The idea is to try and make better videos. Thanks for your input.
you should fix the gopro camera on the bonnet facing the engine, that way we get a clear video without the annoyance of constantly moving. better yet, get a second camera fixed under the car to get all angles.
Whats funny is that my cheapo harbor freight gear wrenches work flawlessly and are made in Taiwan. Funny how that works sometimes lol.
sohc motors would be cake if it weren't for rust. dohc aren't as fun. I hate how you have to fight to get the belt on them. they have tensioners for a reason.
st200ol is right. i dont think heat would affect it. you need a high speed card for footage with fast moving things (liquid, camera shake, leaves etc). I use them and never had this problem. keep up the great videos!!
Never had a problem with the ratcheting mechanism on my Gear Wrenches, but I have the style where there's no switch to change directions, you actually just turn the wrench over. One side tightens, one side loosens, and still has the open end on the other end. Wonder if its that different mechanism that's causing issues.
Eric, I am always amazed how clean your workshop is. Is it your "showroom" workshop where you make videos, or your also make a living here? I am really amazed how clean it is. How do you maintain it?
Dual overhead cam Subaru engines don’t have a timing belt. They have a timing chain which does not need replaced on a maintenance schedule unless it breaks. And that doesn’t really happen.
Eric, your camera may be faulty, My gp2 records straight for almost 2 hours, it was beaten to death several times, falling off vehicles, bikes, me, etc, broken around 10 housings, and still works as good as new. Get it RMA'd.
This is one of the reasons I gave up on newer cars. You can't even see the engine in there. It takes a lot more work than it should to do something like a timing belt. It costs $1000 to have the timing belt on a PT Cruiser, and I don't believe that to be too much considering the ridiculous amount of work involved.
As far as Chinese tools, I would not use them for anything but a paperweight. Not only do they break, but they also damage perfectly good fasteners because they do not fit properly, and because they are made of really soft metal, and deform, also damaging the fasteners. They can also do a lot of damage to your hands when they slip or break. I use only name brand U.S. made tools, which, sadly, are getting harder and harder to find. Even Snap On is now having some of their tools made in Asia.
vulcan1753 This car isn't that new,it is from 1997.Aren't timing belt/chain hard to replace because it is behind the pulleys and all that? Aren't the serpentine/accessory/drive belts the easier ones?
That felt very much like "one to many drinks vision". Got used to it though.
Your going world wide! A shop where I buy car parts had your videos playing! Congrats!
you should try the flex head ratchet wrenchs is seem to always find places that the regular cant get to. also if you do not want to play for the gear wrench you get get the ones at lowes or northern tools which is basically the same thing as gearwrench.
I think the video was very nice although some footage was lost.A tip for those who are going to do a timing belt on a ford Zetec engine: Do not loosen the cam pulley as it spins freely on the camshaft and there are no marks. Briansmobile1 have a video for a Zatec engine.
When pulling apart my EJ257 the crank pulley was just a big pita as yours if not worse.. Was very rusted inside so I had to sand it and the crankshaft before assembling again :P
POV thingy is absolutly awesome !!!
I'd consider a Subie as my next car, but timing belts and head gaskets seem to be expensive problems.
Those engines are not that bad. Wait till you do an STi timing belt. Thats a whole new level of frustration.
Since you're junking the old accessory belts, why not use them to pull the crank pulley bolt? Put the belt on the alternator and the crank pulley, and fold the belt over itself on the passenger side of the pulley. 22mm on the crank pulley bolt and BAM that sucker should fly right off, no messing with cranking the motor.
The best way to to get the crank bolt out and re-tightend is to get a counter holder tool.
so you do not disconnecting the battery? I was surprised to see it hooked up all thru this in-depth repair.... Just wondering?
yes it would be wise to disconnect the battery, however to guys who do this work all the time it is not neccesary.Great video and adding an element of fun to the job at hand.
I have used the SK equivalent of the gear wrenches and so far i am a big fan real convenient.
Thanks Eric, i really enjoyed that, your video tutorials are allways excellent and your sense of humor is great :-))
Must have been a real pain to use that camera, an "Eric's eye view" :-))
Subaru timing belt changes always cost more due to the added complexity of the boxer engine.
i think what you need is something like an adjustable camera boom/jib... with an extra adjustable arm to get the under-car shots
can I ask why didn't you replace the timing belt tensioner? as those parts fail.
My thoughts too - it looks nasty
Wow, I'm really surprised that you didn't like the gear wrenches. I use them every day, frankly I abuse them every day and couldn't imagine doing my job without them. Is this your first time using ratcheting wrenches in general of just the first time with Gear Wrench brand?
I understand gopro is way more practical solution to shoot when you do this kind of job. I personnaly do some DIY on classic cars too. But I have to say, image is not that good here, with gopro. lack of zoom to see clearly what happens, fish eye effect... hmm And belive me, I know what using tools only with one hand means :-) keep up the good vids anyway. cheers, Fred
I can't stand those worm gear clamps (screw clamps) They never provide absolute circular sealing so sometimes two are required. As you mentioned the larger ones aren't as bad but they still suck. The wire ones are just as bad. Had those on an 88 Pontiac. Replaced with spring clamps.
I use to hate spring clamps because a lot of times getting a tool down to get them off is a pain. But they honestly do a much better job of circular sealing. Now I just use those screw clamps to just hold things down if Im out of cable ties like a mass of wires.
Also I break my crank bolts loose by wedging the breaker against the concrete on the ground. If it don't reach I just lower the car a bit. Yeah its a bit more work but stops it from slapping something important.
I danced a pulley of a 3800 engine once. I knew the whole engine was cast iron and wasn't any real danger of damage. Took me about an hour so yeah sometimes this can take a loooong time when trying to be gentle.
Oh and to anyone who cares torquing water pump bolts are usually only required when you have an odd pump shape. What I mean by that is I never torqued on the normal circular shaped water pumps but when I did one on my 3.5L LX5 engine and because it is an all aluminum engine I torqued it because the water pump looked like a wiener. It was also necessary to use RTV on both sides but only a very thin layer at the block side that was flattened out with a razor blade. Not sure if the engine was ever overheated so it's an extra precaution because aluminum tends to warp with heat and I didn't want to find out if it had warped by not using it. I used the quick dry "Right stuff" that way the pump pretty much sticks in place when you lay it down. But it is very very important not to over use the RTV.
eric the gopros have issues with over heating and when that happens it shuts down like it did in your video when i cools down it come back on.
As far as the Gear Wrench set goes, I bought a Husky brand ratcheting set and I love them. I too went with the Gear wrench brand first and was highly disappointed.
Always replace the idlers when you do the timing belt, cheap insurance... I had an idler grenade on me 3000 miles after replacing the timing belt on a 1992 2.2L Subaru.
Nice video.. good to see you doing a job with two hands like a real mechanic for once