I worked in a Honda dealer in the service department in the early to mid 90's. At that time those multi electrode spark plugs were becoming popular. I remember a customer coming in with his brand new civic. This was a 93 I believe. He complained of a rough idle and wanted it fixed under warranty. But what the technician found was the customer had replaced the spark plugs to those dual electrode plugs. All we did was put the factory plug back in sure enough the engine ran smooth as it should.
That's with most 'after market' stuff. The manufacturer doesn't put wrong parts in your car. Different (colored) spark plug wiring, other size tires, spoilers; it may look nice, but it usually doesn't enhance the ride. Unless you do things with your car that it wasn't really intended for. For the general owner; keep it standard.
Was / is a scam. On Dyno no improvement. A gimmick split fire also. ND had U groove plugs in 1970s did ignite lean mixture better in Japanese motors. NGK best I find. Beware of counterfeit NGK plugs.
E3 Spark Plugs must be a Gimmick then😂Champion has Aviation plugs with either 2 Massive ground straps & Massive Copper electrode or the more expensive Fine Wire 2 Strap & Fine elecrode. I don't remember if they're Platinum but definitely more expensive & longer lasting. Both types seem to run just fine✌🏼😎☯️
@@bdogjr7779 " aircraft" engine. Mercury outboards had surface gap plugs no ground straps. Two stroke outboards. Different application than automotive obviously. Not sure why you find that amusing? Dyno tests show NO gain from spilt fire E3 or any of those gimmics. Look up what F1 engines run . E3 ,split fire often lead to detonation pre-ignition damage.
As the video points out, the bigger the gap in the plug, the more voltage is needed to jump it... This means that leaving the spark plugs in too long can cause the electrical insulation in the coil to break down and cause the coil to fail. When the power to the 'primary coil' is interrupted the magnetic energy in the iron core collapses and is transferred to the 'secondary coil' and the voltage in the secondary coil will keep rising until it is relieved by the spark happening, if the gap is too large the voltage can reach extreme levels. The use of Iridium and platinum is to massively reduce the 'spark erosion' that causes gap wear, so this allows plug gap to stay in specification for a lot longer. Many coil failures are caused by the plug gap being allowed to get too large
"the magnetic energy in the iron core collapses ..." Well, correctly it would be "the magnetic field in the iron core collapses and its energy is transfered into the second coil" Just thought I should mention that. Have an excellent Sunday and a fabulous start into the new week!
I have had NGK iridium plugs in my 2002 Rav4 and have had zero problems over the last 7 years whatsoever! If you have a new car the NGK iridium are highly recommended as these spark plugs will last at least 15 ~ 20 years! When I removed the NGK plugs after 7 years the plugs were a little brown in colour but looked almost close to new!
You are 100% correct - new cars are not very DIY friendly - the modern car has become a complex piece of machinery. At 13:26 this is a glow plug. For those that don't know - Diesel cars do NOT have any spark plugs.
Modern cars are complex piece of machinery !? How ? Have you even looked at some of the more complex military vehicles? Car computers have little to do, so usually, the auto makers use 3rd or 4 th tier computers for their applications, never leading edge, that will be a waste of computer power, save them for other more demanding uses. Gradually, since 3 decades ago, engineers started assigning more tasks to the computer, such as alternator regulating, cruise control, radar collision, monitoring etc. How the military handle the complexity, they don't, not when you getting shot at. If there is a significant problem with a tank engine or airplane hydraulics, they crane the whole engine out and replace it with another one, called power pack. Or hydraulic pump, The whole power pack take just an hour to change. Then the old one get sent to the rear with the $million dollar equipment and technician to fix.
Thanks- in spite of being a mechanical engineer with 60 years of building engines; I learned a few things from your video. Note that pre-WW 2 piston aircraft engines used multiple spark plug grounds for their magneto-fired engines apparently for more reliability, so this is not quite a new innovation. Racers also found it's also close to impossible to re-gap such plugs without damaging or breaking the center electrode.
Aircraft style spark plugs have totally different equipment to maintain them. The feeler gauges are sets of thin wires on little keychains, put between the center electrode and the side ground strap to probe the distance. Adjusting the gap requries a little jig with a thumbscrew that pushes the ground electrode in.
Has anyone noticed that modern equipment have become less simpler but more complex. There are creating an ecosystem where you keep needing their services and keep paying them rather than doing it yourself. The concept is profit driven. Once you make a simple machine very complex the more money you can make from sales and repairs.
That's a very cynical take on the situation. The main thing driving complexity is government regulations. Politicians have absolutely no idea how things are done when developing a machine as complex as a car, so they blithely make requirements and mandates which drives (no pun intended) this complexity. The fact that it's bad for the consumer is left as a problem for later politicians.
Actually in the case of engines, it is about meeting fuel economy numbers due to both government mandates, and consumer demand, for those majorities of customers who only understand a bigger number without the detractions to get there, or it's save money now, pay later since new car buyers tend to be better off financially and can just sell or trade in the vehicle before they have to deal with more expensive repairs.
@@hagerty1952 ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,knuckleheads,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,its all about getting clean air ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, exhaust emissions,,,,,,,lowered..........to safe levels........lol............
Alert the media. /s The reasons for complexity have nothing to do with profit. It's a necessity as we increase efficiency, meet regulations, and is also consumer driven. No one would buy a car that required service as ours did sixty years ago.
@@hagerty1952 you forget that companies lobby government and are responsible for the regulations. Companies create this regulatory bodies with government and determine how does business and at what level and this keeps them at the top of the food chain. Government don't make regulations big companies do.
Accurate and awesome tutorial significantly covering all areas on spark plug subject. Thanks a lot for the easy, understandable professional coaching ❤
a friend and coworker of mine was a real car guy and would drag race his street 95 camaro. one of the things he did for a bit of a boost was to index the plugs with shim washers to have the electrode pointed right at the intake valve. he also reversed flowed the heads and altered the chip for the throttle body and the thing was really fast and quick.
@@BlueLinkCams-u8s Shades of my youth. 10,000 miles max. I have trouble believing a 13,000 mile replacement necessary with today's unleaded gas and electronic ignition. They don't care what the vehicle model is. I have over 200K on my original iridium AC plugs. Still good as gold.
The information about Hot and Cold plugs were good... I do find that colder plugs in a hotter plug specified engine such as those that have fuel/air mixtures on the leaner side such as Chrysler Lean Burn tuning, seem to give a smoother running engine and don't foul so long as you don't go too much colder. Ford also has a new sparkplug in the later Ecoboost engines that have a copper crush washer and when tightened to the specified torque, they will all be properly indexed the same way due to the threads in the cylinder head and threads on the plugs being in certain alignments causing the plug to always align in a specified manner to encourage a more complete burn.
Excellent explanation of the topic, clear narration and superb graphics to illustrate the processes, thank you 🙏 subscribed because it made me want to listen and watch 👌😊👍
Also it is very important to properly torque spark plugs 45 years as a tech their are a lot of cars that it's not easy to get the plugs out. Also be careful buying plugs online their are a lot of counterfeit parts sold
@@parkerbohnn If you mean what I think you mean, you won't be able to get them out if you do that. If your engine is losing compression, it means you have to either do a valve job or a ring job. Maybe both.
In many published dynamometer runs since the early 2000’s both car and bike magazines have shown that multiple ground-electrode plugs cause engines to lose 2-3 h.p. at the medium to high rev ranges. Additionally, the 60K to 80K volt ignition coils on modern engines allow the plugs to maintain efficiency to at least 60K miles and in some cases 100K miles.
I own a 2004 Ram Hemi. It has 310,000 miles. Original spark plugs, coils, a/c components. Original ball joints. All engine and trans, rear axle, and diff. Are all original. I changed front shafts once.
The Stock spark plug that came with the vehicle is way better than those aftermarket spark plug that failed prematurely. Best bang for the buck would be the original parts.
Agreed! If your car was sold with copper spark plugs when it was brand new, then that means the engine was designed with copper spark plugs in mind; in that case it is best to stay with copper spark plugs, and the more expensive, newer aftermarket plugs will not work as well.
Not always. Sometimes manufacturers make mistakes. I have a c4 Corvette with the lt1 engine. Factory spark plugs were garbage. They were intended to last 50k miles; however, the platinum pucks are known to just fall right off. I changed the factory plugs with 40k miles on them and the majority of those pucks were gone, leaving a plug gap 0.015" wider than those with the puck still present, and way out of factory spec. The plugs were also hotter plugs than necessary presumably for emissions. I moved to a different plug 1 step colder than factory with pucks that won't just fall off at random, and it ran so much better.
@@julshg Even using a good OEM brand of spark plug (and expensive iridium), my 2000 Jaguar XK8 ran worse with those plugs; I ended up going back to the kind of plugs that its ignition system was designed with, then it ran great again. Moral: sometimes the best spark plugs are the kind the engine was designed with.
I am going to replace the plugs in my 1997 Toyota Avalon. The owners manual says to only use dual electrode plugs. Since I had already bought single electrode plugs, I was unhappy. But now I see that the extra electrode is only to extend the life of the plug. I'm now planning on using the single electrode NGK plugs. Thanks for the knowledge.
Running latest NGK Ruthenium HX and new NGK coil on plugs on my Nissan VQ35DE V6 3.5 - so far performance is impressive - in my opinion engine runs like new - new plugs and coil on plugs REFRESH the ignition system substantially - known for 'high ignitability' (HI), Ruthenium is NGK's latest yet have been out for a few years - most people have never heard of them - like me!!! Really good for older engines that need all the help they can get. NGK fan because of NGK long life and performance - real world experience over many years.
My father-in-law had a boat with spark plugs that never needed changing. They were on a Chrysler engine. The center electrode was a raised dot about 1/4 inch in diameter and about 1/8 inch tall. The other electrode was a ring about 1/ 8 wide and tall. Looking at the end, it looked like a target, with the center electrode being the bullseye. You couldn't gap them and didn't need to. To clean them, he would just buff the end with a piece of leather. One of the big spark plug manufacturers must have bought the patent and locked it away somewhere.
I like iridium spark plugs ,they can run up to 100,000 before you might have to replace them.they are already pre-gapped,so you don’t need to gap them.
A bit behind the times now. I have Ruthenium plugs in my car but these weren't mentioned. They have been around for several years now but are rarely mentioned. One of the claims for them is even longer life than Iridium.
Fifty years ago installing a extra high voltage spark coil was a pretty common modification. It was also a very simple mod as it was just a drop in replacement unless your spark wires were just bad. It didn't really do much difference in most cases but it could help people pump a bit more power out of their engines as they used sparkplugs with a wider gap. Never bothered to do it myself as I wasn't interested. But it was just one of those things they tried to sell you.
Multi-electode plugs were a thing in the early teens, (20th century), until everyone realized that more fire for the firing surface gave better results than more surfaces for the fire.
Or even better, to have neither, to just have same amount of fire so you aren't putting a strain on the ignition coils. Larger gap needs higher voltage. Granted some coils and plugs are easier to get to, and less expensive than others.
I habe been using Bosch multi electrode spark plugs in all my Hondas with smooth performance for longer that 60K miles for spark plug set, compared to the 600K miles for the original Denso plugs. A 93 SI, a 98 VTI and a 97 CRV. I also used Champion surface gap electrode, basicalli designed for marine overboard engines. For these plugs you need a high energy capacitive discharge ignition. This was on a heavy modified 1962 VW beetle. Never had to change or clean plugs. They lasted for about 200K miles, untill I sold the beetle. Now I have a 3,5 liter V6 mitsubishi. I use the recomended iridium spark plugs, just because they are changed at every 60K miles service, and you need to remove the INTAKE MANIFOLD to access the plugs...
beautiful video; thank you. I once had a 2005 Durango with 5.7 hemi; took it to dealership to service the A/C. they found out that I had 100k kilometers and still running the original spark plugs. there was no problem at all. so changing spark plugs every 20,000 miles? not so sure..
I had a motorcycle that used what was called a surface gap plug. It looked very much like they had taken a conventional spark plug and cut off the protruding electrode. It was in a two stroke motorcycle that had some serious problems with spark plug fouling. It really did not help in any way, the primitive (1972) electronic ignition was not as good as a similar era conventional ignition
Absolutely extremely helpful. Great visual training aids. Forwarded to over 57 people. Thank you for your efforts, time and professional development of this highly informative training / learning tool. 😎👍🏻🔥⛽️💯🏎️🙏🏻✝️🇺🇸🙏🏻✝️🇺🇸
I've only seen multi-anode sparkplugs used in aircraft engines, and they run dual sparkplugs & magnetos. For cars & motorcycles, I've had good luck with ND Hot-U and iridium split anode sparkplugs .. get slightly better fuel economy, engine feels a bit peppier and cold starts seem quicker
I bought a used car with 226k miles on it. Needed new plugs, which was reasonable to replace... I discovered that those were factory originals from 2001, and had never been changed, because it literally just kept running fine, until one or two plugs fouled. Well, I splurged for "fancy" NGK Laser Platinum plugs with multiple spark gaps, and they only made it 2 years, 26k miles before all 6 were toast. Now I have basic single spark gap Iridium plugs that cost 3x less than NGK, and performance seems improved.
Very good session I always wonder how this item works I don't absorb ever thing but I learnt some thing thank u and I will review it again and make some notes so I can revise it accasionally
Years ago the spark plugs used in a Mercury snowmobiles with German Kolher engines used the sides of the plug as a ground to the electrode. The gap was always perfect and all you did was brush the plug clean.For some reason they stopped making these plugs,Sounds like they were too good
First of all, thanks for the tips. How do you know which is OEM plug or what not ? Because there many after market parts out there , and to the untrained eyes,one could be lied to. So how do you identify which is the genuine one and which is the after market ? Thanks
Once upon a time, pre mandated unleaded fuel, only Amaco premium gas was lead free with an octane rating of over 100. With leaded gas, 10,000 miles was about the limit before needing replacement...along with the points and setting of point "dwell" and ignition timing. Spark plugs are cheaper now than they ever have been, not even counting inflation. Iridium plugs are da bomb. I've got over 200K on a set and they are just fine. Check once in a while, never a reason to replace, especially since a few require some effort to R & R.
It all depends on the shape of your combustion chamber including the type of piston. Absolutely do not never use E-V spark plugs. And not all brands work the same on certain engines.
The american factory "Pulstar" made amazing brand spark plugs ! In particular on 2 stroke engines and carb or first gen of injection system on cars or motorcycles... There's a capacitor include inside the spark plug.
champion plugs use an air gap as capacitance For some reason my old Jaguar straight six only liked champion plugs. I favored a Japanese brand , but there was no arguing with results.
I find that E3 spark plugs are the best in my opinion. I have numerous muscle cars and these are the only plugs I use. I even put these in my motorcycles, ATV's and my zero-turn mower.
There's one type of plug you forgot to talk about... the RUTHINIUM plug said to last longer than an iridium plug. I have used these plugs in 2 of my cars and they really work. Better than an iridium? Idk but I like the fuel mileage gain when I switched to them and the response in the throttle seemed a lil better as well
One very expensive repair is when an engine invests water and hydro-locks, bending connection rods and ruining the motor. Adding a pressure-release valve would be difficult to retrofit, and probably require a redesign of the cylinder head, but what if the spark-plug was designed to be this pressure release valve? Then you could retro-fit any gas-engine. Boat motors are the obvious application, but I feel the military would be very interested in accelerating the recovery time of a submerged vehicle. Off-road vehicles, and motorcycles would benefit. As this video mentions, replacing the spark plugs is one of the last things a casual owner can replace. I would think the insulator would provide a route to making this idea work.
A solution looking for a problem. Far easier to just not let water get in the engine and if it gets flooded or something, pull the plugs before trying to start it.
This video was not written by an engineer. Most of the terminology was wrong, the different metals are only chosen because of their melting point, hardness and heat transferring properties. Electric conductivity has nothing to do with it. Infact some parasitic resistance is desired because it reduces the current trough the ark and this results in a longer, more stable spark, in less radio interference and less strain on the coil pack and it's electronics. Resistor spark plugs are very common these days, but the parasitic resistance can also be in the cables or in the plug connector. 5 Kohms is the most common value.
some Hemi engines have even 3 or 4 plugs per cylinder not to mention in some fords having 3/cylinder. (note not all hemi's are/were made by Mopar. most Mercedes gas engines are hemispherical too)
"Cold" or "hot" is extremely important to the lifespan and ignition quality (how the engine runs). I have an old Evinrude outboard (1970) originally built for leaded fuel. Now I run unleaded in my mix (50:1). The original spark plugs or equivalent run too cold and end up with black residue pretty quickly. I changed for a "hotter" spark plug and the problem is gone.
I run stock plugs on my GTI with 200 hp more than stock. Not even 1 step colder. I change them every 15,000 miles ans ive had no issues. With hybrid turbos at 500+ bhp most guys run recessed tip plugs where the ground strap is flat and protrudes diagonally up from the body of the plug. They are like $40 each last i checked lol.
Awesome TEP《☆》👍🏾🍔🤳I'm looking for the best Plugs to give long Life & Best Performance in my 5.7L HEMI. I bought the 2014 Charger Pursuit with 117k miles on it. No maintenance records were provided. I'll pull one of the Spark plugs out & see What's in it. I've heard the Bosh Double Iridium are the best HEMI plugs but I'm thinking Double Platinum should be fine for a higher mileage car. What do You suggest for my 5.7L HEMI??✌🏼😎☯️
I worked in a Honda dealer in the service department in the early to mid 90's. At that time those multi electrode spark plugs were becoming popular. I remember a customer coming in with his brand new civic. This was a 93 I believe. He complained of a rough idle and wanted it fixed under warranty. But what the technician found was the customer had replaced the spark plugs to those dual electrode plugs. All we did was put the factory plug back in sure enough the engine ran smooth as it should.
That's with most 'after market' stuff. The manufacturer doesn't put wrong parts in your car. Different (colored) spark plug wiring, other size tires, spoilers; it may look nice, but it usually doesn't enhance the ride. Unless you do things with your car that it wasn't really intended for. For the general owner; keep it standard.
Was / is a scam.
On Dyno no improvement.
A gimmick split fire also.
ND had U groove plugs in 1970s did ignite lean mixture better in Japanese motors.
NGK best I find.
Beware of counterfeit NGK plugs.
E3 Spark Plugs must be a Gimmick then😂Champion has Aviation plugs with either 2 Massive ground straps & Massive Copper electrode or the more expensive Fine Wire 2 Strap & Fine elecrode. I don't remember if they're Platinum but definitely more expensive & longer lasting. Both types seem to run just fine✌🏼😎☯️
@@bdogjr7779 yes .. gimmick
@@bdogjr7779 " aircraft" engine.
Mercury outboards had surface gap plugs no ground straps.
Two stroke outboards.
Different application than automotive obviously.
Not sure why you find that amusing?
Dyno tests show NO gain from spilt fire E3 or any of those gimmics.
Look up what F1 engines run .
E3 ,split fire often lead to detonation pre-ignition damage.
As the video points out, the bigger the gap in the plug, the more voltage is needed to jump it... This means that leaving the spark plugs in too long can cause the electrical insulation in the coil to break down and cause the coil to fail. When the power to the 'primary coil' is interrupted the magnetic energy in the iron core collapses and is transferred to the 'secondary coil' and the voltage in the secondary coil will keep rising until it is relieved by the spark happening, if the gap is too large the voltage can reach extreme levels. The use of Iridium and platinum is to massively reduce the 'spark erosion' that causes gap wear, so this allows plug gap to stay in specification for a lot longer. Many coil failures are caused by the plug gap being allowed to get too large
Sounds feasible.
Exactly... Burns coils out .
Thanks for the explanation.
"the magnetic energy in the iron core collapses ..."
Well, correctly it would be "the magnetic field in the iron core collapses and its energy is transfered into the second coil"
Just thought I should mention that.
Have an excellent Sunday and a fabulous start into the new week!
@@NewStarConstellation Pedant alert..... please add to the discussion when posting, don't be so petty... By the way did you actually read my post ?
I have had NGK iridium plugs in my 2002 Rav4 and have had zero problems over the last 7 years whatsoever! If you have a new car the NGK iridium are highly recommended as these spark plugs will last at least 15 ~ 20 years!
When I removed the NGK plugs after 7 years the plugs were a little brown in colour but looked almost close to new!
You are 100% correct - new cars are not very DIY friendly - the modern car has become a complex piece of machinery. At 13:26 this is a glow plug. For those that don't know - Diesel cars do NOT have any spark plugs.
DEI hired Engineers = near impossible to repair designs
17:34 another diesel
Thats gdi engine
@@Random-rt5ec This is true. Guess who "engineered the Boeing MCAS system? Yep. DE!hires.
Modern cars are complex piece of machinery !? How ? Have you even looked at some of the more complex military vehicles? Car computers have little to do, so usually, the auto makers use 3rd or 4 th tier computers for their applications, never leading edge, that will be a waste of computer power, save them for other more demanding uses. Gradually, since 3 decades ago, engineers started assigning more tasks to the computer, such as alternator regulating, cruise control, radar collision, monitoring etc. How the military handle the complexity, they don't, not when you getting shot at. If there is a significant problem with a tank engine or airplane hydraulics, they crane the whole engine out and replace it with another one, called power pack. Or hydraulic pump, The whole power pack take just an hour to change. Then the old one get sent to the rear with the $million dollar equipment and technician to fix.
Thanks- in spite of being a mechanical engineer with 60 years of building engines; I learned a few things from your video. Note that pre-WW 2 piston aircraft engines used multiple spark plug grounds for their magneto-fired engines apparently for more reliability, so this is not quite a new innovation. Racers also found it's also close to impossible to re-gap such plugs without damaging or breaking the center electrode.
Aircraft style spark plugs have totally different equipment to maintain them. The feeler gauges are sets of thin wires on little keychains, put between the center electrode and the side ground strap to probe the distance. Adjusting the gap requries a little jig with a thumbscrew that pushes the ground electrode in.
that's why you should use a lever gapper and not the disc style, that way you dont touch the center
Absolutely the best spark plug video ever. Perfection! This video should be the model for all vehicle components. Do it!
Has anyone noticed that modern equipment have become less simpler but more complex. There are creating an ecosystem where you keep needing their services and keep paying them rather than doing it yourself. The concept is profit driven. Once you make a simple machine very complex the more money you can make from sales and repairs.
That's a very cynical take on the situation. The main thing driving complexity is government regulations. Politicians have absolutely no idea how things are done when developing a machine as complex as a car, so they blithely make requirements and mandates which drives (no pun intended) this complexity. The fact that it's bad for the consumer is left as a problem for later politicians.
Actually in the case of engines, it is about meeting fuel economy numbers due to both government mandates, and consumer demand, for those majorities of customers who only understand a bigger number without the detractions to get there, or it's save money now, pay later since new car buyers tend to be better off financially and can just sell or trade in the vehicle before they have to deal with more expensive repairs.
@@hagerty1952 ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,knuckleheads,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,its all about getting clean air ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, exhaust emissions,,,,,,,lowered..........to safe levels........lol............
Alert the media. /s
The reasons for complexity have nothing to do with profit. It's a necessity as we increase efficiency, meet regulations, and is also consumer driven. No one would buy a car that required service as ours did sixty years ago.
@@hagerty1952 you forget that companies lobby government and are responsible for the regulations. Companies create this regulatory bodies with government and determine how does business and at what level and this keeps them at the top of the food chain. Government don't make regulations big companies do.
Accurate and awesome tutorial significantly covering all areas on spark plug subject. Thanks a lot for the easy, understandable professional coaching ❤
Very comprehensive discussion. Excellent
a friend and coworker of mine was a real car guy and would drag race his street 95 camaro. one of the things he did for a bit of a boost was to index the plugs with shim washers to have the electrode pointed right at the intake valve. he also reversed flowed the heads and altered the chip for the throttle body and the thing was really fast and quick.
if you are changing your plugs at 20k then you are wasting a lot of money. Clean regap and run again. I get about 60k out of mine.
Nah
Not with a F-150 eco boost truck.. you don’t change them janks every 13k you ain’t going nowhere 😂
150,000 from mine
@@BlueLinkCams-u8sthey call them ecobusts
@@BlueLinkCams-u8s Shades of my youth. 10,000 miles max. I have trouble believing a 13,000 mile replacement necessary with today's unleaded gas and electronic ignition. They don't care what the vehicle model is. I have over 200K on my original iridium AC plugs. Still good as gold.
The information about Hot and Cold plugs were good... I do find that colder plugs in a hotter plug specified engine such as those that have fuel/air mixtures on the leaner side such as Chrysler Lean Burn tuning, seem to give a smoother running engine and don't foul so long as you don't go too much colder. Ford also has a new sparkplug in the later Ecoboost engines that have a copper crush washer and when tightened to the specified torque, they will all be properly indexed the same way due to the threads in the cylinder head and threads on the plugs being in certain alignments causing the plug to always align in a specified manner to encourage a more complete burn.
Excellent explanation of the topic, clear narration and superb graphics to illustrate the processes, thank you 🙏 subscribed because it made me want to listen and watch 👌😊👍
Amazing video on Spark Plug 🖤
Also it is very important to properly torque spark plugs 45 years as a tech their are a lot of cars that it's not easy to get the plugs out. Also be careful buying plugs online their are a lot of counterfeit parts sold
I have never torqued my plugs, but I do know that you NEVER EVER use an impact wrench to install them. EVER.
If a car is losing compression yiou have to reef the shit right out of them when installing them.
@@parkerbohnn If you mean what I think you mean, you won't be able to get them out if you do that. If your engine is losing compression, it means you have to either do a valve job or a ring job. Maybe both.
Ngk is the most replicated
@@dmo848 NGK is a brand, not a type.
In many published dynamometer runs since the early 2000’s both car and bike magazines have shown that multiple ground-electrode plugs cause engines to lose 2-3 h.p. at the medium to high rev ranges. Additionally, the 60K to 80K volt ignition coils on modern engines allow the plugs to maintain efficiency to at least 60K miles and in some cases 100K miles.
@@danielgaskell5490 true..
It's been debunked long ago.
I own a 2004 Ram Hemi.
It has 310,000 miles.
Original spark plugs, coils, a/c components.
Original ball joints.
All engine and trans, rear axle, and diff. Are all original.
I changed front shafts once.
I remember splitfire spark plugs.
@rdallas81 so what are you trying to say?
Answers so many questions. Thank You...!!!
The Stock spark plug that came with the vehicle is way better than those aftermarket spark plug that failed prematurely. Best bang for the buck would be the original parts.
True, I usually gap the old one's if they works good..
Agreed! If your car was sold with copper spark plugs when it was brand new, then that means the engine was designed with copper spark plugs in mind; in that case it is best to stay with copper spark plugs, and the more expensive, newer aftermarket plugs will not work as well.
Not always. Sometimes manufacturers make mistakes. I have a c4 Corvette with the lt1 engine. Factory spark plugs were garbage. They were intended to last 50k miles; however, the platinum pucks are known to just fall right off. I changed the factory plugs with 40k miles on them and the majority of those pucks were gone, leaving a plug gap 0.015" wider than those with the puck still present, and way out of factory spec. The plugs were also hotter plugs than necessary presumably for emissions. I moved to a different plug 1 step colder than factory with pucks that won't just fall off at random, and it ran so much better.
as long as you buy OEM quality, like NGK and Bosch who actually manufacture for everyone, you're good.
garbage in, garbage out as they say
@@julshg Even using a good OEM brand of spark plug (and expensive iridium), my 2000 Jaguar XK8 ran worse with those plugs; I ended up going back to the kind of plugs that its ignition system was designed with, then it ran great again. Moral: sometimes the best spark plugs are the kind the engine was designed with.
I am going to replace the plugs in my 1997 Toyota Avalon. The owners manual says to only use dual electrode plugs. Since I had already bought single electrode plugs, I was unhappy. But now I see that the extra electrode is only to extend the life of the plug. I'm now planning on using the single electrode NGK plugs. Thanks for the knowledge.
A good teacher is like a candle it consumes itself to light the way for others.
Running latest NGK Ruthenium HX and new NGK coil on plugs on my Nissan VQ35DE V6 3.5 - so far performance is impressive - in my opinion engine runs like new - new plugs and coil on plugs REFRESH the ignition system substantially - known for 'high ignitability' (HI), Ruthenium is NGK's latest yet have been out for a few years - most people have never heard of them - like me!!! Really good for older engines that need all the help they can get. NGK fan because of NGK long life and performance - real world experience over many years.
My father-in-law had a boat with spark plugs that never needed changing. They were on a Chrysler engine. The center electrode was a raised dot about 1/4 inch in diameter and about 1/8 inch tall. The other electrode was a ring about 1/ 8 wide and tall. Looking at the end, it looked like a target, with the center electrode being the bullseye. You couldn't gap them and didn't need to. To clean them, he would just buff the end with a piece of leather. One of the big spark plug manufacturers must have bought the patent and locked it away somewhere.
I like iridium spark plugs ,they can run up to 100,000 before you might have to replace them.they are already pre-gapped,so you don’t need to gap them.
A bit behind the times now. I have Ruthenium plugs in my car but these weren't mentioned. They have been around for several years now but are rarely mentioned. One of the claims for them is even longer life than Iridium.
This was actually well made :)
It's completely AI generated.
Great video, but please let us know also about motorcycle specific things.
Fifty years ago installing a extra high voltage spark coil was a pretty common modification. It was also a very simple mod as it was just a drop in replacement unless your spark wires were just bad. It didn't really do much difference in most cases but it could help people pump a bit more power out of their engines as they used sparkplugs with a wider gap. Never bothered to do it myself as I wasn't interested. But it was just one of those things they tried to sell you.
Good bit if knowledge.... Was wondering why the 2 blunts by the 1974 pic😏🔥🔥
Glad u put the disclaimer 😂😂😂was looking for expert advice…none here…lol😂🎉🎉🎉
This is a great video. There is information that I never knew. Thank you for sharing.
Thank you for this fantastic video!keep going! A strong thumbs up from Dingfeng Precious Metals Recycling!
Multi-electode plugs were a thing in the early teens, (20th century), until everyone realized that more fire for the firing surface gave better results than more surfaces for the fire.
Or even better, to have neither, to just have same amount of fire so you aren't putting a strain on the ignition coils. Larger gap needs higher voltage. Granted some coils and plugs are easier to get to, and less expensive than others.
well put..
Thank you. A real lesson about spark plug and mithbuster also.
Very understanding video God bless you 😊
Well done, now I'll kn9w why the gaps and better select my future plugs😊
Excellent explenatoin and video 👌
Explanation
My question was answered at the very end but glad I watched the whole thing!
Very useful information. Well done 🎉🎉
I habe been using Bosch multi electrode spark plugs in all my Hondas with smooth performance for longer that 60K miles for spark plug set, compared to the 600K miles for the original Denso plugs. A 93 SI, a 98 VTI and a 97 CRV. I also used Champion surface gap electrode, basicalli designed for marine overboard engines. For these plugs you need a high energy capacitive discharge ignition. This was on a heavy modified 1962 VW beetle. Never had to change or clean plugs. They lasted for about 200K miles, untill I sold the beetle. Now I have a 3,5 liter V6 mitsubishi. I use the recomended iridium spark plugs, just because they are changed at every 60K miles service, and you need to remove the INTAKE MANIFOLD to access the plugs...
beautiful video; thank you. I once had a 2005 Durango with 5.7 hemi; took it to dealership to service the A/C. they found out that I had 100k kilometers and still running the original spark plugs. there was no problem at all. so changing spark plugs every 20,000 miles? not so sure..
I had a motorcycle that used what was called a surface gap plug. It looked very much like they had taken a conventional spark plug and cut off the protruding electrode. It was in a two stroke motorcycle that had some serious problems with spark plug fouling. It really did not help in any way, the primitive (1972) electronic ignition was not as good as a similar era conventional ignition
Mercury outboards had surface gap plugs.
1:16 I think that's part making me laugh😅.
😂same.
Amazing video 😍
Absolutely extremely helpful. Great visual training aids. Forwarded to over 57 people. Thank you for your efforts, time and professional development of this highly informative training / learning tool. 😎👍🏻🔥⛽️💯🏎️🙏🏻✝️🇺🇸🙏🏻✝️🇺🇸
I've only seen multi-anode sparkplugs used in aircraft engines, and they run dual sparkplugs & magnetos.
For cars & motorcycles, I've had good luck with ND Hot-U and iridium split anode sparkplugs .. get slightly better fuel economy, engine feels a bit peppier and cold starts seem quicker
I bought a used car with 226k miles on it. Needed new plugs, which was reasonable to replace... I discovered that those were factory originals from 2001, and had never been changed, because it literally just kept running fine, until one or two plugs fouled. Well, I splurged for "fancy" NGK Laser Platinum plugs with multiple spark gaps, and they only made it 2 years, 26k miles before all 6 were toast. Now I have basic single spark gap Iridium plugs that cost 3x less than NGK, and performance seems improved.
What were the identification numbers on the vaurous spark plug models?
@gregorymalchuk272 Originals were Bosch R6 Platinum (single gap). Replaced them with NGK BKR6EQUP Laser Platinum (4 ground electrodes). And now I'm running AutoLite XP5224 Iridium (single gap)
Very good session I always wonder how this item works I don't absorb ever thing but I learnt some thing thank u and I will review it again and make some notes so I can revise it accasionally
Surface discharge for the win ..... Well have had rotary bikes, so that's where the love comes from 😎
05 crv. Original iridium plugs. Pulled@150000, neverseized threads & reinstalled; still running well@284000; gas mileage, power same as always😁
Ed c
Very helpful presentation! Great narration and excellent visuals!
Very educational, than you, watched from Old Harbour Jamaica.
Excellent video!
THANK Y BUT THE HONEST AND TRUE FOR THE ORIGINAL SPARE PARTS IN THE 80 BY MEAD IN JAPAN THAT WE MISS
Retire auto and motorcycle mechanic here. If you want me to guarantee my work, I'm not going to clean & gap used plugs. Simple as that.
Very helpful and educational. God bless you. I love this
Years ago the spark plugs used in a Mercury snowmobiles with German Kolher engines used the sides of the plug as a ground to the electrode. The gap was always perfect and all you did was brush the plug clean.For some reason they stopped making these plugs,Sounds like they were too good
First of all, thanks for the tips. How do you know which is OEM plug or what not ? Because there many after market parts out there , and to the untrained eyes,one could be lied to. So how do you identify which is the genuine one and which is the after market ? Thanks
I learned a lot in just this one video 💯
Once upon a time, pre mandated unleaded fuel, only Amaco premium gas was lead free with an octane rating of over 100. With leaded gas, 10,000 miles was about the limit before needing replacement...along with the points and setting of point "dwell" and ignition timing.
Spark plugs are cheaper now than they ever have been, not even counting inflation. Iridium plugs are da bomb. I've got over 200K on a set and they are just fine. Check once in a while, never a reason to replace, especially since a few require some effort to R & R.
At 10:20 , what’s with the blunts 😂
At 10:14, but yeah, lol
Very well made video ✅ thanks !
With courage you will dare to take risks, have the strength to be compassionate, and the wisdom to be humble. Courage is the foundation of integrity.
Very informative video.Thanks!!
It all depends on the shape of your combustion chamber including the type of piston. Absolutely do not never use
E-V spark plugs. And not all brands work the same on certain engines.
Awesome coverage of information!
Great information, thanks ❤
I ALSO recommend Engineer type also look at Torquemaster S plugs. AS long as you put 60k volts to it , nothing else pulls like it.
The american factory "Pulstar" made amazing brand spark plugs ! In particular on 2 stroke engines and carb or first gen of injection system on cars or motorcycles... There's a capacitor include inside the spark plug.
champion plugs use an air gap as capacitance For some reason my old Jaguar straight six only liked champion plugs. I favored a Japanese brand , but there was no arguing with results.
A finest video on all spark plugs
Congratulations, excellent work mate, thank you so much!
Maybe you should explain NGK Iridium racing spark plug, not anyone of these above... ;-)
I find that E3 spark plugs are the best in my opinion. I have numerous muscle cars and these are the only plugs I use. I even put these in my motorcycles, ATV's and my zero-turn mower.
In the older days on the 1980's they were called splitfire spark plugs.
What is ruthenium spark plug ? Better than iridium?
There's one type of plug you forgot to talk about... the RUTHINIUM plug said to last longer than an iridium plug. I have used these plugs in 2 of my cars and they really work. Better than an iridium? Idk but I like the fuel mileage gain when I switched to them and the response in the throttle seemed a lil better as well
Was quite informative and interesting--Thanks.
I drove a 1988 Nissan pintara 4 cylinder which had 2 spark plugs per cylinder. Advantages/disadvantages could be mentioned.
Very informative ,thanks a lot.
Great video
Entre para ver wue bujias eran mejor y termine tomando una clase de historia, que buen video.
The
Iridium plugs I pulled from my Highlander after 110K miles looked like new.
Excellent explanation thanks
One very expensive repair is when an engine invests water and hydro-locks, bending connection rods and ruining the motor. Adding a pressure-release valve would be difficult to retrofit, and probably require a redesign of the cylinder head, but what if the spark-plug was designed to be this pressure release valve? Then you could retro-fit any gas-engine. Boat motors are the obvious application, but I feel the military would be very interested in accelerating the recovery time of a submerged vehicle. Off-road vehicles, and motorcycles would benefit. As this video mentions, replacing the spark plugs is one of the last things a casual owner can replace. I would think the insulator would provide a route to making this idea work.
A solution looking for a problem. Far easier to just not let water get in the engine and if it gets flooded or something, pull the plugs before trying to start it.
This video was not written by an engineer. Most of the terminology was wrong, the different metals are only chosen because of their melting point, hardness and heat transferring properties. Electric conductivity has nothing to do with it. Infact some parasitic resistance is desired because it reduces the current trough the ark and this results in a longer, more stable spark, in less radio interference and less strain on the coil pack and it's electronics. Resistor spark plugs are very common these days, but the parasitic resistance can also be in the cables or in the plug connector. 5 Kohms is the most common value.
some Hemi engines have even 3 or 4 plugs per cylinder not to mention in some fords having 3/cylinder.
(note not all hemi's are/were made by Mopar. most Mercedes gas engines are hemispherical too)
"Cold" or "hot" is extremely important to the lifespan and ignition quality (how the engine runs). I have an old Evinrude outboard (1970) originally built for leaded fuel. Now I run unleaded in my mix (50:1). The original spark plugs or equivalent run too cold and end up with black residue pretty quickly.
I changed for a "hotter" spark plug and the problem is gone.
If you have multiple ground plug you need more voltage, better coil or MSD ignition.
in yours I See a alkaline b/ pack in curkit can you elaborate bit more tnx bro
Nice video 👍👌
I run stock plugs on my GTI with 200 hp more than stock. Not even 1 step colder. I change them every 15,000 miles ans ive had no issues. With hybrid turbos at 500+ bhp most guys run recessed tip plugs where the ground strap is flat and protrudes diagonally up from the body of the plug. They are like $40 each last i checked lol.
Excellent 👍👍
Very informative. Especially surrounding the myths that salesman and mechanics alike believe to be true.
Awesome TEP《☆》👍🏾🍔🤳I'm looking for the best Plugs to give long Life & Best Performance in my 5.7L HEMI. I bought the 2014 Charger Pursuit with 117k miles on it. No maintenance records were provided. I'll pull one of the Spark plugs out & see What's in it. I've heard the Bosh Double Iridium are the best HEMI plugs but I'm thinking Double Platinum should be fine for a higher mileage car. What do You suggest for my 5.7L HEMI??✌🏼😎☯️
The only new spark plug that ever failed on me was a Bosch platinum tip. The center came out of the base plug and I was refused warranty on it.
i used 2 use split fire plugs they would give better fuel milage than conventianal ones
how about brisk sparkplug? with no electrod pointing in the middle
I'm using e3 diamond spark plugs in my SLT V8 magnum 5.7l engine dodge Durango I really love using them
Helpful 🙂
Iridium sp adds some horsepowers
especialy at low rpms
and it gives extra fuel economy
Iridiums are meant for durability due to less voltage being required to fire
No plugs give you more HP. Only better fuel economy
@@shadowopsairman1583 so spark is better and burning gives more power
@@hamiltoncouple01 iridium plugs do more hp
Thanks, some useful info
Very good information