I love watching your videos.. growing up my dad had taught me about fixing cars .. sadly he had passed away back in 2011. I don't really have anyone else to help me fix my car if it breaks down and I look forward watching your videos and it has been a big help.. I personally want to thank you for the time you put in doing your videos and helping others.. much love and thank you ❤️
Working on cars is really fun. Just remember to never get frustrated. Biggest lesson I learned is if you get frustrated just stop, take a break and come back to it later.
@nyer070 lol same. Sometimes you try, try and try, get frustated, take a deep breath, long blink and a woosah. Take a break, come back try again and boom, get through immediately.
As of today, I've used your resources for a water pump, timing belt and transaxle repair on a '88 Nissan Maxima and a water pump, heater core, thermostat and starter/solenoid on a '87 Ford F150. Great info and you've probably saved me thousands, just by posting your vids.
Just wanted to come back here to say these videos helped me get my AST Diploma 7 years ago. My lecturer was a no show a lot and having the knowledge from these videos the exam was a breeze. Eric you're the man!
As a person who once taught auto mechanics for awhile and as a technical writer for some 20 years, I can say that this is an excellent presentation - clear cut, logically progressive, and complete. I would like to think that you are contemplating writing an automotive repair text or manual.
Eric.. Your videos provide more balance than a mechanic usually gives in person. Very informative.. simple.. easy to understand… humble in a sense that u dont always use mechanic jargon.. and all combined with a splash of humor. KEEP IT UP.. NEED TO BE ON A TV NETWORK
Ive been watching erics videos for 15 years, he has easily been the most valuable resource for learning about car repairs than any course i have taken or any other youtuber. truely a master of car repairs.
I owe you a great deal of gratitude. I was about to buy a new starter tomorrow assuming that was my problem. With your tips and advice I found out my problem was a loose wire to the battery you saved me a great deal of money work and stress. These videos also helped me when I had a blown head gasket. I appreciate your knowledge and willingness to help us all. Thank you so much. -Steve
Hey Eric, This video saved me a lot of money and pain. Yesterday I got gas at a local station. When I went to start my 2010 Toyota Sequoia, there was just a click. I called roadside assistance to get a jump start. They couldn't start it. I then called a wrecker to get my truck towed to my house (3 hours later). This morning I was looking online to buy a starter and watching TH-cam videos on how to change out the starter (5.7L). As you know it is a major pain! I happened upon you video on how to diagnose starter problems. You indicated that the key could be the source of the problem which triggered my memory that I saw a blinking Key indicator on my dash. I grabbed my spare key and it started!
Dear Eric: I have watched a lot of your educational videos. They are all very very good. You are a born teacher with a lot of patience, excellent pace and flow of information. Thank you very much for good quality videos and sound. That is a lot of hard work. Keep up the good work. You be blessed with lots of good health, prosperity, happiness and righteousness, Aameen!
Eric buddy your a savior , ever since I found your channel not only did I never bring my truck to anyone else to fix but I’ve actually made nice chunk of change fixing others. I’m certified electronics tech and went to school for 2 years , I learned more from u than any of theory in college. Your the man guy , changing peoples lives with your experience and guidance. God bless keep me coming !!
I've been watching your videos for more than a week now, and I've learned a tons of things from your videos and thanks to you I don't have to go those auto shop mechanic that charges more than I should pay. Now, I'm doing almost all the minor or major fixes on my own. Keep up the knowledge transfer man you're a pure blessing hope you continue to create more helpful videos to help people like me. \m/ You Rock...
Thank you. I assumed it was the starter after jumping the battery and banging the solenoid to no avail and was towed 80 miles back to home. (Thank goodness for AAA 100 mile towing option). This morning I followed your advice in NOT assuming that it was the starter began diagnosis at the battery. I discovered that my battery voltage was 12.4 volts. I again jumped the battery and it started right up. Apparently when I jumped it last night (in the middle of a very dark California desert) my jumper connection was poor. Lesson learned. Anyway, I just lowered the Tahoe off the jack, put away the tools and connected a charger to the battery. You saved me from alot of frustration and expense by showing me that the starter was NOT the problem. THANK YOU!
Eric Question i change my. Piston heads and rod arms i had a rod knock come to find one off completely other was loose i decided to remove all replace with. New 1,200 did the work myself only thing setting my crankpully i didn't lock my camhead. Car turns over but it's low in oil and my fuel pump not working ecu not reading I think its the wiring .i switch out ecu module.tried starting but nothing put back the old module i have no compression what can be the problem.
Eric, I've watched many of your videos but haven't put any to use until now. My roommate broke my car key. Tried starting it with just the metal key and not the fob and it only cranked. You stated that it could be the anti theft so I grabbed the fob and placed it near the ignition when turning the key over and hot damn it started. Normally I don't post comments but I wanted to say thanks because I'm not sure I ever would have thought of that and probably would have ran around in circles even though I never had problems starting it before the broken key matter. So thank you, what you have done may have not been big in your eyes but it definitely helped me out saved me some quid. Good luck on your project car.
You do some good instructional videos, my friend! :) I'm an old fart that has been around stubborn old wrecks for too long. One thing I pay particular attention to in slow-or-no-crank I call "I-squared-R" loss. I have about 20 or so DVMs such as you might use. But I generally never reach for one. I take a feel of the connections at the terminals of the heavy cables. I always find a warm one, which is the connection I'm going to give some attention to. Works almost always.
I love videos that actually explain, in simple terms, how to troubleshoot a problem. You do an excellent job of explaining the procedures. Keep up the great work!
It was years ago I had an issue with my car would not start & thru the process of elimination I changed everything that looked bad. It was an older car & I changed the Batt;, the starter, solenoid, just about everything when I noticed after the fact I changed everything possible that in trying to start it again my batt; cable was getting red hot only at one end & not the whole cable. The cables were the only thing that I never suspected as they looked new, but when I replaced it, it fixed it. L.O.L what an expensive experience but thankfully I did the work myself but if I'd of hired it done it probably cost the same except this way I knew it had all new parts. L.O.L Lesson learned
Eric you ROCK! I have a 06 Honda Odyssey that would not start tonight. I have had the car 1 wk. This past 3 wks have been incredibly awful for me. Lots of issues no $$. so anyways back to your AWESOME video. The van would not start freakked out called the dealership 25 mls from me with a car I can not bring there cause I can't get it started. Watched your video, got to the anti theft & the key, got my valet regular key would not start it, green key light flashed on the dash (it has been for a couple of days didn't know what it was thought I was leaving the key in to long???) Put the valet in the car started right up. Tried my regular key no start, turned it around van started right up. I love you! You are the greatest! If you are ever in the Holiday FL area I owe you a BIG HONKIN' coffee! You are the greatest!
Cold Cranking Amps (CCA) are measured at 0 degrees Farenheit. Even though you couldn't come up with that little bit of minutia on the spot, I would dare say you have probably forgotten more than I've ever learned. Excellent vid.
@aodhanof90 You always start by checking the battery and connections, I might try and find an auto parts store with a battery tester if you don't have access to one. If the battery is good try the checks in this video, voltage drops, to see what you have to determine if the starter is the issue or if it's something else.
just wanted to say thanks. your step by step instructions helped me pin down the failing neutral safety switch. By also shifting gears while ignition engaged, you can force a start on the engine while you order the part
This is the best, most complete and easiest to understand video on this subject I have seen. Thank you for sharing your wealth of knowledge with weekend mechanics like me.
@hentaidrifter It's hard to say, it could have been the starter windings or a connection issue, I would have liked to check the voltage drop or amps when the problem was occurring to know for sure.
I live in Vegas it's a gambling town. I'm taking a gamble to see if you'll see this question from a old guy. When you do the test with the voltmeter negative to the battery terminal and positive to the solenoid (meter reads 0.00) and then turn the ignition to the start you get close to what the voltage is to the battery. NOW my question is Instead Of getting O.00 at the meter before I turn the ignition switch. I'm getting over 12 volts like it reading the battery. What would cause that? Thx
Eric, a big THANK YOU shout out. Your key info for making sure i had 12.6V at the battery and then backing up to make sure i had it at the starter lead when key engaged pointed right to my starter as the problem. Total time used about 1.5 hrs incl having to go to two parts stores to get the starter i needed. All in all was easy job as engine jobs go! Thanks again! Jeff G
Don't be fooled as the specific issue that Eric is dealing with can also be a faulty cable somewhere so you should do a voltage drop test by checking your positives and ground cables.
Thanks for this video. Your comment about the clutch pedal switch being a possibility was exactly what I needed to hear. My 25 year old Prizm had lost the little plastic/rubber cushion on the clutch pedal arm that depresses the switch. The switch would sometimes get depressed by the little metal bracket that holds the cushion, if I pushed down on the clutch pedal with a little bit of a sideways force without realizing it. Usually, though, the switch would not be depressed because there was no cushion to push on it. This intermittent starting failure was puzzling, but you video helped me figure it out. No major problem at all. Nothing electrical, just a missing piece of rubber on the pedal.
I had a problem. My 2006 Town and country minivan was about out of gas. I was with my family of 6 when going to leave Home Depot it ran out of gas. I went bought a rain jacket then a gas can and went and got gas. After filling the fuel tank I started cranking. It would not start then everything stopped. It would just click , but no turn over. I was like oh my gosh now the battery is dead. We got a jump nothing. The battery was strong. I already had put a new alternator on. The guy jumping my battery said it's probably the starter, I agreed. After youtubing I was able to do a successful starter removal and replacement. The lady testing my old starter did not know how to properly hook it up but we thought the sylinode was good, but that the starter mechanics were bad. After starting the van the symptoms were still the same. There was a click, you could hear the fuel pump rev up then nothing. There was a red dot light that came on, but the battery was good. After prayer and youtube research I heard of doing a hard reset-disconnect the two battery terminal cables and hold them together. This didn't work either. I read tons of forums, heard about the red dot and right after believing God for wisdom into the situation I ran across Eric The Car Guy! Eric you said first it could be a key.....Then I said oh my GOSH I had just got a key made. I ran out tried my wife's factory key and the van started right up. There was nothing wrong with the van the whole time it was just the key. But praise GOD it is fixed and thank you Eric for your video, GOD BLESS YOU!!!
I was having the similar problem with my 05 Town & Country. I would go to start the vehicle and everything would just turn off. I just assumed it was my battery so I removed it and had it checked (also had my alternator replaced like a month prior). I was told that my battery was good and it may be my starter but once I put the battery back in and went to start my van, it came right on. So the problem would only happen like every once in a while. Oddly when the problem happened (meaning I would go to start the van, it would click them everything shuts off) I would go under the hood and fiddle with the positive cable, and everything would come back on and I was able to start the van with no problem. This method was working for me for about a week (because I didn't have the funds at the moment to fix the problem) until it came to a point that it stopped working. I finally get it to a shop and had my starter replaced. Everything was great when I got it back that day but the next day the problem persisted again! Unfortunately it's the holidays and everything is closed so i couldn't take it to the shop right away. I did the cable thing again and the car started. I am wondering if it's my cable instead of the starter. I really don't believe that it's the key thing cause I'm still using the original key I got with the van.
Joe Farley actually this is just for you Joe. You can read last part first if you are so inclined I had a similar issue ran out of gas I think but when I put gas in it started. Went to gas station to fill up with $20. I had shut my car off though wasn't going to. Well I couldn't restart. Spent 130 for a tow got to shop. Waited think they might look at it. They didn't get to it. I watched a ton on videos because I wanted to narrow down to what might be the problem. Saw one video say look to see if you get rpms while cranking. So I went to check and car started up to my surprised. I thanked God because i owe my boss for fuel pump fix 5 days earlier. I thought about the book of Daniel and said God if or if it isn't really fixed I will praise you. Shut car off started up again. Drove to get some food it started up fine. Was in my car with it off and a couple hours shop had closed so Ithought 'I'll drive it home and bring it in in morning have them test their work just to be sure Well car will not start. All this to say I'll still praise God and I'll thank you for your faith aswell was nice to read your message and willingness share your faith God bless you joe
Eric, great video that helped me solve a no start no crank problem at the battery. I unexpectedly discovered the positive cable connector was broken and therefore not gripping the positive post tightly. I slipped it off the post by hand. Replaced the connector and it started. Thank you!
Eric, I have had an issue starting my car, it ran fine on Saturday and nothing Sunday. Of course, I am thinking battery or starter. I happened across your video and the first thing that caught my attention was the anti theft idea. funny thing, my car came with a key with heavy plastic or rubber and then a plain key. I had been using the plain key. After you mentioned the anti theft, i just now used the key with the heavy plastic and my car started up like nothing was wrong. Thank you for this insight and I will be watching more of your videos. Thank you. Loretta
Glad i watched the whole video Eric! My 1986 Ford Thunderbird 5.0 is cranking for 2-3seconds then disengauging and i hear that exact same spinning noise! Just replaced the entire fuel system hoping after a new starter she will live again!
I have a 2009 Honda Civic that won't turn over. It just clicks. The first problem started when I went to a nearby store on my lunch break and when I got ready to leave it wouldn't start, like it was a dead battery. I never could get it to crank so I ended up leaving it until I got off work a few hours later, but then it started right up. I had battery, starter and alternator checked to find it was all good so I continued to drive it. I would go to work and come home, no problem. The other day instead of coming straight home I made a quick stop and it wouldn't crank and still won't crank, just a click. It seems as though if you crank once and go, it would be fine but if you cranked and go and stopped it wouldn't crank back up...Now this is where I am now but this time it didn't crank back up and it's been more than a few hours, it's been a couple days now . any suggestions on what this sounds like?
Gail Deloach Hi Gail, I hope you can find someone to check it out and get that fixed for you. Thankfully, I was able to have someone look at it and found that it was the starter. I had to order it because they don't make where you can rebuild them anymore. At least, the person that had been doing that for years wasn't able to rebuild it for me.
So I just bought a 1990 Audi 80 coupe Quattro that ran fine the past two days. And this morning, wouldn't start. Got home from work, wouldn't start. Watched this video, and went out and unlocked/locked/unlocked again...started. So I don't know if resetting the alarm was what did it or not, but I wouldn't have thought to try that of I didn't watch this. So thank you!
@Marshmallowrex It's best to try and identify the problem during times when the engine is not starting. BTW if it's cranking over and not starting it's not the starter that's at fault.
This video worth waiting all the way through! @12:39 is another reason Eric is deserves praise. Please appreciate experience. Thank you, Eric, and Happy Birthday!
Funny one for ya Eric. Nissan Stagea kept killing alternator main fuses, but stopped when I started the car and disconnected the starter main live. Do I have a shorted solenoid or motor?
After two weeks of rain and no help from my friends, I took my non mechanical self to TH-cam. I now have confidence of a proper diagnosis that I won't have to pay an arm and a leg for after towing my truck to the shop. Here's what you said that helped my particular problem, exactly. It all began with a sound after turning the key..."Sometimes a starter problem is not an electrical problem. Sometimes the starter does start the vehicle, but you get a lot of noise. On some vehicles (there are) long shims that go over the top of the starter assembly. Don't lose them when you take them off. You want to put them back later because they help your starter line up with your flywheel. Check to see if the teeth in your starter are abnormally worn, check to see if your starter is properly aligned. If the teeth are abnormally worn, every time the Bendix (one-way clutch) comes out, it's not making good contact with the flywheel. That's usually corrected by these shims being re-adjusted so they make good contact. Another thing that it could be is that the one-way roller clutch stays engaged and doesn't pop back into the assembly like it's supposed too. So, every time you turn the key, it's supposed too throw this out and make contact with the flywheel and then go back in when it's done. If not, and it stays in here, after your done turning the key you may hear it running, like…WWWhhheeeeeeeeeww or another sound after the fact. That could mean a mechanical problem with the starter."
I have a 99 explorer and sometimes i try to start it and nothing happens. I have the wife try to start it while i tap the starter and she fires right up....the explorer not the wife. is it starter or solenoid?
+Dennis Hart Flash Check that the cable are not loose on the starter post and on the solenoid, sometime It the starter Internal bushing that are worn that cause that problem just replace starter
Watching this video just saved me a ton of time and money. I thought I had a bad starter, but it was actually the key that wasn't programmed. Thanks a lot!!
I have an old Hyundai that would start when cold but when been run for around 10-15 kms,or engine gains temp ....it wouldn't start or say the motor wont run but it starts when pushed.
Had to give some praise to Eric. I've watched a dozen videos of his by now but had to give a like and subscribe today as once again his video was the most straightforward and relevant to what I was searching today.
@@greg23842384 my solution was my shifter cable... I had recently had trouble with the cable coming off transmission lever so I zip tied it.. it must have put just enough pressure on the transmission to not let it start
@@greg23842384 I recently had the same issue. But whenever mine would decide to crank it sounded like a dead battery/jump start condition. i.e., *_very_* weak. After charging the battery nothing changed & eventually it just clicked & the starter wouldn't engage at all. This is actually my second starter to exhibit this problem & while diagnosing the first I found that my clutch interlock switch was bad/not adjusted correctly. B/c that switch is a bitch to mess with, expensive, and was only working intermittently after adjustment, I decided to bypass the entire interlock circuit. To do this I ran a wire from the positive side of the battery into the cabin where I installed a momentary switch & then ran a wire from the switch to the starter solenoid. I used a black switch & put it out of the way so it couldn't be bumped accidentally & also wasn't obvious in case a nefarious character was looking to steal my ride. Anyway, both times I had to remove the starter to diagnose/replace. To see if there's an electrical issue in the start circuit you can simply jump the positive side of the battery to the starter solenoid (like I did with my switch). If it cranks normally you've ruled out the starter. If it doesn't there is a problem with the starter or the hefty positive wire going directly to the starter or possibly a ground issue. Both times these were fine & that told me bad starter. With the starter out you can hook up a battery & jump the solenoid to troubleshoot. First starter kicked the gear out with considerable force & after banging it around the motor turned & made a crazy racket. Okay, solenoid is fine both mechanically & electrically (kicked out the gear & passed battery voltage to the starter motor). I took this one apart & a few ball bearings fell out in the process. Turns out the bearing at the brush end of the motor had failed. Bearing cage disintegrated and allowed the balls to get out & let the starter rotor whip around. This destroyed the rotor & the brush assembly, and eventually the bearing on the output also failed, which was the nail in the coffin. The motor was junk & couldn't be rebuilt/reused. A few days ago I went through all of this again with my "new" starter (replaced the first one with a junkyard part taken from a low milage car a few years ago). This time the solenoid only kicked the gear out intermittently & when it did the motor sounded pretty sick. Okay, 2 or 3 problems. Bad solenoid, bad starter drive gear b/c the solenoid couldn't push it, and something with the motor or the contacts on the solenoid. I didn't have any replacement parts or specs for me to check the solenoid/motor electrically. After taking it apart I checked continuity/resistance between the solenoid connections when in the "activated" position & it seemed fine to me. So I cleaned the solenoid & all mechanical parts of the starter with carb cleaner. There was *_a ton_* of sticky gunk/dirt that the original grease had turned into inside the mechanicals. I regreased everything with some high temp grease & shot some white-lithium grease-in-a-can into the solenoid & worked it back & forth. Put it all back together & tested it & the solenoid kicked the gear out with a good amount force & did so repeatedly. Now the motor. Unfortunately I didn't test it by jumping the input to the battery. It's completely possible that the motor was okay. But I took it apart & found the brushes to be pretty much shot & in need of replacement pretty soon. They are contacting the commutator (comm) but doing so with a small amount of force. I also found the spaces between comm bars packed with brush material & the comm was black. There was no "step" on the comm where the brushes contact so it should still have decent life. I scuffed the comm with some fine grit sandpaper, first going up & down the length (axially) & then around (radially - I spun the rotor while holding sandpaper against the comm). I used an o-ring pick to dig out the brush material packed into the spaces between comm bars & hit everything with carb cleaner. I greased up the bearings & the gear & then reinstalled the motor before testing. Gear was kicked out and the motor engaged with what seemed to be good power each of the ~20 or so times I tried it so I reinstalled the unit onto the car. The result was a car (90 Accord, new to me ~2008) that *_I've never_* had spin over so easily & start so quickly. While it's currently working great, I still don't trust it due to the brushes. A new remanufactured unit runs ~$90-150 but I'm confident that the mechanicals are fine with their new helping of grease after being thoroughly cleaned. So I've got a brush set & 2 bearings (one seemed a bit loose, one seemed crunchy) on order for a much more reasonable ~$20. Motor is held together with two long bolts so the brushes are extremely easy to swap & with a torch the bearings should be easy to remove & baking the new bearings should let them slip on easily. I hope this helps you guys out!! Starters are very easy to take apart & put back together so if it's not a "start signal" issue I highly recommend doing so. You might get lucky & only have to spend a few bucks on brushes or a solenoid instead of $100+ on something with a short warranty that might not even work when new (I've had it happen). Feel free to ask something here or send me a message.
Love your Videos. Hey FYi if it is the theft system turn your key to of then to on do not try to start it. Keep your key to on position four about 10 to 15 min. Until the theft light goes off. Then try to start the car. If the lighr does not goes out then turn the key off wait 5mins then repeat if by the third time no go. then need to take it in. May not work on all cars but does most. Just saying
Could be the starter or the fuel line. Obviously have someone test your starter or just replace or re arrange the fuel line, or fuel pump, even the fuel filter.
I've watched your video start - finish... I've got to go and start working on my truck now! Thank You for educating me! I now have a truck that I can "Hopefully" work on and be effective!
what? my starter didnt turn over fast enuff...changed starter and it worked perfect....so...i dont know what he was talkin about it not bein a starter if it turns over..
Your videos and explanations are always so good!!! I work along side with the service manual and you do such a great job of explaining the concepts and larger scope of information that is needed to truly learn and understand. It’s extremely rewarding and I appreciate you!
I just wanted to say thanks very much for your videos. I have been trying to watch them for a while now, but they just helped me to save a tun of money! At least it seems that way to me!! I just replaced my third started motor in less than 69,000 miles on my personal car. Because I was and have been able to do the replacement work myself and the recent saarted moter was still under warranty, I basically did it all for free (notwithstanding all lot of my own personal time - which I think was very well spent here - !). Furthermore, I feel empowered! I can now change the part myself. As such, I did not have to try to find someone who is possibly willing, likely wait an extended time frame, and/or just beg someone to do the work and hope its right. Now instead, I just changed myself! This is much, much, much better and GREAT! I was able to fix my car on the someday that the starter failed; no lost days other than lost personal time. Now my car is in use and available for work on Monday. HURRAY! No lost work time or working saying I'm unreliable, etc! Thanks very much for your help!
Great videos for those of us who do not mind a little dirt on the the hands.... TH-cam is a money saver... Thanks Eric... You are the car guy indeed...
I appreciate the specifics details and complete explanation with every troubleshooting. He is a True professional at his craft. Thank you and please keep posting videos.
Car Guy, I like your videos, they are quite informative, but nobody's perfect......(and, I realize that you never claimed to be) You may have had someone already call you on this...(there is a good possibility that you have) I haven't read all the comments...but.... Anyway, here, my comment... You said, "don't even consider the starter being the problem if you turn the key and the engine cranks over." In my opinion, it is entirely possible to have an intermittent starter problem because of a dead spot on the starter. Just because the engine cranks over and the car starts I wouldn't completely rule out a starter problem. But, I do concur that it is a good idea to check for all other possible causes first.
Ray Hensley Not to mention that many times if it doesn't even try to turn over you can lightly tap it on it while having someone try to start the car and it will make connection long enough to start the car and get you home.
John Rob does this prove that its a starter problem then? This is the issue I'm currently having with my 2014 corolla. Starts sometimes, absolutely nothing sometimes. Tried jumper cables with no result. Just tapping on the starter while my wife cranks it will get it going.
@@metoyergg That would prove it to be an intermittent starter, and should be replaced as it eventually will get to the point where tapping isn't able to get the connection going enough to engage.
Alex Lagunas It could be but that still sounds like a battery\electricity issue. eric says in the video if it turns over at all it is not the starter, this is not always the case. On a truck of mine it was turning slowly, and it did it gradually where we barely noticed. When we had replaced the solenoid, wire, relay ect, we replaced the starter, and then no more issues.
Anyone out there with a 1970 bus or close, ever put a bosch starter on that doesn't have the shaft on the rear side. , my stater stopped working and I order a bosch. But it had no shaft , but says it will work the same for it has a self supporting armature shaft, but all i see is gears . The paperwork they are both inter changeable. The part number is the same, SR15N. Help help.
these are how to properly diagnose if the starter is in fact the problem; these are other common issues that will save you time and money to check it takes under 15 minutes.
I am by no means a mechanic , but I believe what he MIGHT be trying to say is that most STARTER PROBLEMS ARE USUALLY NOT THE STARTER AT ALL , BUT SOMETHING ELSE .... BATTERY , WIRING CONNECTIONS , IGNITION SWITCH , STARTER NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH , STARTER RELAY , ETC .....all less expensive problems if you know how to find them !!!! Most likely starters are frequently replaced when they are not even the problem .... this from a poor boy , who can not afford to get it wrong ..... GOOD VIDEO !!!!!
With this video, you just saved a lot of auto stores the headache of people returning starters that were installed then returned or returned as defective when the starter was fine all along.
They have this new invention called a tow truck. Some tow truck owners try to make money using there tow trucks to tow other peoples cars and not just their own. They're hard to find but if you google it you might find one.
Peugeot 206 2001 model took my niece to KFC one night turned the car off and it wouldn't start agen I know it's not the battery because that was new. Can't afford a new starter motor atm is it cheap to get my old one fixed some how
I have a 96 accord and the started failed, thanks to this video I found that the negative cable terminal on the engine block and the terminal on the wire from the ignition switch had corrosion, I used sand paper to clean them, and problem solved, so before going to the autoparts store to get a new starter check the cables and terminal, thanks Eric.
Best explanation I've ever seen. Very through and detailed. I at least know now what the problems could be,, before writing off the starter. Thank you for sharing what no doubt took years of experience to learn. and thanks for the steady camera work !
I learn a lot from these videos, not a tech, more of a shadetree at best, but here is one thing I want to point out about using voltage drop as a gauge of resistance in a circuit path. In order for there to be a voltage drop between two points you need to have current flow. If there is no current flowing due to a dead component, say the soleniod is open, you will have no voltage drop between battery and solenoid even if the resistance is very high in the wiring between the two. V=IR, if I=0, V=0
I know a woman whom had starter issues, and she's never replaced her alternator in the 12 years of owning her vehicle. She was told by the tow driver whom supplied her with a newer battery that her battery wasn't the issue with why it was starting. I told her to have her alternator checked and see if it needed to be replaced. I also have an older Ford form the late 60s and was told that those starters are larger and generally very loud. I've also been told on my vehicle it's a sign of a starter's age when it becomes very loud and slow.
Thank you so much. It was the anti theft system. In less that 2 minutes you solved my problem and saved me couple hundred bucks. All I had to do was to lock and unlock the car with the key fob remote and it was all solved
Eric, thank you so much for this video. You saved me from buying a unnecessary starter for my wife’s car. The problem ended up being with her key fob causing the anti theft system to not allow the car to start. You are a great teacher and really know your stuff! Thanks so much!
This video helped me discover that the problem with my car lied in the key-fob security. A little battery piece fell out of the fob, and even though the key itself was intact, the car would not start! Great video, thank you!
Glad you mentioned the starter internal clutch, I forgot if Bendix invented it or if they just make all of them. I had one fail in a 1973 Dodge Dart when I was about a Freshman in college. Immediately some other guys around my age told me it was the "Bendix springs" in the starter, what they do, and I needed a new starter (or rebuild). Unfortunately, I could not convey this information properly to my date's father (who came by to tow me with his pickup), nor to my own father. Both insisted I needed a jump! It did not matter how many times I said "I have plenty of power to whir the starter around, it is not engaging and turning the engine over" they both insisted a jump would solve the problem. I had to demonstrate that to both of them too. Jeesh!
i REALLY APPRECIATE your videos Eric! You are thorough and base your diag on facts not "feel" ... Even with your experience you want to validate all options and even teaching us gives us a great feel to how a mechanic's mind should be.
I like that you mentioned the security system no start issue. my 1195 Oldsmobile with the VATS wires in the switch frayed off like almost all do so instead of changing the ignition switch I took resistors and bypassed it all together cost me about three dollars and some black tape ;)
Eric! You make this very easy to follow and understand. With really clear shots of what I can expect to see and how to interpret the information! I was looking for something to send a friend so they could avoid unnecessarily replacing a starter. Thanks!
Eduardo, this problem is normally caused by damage (missing teeth) to either your flywheel on the engine or the pinion gear on the starter. It is a physical and not electrical problem. Removing the starter and inspecting both components is the first place to start. You can also lift the car and inspect the flywheel (if it it visible) from underneath before checking the starter.
Damn this was 10 years ago. Congratulations been a subscriber since 09. Any I'm having a no start issue in the 2002 Lexus ES300. Went to start the car. Started slowly and eventually nothing. Lights on the dash all light but no crank. Battery fully charged. 12.6. i don't think it's the anti theft system
Good diagnostic section! I used the hammer trick during a $ lean semester at college to start my 1962 Hillman. Like the silicon on the terminals (another good tip).
Thank you so much for your video! We got to the words “neutral safety switch” and the lightbulb in our heads came on. Put our bus in neutral and started like a dream. Saved us an unnecessary trip to the car parts store!
Thanks for the tips.... I forgot about that stupid neutral safety switch on my Plymouth voyage. Checked everything else why the vehicle wouldn't click or crank. Dang wires to the switch was the problem. Thank you
For people with a manual gearbox, check that your clutch safety switch stop/bumper didn't break apart and fall down into your floorboard. That's a $4 fix right there, and happens a lot on Honda's.
Yeah that happened to me took me a while to figure out why my brake lights kept staying on and draining my battery.. then I notice little broken pieces on my floorboard.. 😆
Eric for your FYI on testing a battery with a Midtronics tester you have to connect to the lead post if you connect to any metal contacts you will get a bad reading on your CCA, i own a MDX-225 and have experienced bad CCA readings like what your video on batteries shows, retesting to solid lead connection gives an acceptable CCA reading
I worked on a customer's Ranger once that he had replaced the starter, battery and was about to replace the alternator. I asked him to let me have it for a day, and turns out on that truck the main power wire going down to the starter was only inches from the exhaust manifold and was cooked inside. Chances are, his starter and battery were good. But that actually took a while to diagnose, because it would start with a jump start.
If you turn the key and just hear a click, the more likely reason than an internal engine problem is still a starter problem. The starter solenoid is getting power and pushing the bendix (the shaft with a gear that spins the flywheel he's talking about at the end) out BUT the bendix is not spinning. There are metal "brushes" that get worn down that need to be replaced or carbon and other crap that gets stuck to the armature that needs to be cleaned. Google starter pics to see what that is lol.
I really appreciate your video ( replacing starter 2000 Ford Explorer) Sparky's Garage. I know nothing about cars, and I could understand what you were instructing. Thanks, Gina
Good informative video, the only thing I wish you would have brought up, is the connection from the starter wire, to the starter itself, in my case I had a bad connection. I took the starter to the parts place to be tested and it was fine, I noticed there was some loose bolts/nuts and a lot of grease/oil when I cleaned it up and tighten all the nuts and bolts started like a champ.
I watch a lot of your vids cause u work on Honda’s and your very knowledgeable... I recently replaced rear main seal on my 93 Acura TL put everything back and I have no start nor a crank... no dash lights no wipers and now power windows .. horn and headlights work and an rpm gauge that still turns on light... it’s complete silence when I turn key no matter what.. seat belts don’t retract.. AC blows air ... but everything else is dead and it has a new starter... I feel like there’re is no power going to starter
I jumped under my 2.3L Ranger with a loud clicking starter, pulled the lead wire, jumped it with a driver. It was just a bad connection that would disconnect while it was trying to start! Gave her a little brush up, and a wiggle and she works fine now!
I enjoy your videos & I find them very helpful. I am replacing a starter on a 2003 KIA Spectra. When the key is turned to crank you can hear the silonode click just one time. (no clicking like a dead battery) I think it's the starter. When a starter goes bad they do nothing at all I thought. It's a pain in the but 3 bolt starter so I just wanted your option on it.
Thank you. I am having a friend take a look at it this week. Its very frustrating when it decides to not work, usually it happens when I have to go somewhere important. I'm leaning toward ignition/wiring problems as it now starts when I hold the key down for a prolonged time or as I said before, shake it.
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I love watching your videos.. growing up my dad had taught me about fixing cars .. sadly he had passed away back in 2011. I don't really have anyone else to help me fix my car if it breaks down and I look forward watching your videos and it has been a big help.. I personally want to thank you for the time you put in doing your videos and helping others.. much love and thank you ❤️
Working on cars is really fun. Just remember to never get frustrated. Biggest lesson I learned is if you get frustrated just stop, take a break and come back to it later.
@nyer070 lol same. Sometimes you try, try and try, get frustated, take a deep breath, long blink and a woosah.
Take a break, come back try again and boom, get through immediately.
@@morpheus232001 that's right!
As of today, I've used your resources for a water pump, timing belt and transaxle repair on a '88 Nissan Maxima and a water pump, heater core, thermostat and starter/solenoid on a '87 Ford F150.
Great info and you've probably saved me thousands, just by posting your vids.
Just wanted to come back here to say these videos helped me get my AST Diploma 7 years ago. My lecturer was a no show a lot and having the knowledge from these videos the exam was a breeze. Eric you're the man!
As a person who once taught auto mechanics for awhile and as a technical writer for some 20 years, I can say that this is an excellent presentation - clear cut, logically progressive, and complete. I would like to think that you are contemplating writing an automotive repair text or manual.
Eric.. Your videos provide more balance than a mechanic usually gives in person. Very informative.. simple.. easy to understand… humble in a sense that u dont always use mechanic jargon.. and all combined with a splash of humor. KEEP IT UP.. NEED TO BE ON A TV NETWORK
1:03
Ive been watching erics videos for 15 years, he has easily been the most valuable resource for learning about car repairs than any course i have taken or any other youtuber. truely a master of car repairs.
I owe you a great deal of gratitude. I was about to buy a new starter tomorrow assuming that was my problem. With your tips and advice I found out my problem was a loose wire to the battery you saved me a great deal of money work and stress. These videos also helped me when I had a blown head gasket. I appreciate your knowledge and willingness to help us all. Thank you so much. -Steve
Hey Eric, This video saved me a lot of money and pain. Yesterday I got gas at a local station. When I went to start my 2010 Toyota Sequoia, there was just a click. I called roadside assistance to get a jump start. They couldn't start it. I then called a wrecker to get my truck towed to my house (3 hours later). This morning I was looking online to buy a starter and watching TH-cam videos on how to change out the starter (5.7L). As you know it is a major pain! I happened upon you video on how to diagnose starter problems. You indicated that the key could be the source of the problem which triggered my memory that I saw a blinking Key indicator on my dash. I grabbed my spare key and it started!
Dear Eric: I have watched a lot of your educational videos. They are all very very good. You are a born teacher with a lot of patience, excellent pace and flow of information. Thank you very much for good quality videos and sound. That is a lot of hard work. Keep up the good work. You be blessed with lots of good health, prosperity, happiness and righteousness, Aameen!
Ameen brotha.
Can I get a Hallelujah!
He’s the guy in the shop who’s always right about everything but you can’t be mad at him cuz he’s so damn cool and humble.
@@Mega_Mikey right
Yes
Eric buddy your a savior , ever since I found your channel not only did I never bring my truck to anyone else to fix but I’ve actually made nice chunk of change fixing others. I’m certified electronics tech and went to school for 2 years , I learned more from u than any of theory in college. Your the man guy , changing peoples lives with your experience and guidance. God bless keep me coming !!
I've been watching your videos for more than a week now, and I've learned a tons of things from your videos and thanks to you I don't have to go those auto shop mechanic that charges more than I should pay. Now, I'm doing almost all the minor or major fixes on my own. Keep up the knowledge transfer man you're a pure blessing hope you continue to create more helpful videos to help people like me. \m/ You Rock...
Eric, you're not just "The Car Guy," you're a "Car Guru." Good information on diagnosing starter problems that aren't starter problems. Thanks!
Thank you. I assumed it was the starter after jumping the battery and banging the solenoid to no avail and was towed 80 miles back to home. (Thank goodness for AAA 100 mile towing option).
This morning I followed your advice in NOT assuming that it was the starter began diagnosis at the battery. I discovered that my battery voltage was 12.4 volts.
I again jumped the battery and it started right up. Apparently when I jumped it last night (in the middle of a very dark California desert) my jumper connection was poor. Lesson learned.
Anyway, I just lowered the Tahoe off the jack, put away the tools and connected a charger to the battery.
You saved me from alot of frustration and expense by showing me that the starter was NOT the problem.
THANK YOU!
00
+Donald Shade My mothers car voltage was about the same! except with it not being in the car at all!
Eric Question i change my. Piston heads and rod arms i had a rod knock come to find one off completely other was loose i decided to remove all replace with. New 1,200 did the work myself only thing setting my crankpully i didn't lock my camhead. Car turns over but it's low in oil and my fuel pump not working ecu not reading I think its the wiring .i switch out ecu module.tried starting but nothing put back the old module i have no compression what can be the problem.
Eric, I've watched many of your videos but haven't put any to use until now. My roommate broke my car key. Tried starting it with just the metal key and not the fob and it only cranked. You stated that it could be the anti theft so I grabbed the fob and placed it near the ignition when turning the key over and hot damn it started. Normally I don't post comments but I wanted to say thanks because I'm not sure I ever would have thought of that and probably would have ran around in circles even though I never had problems starting it before the broken key matter. So thank you, what you have done may have not been big in your eyes but it definitely helped me out saved me some quid. Good luck on your project car.
You do some good instructional videos, my friend! :) I'm an old fart that has been around stubborn old wrecks for too long. One thing I pay particular attention to in slow-or-no-crank I call "I-squared-R" loss. I have about 20 or so DVMs such as you might use. But I generally never reach for one. I take a feel of the connections at the terminals of the heavy cables. I always find a warm one, which is the connection I'm going to give some attention to. Works almost always.
I love videos that actually explain, in simple terms, how to troubleshoot a problem. You do an excellent job of explaining the procedures. Keep up the great work!
It was years ago I had an issue with my car would not start & thru the process of elimination I changed everything that looked bad. It was an older car & I changed the Batt;, the starter, solenoid, just about everything when I noticed after the fact I changed everything possible that in trying to start it again my batt; cable was getting red hot only at one end & not the whole cable. The cables were the only thing that I never suspected as they looked new, but when I replaced it, it fixed it. L.O.L what an expensive experience but thankfully I did the work myself but if I'd of hired it done it probably cost the same except this way I knew it had all new parts. L.O.L Lesson learned
Eric you ROCK! I have a 06 Honda Odyssey that would not start tonight. I have had the car 1 wk. This past 3 wks have been incredibly awful for me. Lots of issues no $$. so anyways back to your AWESOME video. The van would not start freakked out called the dealership 25 mls from me with a car I can not bring there cause I can't get it started. Watched your video, got to the anti theft & the key, got my valet regular key would not start it, green key light flashed on the dash (it has been for a couple of days didn't know what it was thought I was leaving the key in to long???) Put the valet in the car started right up. Tried my regular key no start, turned it around van started right up.
I love you! You are the greatest! If you are ever in the Holiday FL area I owe you a BIG HONKIN' coffee! You are the greatest!
Beautiful video on a complicated issue.
You must be helping a lot of people.
Thanks for the effort.
Cold Cranking Amps (CCA) are measured at 0 degrees Farenheit. Even though you couldn't come up with that little bit of minutia on the spot, I would dare say you have probably forgotten more than I've ever learned. Excellent vid.
@aodhanof90 You always start by checking the battery and connections, I might try and find an auto parts store with a battery tester if you don't have access to one. If the battery is good try the checks in this video, voltage drops, to see what you have to determine if the starter is the issue or if it's something else.
just wanted to say thanks. your step by step instructions helped me pin down the failing neutral safety switch. By also shifting gears while ignition engaged, you can force a start on the engine while you order the part
One of the coolest car guys to watch
Yupppppp
This is the best, most complete and easiest to understand video on this subject I have seen. Thank you for sharing your wealth of knowledge with weekend mechanics like me.
@hentaidrifter It's hard to say, it could have been the starter windings or a connection issue, I would have liked to check the voltage drop or amps when the problem was occurring to know for sure.
I live in Vegas it's a gambling town. I'm taking a gamble to see if you'll see this question from a old guy. When you do the test with the voltmeter negative to the battery terminal and positive to the solenoid (meter reads 0.00) and then turn the ignition to the start you get close to what the voltage is to the battery. NOW my question is Instead Of getting O.00 at the meter before I turn the ignition switch. I'm getting over 12 volts like it reading the battery. What would cause that? Thx
Eric, a big THANK YOU shout out. Your key info for making sure i had 12.6V at the battery and then backing up to make sure i had it at the starter lead when key engaged pointed right to my starter as the problem. Total time used about 1.5 hrs incl having to go to two parts stores to get the starter i needed. All in all was easy job as engine jobs go! Thanks again! Jeff G
Don't be fooled as the specific issue that Eric is dealing with can also be a faulty cable somewhere so you should do a voltage drop test by checking your positives and ground cables.
Thanks for this video. Your comment about the clutch pedal switch being a possibility was exactly what I needed to hear. My 25 year old Prizm had lost the little plastic/rubber cushion on the clutch pedal arm that depresses the switch. The switch would sometimes get depressed by the little metal bracket that holds the cushion, if I pushed down on the clutch pedal with a little bit of a sideways force without realizing it. Usually, though, the switch would not be depressed because there was no cushion to push on it. This intermittent starting failure was puzzling, but you video helped me figure it out. No major problem at all. Nothing electrical, just a missing piece of rubber on the pedal.
I had a problem. My 2006 Town and country minivan was about out of gas. I was with my family of 6 when going to leave Home Depot it ran out of gas. I went bought a rain jacket then a gas can and went and got gas. After filling the fuel tank I started cranking. It would not start then everything stopped. It would just click , but no turn over. I was like oh my gosh now the battery is dead. We got a jump nothing. The battery was strong. I already had put a new alternator on. The guy jumping my battery said it's probably the starter, I agreed. After youtubing I was able to do a successful starter removal and replacement. The lady testing my old starter did not know how to properly hook it up but we thought the sylinode was good, but that the starter mechanics were bad. After starting the van the symptoms were still the same. There was a click, you could hear the fuel pump rev up then nothing. There was a red dot light that came on, but the battery was good. After prayer and youtube research I heard of doing a hard reset-disconnect the two battery terminal cables and hold them together. This didn't work either. I read tons of forums, heard about the red dot and right after believing God for wisdom into the situation I ran across Eric The Car Guy! Eric you said first it could be a key.....Then I said oh my GOSH I had just got a key made. I ran out tried my wife's factory key and the van started right up. There was nothing wrong with the van the whole time it was just the key. But praise GOD it is fixed and thank you Eric for your video, GOD BLESS YOU!!!
Yes but God helps those who help themselves. Good post- thanks.
@bangmeister2012 quit your *god* damned bitching already.
I was having the similar problem with my 05 Town & Country. I would go to start the vehicle and everything would just turn off. I just assumed it was my battery so I removed it and had it checked (also had my alternator replaced like a month prior). I was told that my battery was good and it may be my starter but once I put the battery back in and went to start my van, it came right on.
So the problem would only happen like every once in a while. Oddly when the problem happened (meaning I would go to start the van, it would click them everything shuts off) I would go under the hood and fiddle with the positive cable, and everything would come back on and I was able to start the van with no problem. This method was working for me for about a week (because I didn't have the funds at the moment to fix the problem) until it came to a point that it stopped working.
I finally get it to a shop and had my starter replaced. Everything was great when I got it back that day but the next day the problem persisted again! Unfortunately it's the holidays and everything is closed so i couldn't take it to the shop right away. I did the cable thing again and the car started. I am wondering if it's my cable instead of the starter. I really don't believe that it's the key thing cause I'm still using the original key I got with the van.
Joe Farley actually this is just for you Joe. You can read last part first if you are so inclined
I had a similar issue ran out of gas I think but when I put gas in it started. Went to gas station to fill up with $20. I had shut my car off though wasn't going to. Well I couldn't restart. Spent 130 for a tow got to shop. Waited think they might look at it. They didn't get to it. I watched a ton on videos because I wanted to narrow down to what might be the problem. Saw one video say look to see if you get rpms while cranking. So I went to check and car started up to my surprised. I thanked God because i owe my boss for fuel pump fix 5 days earlier. I thought about the book of Daniel and said God if or if it isn't really fixed I will praise you. Shut car off started up again. Drove to get some food it started up fine. Was in my car with it off and a couple hours shop had closed so Ithought 'I'll drive it home and bring it in in morning have them test their work just to be sure
Well car will not start. All this to say I'll still praise God and I'll thank you for your faith aswell was nice to read your message and willingness share your faith
God bless you joe
Eric, great video that helped me solve a no start no crank problem at the battery. I unexpectedly discovered the positive cable connector was broken and therefore not gripping the positive post tightly. I slipped it off the post by hand. Replaced the connector and it started. Thank you!
The end of the video told me everything I needed to know. Thanks for everything. Always enjoy your videos. Very detailed.
Eric,
I have had an issue starting my car, it ran fine on Saturday and nothing Sunday. Of course, I am thinking battery or starter. I happened across your video and the first thing that caught my attention was the anti theft idea. funny thing, my car came with a key with heavy plastic or rubber and then a plain key. I had been using the plain key. After you mentioned the anti theft, i just now used the key with the heavy plastic and my car started up like nothing was wrong. Thank you for this insight and I will be watching more of your videos. Thank you.
Loretta
Just ruled out my starter being bad and found the source of my no start. Thank you for your videos Eric you da man!!
Jackmorgan ....what was the problem?
@@ggburg8118 you were
Glad i watched the whole video Eric! My 1986 Ford Thunderbird 5.0 is cranking for 2-3seconds then disengauging and i hear that exact same spinning noise! Just replaced the entire fuel system hoping after a new starter she will live again!
@MSolomon751 I honestly don't know but if you perform the checks in this video you'll have a better idea of what is causing the issue. Good luck.
I'm looking at all the comments and how many years it's been yet Eric has so much valuable info. Thank you.
I have a 2009 Honda Civic that won't turn over. It just clicks. The first problem started when I went to a nearby store on my lunch break and when I got ready to leave it wouldn't start, like it was a dead battery. I never could get it to crank so I ended up leaving it until I got off work a few hours later, but then it started right up. I had battery, starter and alternator checked to find it was all good so I continued to drive it. I would go to work and come home, no problem. The other day instead of coming straight home I made a quick stop and it wouldn't crank and still won't crank, just a click. It seems as though if you crank once and go, it would be fine but if you cranked and go and stopped it wouldn't crank back up...Now this is where I am now but this time it didn't crank back up and it's been more than a few hours, it's been a couple days now . any suggestions on what this sounds like?
loose battery cable or ground?
+tristannolan85 I found out it was the starter. Thanks
Hi Brenda, Im having the same problem. With my car.
Gail Deloach Hi Gail, I hope you can find someone to check it out and get that fixed for you. Thankfully, I was able to have someone look at it and found that it was the starter. I had to order it because they don't make where you can rebuild them anymore. At least, the person that had been doing that for years wasn't able to rebuild it for me.
So I just bought a 1990 Audi 80 coupe Quattro that ran fine the past two days. And this morning, wouldn't start. Got home from work, wouldn't start. Watched this video, and went out and unlocked/locked/unlocked again...started. So I don't know if resetting the alarm was what did it or not, but I wouldn't have thought to try that of I didn't watch this. So thank you!
@Marshmallowrex It's best to try and identify the problem during times when the engine is not starting. BTW if it's cranking over and not starting it's not the starter that's at fault.
This video worth waiting all the way through! @12:39 is another reason Eric is deserves praise. Please appreciate experience. Thank you, Eric, and Happy Birthday!
Funny one for ya Eric. Nissan Stagea kept killing alternator main fuses, but stopped when I started the car and disconnected the starter main live. Do I have a shorted solenoid or motor?
After two weeks of rain and no help from my friends, I took my non mechanical self to TH-cam. I now have confidence of a proper diagnosis that I won't have to pay an arm and a leg for after towing my truck to the shop. Here's what you said that helped my particular problem, exactly. It all began with a sound after turning the key..."Sometimes a starter problem is not an electrical problem. Sometimes the starter does start the vehicle, but you get a lot of noise. On some vehicles (there are) long shims that go over the top of the starter assembly. Don't lose them when you take them off. You want to put them back later because they help your starter line up with your flywheel. Check to see if the teeth in your starter are abnormally worn, check to see if your starter is properly aligned. If the teeth are abnormally worn, every time the Bendix (one-way clutch) comes out, it's not making good contact with the flywheel. That's usually corrected by these shims being re-adjusted so they make good contact. Another thing that it could be is that the one-way roller clutch stays engaged and doesn't pop back into the assembly like it's supposed too. So, every time you turn the key, it's supposed too throw this out and make contact with the flywheel and then go back in when it's done. If not, and it stays in here, after your done turning the key you may hear it running, like…WWWhhheeeeeeeeeww or another sound after the fact. That could mean a mechanical problem with the starter."
I have a 99 explorer and sometimes i try to start it and nothing happens. I have the wife try to start it while i tap the starter and she fires right up....the explorer not the wife. is it starter or solenoid?
+Dennis Hart Flash
Check that the cable are not loose on the starter post and on the solenoid, sometime It the starter Internal bushing that are worn that cause that problem just replace starter
+segalaw19800 thanks..I did all that Im just going to replace the starter and solenoid and be done with it
The explorer not the wife 😂
@@flash7711 did this fix your issue? I have the same vehicle same problem
Watching this video just saved me a ton of time and money. I thought I had a bad starter, but it was actually the key that wasn't programmed. Thanks a lot!!
How do you check the key?
I have an old Hyundai that would start when cold but when been run for around 10-15 kms,or engine gains temp ....it wouldn't start or say the motor wont run but it starts when pushed.
Sounds like neutral safety switch. I've had crank sensors stop working once up to temp but they shut down fuel and fire
One of the best car how-tos I've seen. Very well done. Some more things for me to check than I'd ever thought of.
thank you Eric, now i know for what is the stabilizer on car :-)
Had to give some praise to Eric. I've watched a dozen videos of his by now but had to give a like and subscribe today as once again his video was the most straightforward and relevant to what I was searching today.
What if your car makes the clicking noise at first but after turning the key a couple times eventually starts?
Im having the same problem.... it sometimes takes multiple times before it will crank normally
Same problem here. It may be starter selonoid. Please comment if you find the cause of this problem
@@greg23842384 my solution was my shifter cable... I had recently had trouble with the cable coming off transmission lever so I zip tied it.. it must have put just enough pressure on the transmission to not let it start
@@perception913 thanks I will have a look hopefuly same problem here
@@greg23842384 I recently had the same issue. But whenever mine would decide to crank it sounded like a dead battery/jump start condition. i.e., *_very_* weak. After charging the battery nothing changed & eventually it just clicked & the starter wouldn't engage at all. This is actually my second starter to exhibit this problem & while diagnosing the first I found that my clutch interlock switch was bad/not adjusted correctly. B/c that switch is a bitch to mess with, expensive, and was only working intermittently after adjustment, I decided to bypass the entire interlock circuit. To do this I ran a wire from the positive side of the battery into the cabin where I installed a momentary switch & then ran a wire from the switch to the starter solenoid. I used a black switch & put it out of the way so it couldn't be bumped accidentally & also wasn't obvious in case a nefarious character was looking to steal my ride.
Anyway, both times I had to remove the starter to diagnose/replace. To see if there's an electrical issue in the start circuit you can simply jump the positive side of the battery to the starter solenoid (like I did with my switch). If it cranks normally you've ruled out the starter. If it doesn't there is a problem with the starter or the hefty positive wire going directly to the starter or possibly a ground issue. Both times these were fine & that told me bad starter.
With the starter out you can hook up a battery & jump the solenoid to troubleshoot. First starter kicked the gear out with considerable force & after banging it around the motor turned & made a crazy racket. Okay, solenoid is fine both mechanically & electrically (kicked out the gear & passed battery voltage to the starter motor).
I took this one apart & a few ball bearings fell out in the process. Turns out the bearing at the brush end of the motor had failed. Bearing cage disintegrated and allowed the balls to get out & let the starter rotor whip around. This destroyed the rotor & the brush assembly, and eventually the bearing on the output also failed, which was the nail in the coffin. The motor was junk & couldn't be rebuilt/reused.
A few days ago I went through all of this again with my "new" starter (replaced the first one with a junkyard part taken from a low milage car a few years ago). This time the solenoid only kicked the gear out intermittently & when it did the motor sounded pretty sick. Okay, 2 or 3 problems. Bad solenoid, bad starter drive gear b/c the solenoid couldn't push it, and something with the motor or the contacts on the solenoid. I didn't have any replacement parts or specs for me to check the solenoid/motor electrically. After taking it apart I checked continuity/resistance between the solenoid connections when in the "activated" position & it seemed fine to me. So I cleaned the solenoid & all mechanical parts of the starter with carb cleaner. There was *_a ton_* of sticky gunk/dirt that the original grease had turned into inside the mechanicals. I regreased everything with some high temp grease & shot some white-lithium grease-in-a-can into the solenoid & worked it back & forth. Put it all back together & tested it & the solenoid kicked the gear out with a good amount force & did so repeatedly.
Now the motor. Unfortunately I didn't test it by jumping the input to the battery. It's completely possible that the motor was okay. But I took it apart & found the brushes to be pretty much shot & in need of replacement pretty soon. They are contacting the commutator (comm) but doing so with a small amount of force. I also found the spaces between comm bars packed with brush material & the comm was black. There was no "step" on the comm where the brushes contact so it should still have decent life. I scuffed the comm with some fine grit sandpaper, first going up & down the length (axially) & then around (radially - I spun the rotor while holding sandpaper against the comm). I used an o-ring pick to dig out the brush material packed into the spaces between comm bars & hit everything with carb cleaner. I greased up the bearings & the gear & then reinstalled the motor before testing. Gear was kicked out and the motor engaged with what seemed to be good power each of the ~20 or so times I tried it so I reinstalled the unit onto the car.
The result was a car (90 Accord, new to me ~2008) that *_I've never_* had spin over so easily & start so quickly.
While it's currently working great, I still don't trust it due to the brushes. A new remanufactured unit runs ~$90-150 but I'm confident that the mechanicals are fine with their new helping of grease after being thoroughly cleaned. So I've got a brush set & 2 bearings (one seemed a bit loose, one seemed crunchy) on order for a much more reasonable ~$20. Motor is held together with two long bolts so the brushes are extremely easy to swap & with a torch the bearings should be easy to remove & baking the new bearings should let them slip on easily.
I hope this helps you guys out!! Starters are very easy to take apart & put back together so if it's not a "start signal" issue I highly recommend doing so. You might get lucky & only have to spend a few bucks on brushes or a solenoid instead of $100+ on something with a short warranty that might not even work when new (I've had it happen). Feel free to ask something here or send me a message.
Love your Videos. Hey FYi if it is the theft system turn your key to of then to on do not try to start it. Keep your key to on position four about 10 to 15 min. Until the theft light goes off. Then try to start the car. If the lighr does not goes out then turn the key off wait 5mins then repeat if by the third time no go. then need to take it in. May not work on all cars but does most. Just saying
My friend just tapped his with a hammer and it worked. Works with fuel pumps sometimes to. Not a permanent fix though.
Eric you are one of the few that takes the time to inform, step by step. Congratulations and keep it up.
Could be the starter or the fuel line. Obviously have someone test your starter or just replace or re arrange the fuel line, or fuel pump, even the fuel filter.
I've watched your video start - finish... I've got to go and start working on my truck now! Thank You for educating me! I now have a truck that I can "Hopefully" work on and be effective!
what? my starter didnt turn over fast enuff...changed starter and it worked perfect....so...i dont know what he was talkin about it not bein a starter if it turns over..
your old starter was fine sounds like a contact was bad open it up and clean contacts then it should run like new
brad ford k
karatikid👨❤️💋👨
I had the same problem. If im taking the starter out after 150000 miles, its getting a new one vs cleaning it.
Same deal here. Didn't send the right voltage to pcm. No spark in ignition
armando hernandez ever heard of worn brushes? No cleaning for that.
Your videos and explanations are always so good!!! I work along side with the service manual and you do such a great job of explaining the concepts and larger scope of information that is needed to truly learn and understand. It’s extremely rewarding and I appreciate you!
this is so cool, i was just having car starting issues! lol!
I just wanted to say thanks very much for your videos. I have been trying to watch them for a while now, but they just helped me to save a tun of money! At least it seems that way to me!! I just replaced my third started motor in less than 69,000 miles on my personal car. Because I was and have been able to do the replacement work myself and the recent saarted moter was still under warranty, I basically did it all for free (notwithstanding all lot of my own personal time - which I think was very well spent here - !).
Furthermore, I feel empowered! I can now change the part myself. As such, I did not have to try to find someone who is possibly willing, likely wait an extended time frame, and/or just beg someone to do the work and hope its right. Now instead, I just changed myself! This is much, much, much better and GREAT!
I was able to fix my car on the someday that the starter failed; no lost days other than lost personal time. Now my car is in use and available for work on Monday. HURRAY! No lost work time or working saying I'm unreliable, etc!
Thanks very much for your help!
like Eric and you tube team.
Great videos for those of us who do not mind a little dirt on the the hands.... TH-cam is a money saver... Thanks Eric... You are the car guy indeed...
My starter goes click, bang bang ,boom, grennngicran bang bang awwwwwgreerrerrrrr wrennngggggg.
Check your u joints.
I appreciate the specifics details and complete explanation with every troubleshooting. He is a True professional at his craft. Thank you and please keep posting videos.
Car Guy, I like your videos, they are quite informative, but nobody's perfect......(and, I realize that you never claimed to be) You may have had someone already call you on this...(there is a good possibility that you have) I haven't read all the comments...but....
Anyway, here, my comment...
You said, "don't even consider the starter being the problem if you turn the key and the engine cranks over."
In my opinion, it is entirely possible to have an intermittent starter problem because of a dead spot on the starter. Just because the engine cranks over and the car starts I wouldn't completely rule out a starter problem. But, I do concur that it is a good idea to check for all other possible causes first.
Ray Hensley Not to mention that many times if it doesn't even try to turn over you can lightly tap it on it while having someone try to start the car and it will make connection long enough to start the car and get you home.
Just don't tap hard , cause I broke /cracked the permanent magnet inside the casing ..what a mess :)
John Rob does this prove that its a starter problem then? This is the issue I'm currently having with my 2014 corolla. Starts sometimes, absolutely nothing sometimes. Tried jumper cables with no result. Just tapping on the starter while my wife cranks it will get it going.
@@metoyergg That would prove it to be an intermittent starter, and should be replaced as it eventually will get to the point where tapping isn't able to get the connection going enough to engage.
0:54 literally saved me from wasting my weekend and possibly hundreds of dollars. Spare key battery was dead
Ive got alot of great tips from Eric over the years, he knows his stuff and Im a mechanic myself.
What if the starter like slowly rotates then stops it's that a bad starter sign
Alex Lagunas It could be but that still sounds like a battery\electricity issue. eric says in the video if it turns over at all it is not the starter, this is not always the case. On a truck of mine it was turning slowly, and it did it gradually where we barely noticed. When we had replaced the solenoid, wire, relay ect, we replaced the starter, and then no more issues.
I have that same issue it tries to turn over then it just starts clicking
Anyone out there with a 1970 bus or close, ever put a bosch starter on that doesn't have the shaft on the rear side. , my stater stopped working and I order a bosch. But it had no shaft , but says it will work the same for it has a self supporting armature shaft, but all i see is gears . The paperwork they are both inter changeable. The part number is the same, SR15N. Help help.
Just the way it's made. SR15N is apparently new ,not reman.
Best car repair channel period.
You explained how to check every thing else except the starter itself. Which was supposed to be what you are diagnosing
these are how to properly diagnose if the starter is in fact the problem; these are other common issues that will save you time and money to check it takes under 15 minutes.
I am by no means a mechanic , but I believe what he MIGHT be trying to say is that most STARTER PROBLEMS ARE USUALLY NOT THE STARTER AT ALL , BUT SOMETHING ELSE .... BATTERY , WIRING CONNECTIONS , IGNITION SWITCH , STARTER NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH , STARTER RELAY , ETC .....all less expensive problems if you know how to find them !!!! Most likely starters are frequently replaced when they are not even the problem .... this from a poor boy , who can not afford to get it wrong ..... GOOD VIDEO !!!!!
With this video, you just saved a lot of auto stores the headache of people returning starters that were installed then returned or returned as defective when the starter was fine all along.
Car won't start, take it to the dealer, HOW ?
They have this new invention called a tow truck. Some tow truck owners try to make money using there tow trucks to tow other peoples cars and not just their own. They're hard to find but if you google it you might find one.
Tow
I use my trailer and one of my other vehicles
You need better friends if you can't get your car fixed
Peugeot 206 2001 model took my niece to KFC one night turned the car off and it wouldn't start agen I know it's not the battery because that was new. Can't afford a new starter motor atm is it cheap to get my old one fixed some how
Are you a Democrat supporter????
I have a 96 accord and the started failed, thanks to this video I found that the negative cable terminal on the engine block and the terminal on the wire from the ignition switch had corrosion, I used sand paper to clean them, and problem solved, so before going to the autoparts store to get a new starter check the cables and terminal, thanks Eric.
Omg... I feel like I'm in physics class lol
Best explanation I've ever seen. Very through and detailed. I at least know now what the problems could be,, before writing off the starter. Thank you for sharing what no doubt took years of experience to learn. and thanks for the steady camera work !
How u supposed to take it to the dealer if it doesn't start
By a towing vehicle?
Supska easy, just pick it up and carry it
Hancock?
I do that all the time, super easy!
If you can't figure that out you sure don't need to be working on it yourself. Bet you vote democrat
I learn a lot from these videos, not a tech, more of a shadetree at best, but here is one thing I want to point out about using voltage drop as a gauge of resistance in a circuit path. In order for there to be a voltage drop between two points you need to have current flow. If there is no current flowing due to a dead component, say the soleniod is open, you will have no voltage drop between battery and solenoid even if the resistance is very high in the wiring between the two. V=IR, if I=0, V=0
I know a woman whom had starter issues, and she's never replaced her alternator in the 12 years of owning her vehicle. She was told by the tow driver whom supplied her with a newer battery that her battery wasn't the issue with why it was starting. I told her to have her alternator checked and see if it needed to be replaced.
I also have an older Ford form the late 60s and was told that those starters are larger and generally very loud. I've also been told on my vehicle it's a sign of a starter's age when it becomes very loud and slow.
Thank you so much. It was the anti theft system. In less that 2 minutes you solved my problem and saved me couple hundred bucks. All I had to do was to lock and unlock the car with the key fob remote and it was all solved
Eric, thank you so much for this video. You saved me from buying a unnecessary starter for my wife’s car. The problem ended up being with her key fob causing the anti theft system to not allow the car to start. You are a great teacher and really know your stuff! Thanks so much!
This video helped me discover that the problem with my car lied in the key-fob security. A little battery piece fell out of the fob, and even though the key itself was intact, the car would not start! Great video, thank you!
Glad you mentioned the starter internal clutch, I forgot if Bendix invented it or if they just make all of them. I had one fail in a 1973 Dodge Dart when I was about a Freshman in college. Immediately some other guys around my age told me it was the "Bendix springs" in the starter, what they do, and I needed a new starter (or rebuild). Unfortunately, I could not convey this information properly to my date's father (who came by to tow me with his pickup), nor to my own father. Both insisted I needed a jump! It did not matter how many times I said "I have plenty of power to whir the starter around, it is not engaging and turning the engine over" they both insisted a jump would solve the problem. I had to demonstrate that to both of them too. Jeesh!
i REALLY APPRECIATE your videos Eric! You are thorough and base your diag on facts not "feel" ... Even with your experience you want to validate all options and even teaching us gives us a great feel to how a mechanic's mind should be.
Access to your videos in Jail is a game changer for alot of people. Thank you.
I like that you mentioned the security system no start issue. my 1195 Oldsmobile with the VATS wires in the switch frayed off like almost all do so instead of changing the ignition switch I took resistors and bypassed it all together cost me about three dollars and some black tape ;)
Eric! You make this very easy to follow and understand. With really clear shots of what I can expect to see and how to interpret the information!
I was looking for something to send a friend so they could avoid unnecessarily replacing a starter.
Thanks!
Eduardo, this problem is normally caused by damage (missing teeth) to either your flywheel on the engine or the pinion gear on the starter. It is a physical and not electrical problem. Removing the starter and inspecting both components is the first place to start. You can also lift the car and inspect the flywheel (if it it visible) from underneath before checking the starter.
Damn this was 10 years ago. Congratulations been a subscriber since 09.
Any I'm having a no start issue in the 2002 Lexus ES300. Went to start the car. Started slowly and eventually nothing. Lights on the dash all light but no crank. Battery fully charged. 12.6. i don't think it's the anti theft system
Good diagnostic section! I used the hammer trick during a $ lean semester at college to start my 1962 Hillman. Like the silicon on the terminals (another good tip).
Thank you so much for your video! We got to the words “neutral safety switch” and the lightbulb in our heads came on. Put our bus in neutral and started like a dream. Saved us an unnecessary trip to the car parts store!
Thanks for the tips.... I forgot about that stupid neutral safety switch on my Plymouth voyage. Checked everything else why the vehicle wouldn't click or crank. Dang wires to the switch was the problem. Thank you
For people with a manual gearbox, check that your clutch safety switch stop/bumper didn't break apart and fall down into your floorboard. That's a $4 fix right there, and happens a lot on Honda's.
Yeah that happened to me took me a while to figure out why my brake lights kept staying on and draining my battery.. then I notice little broken pieces on my floorboard.. 😆
Eric for your FYI on testing a battery with a Midtronics tester you have to connect to the lead post if you connect to any metal contacts you will get a bad reading on your CCA, i own a MDX-225 and have experienced bad CCA readings like what your video on batteries shows, retesting to solid lead connection gives an acceptable CCA reading
Thank You Jesus for wisdom (and patience and understanding with people that deny you)...and thank you too Eric for posting up these helpful vids!
I worked on a customer's Ranger once that he had replaced the starter, battery and was about to replace the alternator. I asked him to let me have it for a day, and turns out on that truck the main power wire going down to the starter was only inches from the exhaust manifold and was cooked inside. Chances are, his starter and battery were good. But that actually took a while to diagnose, because it would start with a jump start.
If you turn the key and just hear a click, the more likely reason than an internal engine problem is still a starter problem. The starter solenoid is getting power and pushing the bendix (the shaft with a gear that spins the flywheel he's talking about at the end) out BUT the bendix is not spinning. There are metal "brushes" that get worn down that need to be replaced or carbon and other crap that gets stuck to the armature that needs to be cleaned. Google starter pics to see what that is lol.
I really appreciate your video ( replacing starter 2000 Ford Explorer) Sparky's Garage. I know nothing about cars, and I could understand what you were instructing. Thanks, Gina
Good informative video, the only thing I wish you would have brought up, is the connection from the starter wire, to the starter itself, in my case I had a bad connection. I took the starter to the parts place to be tested and it was fine, I noticed there was some loose bolts/nuts and a lot of grease/oil when I cleaned it up and tighten all the nuts and bolts started like a champ.
I watch a lot of your vids cause u work on Honda’s and your very knowledgeable... I recently replaced rear main seal on my 93 Acura TL put everything back and I have no start nor a crank... no dash lights no wipers and now power windows .. horn and headlights work and an rpm gauge that still turns on light... it’s complete silence when I turn key no matter what.. seat belts don’t retract.. AC blows air ... but everything else is dead and it has a new starter... I feel like there’re is no power going to starter
I bench tested starter works great
I jumped under my 2.3L Ranger with a loud clicking starter, pulled the lead wire, jumped it with a driver. It was just a bad connection that would disconnect while it was trying to start! Gave her a little brush up, and a wiggle and she works fine now!
I have the same car . Mines will not start . It won't even make a sound
DeShawn Rogers
Turns out it was just the battery being flaky! The lead wire was loose, but that wasn't my ultimate problem.
I enjoy your videos & I find them very helpful. I am replacing a starter on a 2003 KIA Spectra. When the key is turned to crank you can hear the silonode click just one time. (no clicking like a dead battery) I think it's the starter. When a starter goes bad they do nothing at all I thought. It's a pain in the but 3 bolt starter so I just wanted your option on it.
Thank you. I am having a friend take a look at it this week. Its very frustrating when it decides to not work, usually it happens when I have to go somewhere important. I'm leaning toward ignition/wiring problems as it now starts when I hold the key down for a prolonged time or as I said before, shake it.