Checking valve to valve clearance b16 | b18c ( vtec locked )
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 พ.ย. 2021
- skunk2 pro2 cams on b20vtec we check valve to valve and show you guys our simple way of checking for better safety measures
our test rig is the b16a head for the b20 vtec project but we sampled some Ferrea flat valves
for more photos on our other projects or builds for better reference
do check out our shop page at
/ srdms
#b18c5
#all motor
#honda
#b16a2
#hondata
#Valve to valve clearance
#v2v
#Skunk2 pro2 cam
#Ferrea valves
#Ferrea 5000 valves
#Checking valve to valve clearance b16 b18c
#SRDmotorsports
#B20vtec
#B20 vtec
#honda b20 vtec - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
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this is perfect, just what im looking for
That’s really great 😎
Great info! This ch deserves 200k plus subscriber! Such a good informative ch. Thank you!
oh maaaaaaan thanks for that bruh!!!!
but maybe 150k so u get 50k 🤣
but thanks and you do awesome stuff too! plus that shine bruh! mirror like
im actually building my own block soon too! i appreciate this very much man very explanatory!
thats def nice to know! and im glad the videos help and as you may notice on some videos i write "notes" and always do that when you are building yours this way it helps back track on things , the earlier sohc series and current b20vtec series should have some tips n tricks for you :)
Really nice step by step guide. Have to say that is a must for any mechanic. Thumb up. :)
Thank you :) and yes it is not so hard when shown this way but always sounds complicated if explained thru words only...Im glad it was easy to understad watching indeed
@@SRDmotorsports Yes, step by step. Where there is a lot to do, it is the only way. :)
great content!!
Thanks brother!
man, how I wish I have seen this before the pandemic, I have a feeling my engine still has room for improvement just by watching this vid.
oh but just did it last year but been doing this since prolly 2012 hehhe
@@SRDmotorsports unfortunately lately ko lang din nakita tong youtube channel nyo, but still a lot of infos here that we can use next time😁
@@the063one thats all good TBH i started the Channel August last year 2021 and got to share better stuff only by November 2021 🤣
by the way sir the 0.041 gap its from the feeler gauge, but where did that specific number/value came from?
@@the063one general knowledge I mean all proper builders know the minimum “safe” is 0.040” so I just did 0.041 so it’s more 😂
Valve to guide stem clearance x 4 since both guides can move independently and heat expansion
Just like piston to head “quench” distance is a minimum of 0.042” for safety
Cuz on the engine stand nothing has expanded to operating temps yet :)
Awesome video bro, thanks so much for the info as I am looking at getting my B16b ITR cams dialed in
Oh maaaan thank you for checking this out and for the support as watching and liking it is a big support :)
Yes! Even ITR and CTR cams it’s ideal because every head mill or block mill changes the situation
The valve to valve vid and piston to valve vid is part of this because you know it’s always nerve wracking to adjust on the dyno so doing this? Gives a bit of comfort and a ton of assurance 😎
@@SRDmotorsports totally agree with you bro, I don’t want the tuner to dial it in on the Dyno and it goes kaboom lol
@@TRDKhanbrothers maaaan with hundreds of dyno experience under my belt? It never changed the nervous feel I guess that proves we human 😀 and some good cigarettes after hahaha
Awesome work brother
I tried my best as I realized we rarely see V2V clearancing videos
Very good content, I made a new video on my channel as well 🛠😎🤙❤
new subscriber. very informative videos man. How did you get started in working on engines? Its something I always wanted to do but dont know how to get started. things like clearancing and degreeing cams etc. Very excited to to watch your other videos.
Whoa! thanks its nice to know it still helps :)
actually I was lucky enough to start 1st yr college back in 2003ish and have an EG hatch and ofcourse for a year or two all i could afford was proper maintenance 🤣 so i kept researching while we know not all stuff we see online is accurate especially FB lol you gotta reference what they do vs what they claim etc its harder now dispite more internet savvy it also means more "bs" info so thats my goal here
Since old forum days are long gone, giving back to the community isnt bad... plus free advertsising... customers can go to us and unlike others keep "claiming" what they can do... ours is here all shared 🤣
Thanks, I'm about to do this measurement and this video is really useful! Just a quick question, you measured it at (0,2) (1,3) and (-1,1). The exhaust is always +2 ahead of the intake, so shouldn't the V2V be the same on all 3 measurements regardless?
Also how did you know to start at (0,2)? Did you just get lucky and end up at 0.041"? I'm thinking I should start at (0,4) just to ensure there is no contact, and slowly move back the exhaust 1 degree at a time until I reach 0.040". What do you think?
whoa glad its gonna be useful man!
first question - in theiry it should be the same (0,2) (1,3) and (-1,1) but there are times it changes mainly cuz of the curve or "rate" on howthey lift n close... but yeah in theory and lets say if u got over 0.042" v2v then yep safe to assume but if going risky at 0.038" il check every setting lol
-second question
how i knew to start at (0,2) well most if not all Gen3 skunk2 cams the intake often is close or at zero to start with as long as no milling is done etc cuz milling "retards" the intake
then knowing that i always knew these stage cam always wanted that "separation" range
loke 2-3deg difference from the intake so part of it was that
and the other thing was i double checked before recording as it was early days (last year) shooting so i wanted to be certain and ofcourse save viewers "time" cuz coulda been a 38min video hahaha
@@SRDmotorsports Thanks man. Going off to do the V2V measurement today, appreciate the help!
@@tomthecat8172 cool man! take notes while at it
🚗🛠❤🙏
Thaaaaanks as always brother!
Hope its not too late to still ask questions. Does the valve lash need to be set to 0 for an accurate reading? Long time viewer, thanks!
Never too late to ask good and cool questions 😎
Actually yeah I wondered about this before but it is proper to set the lash to zero because if we think about it.. lash of let’s say 0.007
with that space on opening and closing that’s 0.014 and that’s a few deg crank rotation
@@SRDmotorsports your the man, thanks for the quick reply too!
For sure 😎
Is your valve lash set to 0 or manufacture specs for the cam?
For accurate in degreeing always zero + the manufacturer specs is “running” specs
So set lash to zero adjust cam and check clearance? Sorry I’m just trying to get this right.
Yes
Hello sir im just curious, will it still be safe even if the vtec switched with that very close of a gap from the valves?
ah sorry if it wasnt mentioned... thats actually vtec engaged and locked as that is the point of checking valve 2 valve :)
with vtec disengaged there is probably tons of room :)
@@SRDmotorsports ahh i see, btw keep uploading! Im really fond of your detailed videos
@@Mulongski09 I really really appriciate that and also the question (notice i added to the title) :) Gives me more drive and ideas for next tech also aside from the series
Just want to add a question sir, currently im running a bone stock p6fd1 engine, im planning to get a programmble box plus adjustable camgear, what would be your recommended degree for making most out of it without sacrificing safety? Thank you
@@Mulongski09 the hard part on that is no engine is set the same or similar even on same stock cam or same ctr cam or even aftermarket, like a muffler difference alone changes alot on both cam relation. This is where a knowledgeable builder/tuner will shine... and ofcourse for full throttle performance, a dyno session is the best...now it becomes a bigger "palaisipan" for a decent street car but if its for race then easy choice must dyno... thats the dilema :)
And what type of cams are this?
Skunk2 Pro2
When I lock vtech I can’t turn the them , any ideas
something is binding double check everything cuz that means when engine goes into vtec it won’t turn? Or it’s just real heavy to turn
@@SRDmotorsports my man this is my setup. B16 head type r cams, blox lma, valves springs, Ferrara standard flat valves, all brand new. B20b bottoms end with ycp pistons, I’ve watched so much of your b20v build. And that’s what got me going on this build. Exhaust cam turns fine. Intake will stop turning at almost peak lobe. I’ve adjusted the valves and everything and locked vtech just like your video, I just don’t understand what I’m doing wrong
peak lobe is peak lift it could be hitting piston double check how belt is it might be a tooth off
@@SRDmotorsports head is not on block yet just checking for valve to valve clearance, I can turn the exhaust cam but not the intake cam
yep then so something’s wrong with how you locked vtec