The intro is really great. The part with the car racing is the one I like the most. I find very useful when you show what is going on very closely. Thumb up. Great work.
@@RRRRefuelRideRace yes especially bits of the museum some start up, and your ride/warm up videos it will be very nice and will make me want to go out and ride :)
Haha actually since you mentioned that? i do plan to keep it cuz we have some tiny valve locks that we just "balot" in paper to not lose a piece (18pc a set) and these containers are perfect! we used to buy clay thats in a small box and plastic...and "sayang" i should have chosen these kinda way back 🤣
Great video SRDmotorsportsTV. I'm just wondering if the cylinder head and the deck of the block is shaved. If so, how may millimeters are shaved on both? Thankz.
Good question as results often change once those two things are done and how much. Block is unshaved as it is flat and good Head we got this previously with 0.040" shave hence the appropriate step of clay checking which was a perfect candidate for this video :)
@@SRDmotorsports thank you for a highlighted reply. Hehehe! Assuming an unmilled head and block mated together with stock phk pistons (not pocketed) is it gonna be a hit or a miss? Hehe..
@@benjieco630 Thank you for the good questions as thats part of the main reason for claying :) on the PHK i think depending on cams i mean stock b16 cam will be safe i think even ctr cams id say safe to even advancing a degree but... id rather not :)
@@SRDmotorsports yeah! Done that. I thought you also have stored measurements on those specs. Your valve to valve clearance and cam degreeing videos are totally awesome, for those who understand the whole concept. More power bro!
@@benjieco630 well on the claying? stored measurements will be hard plus.. everytime we buy head unshaved we find out its 0.020"' milled 🤣 its fine ofcourse just means gotta measure once again so it kind of became a norm for me lol
Hey thanks for asking :) we were showing clay testing but the b20vtec that was shown here js our current series also and head has 0.020" mill done (had it when we got it even before porting) static comp is roughly 12.75:1 :)
I believe so, or quite identical... what i do know is the valve pockets on these are a bit bigger because the dome/piston tops were actually mirrored from an old Arias 7.5cc something 84mm piston
Thanks for making these videos! Quick question though. Do the cams need to be degreed before clay checking or after? I just did my valve to valve check using your video and trying to figure out what the next process is. It's my first time going this deep into rebuilding an engine so please forgive me if I sound like a noob.
oh man! wow thank you for the comment thank you! it is nice out videos help :) and its quite a "non noob" question btw and which goes first? dependa i mean example if we are running skunk2 pro3 cams? (big) we might clay first just to be sure cuz there are times before we get to the ideal lobe center we might hit it? but on lets say skunk2 tuner2 or pro2 even crower403? you can degree first and the clay checking is just added comfort to know that on the dyno u have your "window" thats safe to adjust as gained from -valve to valve -clay test checking I hope i answered it good enough
@@SRDmotorsports Thanks so much for the quick reply! I'm just running a Skunk2 Tuner1 so not aggressive at all but the head does have oversized valves so I might as well clay check for that added comfort.
1Up is real good I’ve built 3 engines with those and Ecu_Later’s b20 I built since 2018 and no problems as a street car on pump gas no trailer and runs 12.5sec in the 1/4
u mean piston to valve clearance? intake is 0.040" minimum safely exhaust you'll never go as close to 0.040" if properly built so its the intake thats mainly the worry ive clayed dozens of Pro3 and even Bisi Custom Webcams (thay ran 10s in the Phippines before the nitro/meth craze now) :)
@@SRDmotorsports I see we are to favor the tigther clearances on intake side over the exhaust side? I'm actually wondering how far do you go off of centerline on the camshafts on the dyno? and what direction [advance/retard] you usually see hp levels go up, I ask this so I may check the p2v clearance in which ever direction to make sure won't have issue cam gear adjustment on the dyno
@@Booyaabuilt actually thats the trick detail i hinted as trivia on the video example if skunk2 suggests the pro2 to be 98LC intake? retard 1 deg on the dyno if u made power? "i know what it needs" and advance 1 def and it makes more? "id know wat it needs" so usually a re dyno means changes to what the engine likes 😏 I didnt go into detail on what reactions or actions on the dyno like example if its lacking or too much intake airspeed? or if its exhaust? mainly cuz Locally to me i see after this vid? FB builders be posting their degreeing stuff while thats good and all that... it is only half the story :) and customers gotta choose wisely on their builder cuz of they dont know? it means theyre "all talk" and locally there are TONS of those fb experts 🤣 but are fast cuz of nitro/meth lol
@@SRDmotorsports I appreciate all the information I was actually able degree it and find cl but i wanted to map out all the dangerous area as dont go beyond point by following v2v clearances which were .035">.040" but it seems to me that's its all advancement on the cam gears where i get intake closest to p2v as you suggested, but I've seen few videos where ppl made power retarded the intake cam a few degrees... I think did enough on my motor to get as close as I could to the 200hp mark, hopefully, that's why I'm chasing the tighter side of the clearances thinking that squeeze out few more hp.
@@Booyaabuilt yes indeed alot of times if you got all the parts complimenting each other... retard 1 or 2 makes more I remember in 2018 I dynoed (i build it too) a b20 1up piston pro3 siR, cuz everything worked well it made 225whp at -1 retard intake... unfortunately we dont bother with "uncorrected" numbers to amaze peeps lol but that SiR 4 door (was white) on westlake tires (normal street) on 95octane ran 13.2sec at a track up north... seems okay no slicks or semis lol
Good question and thank you for asking 😏 we use a small ball bearing thats similar in diameter to the vtec locking pin, but u can also use a thin spacer if you find one of the same size. Place it on the non springed rocker side so the vtec pin protrudes across the vtec rocket and unto the springed primary rocker and hold it together to install or ziptie (but u have to make sure u dont leave ziptie traces or debri on the head after
@@TRDKhanbrothers Thanks for asking on the comment section, believe it or not these questions help me alot... as what i do? is passion first hence i enjoy it but i missed the thought about locking vtec and now il be able to include a short segment on that specifically on the B20vtec episode 3 series like just an added info share moment
The intro is really great. The part with the car racing is the one I like the most. I find very useful when you show what is going on very closely. Thumb up. Great work.
Yes! Thank you for noticing the "intro" :) i agree the race feel is good hehe
@@SRDmotorsports Will try to invent something also for my channel. :)
@@RRRRefuelRideRace yes especially bits of the museum some start up, and your ride/warm up videos it will be very nice and will make me want to go out and ride :)
@@SRDmotorsports Yes man, exactly that. Will do.
Could watch this info all day
That’s cuz we same… big cams is just the right cam 😎
very informative video.. salamat sa info sir..
Thanks for the comment and for checking it out :) we hope it helps alot of people
💐 thank you for the video
Yes sir, this is also quite important
Cool intro.. Oh i like those duck and butterfly plastic containers.. 🦆🦋👍😊
Haha actually since you mentioned that? i do plan to keep it cuz we have some tiny valve locks that we just "balot" in paper to not lose a piece (18pc a set) and these containers are perfect!
we used to buy clay thats in a small box and plastic...and "sayang" i should have chosen these kinda way back 🤣
Thanks for the info sir
Great video SRDmotorsportsTV. I'm just wondering if the cylinder head and the deck of the block is shaved. If so, how may millimeters are shaved on both? Thankz.
Good question as results often change once those two things are done and how much.
Block is unshaved as it is flat and good
Head we got this previously with 0.040" shave hence the appropriate step of clay checking which was a perfect candidate for this video :)
@@SRDmotorsports thank you for a highlighted reply. Hehehe! Assuming an unmilled head and block mated together with stock phk pistons (not pocketed) is it gonna be a hit or a miss? Hehe..
@@benjieco630 Thank you for the good questions as thats part of the main reason for claying :)
on the PHK i think depending on cams i mean stock b16 cam will be safe i think even ctr cams
id say safe to even advancing a degree but... id rather not :)
@@SRDmotorsports yeah! Done that. I thought you also have stored measurements on those specs. Your valve to valve clearance and cam degreeing videos are totally awesome, for those who understand the whole concept. More power bro!
@@benjieco630 well on the claying? stored measurements will be hard plus.. everytime we buy head unshaved we find out its 0.020"' milled 🤣 its fine ofcourse just means gotta measure once again so it kind of became a norm for me lol
Hey, did you mill the head at all? What’s the static compression?
Hey thanks for asking :) we were showing clay testing but the b20vtec that was shown here js our current series also and head has 0.020" mill done (had it when we got it even before porting)
static comp is roughly 12.75:1 :)
Are these piston domes bigger than nippon racing 84mm ctr replica pistons?
I believe so, or quite identical... what i do know is the valve pockets on these are a bit bigger because the dome/piston tops were actually mirrored from an old Arias 7.5cc something 84mm piston
@@SRDmotorsports thanks for the info
Thanks for making these videos! Quick question though. Do the cams need to be degreed before clay checking or after? I just did my valve to valve check using your video and trying to figure out what the next process is. It's my first time going this deep into rebuilding an engine so please forgive me if I sound like a noob.
oh man! wow thank you for the comment thank you! it is nice out videos help :)
and its quite a "non noob" question btw
and which goes first? dependa i mean example if we are running skunk2 pro3 cams? (big) we might clay first just to be sure cuz there are times before we get to the ideal lobe center we might hit it?
but on lets say skunk2 tuner2 or pro2 even crower403? you can degree first and the clay checking is just added comfort to know that on the dyno u have your "window" thats safe to adjust as gained from
-valve to valve
-clay test checking
I hope i answered it good enough
@@SRDmotorsports Thanks so much for the quick reply! I'm just running a Skunk2 Tuner1 so not aggressive at all but the head does have oversized valves so I might as well clay check for that added comfort.
@@vision27 oh yes perfect word "comfort" indeed and for future dyno adjustments you will be safe too
Hi sir, what are your thoughts about 1up pistons.. im thinking of using the same pistons sir.. hope you notice my comment sir.. Godbless
1Up is real good I’ve built 3 engines with those and Ecu_Later’s b20 I built since 2018 and no problems as a street car on pump gas no trailer and runs 12.5sec in the 1/4
@@SRDmotorsports very helpful sir! Klaro👌🏻 I appreciate ur answer sir. Mag contact nlng ako sa fb page nyo sir if ever :) Godbless!
@@boyaratig1802 thanks for appreciating the videos too
are u running .040" on both intake and exhaust valves
u mean piston to valve clearance? intake is 0.040" minimum safely
exhaust you'll never go as close to 0.040" if properly built so its the intake thats mainly the worry
ive clayed dozens of Pro3 and even Bisi Custom Webcams (thay ran 10s in the Phippines before the nitro/meth craze now) :)
@@SRDmotorsports I see we are to favor the tigther clearances on intake side over the exhaust side? I'm actually wondering how far do you go off of centerline on the camshafts on the dyno? and what direction [advance/retard] you usually see hp levels go up, I ask this so I may check the p2v clearance in which ever direction to make sure won't have issue cam gear adjustment on the dyno
@@Booyaabuilt actually thats the trick detail i hinted as trivia on the video example if skunk2 suggests the pro2 to be 98LC intake?
retard 1 deg on the dyno if u made power? "i know what it needs" and advance 1 def and it makes more? "id know wat it needs" so usually a re dyno means changes to what the engine likes 😏
I didnt go into detail on what reactions or actions on the dyno like example if its lacking or too much intake airspeed? or if its exhaust?
mainly cuz Locally to me i see after this vid? FB builders be posting their degreeing stuff while thats good and all that... it is only half the story :) and customers gotta choose wisely on their builder cuz of they dont know? it means theyre "all talk" and locally there are TONS of those fb experts 🤣 but are fast cuz of nitro/meth lol
@@SRDmotorsports I appreciate all the information I was actually able degree it and find cl but i wanted to map out all the dangerous area as dont go beyond point by following v2v clearances which were .035">.040" but it seems to me that's its all advancement on the cam gears where i get intake closest to p2v as you suggested, but I've seen few videos where ppl made power retarded the intake cam a few degrees... I think did enough on my motor to get as close as I could to the 200hp mark, hopefully, that's why I'm chasing the tighter side of the clearances thinking that squeeze out few more hp.
@@Booyaabuilt yes indeed alot of times if you got all the parts complimenting each other... retard 1 or 2 makes more
I remember in 2018 I dynoed (i build it too) a b20 1up piston pro3 siR, cuz everything worked well it made 225whp at -1 retard intake... unfortunately we dont bother with "uncorrected" numbers to amaze peeps lol
but that SiR 4 door (was white) on westlake tires (normal street) on 95octane ran 13.2sec at a track up north...
seems okay no slicks or semis lol
How did you lock the Vtec?
Good question and thank you for asking 😏
we use a small ball bearing thats similar in diameter to the vtec locking pin, but u can also use a thin spacer if you find one of the same size.
Place it on the non springed rocker side so the vtec pin protrudes across the vtec rocket and unto the springed primary rocker and hold it together to install or ziptie (but u have to make sure u dont leave ziptie traces or debri on the head after
@@SRDmotorsports thanks so much sir, enjoy watching the videos as you give detailed explanations
@@TRDKhanbrothers Thanks for asking on the comment section, believe it or not these questions help me alot... as what i do? is passion first hence i enjoy it
but i missed the thought about locking vtec and now il be able to include a short segment on that specifically on the B20vtec episode 3 series like just an added info share moment
@@SRDmotorsports thanks so much sir
No problem we all learning 😎
@@TRDKhanbrothers plus this way u are obligated to share next episode haahaha kidding :)