The information you provide is very interesting and backuped by scientific explanation. I have a SiR with B20/B16 head. I see you love VW Beetle just like me when I was younger. I look forward to meeting you personally and be honored for a short chat. I will try to find how I can get in touch with you and booked an appointment. I give your channel a double thumbs up and a personal admiration.
Oh hey!!! Fellow Veedubber 😎 it’s my dads first car so naturally where I learned to drive a stick shift (and launch it drag style but my dad never found out lol)
@@picole321 oh wait its 11:54pm here tommorow i can show you a photo but on my page but basically u can just fold "jornal" because its soft so what u to is crumple them like trash 🤣 then fold enough amount to sort of hold the valves closed when you put the head chamber down on ur workbench this saves the valves from risk of bending when u press them and open and hit the desk
@@picole321 just estimate if u fold too little jornal? then valve will still open a little bit? if you fold muito grande? the head will not sit flat on the desk 🤣
Very helpful video. I’m curious how does the fuel atomize with 120 grit surface? If the port is sanded at 220 grit. Is that when it’s too smooth. Where is the balance point?
I’m not sure with your question sir, but our finish is was always 120grit I feel anything smoother = is no difference so “why” spend more time as if it’s “no difference” it’s the same as wasted time 😄 especially with the newer style injectors that has far more superior spray patterns, atomization is vastly improved Now if it’s a Weber manifold for my vw? Yes I’d like to try to keep it a little rougher perhaps 60-80grit
It’s a Makita forgot the model it’s at the shop haha…my fault probably as I’ve been using the same model for over a decade so it looks and is comfy for me but I see Dave @Headgames uses the same Makita so I’m not alone haha
Hey yes where u from? Cuz depending on location the source is different Mostly on EBay sanding rolls are plenty usually the good ones come from SA (standard abrasives) the brand
@@SRDmotorsportsType R Integra cams GSR Head with dual valve springs is what I’m gonna do people say it’s safe to use the stock springs and valves but I’m not taking chances just because it worked before won’t always pan out especially B20vtec
@@kaybevang536 I agree on that! Valve springs west out they are considered “consumable” as their tension don’t last forever Il always prefer “new” so I def agree
@@SRDmotorsports I had no problem running stock head stock valve springs and retainers with type r cams but might as well get it upgraded so you don’t have to do it when adding better cams
@@kaybevang536 yes so true I mean it’s quite easy just slapping on pro1 after but if the valvetrain isn’t ready? That’s added work so what u doing here, this approach is actually SMART
Whats the most practical engine to build, budget wise? B or K series? I'm looking for an engine to put on my old civic. Not going for race, more on efficiency with a decent street power.
Heyyyy Michael most excellent question!! I apologise for getting back to you late, with an excellent question deserves an excellent answer so il do that now 😏 in all honesty? i would choose and love a Kseries! but with your question and the fact that i know a strong 2.0 Bseries is borderline "too much" for the regular streets lets do this... the usual run of the mill b20vtec like in our series...lets say 1up or ycp pistons (not even forged) Pro2 cams and ITR manifold 235whp is easy...pump gas and thats 117.5hp per liter lets use this "standard" of basis so 117.5hp per liter x2.0 a k24 should then make 282whp on non forged pistons a regular rbc manifold and maybe DC2.2 cams and usual header? but No to reach that its almost race level build and we see equivalent of a b20 set up but k24 comes out as 248-255whp locally... hhmmm? same standard on 1.8liter = 211whp doable same standard on 1.6litsr = 188whp doable din so when you think about it? ive yet tosee an equally efficient K local to us that matches a Bseries 2.0 per hp? tranny alone an ITR B is like 70-75k and a typeR K tranny is atleast 135k we havnt even gone to ecu cost hondata s300 around 35k and Hondata Kpro easy 60-65k but i still love K series but i still will always be honest and upfront :)
@@SRDmotorsports Thank you for the reply, I think from your answer basically I can go on any of the two. Maybe my concern was more on what is actually doable on the chassis of the car. I'm sure B series will fit as I've seen many did it from abroad. But the idea of doing something out of the box is what's going in my head. I want to do it in steps as I think that's the most safe and practical way to do it. I'd maybe go and push with the engine swap first with stock everything to make sure it fits and runs. Maybe consider going AWD in the future. My biggest concern is the axels. I'll probably tap your services in the future specifically for the engine build when things gets started. Right now I'm trying to gather as much information on how the project should be approached, where to source the parts and where to have it built. An AWD K24 would really be something new if it fits an EN4 chassis.
@@michaelfermin1030 oh man a late 70s early 80s chassis is already out of the box in itself! that is one cool project :) my main concern is engine bay space etc etc yep if an AWD is the main thing that pushes such project then il throw an idea in the mix to confuse you more 🤣 people with the same passion does this naturally hahaha EN4 chassis, Bseries based AWD run a D2B adapter speedfactory style to run a crx based d16ay all cammed and reworked on Hondata S300 , run all the bells and whistles the s300 can carry/provide and it should be golden slap an s2k guage too 🤣 this way the "engine bay" look is kinda less outta the ordinary but all 4 tires be beefed up hmmm
Both it’s usually 80grit it just depends on the amount of lube I use it changes the finished texture But it’s always depending on applied pressure on ur hands Some can try finer grit to come close but it won’t be the same it’s always the applied pressure of the hands
Hard to tell kase same lng ang ek na Bseries head anything 96+ na model… Plus it matters less mas laspag saten type R And if ported? Like Endyn ayaw yan kase mas malaki na core shift ng later models kasama na typer so mas sungaw to make it right so it’s not as good Saten lng kase pinapamahal typer eh
it got thinner only due to needed cross section but yep i agree not to edge it right away not many understand and know why leading edge of a planes wing isnt knife edged :) and i can see u know your stuff... excellent Vitaliy!
@@SRDmotorsports leading edge of high speed airplanes are knife edged. It’s just not very practical to make a sharp leading edge on slow flying airplanes and have it fly very well. Knife edge reduces drag, that’s common sense, Don’t need to experiment to know. Rounded edge will cause the air to make a pause or create a stagnant point at where it impacts, this is added drag!
yes sir as u see at the marker 2:00 and i think 8:50 when I was talking about the B20 headgasket that is 84mm and showing the 81 mmb16 headgasket... I didnt get to show cleaning up the chambers
thanks for the question :) Makita GD0600 and the porting bits/carbides i did a video early on th-cam.com/video/-T3p_zjUXlU/w-d-xo.html sanding rolls look all the same so i just identify what grits i use while porting :)
The b16 port is already “almost” too big port volume wise for the basic 84x89 Unlike different brand heads let’s say on a Toyota or Nissan it’s a different story and the port is always related to cam size + type of intake manifold but that’s a separate story
@@jdportwerks6795 on let’s say a d16 head or a crv p75 , that one can take more port volume and will need it for more “rpm” power… Thank you man! your work is actually really really good too!
@@SRDmotorsports I mainly do a lot of Honda and Volkswagen cylinder heads but the Honda heads are definitely easier to work on and get really good results😁
Really depends… factory says no more than 0.020” but I’ve seen people mill up to 0.040” The bigger issue is piston to valve clearance/contact and Ofcourse cam timing changes the more you mill the head/block
a b18 ls maybe but i dont know we dont get the b18a/b here but p3f b20 headgasket is 84mm and the dowels are reversed as in the video that headgasket is 84mm
@@SRDmotorsports its been a while so i could be wrong. I know the heads are 81mm and the blocks are 84mm unless u are like me and have a P8R head which then the head is 84mm as well. I dont remember having to look for a special headgasket so maybe im just talking out of my ass here
@@timm5970 maaaan p8r beyond rare even here... but our local HG is 84mm just like visible in the vid... the weird part of honda is every country has an odd red child situation 🤣 always
@@SRDmotorsports yeah I picked up the p8r for $60 lol. b20, p8r, b16 intake, 70mm tb, bc0022 cams, 4-2-1 header(forget brand its nice), high flow cat 2.5in, 2.5in exhaust
@@timm5970 lol man!!! 60$ ?!? def good find!! bc022 is good ive built one with it never had a chance to dyno cuz pandemic hit 😒 but the crv seems to idle well more cool is the fact that its a crv so i told the owner it might surprise alot of civics 🤣
Err, you just about cleaned the exhausts but didn’t actually port it that much. On a turbo engine you need as much exhaust flow as possible. Edit, sorry no turbo I mixed up two videos.
Yes I agree though especially on turbo engine as much flow exhaust "efficiently" as possible we both know alot think "bigger" is more flow when alot of times when you start loosing airspeed , "boost lag" becomes annoying 🤣 Also on alot of applications the honda pr3 head has very good port volume and valve to throat ratio but on other brands it is a different story so I agree on exhaust flow
I never understood why people grind away at a very expensive piece of metal to match a cheap piece of paper instead of grinding the cheap piece of paper to match the expensive metal
Preach it brother!!! thats why we showed that p30 intake gasket even OEM which is fine for slight misalignments but its why we show it why "gasket match" ?? portmatching is good but id rather not rely on gasket maker's alignment and hope it gives more awareness + its why we often have a bunch of sturdy file folders here i use and cut to make our own intake gasket this way it is actually exactly like the ports on the head
@@timm5970 yep hence i go to bookstores or stationery supplies store 🤣 Actually i believe you can, as even here I know its possible to get em they come in 12" wide rolls... lemme ask a buddy of mine on the "proper" name this way i can pass it on to you and let you scout some ftw
@@timm5970 found one man... but il keep checking "other" makers but this is prolly easy to get in the US (we in asia) so its all good Mr.Gasket #77B its 12" x 12" thats 1/16 thick lemme check with my vw/cal-look friends they might know a diff brand or preference
Here’s how you can check a Good port and a bad port as we compared
th-cam.com/video/fImfCNGOGKM/w-d-xo.html
The information you provide is very interesting and backuped by scientific explanation. I have a SiR with B20/B16 head. I see you love VW Beetle just like me when I was younger. I look forward to meeting you personally and be honored for a short chat. I will try to find how I can get in touch with you and booked an appointment. I give your channel a double thumbs up and a personal admiration.
Oh hey!!! Fellow Veedubber 😎 it’s my dads first car so naturally where I learned to drive a stick shift (and launch it drag style but my dad never found out lol)
NICE work looking good. Explanation of reasons for porting and process was great. Can't wait to see all your engine builds.
Like always great guidance on "how to". I also like two thumbs up and "yeah yeah ja". :) Thumb up and keep up.
I just bought a head just like this one. I will try to do the same. This one was flawless.
Yes sir check a outro video about this the TypeR how to , it shows more but less words
I will make a new version Video of that soon
I have seen its good. I having trouble taking the valves out of the head. When I press the springs the valves opens also.
@@picole321 oh wait its 11:54pm here tommorow i can show you a photo but on my page
but basically u can just fold "jornal" because its soft so what u to is crumple them like trash 🤣 then fold enough amount to sort of hold the valves closed when you put the head chamber down on ur workbench this saves the valves from risk of bending when u press them and open and hit the desk
Thanks amigo.👍
@@picole321 just estimate if u fold too little jornal? then valve will still open a little bit? if you fold muito grande? the head will not sit flat on the desk 🤣
This is a very good instructional video. Makes me confident I can do this Great video keep up the good work. Subscribed
Thanks Jesse! and yes dont forget to have fun!
Oh man I just learn something new thanks once again ur the best
Oh FTw man!!! Thanks for checking it out!
Very helpful video. I’m curious how does the fuel atomize with 120 grit surface? If the port is sanded at 220 grit. Is that when it’s too smooth. Where is the balance point?
I’m not sure with your question sir, but our finish is was always 120grit
I feel anything smoother = is no difference so “why” spend more time as if it’s “no difference” it’s the same as wasted time 😄
especially with the newer style injectors that has far more superior spray patterns, atomization is vastly improved
Now if it’s a Weber manifold for my vw? Yes I’d like to try to keep it a little rougher perhaps 60-80grit
Sir matanong ko lang po saan po makakabili ng 80 grit and 120 grit na gamit mo... Sana ma notice po.. great video sana mameet po kita someday sa cis
the usual tool shops or hardwares Meron same sha sa belt sander I just cut it sometimes
Great video thank you for your work and knowledge
Thank you for checking it out too :) what helps me is you guys checking it out so def appreciate that man!
What brand of dremel are you using? Because of your videos it really makes me wanna port my heads lol
It’s a Makita forgot the model it’s at the shop haha…my fault probably as I’ve been using the same model for over a decade so it looks and is comfy for me but I see Dave @Headgames uses the same Makita so I’m not alone haha
Hey brother nice video! Have a link to those bits you used for the porting job?
Hey yes where u from? Cuz depending on location the source is different
Mostly on EBay sanding rolls are plenty usually the good ones come from SA (standard abrasives) the brand
This will come in handy with a B20 stock bare block with a fully built and maintained Vtec head
Oh yes definitely… like a “2liter” TypeR 😎
@@SRDmotorsportsType R Integra cams GSR Head with dual valve springs is what I’m gonna do people say it’s safe to use the stock springs and valves but I’m not taking chances just because it worked before won’t always pan out especially B20vtec
@@kaybevang536 I agree on that! Valve springs west out they are considered “consumable” as their tension don’t last forever
Il always prefer “new” so I def agree
@@SRDmotorsports I had no problem running stock head stock valve springs and retainers with type r cams but might as well get it upgraded so you don’t have to do it when adding better cams
@@kaybevang536 yes so true I mean it’s quite easy just slapping on pro1 after but if the valvetrain isn’t ready? That’s added work so what u doing here, this approach is actually SMART
Whats the most practical engine to build, budget wise? B or K series? I'm looking for an engine to put on my old civic. Not going for race, more on efficiency with a decent street power.
Heyyyy Michael most excellent question!! I apologise for getting back to you late, with an excellent question deserves an excellent answer so il do that now 😏
in all honesty? i would choose and love a Kseries! but with your question and the fact that i know a strong 2.0 Bseries is borderline "too much" for the regular streets lets do this...
the usual run of the mill b20vtec like in our series...lets say 1up or ycp pistons (not even forged) Pro2 cams and ITR manifold
235whp is easy...pump gas and thats
117.5hp per liter lets use this "standard" of basis so 117.5hp per liter x2.0
a k24 should then make 282whp on non forged pistons a regular rbc manifold and maybe DC2.2 cams and usual header? but No to reach that its almost race level build and we see equivalent of a b20 set up but k24 comes out as 248-255whp locally... hhmmm?
same standard on 1.8liter = 211whp doable
same standard on 1.6litsr = 188whp doable din
so when you think about it? ive yet tosee an equally efficient K local to us that matches a Bseries 2.0 per hp?
tranny alone an ITR B is like 70-75k and a
typeR K tranny is atleast 135k
we havnt even gone to ecu cost hondata s300 around 35k and Hondata Kpro easy 60-65k
but i still love K series but i still will always be honest and upfront :)
@@SRDmotorsports Thank you for the reply, I think from your answer basically I can go on any of the two. Maybe my concern was more on what is actually doable on the chassis of the car. I'm sure B series will fit as I've seen many did it from abroad. But the idea of doing something out of the box is what's going in my head. I want to do it in steps as I think that's the most safe and practical way to do it.
I'd maybe go and push with the engine swap first with stock everything to make sure it fits and runs. Maybe consider going AWD in the future. My biggest concern is the axels.
I'll probably tap your services in the future specifically for the engine build when things gets started. Right now I'm trying to gather as much information on how the project should be approached, where to source the parts and where to have it built. An AWD K24 would really be something new if it fits an EN4 chassis.
@@michaelfermin1030 oh man a late 70s early 80s chassis is already out of the box in itself! that is one cool project :)
my main concern is engine bay space etc etc yep if an AWD is the main thing that pushes such project then il throw an idea in the mix to confuse you more 🤣 people with the same passion does this naturally hahaha
EN4 chassis, Bseries based AWD run a D2B adapter speedfactory style to run a crx based d16ay all cammed and reworked on Hondata S300 , run all the bells and whistles the s300 can carry/provide and it should be golden
slap an s2k guage too 🤣
this way the "engine bay" look is kinda less outta the ordinary but all 4 tires be beefed up hmmm
Sorry for exhaust port you use 80grit . What grit do you use for the intake port ?
Both it’s usually 80grit it just depends on the amount of lube I use it changes the finished texture
But it’s always depending on applied pressure on ur hands
Some can try finer grit to come close but it won’t be the same it’s always the applied pressure of the hands
What grit do you use for the combustion camber without taking the valves off ( top part)
120 grit but it’s hard to clean up the crevices with valves in
The current or part 2 of the Kseries built I talked about the chamber details
Hi sir paano po ma identify ang head ng b18c it type r po siya kahit po aftermarket laman loob nya
Hard to tell kase same lng ang ek na Bseries head anything 96+ na model…
Plus it matters less mas laspag saten type R
And if ported? Like Endyn ayaw yan kase mas malaki na core shift ng later models kasama na typer so mas sungaw to make it right so it’s not as good
Saten lng kase pinapamahal typer eh
Amazing works lodi
thanks boss... :) like you do, we always try to share but also to show what we can do and achieve for future customers :)
galing!!!
thaaaanks MIKEstoration TV :) you keep up the passion too!
@@SRDmotorsports sana poh di ka magsawa sumahot sa mga tanong ko idol 😊😊😊😂😂😂
Say no to knife edging when porting
yep we never do and i agree
it got thinner only due to needed cross section but yep i agree not to edge it right away
not many understand and know why leading edge of a planes wing isnt knife edged :)
and i can see u know your stuff... excellent Vitaliy!
@@SRDmotorsports leading edge of high speed airplanes are knife edged. It’s just not very practical to make a sharp leading edge on slow flying airplanes and have it fly very well. Knife edge reduces drag, that’s common sense, Don’t need to experiment to know. Rounded edge will cause the air to make a pause or create a stagnant point at where it impacts, this is added drag!
@@StrikerFin yep!! excellent points indeed :)
port matching i/e po8 head with 20 camlobes , was it good for daily?
improving efficiency is always good (some locals would say otherwise cuz it’s stock)
so they don’t think improving fuel efficiency is worth it?
@@SRDmotorsports fuel efficiency + gain more power, right.
improving engine efficiency = more power and fuel efficiency
Did u open up the head chamber to 84mm also?
Ty
yes sir as u see at the marker 2:00 and i think
8:50 when I was talking about the B20 headgasket that is 84mm and showing the 81 mmb16 headgasket... I didnt get to show cleaning up the chambers
@@SRDmotorsports
Unshrouding baby!
Hehe
Can i know what kind of porting tools you are using?
thanks for the question :)
Makita GD0600
and the porting bits/carbides i did a video early on
th-cam.com/video/-T3p_zjUXlU/w-d-xo.html
sanding rolls look all the same so i just identify what grits i use while porting :)
How is this even beneficial if you aren’t cutting anything? I can’t even say this will gain a net of 10cfm? Please explain?
The b16 port is already “almost” too big port volume wise for the basic 84x89
Unlike different brand heads let’s say on a Toyota or Nissan it’s a different story
and the port is always related to cam size + type of intake manifold but that’s a separate story
@@SRDmotorsports looks really nice
@@jdportwerks6795 on let’s say a d16 head or a crv p75 , that one can take more port volume and will need it for more “rpm” power…
Thank you man!
your work is actually really really good too!
@@SRDmotorsports I mainly do a lot of Honda and Volkswagen cylinder heads but the Honda heads are definitely easier to work on and get really good results😁
@@jdportwerks6795 so true on that… I can imagine the vw is a lot harder because it’s already good with torque so more is harder except go turbo lol
bro how much can milling my pr3 head feom cero to the limit?
Really depends… factory says no more than 0.020” but I’ve seen people mill up to 0.040”
The bigger issue is piston to valve clearance/contact and Ofcourse cam timing changes the more you mill the head/block
@@SRDmotorsports thanks!!!
enjoy your project man 😎
Sir gud day po ask ko lng po kung fit ang con rod at piston ng d15 sa ph12 ty po 😊
good day and thanks for the comment.... different bearing diameter crank ng ph12 so wont fit sa ph12 and piston height is different so baka lubog pa
Pag po kaya crank ng d15 din ang gagamitin sa block ng ph12 fit na kaya?
Ty po
@@MrDelete001 different main bearing and rod bearing diameter it wont work sir
Ok po sir big ty
@@MrDelete001 no prob sir just always ask and we will try to give good answers or advice
but a b20 headgasket is 81mm as well......
a b18 ls maybe but i dont know we dont get the b18a/b here but p3f b20 headgasket is 84mm and the dowels are reversed as in the video that headgasket is 84mm
@@SRDmotorsports its been a while so i could be wrong. I know the heads are 81mm and the blocks are 84mm unless u are like me and have a P8R head which then the head is 84mm as well. I dont remember having to look for a special headgasket so maybe im just talking out of my ass here
@@timm5970 maaaan p8r beyond rare even here... but our local HG is 84mm just like visible in the vid... the weird part of honda is every country has an odd red child situation 🤣 always
@@SRDmotorsports yeah I picked up the p8r for $60 lol. b20, p8r, b16 intake, 70mm tb, bc0022 cams, 4-2-1 header(forget brand its nice), high flow cat 2.5in, 2.5in exhaust
@@timm5970 lol man!!! 60$ ?!? def good find!! bc022 is good ive built one with it never had a chance to dyno cuz pandemic hit 😒 but the crv seems to idle well
more cool is the fact that its a crv so i told the owner it might surprise alot of civics 🤣
Err, you just about cleaned the exhausts but didn’t actually port it that much. On a turbo engine you need as much exhaust flow as possible.
Edit, sorry no turbo I mixed up two videos.
Yes I agree though especially on turbo engine as much flow exhaust "efficiently" as possible
we both know alot think "bigger" is more flow when alot of times when you start loosing airspeed , "boost lag" becomes annoying 🤣
Also on alot of applications the honda pr3 head has very good port volume and valve to throat ratio but on other brands it is a different story so I agree on exhaust flow
I never understood why people grind away at a very expensive piece of metal to match a cheap piece of paper instead of grinding the cheap piece of paper to match the expensive metal
Preach it brother!!! thats why we showed that p30 intake gasket even OEM which is fine for slight misalignments but its why we show it
why "gasket match" ?? portmatching is good but id rather not rely on gasket maker's alignment and hope it gives more awareness
+ its why we often have a bunch of sturdy file folders here i use and cut to make our own intake gasket this way it is actually exactly like the ports on the head
@@SRDmotorsports i should do that as well. Wonder if u can buy the material they use for intake manifold spacers in sheets
@@timm5970 yep hence i go to bookstores or stationery supplies store 🤣
Actually i believe you can, as even here I know its possible to get em they come in 12" wide rolls... lemme ask a buddy of mine on the "proper" name this way i can pass it on to you and let you scout some ftw
@@timm5970 found one man... but il keep checking "other" makers but this is prolly easy to get in the US (we in asia) so its all good
Mr.Gasket #77B its 12" x 12" thats 1/16 thick
lemme check with my vw/cal-look friends they might know a diff brand or preference
@@SRDmotorsports they sell that mr gasket stuff on summit racing so its ez to get here in the US.