I have just done all 4 on a similar engine and used the exact method shown here, Ford couldnt/wouldnt tell me the torque settings so I had to use a forum for it, unfortunately the figure they gave was wrong so all the clamps broke, I had to do them again, this time I got the correct figures (7Nm+55 degrees) and all is good up to now,, its amazing how many people dont grind the seats and wonder why the new seals leak, this is an excellent tutorial!
Good stuff - really glad it was useful! Don’t forget to check out the explanation video linked in the description so you get a real good understanding of exactly how to use the tools… Good luck, and thanks for watching!
how essential is that tubing around the main fuel line? Mine broke off to reveel the inner line/hose. I wasnt sure whether it was the car deposits but I can see it in your video.
Hi! Apologies for the delay… I’m not 100% which bit you mean, but generally things like that are specified to amend an issue identified in testing… recommendation is to keep it to factory spec including insulation/shielding
If used correctly, there is no possibility of debris getting in to the cylinder; The little top hat things take care of business - that and the grease on the reamer… never turn over with debris in the sleeves - the pistons suck as well as blow… you are more likely to contaminate the cylinders that way and scratch up your liners! There are a lot of vids showing how to use these tools wrong - follow the link in the description to a walk through of the full correct process!
First guess would be fuel starvation. Check that the fuel lines are very well sealed and that the fuel return lines are connected. After that, check the electrical connection is firmly clicked in place - it can’t be much else!
I had an injector leak on my 2011 Kuga that melted the cover like this video. Car was running fine until i had someone sort the leak. Now when you get up to speed it starts to judder violently. I have had it at a local Ford dealer for weeks now but they are saying its an injector loom problem which are no longer available. I even had a local Auto mechanic come to look but he didn't seem very interested. Any ideas of my next move? We love the car and dont want to scrap it as its still got miles in it.
Great question… it’s a weird symptom - my first thought was fuel starvation but then I read your comment again and you say it judders when up to speed… is it possible that the 2 things are not connected? My first thought with any kind of judder is that one of the wheels has lost a lead weight and is imbalanced - something that might not be noticeable at slower speeds, but very troubling at motorway speeds for instance! On the injectors, it just sounds like they are blocked to be honest - worth getting a second opinion on them from an independent garage. I suspect that the ford dealer just doesn’t want to do the job, and that their approach to gummed up connectors is to rip out the old one and replace rather than get a can of carb cleaner as I did in this video… the ones you have are probably fine - just dirty and inconvenient for the dealership mechanic who will be very happy to spend your money in order to make their life easier!!!injectors rarely go wrong so I don’t think loading the parts cannon is the solution… have you tried an injector cleaning fuel additive? If they are gunked up they might not be diffusing the fuel properly which could lead to some irregular running - usually more noticeable on tickover though. There are companies that specialise in injector cleaning too - definitely get a second opinion! (And get your wheel balance checked… that is a cheap first step!)
Hi witch injector puller did you use to get the injector out as mine are blown I need to replace the seals but I don't no witch puller to get I have a Citroen C5 with the same injectors that are in this video
Hi Steven - I didn’t need a puller as the injector had popped out on its own and was only being held down by the fuel line. I do have a full set of pullers with a slide hammer - my advice to you is speak to your local auto factors… you may find that you can hire the one you need rather than buying! Thanks for watching!
BigTallTim at 2230 you talk about the electrical connections and make sure the side bits are sitting correctly so they snap back onto the injector....if there not correct will this make a bad electrical conection on the contacts between injector and loom or is it just to stop it falling off?
Great question and yes - to stop them falling off!… to explain: if they work loose the fuel delivery to that cylinder is cut off (remember that it is the injector that allows the fuel to squirt in from your high pressure diesel line… no power, no fuel, and you are running on 3 cylinders. A clip is built in so as to be sure that this doesn’t happen!
Those injector clamps are made of the weakest metal I've ever encountered. I made new ones from 10mm steel bar. The injector seals can be removed using a thread tap too.
They are! I was genuinely surprised by how light the torque settings were… Great tip on the tap also by the way - those slide hammers are the business, but pretty expensive!
I have just done all 4 on a similar engine and used the exact method shown here, Ford couldnt/wouldnt tell me the torque settings so I had to use a forum for it, unfortunately the figure they gave was wrong so all the clamps broke, I had to do them again, this time I got the correct figures (7Nm+55 degrees) and all is good up to now,, its amazing how many people dont grind the seats and wonder why the new seals leak, this is an excellent tutorial!
Many thanks - and yes… those torque settings are not easy to come by, and surprisingly light! Glad you got sorted and thanks for watching!
Nice thorough repair Tim with plenty of great guidance and pace .glad the rhread was intact 😉
Thanks Gordy - much appreciated! And yes… quite a relief that the helicoil vid is going to have to wait! 😂
Excellent video, thanks
Many thanks - and thank you for watching!
Awersome video, explained very well. I’m looking to tackle all four in the next few days. I’ll certainly be looking to use as a guide. 💪
Good stuff - really glad it was useful! Don’t forget to check out the explanation video linked in the description so you get a real good understanding of exactly how to use the tools… Good luck, and thanks for watching!
Very good presentation. Found it really helpful thanks
Thanks for the feedback - much appreciated! Really glad it was handy, and thank you for watching!
how essential is that tubing around the main fuel line? Mine broke off to reveel the inner line/hose. I wasnt sure whether it was the car deposits but I can see it in your video.
Hi! Apologies for the delay… I’m not 100% which bit you mean, but generally things like that are specified to amend an issue identified in testing… recommendation is to keep it to factory spec including insulation/shielding
Great vid mate, what reamer did you use?
Cheers - I believe it was a 17/17… most injectors are similar sized ends - what is critical is the profile of the reamer
Did you have to turn the engine over to clear any debris from the cylinder? or did you get away with it?
If used correctly, there is no possibility of debris getting in to the cylinder; The little top hat things take care of business - that and the grease on the reamer… never turn over with debris in the sleeves - the pistons suck as well as blow… you are more likely to contaminate the cylinders that way and scratch up your liners! There are a lot of vids showing how to use these tools wrong - follow the link in the description to a walk through of the full correct process!
Nice video ❤
Cheers - much appreciated, and thanks for watching!
I replaced the clamp but now it won't start....any help?
First guess would be fuel starvation. Check that the fuel lines are very well sealed and that the fuel return lines are connected. After that, check the electrical connection is firmly clicked in place - it can’t be much else!
I had an injector leak on my 2011 Kuga that melted the cover like this video. Car was running fine until i had someone sort the leak. Now when you get up to speed it starts to judder violently. I have had it at a local Ford dealer for weeks now but they are saying its an injector loom problem which are no longer available. I even had a local Auto mechanic come to look but he didn't seem very interested. Any ideas of my next move? We love the car and dont want to scrap it as its still got miles in it.
I had the injectors tested as well and they all past but NO.4 only just. so do you think it might be worth changing that injector?
Great question… it’s a weird symptom - my first thought was fuel starvation but then I read your comment again and you say it judders when up to speed… is it possible that the 2 things are not connected? My first thought with any kind of judder is that one of the wheels has lost a lead weight and is imbalanced - something that might not be noticeable at slower speeds, but very troubling at motorway speeds for instance! On the injectors, it just sounds like they are blocked to be honest - worth getting a second opinion on them from an independent garage. I suspect that the ford dealer just doesn’t want to do the job, and that their approach to gummed up connectors is to rip out the old one and replace rather than get a can of carb cleaner as I did in this video… the ones you have are probably fine - just dirty and inconvenient for the dealership mechanic who will be very happy to spend your money in order to make their life easier!!!injectors rarely go wrong so I don’t think loading the parts cannon is the solution… have you tried an injector cleaning fuel additive? If they are gunked up they might not be diffusing the fuel properly which could lead to some irregular running - usually more noticeable on tickover though. There are companies that specialise in injector cleaning too - definitely get a second opinion! (And get your wheel balance checked… that is a cheap first step!)
Hi witch injector puller did you use to get the injector out as mine are blown I need to replace the seals but I don't no witch puller to get I have a Citroen C5 with the same injectors that are in this video
Hi Steven - I didn’t need a puller as the injector had popped out on its own and was only being held down by the fuel line. I do have a full set of pullers with a slide hammer - my advice to you is speak to your local auto factors… you may find that you can hire the one you need rather than buying! Thanks for watching!
BigTallTim at 2230 you talk about the electrical connections and make sure the side bits are sitting correctly so they snap back onto the injector....if there not correct will this make a bad electrical conection on the contacts between injector and loom or is it just to stop it falling off?
Great question and yes - to stop them falling off!… to explain: if they work loose the fuel delivery to that cylinder is cut off (remember that it is the injector that allows the fuel to squirt in from your high pressure diesel line… no power, no fuel, and you are running on 3 cylinders. A clip is built in so as to be sure that this doesn’t happen!
Nice 👍
Cheers - and thank you for watching!
Those injector clamps are made of the weakest metal I've ever encountered.
I made new ones from 10mm steel bar.
The injector seals can be removed using a thread tap too.
They are! I was genuinely surprised by how light the torque settings were… Great tip on the tap also by the way - those slide hammers are the business, but pretty expensive!