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Great question - so… yes, this will be the same with the tdi. The esp light probably indicates a bad abs sensor (by far the most likely cause) and will stop calibration from working. the lack of calibration in turn will light up the steering wheel warning light without any noticeable difference in steering response. You need to fix the esp issue, then do this procedure to clear both warning lights. Thanks for watching!

Hi - this has been a common question. It is a solvent - it is distilled turpentine, and refined linseed oil used by artists to thin oil paint. I do not know of a substitute that will be safe on plastic and importantly, that will dry - it is very important that this dries, or road dust will stick to your bumper which would be a big mess. Just go to an art store and they should be able to sort you out no bother

yep - I had the same in my 04 S60... just a part of the stereo system - should be held in place with 3 pegs as I recall... watch out - they can get pretty brittle over time!

You are very welcome - thanks for watching!

Cheers - and yes… the only time you need to touch the door card for a window related issue is to change the motor if it has failed. Thanks for watching!

You are very welcome - thanks for watching!

Thank you - and you are very welcome… I’m really glad it was useful!

You are very welcome - it’s a tricky little sucker to find that part!

You are very welcome - thanks for watching! It was the 163 (2.4 D5)

You will need to fix the abs issue - most likely a sensor has failed… as with many of these calibrations, they only work if the system is in a good state of health

My pleasure and many thanks! Yes… low voltage can cause all sorts of electrical gremlins - great to hear you got sorted, and thanks for watching!

First guess would be fuel starvation. Check that the fuel lines are very well sealed and that the fuel return lines are connected. After that, check the electrical connection is firmly clicked in place - it can’t be much else!

Hi - not in so far as I am aware… as it is a basic safety feature, I can’t think of any standard equipment that would achieve that result; a tuning shop may be able to assist, but it is a fairly bad idea on safety grounds so they may not want to assist - steering and brakes are two things that you don’t want to take any chances with!

Great question, and in my case no. The crazy temperature was reported on the data stream in my diagnostic computer; the dash showed approximately the correct temperature.

I believe that the sensor clip can be accessed in the xc90 in the same way as the v70 - check this out: th-cam.com/video/xzyTvZTU9_Y/w-d-xo.htmlsi=3paJENEZHVUOXtT8 You definitely do not need to drop the fuel tank!

You are very welcome - let us know how it goes!

They really are - hang on to that thing… they are coming back in popularity so won’t lose value, and they really do sound superb - very much the sound of the 90s!!

All cars light the dashboard warning lights for a short time when you turn the ignition on - to let you know that they work! If you keep the ignition on, they don’t go out - until the engine turns on… I think your battery/starting issue was not connected to this light in your dash - I’m not an expert on Suzuki’s but what I will say, is that all makes and models of cars are different and you can’t really compare them… the age is important too - bottom line, issues in a elderly VW will be very different to a fairly young Suzi!

Unfortunately I no longer have access to that vehicle so can’t check with a mutimeter, but yes I believe so

This is where you need to use the pliers and spanner to separate the two halves of the connector just in front of the spreader - 36:01 you really have to force it!

Muchas gracias!

Check for other trouble codes - it is most likely that you have an abs issue, or the fluid level is low… the yellow light does more than just lost callibration

Ok… you’ve got me intrigued! Weird set of symptoms, so I usually open with looking for electrical gremlins… maybe not condensation from cold, but have you driven through any water recently?

It is the right question! It was Sunday, and I didn’t have any in stock - replaced with new ones off camera

You are very welcome - an easy job once you’ve seen it done… just take your time, and let us know how it goes!

You are very welcome - an easy job once you’ve seen it done… just take your time, and let us know how it goes!

@@bigtalltim hi Tim I striped the brakes down today and loosened the adjuster I have also ordered some new shoes hopefully this will fix the hand brake

@damstv8717 if the cable is moving freely in the plastic sleeve, it really is that simple!… just remember to use it, or it will be just the same in a couple of years…

Great question… ok - 2 things. You say your battery is fine, but if it has a cell that is just about ok for now, but on the way out, the load under starting may be enough to tip the balance. Get it professionally tested - that’s the obvious one. On the error code, that relates to steering motor current. The rack itself rarely goes wrong on these cars, so it is probably the harness or “loom” - maybe a bad connector, that is further affected by morning condensation… I’d recommend going through the connectors one by one with some contact cleaner… if I was a betting man, I’d put my cash on it being the battery though

@@bigtalltim Thanks so much for your reply. I did get the battery tested, they said it was ok. I checked what I could re the power assist plug and wires coming in and out of them. I spoke to two mechanics, both of them said it was likely the steering rack, although as you said, these racks seldomly fail. My Mk5 has only done 142,000 k's. I'll ask the mechanics to test connectors and loom before doing the rack and hope that this is the issue. Thanks again for getting back to me. Much appreciated. PS:, The red wheel warning light came on two weeks ago. It was taken to a service centre. They said they couldn't find anything wrong with it. They could see the error code in the log, but the problem had seemingly fixed itself. I drove the car for another one and a half weeks with no issues whatsoever. That would suggest that, as you say, it's not the steering rack, and more likely to be electrical? Aside from that and what you have mentioned, is there anything you think I need to say to the mechanic? Thanks again, I just subscribed!

@joshjoshspangler Hi - no worries! A side question: have you driven through any deep water? (Again, this would point towards electrical if so…) Regarding talking to a mechanic about it, just keep to the known issues and hard facts and don’t be offended if the mechanic takes it with a pinch of salt! it is always easier to run with the symptoms and facts and methodically work through the troubleshooting list double checking everything that has been “ruled out” by someone else anyway. That said… The racks *are* pretty much bullet proof, and the job is super easy so if they come in with a quote for more than a couple of hours, they either don’t know VWs or they are being overly cautious - neither of which would fill me with confidence! Tell them you’d prefer a reconditioned rack to save the cost of a brand new unit too - they so rarely go wrong that it’s a pretty safe bet. Good luck!

@@bigtalltim Hello Thank you again! No, I haven't driven through any water and the car is parked in a garage every night so morning condensation is not a problem. Plugs/connectors look clean and dry. Battery has a built in "Good, not so good and replace" gauge which is in the green. Having said that I've put the trickle charger on it just to completely rule out the battery as the problem. Fuse box and connections are corrosion free, dry and tight. I'm going to have to flat bed it into a mechanic so I'll let you know what they find. Thank you so much for your advice and getting back to me. Amazing. :-)

@joshjoshspangler my pleasure! By the way - the thing with batteries is that one cell of the bank of cells that make up the battery (there is usually 6 each of which produces 2.1v at full charge) can be on its way out, but still have enough juice to report that the battery is healthy (over 12v)… the issues come when that same battery is under really heavy load - like when it is turning the starter motor; at that point the voltage can drop to a level that causes electrical gremlins - I’d be really interested to know what they find!

That is the right question! I guess for most applications it wouldn’t matter… but with amplification in the frame, we discover a problem that wasn’t considered by the manufacturer

Hi - red lights are very different… a lot more serious - something has failed. Definitely get that checked - if I had to guess, possibly a fluid leak caused by the job a week ago?

@@bigtalltim I don’t know exactly. Also, just few days before it cracks, we had some very bad weather and the car went a little through water. It were some floods but not so big. Anyway, after that the red light for the steering system came on and in just 30 minutes the flywheel cracked also. So Idk if all these events are related. Anyway, we replaced the steering system, the clutch with the flywheel, we went into a small vacation whete we drove almost 1500 km. Now, it is back the red light for the steering system and I really don t know why.

I would take it back to the place that fixed the clutch and flywheel… many years ago I had a Sharan, and I seem to recall that the hydraulic fluid for the power steering also does the clutch… could well be related

Great question… as likely as not, your fluid level is low - check the dip stick built into the reservoir lid

Sloth is the mother of invention - truth be told, I couldn’t be bothered to take the wheels off to push them through from the back! 😇

Cheers! I couldn’t find anything else out there that covered the centre console and cable bit, so figured it was worth taking the time; my guess is that most folks doing this job are against the clock for an annual inspection so it never makes the cut! Thanks for watching!

You are very welcome - I didn’t really get it the first time I wired one of these from a diagram either, and I ended up drawing it on paper to work it out - curiosity got the better of me! Really glad it was useful, and thanks for watching!

Good to hear - and thanks for watching!

Good stuff - always great to hear that the vids are useful! Thanks for watching!

Cheers - a nice easy job if you take your time! Thanks for watching

Great question and a definite yes! If any of the sensors are lying to the ECU about the speed it can invalidate the procedure

No worries - thanks for watching!

Yep - could well be it! There are a few other things that could cause it, but a drop in voltage is probably the most common

I had the injectors tested as well and they all past but NO.4 only just. so do you think it might be worth changing that injector?

Great question… it’s a weird symptom - my first thought was fuel starvation but then I read your comment again and you say it judders when up to speed… is it possible that the 2 things are not connected? My first thought with any kind of judder is that one of the wheels has lost a lead weight and is imbalanced - something that might not be noticeable at slower speeds, but very troubling at motorway speeds for instance! On the injectors, it just sounds like they are blocked to be honest - worth getting a second opinion on them from an independent garage. I suspect that the ford dealer just doesn’t want to do the job, and that their approach to gummed up connectors is to rip out the old one and replace rather than get a can of carb cleaner as I did in this video… the ones you have are probably fine - just dirty and inconvenient for the dealership mechanic who will be very happy to spend your money in order to make their life easier!!!injectors rarely go wrong so I don’t think loading the parts cannon is the solution… have you tried an injector cleaning fuel additive? If they are gunked up they might not be diffusing the fuel properly which could lead to some irregular running - usually more noticeable on tickover though. There are companies that specialise in injector cleaning too - definitely get a second opinion! (And get your wheel balance checked… that is a cheap first step!)

Hi Ted - it has been a while, but no… there is not a gasket as such; I think you are supposed to give it a smear of exhaust assembley paste on refitting - the exhaust equivalent of a liquid gasket

@@bigtalltim Thanks so much for getting back on this, now I know that I’ll get some liquid gasket. Kind Regards. Ted

@tedstewart114 no worries - liquid gasket won’t handle the heat… they are mostly silicone based. It needs to be exhaust assembley paste - easy to find in any good motor factor

@@bigtalltim Ok, ill go for exhaust liquid gasket, Thanks Ted

Hi! I like to keep things on the channel so that it can help other people as well and don’t use other socials etc… what’s the issue - I should at least be able to recommend a starting point for your investigation!

@@bigtalltim I have actually two issues at the moment one of them is related with my a/c the clutch engages and you could heart when it clicks and then no air coming out from the vents and that happens out of the no where and sometimes works just fine still can’t find what the problem might be/ the other problem that just happened it’s the ABS/anti-skid service required like I said I own a Volvo xc90 2014.

@israelmonroy9125 ok… do you have any diagnostic trouble codes? There are so many electronic things that can go wrong it is nearly impossible to know without interrogating the ECU… on the air flow, do you ever have good air flow, or is it always low? With that, the cabin air filter is my best guess - they get blocked over time and that actively prevents air from flowing through the vents… if it is an issue that only happens when the ac is on auto, that would suggest one of the temperature sensors but a code reader would spell it out

@@bigtalltim carry my suv to the mechanic he said the abs and skid have to do something with the abs module pump and with the a/c the blower motor

Hmm… ok - a question: does the skid message come and go? Sometime it shows up, other times not? My first suspect there is the yaw sensor under the right hand front seat, but if your mechanic has found an error code it may be something else… I note that he went straight for one of the most expensive parts in the system though which always raises an eyebrow for me! Again, the fan is expensive and difficult to replace, but the pollen filter (cabin air filter) in these is known for getting blocked and will reduce the air flow to a whisper. If the fan runs at all, it probably isn’t that! I need to change my cabin air filter for similar reasons so will do a vid on that shortly… in the meantime, it is worth investing in a code reader for your car - the engine control unit will remember exactly what it was that went wrong and spell out what the issue is - you don’t need a full computer to read the codes!

You're welcome! 😊 and thank you for watching!

Tis a lovely hunk of wood! I just scraped away all the bits that weren’t a lap steel 🤷‍♂️

😂 true story!

Thanks for the feedback - much appreciated! Really glad it was handy, and thank you for watching!

Same to you Tom!